I can't believe how excited I am seeing that James Condon just put up a new video. Love it! Thanks. James, I am 82 years old and am going through a difficult time in my life. Your videos have helped me bridge this time and distract me from negative thoughts. I have watched over 100 and have only made a couple of comments because so many other clearly capable viewers have said so many good and useful things. Ironically, too, I live in Germany where we virtually never have loss of electricity or blackouts due to our modern and advanced infrastructure (all cables underground). I don't know anyone with a generator aside from a few folks with RVs. Nonetheless, I watch your videos, as I am sure many others due, as a source of peace and calm. Thank you kindly for all of the efforts you make to share your expertise and experience in this therapeutic manner.
@BruceBoschek Stay positive! I was in bad shape 3 years ago (MDS) but thankfully, a countryman of yours was a match for me and provided the stem cells I desperately needed. I'm nearly back to normal now. Miracles happen!!!
Absolutely! James voice and manner lend much to his efforts in these videos. I, too, enjoy the videos because they are done in such a way as to keep my attention... It's useful information presented like a good story. Just as enjoyable as a favorite non fiction TV show. I used to do a lot of repair work and wish I had a shop again. I would love to go back to work. Great videos for keeping up my motivation!
Protip James: Anytime you get a bad coil like that and have to change it, make it a default to also replace the plug. A bad plug can destroy a coil - this advice is also valid for cars especially most modern ones with separate coils for each cylinder. Change out a bad coil, replace the plug at the same time. Can't hurt and saves revisiting a bad coil again which I have seen happen due to a bad plug with really low resistance due to being faulty. Cheers 🙂
James, great videos. My older brother is 81 now. He is one of the only small engine mechanics in our small community. He got is his start as a large aircraft mechanic in the Air Force in the 60's. If and when he closes up shop, he will be missed.
Another great analysis of a non running machine w a LOT of pathology. Step by step and extremely thorough. As a trained ear physician and surgeon, I also have come to appreciate the IMPORTANCE of being able to hear and "analyze" the sounds of the engine. Without good hearing the mechanic would be at a substantial DISadvantage. And, there is SO much information provided by the sounds of the running engine. Many thanks!!
My sister in law is an ENT that specializes in ears also. Cochlear's and baha's seem to be her groove. Their father was also an ENT. My wife is the black sheep. She's a dermatologist. :)
I've been watching your videos for a couple of years now and they are the most professionally, well articulated repair videos out there! No need for me to take Dramamine to be able to watch your videos, like so many of the other channels that use the head-bob-cam!! Thank you for your efforts and I look forward to your next video!
when I was younger I had a job with a general maintenance guy who gave the same sense of reassurance. no matter what the issue was he was calm, and always had another plan if that didn't work. As long as I knew he was there, or at the other end of the phone, we were all fearless and would attack every job with confidence. After he retired we all fell to pieces for an embarrassingly long time. We were afraid to start anything out of the norm without our safety blanket.
Nice to see you work it out logically. Being able to not enter "wrench throwing mode" is a good thing. We also learned why the first carb was missing the choke plate.
Ditto on all the comments thus far. I'm 87 and in the same boat as BruceBoschek from Germany. (wish I could connect with him - if I knew how?) I love your videos. I used to teach "Small Gas Engines" in a Middle School. Best students that I ever had - and most fun/satisfying (if I had known then what I learned now from you!)
Wish I had you as a teacher. I did not learn about small engines until later in life. I was missing out. If you reply on Bruce’s comment he might see it and respond.
James - you found those valves at almost zero clearance! I was recently working on a John Deere 135 Automatic lawn tractor with 330 hours on the meter. Among other issues it had a slow/difficult time turning over to start. When I had the valve covers off to replace gaskets (bolts under-torqued causing leaking onto exhaust and resultant smoking) I checked the valve clearances. I found the Rights at .019 and the Lefts at .017 & .025 (instead of the spec .004-.006 for both)! I guess you just never know what you're going to find! In the end the FaceBook group experts suggested that it was bolt stretch over time, although I'm not fully convinced that's the correct reason. Pretty sure, though, that nobody had done the 200 hour check. Owner drove home with a smile on his face after the tractor started immediately. :)
I work at an equipment hire company, and you can guess the damage done to some of the returned equipment. I love working to repair these broken machines. Your videos have helped so much. Thanks.
What a pleasure it is to watch someone who love what they do for a living it rubs off on all of us. I can’t thank you enough we are blessed by your videos 👍🏼
Like you often say...."this engine has earned an oil change".....You have earned MANY, MANY more subscribers and views! Your style and teaching methods are remarkable....I enjoy and always look forward to every new video.
I try to channel my inner James Condon calm rebuilding things. One day it would be great to have your frustrated out takes just so the rest of us can save face. Seriously though, it seems you take care in places I’d guess most of us just forge forward without forethought. Thanks for all these rebuilds and if you ever question “doing another generator rebuild” or mower or… the answer is do it. And these detailed restores (the neutral, slip ring clean, etc…) are always useful.
James, I hate to argue with you, but...the plastic 'screw' on the pilot jet actually slows the engine as it is screwed in. I had a Duromax that a fellow had screwed it all the way in and it only ran around 2000 rpm. The generator actually had an electrical problem with the carbon monoxide sensor that caused it to run for 15 seconds and die (I'm not sure why he adjusted the screw!) On another note: I had a Generac (GP5500) that came in with this EXACT issue (dropped valve, ruined piston.) The 6 bolt valve-cover heads are a MENACE. I believe the valve springs are too strong and cause excessive wear on the valves and seats. When the standard clone heads wear, the pressure-relief system begins to fail, and then it gets attention (or the user eventually ruins the rewind-starter.) The 6 bolt heads fail!
I'm not sure I'd be throwing the head away. Take of the high spots and smooth it out and replace the valve seats. That head in my opinion will do another turn James. Great video once again and thank you James🙂
What a fun video, I don't even have a generator. I just love the calm methodical process you use to diagnose the problem. Best production on you tube. Thanks, James.
Always enjoy your videos Jim, this one was certainly no exception! Great job making a useful generator out of two broken ones, hopefully you can get the original engine rebuilt and use it on another generator.
Great post James, have had the same thing happen when coil is working one day then the next no worky as well as plugs with resistors inside the plug they'll be ok one then the next time you use it your chasing rabbit's. You really help those of us that DYI our equipment and where to look and solves the problem. Tks, Michael
Keep a spare spark plug that you have tested and run under load for some time taped to the generator frame..... Then you have a known "good" plug to insert straight away in an emergency. there are fake NGK sparkplugs on the internet market....
Nice job, and funny to find that for once it actually was the plug at fault! Looking forward to the rebuild of that blown engine, what an odd failure at such low hours.
I'm watching the entire video as I post this. Got a chuckle at the beginning when you said it should be an easy one, but the video is an hour long so assume I'm in for a treat this rainy Thursday morning. Interesting cost reduction to save a few pennies on the neutral connection making it very difficult to use this genie as a home backup generator for the reason you mentioned. Bonding and grounding are difficult concepts for many folks to wrap their head around so it is disappointing when OEMs make it even more difficult..
It is possible to change the bonded arrangement on this. Disconnect the red black and white wires. Remove the connection block and replace it with one with spaces for three posts. The black and red then go on their individual posts. The two white wires then remain connected together and are connected to the third post. The ground link is then removed. Why did they design it like this? I reckon to save pennies on using a two post block rather than a three post block,
After running the wire through the carb openings I have always sprayed carb or brake parts cleaner through in the opposite direction of fuel flow to make sure anything that might have gotten disturbed by the wires is flushed out of the carb passages.
Thank you for posting this excellent video. When I saw the title of the video, I got excited and hoped to see a full engine rebuild. This was good to watch, however!
Another tutorial video - Love it. Thanks for sharing this James. I got a little lost when you decided to change engines. My clue was the oil change again.
Thanks. Does not happen often, but it does on occasion. Had the same issue with this Honda EX1000 at the 1:04:48 mark. Denso plug. th-cam.com/video/X2GIvqJTJ7E/w-d-xo.htmlsi=PkSEIdgdDtUSooxU
I'm always happy to see a new James Condon small engine repair video, but I'm happier than usual this time because the engines in this video all use exactly the same type of carburettor as the generator which I'm trying to fix. It's marked as a "Ruixing 127 Engine" carburettor. Even the air filter looks practically identical. So, where I'm up to is that I got the engine running, but it still has problems. Firstly, it seems reluctant to start even on choke. Secondly, once it's started, if I immediately open up the choke, it starts to surge. If I let it run for several seconds before opening the choke, it doesn't seem to surge. But when I put it under a 1000W load, it started surging again even though it's rated for a continuous 1500W output. Where do I go to from here? The new carburettor came with a replacement spark plug (and a power switch which is identical to the ones on the engines in this video, but the generator uses a completely different design of switch), so what I'm thinking is that I'll just try changing the spark plug next and see if that makes any difference. The only other thing I can think of off-hand is that maybe I somehow made a mistake during the installation of the carburettor and I need to take it off again and check everything I did to make sure I did it right. The generator hasn't been run often enough or for long enough for wear in the valve seat to be a problem. So, am I on the right track, or is there something else which I should check? I'm reluctant to attempt to drill out any of the jets since that's a non-reversible change which may turn out to be the wrong thing to do. Unfortunately, the jets in the old carburettor are so badly stuck that they can't be removed, at least unless I can find something to dissolve the gunk which won't damage anything else.
@@JohnSmith-pl2bk That might be what I need to do, but I first need to get the appropriate drills since even my smallest seems to be too large. And I'm not sure that it's the idle jet which needs to be made larger. I'd think that it's the main jet which would need to be drilled out. The engine will run on choke, but I need to let it run for around a minute before I can take it off choke, otherwise the engine dies around 2-3 seconds after taking it off choke.
It looked to me that you installed the choke plate differently from the orientation of when you removed it. I could be wrong, but that struck me in the moment and when I saw the plate later inside the air box, the thought occurred to me again. Anyway, I always enjoy watching the content you create, James.
I didn't catch that, but was curious if the engine ate the little piece of plastic that broke off and may have cause the misfire, and possibly damaged/fouled the plug in the process.
Hi James, you gave a very good explanation of the neutral connection, many people have no idea the house needs to be the only thing that is bonded to the neutral. the old engine looks to be very repairable, also the head although may be beat up, the valve seat looks to be intact. Without your load bank most technicians would have thought the generator was repaired. 😁 Rich
I very much enjoy these videos. It's nice to get some instruction on how to do a thorough job on these machines with tools and techniques that can be afforded often by an average or non-professional. Thank you so much!!
Hello James, I love your videos! Would it be possible, to show us around your workshop or show us the way you buy and sell your generators? I bet many young people could get inspired by this to start their own side hustle and learn something useful.
James, your rendition of Dr. Frankenstein is always so rewarding and entertaining. The tripod falling over after your remark about the wind had me laugh out loud for some reason. Looking forward to the original engine rebuild. As always, taking notes and thankful for your efforts.
Presumably it's sine wave. My kill'ah'watt lied to me on some generator outputs (Square, trap, mod). Took me a long time to figure it. Watcher beware if you don't have an o-scope like he does. Nice Rebuild as usual. If only I had that Level of Experience!
Hello James, Another excellent autopsy of the blown up engine. When you got the other engine running I was really surprised. The purpose of the solenoid on the carb, on every engine I have ever worked on, is to stop fuel without power. ie the key turned off. Usually called an anti-diesel solenoid, it prevents run on and without power it blocks the main jet from receiving fuel. That the engine ran was shocking and apparently I don't know as much as I thought. What kind of solenoid is used on that carb, and what is its function? Thanks for sharing your time and knowledge.
Same function as the carbs you work on. A lot of generator have the solenoid and are pull start only or electric start with a pull start option. The solenoid is normally open so you can pull start even with a dead battery (or no battery). When you click the ignition switch to off, generator power is sent to the solenoid through a rectifier to close the solenoid. It remains closed as the engine spins down and the generator stops making power. At that point it opens and stays that way until the ignition switch is turned off again with the engine running at speed. Generators without the pull start option (like the Generac XG10000e) work like a tractor as the carbs you normally work on.
You would have to have a "new" plug that you had run hard and long to test it to make sure it was indeed "good" as well as new. Otherwise you are just introducing a variable... it could be good or it could be bad right out of the box. There are many fake NGK sparkplugs being sold on the internet.....
I have the habit of checking new plugs not just the gap but it's resistant as well, granted you don't know for sure it's going to be good until you start the unit and put a load on you can identify plugs that are faulty before installing them, great job
Another great learning experience from Dr. GENERATOR 😂 I was going to guess that it was a Torch plug you were going to pull out. NGK....it happens to the best of them.
I always wondered why you never started out with a new plug in the beginning of your sorting out these Gensets you work on it takes out one factor less to deal with . your Videos are always great and very informative and your diagnosis are typically spot on ,awesome work Jim .
You would have to have a "new" plug that you had run hard and long to test it to make sure it was indeed "good" as well as new. Otherwise you are just introducing a variable... it could be good or it could be bad right out of the box. There are many fake NGK sparkplugs being sold on the internet.....
Usually I keep the plug in if working properly and just keep an extra in the event a plug fails. It does not happen often, but it can and does happen. I have never had a plug fail on any of my personal equipment. Also with so many fake plugs out there. There is no guarantee that the new plug is going to last.
Another interesting and informative video. I've bought carburetor kits that had new plugs. I found the hard way, many times the cheap new plugs are bad. So I use name brand plugs and stay away from the oddball stuff. That was a good call on the plug being bad. Maybe the coil isn't bad.
Note of caution: Do not keep beating on the rotor bolt if the rotor doesn't come off. You could bend the bolt or break the crankshaft. Try the water method if a couple good whacks doesn't work. See other videos of James' to see how the water method works.
It's a long shot, but perhaps your tablet for showing the sine wave has built-in protection for surges and just needs to be reset. Those pinhole reset switches have saved me a time or two from throwing away something that I thought was broken but just needed to be reset.
Muchas gracias James por tus vídeos que nos enseñan tantas cosas. Algún día tienes que explicar que valores de distorsión harmónica son aceptables y porqué. Gracias!!!
Thanks for another good video, James. Not sure about gasoline engines, but in electornics repair if I replace some component which shows no signs of damage and device starts working, I put that component back, maybe repeat replacement procedure for a few times. Sometimes it is just a coincident. However, I definitely have no your experience in gasoline engines, maybe such spark plug failure is common.
16:50 I think it is designed like that so that the bolt is only seating the rotor on the tapered shaft. It is the tapered shaft and not the bolt that is load bearing in that sense. If the bolt was what held the rotor in place during operation, it would probably fly apart with all that play.
What I don't like about that bolt is that without it centered, the rotor will be out of balance. In the past he has wrapped tape around it to make sure it stays centered, but it seems that it isn't necessary.
Good lessons here. A marginal plug, a marginal coil, might be enough to slip over the edge at full power demand. Spark plugs can be super deceptive. Kenny has that spark plug tester tool, I wonder how that old plug would test. I wonder if that old coil is really dead. Good education in sharing the challenges of bringing it back to life. Is that engine a Generac Chonda Clone? Or is it a Briggs clone? Or is the Briggs OHV just a Briggs Chonda? Thank you Sir for sharing this video!
That genny looked so clean on disassembly that I would be asking questions about the original warranty. EDIT : Oh, I just saw the 2018 tag. Well it was exceptionally well stored!
I've been watching some of your older videos while i'm healing up from having teeth pulled then after i heal enough i need to do some work on my 4 wheeler that needed to be done when i 1st got it but never had the time to
Great video! Interesting how the engine grenades. Warranty should be on how many hours is run not how long you've had it, but then its another bunch of problems!
For the type of spark plug failure you had, I’d take a magnifying glass and bright light and have a real good look down inside and also on the porcelain outside, looking for a tiny crack.
04:02 There's your problem. This seems to happen to a lot of emergency generators I've seen. The only time they're used is when the weather is really nasty and the power goes down, that means rain, wind, and snow. Then they're left outside not covered and they rust, corrode, and get filled with water.
James you should wire out the fan on the load bank to a different source of power possibly 120v so you can use house power to run the fan that way in the future should the generator stall the cooling fan will keep running to avoid damaging the load bank
I recently bought a Generac power boss 4500 with a Honda engine. The p.o. said it quit running. It started right up and after about 2 or 3 minutes it acted exactly like this one did. A new plug fixed it as well. I have a Generac just like the one in this video. If the power boss would have been bigger I would have kept it.
Because the valve stem is always under tension and in combination with heat, I suspect the valve stem actually stretches over time and the the rocker arm clearance decreases.
Your vids are always helpful and informative! Quick question..... In some cases, are generator outputs rating more about engine size (power) than the power heads capability?
@@randallfawc7501 for example the Ryobi 5500 watt generator has a 420cc engine which can pull 7500 watts, but the generator is only rated at 5500 watts. Not a bad thing to have an oversized engine. It will handle surges better and the engine will never be over worked.
@jcondon1 -- Are those special screwdrivers you use on the carbs jets? From my observations, a normal flat-head would get wider as it approached the shaft but those look to get no wider than the shaft.
Nice diagnosis, good thought to keep in mind regarding the spark plug. Sorry you may have lost your scope. That brought a question to mind concerning the output waveform distortion. With newer HVAC systems using electronic controls, what is the potential of that causing damage to a control board? Have you ever run into issues like this? Thanks for your videos.
I hear a lot about HVAC systems being damaged by generators. I have not had that issue personally, but I also have an older HVAC system and run an inverter generator.
That choke plate must be a quality control issue. Because I have worked two gens that had the same issue and I have not found a part to just replace the choke so you have to buy a whole new carb if you don't have used ones to pull parts off of.
It did not survive. Ended up buying the same model except now using a 100x probe instead of a 10x. The max voltage the oscilloscope came handle is 12 volts. So using a 10x probe I was maxing it out at 120 volts input. Some generators put out more and technically I have been overloaded the scope all along. So now it should be much more able to handle a surge.
@@jcondon1 By probe do you mean an attenuator or something else? I'm in the market myself for a simple 2 channel scope. Not sure if I am going with a regular scope or the mulitmeter type. I have a bunch of DMM's but I like the format. A regular stand alone scope is also nice to have.
@@jcondon1 I was hoping to see you try to repair it! Not that a front end blown badly enough to prevent the device turning on is likely to be repairable.
@@scotts4125 An Oscilloscope probe is the cable with a ground clip and a tip that has a sharp point, generally used with a separate cap that includes a hooked clip. Oscilloscope probes all have a 1:10 attenuator that you can switch in. For various reasons, you pretty much always use them with that attenuator, largely because it isolates the circuit from the capacitance of the probe's cable. For higher voltage work, you can get probes with 1:100, 1:1000 or greater attenuators. They are called 10x, 100x or higher, because you when using them, you (or the scope's computer) has to multiply the reading by that factor. If you wanting to carry it around or are very cheap, multimeter types are OK as is the type of one that James is using, but a bench oscilloscope is much nicer to use.
Hard to believe a bad plug caused the engine to stumble and carry on like it did especially when the plug end looked good. Very few times have I encountered a bad plug that looked good but I have in multi cylinder engines on cars.
Question on the Load Bank: I assume it has cooling fan(s) and those fans are only powered by the generator? So when the high test load overcomes the generator, cooling is lost? It would seem that a battery cooling fan with recharging of the battery being provided by the source juice might be a design improvement. I understand what the load bank does and why. But the load causing failure causing cooling loss causing failure of the bank seems like a real possibility.
I can't believe how excited I am seeing that James Condon just put up a new video. Love it! Thanks.
James, I am 82 years old and am going through a difficult time in my life. Your videos have helped me bridge this time and distract me from negative thoughts. I have watched over 100 and have only made a couple of comments because so many other clearly capable viewers have said so many good and useful things. Ironically, too, I live in Germany where we virtually never have loss of electricity or blackouts due to our modern and advanced infrastructure (all cables underground). I don't know anyone with a generator aside from a few folks with RVs. Nonetheless, I watch your videos, as I am sure many others due, as a source of peace and calm. Thank you kindly for all of the efforts you make to share your expertise and experience in this therapeutic manner.
Thanks I appreciate the feedback. Glad I can help in some small way. I wish you the best. -Jim
@BruceBoschek Stay positive! I was in bad shape 3 years ago (MDS) but thankfully, a countryman of yours was a match for me and provided the stem cells I desperately needed. I'm nearly back to normal now. Miracles happen!!!
@@TimDyb Thanks for the kind words.☺
@@jcondon1 the bonded ground, why didn't you move the neutral back to a new 3 pole block?
Absolutely! James voice and manner lend much to his efforts in these videos. I, too, enjoy the videos because they are done in such a way as to keep my attention... It's useful information presented like a good story. Just as enjoyable as a favorite non fiction TV show. I used to do a lot of repair work and wish I had a shop again. I would love to go back to work. Great videos for keeping up my motivation!
Protip James: Anytime you get a bad coil like that and have to change it, make it a default to also replace the plug. A bad plug can destroy a coil - this advice is also valid for cars especially most modern ones with separate coils for each cylinder. Change out a bad coil, replace the plug at the same time. Can't hurt and saves revisiting a bad coil again which I have seen happen due to a bad plug with really low resistance due to being faulty. Cheers 🙂
James, great videos. My older brother is 81 now. He is one of the only small engine mechanics in our small community. He got is his start as a large aircraft mechanic in the Air Force in the 60's. If and when he closes up shop, he will be missed.
Another great analysis of a non running machine w a LOT of pathology. Step by step and extremely thorough. As a trained ear physician and surgeon, I also have come to appreciate the IMPORTANCE of being able to hear and "analyze" the sounds of the engine. Without good hearing the mechanic would be at a substantial DISadvantage. And, there is SO much information provided by the sounds of the running engine. Many thanks!!
Thankfully my hearing is good. Eye sight not so much :(
My sister in law is an ENT that specializes in ears also. Cochlear's and baha's seem to be her groove. Their father was also an ENT. My wife is the black sheep. She's a dermatologist. :)
@@jcondon1HUH?
I've been watching your videos for a couple of years now and they are the most professionally, well articulated repair videos out there! No need for me to take Dramamine to be able to watch your videos, like so many of the other channels that use the head-bob-cam!! Thank you for your efforts and I look forward to your next video!
Thanks 👍
when I was younger I had a job with a general maintenance guy who gave the same sense of reassurance. no matter what the issue was he was calm, and always had another plan if that didn't work. As long as I knew he was there, or at the other end of the phone, we were all fearless and would attack every job with confidence. After he retired we all fell to pieces for an embarrassingly long time. We were afraid to start anything out of the norm without our safety blanket.
Nice to see you work it out logically. Being able to not enter "wrench throwing mode" is a good thing. We also learned why the first carb was missing the choke plate.
Ditto on all the comments thus far. I'm 87 and in the same boat as BruceBoschek from Germany. (wish I could connect with him - if I knew how?) I love your videos. I used to teach "Small Gas Engines" in a Middle School. Best students that I ever had - and most fun/satisfying (if I had known then what I learned now from you!)
Wish I had you as a teacher. I did not learn about small engines until later in life. I was missing out. If you reply on Bruce’s comment he might see it and respond.
Thanks for responding to my email with the advice on how to fix my generator!!!!
Thanks. Let me know how you make out. I am curious if the wrong capacitor is in there.
James - you found those valves at almost zero clearance! I was recently working on a John Deere 135 Automatic lawn tractor with 330 hours on the meter. Among other issues it had a slow/difficult time turning over to start. When I had the valve covers off to replace gaskets (bolts under-torqued causing leaking onto exhaust and resultant smoking) I checked the valve clearances. I found the Rights at .019 and the Lefts at .017 & .025 (instead of the spec .004-.006 for both)! I guess you just never know what you're going to find! In the end the FaceBook group experts suggested that it was bolt stretch over time, although I'm not fully convinced that's the correct reason. Pretty sure, though, that nobody had done the 200 hour check. Owner drove home with a smile on his face after the tractor started immediately. :)
I work at an equipment hire company, and you can guess the damage done to some of the returned equipment. I love working to repair these broken machines. Your videos have helped so much. Thanks.
I smile every time the lifter gets used. Best thing you ever bought for the shop, a back saver.
Yes. A gift to the Channel as I recall, along with many other gifts feeding our pleasure. Thanks to all, in All!
What a pleasure it is to watch someone who love what they do for a living it rubs off on all of us. I can’t thank you enough we are blessed by your videos 👍🏼
Thanks
Like you often say...."this engine has earned an oil change".....You have earned MANY, MANY more subscribers and views! Your style and teaching methods are remarkable....I enjoy and always look forward to every new video.
A good day combined with a lucky day - which you richly deserve. Thanks for making my day!
The information on when to ground the neutral was one of the best explanations i have heard, thank you.
I was very pleased to hear it explained in simple terms 😊
Same here.
I try to channel my inner James Condon calm rebuilding things. One day it would be great to have your frustrated out takes just so the rest of us can save face. Seriously though, it seems you take care in places I’d guess most of us just forge forward without forethought. Thanks for all these rebuilds and if you ever question “doing another generator rebuild” or mower or… the answer is do it. And these detailed restores (the neutral, slip ring clean, etc…) are always useful.
Yeah, they’re good videos to fall asleep by
Somewhere there has to be video of him kicking a gen off his cool lift and some loud swearing. :)
James, I hate to argue with you, but...the plastic 'screw' on the pilot jet actually slows the engine as it is screwed in. I had a Duromax that a fellow had screwed it all the way in and it only ran around 2000 rpm. The generator actually had an electrical problem with the carbon monoxide sensor that caused it to run for 15 seconds and die (I'm not sure why he adjusted the screw!)
On another note: I had a Generac (GP5500) that came in with this EXACT issue (dropped valve, ruined piston.) The 6 bolt valve-cover heads are a MENACE. I believe the valve springs are too strong and cause excessive wear on the valves and seats. When the standard clone heads wear, the pressure-relief system begins to fail, and then it gets attention (or the user eventually ruins the rewind-starter.) The 6 bolt heads fail!
Great fix and troubleshooting James, can't wait for the engine rebuild from that generator 😊
I'm not sure I'd be throwing the head away. Take of the high spots and smooth it out and replace the valve seats. That head in my opinion will do another turn James. Great video once again and thank you James🙂
I have a bin of Honda clone heads. They are not hemi heads like this one, but bet I can convert it.
@@jcondon1 That would be very interesting to watch if you plan on making a video on it James.
Another great video. Watching all your videos again, for the 3rd time. Best entertainment on TV!
Are you serious? The best video in TV user the best videos to fall asleep I are you kidding me what’s wrong with you?
Wow that a serious compression issue 😆. Get after it James!!
Never thought I'd see an engine on this channel that would qualify to appear in an engine teardown on the I Do Cars channel...!
I will tear it fully down next week and try to rebuild it.
What a fun video, I don't even have a generator. I just love the calm methodical process you use to diagnose the problem. Best production on you tube. Thanks, James.
Love the fast forward segments. As long as you keep giving your thorough insights for the technical stuff.
A complete teardown is always informative. Thanks for your experience.
I am impressed with your knowledge of these repairs you do.
Your patience in adversity is remarkable! Wow!
The engine rebuild looks to be as enjoyable as this. Thank-you!
Hope your O'scope isn't permanently damaged!
You beat me to it lol I was gonna say this 😂
Always enjoy your videos Jim, this one was certainly no exception! Great job making a useful generator out of two broken ones, hopefully you can get the original engine rebuilt and use it on another generator.
I like your helpful hints that you give while you're working. That is truly the voice of experience. Thanks for all your tips.
Great post James,
have had the same thing happen when coil is working one day then the next no worky as well as plugs with resistors inside the plug they'll be ok one then the next time you use it your chasing rabbit's.
You really help those of us that DYI our equipment and where to look and solves the problem.
Tks, Michael
Keep a spare spark plug that you have tested and run under load for some time taped to the generator frame.....
Then you have a known "good" plug to insert straight away in an emergency.
there are fake NGK sparkplugs on the internet market....
Nice job, and funny to find that for once it actually was the plug at fault! Looking forward to the rebuild of that blown engine, what an odd failure at such low hours.
Always watching you and learning. Regards from the Philippines..
Loving your new purpose-suitable hammers. The old days with a broken claw hammer were a bit scary. 🙂
Think the engine was just running too fast. The springs could not close the valves in time and the piston started making contact.
Excellent job James: I occasionally find bad plugs in engines and now have a habit of changing them even is they look o.k. Thanks for the video.
I'm watching the entire video as I post this. Got a chuckle at the beginning when you said it should be an easy one, but the video is an hour long so assume I'm in for a treat this rainy Thursday morning.
Interesting cost reduction to save a few pennies on the neutral connection making it very difficult to use this genie as a home backup generator for the reason you mentioned. Bonding and grounding are difficult concepts for many folks to wrap their head around so it is disappointing when OEMs make it even more difficult..
It is possible to change the bonded arrangement on this. Disconnect the red black and white wires. Remove the connection block and replace it with one with spaces for three posts. The black and red then go on their individual posts. The two white wires then remain connected together and are connected to the third post. The ground link is then removed. Why did they design it like this? I reckon to save pennies on using a two post block rather than a three post block,
Great job James again on something free. You should do ok on this.
After running the wire through the carb openings I have always sprayed carb or brake parts cleaner through in the opposite direction of fuel flow to make sure anything that might have gotten disturbed by the wires is flushed out of the carb passages.
When the coil went out I was impressed how fast you can move when you're not taki g time to explain things!
Nice work Jim!!! Sometimes it takes a little bit to work out the bugs! Hope you rebuild the other engine. Thanks!
Once again thank you for your instructions and examples. I just fixed my fifth generator.
Excellent!
Terrific video! A bad plug ? Wow,wow,wow.
Thank you for posting this excellent video. When I saw the title of the video, I got excited and hoped to see a full engine rebuild. This was good to watch, however!
The rebuild attempt will be this weeks video.
@@jcondon1 I will watch for it. 🙂
Another tutorial video - Love it. Thanks for sharing this James. I got a little lost when you decided to change engines. My clue was the oil change again.
Wow thats a new one for me. I have never seen a plug do that. Nice work. Great video as always!
Thanks. Does not happen often, but it does on occasion. Had the same issue with this Honda EX1000 at the 1:04:48 mark. Denso plug. th-cam.com/video/X2GIvqJTJ7E/w-d-xo.htmlsi=PkSEIdgdDtUSooxU
I'm always happy to see a new James Condon small engine repair video, but I'm happier than usual this time because the engines in this video all use exactly the same type of carburettor as the generator which I'm trying to fix. It's marked as a "Ruixing 127 Engine" carburettor. Even the air filter looks practically identical.
So, where I'm up to is that I got the engine running, but it still has problems. Firstly, it seems reluctant to start even on choke. Secondly, once it's started, if I immediately open up the choke, it starts to surge. If I let it run for several seconds before opening the choke, it doesn't seem to surge. But when I put it under a 1000W load, it started surging again even though it's rated for a continuous 1500W output.
Where do I go to from here? The new carburettor came with a replacement spark plug (and a power switch which is identical to the ones on the engines in this video, but the generator uses a completely different design of switch), so what I'm thinking is that I'll just try changing the spark plug next and see if that makes any difference.
The only other thing I can think of off-hand is that maybe I somehow made a mistake during the installation of the carburettor and I need to take it off again and check everything I did to make sure I did it right. The generator hasn't been run often enough or for long enough for wear in the valve seat to be a problem.
So, am I on the right track, or is there something else which I should check? I'm reluctant to attempt to drill out any of the jets since that's a non-reversible change which may turn out to be the wrong thing to do. Unfortunately, the jets in the old carburettor are so badly stuck that they can't be removed, at least unless I can find something to dissolve the gunk which won't damage anything else.
Surging = lean.
Open up the idle jet with a fine drill one size larger as shown by James many times in his videos...
@@JohnSmith-pl2bk That might be what I need to do, but I first need to get the appropriate drills since even my smallest seems to be too large. And I'm not sure that it's the idle jet which needs to be made larger. I'd think that it's the main jet which would need to be drilled out. The engine will run on choke, but I need to let it run for around a minute before I can take it off choke, otherwise the engine dies around 2-3 seconds after taking it off choke.
It looked to me that you installed the choke plate differently from the orientation of when you removed it. I could be wrong, but that struck me in the moment and when I saw the plate later inside the air box, the thought occurred to me again. Anyway, I always enjoy watching the content you create, James.
I didn't catch that, but was curious if the engine ate the little piece of plastic that broke off and may have cause the misfire, and possibly damaged/fouled the plug in the process.
You touched on the bonded ground in a previous video but really didn’t explain it as clearly as this time, thanks.
Thanks James.
I noticed right below the Hour Meter it is printed right on the Panel that the neutral is connected to the Frame.
Usually it is indicated on the frame and the manual.
Nice...that looks brand new
Hi James, you gave a very good explanation of the neutral connection, many people have no idea the house needs to be the only thing that is bonded to the neutral.
the old engine looks to be very repairable, also the head although may be beat up, the valve seat looks to be intact.
Without your load bank most technicians would have thought the generator was repaired. 😁
Rich
I going to try and rebuilt the trashed engine. The issue is cost. I have extra clone parts for a standard head engine, but this one is a hemi.
@@jcondon1 that what I would do and try to use the head as well. parts are reasonable.
Rich
I very much enjoy these videos. It's nice to get some instruction on how to do a thorough job on these machines with tools and techniques that can be afforded often by an average or non-professional. Thank you so much!!
Hello James, I love your videos! Would it be possible, to show us around your workshop or show us the way you buy and sell your generators? I bet many young people could get inspired by this to start their own side hustle and learn something useful.
James, your rendition of Dr. Frankenstein is always so rewarding and entertaining. The tripod falling over after your remark about the wind had me laugh out loud for some reason. Looking forward to the original engine rebuild. As always, taking notes and thankful for your efforts.
Thanks
Presumably it's sine wave. My kill'ah'watt lied to me on some generator outputs (Square, trap, mod). Took me a long time to figure it. Watcher beware if you don't have an o-scope like he does.
Nice Rebuild as usual. If only I had that Level of Experience!
Hello James,
Another excellent autopsy of the blown up engine. When you got the other engine running I was really surprised.
The purpose of the solenoid on the carb, on every engine I have ever worked on, is to stop fuel without power. ie the key turned off.
Usually called an anti-diesel solenoid, it prevents run on and without power it blocks the main jet from receiving fuel.
That the engine ran was shocking and apparently I don't know as much as I thought.
What kind of solenoid is used on that carb, and what is its function?
Thanks for sharing your time and knowledge.
Same function as the carbs you work on. A lot of generator have the solenoid and are pull start only or electric start with a pull start option. The solenoid is normally open so you can pull start even with a dead battery (or no battery). When you click the ignition switch to off, generator power is sent to the solenoid through a rectifier to close the solenoid. It remains closed as the engine spins down and the generator stops making power. At that point it opens and stays that way until the ignition switch is turned off again with the engine running at speed. Generators without the pull start option (like the Generac XG10000e) work like a tractor as the carbs you normally work on.
Good lessons learned here! Spark plugs are cheap, it makes sense to swap them out when servicing and changing the oil.
You would have to have a "new" plug that you had run hard and long to test it to make sure it was indeed "good" as well as new.
Otherwise you are just introducing a variable...
it could be good or it could be bad right out of the box.
There are many fake NGK sparkplugs being sold on the internet.....
👍👍👍👍👍🤜🤛 I am glad to see that you did not fry your machines.
I have the habit of checking new plugs not just the gap but it's resistant as well, granted you don't know for sure it's going to be good until you start the unit and put a load on you can identify plugs that are faulty before installing them, great job
Plugs are cheap. It would probably be worthwhile to just go ahead and put a new plug in every one.
Another great learning experience from Dr. GENERATOR 😂 I was going to guess that it was a Torch plug you were going to pull out. NGK....it happens to the best of them.
There are a lot of counterfeit NGK plugs out there. No telling if this one was real.
Spark plug experiment, How about testing the Hi_Pot resistance on your Megger? Great video as always. Great sound and video quality. Thanks
It may have passed. Seemed to only break down under heat and pressure.
I always wondered why you never started out with a new plug in the beginning of your sorting out these Gensets you work on it takes out one factor less to deal with . your Videos are always great and very informative and your diagnosis are typically spot on ,awesome work Jim .
You would have to have a "new" plug that you had run hard and long to test it to make sure it was indeed "good" as well as new.
Otherwise you are just introducing a variable...
it could be good or it could be bad right out of the box.
There are many fake NGK sparkplugs being sold on the internet.....
Usually I keep the plug in if working properly and just keep an extra in the event a plug fails. It does not happen often, but it can and does happen. I have never had a plug fail on any of my personal equipment. Also with so many fake plugs out there. There is no guarantee that the new plug is going to last.
Another interesting and informative video.
I've bought carburetor kits that had new plugs. I found the hard way, many times the cheap new plugs are bad. So I use name brand plugs and stay away from the oddball stuff. That was a good call on the plug being bad. Maybe the coil isn't bad.
Fake NGK plugs are sold on the internet...
I always keep the name brand used plug in and toss the plugs that come in those kits.
Note of caution: Do not keep beating on the rotor bolt if the rotor doesn't come off. You could bend the bolt or break the crankshaft. Try the water method if a couple good whacks doesn't work. See other videos of James' to see how the water method works.
It's a long shot, but perhaps your tablet for showing the sine wave has built-in protection for surges and just needs to be reset. Those pinhole reset switches have saved me a time or two from throwing away something that I thought was broken but just needed to be reset.
Muchas gracias James por tus vídeos que nos enseñan tantas cosas. Algún día tienes que explicar que valores de distorsión harmónica son aceptables y porqué. Gracias!!!
Excellent instructional video, as always!
Nice going James
Always a pleasure to watch you work.
Thanks for another good video, James. Not sure about gasoline engines, but in electornics repair if I replace some component which shows no signs of damage and device starts working, I put that component back, maybe repeat replacement procedure for a few times. Sometimes it is just a coincident. However, I definitely have no your experience in gasoline engines, maybe such spark plug failure is common.
16:50 I think it is designed like that so that the bolt is only seating the rotor on the tapered shaft. It is the tapered shaft and not the bolt that is load bearing in that sense. If the bolt was what held the rotor in place during operation, it would probably fly apart with all that play.
What I don't like about that bolt is that without it centered, the rotor will be out of balance. In the past he has wrapped tape around it to make sure it stays centered, but it seems that it isn't necessary.
Great video, lot’s of challenges and a little scare!👍👍👍👍
Hey Jim, welcome back 😁
It's like watching a ballet, or listing to Gustav Mahler's Symphony No. 5. It's magic!!
Good lessons here. A marginal plug, a marginal coil, might be enough to slip over the edge at full power demand. Spark plugs can be super deceptive. Kenny has that spark plug tester tool, I wonder how that old plug would test. I wonder if that old coil is really dead. Good education in sharing the challenges of bringing it back to life. Is that engine a Generac Chonda Clone? Or is it a Briggs clone? Or is the Briggs OHV just a Briggs Chonda? Thank you Sir for sharing this video!
Both Briggs and generac use Honda clones.
I definitely learned something today...thank you!
That genny looked so clean on disassembly that I would be asking questions about the original warranty.
EDIT : Oh, I just saw the 2018 tag. Well it was exceptionally well stored!
I've been watching some of your older videos while i'm healing up from having teeth pulled then after i heal enough i need to do some work on my 4 wheeler that needed to be done when i 1st got it but never had the time to
Talking about the valves they can stretch over time also.
Enjoyed the video. Thanks for sharing
Great video! Interesting how the engine grenades. Warranty should be on how many hours is run not how long you've had it, but then its another bunch of problems!
For the type of spark plug failure you had, I’d take a magnifying glass and bright light and have a real good look down inside and also on the porcelain outside, looking for a tiny crack.
Fake NGK plugs are only too available on the internet...
04:02 There's your problem. This seems to happen to a lot of emergency generators I've seen. The only time they're used is when the weather is really nasty and the power goes down, that means rain, wind, and snow. Then they're left outside not covered and they rust, corrode, and get filled with water.
James you should wire out the fan on the load bank to a different source of power possibly 120v so you can use house power to run the fan that way in the future should the generator stall the cooling fan will keep running to avoid damaging the load bank
I recently bought a Generac power boss 4500 with a Honda engine. The p.o. said it quit running. It started right up and after about 2 or 3 minutes it acted exactly like this one did. A new plug fixed it as well. I have a Generac just like the one in this video. If the power boss would have been bigger I would have kept it.
that was a rocky road .. scary backfires . a real dream machine one pull starts .
Because the valve stem is always under tension and in combination with heat, I suspect the valve stem actually stretches over time and the the rocker arm clearance decreases.
Your vids are always helpful and informative! Quick question..... In some cases, are generator outputs rating more about engine size (power) than the power heads capability?
Sometimes the limitation is the generator head and other times the engine.
@@jcondon1 Thanks James.
@@randallfawc7501 for example the Ryobi 5500 watt generator has a 420cc engine which can pull 7500 watts, but the generator is only rated at 5500 watts. Not a bad thing to have an oversized engine. It will handle surges better and the engine will never be over worked.
@@jcondon1 Thats good info. Thanks James!!
As Eric on I do Cars would say that’s some serious malice in the combustion palace. I hope your scope just has a blown fuse.
@jcondon1 -- Are those special screwdrivers you use on the carbs jets? From my observations, a normal flat-head would get wider as it approached the shaft but those look to get no wider than the shaft.
They are. Here is a link to a review on them. Unfortunately they do not make them anymore. th-cam.com/video/jN5c76XCQFo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=J0cboalGXj90s_48
@@jcondon1 Thank you! At least I know what to look for now. A second use case is a huge plus!
Nice diagnosis, good thought to keep in mind regarding the spark plug. Sorry you may have lost your scope. That brought a question to mind concerning the output waveform distortion. With newer HVAC systems using electronic controls, what is the potential of that causing damage to a control board? Have you ever run into issues like this? Thanks for your videos.
I hear a lot about HVAC systems being damaged by generators. I have not had that issue personally, but I also have an older HVAC system and run an inverter generator.
That choke plate must be a quality control issue. Because I have worked two gens that had the same issue and I have not found a part to just replace the choke so you have to buy a whole new carb if you don't have used ones to pull parts off of.
The last carb I used had a metal choke plate shaft. Hopefully it will hold up.
Thanks for another great video, James. How is your Oscilloscope?
It did not survive. Ended up buying the same model except now using a 100x probe instead of a 10x. The max voltage the oscilloscope came handle is 12 volts. So using a 10x probe I was maxing it out at 120 volts input. Some generators put out more and technically I have been overloaded the scope all along. So now it should be much more able to handle a surge.
@@jcondon1 I'm sure it will. Thanks for the answer.
@@jcondon1 By probe do you mean an attenuator or something else? I'm in the market myself for a simple 2 channel scope. Not sure if I am going with a regular scope or the mulitmeter type. I have a bunch of DMM's but I like the format. A regular stand alone scope is also nice to have.
@@jcondon1 I was hoping to see you try to repair it! Not that a front end blown badly enough to prevent the device turning on is likely to be repairable.
@@scotts4125 An Oscilloscope probe is the cable with a ground clip and a tip that has a sharp point, generally used with a separate cap that includes a hooked clip. Oscilloscope probes all have a 1:10 attenuator that you can switch in. For various reasons, you pretty much always use them with that attenuator, largely because it isolates the circuit from the capacitance of the probe's cable. For higher voltage work, you can get probes with 1:100, 1:1000 or greater attenuators. They are called 10x, 100x or higher, because you when using them, you (or the scope's computer) has to multiply the reading by that factor.
If you wanting to carry it around or are very cheap, multimeter types are OK as is the type of one that James is using, but a bench oscilloscope is much nicer to use.
Thank you James for another good video
Hard to believe a bad plug caused the engine to stumble and carry on like it did especially when the plug end looked good. Very few times have I encountered a bad plug that looked good but I have in multi cylinder engines on cars.
Question on the Load Bank: I assume it has cooling fan(s) and those fans are only powered by the generator? So when the high test load overcomes the generator, cooling is lost? It would seem that a battery cooling fan with recharging of the battery being provided by the source juice might be a design improvement. I understand what the load bank does and why. But the load causing failure causing cooling loss causing failure of the bank seems like a real possibility.
Hydrolic lifters also have shimming that wear down aswel
The choke plate might have been missing when new and someone tried to compensate for hard starting by turning the idle screw way in.
Wow, so much good info in this one