Making My Crappy Scroll Saw Work Better And Cut Accurately
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ต.ค. 2024
- This relatively simple fix works surprisingly well.
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This relatively simple fix works surprisingly well.
You can help support the work I do in making these videos:
Plans for sale: www.ibuildit.ca/plans.html
Support this channel on Patreon:
www.patreon.com/user?u=865843&ty=h
Did you know I have other TH-cam channels?
My main channel:
th-cam.com/users/jpheisz
My home reno channel:
th-cam.com/users/IBuildItHome
My "Scrap bin" channel:
th-cam.com/users/IBuildItScrapBin
Website: www.ibuildit.ca/
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I Build It what if the friction heat warps the plastic over time?
I Build It You are a true thinker and a problem solver sir
I Build It nice fix
what is that ending song
I build It, I have a scroll saw buried somewhere in the back of my shed, used it once and was not at all impressed, for the same reason you demonstrated, I am now excited to dig it out tomorrow and do your fix, thank you sir :)
There have been so many times over the years were I have gone nuts trying to get something done and when I'm almost there I notice the obvious easier way thanks for sharing one of your moments
always love the way the camera picks up stuff like this at high speeds.
Bet you could sell that fantastic "Dang I'm stupid"-chuckle as a ringtone or something!! I know I love it!!!
I made it in my Makita 401 and it worked! Thank you so much, it is much better now
Excellent solution to a pestering problem, nicely done John............... Steve
Excellent! Some of us just can't leave "bad enough" alone! The reason I subscribe.
Nice fix! My Delta scroll saw came with a small sheet of peel and stick rectangle shape stickers to shim the insert to match the work surface. Gets the job done.
Canadian Tire must love that title!
I'm not from up north, I wouldn't know about the product personally.. but from the slow-mo shots, they deserve it
Canadian Harbor Freight, cheap shit if you need a tool like once.
Crappy Tire
Very clever, John! a super quick fix that exponentially changed the functionality of the tool!
Thank you for showing us all how to fix something like this , and the insert problem too 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I've found that a lot of lower end and even a few upper end scroll saws do this! Nice fix. 👍
"Oh, I'm being stupid, I could drill this from underneath" - That just made my day :)
I love that you left that in the video. I've been down a path like that so many times, and there is a simple solution or work around staring me right in the face. It makes me feel that much better to see that I'm not the only one.
Jay
An excellent video well thought out and beautifully explained - many thanks
Nice fix, simple and easy to adjust and repair. Hope it lasts a while for you. Thanks for the video.
I have a cheaper Dremel 16" scroll saw and don't seem to have this problem.
i think its because the blade clamps are closer to the arms and do not hang down as far like the ones on your saw.
Also, your machine seems to be missing the rubber tensioner bushing under the tension adjustment.
Although i do like your Teflon blade guide mod.
Thanks John, perfect timing, just got a new saw, different brand, & has the same problem including the insert. I'll give both of your mods a go.
Some saws actually, have an adjustment for this. Check your owner's manual. Also, check out sdgood. His channel is all about scroll saws.
Brilliant solution as usual John.
Great job John. Always fun to watch. I have spied two shop time stickers! Keep it up.
I see you did this 3 years ago. I was wondering if you had to redo it anytime after? I have the same scroll saw and also have the same problem you had. Great video and thanks for sharing.
I have the same saw. One fix I made was to replace the little set screws that hold the blade with M5 hex head bolts and I can now use a nut driver to tighten. Where did you get the plastic bit? BTW thanks for your efforts.
Excellent fix, very clever and well done. Thank you for sharing this....I think we have the very same problem.
Nice fix. I have an equally cheap jig saw from HF. Going to check it out now. Thanks for the tip.
I just got a scroll saw, and... I really don't think I'm any expert, but just from what I can tell of the mechanics involved in scroll saw reciprocation, the back swing of the blade is intensional, and with purpose. When it swings back on the up-swing, it is to stay clear of the wood, and then return to a downward cutting stroke, as the teeth are facing downward. If you shorten the backstroke of the swing, then you must slow your feed rate, and or risk over heating the blade. I know this is an older video... and I have seen your scroll sitting off in a corner buried!! lol, Maybe you could revisit it someday?
I often wonder when I see these type of videos, if the manufacturer / engineer/ designer ever makes changes based on your assessment and refit. Well done John.
One Leg at a Time , this lesser expensive saw was designed like this on purpose. More expensive ones have an adjustment that controls the amount of tilt from a more aggressive cut like this, to the vertical which is only good for thin stock and fine fret work where you work very slowly. If he tries to cut 3/4” stock with this ‘fix’ it won’t work well because the saw dust can’t be cleared and it will be very slow.
I would go and buy one of those saws now that I see how easy you made that fix because, for all the use I would give it, the saw would serve me well.
Nice fix. Definitely a big improvement.
Nice easy fix John! Thanks for sharing
Nice fix John.
On many scroll saws, the forward and back is intentional. On the down stroke the blade moves forward into the cut and on the up stroke it moves back. On some of the newer higher end saws this can be adjusted so there is little forward movement in the cutting stroke. On thicker wood, like 3/4 or greater, it is good to have that more aggressive cutting. Side to side is a bad thing tho.
John, I wouldn't be surprised if wood wouldn't last longer than the plastic. One of the properties of wood is that it is relatively hard to wear down when in contact with a smooth surface. Just make sure you follow the grain and not the edge.
*_The cable cars of San Francisco are fitted with mechanical track brakes, controlled by a large braking lever next to the grip lever. Pulling back on this lever forces replaceable pine wood blocks against the rails; as a result, a cable car descending a steep hill emits an odor of smoldering wood. These track brakes are routinely used many times while traversing a cable car route._*
I imagine it will last for the life of the tool because it only gets used once in great while. Somebody who wants to sit there all day making scroll saw art is going to buy a decent one in the first place.
This is probably true, but even then, why go through all the trouble to manufacture a tool that doesn't work well?
So they can sell you a better one in the future of course!
Because a lot more engineering and parts go into making a saw that has less forward-back movement of the blade. He didn't really need to do this to get precision cuts. He just had to work with the saw some more to learn to work with it. All my scroll saws have been like this and I make very precise, very small parts with them.
.
Very nice modification!
great fix! how did it hold up over time - still going strong? And does it affect the ability to tilt the table (if such ability even exists)?
Creative and constructive! Good job!
I bought this machine over a year ago and haven't used it yet. I just plugged it in and turned it on then put it back in the box and in my cupboard until I finish building my workshop.
Awesome solution. I had to throw mine out, it just shook and grabbed stuff out of my fingers. Frustrated, I wasnt as patient as you. I saw brand new ones did the same thing - wonder why the tool was so shaky, seemed like work just to get it to cooperate.
Hi! I have decided to make my own table saw, and i have a couple of cuestions. How can i make it safer? Does a riving knife fit in any saw?
Great fix! Try using a much smaller blade.
In addition, you can create a MUCH better support/zero clearance insert just by adding a large piece of thin laminate to the top of the table.
Great fix for a cheap machine
Nice Scroll Saw!
When you put the table on my inner nerd saw the Starship Enterprise.
you may know but I really don't know, is that swing on that blade used just like the swing on a jig saw ?
I have the same unit. Ive had zero issues with it what so ever. They have an awesome warranty they stand by, you should have brought it back, they would have gave a brand new one.
That was great. I like it when people actually analyze and fix something that bugs them! AND I like it that you show us how 'stupid' you can be and drill from the underside. I can't tell you how many times I've done something like this so I'm glad you didn't edit it out. BTW, your closeups and highspeeds were GREAT! I don't know where you get that plastic stuff so if you have a link to a supplier, I want it. AND we are now subscribed.
Just a lil tip. You should put a small drop of transmission fluid while you drill that will help your bits immensely. ✌🏻🤟🏼from Denver Colorado
UHMWPE is what is used as the bearing surface for hip and knee replacements. It's pretty hard wearing stuff.
Are you familiar with the Craftsman 18" saw? I think it would benefit from a similar mod but there's no solid surface below the table to mount a block.
Like the packing tape tip on the insert plate, would be helpful.
Awesome fix. As usual.
Very clever John. I expect that you'll get good life from the UHMW, but if not, you could try using a sealed ball bearing pressing against the holder, similar to a bandsaw guide.
I'm wondering how much more stress limiting the pivoting motion of the blade fixtures (there's probably a better term out there) puts on the blade. You might end up breaking them much more frequently where the blade attaches = where the most flexing is going to be. I personally don't find the back-and-forth movement of the blade to be that much of an issue when it comes to accuracy if it's only about twice the size of the blade and I do a lot of small details.
If you understand what's actually happening, what you said makes no sense at all. The blade flopping back and forth is obviously flexing way more than a blade that is just going straight up and down.
I'm used to guys nitpicking what they perceive as "problems" with some of the stuff I do, but this is new territory.
:D okay, a bit more aggressive than I expected. Why do you imagine they even did the swiveling action in the first place? It's obviously to allow movement. Now you're limiting that movement and therefore creating stress. It's stress that transfers in to the blade.
I have the same Maximum saw. I have multiple issues with it. The pin that keeps that insert from turning has come loose a few times. The pin that holds the handle that adjusts the tension is always coming loose. The tenon that holds the table at the back rattles so I had to shim it.
How easy do you find it installing pinless blades? Drives me crazy.
Amazing that so many engineers miss little details while working on building these machines. My insert in my band saw does the same thing. Thanks for Sharing, as always this was helpful and most of all very cool.
As you were cutting your logo I noticed that the blade you were using was huge. I'd use that kind of blade for like a 2x4. For that thickness of wood I'd use a reverse tooth blade 2R, 3R or 5R would work a lot better. Happy cutting.
Nicely done!
Hello my friend .
Why dont you try to use a Spring to pull of the saw..
it could be more last and easy to install.
Regards from Monterrey Mexico.
hey John, what's the knob thing sticking out thats moving up and down as well on the top of the back bend?
I like your simple fix. I wonder if an upgrade to that would be a thrust bearing like on a bandsaw
Cam roller-lifter from an engine.
The outro song...KFC's new jingle perhaps?.
That's a great little hack.
That worked really well!
I use a vinyl tile on the top of my table as a zero clearance insert. It's cheap and helps the wood slide around.
Good fix - thanks for sharing.
What if you used a slotted hole in the plastic part? That way if the tip got worn down you could loosen the screws holding it to the maple piece and move it forward so it's contacting again.
Well done, nice fix!
Well done, BIG GRACIAS !! from Peru.
friend gave me a Ryobi scroll saw that had been sitting in his garage for ten years. He said he never ever turned it on. I used to to try to cut a pattern and the blade drifted all over the place. Is that a blade tension problem or something else?
Do you have any idea how to turn on an older mastercrap scroll saw?
Greetings, seems like a good fix. I'll give it a go. Thanks for sharing. pax
Great, simple and very effective solution. Engineering is a state of mind, and you're in it most of the time, it seems :)
Jigsaw need in the workshop!
I had the same issue with me Craftsmen, but mine was user error... wasn't tightening the blade nearly enough.
Nice fix John! Hope it continues to work well for you. I suspect an upcoming project which includes some scroll saw work?
Maybe :)
Nice fix, John. If you're like me, and seldom use the bench jig saw, the uhmw will last you forever.
hey man I know on my scroll saw that you need to turn the tension up on the blade and this will stop it from moving tighten the back handle by turning clockwise and then pushing down on the lever to lock it
No kidding? I'm so glad I have kind people to point out those tricky details to a new guy, like me.
thank you john great informative vidio
nice work
Nice. Was hoping this would help me with mine. I got an old one from my neighbor. It's so old it uses a reciprocating/spring mechanism. It works, but I don't think the return spring is powerful enough. And I need a more powerful motor. 1/12hp just barely cuts it. Pun intended.
I have the same problem. Potentially resolved.
Would a bearing work? Similar to the guide on a bandsaw, but not perpendicular to the blade. So you could apply force to the arm in the same manner, but the surface providing the pressure would roll with the motion of the arm.
Luxorcist I can't see why not. Good idea!
I can see why not - the back of the blade holder is not completely flat. Using a round bearing would probably make the problem worse.
rotation to linear in that configuration for the amount of up - down movement it has a back-forward movement on the blade. if the blade has a higher up/down movement the back /forward will be much higher. the thing that the blade attaches was built to have a little freedom on the blade and whole mechanism. what you did is to force the blade to run straight but that may stress other parts of the whole mechanism
Good video thanks for sharing !.
Very good ideal.
The more expensive scroll saws have an adjustment to make the blade track vertically, or tilt as this one did. The vertical tracking is excellent for fret work or thin stock. However, it is poor on thicker stock because the saw dust doesn’t clear as well and it is very slow. The tilting (almost elliptical) cut is more aggressive and clears the saw dust better. Your ‘fix,’ if it doesn’t damage the saw, would be of better use if it could be adjusted to permit varying amounts of tilt or the vertical only tracking. The lesser expensive saws will come as yours did because a vertical only cut would be only good for thin stock or fine cuts in thin stock. Owners would be frustrated and think the machine useless on thicker stock and therefore a ‘bad saw.’
Well done. I had to laugh at the end, I actually enjoy scrollsaw projects, and I have a few that I got for free... One of them is an old Delta, and that insert was doing the same thing. I didn't use packing tape, I used gaffing tape, but I got it perfect that way... For the 5 scrollsaw nerds out there, the Delta has a lot of power, runs real smooth, weighs a ton, and seems well built. Sadly, the blade changing-blade holding mechanism is so clumsy and so annoying, it'll drive you crazy on a big project....
Absolutely love the outro! Buy chicken!
Hi, John. Where can I listen to the whole fried chicken song that plays at the end? 9:46 It sounds like a really funny song. I tried to google it, but all I got were fried chicken recipes, some country music songs, and Queen.
Thanks John I have the exact saw from CTC. Maybe that is why I am not good at it (wink wink nudge nudge)
I will try your fix.
Great info.
Maybe your next upgrade could be a zero clerance insert plate??
I wonder if this is just a bad unit or a design flaw... either way, good fix! 🤓👍
Indeed. I never noticed this back and forth issue in the one I used at high school long time ago or the used one I picked up a month ago
Those step bits are so awesome!
But if you use the scroll saw for long time at once , doesn't the plastic start to melt?
How about wood dust coming down, and in between the UMHW plastic? The dust would _kind of_ be a lubricant...
I think.
UHMWPE (Ultra High Molecular Weight Poly Ethylene) isn't the same as regular plastic. It's a heck of a lot more resistant to wear and friction. It's also self-lubricating, so the simple act of the saw arm rubbing up and down against it should actually make it run smoother. Even though it has a relatively low melting point compared to other similar plastics (130-136°C/266-277°F), the super low-friction surface would mean that it likely won't ever get to that temperature at the point of contact with the saw arm.
At least that's what I'm getting from a the research I've done.
Rampe's Workshop I've held the stuff against a coarse sanding belt with no affect...
cigars and swarf Okay. i am not very familiar whit this material😕...yet
Exactly. We call this stuff "puckboard" and use it for a lot of different things in the boating industry. Also, I know of a lot of people who use this to replace the needle bearings in the front axles of 4X4s. If an axle rubbing on this isn't going to melt it, I highly doubt the blade rubbbing on it is going to melt it.
Good ol' Canada Post packing tape.
You're awesome
So is Canadian tire something like harbor freight?
I gave away my harbor freight scroll saw 5 years ago for the same problem, it was a cheap toy with zero precision
Princess Auto up here appears to be more similar to Harbor Freight. Canadian Tire used to be pretty good, before they went the dollar store route.
Michael Osmon Princess auto is the closest in terms of cheap tools , however their clamps and hardware selection is terrible. Peavey Mart carries the "harbor freight" cheap but decent clamps and their selection of fasteners is great.
Canadian tire is a unique store.
Canadian tire carries many of the same tools as both Harbor Freight and Princess Auto, typically branded as "MasterCraft". Their second house brand, Maximum, competes in quality with the likes of Ryobi or Kobalt, and the pricing is slightly less or on par with those brands.
Otherwise, Canadian Tire sells sporting goods, camping gear, clothing, seasonal/holiday items, auto accessories - that sort of thing. They also have some automotive services as the name implies, tire and lube sort of work.
Princess Auto is the equivalent of Harbor Freight, and carries the same low grade sort of stuff. That said Harbor Freight in the US has some exclusive items that are better than their typical stuff, that you can't get at Princess Auto. Those are few and far between though.
could you add the plastic bearing to the bottom of the insert
anthony hark I think it would be too high up and either not guide enough or end up knocking the plate up. just my guess
nice t-shirt
Install a small ball bearing instead of the plastic block. It is more stable