Beginner's Guide to Hand Painting Models: Part 3
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 มิ.ย. 2020
- 1. Daily Beetle by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommons.org/licenses/...)
Source: incompetech.com/music/royalty-...
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2. Skinny Leonard by Audionautix is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommons.org/licenses/...)
Artist: audionautix.com/
3. Cold Funk - Funkorama by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommons.org/licenses/...)
Source: incompetech.com/music/royalty-...
Artist: incompetech.com/
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Thanks for these great videos! They are inspiring me to restart with scale modeling after almost 30 years.
Same here... Unfortunately I lost all of my models 20 yrs ago when I moved into a new house. So now I'm restarting everything!
Great hand painting.Its definitely an art getting the paint to the right texture and applying the right amount of coats for the perfect finish 😊👍
Definitely going to be thinning my paint more. Looks good!
Thanks for the great videos! Beautiful work. I would never have tried hand painting but am now sold on it. Definitely a good tool to have in your kit, especially when you live in a hot climate and it allows you to do more work indoors. I’ve found Vallejo Air works well, either straight out of the bottle or with a few more drops of water added.
Amazing how there is still so much detail left after so many coats of pain! Thin paint is awesome.
Love the name :D I have found through experience that it is better to have multiple very thin layers of paint as this preserves details much better than 2 or 3 relatively thicker layers. Glad you liked the videos and thanks for watching :)
Thanks for the tips.
Wow..what great job...my issue is that l tend to rush just to see the end product...
Excellent videos. Thank you so much. Thinning paint is the way to go!
Glad the videos proved helpful. Thanks for watching :)
Really enjoying your videos, thank you.
Please make more of these thank you
Wa bhai, kia kamal ka coloring kia tum ne, very impressive.
Nice set of in depth vids, only issue is the brown was painted all over the upper surface with the green as camo. Then in the desert the green was over painted with mid-stone. I believe if you calculated the area of paint coverage the green was less. Love your patience and attention to detail.
Well done on some more great videos!
Many thanks!
DO NOT FIDDLE WITH THE PAINT AS IT DRIES!!!
Quick question: Would applying a primer for acrylic paints, especially for large surfaces like the one at 2:13 (first coat), improve adherence to the surface? Looks awfully "watery" to my untrained eye.
Great painting job. How do you prevent remaining color in the pallet/cans to dry, while waiting for previous coat to dry? And another thing i saw that you leave wheel housing on the wings to be painted last.Why didn't you paint that before painting downside of the wings as in that order there wouldn't be much color fixing afterwords.
Thanks
Once again very good indeed. I would like to see how to brush paint white or yellow, two very difficult colours.
I recently painted the underside of a spitfire white, it turned out okay. I probably applied 6 coats of thinned paint.
Awesome video!!! How do you incorporate the water into the paint as you go? Use pipettes, or just pick up the water with the brush and mix it into the paint ss dish? Ty.
Just ordered an Airfix 1/48 Mk 1 hurricane, trying to decide if I should try chipping and weathering or just leave it pristine
Fantastic set of videos, I really want to try your method. I might have missed it in the video but With so many coats of paint how do you prevent losing any detail on the model?
he mentioned earlier that he deepens some details with a saw/hobby knife to prevent them from disappearing when he sands.
Question: Are subsequent coats of paint thinned the same amount as the original coat?
I really like your work. It is a great alternative to airbrushing. Thanks for sharing. Also, Have you got brush solution for soft edge effects like those found on German WW2 aircraft?
Thanks you so much Cos. I have been trying to get a soft edge or feathered edge with brush, but so far not very successfully. I saw a video by PLASMO , where he used oil paints to get a soft edge, but I have not tried that yet.(you should check that out, it is the only video where anyone has had any success with soft feathered finish with a paint brush). I am working on it, let's see if I meet with any success :)
@@scalemodellingmadness4114 Have you tried putting a drop of glycerine in the solution - water-colourists use it to diffuse an edge.
Hi, that's a very nice paint job. Could you share how long did you allow the paint the dry in-between coats?
Hi. Im waiting 20 to 40 min for acrylic paints. I think about 30 min is enough. And about 1 hour to varnish dry but for last layer its good to dry it for 24hr . For primer im waiting for 10 to 20 min.
Can I suggest a list for this and the 1/72 P-47 builds tools and supplies?
how do you paint front of the wing so colours from lower and upper part of the wing make some kind of nice line?
Have you tried putting the plastic parts in soapy/vinegar water before building it? It’s suppose to help the paint spread better and not make it so hard to stick. Thanks for the awesome video!
Hey Henry....thank you for watching. It is advisable to clean kits with soapy water before working on them. This is particularly true for older kits which tend to have a lot of residue from the molding process on them. Apart from this, you must wipe clean the kit with alcohol just before painting. If you don't have alcohol then use a cloth or paper towel moistened with soapy water and then another wipe with just water. This will clean up any dirt, oil etc. from the surface before you paint it :)
Hi, is the Mr Hobby varnish an acrylic or enamel varnish? Love the videos, these hand painting ones are especially helpful as I am just starting out in the hobby.
I believe it is lacquer based....I think, since most of Mr Hobby range is lacquer. The thing to keep in mind is that this spray does not work with all paints (including some Mr. Hobby paints, despite claims to the contrary) so make sure you test this spray varnish on spare plastic before using it. Also, it is very aggressive so do not touch the surface after applying it else you will leave a finger prints and smudge the surface.
Excuse me, is it painted in many layers and the color doesn't cover the model's pattern?
I'm all for thinning the paint when brush painting, but I'd never put it on bare plastic. Have you tried using a primer coat first? You could maybe get the job done with two or three coats of paint rather than six. Nice restful video though! :-)
Did you wash the plastic? The patchiness in your first layer seem to me like it is because there is some fat/grease on the plastic surface. I'm often rinsing all parts in warm water with some dishing soap before cutting anything loose.
Anyway, great job!!!
Thanks Simon. If I am using an old kit, I do sometimes wash it. But these days I just give the kit a good wipe down with alcohol to get rid of any residue or oils. In this case the patchiness comes from making the paint very thin.
will this work with Vallejo game color
Why finish a military aircraft in gloss varnish? I can see that matte may be too dead looking, but why not satin? Great videos! I have been getting back into plastic modeling in a small way as a break between wooden sailing ships, but I want to take my skills to a mature level. These help.
I am sure I finished with matt varnish. I always do. Gloss is too glossy and matt/satin make the kit look better. I am sorry if I have not mentioned it in this video. But I do end all kits with a matt varnish. BTW this is the third video in the series, there is one more, so perhaps its at the end of that one. Thanks for watching.
At 20:21 you show a spray can of varnish marked "Gloss" and definitely say you are protecting it with a coat of glass varnish! At about 0:35 of the next, fourth, video once again you state that you used gloss varnish. But I have finished video 4 and you do eventually cover all with a matte varnish. So is the gloss just an intermediate finish after the decals? Anyway, your work is masterful. little details like the empty bullet casing ports really suggest the real thing. So many master Modelers seem to over do the washes, giving unrealistic shading but you do not.
@@timmorrison4117 Ok...I see what the confusion is. So, during the build I use gloss varnish for two reasons, other than just protecting the paint. Firstly, due to the smooth finish any wash that I apply runs nicely in the panel lines and the rivets, but does not grip to the surface making it hard to remove. Secondly, decals sit better on a smooth gloss surface than a matt one. If the surface below the decal is relatively rough, one gets what is known as the silvering effect, i.e. the decal and particularly the carrier film turns white. That is why I use gloss during the build. When everything is in its place, in the end of the build, I finally apply matt or satin varnish. Hope that helps :)
That makes sense and I learned something further
Thank you
Hi! I was wondering, where can you purchase the Vallejo duck-egg green? I can’t find it anywhere!
I bought it from my local hobby shop. It is available on hobby link japan...hlj.com. unfortunately I just checked for you, its out of stock.
www.hlj.com/71180-allied-forces-wwii-vlj71180
i will keep an eye out for it. should not be hard to find. just keep in mind sometimes it may be a part of an RAF battle of Britain set.
Scale Modelling Madness Thanks for checking for me! I guess I’ll have to put off my hurricane kit until I can find some in stock. Your hand painting videos are a big help for me, keep up the great work!
@@zacc58 You can try to find Humbrol 90 acrylic paint . that is the same color.
Tasic Vladimir Thanks for the tip! Just purchased a bottle.
how do you prevent the diluted paint from pooling at the edge, while drying?
pick it up with a dry brush 13:23
@@FiveLiver ah, totally missed that one. Thanks
you know of any disadvantages or advantages to using enamel paint? Those are are more readily available but a pain to clean
It's a little hard hand painting with enamel paints. Mainly because they dry really quickly and start forming threads and such like. They are an excellent choice for air brushing, but I don't think they are great for hand painting. Having said that, it is possible to hand paint with them and get good results. Its just that you will have keep a very sharp eye on the paint dilution and keep correcting every few minutes :)
Scale Modelling Madness I see that u get some excellent results with handpainting acrylic so I’ll have to invest in some down the road (maybe after my current build) Don’t think I’m quite ready for an airbrush yet. Is it wise to an acrylic wash on enamel?
@@scalemodellingmadness4114 I think you are confusing enamels with lacquers. Enamels are easy to thin and brush paint well but take hours to dry.
Good job, especially considering the paint you used is not exactly suitable for brush painting. Revell Aqua would have made the job much easier and less layers would have been required (2 are usually just fine).
enamel paint power ,lol Tamiya is best to use,lol
Sir hi, don`t you apply the lightest color first i.e. Earth Brown ???
Always apply base color first.
Earth Brown was the base colour applied in real life, it is more opaque than the green. In the desert the green was over painted with mid-stone.
Are you skipping priming entirely? Does it not have any adverse effects if you paint directly on plastic?
While hand painting I avoid using primer as it just builds up more layers of paint. However, if I am using different types of material (like PE or resin) or if the kit has been sanded a lot, in such cases I do use a primer.
@@scalemodellingmadness4114 thanks a lot! You may have just saved my first aircraft model from a bad paint job!
Man I suck at painting compared to him.