I will do this test with my e-up! from 2015 and almost 100k km on the ODO soon. These are good tests, second hand EVs are becoming more and more relevant
Very interesting and I would like to see degradation on LFP after 200000km ;-). And also on Kia ev6 after few years. We will have to wait for those ;-). Or perhaps taxis or heavy driving people ;-)
Bjorn, thank you very much! This videos about used EV is very helpful! There is no other to be found on TH-cam. I'm about to buy e-golf 2019 or 2020 and this really helps a lot!
Limiting the charging level on an e-Golf is simple. Just set “minimum charge level” to less than 100% in the car settings. When plugged in the car will then only charge if it is below that level. The scheduled charge sessions will allow you to override this limit (you can specify the limit for each schedule entry). Once you understand how it works it’s actually quite a nice way to manage things for daily use.
Same here, did the exact same thing when I had an e-Golf many years ago. Had the scheduled charging set to a time when the car usually was not connected to a charger, or would be used shortly after. I basically charged over 90% only for longer trips.
Very useful, thank you. My family is looking to purchase a used E-Golf as a secondary vehicle and you providing real world driving data on higher km variants has been great.
the id.3 is the better vehicle, better chassis, quieter, more space, loads reliably faster, significantly better range, significantly better tracking, the turning circle is smaller .. Current software is clearly superior. I have both.
Since you are doing this type of degradation tests more often it would be interesting if every owner could tell you witch is the predominant type of charging cicle during the time of ownership so you can add that info into the spreadsheet and try to cross-link patterns of charging and degradation.
These tests are very interesting. And they might also be very helpfull to shut up the EV critics that claim you can throw away the battery after a couple of years. The more data the better :)
The net capacity of this series of e-Golf is 21,2 kWh from 24 kWh gross, according to manufacturers data. You can also set SoC levels e.g. 80% for daily charging. But I do understand your logic of extractable energy.
Testing a Leaf 30/40 would be great as they are quite plentiful in the used market, and an option that many people will be looking at for a used commuter EV.
5:53 the price difference between golf and model s is massive. If BMW 5 series would be as noisy as Golf, you would also say the BMW is "shit" while it would be perfectly fine for "people's car".
The top buffer could be used for recuperation. If you have more than 95% charge of battery and recuperation is powerful in the hundreds of kilowatts. You have to manage the current and the heat.
My experience with Michelin Energy Savers is such that they are (or eventually become) very noisy on coarse asphalt. Better avoid them if you care for comfort. That being said, e-Golf could use more soundproofing material in the back of the car.
@@bjornnyland you set departure time for every day, and one of the option is charging percentage and time for charging (during night is cheaper) so i have settings that it will start at 10PM, with 10A charging, to 80% without air condition... you can see here, it is in croatian, but you will get it th-cam.com/video/mjvlRdUpuEQ/w-d-xo.html
@@stajpi I bought an old eGolf 2015 and I am able to set the limit only via we connect app. When I tap on the e-manager icon the car shows "this function is not available ať the moment". I do not why. I apreciate any advice. Thanks.
Degradation is one interesting topic. Next thing is how expensive a battery replacement would be. Gruber Motors stated in a recent video USD22k for a Model S 85 which sound fair but I asked Tesla Australia for a quote, reply was ....(I cannot tell you, I want to preserve my free lifetime SuC). (Nerfed) Tesla 85's have a very low degradation but 90's have almost double the degradation, due to much higher max cell voltages (=Nerfing not a bad thing after all?). Golden rule: Stay away from 100 and 0, never go near those values. BTW: Love the Kempower App.
Hello Björn, verry thanks for your super Car - Test`s. I lookt yesterday for a new MG 5. Pleace test this new version 2022. In Germany this Car is so new and i was verry Impresst from your Test (the old Version) in Thailand.
*cough leaf cough*... but one can really forgive them since it was so early, and had a somewhat reasonable price. Still, they should have liquid cooled the batteries, they really should.
I have a 2018 MK7 e-golf with bigger battery. This car has an (awkward) app and screen menu to select the percentage charge and departure time. This allows me to charge my car typically to 90% just before my planned departure. I almost never charge to 100%. I live in The Netherlands, otherwise I would find it interesting to let you check out my car's battery. The car already has over 160000km on the odometer. (Maybe someday I'll drive it to beautiful Norway...) My guess is that I have only about 8% degradation of the battery based on the change I seem to see in the car's reported range: decline of 20km/240km original range (perhaps actually more like 220km).
Hallo Bjørn. Should you not do a proper bms calibration before a degredation test? I think you are relaying quite a lot on the percentages from the bms. What if 100% is actually 97 What if 3% is actually 6 It changes the result a lot. Thanks for all your videos. I try to watch them all.
@Bjørn Nyland any chance for an extra column? Degradation % every 10,000km? eGolf 2016 47k km vs eGolf 2015 115k km both degrading at about 1.4% per 10,000km
Could be misleading. Depends on how car has been charged over the years. Lots of DC or mostly home with AC. And how often the battery sits at near 100%
I tried to do this for Nissan leaf. I spent ages collecting data (ages, charges, distance on odo, etc) and tried to fit a model to it. Worked out OK but was never that confident in the data collected because it was just posts from speakEV and the like. Better to actually test it and collect a good vehicle history.
The E-golf actually displays the degradation when it is fully charged (kind of). You get the Range displayed at startup and this should be 190km from factory (more like it is advertised as that). That one shows 162km at startup. So exactly 85% of the original Value. Pretty simple
Interested to see Zoe 22 & 40 if possible. Important to ensure that the 22 has the BMS update. I'm seeing only a small loss of usable kWh (per canZE) on my Zoe 22 (7yo 62K km). I haven't done a 100 to 0% (or close) test on it recently though but will do maybe next month.
@@bjornnyland see under location settings. You can set minimum charge in e manager, and max limit in location. Welcome to visit me in Kungsbacka on one of your test drives and I can show you. I know because I use these settings in my e golf.
This is very usefull, thanks B. I‘m maybe want to buy a second hand egolf as a second Car for my wife to Go to work. Would you recommend to make the Test when test driving a egolf i want to buy?
I think loudness isn't so much a function of age as I had a 90s Mercedes that was (subjectively) pretty quiet compared to newer Mazdas, Subarus, etc. Just that it costs more, etc. But of course technology does get cheaper too
Tire noise is mostly influenced by hardness of the connection to the road, i.e bushings, springs and tires themselves. Generally, much older cars had softer, narrower tires, softer suspension and bushings which is advantageous.
Good explanation about battery capacity stuff! But whatsup with e-Up?? It gives only about 29 kWh from battery even new, although VW claims it to be 32 net. Isn't 10% a bit too much for battery internal losses? If someone has got closer to 32, please comment!
"It's not healthy for the battery to stay at 100% too long" yes, that's true, but much of the degradation already occurs during charging to 100%, no matter how long you stay there afterwards (two different degradation mechanisms). When you charge, you take Lithium Ions out of the cathode. LFP cathodes can be emptied completely and still be stable but conventional cathodes change crystal structure as you take out more and more Li+. If you take out all of it, the battery will even catch fire, but of course the battery manufacturer designs it so this cannot happen unless you massively overcharge. However, the structure starts changing significantly before you reach 100% and this mechanically degrades the battery.
@Bjørn Nyland, can you find and test battery degradation of Hyundai Ionic classic one 28kwh ? Those two looks very good for city and short trips and they are similarly priced on second hand ev market.
i have the same year model but mine got 10km more range at max. i guess the degradation is pretty good. i'd guess that at 200k the car will lose 30km range at max so around 130 at max. thats actually pretty good for a car thats well over 10 years by then
One of the reasons I wont be buying a secondhand ev is because I'd have no idea of the state of the battery. Evs should collect charging cycle data etc and make this easier for owners/buyers to see the condition of the battery. That they dont do this suggests that they feared problems with battery longevity and don't want to make it known to ev owners. Hopefully in time more manufacturers will have the confidence to be more transparent.
This car is basicaly impossible to sell and use after 7 years. The car has 100km range, and even much less if we would go 130km/h. I just looked up the Golfs from around 2017 and they are sold for around 11000€, with about 110 000kms on the odometr. The car has to be recycled, which will not be possible almost at all, for what. Literally could buy Dacia Sandero from the same ear, with 0.9Tce for 6000€, have range of 800kms and basically no issues on the service.
What range does the vehicle show when you turn it on and is this accurate? Coincidentally there is a 2017 eGolf with 205,000 km for sale in my local market in Canada.
@@jonathanlamers7153 Hi, i depends how did you drive before you charge it. On some average drive and then fully charged it showing from 230-270km. EGolf always shows more than you can actually really drive. I have now 217.000km and with a full battery in outside temperature around 20*C and some average speed 60-70km/h I can do from 150-180km on one charge. Now when temperatures will go down and once around 0 this will drop to 120-150km. If Im talking for my car till now nothing was wrong with car itself ( except i needed to change suspension in frond and I will have to do it on the back too), battery did not loose alot in 5 years of use, I would guess around 10% capacity. Decision will be yours. Hope my answers did help. Regards from 🇸🇮
Very good new topic. Try to perform a test based on two cars with a new and degraded battery. What is the real impact of degradation if we go together on a longer route, say 400-500 km. This will allow you to confirm or refute the thesis that cars with a degraded battery cannot be driven.
What? Isnt this test easy enough to understand? The percentage of degradation is the same as percentage range lost, since the cars energy source is exclusively the battery...
I am surprised that e-golf doesn't have charge limit! Do later ones with bigger battery have? What about e-up, does it have charge limit? I consider buying one.
@@ericmentzel5278 I bought an old eGolf 2015 and I am able to set the limit only via we connect app. When I tap on the e-manager icon the car shows "this function is not available ať the moment". I do not why. I apreciate any advice. Thanks.
I feel like battery life will have to improve some more if the masses are going to adopt more EVs. In the world I live in with people in my economic class in America we would consider a 7 year old car with only 70k miles to be not old at all and if you buy such car you would expect it to last you around 10 years with normal driving but if you have to deal with 80-70-to 60% battery life as the car ages more I don't know how if people like me are going to want to deal with that.
Seems like going for used Model S is the best choice if you care about degradation. It's a shame they are still a bit too expensive for most people. In Sweden a used Tesla Model S 85 from 2013 sells at best for roughly half the price of a new Model 3 Long Range. The first all wheel drive Model S from 2015 are at best roughly 3/4th of the price of a new Model 3 Long Range.
@@bjornnyland do you always check consumption numbers vs what actually goes into the battery? I haven't heard you mention it and I think you should if you do the checking. At least I think it is intersting to know that the numbers that show on the display actually correspond to reality. On fossil the numbers are often way optimistic.
@@tusharnayyer951 it supposedly really slows down after that intial drop. Will need some more time and data to confirm. I can see from solar off grid thats true the lfp degredation is superior to anything else in the long run.
@@AsekiBekovy it's even worse i just charged to 100% and 73650kWh is brutto max and 68300kWh is netto usable left... so more than 10% degredation we are switching to a model y (best would be LFP)
I have a 2015 eGolf. I am interested to find out my battery percentage to see if it is still within warranty spec at 75,000 miles. I’ve watched the whole video and don’t see the “test” part or if there is a “calculation” of battery health. At what part of the video do you calculate your cars overall battery health? Is it the number of kWh charged after driving divided by then 24 kWh battery capacity? Seems to be but there’s no quick and dirty step 1,2,3 explanation.
The degradation curves are not linear, the first few percent generally show up in the first 100-150,000km, after that the curve flattens up around the 92 to 94 percent range usually, then stays around there past 250,000km and beyond. You can look up Steinbuch's work for some good statistical degradation data breakdowns online, though you may need to convert the miles to km.
Yes, unless it's LFP (iron based) chemistry, those don't mind 100 percent. Otherwise it's recommended to stay in the 80 percent range unless going on a long trip. A few 100 percent charges are fine, no big deal. But doing it daily is not ideal.
@@AllanSustainabilityFan Unfortunately LFPs are prone to battery degradation as well. Mine already lost 10kms range after just 2200kms. Although Tesla recommends charging atleast once a week at 100%, I think daily 100% charging is detrimental.
@@tusharnayyer951 It could just be initial degradation that then levels off, hard to know without more data: The NMC/NCMA chemistry - used in the longer range models - typically starts with a relatively steep degradation curve, but then that flattens up when it gets down to around 92-94 percent original range, which is generally after roughly 100-150k kilometers. It then takes many hundreds of thousands of kilometers before it ever goes under 85 percent degradation after that point. In theory LFP should have about three times the number of cycles of the NMC/NCMA chemistries. I would not be surprised if this turns out to be a 1.0 - 1.6 million kilometer battery. I have not seen anyone do a similar long-term test on the LFP ones yet though, so that's yet to be confirmed or dis-proven, but we'll see soon I guess. (Source: Steinbuch's degradation data based on around 20k Tesla vehicles iirc)
@@AllanSustainabilityFan I am hoping thats the case. Anecdotal reports on Tesla forums suggests to limit the charging to 80% even for LFP as Tesla recommendation is mostly to maintain BMS calibration for LFPs.
How to contact Bjørn if I have an interesting car? I have a Citroën C-zero 2012. It has all the bars, and claims around 100 km of range without heating etc. Edit: and I am working at Furuset.
VW were doing wrong for quite some time. Instead of extra buttons/ functions/ tech, they should've focused on the battery and range of the car. No wonder they are close to kaput
I will do this test with my e-up! from 2015 and almost 100k km on the ODO soon. These are good tests, second hand EVs are becoming more and more relevant
I had one from 2014 with 150000km. It was still going strong.
Thank you again for these degradation tests. For the many who will buy secondhand these are invaluable.
It would be great if Nassir also could inspect the old ev’s. Rust, brakes and other problems :)
Very interesting and I would like to see degradation on LFP after 200000km ;-). And also on Kia ev6 after few years. We will have to wait for those ;-). Or perhaps taxis or heavy driving people ;-)
These videos on battery degradation are really interesting, especially in view of a second-hand market that is gradually increasing.
Bjorn, thank you very much! This videos about used EV is very helpful! There is no other to be found on TH-cam. I'm about to buy e-golf 2019 or 2020 and this really helps a lot!
Limiting the charging level on an e-Golf is simple. Just set “minimum charge level” to less than 100% in the car settings. When plugged in the car will then only charge if it is below that level.
The scheduled charge sessions will allow you to override this limit (you can specify the limit for each schedule entry). Once you understand how it works it’s actually quite a nice way to manage things for daily use.
Exactly. I do this everyday. Works perfect.
GTE Hybrid is the same.
Clunky as hell from a Ui perspective, but yea
Same here, did the exact same thing when I had an e-Golf many years ago. Had the scheduled charging set to a time when the car usually was not connected to a charger, or would be used shortly after. I basically charged over 90% only for longer trips.
Very useful, thank you. My family is looking to purchase a used E-Golf as a secondary vehicle and you providing real world driving data on higher km variants has been great.
It would be great to see another classic ioniq degradation test and the renault zoe with different battery sizes.
Could you do the original ioniq again? Maybe with a car that is 5 or 6 years old. Or maybe do it next year with a 7 years old… thanks 🙏🏼 😊
I loved my e-Golf. I still cannot decide if it has a better ride than my ID.3.
Is the interior a big difference?
@@JLGBinken yes, in the Golf it is much higher quality in terms of materials.
the id.3 is the better vehicle, better chassis, quieter, more space, loads reliably faster, significantly better range, significantly better tracking, the turning circle is smaller .. Current software is clearly superior.
I have both.
That was ninja fast you found a older and higher mileage e-Golf!
Thanks for the tests and for responding to my request! Also thanks for the proper nickname to the ix.
Since you are doing this type of degradation tests more often it would be interesting if every owner could tell you witch is the predominant type of charging cicle during the time of ownership so you can add that info into the spreadsheet and try to cross-link patterns of charging and degradation.
That would be great
I find these tests very interesting. Thank you.
good info bjørn! good to compare to my 2015 24kWh LEAF also with 116.000 km!
These tests are very interesting. And they might also be very helpfull to shut up the EV critics that claim you can throw away the battery after a couple of years. The more data the better :)
Well me personally I don't consider this vehicle to be that old so I wouldn't consider 15% degradation to be good.
The net capacity of this series of e-Golf is 21,2 kWh from 24 kWh gross, according to manufacturers data. You can also set SoC levels e.g. 80% for daily charging. But I do understand your logic of extractable energy.
Testing a Leaf 30/40 would be great as they are quite plentiful in the used market, and an option that many people will be looking at for a used commuter EV.
A old Zoe would be extremely interesting as well.
LEAF 24 kWh with the lizard battery would be interesting also. So a 2014+ if you could, please. They had 21.5 kWh when new.
This a very great topic!
Wish you were in the Netherlands, so you could test my classic Ioniq 28 kwh!
5:53 the price difference between golf and model s is massive. If BMW 5 series would be as noisy as Golf, you would also say the BMW is "shit" while it would be perfectly fine for "people's car".
Tesla doesn't have an armrest in the back seat. Vw e golf does.
Keep up doing this series. The soul vs golf clinch is really interesting. I dont think the final Word about it has been said.
The top buffer could be used for recuperation. If you have more than 95% charge of battery and recuperation is powerful in the hundreds of kilowatts. You have to manage the current and the heat.
as always Bjorn a informative and interesting video, keep them coming :)
My experience with Michelin Energy Savers is such that they are (or eventually become) very noisy on coarse asphalt. Better avoid them if you care for comfort. That being said, e-Golf could use more soundproofing material in the back of the car.
You have to test a classic Ioniq with high mileage. That would be interesting.
150k km coming soon
@@bjornnyland Cool, thanks Bjorn :)
Please test degradation in i-Miev and VW e-UP (CarScanner works in triplets and e-UP).
You can set max charge, and it works ok. I have two settings, one for 80% and one for 100%, they both work without any problems.
How do you set it then?
@@bjornnyland you set departure time for every day, and one of the option is charging percentage and time for charging (during night is cheaper) so i have settings that it will start at 10PM, with 10A charging, to 80% without air condition... you can see here, it is in croatian, but you will get it th-cam.com/video/mjvlRdUpuEQ/w-d-xo.html
@@stajpi I bought an old eGolf 2015 and I am able to set the limit only via we connect app. When I tap on the e-manager icon the car shows "this function is not available ať the moment". I do not why. I apreciate any advice. Thanks.
@@bretimir2 i dont know about that... Sorry... Can you make video?
Evnotify only works with the facelift e-golf. But car scanner should work with the older one
He did put that on a caption on that says that
1:32
Sorry, had it running in the background and couldn't see the caption 😅
Would love to see you do this degradation test with a high milage classic Ioniq :D
This is really relevant test. Thank you
Degradation is one interesting topic. Next thing is how expensive a battery replacement would be. Gruber Motors stated in a recent video USD22k for a Model S 85 which sound fair but I asked Tesla Australia for a quote, reply was ....(I cannot tell you, I want to preserve my free lifetime SuC). (Nerfed) Tesla 85's have a very low degradation but 90's have almost double the degradation, due to much higher max cell voltages (=Nerfing not a bad thing after all?). Golden rule: Stay away from 100 and 0, never go near those values. BTW: Love the Kempower App.
Great job Bjorn, as usual! It would be interesting to test a 35,8 kWh E-golf, as it's got a different battery (Samsung), Don't you think?? Thanks!
Hello Björn, verry thanks for your super Car - Test`s. I lookt yesterday for a new MG 5.
Pleace test this new version 2022. In Germany this Car is so new and i was verry
Impresst from your Test (the old Version) in Thailand.
For a first gen product it's not bad at all. We've seen worse attempts, like the Kia e-Soul.
Kia Soul EV or kia e-Soul? Because e -Soul it is the name of the 2nd generation 2019+ only
@@etienned2354 the first gen Soul EV.
*cough leaf cough*... but one can really forgive them since it was so early, and had a somewhat reasonable price. Still, they should have liquid cooled the batteries, they really should.
Test some high mileage ZOE 40, or 50 if available.
I am looking forward to the first Tesla M3 LFP degradation video!
I have a 2018 MK7 e-golf with bigger battery. This car has an (awkward) app and screen menu to select the percentage charge and departure time. This allows me to charge my car typically to 90% just before my planned departure. I almost never charge to 100%. I live in The Netherlands, otherwise I would find it interesting to let you check out my car's battery. The car already has over 160000km on the odometer. (Maybe someday I'll drive it to beautiful Norway...) My guess is that I have only about 8% degradation of the battery based on the change I seem to see in the car's reported range: decline of 20km/240km original range (perhaps actually more like 220km).
Hallo Bjørn.
Should you not do a proper bms calibration before a degredation test?
I think you are relaying quite a lot on the percentages from the bms.
What if 100% is actually 97
What if 3% is actually 6
It changes the result a lot.
Thanks for all your videos. I try to watch them all.
Learning a lot from these videos.
Looking at this chart, my M3 Perf at 50,000 miles should have about 8% deg.
Maybe I should test it.
@Bjørn Nyland any chance for an extra column? Degradation % every 10,000km? eGolf 2016 47k km vs eGolf 2015 115k km both degrading at about 1.4% per 10,000km
Could be misleading. Depends on how car has been charged over the years. Lots of DC or mostly home with AC. And how often the battery sits at near 100%
@@Gazer75 True, but the eGolfs on the list are degrading at the same rate
These days Bjørn is out, Golfing for the win 😊
I tried to do this for Nissan leaf. I spent ages collecting data (ages, charges, distance on odo, etc) and tried to fit a model to it. Worked out OK but was never that confident in the data collected because it was just posts from speakEV and the like. Better to actually test it and collect a good vehicle history.
The E-golf actually displays the degradation when it is fully charged (kind of). You get the Range displayed at startup and this should be 190km from factory (more like it is advertised as that). That one shows 162km at startup. So exactly 85% of the original Value. Pretty simple
Interested to see Zoe 22 & 40 if possible. Important to ensure that the 22 has the BMS update.
I'm seeing only a small loss of usable kWh (per canZE) on my Zoe 22 (7yo 62K km). I haven't done a 100 to 0% (or close) test on it recently though but will do maybe next month.
Very good video, thanks!
Bjørn, do you want to test Merc 250e 2015 110.000km?☺️
Would love to see a degradation test with a fat e-tron which has done a lot of fast charging. How are these batteries holding up?
Hey! have an e-golf 2015 with 136K on it, and living in Oslo. Let me know if you to test it.
Please test degradation on a e208 or e2008!!
Hopefully you can do this on a ioniq 16/17 as well
Check the e manager. There you can configure charging limit for 2018 e-golf. Maybe it is there for 2015 as well.
That's not charge limit.
@@bjornnyland see under location settings. You can set minimum charge in e manager, and max limit in location. Welcome to visit me in Kungsbacka on one of your test drives and I can show you. I know because I use these settings in my e golf.
This is very usefull, thanks B. I‘m maybe want to buy a second hand egolf as a second Car for my wife to Go to work. Would you recommend to make the Test when test driving a egolf i want to buy?
Great videos!
Almost 1.5% battery degradation every 10,000 km for the first 100,000km , not bad. 115,000km is a new car to most people though,
Wonder what my EQA is degraded now after about a year and 90.000km.. hmm
@@ulf5738 Yep it is :) It's my job ;)
I think loudness isn't so much a function of age as I had a 90s Mercedes that was (subjectively) pretty quiet compared to newer Mazdas, Subarus, etc. Just that it costs more, etc. But of course technology does get cheaper too
Tire noise is mostly influenced by hardness of the connection to the road, i.e bushings, springs and tires themselves. Generally, much older cars had softer, narrower tires, softer suspension and bushings which is advantageous.
My question - how can a buyer check there actual degradation before they purchase?
My Tesla 3 long Range 2019 have driven 173000 km
Good explanation about battery capacity stuff! But whatsup with e-Up?? It gives only about 29 kWh from battery even new, although VW claims it to be 32 net. Isn't 10% a bit too much for battery internal losses? If someone has got closer to 32, please comment!
"It's not healthy for the battery to stay at 100% too long"
yes, that's true, but much of the degradation already occurs during charging to 100%, no matter how long you stay there afterwards (two different degradation mechanisms).
When you charge, you take Lithium Ions out of the cathode. LFP cathodes can be emptied completely and still be stable but conventional cathodes change crystal structure as you take out more and more Li+. If you take out all of it, the battery will even catch fire, but of course the battery manufacturer designs it so this cannot happen unless you massively overcharge.
However, the structure starts changing significantly before you reach 100% and this mechanically degrades the battery.
Juicy stuff 👍
@Bjørn Nyland, can you find and test battery degradation of Hyundai Ionic classic one 28kwh ? Those two looks very good for city and short trips and they are similarly priced on second hand ev market.
There is one tested on Bjørn’s list. At 90000 km. It does very well with just 3% degradation.
@@constructioneerful Yes, I know, but time passes. I wonder which car ages faster, which battery degrades less.
Hei Bjørn.
Jeg har en 2018 Leaf 40kWh som har gått 60k, om du er interessert i å teste?
If you'd have dinner ownership experience amount with it. Best video
i have the same year model but mine got 10km more range at max. i guess the degradation is pretty good. i'd guess that at 200k the car will lose 30km range at max so around 130 at max. thats actually pretty good for a car thats well over 10 years by then
will NIO house in Oslo give you the ET7 to test out?
One of the reasons I wont be buying a secondhand ev is because I'd have no idea of the state of the battery. Evs should collect charging cycle data etc and make this easier for owners/buyers to see the condition of the battery. That they dont do this suggests that they feared problems with battery longevity and don't want to make it known to ev owners. Hopefully in time more manufacturers will have the confidence to be more transparent.
Disse degradation-videoene er veldig interessante!
Edit: Håper det kommer en ny test på eldre Ioniq etterhvert
Many thanks
Maybe visit a battery replacement mechanic to see how much it cost and how long it takes to replace the battery?
Cheers
This car is basicaly impossible to sell and use after 7 years. The car has 100km range, and even much less if we would go 130km/h. I just looked up the Golfs from around 2017 and they are sold for around 11000€, with about 110 000kms on the odometr. The car has to be recycled, which will not be possible almost at all, for what. Literally could buy Dacia Sandero from the same ear, with 0.9Tce for 6000€, have range of 800kms and basically no issues on the service.
But, but EV's are all about the climate and environment. We are saving mother earth when we choose to buy an EV. Right? right?
Yes, VW are really bad at inovation.
E golf has a charge limit, you can set it to 80%,its a bit hard to find 😀
VW UX design
Bjorn if you will be again soon on road trip to Slovenia/Croatia you can test my eGolf, 2017, 36kwh, currently 205.000km 😀
What range does the vehicle show when you turn it on and is this accurate? Coincidentally there is a 2017 eGolf with 205,000 km for sale in my local market in Canada.
@@jonathanlamers7153 Hi, i depends how did you drive before you charge it. On some average drive and then fully charged it showing from 230-270km. EGolf always shows more than you can actually really drive.
I have now 217.000km and with a full battery in outside temperature around 20*C and some average speed 60-70km/h I can do from 150-180km on one charge. Now when temperatures will go down and once around 0 this will drop to 120-150km.
If Im talking for my car till now nothing was wrong with car itself ( except i needed to change suspension in frond and I will have to do it on the back too), battery did not loose alot in 5 years of use, I would guess around 10% capacity. Decision will be yours.
Hope my answers did help. Regards from 🇸🇮
Hei Bjørn, jeg har en 2017 modell X, 85k km . Gidder du teste batteriet til denne bilen? Jeg kan levere til deg, bor på Lambertseter. På forhånd takk!
More! More used car testing Bjørn 😉
Very good new topic. Try to perform a test based on two cars with a new and degraded battery. What is the real impact of degradation if we go together on a longer route, say 400-500 km. This will allow you to confirm or refute the thesis that cars with a degraded battery cannot be driven.
What? Isnt this test easy enough to understand? The percentage of degradation is the same as percentage range lost, since the cars energy source is exclusively the battery...
Dozens of thousands of Leaf drivers with 70% or less left refute the thesis every day 😂
I am surprised that e-golf doesn't have charge limit! Do later ones with bigger battery have? What about e-up, does it have charge limit? I consider buying one.
Both cars have a charge limit
@@ericmentzel5278 I bought an old eGolf 2015 and I am able to set the limit only via we connect app. When I tap on the e-manager icon the car shows "this function is not available ať the moment". I do not why. I apreciate any advice. Thanks.
Is there a way to get the information for the battery's number of cycles?
I feel like battery life will have to improve some more if the masses are going to adopt more EVs. In the world I live in with people in my economic class in America we would consider a 7 year old car with only 70k miles to be not old at all and if you buy such car you would expect it to last you around 10 years with normal driving but if you have to deal with 80-70-to 60% battery life as the car ages more I don't know how if people like me are going to want to deal with that.
Seems like going for used Model S is the best choice if you care about degradation. It's a shame they are still a bit too expensive for most people. In Sweden a used Tesla Model S 85 from 2013 sells at best for roughly half the price of a new Model 3 Long Range. The first all wheel drive Model S from 2015 are at best roughly 3/4th of the price of a new Model 3 Long Range.
What if the consumption numbers aren't correct, wouldn't that change the calculation quite a lot?
I can check against kWh delivered from fast charger.
@@bjornnyland do you always check consumption numbers vs what actually goes into the battery? I haven't heard you mention it and I think you should if you do the checking. At least I think it is intersting to know that the numbers that show on the display actually correspond to reality. On fossil the numbers are often way optimistic.
Cant wait for the model 3 LFP degradation results which should start to trickle in
Mine is already degrading. Lost 10 kms @2200 kms . Lfp is no different it seems
@@tusharnayyer951 it supposedly really slows down after that intial drop. Will need some more time and data to confirm. I can see from solar off grid thats true the lfp degredation is superior to anything else in the long run.
ZOE 4 the win ! 😁
How does the SoH from Car Scanner compare with your tests Bjorn?
Don't trust SoH. It's all over the place.
My Skoda Enyaq iV 80 with 60kkm and 12 months age is now at 7-8% degradation
Whats the usable kWh when new with the 82kWh MEB battery?
76,6
@@AsekiBekovy it's even worse i just charged to 100% and 73650kWh is brutto max and 68300kWh is netto usable left... so more than 10% degredation we are switching to a model y (best would be LFP)
@@steinmar2 strange. seems like a defect
@@AsekiBekovy yeah but under warranty is only if i drop below 70% SoH which i won't await
Please do classic Ioniqs or Konas!
Kona is weird as they're getting the batteries replaced. An e-niro would be a good test though.
@@briandowling8372 true lol I actually have a Kona and got the battery replaced. E-Niro makes sense.
I have a 2015 eGolf. I am interested to find out my battery percentage to see if it is still within warranty spec at 75,000 miles. I’ve watched the whole video and don’t see the “test” part or if there is a “calculation” of battery health. At what part of the video do you calculate your cars overall battery health? Is it the number of kWh charged after driving divided by then 24 kWh battery capacity? Seems to be but there’s no quick and dirty step 1,2,3 explanation.
th-cam.com/video/kMh8Ie--X8E/w-d-xo.html
On your chart. How did those model 3s get 8% degradation after only 2 years!?
The degradation curves are not linear, the first few percent generally show up in the first 100-150,000km, after that the curve flattens up around the 92 to 94 percent range usually, then stays around there past 250,000km and beyond.
You can look up Steinbuch's work for some good statistical degradation data breakdowns online, though you may need to convert the miles to km.
@@AllanSustainabilityFan thanks!
your research should be state funded my dude!!
So recommendations is to never charge 100 %.
80 % or 90 % ?
Yes, unless it's LFP (iron based) chemistry, those don't mind 100 percent.
Otherwise it's recommended to stay in the 80 percent range unless going on a long trip. A few 100 percent charges are fine, no big deal. But doing it daily is not ideal.
@@AllanSustainabilityFan Unfortunately LFPs are prone to battery degradation as well. Mine already lost 10kms range after just 2200kms. Although Tesla recommends charging atleast once a week at 100%, I think daily 100% charging is detrimental.
@@tusharnayyer951 It could just be initial degradation that then levels off, hard to know without more data:
The NMC/NCMA chemistry - used in the longer range models - typically starts with a relatively steep degradation curve, but then that flattens up when it gets down to around 92-94 percent original range, which is generally after roughly 100-150k kilometers.
It then takes many hundreds of thousands of kilometers before it ever goes under 85 percent degradation after that point.
In theory LFP should have about three times the number of cycles of the NMC/NCMA chemistries. I would not be surprised if this turns out to be a 1.0 - 1.6 million kilometer battery.
I have not seen anyone do a similar long-term test on the LFP ones yet though, so that's yet to be confirmed or dis-proven, but we'll see soon I guess.
(Source: Steinbuch's degradation data based on around 20k Tesla vehicles iirc)
@@AllanSustainabilityFan I am hoping thats the case. Anecdotal reports on Tesla forums suggests to limit the charging to 80% even for LFP as Tesla recommendation is mostly to maintain BMS calibration for LFPs.
why on earth they allow to charge to 100 percent if that s not good for the battery? i mean the engineers didn t knew about this or what?
How to contact Bjørn if I have an interesting car?
I have a Citroën C-zero 2012. It has all the bars, and claims around 100 km of range without heating etc.
Edit: and I am working at Furuset.
Same battery after 116 k ? and if so how far do you get on a full charge?
Yes
My 2015 24kw/h 134 000 km can maybe do 140km in a hot day on a slow road, but in a cold day at highwayspeed it will maybe do 90 km
*24 kWh
Whoah! 5:10
Love the degradation vids
hvis du gir klare instruksjoner, kan folk kanskje teste seg selv og sende resultater til deg?
I have a video about this already.
My 2008 Prius is very quiet :) I'll wait til. battery swap taking off before buying EV ,these cars will loose resale value from this degradation.
VW were doing wrong for quite some time. Instead of extra buttons/ functions/ tech, they should've focused on the battery and range of the car. No wonder they are close to kaput
Nice