Paul your methodology & order of operations for fabricating the muffler are tried & true. As a 62 year old fab man myself I really appreciate sticking to standards and what works. I always fold and crimp the mesh edges before brazing to ensure the braze doesn't vibrate apart.
Back in the sixties I was given a Triumph Tiger Cub without an engine. I had an Excelsior 250 two stroke twin lying around and a friend made some engine plates to fit it in the Cub frame. We then made a set of siamese pipes and used the Cub silencer. It was the best little bike I had. It was faster than the Cub and sounded fantastic without being loud. The original silencer was an absorption type and gave a two stroke a great sound. Even after a couple of years it still worked well.
My first job out of high school was working at an "independent" Triumph repair shop. He had a lot of business he turned away because he didn't know how to work on Japanese bikes. That's where I came in. I wasn't really into British bikes until I worked there. Ever since I have wanted a Cub and a BSA 441. Thanks for sharing the knowledge and thanks to The Mitch for documenting it!
Paul, just such awesome work! I'm a big mtb guy though never gotten into motorcycles but love your content! Your attention to detail gives us all something to aspire to.
@@paulbrodie I do like the way the muffler went together excellent 👌 work Good Monday Morning to you both from #YSW are you where all of the flooding is
@@paulbrodie the reason I have asked is beacuse of whst has happened i forgotten the name of the area but the area that's affected is near a big body of water
You never cease to amaze me, I love my motorcycle especially English and European bikes, maybe because the guy that introduced them to me raced Triumphs back in the 60's I use to sit and watch Him work on His bike for hours. He was so gracious and put up with my endless questions. yes that means it has been a love affair of over 50 years.
Paul, as humans are creative creatures, your videos for the younger generation touch that creative, common sense willing to learn group out here. Those that learn by observation. Instilling confidence to be able to do something. "I can do that" is ringing in the minds of people that are willing to make. God bless you for the next generation of those that "think they can". The problem solvers that lead the way. Great Job Teacher.
Thank you. I know that I was inspired when I was very young, and that made me want to create. It's a good time in my life to be sharing my knowledge. Appreciate you watching and commenting :)
When you machine tubing if you reverse the powerfeed towards the tailstock it won't push the tubing into the spindle. It also eliminates the bird nesting where the chips wrap around the chuck jaws & become a high speed spinning Brillo pad.
The thought that occurred to me, when turning thin wall tube, is to machine an aluminum plug that is a “light” press - you can push it in with your hands - and put it in the part which is gripped in the chuck. A steady rest helps keep the tubing from wobbling. (I need to get one for *my* lathe…)
@@norberthofer5830 worked in a place as a contractor making ultra high vacuum Chambers for scientific applications, they often worked with large thin wall tube (or fabricated tube) in Stainless and Mu Metal, to stop flex and chatter when turning or linishing the inner/outer faces various plugs were used, as were custom turned external colets with massive plumbing band clamps. We're talking anything from a 50mm Dia. up to easily 500mm Dia. All the protruding holes were Horizontal Bored too, so often massive blocks with bores to hold things round when the walls were as thin as 2mm.
Wow, this is great. I've made dozens of mufflers. I slip fit the cap and use rivets. Expanded mesh is stupid expensive too.... So nice to see someone else take the time instead of just buying one.
This video would have inspired me to make a muffler for my sawmill if I didn't already have 101 unfinished projects. It's on the list. My Piper Super Cub uses slip couplings on the exhaust. I use a product called Acousti Seal 35959 to seal and lube the couplings. It seals the joints from leaks but stays soft and keeps the joints from "welding" from carbon and corrosion so they come apart easily when needed. It's nasty to work with, sticky and tar-like, gets on your fingers and nose, but cleans up with mineral spirits.
Nicely done! I really like the fact that you can't see any obvious connection. And it come apart so easily, often you have to drill out rivets when you want to put in some new exhaust packing.
Thank you always for providing very interesting video with nice techniques and wearing Japanese character tee! The character “癒” means “healing” in English. I am always healed by watching your video👍
Very nice work! I got a cheap China 200mm 6 jaw chuck and a big cone dubb for thin wall work and plastic etc. It was less than 200$ so my expectation were low. Runout turned out to be less than a 2/100 mm, have not regretted that investment... It has seen quite a bit of use. Otherwise my luck with cheap tooling has nor been good. Expanding arbours are my go to solution for lathe work on short thin pieces of tubing. They are however quite expensive to buy new.
Awesome episode! The split design is brilliant. I just recently had to repack a factory Yamaha YZ80H muffler. I had to cut the endcap off, and repack it, then TIG the end cap back on. Your way is exponentially better!
@@paulbrodie I was extremely close to not Tigging it back, I contemplated rivets or screws, but opted for the "factory" look. Of course back when I raced one of these, the factory muffler was almost instantly discarded for a DG piece!!!!!
That was an awesome build, I love the idea of a 2 piece muffler like that... When you hit the chuck it actually surprised me because I couldn't figure out how in the hell you made sparks until I realized what happened as soon as you stopped the lathe. I'm just glad nothing got broke and nobody got hurt... I don't want to imagine what a broken bit would do if the lathe flung it into someone. 😩
@@paulbrodie - OK, I thought it was the arm of the tool holder that hit the chuck, that's not as bad but now I know why it took a chunk out of the chuck... That's its designed purpose. LoL Thank you for making the videos and keep up the great work guys.... Great videos, both in quality and content. 😁👍
I'd add a loose pin that would be retained by the mounting clamp. The pin would ensure that there would be no way for the two muffler halves to slide apart under vibration, since its out of view by the clamp.
that's not a bad idea! Mufflers are actually often held on the way Paul does it - just 1 or 2 slots and some kind of clamp. And out of experience this does hold quite well, so the pin might not be worth the effort. Although the pin would give it some extra safety, I really like the idea.
The Edge Technology Chuck Stop can help keep smaller parts from sliding back in the lathe chuck. Never used one myself, but I've seen other youtubers enjoy using it. It's basically like a set of parallels for the lathe chuck.
I just wasn't paying attention where I should have been. Working in my shop alone, and working while being filmed are two different circumstances for sure.
Love watching all your videos...and with all your patience and creativity to get that tiger cub into a masterpiece, its unthinkable what the price tag will be, if it will be up for sale (but then again i dont think it will ever happen 😀}...Thanks for sharing your brilliant and very detailed workmanship videos. Cheers!
Don't think you should machine the jaws off of your lathe chuck! LOL. I worked as a tool & die machinist/general job shop, fabricating, designing and manufacturing prototype machine parts many years ago, and i LOVE watching Paul fabricate parts! Smart man!
Took me a bit because both the japanese and english are equally stylized. The english says "Iyasu" (not "Jyasu"), while the japanese kanji is 癒 which is used in the verb 癒す / いやす / i-ya-su, which means to heal or to cure some ailment or discomfort. So I suppose the shirt cures the ailment of being naked above the waist.
I learned something new, never been inside a motorcycle muffler before. Always heard about either removing the packing or installing new but never messed with it before.
Excellent, thank you for this vid, was discussing a small stainless welding job my neighbour has asked me if I could do for him as a new to welding welder, I suggested braising asa posed to welding as its supper small thin walled stainless tubing, your perforated mesh braising has confirmed my doubts this looks to be the way to attack the project... Thanks you Mitch and Paul for sharing your passions with the world at large.....
@@paulbrodie ok thank you Paul for this nugget of wisdom, as said im a newbie to welding, and shall be throwing myself right into the deepens. Luckily its not a critical component and just a prototype for an idea of his... I shall do my research into best Tig practices. Thank you 💚
@paul brodie Really nice work, I just started following you recently based on the video of your downhill bike. I've built a few frames my self, I'm a TIG welder amongst other processes and skills. I'm not sure if you'll be interested, but I can't recommend highly enough how good Furic cups give coverage on tigleded tube, obvious you need to be an accomplished welder, but they seriously enhance the control and weld quality possible through better laminar gas flow and cup diameter. Also I recently went over to 20 series CK flex lock and that's allowed much more comfort for my wrists in awkward and out of position welds too. It's all about the process, thanks for the nice video.
@@paulbrodie haha sorry, a tigleded tube is a horrendous miss spelling due to my dyslexic tendencys, should just have read as "TIG welded tube", not saying the FexLoc torch is in anyway needed. Great videos, watched several more today, I noted your comment in one, about fitting the front brakes ak cable, how you stated "after all this time you thought you'd estimate time to do a job better", same for me, 15 years of which almost 10 in business and I still under estimate time to do some things.
Hey Paul, love your work! As an official coffeesnob I would highly recommend you guys get yourself an espresso machine. An old Faema Lambro/Urania/President would suit your shop perfectly and would make an awesome restoration project and video - plenty copper and brass machining and brazing potential. Might be a fun crossover project. Cheers and thanks for the great videos.
Very nice! My Japanese exhaust systems come with a similar tight sleeve fit between sections and use a stainless hook welded to both pieces and a tight stainless spring with an eyelet on each end to keep it together. Always comes apart nicely with no clamps. Would be a nice option if you found you needed more retention than the clamp can provide! Merry Christmas!
@@paulbrodie Once you use a 6 jaw chuck you won't go back to a 3 jaw. If you get one with reversable jaws you can always remove a few jaws if you need to if machining odd shaped pcs. If you shop around you can get a good deal, I found a new Buck 6 Jaw, 6 inch chuck for a trade on a pellet gun.
Gorgeous workmanship, it's a lot easier to do jobs when your application techniques take out 99% chance of a failure. I took out the 1% because of the lathe faux pas :D
If you make a ring of solid stainless steel which has a thickness of about 5mm and the rings ID diameter is the OD of the tail pipe you can push it over the very end of the pipe and weld in place, it then looks like the end of the pipe has been rolled back on its self which looks nicer than a plain end, it looks a bit more 'old school'
Like what you did . However , when I was redoing my muffler on my Ducati 999S to run Bonneville in stock class , I halved the stock muffler. Took the guts out. Did the perforated tube thing (2) with a perforated H-pipe in between them. I used stainless steel - steel wool instead of fiberglass since fiberglass wouldn’t work in the area I had to work with. Welded the stain steel muffler back up. Also die ground the interior of the outlets to paper thin since they would measure the outside of the muffler, not the inside . A straight threw muffler that was only slightly louder than stock.
Of course, the big thing with Cubs was that they were as loud as Armageddon, so 16 year old lads could feel great on a learner sized bike. How times change... Remarkable stuff, sir. (And that Mitch is no slouch. He needs more coffee, though. Not quite managing the Shaky Cam thing)...
my favourite episode so far, superb. but a question, perhaps I missed something. If the only one end of the mesh tube is fixed, I assume the other is just a push fit, so what will stop it resonating and rattling. Perhaps a spring to push against maybe? Ok...I'm bracing myself! go for it, I'm keen to learn.
The end of the mesh has a tube brazed into it, and that tube just slides into the tail pipe. We will see if it resonates or rattles. I think it will be ok, and the carbon buildup will eventually help too. Thanks for liking our videos :)
A wee tip , I take an old phillips screwdriver that fits snuggly in the holes and tilt each hole so it "scoops up" a bit of the flow , I sort of convinced myself this reduces the noise level.....might b just religion though......
That could be a good idea! I think I'll run the bike like it is and then I will know the sound level. Then I can make changes, because it's easy to take the muffler apart. Thanks Kim :)
E309 (Tig) rod, for stainless to non-stainless? (I got some for “mystery stainless” - like cookware, or salvage-yard stainless. It also works well for furniture-grade welds on mild steel!)
Bart is correct with his comment. Perforated steel can tend to burn away using Tig. I chose a mesh that was not too light and not too heavy. It was just easier (and faster) to braze..
@@paulbrodie so we make these drain traps out of stainless at work, I can't braze and if I could we don't do it at work but what I found that works is metal your fill onto your work piece. Keeps it's from turning into a giant hot mess
i really love watching you videos! i have a question about welding the stainless exhaust: many people back-purge when welding stainless. do you just live with the harsch backside of the welds or is it just overkill for a motorcycle exhaust to purge the backside of the welds?
Thank you blechnik. A viewer said I should purge, and suggested a Y-connector on the argon with a separate purge hose. So, I bought a fitting and 20' of hose... It didn't work at all. Yes, the exhaust filled up with argon, but the welder had no argon pressure so no argon came out the torch. Yes, I know purging is good for s/s, but it didn't happen on this job..
paul brodie - amazing work, I’ve learnt a great deal and use some of your techniques daily!! My father used to ride a Bonneville but preferred his older Norton Featherbed 650… On the stainless note; I did the same as you, but you can solve the problem by fitting valves with flow meters to your y-piece. The regulator keeps the outlet pressure constant, and when you want to weld without purge - just close the valve under the flow meter. Made up and purged the exhaust system and fuel tank as well as some titanium bits for my weird ‘2-year’ sports car that I’m 9 years late finishing 🤣😂 Whilst looking for a 650 Norton for my dad to ride in retirement, obviously….
@@rstone286 I guess my timing is bad. You say I can fix it by fitting a flow meter to my Y-valve setup. Guess what? I recently sold my extra flow meter because it sat in a box for 24 years and I never used it once...
Its not mad , just different lol ..... then everyone copies and its the norm. The whole exhaust is starting to look uncharacteristically heavy for you , The hidden joint works well , great result.
@@paulbrodie Yep , I had ,,, but lighter becomes a way of life after a while , Im in the heavier stronger class of thinking some days , and find it hard to add lightness , but appreciate it when I see it being done.
I like your style!...I usually made a plug to fit in thin tubing so I could clamp harder... Or more often I would use a shouldered mandrel in the lathe with a plug pushing the tube tight... Or sometimes I would make an expanding mandrel with saw cuts and a tapered spacer being pushed in with a cap screw. But many times I did just the same as you with the part imperceptibly pushing back into the chuck...whoops!
Sir goodafternoon I have an Ajs 1955 single 350 I am machineist have a machineshop in India I want fabricate a new muffler for myAjs not sale purpose my own use only here with I send a darwing I donot know what is the inner of Ajs muffler can you please help me expect your advice thankyou advance
The exhaust pipe, from headers to tip resonates like an organ pipe. The sounds can be loud enough to drown out conversation in the car. The fix is to cut in a chamber that resonates at the same frequency but 180 out of phase so that it cancels the drone.
I have to ask what your rationale was for using TIG to join the components but you used brazing (bronze) to close up the perforated metal sleeve. Bronze has lost a great amount of it's strength with heat over 500F and exhaust systems can run 700F to 1200F with ease. If you have the ability to TIG why did you choose to use bronze instead?
Paul your methodology & order of operations for fabricating the muffler are tried & true. As a 62 year old fab man myself I really appreciate sticking to standards and what works. I always fold and crimp the mesh edges before brazing to ensure the braze doesn't vibrate apart.
Back in the sixties I was given a Triumph Tiger Cub without an engine. I had an Excelsior 250 two stroke twin lying around and a friend made some engine plates to fit it in the Cub frame. We then made a set of siamese pipes and used the Cub silencer. It was the best little bike I had. It was faster than the Cub and sounded fantastic without being loud. The original silencer was an absorption type and gave a two stroke a great sound. Even after a couple of years it still worked well.
That's a good story! Thanks for watching and commenting.
My first job out of high school was working at an "independent" Triumph repair shop. He had a lot of business he turned away because he didn't know how to work on Japanese bikes. That's where I came in. I wasn't really into British bikes until I worked there. Ever since I have wanted a Cub and a BSA 441. Thanks for sharing the knowledge and thanks to The Mitch for documenting it!
I always liked the look of a 441.
Great work Paul ~
I am Neil from Taiwan.
The word of clothes means heal/healing in Chinese/Japanese.
Thanks Neil. All the best to you!
Paul, just such awesome work! I'm a big mtb guy though never gotten into motorcycles but love your content! Your attention to detail gives us all something to aspire to.
Thank you Jasmeleg.
@@paulbrodie I do like the way the muffler went together excellent 👌 work Good Monday Morning to you both from #YSW are you where all of the flooding is
@@domenicomonteleone3055 We have no flooding here. Thanks for your concern.
@@paulbrodie the reason I have asked is beacuse of whst has happened i forgotten the name of the area but the area that's affected is near a big body of water
@@domenicomonteleone3055 Not really a big body of water. It's called the Fraser River..
Nice workmanship and nice to see someone smiling so much and enjoying their work. Have a safe and nice day all. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
Hello Australia! Yes, I really do enjoy being in my shop. Thanks for watching.
You never cease to amaze me, I love my motorcycle especially English and European bikes, maybe because the guy that introduced them to me raced Triumphs back in the 60's I use to sit and watch Him work on His bike for hours. He was so gracious and put up with my endless questions. yes that means it has been a love affair of over 50 years.
Thom, good story, thanks.
Well done Sir! This little cub's going to be the talk of the town, keep up the great work Mr Brodie........And Mitch!
Thanks Rick.
Very nice,thank you Paul!!
Roberto, thanks for watching.
Paul, as humans are creative creatures, your videos for the younger generation touch that creative, common sense willing to learn group out here. Those that learn by observation. Instilling confidence to be able to do something.
"I can do that" is ringing in the minds of people that are willing to make.
God bless you for the next generation of those that "think they can".
The problem solvers that lead the way.
Great Job Teacher.
Thank you. I know that I was inspired when I was very young, and that made me want to create. It's a good time in my life to be sharing my knowledge. Appreciate you watching and commenting :)
Shirt reminds me of Ichiban Moto. I really miss that guys posts. A wealth of information Hahaa
When you machine tubing if you reverse the powerfeed towards the tailstock it won't push the tubing into the spindle. It also eliminates the bird nesting where the chips wrap around the chuck jaws & become a high speed spinning Brillo pad.
The thought that occurred to me, when turning thin wall tube, is to machine an aluminum plug that is a “light” press - you can push it in with your hands - and put it in the part which is gripped in the chuck.
A steady rest helps keep the tubing from wobbling. (I need to get one for *my* lathe…)
How about put a plug on the clamped end so it can't collapse the tube and then move. At least that is what I do.
@@norberthofer5830 worked in a place as a contractor making ultra high vacuum Chambers for scientific applications, they often worked with large thin wall tube (or fabricated tube) in Stainless and Mu Metal, to stop flex and chatter when turning or linishing the inner/outer faces various plugs were used, as were custom turned external colets with massive plumbing band clamps. We're talking anything from a 50mm Dia. up to easily 500mm Dia. All the protruding holes were Horizontal Bored too, so often massive blocks with bores to hold things round when the walls were as thin as 2mm.
So funny when Paul is surprised how well something comes out or works. Dude!!! You built it. Lol
Michael, I do get surprised. And sometimes I get the wrong sort of surprise. Thanks for watching!
Wow, this is great. I've made dozens of mufflers. I slip fit the cap and use rivets. Expanded mesh is stupid expensive too.... So nice to see someone else take the time instead of just buying one.
Thanks samtech79.
I love the body language as the mesh tube spins like 99% true right out of the gate. :D "Would'ya look at that!" Awesome work :)
Thank you Jinxid77.
”earing the fit" looks obviously the thing to do ! Thanks Paul !
I never miss your content, and always enjoy it when I really got a chill time with some snack, so as not to miss every detail of the work you do...
Nice videos from Paul Brodie, we"ve got nice ideas from this... Thanks a lot sir Brodie...
My pleasure! Thanks for watching.
The character on your shirt means "healing" .. same meaning in Chinese and Japanese.
Thank you Alex. I always wondered. That would be great if we could heal our planet :)
This video would have inspired me to make a muffler for my sawmill if I didn't already have 101 unfinished projects. It's on the list.
My Piper Super Cub uses slip couplings on the exhaust. I use a product called Acousti Seal 35959 to seal and lube the couplings. It seals the joints from leaks but stays soft and keeps the joints from "welding" from carbon and corrosion so they come apart easily when needed. It's nasty to work with, sticky and tar-like, gets on your fingers and nose, but cleans up with mineral spirits.
Very clever Paul ! Inspiring for my Cub project.
I'm really hoping it works well and sounds great!
Why do you braze the mesh instead of welding it?
It's just easier and faster, and doesn't come apart. Thanks for watching
Fantastic work ! You inspire me to keep going on my projects, even when I'm tired after a week full of work. Congratulations from Brazil !
Hello Brazil! Thanks for watching and commenting :)
As always, thank you Paul & Mitch for another enjoyable video.
Thanks Alan.
nice job - what are all the Medals for ?
Thanks Peter. I used to be a Vintage Roadracer when I was younger!
clearly very good at it Paul
Fantastic.
Thanks!
Your videos is like a school for me)
Great work and great muffler)
Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
A true master shows his mistakes, just like with your lathe jaws, awesome series!
I was paying attention, just watching the wrong thing.
@@paulbrodie All good brother, love the series!
Nicely done! I really like the fact that you can't see any obvious connection. And it come apart so easily, often you have to drill out rivets when you want to put in some new exhaust packing.
Thanks you Captain!
Paul - I think the character on your shirt might be Chinese meaning “recover”? Great videos full of interesting information!
Thank you Stanley. Yes, I think the character has to do with "healing". Good shirt for me now! 😉
@@paulbrodie I thought it was very appropriate too! Sending you good thoughts for healing and good health!
Had a great time watching, learned a lot!
Thanks for watching.
Beautiful build!
Thank you!
Thank you always for providing very interesting video with nice techniques and wearing Japanese character tee!
The character “癒” means “healing” in English.
I am always healed by watching your video👍
Thank you very much.
Very nice work!
I got a cheap China 200mm 6 jaw chuck and a big cone dubb for thin wall work and plastic etc. It was less than 200$ so my expectation were low. Runout turned out to be less than a 2/100 mm, have not regretted that investment... It has seen quite a bit of use. Otherwise my luck with cheap tooling has nor been good. Expanding arbours are my go to solution for lathe work on short thin pieces of tubing. They are however quite expensive to buy new.
Thank you Erik. I keep hearing about 6 jaw chucks. Maybe I have to get mine one day soon?
Can you make a soundless/suppressed muffler
I have never heard of a soundless muffler! I like the sound of a good motor.
Awesome episode! The split design is brilliant. I just recently had to repack a factory Yamaha YZ80H muffler. I had to cut the endcap off, and repack it, then TIG the end cap back on. Your way is exponentially better!
Can't believe you had to Tig the endcap back on...
@@paulbrodie I was extremely close to not Tigging it back, I contemplated rivets or screws, but opted for the "factory" look. Of course back when I raced one of these, the factory muffler was almost instantly discarded for a DG piece!!!!!
That’s the prettiest little muffler I ever did see. ✌️👍❤️
Thank you!
Just amazing stuff - a masterclass for rookies like me right up to experienced people I think. Thanks!
Thank you very much.
That was an awesome build, I love the idea of a 2 piece muffler like that... When you hit the chuck it actually surprised me because I couldn't figure out how in the hell you made sparks until I realized what happened as soon as you stopped the lathe. I'm just glad nothing got broke and nobody got hurt... I don't want to imagine what a broken bit would do if the lathe flung it into someone. 😩
I guess I reacted pretty quick because the toolbit (carbide insert) shows no sign of damage and I'm still using it. Thanks for watching.
@@paulbrodie - OK, I thought it was the arm of the tool holder that hit the chuck, that's not as bad but now I know why it took a chunk out of the chuck... That's its designed purpose. LoL
Thank you for making the videos and keep up the great work guys.... Great videos, both in quality and content. 😁👍
I'd add a loose pin that would be retained by the mounting clamp. The pin would ensure that there would be no way for the two muffler halves to slide apart under vibration, since its out of view by the clamp.
that's not a bad idea! Mufflers are actually often held on the way Paul does it - just 1 or 2 slots and some kind of clamp. And out of experience this does hold quite well, so the pin might not be worth the effort. Although the pin would give it some extra safety, I really like the idea.
@@MuesliLPs could just as well be a counter sunk flat-head screw that can't back out, but you get the idea.
I'll keep an eye on the muffler when I ride the little Cub. Thanks for the tip.
So many things learning from you sor you are a great
Nilu, thank you very much.
The Edge Technology Chuck Stop can help keep smaller parts from sliding back in the lathe chuck. Never used one myself, but I've seen other youtubers enjoy using it. It's basically like a set of parallels for the lathe chuck.
I just wasn't paying attention where I should have been. Working in my shop alone, and working while being filmed are two different circumstances for sure.
Love watching all your videos...and with all your patience and creativity to get that tiger cub into a masterpiece, its unthinkable what the price tag will be, if it will be up for sale (but then again i dont think it will ever happen 😀}...Thanks for sharing your brilliant and very detailed workmanship videos. Cheers!
Eric, thank you so much 😀
Great work, high end quality, reminds me of 46works, another youtuber that works alone in his shop.
Thanks Michel.
Don't think you should machine the jaws off of your lathe chuck! LOL. I worked as a tool & die machinist/general job shop, fabricating, designing and manufacturing prototype machine parts many years ago, and i LOVE watching Paul fabricate parts! Smart man!
Thanks Ron. If I machine the jaws off my lathe, then I can get a new one sooner!
@@paulbrodie You're absolutely right! I should have thought about it! Thanks for the vids! And keep up the great work!
Took me a bit because both the japanese and english are equally stylized. The english says "Iyasu" (not "Jyasu"), while the japanese kanji is 癒 which is used in the verb 癒す / いやす / i-ya-su, which means to heal or to cure some ailment or discomfort.
So I suppose the shirt cures the ailment of being naked above the waist.
That's the best comment on the shirt yet. Thank you Nicoya. Made me laugh!
It's so nice watching a master craftsman.
Thanks Matt.
I learned something new, never been inside a motorcycle muffler before. Always heard about either removing the packing or installing new but never messed with it before.
Yes, we still have to pack the muffler, which is not always the easiest thing to pack it tightly. But, I do have a plan!
@@paulbrodie that'll be a good one to watch.
Excellent, thank you for this vid, was discussing a small stainless welding job my neighbour has asked me if I could do for him as a new to welding welder, I suggested braising asa posed to welding as its supper small thin walled stainless tubing, your perforated mesh braising has confirmed my doubts this looks to be the way to attack the project... Thanks you Mitch and Paul for sharing your passions with the world at large.....
It is possible to braze stainless steel, I am told, but I have never had much luck. Much easier to Tig! Thanks for watching.
@@paulbrodie ok thank you Paul for this nugget of wisdom, as said im a newbie to welding, and shall be throwing myself right into the deepens. Luckily its not a critical component and just a prototype for an idea of his... I shall do my research into best Tig practices. Thank you 💚
I've clipped my chuck a few times over the years too.
Now I really need a new lathe...
@@paulbrodie Good excuse.
@paul brodie Really nice work, I just started following you recently based on the video of your downhill bike. I've built a few frames my self, I'm a TIG welder amongst other processes and skills.
I'm not sure if you'll be interested, but I can't recommend highly enough how good Furic cups give coverage on tigleded tube, obvious you need to be an accomplished welder, but they seriously enhance the control and weld quality possible through better laminar gas flow and cup diameter. Also I recently went over to 20 series CK flex lock and that's allowed much more comfort for my wrists in awkward and out of position welds too.
It's all about the process, thanks for the nice video.
Thank you Jonathon. I wrote down the cups and flex lock. I will see what you are talking about. Now tell me, what is a "tigleded tube"? A new shape?
@@paulbrodie haha sorry, a tigleded tube is a horrendous miss spelling due to my dyslexic tendencys, should just have read as "TIG welded tube", not saying the FexLoc torch is in anyway needed.
Great videos, watched several more today, I noted your comment in one, about fitting the front brakes ak cable, how you stated "after all this time you thought you'd estimate time to do a job better", same for me, 15 years of which almost 10 in business and I still under estimate time to do some things.
@@jd4000 Yes, I am always optimistic about how fast I can do a job...
Enjoy watching your channel very much. Fantastic skills.
Thank you George.
thanks paul, if you get a chance look at adventures with motive.
Hey Paul, love your work! As an official coffeesnob I would highly recommend you guys get yourself an espresso machine. An old Faema Lambro/Urania/President would suit your shop perfectly and would make an awesome restoration project and video - plenty copper and brass machining and brazing potential. Might be a fun crossover project.
Cheers and thanks for the great videos.
Shaun, thanks for watching.
Cool little muffler.
Brilliant design!!
Thank you G Man. Soon we'll find out if it works in the Real World..
Not worried about the heat of the exhaust gasses and the braze?
Not worried at all..
Nice job 👍
Thanks Steve with the same last name.
@@paulbrodie No faking it I've been Steve Brodie for the last 51 years Greetings from Australia .
@@stevebrodie7777 I'm slightly senior to you. Thanks for watching.
From north of Africa in Algeria 💓💓💓 I'm learning a lot from you 😇 best of success 😇
Hello Algeria! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Make a three spoke spacer that nests in the jaws and acts as a stop to keep the tubing from sliding.
Yes, I should have done something, but didn't.
Definitely a neat project 👍😎👍
Very nice! My Japanese exhaust systems come with a similar tight sleeve fit between sections and use a stainless hook welded to both pieces and a tight stainless spring with an eyelet on each end to keep it together. Always comes apart nicely with no clamps. Would be a nice option if you found you needed more retention than the clamp can provide! Merry Christmas!
Thanks Ben.
Very nice work......Thanks for sharing
Thank you too.
If you do a lot of tubing a 6 jaw chuck really gets a good clamping on the thin wall tubing and it also doesn't distort the tube like a 3 jaw can do.
I think you are correct, and I do not do a lot of thin wall tubing...
@@paulbrodie Once you use a 6 jaw chuck you won't go back to a 3 jaw. If you get one with reversable jaws you can always remove a few jaws if you need to if machining odd shaped pcs. If you shop around you can get a good deal, I found a new Buck 6 Jaw, 6 inch chuck for a trade on a pellet gun.
Gorgeous workmanship, it's a lot easier to do jobs when your application techniques take out 99% chance of a failure. I took out the 1% because of the lathe faux pas :D
I’ve done that once or twice myself over the years.
The shirt says “healing” when you made the fin on the barrels what filler rod did you use? loving the tiger cub build Thanks
Thanks Paul. Someone else said healing too. Rod was 5356.
@@paulbrodie that was the head ///411 or super sil
@@pm270100 Bill you're not being very clear. Are you asking about the cast iron barrel?
You do not use the damping material of the Ceramic metal mat?
To be honest, I have not heard of a Ceramic metal mat.
『癒(いやし)』！ IYASHI やで〜ぇ
The text on the t-shirt means "healing" in Japanese.
Thank you....
If you make a ring of solid stainless steel which has a thickness of about 5mm and the rings ID diameter is the OD of the tail pipe you can push it over the very end of the pipe and weld in place, it then looks like the end of the pipe has been rolled back on its self which looks nicer than a plain end, it looks a bit more 'old school'
👍👍👍
Like what you did . However , when I was redoing my muffler on my Ducati 999S to run Bonneville in stock class , I halved the stock muffler. Took the guts out. Did the perforated tube thing (2) with a perforated H-pipe in between them. I used stainless steel - steel wool instead of fiberglass since fiberglass wouldn’t work in the area I had to work with. Welded the stain steel muffler back up. Also die ground the interior of the outlets to paper thin since they would measure the outside of the muffler, not the inside . A straight threw muffler that was only slightly louder than stock.
Sounds like a bit of work! Thanks for watching and commenting.
I'll comment to get your stats up.......great show as usual.
Thank you; we don't want the stats to go down!
Ingenious but that's what we've come to expect.
Thank you much.
Another informative and enjoyable episode 👍👌Cheers Chris
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks Chris.
I like the idea of being able to split the silencer (uk speak) and re stuff it when it starts to get too loud. Good call Paul.
Thanks David.
Of course, the big thing with Cubs was that they were as loud as Armageddon, so 16 year old lads could feel great on a learner sized bike. How times change... Remarkable stuff, sir. (And that Mitch is no slouch. He needs more coffee, though. Not quite managing the Shaky Cam thing)...
Nicely done
Thank you ShotgunAU.
my favourite episode so far, superb. but a question, perhaps I missed something. If the only one end of the mesh tube is fixed, I assume the other is just a push fit, so what will stop it resonating and rattling. Perhaps a spring to push against maybe? Ok...I'm bracing myself! go for it, I'm keen to learn.
The end of the mesh has a tube brazed into it, and that tube just slides into the tail pipe. We will see if it resonates or rattles. I think it will be ok, and the carbon buildup will eventually help too. Thanks for liking our videos :)
My city is in Puralingga, Indonesia, there are many good exhaust makers
Hello Indonesia!
@@paulbrodie hello too friend
A wee tip , I take an old phillips screwdriver that fits snuggly in the holes and tilt each hole so it "scoops up" a bit of the flow , I sort of convinced myself this reduces the noise level.....might b just religion though......
That could be a good idea! I think I'll run the bike like it is and then I will know the sound level. Then I can make changes, because it's easy to take the muffler apart. Thanks Kim :)
Awsome job...
Thank you! Cheers!
E309 (Tig) rod, for stainless to non-stainless? (I got some for “mystery stainless” - like cookware, or salvage-yard stainless. It also works well for furniture-grade welds on mild steel!)
Without checking, I believe my stainless rod is 316.
@@paulbrodie thanks for the reply.
Why did you choose to braze the perforated section rather than TIG?
Probably dissimilar materials
@@fordkid9472 no, hi TIG´d the other end on
The perforated steel likes to burn away if you catch one of the thin spots wrong with the arc.
Bart is correct with his comment. Perforated steel can tend to burn away using Tig. I chose a mesh that was not too light and not too heavy. It was just easier (and faster) to braze..
@@paulbrodie so we make these drain traps out of stainless at work, I can't braze and if I could we don't do it at work but what I found that works is metal your fill onto your work piece. Keeps it's from turning into a giant hot mess
beautiful design and very well made! can't wait to hear the sound of it!
is this style of muffler called a B-Shooter?
Pea shooter I think.
Thanks Chris. I sure hope it sounds good!
@@lotophagi711 thanks!
outstanding!
i really love watching you videos!
i have a question about welding the stainless exhaust:
many people back-purge when welding stainless. do you just live with the harsch backside of the welds or is it just overkill for a motorcycle exhaust to purge the backside of the welds?
Thank you blechnik. A viewer said I should purge, and suggested a Y-connector on the argon with a separate purge hose. So, I bought a fitting and 20' of hose... It didn't work at all. Yes, the exhaust filled up with argon, but the welder had no argon pressure so no argon came out the torch. Yes, I know purging is good for s/s, but it didn't happen on this job..
paul brodie - amazing work, I’ve learnt a great deal and use some of your techniques daily!! My father used to ride a Bonneville but preferred his older Norton Featherbed 650… On the stainless note; I did the same as you, but you can solve the problem by fitting valves with flow meters to your y-piece. The regulator keeps the outlet pressure constant, and when you want to weld without purge - just close the valve under the flow meter. Made up and purged the exhaust system and fuel tank as well as some titanium bits for my weird ‘2-year’ sports car that I’m 9 years late finishing 🤣😂 Whilst looking for a 650 Norton for my dad to ride in retirement, obviously….
@@rstone286 I guess my timing is bad. You say I can fix it by fitting a flow meter to my Y-valve setup. Guess what? I recently sold my extra flow meter because it sat in a box for 24 years and I never used it once...
That is a great fit, resulting in a great smile!
It's all about the fit, that's what I think..
Its not mad , just different lol ..... then everyone copies and its the norm.
The whole exhaust is starting to look uncharacteristically heavy for you , The hidden joint works well , great result.
Thank you Tom. Have you noticed I haven't weighed a single item on the Cub?
@@paulbrodie Yep , I had ,,, but lighter becomes a way of life after a while , Im in the heavier stronger class of thinking some days , and find it hard to add lightness , but appreciate it when I see it being done.
great video, question, on the mesh tube, why did you braze it together versus TIG? is it because the mesh is too thin? thanks Paul :)
I find it easier to braze than Tig, but either is fine.
@@paulbrodie ok thanks Paul, enjoying your channel, just subscribed 😊👍
@@zenpro8164 Thanks zen pro.
I like your style!...I usually made a plug to fit in thin tubing so I could clamp harder... Or more often I would use a shouldered mandrel in the lathe with a plug pushing the tube tight... Or sometimes I would make an expanding mandrel with saw cuts and a tapered spacer being pushed in with a cap screw. But many times I did just the same as you with the part imperceptibly pushing back into the chuck...whoops!
Thanks Tom. Yes, that was my mistake of the week.
I have a question. Why braze rather than TIG?
It's easier to braze the perforated steel (I presume that is what you are talking about...) than Tig.
@@paulbrodie Yep. That's what I meant. Thanks.
Sir goodafternoon I have an Ajs 1955 single 350 I am machineist have a machineshop in India I want fabricate a new muffler for myAjs not sale purpose my own use only here with I send a darwing I donot know what is the inner of Ajs muffler can you please help me expect your advice thankyou advance
Just a small step to scale it up for larger engines. Marketing wants us to think we’re not able to do these things but we know better.
For the Tiger Cub I think it's the perfect size.
Hi Paul, your shirt says "Healing" if I'm correct. Greetings from Germany
Thanks Simon. Yes, I have been told that is the meaning... 🤨
It would be useful to know how to incorporate a resonant chamber in the single structure to prevent droning....
What is droning?
The exhaust pipe, from headers to tip resonates like an organ pipe. The sounds can be loud enough to drown out conversation in the car. The fix is to cut in a chamber that resonates at the same frequency but 180 out of phase so that it cancels the drone.
Beautiful muffler.
so mwhen do we get to hear the muffler muffl.
I'm a bit held up on the Cub waiting for fork seals and some engine bits, but don't worry, I am working on it.
I have to ask what your rationale was for using TIG to join the components but you used brazing (bronze) to close up the perforated metal sleeve. Bronze has lost a great amount of it's strength with heat over 500F and exhaust systems can run 700F to 1200F with ease. If you have the ability to TIG why did you choose to use bronze instead?
It was just easier to nickel silver the perforated metal. The exhaust will never get hot enough for the nickel silver to melt.
Hi.The traditional chinese word on your shirt means 「heal」. It is a good word in chinese.
I am from Taiwan.Chinese is my mother language.
Thanks for the info!
Google lens told me your shirt says "yes"
Quite a few viewers have told me the shirt says "healing".