Good morning @refard5, Welcome and thank you for your kind comment, I appreciate it. Hope you will visit 3D Accuracy again. You are always welcome. Have a terrific weekend! Robert
I looked through the channel and it seems you like the stratasys stuff and are running a business. Not trying to be rude but the parts warping and coming off the build plate at the 12:41 mark look terrible for what should be a professional machine. I highly recommend a brim and more chamber heat if they even off that on their machines. Good luck and maybe branch out to try other brand printers, you might be surprised.
Welcome @asv4k8, thank you for your comment, I appreciate it. Yes, I like Stratasys 3D Printers. I don't know anyone who's used them that doesn't. And yes again, I've been in business for 46 years which I'm actually quite proud of. Most don't make it that long. I must be doing something right, I'm still going strong! Ahhh ... you are very observant; I was wondering if someone would catch the corner warping, and you did. But don't be too concerned about it. Stratasys is actually quite clever in that it first prints several layers of support material, roughly 1/8" thick, before it starts printing the part with the chosen model material. By the time it gets to printing the part, the lift on the corner doesn't affect the part itself as it already levels itself. Hence, the parts are actually fine, no lift or warp at all. I knew the corner warping was a possibility before I even started the print because the build platform had been used several times and was already showing signs of wear which indicates possible adhesion problems. Of course, you didn't know that because you didn't see the build platform before use. It didn't matter to me because I was just looking to empty the material spool and get it out of the printer. The parts I printed are just sample prints that I give away. Had it been a print for a customer project a new build platform would have been used. Regarding other 3D Printer brands, any printer that doesn't have a sealed, heated build chamber and two separate print tips to run both model and support material is automatically crossed off my list. Any printer that doesn't utilize a support material than can be completely dissolved from the part, not just softened into a mucky slime, in a heated support removal tank is also automatically crossed off my list. Most design projects I work on are far too complicated and I don't want to waste my time fighting 3D Printers without these capabilities. I don't think there are any other options available. Anyway, I hope you enjoyed the video and will come back again. You are always welcome. Have a terrific 2025! Robert
Came to say similar. I only skimmed but what I saw was honestly.. not good. Seems like consumer machines might have surpassed these ones, haha. I'm sure there are exceptions and these have their place.
Welcome @technicallyreal, thank you for your comment, I appreciate it. I don't understand what you're seeing that is not good. Could you elaborate? video time stamp, explanation. All 12 parts printed just fine, no warp, no defects. What make and model of 3D Printer are you using? I'm curious as to what you are accustomed to. Have you ever used a Stratasys 3D Printer? If so, which model are you familiar with? Looking forward to hearing from you. Have a terrific weekend! Robert
@ I don't mean to be negative but I would honestly say what came out of the machine was just okay at best. It succeeded at making the parts, so I can't say it's bad. However, it needs rafts to print on? I have not needed to use a raft in almost 8 years now. Rafts waste an enormous amount of material and time, and they make the underside of the part look bad. Not to mention they are extra work to remove and cause defects if not removed cleanly. The prints did not look appealing me compared to what I regularly see come out of a modern consumer printer. Warping of the raft should not happen, and is easily avoidable (without brims) on consumer machines now. The flat layer under the text was not great to me. The solid infill pattern is very obvious and appears rough, and I assume that wasn't intentional (maybe it is exaggerated by the particular color you printed in as it is semi translucent?). It was difficult to assess the print speed but I feel like it was at best half the speed of newer consumer machines. I currently have 6 Bambu Lab P1S machines. Before these I had many others such as Prusa MK3S+, Creality Ender-3 S1 Pro, AnyCubic Kobra Max, DaVinci 1.0 Pro, Makerbot Mini, and others. All machines before the Bambu's felt hobby grade. The Bambu's just work, always work, we can run them 24/7 and it's very rare to have issues. Most of them are over 3000 print hours now (got the first 2 approx 1.5yrs ago now). Each of them has an AMS unit with 4 materials loaded. We print multi-color and single color objects. PLA, PETG, ASA, ABS, TPU, and PC. Sometimes carbon-filled, sometimes glass-filled. Sometimes special support materials, sometimes PLA as support for PETG and vice-versa. I have never used a Statasys machine myself, unless you count the MakerBot.
@technicallyreal, thank you for your reply. I prefer the way Stratasys prints several layers of support material before printing the model material. PLA is the only material Stratasys prints without a different support material. It's PLA support with a PLA part. All others material ABS, ASA, PC, PA ... etc. use with a soluble support material. What I like about it is that it holds the print firmly to the build sheet but once finished it can be removed from the build sheet without much difficulty by simply flexing the build sheet. Then everything gets placed into a heated support removal tank where the support material is completely and magically dissolved away and only the 3D Printed part remains. Clean, simple, easy, just the way I like it. And, as a bonus the top and bottom of the parts appearance look the same. I've never liked the look of a 3D Printed part where the bottom of the part is smooth and shiny, and the top obviously looks 3D Printed. Just looks goofy to me, like somebody couldn't make up their mind. Yes, you're right. The translucent gloss PLA exaggerates the appearance and makes it look a bit rough. It's deceptive as the part feels smoother than it looks. Sounds like you've found a 3D Printer that works very well for your needs. That's great. I'll stick with Stratasys 3D Printers. They fit my needs perfectly. Have a terrific weekend! Robert
what a cool machine, thank you for sharing
Good morning @refard5,
Welcome and thank you for your kind comment, I appreciate it.
Hope you will visit 3D Accuracy again. You are always welcome.
Have a terrific weekend!
Robert
I looked through the channel and it seems you like the stratasys stuff and are running a business. Not trying to be rude but the parts warping and coming off the build plate at the 12:41 mark look terrible for what should be a professional machine. I highly recommend a brim and more chamber heat if they even off that on their machines. Good luck and maybe branch out to try other brand printers, you might be surprised.
Welcome @asv4k8, thank you for your comment, I appreciate it.
Yes, I like Stratasys 3D Printers. I don't know anyone who's used them that doesn't. And yes again, I've been in business for 46 years which I'm actually quite proud of. Most don't make it that long. I must be doing something right, I'm still going strong!
Ahhh ... you are very observant; I was wondering if someone would catch the corner warping, and you did. But don't be too concerned about it. Stratasys is actually quite clever in that it first prints several layers of support material, roughly 1/8" thick, before it starts printing the part with the chosen model material. By the time it gets to printing the part, the lift on the corner doesn't affect the part itself as it already levels itself. Hence, the parts are actually fine, no lift or warp at all.
I knew the corner warping was a possibility before I even started the print because the build platform had been used several times and was already showing signs of wear which indicates possible adhesion problems. Of course, you didn't know that because you didn't see the build platform before use. It didn't matter to me because I was just looking to empty the material spool and get it out of the printer. The parts I printed are just sample prints that I give away. Had it been a print for a customer project a new build platform would have been used.
Regarding other 3D Printer brands, any printer that doesn't have a sealed, heated build chamber and two separate print tips to run both model and support material is automatically crossed off my list. Any printer that doesn't utilize a support material than can be completely dissolved from the part, not just softened into a mucky slime, in a heated support removal tank is also automatically crossed off my list. Most design projects I work on are far too complicated and I don't want to waste my time fighting 3D Printers without these capabilities. I don't think there are any other options available.
Anyway, I hope you enjoyed the video and will come back again. You are always welcome.
Have a terrific 2025!
Robert
Came to say similar. I only skimmed but what I saw was honestly.. not good. Seems like consumer machines might have surpassed these ones, haha.
I'm sure there are exceptions and these have their place.
Welcome @technicallyreal, thank you for your comment, I appreciate it.
I don't understand what you're seeing that is not good. Could you elaborate? video time stamp, explanation.
All 12 parts printed just fine, no warp, no defects.
What make and model of 3D Printer are you using? I'm curious as to what you are accustomed to.
Have you ever used a Stratasys 3D Printer? If so, which model are you familiar with?
Looking forward to hearing from you.
Have a terrific weekend!
Robert
@ I don't mean to be negative but I would honestly say what came out of the machine was just okay at best. It succeeded at making the parts, so I can't say it's bad. However, it needs rafts to print on? I have not needed to use a raft in almost 8 years now. Rafts waste an enormous amount of material and time, and they make the underside of the part look bad. Not to mention they are extra work to remove and cause defects if not removed cleanly.
The prints did not look appealing me compared to what I regularly see come out of a modern consumer printer. Warping of the raft should not happen, and is easily avoidable (without brims) on consumer machines now. The flat layer under the text was not great to me. The solid infill pattern is very obvious and appears rough, and I assume that wasn't intentional (maybe it is exaggerated by the particular color you printed in as it is semi translucent?).
It was difficult to assess the print speed but I feel like it was at best half the speed of newer consumer machines.
I currently have 6 Bambu Lab P1S machines. Before these I had many others such as Prusa MK3S+, Creality Ender-3 S1 Pro, AnyCubic Kobra Max, DaVinci 1.0 Pro, Makerbot Mini, and others.
All machines before the Bambu's felt hobby grade. The Bambu's just work, always work, we can run them 24/7 and it's very rare to have issues. Most of them are over 3000 print hours now (got the first 2 approx 1.5yrs ago now). Each of them has an AMS unit with 4 materials loaded. We print multi-color and single color objects. PLA, PETG, ASA, ABS, TPU, and PC. Sometimes carbon-filled, sometimes glass-filled. Sometimes special support materials, sometimes PLA as support for PETG and vice-versa.
I have never used a Statasys machine myself, unless you count the MakerBot.
@technicallyreal, thank you for your reply.
I prefer the way Stratasys prints several layers of support material before printing the model material. PLA is the only material Stratasys prints without a different support material. It's PLA support with a PLA part. All others material ABS, ASA, PC, PA ... etc. use with a soluble support material. What I like about it is that it holds the print firmly to the build sheet but once finished it can be removed from the build sheet without much difficulty by simply flexing the build sheet. Then everything gets placed into a heated support removal tank where the support material is completely and magically dissolved away and only the 3D Printed part remains. Clean, simple, easy, just the way I like it. And, as a bonus the top and bottom of the parts appearance look the same. I've never liked the look of a 3D Printed part where the bottom of the part is smooth and shiny, and the top obviously looks 3D Printed. Just looks goofy to me, like somebody couldn't make up their mind.
Yes, you're right. The translucent gloss PLA exaggerates the appearance and makes it look a bit rough. It's deceptive as the part feels smoother than it looks.
Sounds like you've found a 3D Printer that works very well for your needs. That's great.
I'll stick with Stratasys 3D Printers. They fit my needs perfectly.
Have a terrific weekend!
Robert