Always good to see another Link going into another car Sam. I'm tempted to upgrade my G4+ TALT+ I got off you guys to a X, just for being able to get wheel speed sensors direct in now.
Certainly can! If you load up the PCLink software and go into plug in section of the help file you will find a pinout specific to the GTT plug in ECU. In the pinout section you will see 'Temp 4' is not allocated to anything for the G4X ECU but has a wire for purge solenoid on the R34. Simply cut and wire into this pin like we have done in this video and you will be sorted.
Are you able to supply & install one of these into a jzx100? Need to get rid of my piggyback. Also would need an electric boost controller & a bunch of sensors. Also possibly a display.
Hi Sam I've got a r33 gtst like in the video and I've bought a link g4x and wanted to fit the air temp sensor myself does the factory auto loom have the same spare pin to connect to like you have in the video and if so what number slot would I find the pin any help would be appreciated thanks
Hey mate, you may need to get a spare pin/pigtail to fit to the header plug, or remove an unused one from yours. All the other information on the place to put it is readily available in the PCLink help software :)
Im putting a Link G4X in my R33 and would love to do a clean install similar to this. So the IAT you ran to PIN 36 (Air Intake Sensor) and spliced the ground to PIN 30 (Sensor Ground)? Do you need to do any configuration of the pin in PCLink using the GTS base map?
Yep, you'll need to add in a pin to in 'pin 36' as only GTRs had that populated and then splice into sensor ground on pin 30. Yes you'll need to make sure you config the sensor for this in the tuning software.
Thats essentially it, I assume the owner might keep it for asthetic reasons with how stock the car looks, but could certainly remove it. Sam did the same ecu in my car and I deleted it.
Correct! The AFM is now unnecessary! Zac will most likely change that up when he changes the plenum. For now it's just connecting the air filter to the turbo :D
If you read through all the installation instructions provided with the ECU looking at the ECU pinout sections, as well as areas of the help file in PCLink that show how to wire sensors, you will see a spare temperature sensor input pin on the main header plug as well as your sensor ground pin. Relocate an unused pin/wire from the header plug into the spare temperature input pin and you're just about there.
I mean after the first attempt, the vid is edited at 8.55. Was anything changed on the injector, or timing before it was started? I’ve got 1000cc RC injectors on mine so I need to set them up! Thanks
@@jimbostir5004 as I said in the video, the timing was out. We used a timing light to check and setup correct base ignition timing after the initial test fire. After the edit is when we had corrected this and that's all we had to do. Zac's car was/is running standard injectors so we didn't have to set that up. If you have bigger injectors you will need to adjust the fuel setup and the fuel map.
This has made me much more confident about first start of my R34 GTT this weekend :) Would you say its necessary to wire in a Wideband if driving on the base map? Stock injectors but we've bolted on a 3071r ready for the tune (+ other bolt ons, injectors will upgraded on mapping day)
Driving on a base map is always going to be risky, especially if the turbo has been changed. Every engine is different from the next and will react differently, the base map isn't really a one size fits all. Anything you can do to add an extra safety mechanism in is always going to be a good idea. The Link basemaps are quite good, but if its slightly off in the fuel area, a wideband is going to help you see that. There's only advantages to doing it sooner rather than later. :)
@@WhiteysWiring thanks for the reply, we are just on a bit of a tight schedule to get the car driveable but will make sure we allocate some time to wire the wideband in, had a quick look at closed loop fueling too, Reckon it would be safe to use that on the base map fuel table or just leave it as a readout on the gauge? Also forgot to say great video :)
@@jackaryas yes it would be safe to use the closed loop but just keep its control percentage to a conservative level otherwise you might find it will take or add too much fuel in some instances making it worse to drive. And thanks for the kind words :)
@@WhiteysWiring that's great thank you so much for the help, this is all new to me and fully aware of the damage that can be done 😂 will sub to you on our main account, it's Project Racecar if you want to follow our R34 and Evo builds 🤙
Always good to see another Link going into another car Sam. I'm tempted to upgrade my G4+ TALT+ I got off you guys to a X, just for being able to get wheel speed sensors direct in now.
Well if you need one, let us know!
Audio quality is awesome! What a good upgrade
The mullet is outstanding 👌👌
Thankyou Sam! I’m mighty stoked at even just how it ran on a base map! Now off to get tuned! Thankyou once again ✌️
I realize it's kinda randomly asking but do anybody know of a good place to stream newly released movies online?
@Lane Musa I would suggest flixzone. Just google for it =)
Thanks for the tip on the IAT wiring , very helpful
Can you do the same Intake Air Temp wiring workaround on an R34 G4x as well?
Certainly can! If you load up the PCLink software and go into plug in section of the help file you will find a pinout specific to the GTT plug in ECU. In the pinout section you will see 'Temp 4' is not allocated to anything for the G4X ECU but has a wire for purge solenoid on the R34. Simply cut and wire into this pin like we have done in this video and you will be sorted.
Would I need alterations to a r33 series 1.5 with a gtt neo swap for the ecu to work?
When you installed the Air Temp sensor. Was there already a wire at the harness plug? If there isn’t, where do you get the pins to suit
On the GTST header plug there is not a pin there. We have many second hand looms we take pigtails from.
When you first start it and it just wanted to crank. What was wrong with it and how did you fix it??
Base timing was out and required being set with a timing light.
Nice mullet m8
Are you able to supply & install one of these into a jzx100? Need to get rid of my piggyback. Also would need an electric boost controller & a bunch of sensors. Also possibly a display.
We sure can! Head over to our Facebook page and shoot us a message so we can discuss it!
Hi Sam I've got a r33 gtst like in the video and I've bought a link g4x and wanted to fit the air temp sensor myself does the factory auto loom have the same spare pin to connect to like you have in the video and if so what number slot would I find the pin any help would be appreciated thanks
Hey mate, you may need to get a spare pin/pigtail to fit to the header plug, or remove an unused one from yours. All the other information on the place to put it is readily available in the PCLink help software :)
Cheers awesome 👌 thank you very much 😊
Im putting a Link G4X in my R33 and would love to do a clean install similar to this. So the IAT you ran to PIN 36 (Air Intake Sensor) and spliced the ground to PIN 30 (Sensor Ground)? Do you need to do any configuration of the pin in PCLink using the GTS base map?
Yep, you'll need to add in a pin to in 'pin 36' as only GTRs had that populated and then splice into sensor ground on pin 30. Yes you'll need to make sure you config the sensor for this in the tuning software.
@@WhiteysWiring thanks so much confirming that 😊 I see now in the documentation that pin is mapped to AN Temp 2.
Is the airflow meter redundant now? Just a means of connecting the air filter?
Thats essentially it, I assume the owner might keep it for asthetic reasons with how stock the car looks, but could certainly remove it.
Sam did the same ecu in my car and I deleted it.
Correct! The AFM is now unnecessary! Zac will most likely change that up when he changes the plenum. For now it's just connecting the air filter to the turbo :D
So for the rb20 is it relative to the rb25 ?
Exactly the same process for RB20 installation
couldn't see how to install the IAT sensor into the ecu
If you read through all the installation instructions provided with the ECU looking at the ECU pinout sections, as well as areas of the help file in PCLink that show how to wire sensors, you will see a spare temperature sensor input pin on the main header plug as well as your sensor ground pin. Relocate an unused pin/wire from the header plug into the spare temperature input pin and you're just about there.
@@WhiteysWiring what if you dont use an IAT, and have a cut green wire at the MAF sensor harness? have a new stock MAF on it.
Hi, what did you do after the first starting attempt? I’ve just put and in mine and it’s doing the same thing.
Cheers.
We confirmed base ignition timing with a timing light and configured to ECU
I mean after the first attempt, the vid is edited at 8.55. Was anything changed on the injector, or timing before it was started? I’ve got 1000cc RC injectors on mine so I need to set them up! Thanks
@@jimbostir5004 as I said in the video, the timing was out. We used a timing light to check and setup correct base ignition timing after the initial test fire. After the edit is when we had corrected this and that's all we had to do. Zac's car was/is running standard injectors so we didn't have to set that up. If you have bigger injectors you will need to adjust the fuel setup and the fuel map.
Ok thanks. For the reply. Il look into mine. Thanks for posting this up.
This has made me much more confident about first start of my R34 GTT this weekend :) Would you say its necessary to wire in a Wideband if driving on the base map?
Stock injectors but we've bolted on a 3071r ready for the tune (+ other bolt ons, injectors will upgraded on mapping day)
Driving on a base map is always going to be risky, especially if the turbo has been changed. Every engine is different from the next and will react differently, the base map isn't really a one size fits all. Anything you can do to add an extra safety mechanism in is always going to be a good idea. The Link basemaps are quite good, but if its slightly off in the fuel area, a wideband is going to help you see that. There's only advantages to doing it sooner rather than later. :)
@@WhiteysWiring thanks for the reply, we are just on a bit of a tight schedule to get the car driveable but will make sure we allocate some time to wire the wideband in, had a quick look at closed loop fueling too, Reckon it would be safe to use that on the base map fuel table or just leave it as a readout on the gauge? Also forgot to say great video :)
@@jackaryas yes it would be safe to use the closed loop but just keep its control percentage to a conservative level otherwise you might find it will take or add too much fuel in some instances making it worse to drive. And thanks for the kind words :)
@@WhiteysWiring that's great thank you so much for the help, this is all new to me and fully aware of the damage that can be done 😂 will sub to you on our main account, it's Project Racecar if you want to follow our R34 and Evo builds 🤙
Get the doooogz