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Pls help me

Read the description to find the link to the diagram

If you read through all the installation instructions provided with the ECU looking at the ECU pinout sections, as well as areas of the help file in PCLink that show how to wire sensors, you will see a spare temperature sensor input pin on the main header plug as well as your sensor ground pin. Relocate an unused pin/wire from the header plug into the spare temperature input pin and you're just about there.

​@@WhiteysWiring what if you dont use an IAT, and have a cut green wire at the MAF sensor harness? have a new stock MAF on it.

Exactly the same process for RB20 installation

Just peeled back the harness, cut back the wires and insulated the ends before recovering.

@@WhiteysWiring figured that’d be the case. Saving this project for my next day off and been dying to knock it out. THANK YOU so much for your input! 🍻

Should be the same but can't guarantee.

Has been a super reliable setup for its owner. He isn't someone who smashes through gears though so probably helps. The car is currently getting upgrades currently in the way of injectors, high mount turbo setup and aftermarket ECU.

@@WhiteysWiring That's great to hear.

Yep, you'll need to add in a pin to in 'pin 36' as only GTRs had that populated and then splice into sensor ground on pin 30. Yes you'll need to make sure you config the sensor for this in the tuning software.

@@WhiteysWiring thanks so much confirming that 😊 I see now in the documentation that pin is mapped to AN Temp 2.

Base timing was out and required being set with a timing light.

We shot our earlier videos like this with our phone. We have since upgraded to a proper camera and mic setup :)

Its actually a 3.5" dump. If you check out our other video you'll see us fabricate the rest of the exhaust and talk about the dump. Fuel cut will depend on the temperature of the air. With an air flow meter if the air is cold it is more dense and thus has tighter compacted molecules and thus more oxygen for a given amount of air so boost cut would be more prominent. If the air is hot such as this was on a hot day and not a great deal of moving air, the air is lense dense and less oxygen. On cooler mornings, Glenn's car was hitting boost cut after we did this video so the boost was dropped down a touch.

@@WhiteysWiring Ah ok! Yes i found the exhaust video shortly after i commented. Also you have the stock intake j pipe? And what size ic piping? I have 2.5" ic and exhaust and about to turn the boost up and wondering what ill get out of it

12AWG for this setup.

Yes this was 100% stock aside from a poorly constructed and adapted 2.5" exhaust.

As the title says it is a 1JZ. If you check out some of our other videos you'll see the conversion process :)

Resonators deal with drone not mufflers

Im trying todo r8 coils now, but idk if its cos i used the wrong resistors or not it was the closest i had, and it start run fine and after a while the coils would start breaking up and then stall, the other difference is im running the jzx110/jzs171 ecu and ignitor. But that shouldnt cause a issue. I have the proper resistors coming tomorrow

Better than an na 2j

No idea on that one sorry.

Unfortunately we haven't developed this any further as yet

@@WhiteysWiring be very keen for a kit

@@jimmyw1890 unfortunately its not high up on our priority list at this stage as we have other things in development.

Its all explained in the video :)

Hey mate, ECU master you won't need to do anything of this. Wire the coil triggers directly to the ECU master coil outputs. We had to muck around with this setup like this because the factory ECU is looking for a feedback to see that the coils have fired where as the ECU master does not need it.

@@WhiteysWiring that's brilliant thank you very much. Now comes the debate between yaris bosch coils or vag R8 coils. Thanks for replying ❤️

Driving on a base map is always going to be risky, especially if the turbo has been changed. Every engine is different from the next and will react differently, the base map isn't really a one size fits all. Anything you can do to add an extra safety mechanism in is always going to be a good idea. The Link basemaps are quite good, but if its slightly off in the fuel area, a wideband is going to help you see that. There's only advantages to doing it sooner rather than later. :)

@@WhiteysWiring thanks for the reply, we are just on a bit of a tight schedule to get the car driveable but will make sure we allocate some time to wire the wideband in, had a quick look at closed loop fueling too, Reckon it would be safe to use that on the base map fuel table or just leave it as a readout on the gauge? Also forgot to say great video :)

@@jackaryas yes it would be safe to use the closed loop but just keep its control percentage to a conservative level otherwise you might find it will take or add too much fuel in some instances making it worse to drive. And thanks for the kind words :)

@@WhiteysWiring that's great thank you so much for the help, this is all new to me and fully aware of the damage that can be done 😂 will sub to you on our main account, it's Project Racecar if you want to follow our R34 and Evo builds 🤙

We confirmed base ignition timing with a timing light and configured to ECU

I mean after the first attempt, the vid is edited at 8.55. Was anything changed on the injector, or timing before it was started? I’ve got 1000cc RC injectors on mine so I need to set them up! Thanks

@@jimbostir5004 as I said in the video, the timing was out. We used a timing light to check and setup correct base ignition timing after the initial test fire. After the edit is when we had corrected this and that's all we had to do. Zac's car was/is running standard injectors so we didn't have to set that up. If you have bigger injectors you will need to adjust the fuel setup and the fuel map.

Ok thanks. For the reply. Il look into mine. Thanks for posting this up.

Hard to say as we haven't had the opportunity to drive/compare back to back.

Hey Trent, jump over to our other socials (FB, Insta) and we can discuss further.

Still daily driving with this setup currently, no issues. Still running standard ECU. Has now seen more boost and power since the initial dyno run on our other video. Stay tuned for an update very soon!

Hey mate, you may need to get a spare pin/pigtail to fit to the header plug, or remove an unused one from yours. All the other information on the place to put it is readily available in the PCLink help software :)

Cheers awesome 👌 thank you very much 😊

Yes aftermarket ECUs have a great deal of advantages. Glenn will be fitting a Link G4X Fury to this in the near future once he has the rest of his planned upgrades ready to go on. As mentioned in the video, we went this route as his standard coils were failing. Rather than waste money on standard replacements, he decided an upgrade of the ignition system straight away would be the best plan of attack. Which we were able to achieve on the standard ECU and is still running faultlessly.

Would be good, but would cost a fair bit of money and time to make the opposing connector to plug in in place of the igniter as they don't currently exist

There's products out there like the 'universal tach adapter' or the Autometer 9117 tach adapter that will generate a tach signal.