Hi Paul and everyone who reads the comment ! Thanks again Paul for that wonderful editing again ! It completed a lot what David Groover showed us with his own sessions about AI tools. I think it is there, a bit like it was with the new sytem cameras and their new 3D autofocus sytems. almost Everyone who earned those new cameras wanted only to work with the 3d autofocus and of course there were situations in which it did't work. Completely forgetting that in the last olympic games the 3d autofocus cameras did'nt exist , but the photographs made astonishing images, following their subjects with sometimes manual focus , its worked and everybody was satisfied! Now they all want to use the AI in capture one in every case 😉! the same thing ! I have really a question about the picture from the town in the night ! Usually in such a case, you take from the beginning the linear curve( instead of auto) when there is too much of contrast! was it here impossible or not good to do or to try it ??? i asked my question 3 times in the live chat ( i came too late with 20 minutes ) ,but people was occupied to answer the mac problem, so the answer of my question was blowing ine the wind ( dylan) 😂😂😂!! I think i will send you one of my last picture in which i used the AI masking, to see if i did it well ! Thank you again for all Paul !!
Hi Francios, Sorry we missed your question - so, it depends. If we're trying to make a city "pop", starting from a flat linear curve is a lot of work. So as long as the highlights/shadows can be protected (or recovered), there's no real issue with starting from a standard curve and then bringing in other sliders to correct (if they can). ...and if they can't, we then switch to Linear Response, and we can then add in contrast instead :-)
@@Paulreiffer Thanks a lot Paul for your answer. As i was thinking , yes it depends. Here there was obviously no highlights in danger , so the linear curve was not necessary. And like you said, : it is a lot of work after to come back from a linear curve to make it pop like coming from an auto curve. Thanks again for your answer !
HI Paul, SO glad you picked a picture.Missed the live , due to a power failure. I hold my hand up to your comments on my Masking and Labelling and am duly contrite ! I am stuck on CAP 20 because ,like me, my MAC is old and so am unable to up date, but am still pleased with what I can do with version 20 and very much enjoy your videos. Thanks again.
Just watching now. I also missed the live due to a power outage here in Nairobi.... Thanks.... And another power outage - joining by phone hotspot -- will power up the old -- and always reliable -- Kirloskar Briggs & Stratton generator....
I have a comment about your last editing, specifically about "refine mask" as shown with the maple leaf. You drew the mask with the leaf and than used the tool to refine the mask. Later you copied "subject Mask 1" to get background and also refined the inverted mask. I use this method a lot for my animal pictures but found out, I get a better resolute if I copy the background before I refine the subject mask. Can't wait for the next session.
Hi Paul, thanks again for another great session. I have an additional question: Can I anywhere get a list of what are input, and what are output tools? Thank you!
Hello Paul, I saw during the video that someone was asking for advises about M1-2-3 chip. As for ram you suggested at least 16 gb. As hard drive I’d go for 256 and use some external drives. What about the display? I’d like the Apple display with a Mac Mini. I heard someone saying that Apple display is too glossy for photography. Now I use an iMac 27” dated 2015 with 24 gb of ram that I use mainly with C1, Affinity Photo 2 and Pixinsight for astrophotography. I’m also considering the new iMac M3 but the 24” display and the fact that, with a Mac mini + Apple display I’d replace the only Mini when needed, is slowing me down from this choice. Your opinion would be highly appreciated. Thanks
To be honest - there's not much in it :-) 254 or 255 - either way you're close to "unusable" when the exposure warning goes off, but both are better than the ultra-conservative 250 or 245 :-)
Well, arguably, the noise is bad in the CAMERA - it's just there are other tools that can "fix" noise "better" than Capture One right now (although I'd argue they often introduce side-effects that are somewhat undesirable). Fingers crossed, they'll build a new version/tool soon....!
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Thank you!
what a great lesson! Thank you!
Thanks Paul, another great session.
Thank you Paul Really helpful once again!
Hi Paul and everyone who reads the comment !
Thanks again Paul for that wonderful editing again !
It completed a lot what David Groover showed us with his own sessions about AI tools. I think it is there, a bit like it was with the new sytem cameras and their new 3D autofocus sytems. almost Everyone who earned those new cameras wanted only to work with the 3d autofocus and of course there were situations in which it did't work. Completely forgetting that in the last olympic games the 3d autofocus cameras did'nt exist , but the photographs made astonishing images, following their subjects with sometimes manual focus , its worked and everybody was satisfied! Now they all want to use the AI in capture one in every case 😉! the same thing !
I have really a question about the picture from the town in the night ! Usually in such a case, you take from the beginning the linear curve( instead of auto) when there is too much of contrast! was it here impossible or not good to do or to try it ??? i asked my question 3 times in the live chat ( i came too late with 20 minutes ) ,but people was occupied to answer the mac problem, so the answer of my question was blowing ine the wind ( dylan) 😂😂😂!!
I think i will send you one of my last picture in which i used the AI masking, to see if i did it well ! Thank you again for all Paul !!
Hi Francios,
Sorry we missed your question - so, it depends. If we're trying to make a city "pop", starting from a flat linear curve is a lot of work. So as long as the highlights/shadows can be protected (or recovered), there's no real issue with starting from a standard curve and then bringing in other sliders to correct (if they can).
...and if they can't, we then switch to Linear Response, and we can then add in contrast instead :-)
@@Paulreiffer Thanks a lot Paul for your answer. As i was thinking , yes it depends. Here there was obviously no highlights in danger , so the linear curve was not necessary. And like you said, : it is a lot of work after to come back from a linear curve to make it pop like coming from an auto curve. Thanks again for your answer !
HI Paul, SO glad you picked a picture.Missed the live , due to a power failure. I hold my hand up to your comments on my Masking and Labelling and am duly contrite ! I am stuck on CAP 20 because ,like me, my MAC is old and so am unable to up date, but am still pleased with what I can do with version 20 and very much enjoy your videos. Thanks again.
give auto-mask a try ;-) There's a video in our "pro tips" series that covers it in v20 and v21 ;-)
Just watching now. I also missed the live due to a power outage here in Nairobi.... Thanks.... And another power outage - joining by phone hotspot -- will power up the old -- and always reliable -- Kirloskar Briggs & Stratton generator....
Hi Paul even my MacBook Air M1 8GB works perfect with C1 🙂
I have a comment about your last editing, specifically about "refine mask" as shown with the maple leaf. You drew the mask with the leaf and than used the tool to refine the mask. Later you copied "subject Mask 1" to get background and also refined the inverted mask. I use this method a lot for my animal pictures but found out, I get a better resolute if I copy the background before I refine the subject mask.
Can't wait for the next session.
Hi Paul, thanks again for another great session. I have an additional question: Can I anywhere get a list of what are input, and what are output tools? Thank you!
Hello Paul, I saw during the video that someone was asking for advises about M1-2-3 chip. As for ram you suggested at least 16 gb. As hard drive I’d go for 256 and use some external drives. What about the display? I’d like the Apple display with a Mac Mini. I heard someone saying that Apple display is too glossy for photography. Now I use an iMac 27” dated 2015 with 24 gb of ram that I use mainly with C1, Affinity Photo 2 and Pixinsight for astrophotography.
I’m also considering the new iMac M3 but the 24” display and the fact that, with a Mac mini + Apple display I’d replace the only Mini when needed, is slowing me down from this choice.
Your opinion would be highly appreciated.
Thanks
Why set your clipping at 254 instead of 255? Thanks for all you do for us! ❤
So you have a buffer before its pure white.
To be honest - there's not much in it :-)
254 or 255 - either way you're close to "unusable" when the exposure warning goes off, but both are better than the ultra-conservative 250 or 245 :-)
What About the noise ?????? So bad in capture one
Well, arguably, the noise is bad in the CAMERA - it's just there are other tools that can "fix" noise "better" than Capture One right now (although I'd argue they often introduce side-effects that are somewhat undesirable).
Fingers crossed, they'll build a new version/tool soon....!