Suzanne, When I was a kid(dinosaurs were there) we had sickle mowers. I was taught to drive the first round on the outside of the field with the mower on the in side toward the middle of the field. This way, you are closer to the outside with the left tires and you can see what is in the field. Keep the outside of the left tires as far as you want to mow. Turn around and use the left side as your guide to cut the outside, tires right next to the uncut hay. The end of the cutter will be at the edge of where your tires were the first round. Turn around again and do the rest of the field exactly the same as you do in the video. This is very helpful in very tall heavy hay. But of course you are in charge of your own destiny. You do it how ever you want. It's your decision to make! Respectfully, Kevin
With taller Hay, I always run the tractor the way you started out with the cutter high, then turn around and drive the tractor side on fence rows to catch any limbs etc that may have fallen. I was surprized that you went with Stainless Steel fasteners. Just use Never Seize on regular Carbon Steel bolts, self locking nuts recommended. I have had decades of Equipment Inspection which involved SS fasteners. Trick is to use 304 grade Bolts and 307 grade nuts. Sometimes due to the toughness of the material you can screw a nut and bolt on with your fingers but even when red hot they will not unscrew. Thread cutting leaves small barbs going in opposite directions on the threads for disassembly. Not sure if the cheaper and slightly magnetic Offshore 400 series is the same. 316SS is higher in Nickle and more corrosion resistant in Chemical Service. You can purchase Deep 6 point sockets to tighten the first nut if you don't have one. Bolt seems a bit short to get into the locking portion of the top Nylock Nut. It should protrude 1-1/2 threads. I am so glad you succeeded in correcting the problems. Mark the blades and rotate bar left to right to see if there is excessive clearance in adjacent teeth. YOU did GOOD. That is likely a factory joint at the end of the bar. It should have been prepared as a V groove weld prep.
I'm glad your budget will allow you to get a discbine next year! Once you use it, you will wonder why you didn't get one sooner 🙂 As for what to buy, I wouldn't get anything bigger than around a nine foot cut, and pick one that looks like it was well maintained and you have good dealer/parts support nearby.
Another day, another field. You made it!!!! Diesel leftover and cutter bar didn’t break. As always your dedication and perseverance paid off! You never cease to amaze me! I would say what you’re seeing on the cutter bar is a factory defect. Since all your other bars seems to fail in somewhat the same place. I would say it’s due to hardness of the bar where the factory welds are and not a proper heat treating. I would check the hardness scale between the areas. Could be your weak link. Any way, you did it!!!! Proud of you!!! Wish there were more like you in Virgina!!! Some hay is better then no hay! Best of luck. Be safe, happy farming!
Well you can use a center punch and punch each part to see if it leaves about the same size dimple. Old fashion way, lol, they make a kit that look like little files but they are checking different hardness. You can find them in other youtube videos.
It was great to see that there was no exposed thread on the cutter bar bolts. The two at the end, either cut off the excess thread or add extra nuts.That way you'll get them undone when you need to. Rusty thread destroys the nuts or the bolt just snaps. Well done.
Farm girl I was told many years ago by a very wise man that the only dumb question is the one that you don't ask looks like your repair job is holding up 👍💪 enjoyed the video thanks for sharing
I'd surely be watching that "seam" closely; it's good you have a picture of it in case it fails. Otherwise, kudos on fixing that bad boy; proud of you! Great, fun video!!!
You know, now that you bring that up, I'm curious to see if the other cutterbars have seams that broke . . . they all seemed to break in the same place, and I still have the cutterbars . . . guess it would be worth taking a peak at ;D
@@This1LifeWeLive Yeah if the seam is found on other's cutters and it's a known "issue," the pics you have of it new are good insurance for a claim later if need be (keep receipt). If it's a weld/forged joint, it will be stronger than the rest of the bar, but possibly more brittle if not cooled properly....That said, I wouldn't give it a second thought... Work the hell out of it and if it breaks....Call Deere, and make another video about it! :0)
I've been using an older JD 630 Discbine for quite a few years and I'd highly recommend one, it has been very low maintenance. Regardless of which brand you choose I would recommend flail conditioners over rubber rolls...
Hi Sue if you are wanting to go back and forth in the field a center pivit design is what you want. Mine is a heaston massy ferguson 1372 which is an 11 foot cut. I agree with other commenters if all your going to cut is grass a conditioner is not needed. I have cut with just a disc mower (grass) and could have raked and baled right after it was cut, of course the temps were 100 + degrees good breeze longer daylight hours for example. As you know cooler temps and shorter days will need longer dry time. wish I could email you to explain more. As for a certain brand get what is local to you and parts are easy to get hope that makes sense. 👍
congrats on the future discbine/moco....you will never look back.....first big decision on a discbine is rollers or impellers do your homework...also look at cut height range since your cutting grass hay....hopefully your hay is drying good...
So glad things worked out, even with the one loose guard, at least you know why, I was happy to see you cutting back to the edge, keeps the usable size of the field, I, never realized you didn't have a method for diesel storage, makes it tough because of the small amount you use, are you convinced you're getting rid of that mower, even though it seems to be working?, if you afford it, I'd say a disc mower, but you may still have to replace the baler, anyway, this was great, can't wait for the next chapter
Well we do have a big diesel gravity tank, and usually fill it 2x a year. Spring and fall. Our company has been having lots of issues lately though as the business keeps selling :(
Hi, I am about halfway through your post and in case you cover this again I apologise. Get the fuel buy the auntie gel and conditioner add and recirculate your tank with your hose all mixed and good to go👍 🇨🇦 Craig stay safe and happy !!!
The fuel delivery guy is really good, and could tell me exactly what I need to get and he'd know what I usually buy. Maybe I should get some to keep on hand and have him come out with his normal delivery and he can help me mix it correctly :)
Hope u get this an addative best one is where it has the words deicer in large letters on the bottle , and just like your car add it to tank before filling the tank . First tank always stronger. Then should be good threw out the winter.
Make sure you torque down that bottom guard before putting it away for the winter. One less thing to try & remember before next season. Greetings from England.
@@This1LifeWeLive I knew if anyone could figure out what was going wrong, you could. Even after working on everything from your car and the other equipment , and smashing your thumb and you still finished up. I knew you would do it!
As far as fuel goes i just topped off my heating oil for $1.799 a gal . Howes Diesel fuel treatment you could simply just add a few jugs to your storage tank, and try and keep your tractor tank topped off to full when ever possible to reduce condensation build up.Drain your filter water drain on fuel water separator.
Yes your storage tank may have a fuel filter,but on your tractor it should have a primary filter with a water drain at the bottom of it then a secondary filter at a finer micron rating.Take a look at your owners manual to see if it has those 2 filter s. On most big truck s we have a Racor brand fuel water separator with a upside down glass bowl on top to view filter element when fuel level gets to top line,time to change it out.there is a drain spigot on bottom to drain water out.
As far as disc bine mowers my brother has a 3 point hitch a Kuhn model he likes it for very nimble around rough ground. Also i think more affordable than a tow behind model. I,m not sure how convenient hook up and unhook it is for your operation, he leaves his on his JD 2130 75hp all season long. Then again he is all about time effiecncy seems to like a tractor hooked to every implement.
Suzanne i have ran a 930 moco and mine is a 935 moco . They both have tine condition. And I would never go back to rollers . If looking look for signs of leakage and timing issues .
That is what I would suggest...I cut and bale 500 to 700 5×5 rd bales a year and use a Khrone 320 Easy Cut disc mower...I don't have no problem getting hay to cure here in eastern Okla..if I was going to buy another discbine I would most likley go with New Holland...I had a 1411 and it was a cutting machine...pulled it with a 7410 Deere...105 hp and 50 acres a day was a easy day.
“Winter” diesel is nothing more than #1 and #2 diesel blended together to lower the cloud point. It’s all done at the refinery. Given that you are in Michigan I suspect the refineries will switch to shipping “winter fuel” soon, if they haven’t already.
If you are in dire need of fuel see if they will splash blend #1 snd and #2 into your bulk tank. #1 is same as furnace fuel , im sure they ate filling homes thus time of year so they would be carrying it on their delivery trucks. If you need 250gals to fill your tank, have them put 200gals of #2, and 50gals of #1 ( or whatever mix you want)
look for off road diesel, it does not have road tax on it and should be cheaper than regular low sulfur diesel. it has a red color here in ky .you may have to put the additive in for winter yourself.
Get a disc mower with no conditioner or flails. It will be cheaper and less moving parts to break. You should not need to break the stems in the type of grass you cut to get it to dry down...
My self I would cut down the extra-long bolts so you can use a normal socket, I prefer machine flat washers and nylock nuts, the first four bolts get all the vibration from the drive head, again I would use Loctite for extra security.
Well I'd have to use an extra long socket anyway for the rest of the bolts since they have all the hold downs on them :) I used lock nuts on the top hold downs too :D
Cutie Blonde Farmgirl its truly amazing how you have grown into the farming role never thought you couldnt actually just the opposite. I love it knew you had it in you you have guts and grit. 😘
The best discbine was 3pt hitch style .. It takes up less room and it folds up and it takes corners a lot better .. But I would look at diffrent brands and styles available near you even look on the internet because you can find ones that will ship to your address and still be great price .. Watch videos on different brands .. I hope that helps but that what I would do ..
Suzanne. I said in past videos that I have been doing hay equipment at a Deere dealer for 41 years. If you are looking at discbines there are certain models that are more trouble free. I’m not sure if your looking at new or used. Used Deere’s I recommend are 925s, 926sor 630 Deere . Not knocking NH but they are made lighter and have there share of issues. I know they can be bought cheaper but there is a reason for that. I prefer impeller machines but seems like most want conditioning rolls. If you have questions I can help you with feel free to contact me 🙂
Hello there Wtfarmgirl, interesting video, hopefully you are having some good luck with the cutter bar, how did the hay turn out? 🚜🚜 I'm just taking off for work, you like Sam Hunt and Riley Green? Ingread Andress, she's really good
U did one heck of a good job on that mower.Dont know about the newer stuff. But my kuhn 1990 seemed outlasted many in area.but think was do to maintance.hope it outlasts me.
Looks like you are using nylon locking nuts . Those tend to come loose . We only use the all steel or mechanical lock nuts . Those still come loose but not nearly as quickly as the nylon or nylocks style of nuts
Claas 3 mower setup. That should get your hay done in no time or less. :-D Otherwise, don't really have a horse in that race. I know a little about them, but not enough to where I would feel qualified to suggest anything. One thing that does come to mind, you should do your mower shopping off season for a better price. From now 'till January or February would be about right.
If all you are going to grow is grass.....a disc mower would do.....All we Grow is fine stemed Bermuda Grass so a conditioner only helps moderately......without one, normally we bale on the third day...... Very few growers use conditioners in our area......
@@This1LifeWeLive Need 4wd down here. Need front end loader to make big money on hurricane cleanup, and bushhawg for my buddies field. And backhoe for digging. I'll get one early next year.🙂
I think you will be shopping for a used disc mower so you need to research the reliability of each model before buying as there are some real clunkers from every manufacturer. I don't do a lot of hay and as much as I would love a disc cutter, I can't justify so I get by with an old Haybine. Look at my nephew's Discbines with envy but he has 1,000 acres 2 to 3 crops, easy to justify. However, he did have a breakdown of both Discbines this year and asked me to finish 4 acres still standing that day because my 30 year old Haybine keeps on plugging away.
@@This1LifeWeLive No, no. It was owned and maintained by an Iowa farmer for 30 years. We made a 1100 mile round trip to buy it in June because everyone I found closer was junk. Last year we bought one of those junkers and it exploded after 4 acres. Parts to repair would be double what we paid. Expensive lesson.
I agree with most of the others here. Buy a NEW 3-point, probably 9 ft, disc mower. It's the right size for your acreage. And it's way more convenient to use. AND as others have said, on that light grass hay you don't need a conditioner (impeller). Why NEW? I have been looking for a GOOD used 16 ft disc machine for several yrs. I haven't found a GOOD one yet. It's VERY expensive to rebuild the "turtles", the gearboxes that run the knives. For a small acreage (seeing as you seem to be able to afford it😁), get a NEW one. Honestly, I have cut a lot of 6 to 10 ft high Sudan and cane hay with a sickle bar mower/conditioner and I NEVER had problems like you've had. As you said it doesn't really matter now what's causing the issue on the JD. Move on, Suzanne! Life is short!
older johndeere 1360 conditioner mower ........good mower ........built like a tank ...........built in france by kuhn and painted green .......................a good kuhn mounted disc mower without conditioner , saya kuhn 600 heavy duty headstock and topservicable bed , also a very good mower ....................you will never look back when you get a disc mower ........kuhn , or johndeere , gets my vote .......
@@This1LifeWeLive kuhn make a heavy duty mounted mower has a triangle headstock ......the lighter one has a round headstock ......non conditioner mowers are simpler to work and lighter and less likely to breakup ..........also cost a lot less and are much simpler .........good 4 basket tedder to ted the hay after is also a must have ..............hay thats not been through a conditioner does not get spoiled as bad if it gets rained on .............have both mowers here .......use the non conditioner mower mostly ............only use the conditioner mower for pit silage as it puts out nice rows for the wagon to pick up .........kuhn or deere , after that krone .......
most implements will automatically roll the second you detach them from the tractor. If it continued to shift then I do chock them :) The jack stand usually keeps them from moving :)
For mowers 2.8m or a 3m Pottinger or mchale all the way never let me down we put sirise grass though them they built to last hold there value biult to a very high standard and quality. And parts are so easy to get hold off McHale are wold none for there machines
OOPs. That is one of the hazards of working on things when you have people/animals/kids around, you forget something. One of the reasons I learned the phrase "Leave me along while I'm working"
It should be ok pH wise. It's stayed consistently at 6.4. I'll add wood ash over winter from all the neighbors and that will lower it a bit too I think :)
No, No, No..... Don't WELD on the NEW cutter bar. You could damage it beyond repair !!! Typical Farm-use 'Stick-welding' (always done in the oxygen rich atmosphere) will ruin the heat treated hardening of the production metal the bar is made from. I suspect the seam your seeing, that your believing is a "Factory Flaw", is not a flaw but a factory weld, after metal finishing. Using a commercial production MIG welder, not a Harbor Freight MIG welder without any means of inert-gas shielding from oxygen exposure. The seam, and this welding method, is necessary to join two separate pieces of the bar, which are made with different carbon content within the steel. The stronger steel is used at the drive-end to resist the higher vibration caused by the drive motion. Which is, the main reason that sickle-bar mowers end up in the resale lots. That being said…. Many many tiny farms, with only a few acres of hay have been mowed with sickle-bar equipment for decades. Modern Combines still use sickle-bar crop cutting, with huge cutting widths, and better balanced designs for drive systems. The main reason…. It’s quick, easy, and cheap to replace a cutter knife, in the-field, with little down time. The costly repair on your cutter knife system will NOT likely increase the resale or trade-in value of the machine. But, it could last years for years of service. The machine is beyond normal life-cycle so expect to make additional repairs. Just be glad your operation is not the primary income source, and downtime is not a big-deal, compared to and actual Farm-for-profit operation. Also, certainly be aware that disc-cutter mowers also have a life-cycle and are much more complicated and costly to repair. And, they also do-not-like uncut-able objects, usually rocks or stones. Sorry for the long winded comment.
Awesome! Congratulations! You not only fixed it, but became an expert just in time to get rid of it! Geez, even I'M relieved! Go have a Coors light!
Suzanne, When I was a kid(dinosaurs were there) we had sickle mowers. I was taught to drive the first round on the outside of the field with the mower on the in side toward the middle of the field. This way, you are closer to the outside with the left tires and you can see what is in the field. Keep the outside of the left tires as far as you want to mow. Turn around and use the left side as your guide to cut the outside, tires right next to the uncut hay. The end of the cutter will be at the edge of where your tires were the first round. Turn around again and do the rest of the field exactly the same as you do in the video. This is very helpful in very tall heavy hay.
But of course you are in charge of your own destiny. You do it how ever you want. It's your decision to make!
Respectfully, Kevin
So very happy the fix not only worked, but allowed self adjustment on the blades and covers. Glad that one is done! Take Cate
I'm glad too!
Love your positive attitude.
It’s always great to see you work though stuff.👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you Suzanne. You have a wonderful day and a good weekend!
Thank you! You too!
Nice job, looks like your repairs worked just fine. Good luck on getting your next piece of equipment.
Take care!
Love your honestly. We all forget things.
With taller Hay, I always run the tractor the way you started out with the cutter high, then turn around and drive the tractor side on fence rows to catch any limbs etc that may have fallen.
I was surprized that you went with Stainless Steel fasteners. Just use Never Seize on regular Carbon Steel bolts, self locking nuts recommended. I have had decades of Equipment Inspection which involved SS fasteners. Trick is to use 304 grade Bolts and 307 grade nuts. Sometimes due to the toughness of the material you can screw a nut and bolt on with your fingers but even when red hot they will not unscrew. Thread cutting leaves small barbs going in opposite directions on the threads for disassembly. Not sure if the cheaper and slightly magnetic Offshore 400 series is the same. 316SS is higher in Nickle and more corrosion resistant in Chemical Service. You can purchase Deep 6 point sockets to tighten the first nut if you don't have one. Bolt seems a bit short to get into the locking portion of the top Nylock Nut. It should protrude 1-1/2 threads.
I am so glad you succeeded in correcting the problems. Mark the blades and rotate bar left to right to see if there is excessive clearance in adjacent teeth. YOU did GOOD. That is likely a factory joint at the end of the bar. It should have been prepared as a V groove weld prep.
I don't yet have much experience with anti-seize and farm equipment, so I didn't want to take any chances, lol!
Hey WT Farm Girl!👋 Good job on repairing the cutter bar on the john deer accept for the one that was moving around, but thats fine you'll get it! 😆❤👍
yeah! I'm learning not to wait on things because I'll forget, lol!
I'm glad your budget will allow you to get a discbine next year! Once you use it, you will wonder why you didn't get one sooner 🙂 As for what to buy, I wouldn't get anything bigger than around a nine foot cut, and pick one that looks like it was well maintained and you have good dealer/parts support nearby.
Very good tips! Parts locally is always a good thing!
I totally agree. A nine to eleven foot would work perfect for your operation.
We use a New Holland H 7230 diskbine. Very reliable. It's I believe a eleven footer
Another day, another field. You made it!!!! Diesel leftover and cutter bar didn’t break. As always your dedication and perseverance paid off! You never cease to amaze me! I would say what you’re seeing on the cutter bar is a factory defect. Since all your other bars seems to fail in somewhat the same place. I would say it’s due to hardness of the bar where the factory welds are and not a proper heat treating. I would check the hardness scale between the areas. Could be your weak link. Any way, you did it!!!! Proud of you!!! Wish there were more like you in Virgina!!! Some hay is better then no hay! Best of luck. Be safe, happy farming!
how would I check the hardness??
Well you can use a center punch and punch each part to see if it leaves about the same size dimple. Old fashion way, lol, they make a kit that look like little files but they are checking different hardness. You can find them in other youtube videos.
It was great to see that there was no exposed thread on the cutter bar bolts. The two at the end, either cut off the excess thread or
add extra nuts.That way you'll get them undone when you need to. Rusty thread destroys the nuts or the bolt just snaps.
Well done.
Farm girl I was told many years ago by a very wise man that the only dumb question is the one that you don't ask looks like your repair job is holding up 👍💪 enjoyed the video thanks for sharing
Great job on the repairs to the mower .another great video
Glad you enjoyed it!
I'd surely be watching that "seam" closely; it's good you have a picture of it in case it fails. Otherwise, kudos on fixing that bad boy; proud of you! Great, fun video!!!
You know, now that you bring that up, I'm curious to see if the other cutterbars have seams that broke . . . they all seemed to break in the same place, and I still have the cutterbars . . . guess it would be worth taking a peak at ;D
@@This1LifeWeLive Yeah if the seam is found on other's cutters and it's a known "issue," the pics you have of it new are good insurance for a claim later if need be (keep receipt). If it's a weld/forged joint, it will be stronger than the rest of the bar, but possibly more brittle if not cooled properly....That said, I wouldn't give it a second thought... Work the hell out of it and if it breaks....Call Deere, and make another video about it! :0)
Here in Holland ,we have 1 sort of diesel nowdays. For summer and winter. X
Mower works, got the field done, and you reviewed your repair, good job, next is rake the field,, :D
You got that right!
I've been using an older JD 630 Discbine for quite a few years and I'd highly recommend one, it has been very low maintenance. Regardless of which brand you choose I would recommend flail conditioners over rubber rolls...
Hi Sue if you are wanting to go back and forth in the field a center pivit design is what you want. Mine is a heaston massy ferguson 1372 which is an 11 foot cut. I agree with other commenters if all your going to cut is grass a conditioner is not needed. I have cut with just a disc mower (grass) and could have raked and baled right after it was cut, of course the temps were 100 + degrees good breeze longer daylight hours for example. As you know cooler temps and shorter days will need longer dry time. wish I could email you to explain more. As for a certain brand get what is local to you and parts are easy to get hope that makes sense. 👍
Thank you!
You took it apart an put it back together an it works HEY,,,,😀
congrats on the future discbine/moco....you will never look back.....first big decision on a discbine is rollers or impellers do your homework...also look at cut height range since your cutting grass hay....hopefully your hay is drying good...
So glad things worked out, even with the one loose guard, at least you know why, I was happy to see you cutting back to the edge, keeps the usable size of the field, I, never realized you didn't have a method for diesel storage, makes it tough because of the small amount you use, are you convinced you're getting rid of that mower, even though it seems to be working?, if you afford it, I'd say a disc mower, but you may still have to replace the baler, anyway, this was great, can't wait for the next chapter
Well we do have a big diesel gravity tank, and usually fill it 2x a year. Spring and fall. Our company has been having lots of issues lately though as the business keeps selling :(
Gotcha,
Hi, I am about halfway through your post and in case you cover this again I apologise. Get the fuel buy the auntie gel and conditioner add and recirculate your tank with your hose all mixed and good to go👍 🇨🇦 Craig stay safe and happy !!!
She is farming in Michigan and, I believe, a bit South of mid-state. Does that make it Southern Michigan?
The fuel delivery guy is really good, and could tell me exactly what I need to get and he'd know what I usually buy. Maybe I should get some to keep on hand and have him come out with his normal delivery and he can help me mix it correctly :)
Nah, lol, mid western michigan, hahaha!
@@This1LifeWeLive I know exactly where your farm is but was trying not to be TOO Specific for your security, Sue.
Hope u get this an addative best one is where it has the words deicer in large letters on the bottle , and just like your car add it to tank before filling the tank . First tank always stronger. Then should be good threw out the winter.
Archery season here...all the bucks disappeared 🤔
Really! Ours stick around a few weeks until nov 1, lol
@@This1LifeWeLive irritating
what about a kubota Dm 5032 it is just a disc mower we have one and we love it
Great video 👍
Another great vid!
Glad you enjoyed!
You might check out the Kuhn demo on How Farms Works.
Make sure you torque down that bottom guard before putting it away for the winter. One less thing to try & remember before next season. Greetings from England.
You'd better believe I did :D
Did a great job on the cutter bar.
Thanks!
@@This1LifeWeLive I knew if anyone could figure out what was going wrong, you could. Even after working on everything from your car and the other equipment , and smashing your thumb and you still finished up. I knew you would do it!
As far as fuel goes i just topped off my heating oil for $1.799 a gal . Howes Diesel fuel treatment you could simply just add a few jugs to your storage tank, and try and keep your tractor tank topped off to full when ever possible to reduce condensation build up.Drain your filter water drain on fuel water separator.
I only have 1 filter on the tank . . . I thought it was for particles though?
Yes your storage tank may have a fuel filter,but on your tractor it should have a primary filter with a water drain at the bottom of it then a secondary filter at a finer micron rating.Take a look at your owners manual to see if it has those 2 filter s. On most big truck s we have a Racor brand fuel water separator with a upside down glass bowl on top to view filter element when fuel level gets to top line,time to change it out.there is a drain spigot on bottom to drain water out.
As far as disc bine mowers my brother has a 3 point hitch a Kuhn model he likes it for very nimble around rough ground. Also i think more affordable than a tow behind model. I,m not sure how convenient hook up and unhook it is for your operation, he leaves his on his JD 2130 75hp all season long. Then again he is all about time effiecncy seems to like a tractor hooked to every implement.
I'll have to look into it!
Did you get the PH done on the field. Or was it just lack of rain 🤔 good job on the hay choppie thing😉😄 anyhoo happy Friday neighbor 👍👍✌✌🙏❤
JF wonderful machine . No gearbox .simple and so tough .
I will have to look them up!
Is you T4 a -75 or a -115 ?
It surely takes a lot of work to keep a farm working.
I Use Power Service in my fuel
Suzanne i have ran a 930 moco and mine is a 935 moco .
They both have tine condition.
And I would never go back to rollers . If looking look for signs of leakage and timing issues .
Erik is thinking tines too!
@@This1LifeWeLive tines will cut a day off of dying .
I would look for a 3 point disc mower instead of a discbine. Reason I say that is you only cut grass
That is what I would suggest...I cut and bale 500 to 700 5×5 rd bales a year and use a Khrone 320 Easy Cut disc mower...I don't have no problem getting hay to cure here in eastern Okla..if I was going to buy another discbine I would most likley go with New Holland...I had a 1411 and it was a cutting machine...pulled it with a 7410 Deere...105 hp and 50 acres a day was a easy day.
I would weld a small piece of iron on that side where you see a small crack coming.
“Winter” diesel is nothing more than #1 and #2 diesel blended together to lower the cloud point. It’s all done at the refinery. Given that you are in Michigan I suspect the refineries will switch to shipping “winter fuel” soon, if they haven’t already.
They haven't yet . . . which is odd considering temps have been getting down to 30 at night :(
If you are in dire need of fuel see if they will splash blend #1 snd and #2 into your bulk tank. #1 is same as furnace fuel , im sure they ate filling homes thus time of year so they would be carrying it on their delivery trucks. If you need 250gals to fill your tank, have them put 200gals of #2, and 50gals of #1 ( or whatever mix you want)
If you can wait , just go to the local gas station and get 20-30gallons to get you by until they switch over to winter fuel.
look for off road diesel, it does not have road tax on it and should be cheaper than regular low sulfur diesel. it has a red color here in ky .you may have to put the additive in for winter yourself.
I think she already stocks off road Diesel in her farm storage tank.I,m glad Suzanne caught and corrected herself and said fuel left over and not gas.
Off road diesel is hard to find at the pumps, but 10 gallons won't break the bank, and that's all it took during baling :D
Get a disc mower with no conditioner or flails. It will be cheaper and less moving parts to break. You should not need to break the stems in the type of grass you cut to get it to dry down...
My self I would cut down the extra-long bolts so you can use a normal socket, I prefer machine flat washers and nylock nuts, the first four bolts get all the vibration from the drive head, again I would use Loctite for extra security.
Well I'd have to use an extra long socket anyway for the rest of the bolts since they have all the hold downs on them :) I used lock nuts on the top hold downs too :D
Cutie Blonde Farmgirl its truly amazing how you have grown into the farming role never thought you couldnt actually just the opposite. I love it knew you had it in you you have guts and grit. 😘
Baling, as usual, was MUCH worse, haha
The best discbine was 3pt hitch style .. It takes up less room and it folds up and it takes corners a lot better .. But I would look at diffrent brands and styles available near you even look on the internet because you can find ones that will ship to your address and still be great price .. Watch videos on different brands .. I hope that helps but that what I would do ..
Totally agree
Suzanne. I said in past videos that I have been doing hay equipment at a Deere dealer for 41 years. If you are looking at discbines there are certain models that are more trouble free. I’m not sure if your looking at new or used. Used Deere’s I recommend are 925s, 926sor 630 Deere . Not knocking NH but they are made lighter and have there share of issues. I know they can be bought cheaper but there is a reason for that. I prefer impeller machines but seems like most want conditioning rolls. If you have questions I can help you with feel free to contact me 🙂
Awesome🍀🌱🍃 🚜
Hello there Wtfarmgirl, interesting video, hopefully you are having some good luck with the cutter bar, how did the hay turn out? 🚜🚜 I'm just taking off for work, you like Sam Hunt and Riley Green? Ingread Andress, she's really good
You go girl
THanks!
U did one heck of a good job on that mower.Dont know about the newer stuff. But my kuhn 1990 seemed outlasted many in area.but think was do to maintance.hope it outlasts me.
I think you're right, good maintenance goes a long way!
New Holland
Looks like you are using nylon locking nuts . Those tend to come loose . We only use the all steel or mechanical lock nuts . Those still come loose but not nearly as quickly as the nylon or nylocks style of nuts
New Holland is good
Claas 3 mower setup. That should get your hay done in no time or less. :-D Otherwise, don't really have a horse in that race. I know a little about them, but not enough to where I would feel qualified to suggest anything. One thing that does come to mind, you should do your mower shopping off season for a better price. From now 'till January or February would be about right.
This is true, although on the flip side there are also fewer up for sale :(
@@This1LifeWeLive True, but don't forget the fall consignment auctions. Seem to be enough of those this year.
i enjoy listening to to you an watching you ;; dont know where you are located peoples comments seem to be good
I am in Mid Michigan :D
@@This1LifeWeLive sounds like you are a real smart person with a lot of common sense;; keep it up
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If all you are going to grow is grass.....a disc mower would do.....All we Grow is fine stemed Bermuda Grass so a conditioner only helps moderately......without one, normally we bale on the third day...... Very few growers use conditioners in our area......
Erik was thinking the metal tine conditioners :)
@@This1LifeWeLive If we ever get one it will be that type...My neighbor has a Kuhn trail type.
Sweet cute
I have tractor envy, need one badly.😔
Hey, there's no shame in starting with something old and well used :D As long as it runs, that's all that matters!
@@This1LifeWeLive Need 4wd down here. Need front end loader to make big money on hurricane cleanup, and bushhawg for my buddies field. And backhoe for digging. I'll get one early next year.🙂
Pour some cooking oil on the blades so they don't rust
Wtfarm girl is there a lock washers on that how's the Baylor
I have nylon lock nuts on the top. The baler was a whole lotta mess, lol! Even brought in a stunt devil!
Sounds like U need Suz the Noob girl to help U out !! LOL !!
Just cut your diesel with kerasone , 1 or 2 galon a tank
I think you will be shopping for a used disc mower so you need to research the reliability of each model before buying as there are some real clunkers from every manufacturer. I don't do a lot of hay and as much as I would love a disc cutter, I can't justify so I get by with an old Haybine. Look at my nephew's Discbines with envy but he has 1,000 acres 2 to 3 crops, easy to justify. However, he did have a breakdown of both Discbines this year and asked me to finish 4 acres still standing that day because my 30 year old Haybine keeps on plugging away.
sounds like you ahve a great haybine and have kept it well maintained too!
@@This1LifeWeLive No, no. It was owned and maintained by an Iowa farmer for 30 years. We made a 1100 mile round trip to buy it in June because everyone I found closer was junk. Last year we bought one of those junkers and it exploded after 4 acres. Parts to repair would be double what we paid. Expensive lesson.
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If you do have to jerry jug from the gas station, see if there are any that sell off road diesel and save the tax money.
I agree with most of the others here. Buy a NEW 3-point, probably 9 ft, disc mower. It's the right size for your acreage. And it's way more convenient to use. AND as others have said, on that light grass hay you don't need a conditioner (impeller). Why NEW? I have been looking for a GOOD used 16 ft disc machine for several yrs. I haven't found a GOOD one yet. It's VERY expensive to rebuild the "turtles", the gearboxes that run the knives. For a small acreage (seeing as you seem to be able to afford it😁), get a NEW one.
Honestly, I have cut a lot of 6 to 10 ft high Sudan and cane hay with a sickle bar mower/conditioner and I NEVER had problems like you've had. As you said it doesn't really matter now what's causing the issue on the JD. Move on, Suzanne! Life is short!
Looks like you have it fixed why sell it? disc bine's are in high demand and they have issue's as well. May be you want a wider one.
Well this is true. Discbines are hard to find used ones (decently priced) out here.
That was funny scared the pants off you
Contractor s need mulch hay too...js
I've had no luck selling cheap hay. I tried selling bales last year for $1.50 each and it took 2 weeks.
@@This1LifeWeLive yea it only sells to lawn install guys or contractors..thoe in your state no body building anything good..js
older johndeere 1360 conditioner mower ........good mower ........built like a tank ...........built in france by kuhn and painted green .......................a good kuhn mounted disc mower without conditioner , saya kuhn 600 heavy duty headstock and topservicable bed , also a very good mower ....................you will never look back when you get a disc mower ........kuhn , or johndeere , gets my vote .......
Thanks for the info!
@@This1LifeWeLive kuhn make a heavy duty mounted mower has a triangle headstock ......the lighter one has a round headstock ......non conditioner mowers are simpler to work and lighter and less likely to breakup ..........also cost a lot less and are much simpler .........good 4 basket tedder to ted the hay after is also a must have ..............hay thats not been through a conditioner does not get spoiled as bad if it gets rained on .............have both mowers here .......use the non conditioner mower mostly ............only use the conditioner mower for pit silage as it puts out nice rows for the wagon to pick up .........kuhn or deere , after that krone .......
You were kind of making me nervous being under that machine without wheel chocks and jack stands
most implements will automatically roll the second you detach them from the tractor. If it continued to shift then I do chock them :) The jack stand usually keeps them from moving :)
U and Rhonda from acres of clay look a lot alike are you related
Funny thing i got to meet both in the same day,both great people love what they do.
Probably Michigan genetics, lol
All ya fixes work ... for ‘bout 5 mins 😆😆😆🙈👊🏻💪🏻
Jelly Belly, much?
so far so good :D
WT Farm Girl Videos it’s awesome watching ya tackling them as they come up. Ingenuity right there 👍🏻👊🏻💪🏻
For mowers 2.8m or a 3m Pottinger or mchale all the way never let me down we put sirise grass though them they built to last hold there value biult to a very high standard and quality. And parts are so easy to get hold off McHale are wold none for there machines
The McHAle guys are super nice. I always chat with them at the Farm shows :D
@@This1LifeWeLive I would highly recommend McHale honestly job company they have there heads screwed on
Stay away from the New Holland. Not a good design internally on the cutter bar
ya it look like crack to me
OOPs. That is one of the hazards of working on things when you have people/animals/kids around, you forget something. One of the reasons I learned the phrase "Leave me along while I'm working"
Lime it
But avoid LYME like the plague(Covid)
It should be ok pH wise. It's stayed consistently at 6.4. I'll add wood ash over winter from all the neighbors and that will lower it a bit too I think :)
No, No, No..... Don't WELD on the NEW cutter bar. You could damage it beyond repair !!! Typical Farm-use 'Stick-welding' (always done in the oxygen rich atmosphere) will ruin the heat treated hardening of the production metal the bar is made from. I suspect the seam your seeing, that your believing is a "Factory Flaw", is not a flaw but a factory weld, after metal finishing. Using a commercial production MIG welder, not a Harbor Freight MIG welder without any means of inert-gas shielding from oxygen exposure. The seam, and this welding method, is necessary to join two separate pieces of the bar, which are made with different carbon content within the steel. The stronger steel is used at the drive-end to resist the higher vibration caused by the drive motion. Which is, the main reason that sickle-bar mowers end up in the resale lots.
That being said…. Many many tiny farms, with only a few acres of hay have been mowed with sickle-bar equipment for decades. Modern Combines still use sickle-bar crop cutting, with huge cutting widths, and better balanced designs for drive systems. The main reason…. It’s quick, easy, and cheap to replace a cutter knife, in the-field, with little down time.
The costly repair on your cutter knife system will NOT likely increase the resale or trade-in value of the machine. But, it could last years for years of service. The machine is beyond normal life-cycle so expect to make additional repairs. Just be glad your operation is not the primary income source, and downtime is not a big-deal, compared to and actual Farm-for-profit operation.
Also, certainly be aware that disc-cutter mowers also have a life-cycle and are much more complicated and costly to repair. And, they also do-not-like uncut-able objects, usually rocks or stones.
Sorry for the long winded comment.
Stay away from Bush hog mowers, cheaper to buy but higher maintains cost.
Good noon 🆒🫴🏾💪🏾👏🏾🙏🏾🔜😎🤳🏾 how you doing your still planning and working on something else ever whatever yourself 😁❤