Apigaurd Mite Treatment Results and Late Summer Colony Assessments
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ก.ย. 2021
- A follow up on our "Using Apiguard for Varroa Mite Treatment" video, this video shows the treatment results and how we manage our colonies in late summer.
Apiguard, www.dadant.com/catalog/m01481...
www.vita-europe.com/beehealth...
Varroa EasyCheck, www.mannlakeltd.com/varroa-ea...
Hearing your queen longevity stories makes me understand why you want to requeen every year, but then that makes me wonder what is different between your operation and Ian's in Canada, that lets his queens often last for years and then naturally supercede to more good queens much of the time?
Is it the breed? The way he raises the queens? Something about the colony management?
The thing that comes to mind as I am thinking about it is the possibility that the cold winter in the shed up there gives the queen a break, a few months on the beach getting fed and cozy warm in the center of the cluster.
Maybe yours are laying more total eggs since the weather is better, or they just don't get that winter rest, and so they wear out faster?
It would be interesting to see if there is a major difference in eggs layed per year in warm climates compared to cold shed wintered.
It also makes it more clear I think that queen replacement is more than just a preference, but it needs to be based on the actual conditions in the area.
Hi Ben. Several things here. We actually don't really have a longevity problem. Every beekeeper, and I'm sure Ian too, has some second year queens poop out. I should have given a better description in the video. It looks like all of our second year queens are done but many are still doing OK. We just want to replace them all to increase the overwintering success and spring performance. What we find is that when queens begin to fail it's usually second year queens or older and not first year queens. However, you're correct in that southern queens may not last as long because of the extended season. Brother Adam talked about restricting the laying of breeder queens so they would last a lot longer.
Also, messing with queens in the late summer and fall is something we have time to do. Ian's short season doesn't give him much time for that. I like the way he culls out poor performing colonies that could have older queens in the spring instead of trying to fix them in the fall and then splitting those colonies to replace losses.
00000!! Great job Bob, Jesse, Seth & John! Thanks for the great videos fellas!
You are doing excellent, important work with these videos Bob. Thank you!
Thank you very much for the great video and the wonderful Apiguard update! 👍
Good report Bob ! I think the nice cool down the past weeks here in Tennessee has been a blessing for the impact of Apiguard. Washes look great, OAV around Thanksgiving ought to get 'er done, thanks Bob.
The professor speaks. Thank you Mr Binnie. Texas loves ya. God bless you
God bless Texas!
Thanks Bob, another quality video
Really informative video. This isn’t only about apiguard. You’ve touched on a lot of good topics, especially pertaining to late requeening and winter prep. I’ve had good luck with apiguard on my overwintered nucs. Still using formic on production colonies.
That's great results!! Thanks Bob!!
thanks Bob I got into the six hives I got last week this is the lost candler man I felt honored just working with the girls you and your men have worked on the one box that was sort of old will be going on my wall with one other box I got from a man named Sherman tweed who got me started in bees you elevated my skills to a great level thanks
Great video as always!
Really enjoyed this video! A lot of great information. Congratulations on the success with Apiguard too!
Thank you.
Bob Binnie, thanks again for a super video. You did a wonderful job not only showing exactly what you are doing,but why you did it and how.
My wife actually watched this video with me, but being a typical wife, said if you explained things in a calm voice and like him, I might show an interest 😄
I learn something important from each of your videos. Thank you for including so much great info. I have been thinking about where I put my apiguard dish in my hives. Then I watched this video. I am feeding with buckets and will get in there today to offset the apiguard away from the feeding bucket.
Good video thanks!
With regards to absconding risks of this product. I had the same happen as you did 2 years ago. I followed their directions and lost 2/3 of my small hobby apiary. Weather was still warm, and now with your experience, I think I probably have a better understanding of what may have happened. So thanks again for this video.
Always appreciate you sharing past failure stories. Helps minimize my failures. Also, would love to see a video on how you’re going to use propolis traps. I purchased a couple myself.
We've started putting them on and will show the results. Thanks.
Thank you for sharing your experience. Very helpful
Ha Bob thanks for this video. I was afraid to use Apiguard but it worked for u thanks for every thing u do.
Wise words. . Don’t assume the treatment worked. I learned that the hard way.
Me too. After preaching to others, I failed to follow my own advice, and paid the price!
I'm in my 1st year, I went from 1 hive to 6 and 3 nuk's I started. My bees are growing faster than my learning curve. Your videos are so helpful, My words of appreciation are lacking. Haven't been able to find a mentor so Thank You from a 70 yr old Okie NewBee keeper 🐝
👍
Thanks Bob!
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Bob
Good stuff
Good video. We removed our honey supers in Cochrane , Alberta and we had deeps weighing 128 lbs. now I understand why a beekeeper goes with mediums. Im not 20 year old again. Ugh !
خير من اللة شغلك والله انتة شخص رأع
I get a good amount of propulis from a screened upper inner cover they build a 1 to 2 in band around the outside of it. I am on the west coast of Florida.
I have had great success with apiguard over last couple years myself. I am thankful you shared about feeding while treating as that answers that question for me. I have had colonies drag those cards down thru a medium and deep then out the entrance before. I have a colony from last year that had 83 mites in wash(0 after treatment) and it had drones flying all winter. It makes alot of bees and I used it this spring to boost 7 colonies and make 2 nucs with capped broood and nurse bees and it still has alot of bees. Thank you for another outstanding video.
So valuable knowledge! Thanks from Germany:-)
Its interessting that the "
total brood removal" as a method of varroa Treatment is not shown in U.S. TH-cam Videos. Greetings from abroad. Gerd (Germany)
Thumbs up for your Videos Bob.
@@langstroth-obertraegerHi Gerd, bestimmt zu viel materialbedarf bei so großen betrieben...könnte ich mir vorstellen... bin momentan auch nicht mehr ganz so positiv begeistert davon. Hatte bei einigen völkern einen echten einbruch nach der brutentnahme dieses jahr, weil die kös es nicht mehr gebracht haben die völker neu aufzubauen. Aber irgendwas passiert auch immer😅 gruß aus dem sauerland, Flo🙋♂️
@@imkereistappert3183
Man kann den Ausspruch von Karl Kerle aka Bruder Adam erweitern: Zu jedem Standort die geeignete Biene, Beute und Varroa Behandlung.
Thymol hat einen schlechten Ruf. Eher was für Imker die noch Drohnenschneiden. B.t.w., die TBE ist D bei Berufsimkern Stand der Technik.
Eben ohne Abhängigkeit zur Aussentemperatur.
Auch die TBE muss richtig durchgeführt werden. Rakf Sester hat es gut und ausführlich erklärt. LG, Gerd
@@langstroth-obertraeger ja, wegen des geruchs u den brutverlusten. Ist auch meine prägung. Kannte diese schaumform allerdings nicht u bin erstmal offen das anzzschauen, weil mich bisher nix 100% zufrieden stimmt u der wissensdurst ja nicht weniger wird🙂 Bei den berufsimkern die ich kenne ist eher amitraz standart. Redet nur keiner drüber, weil in deutschland fast alle nen kasper bekommen wenn sie chemie hören. Ist aber tatsächlich weltweit das meistverwendete mittel meines wissens. Die zucht bleibt unsere größte hoffnung denk ich:-) grüße!
@@imkereistappert3183
Geht mir auch so. Schau mir die Sachen an und bilde meine eigene Meinung.
It used to be very effective in my hivesfor years. I don't quite know why it didn't work the last time. This year I used a six week treatment of Apivar instead and it will be interesting to see what the mite loads will be. I'm giving the hives two weeks before doing the mite count.
I've decided to do an open feed during treatment. After two weeks, I'll transition to closed feed.
Bob, have been using Apiguard since it was first available. We here in Ireland are now limited to 25g dose trays 2 per colony (regardless of colony size) Vet rules here in the EU. I have found that there HAS to be some roof ventilation or it has a negative effect on the bees. Mite washes after treatment always show some mites, I will live with that rather than dead colonies!
Yes, I have used it from the beginning. We use 25 grams in hot weather. In cooler weather 50 grams works OK for us.
I find that a push in cage is the best way to introduce a queen through out the season only bee keeper error causes it not to work. Cheers Bob
Thanks, and yes we have beekeeper error occasionally.
Bob try putting a small amount of Apigaurd above the propolis trap. I wonder?
Thanks for your reply A week ago concerning mite treatment. The treatment is underway. However, I do find myself with yet another problem. My other hive has no eggs no larvae and no queen. I would appreciate your comment for this. Again I live in north central Alabama. Thank you
You may have time to allow them to raise a queen by giving them some eggs from your other colony, if they still have plenty of bees. At least you could have fun trying. Just give them a patch of eggs and see what they do with it. If they do nothing I would combine them with another colony. Good luck.
I’ll be in touch have a good day
Ha Bob I am back I live in Virginia, I am removing the apivar from my hives and doing queen assessments how many frames of capped brood are u happy with going into the winter there in Ga. I have some 4-5 and some 2 I told u where I live to help u know what temp and weather we have here. I am feeding 1-1 and pollen patties here to help them build up. If u lived here when would u stop the patties. where I live there is no 2nd flow we have 1 main flow it starts in April and is over in June and it is from the trees Thanks so much for the videos I just watch them over and over they are great have a blessed week and thanks for taking the time to do the videos and answering all my questions u are great
Hi Frances. I think 4 to 5 frames of brood is good. I might question the ones with only 2. That seems a bit small but if they are healthy, and low on mites, perhaps they will make it through winter with what will be a smaller population. If you have golden rod, or other pollen coming in the patties are probably not needed. If not, they are probably a good idea. Thanks.
@@bobbinnie9872 Thank you have a Blessed week
Thx for the video. Mites have been low in our area thus far this year too. I have not treated with anything and hope not to until attrition. I don't know of anyone in my area with high mite loads and yah got to wonder if last year's drought and the heavy colony failure over winter actually help reduce mites too.
Did you get the dosing guns?
Hi Diane. Yes, they look very interesting and we're looking forward to trying them. Thank you.
3 weeks and no videos from Mr. Binnie is rough. I hope all is well. God bless you 🙏!!
All is well, thanks. Lots of traveling the last three weeks has slowed me down on videos. I've got a couple in the works.
@@bobbinnie9872 Awesome!! I'll be looking forward to it! You are awesome Mr. Binnie. Thanks for sharing your art of bee keeping.
Funny, I had successfully used apigard for August/September treatments for two years. This year I lost 3 of 9 colonies after first dose. I'd never read to change dose due to high temps. Our temps then were up in high 90's.
I'll change how I do it next year.
I used apiguard for years and don't ever remember anything about absconding in high temperatures (within the recommended temps). So I'm not sure why absconding is an issue. Two years ago I didn't have a mite kill from it and that was unusual. Lost a lot of hives in the fall and winter. I tried other treatments and couldn't get them under control.
I'm not sure what happened.
I feed and treat but we mainly drip (in summer) oxalic acid. Thimol, per my experience, increased robbing attitude. May be because italian queens has higher tendency to robb and because of higher drifting (seems italian queens has lower attitude in navigation).
Hi Bob, Do you run solid bottoms and 3/8" openings all year or is that only when you're treating? If so what about condensation in the winter. As always I appreciate your videos.
We do run 3/8 all year. Although we do have some condensation it doesn't seem to be excessive enough to cause us trouble in our area. Also, we don't use any entrance reducers.
Off the wall question.
I’m looking at getting a 22’ 14k bumper pull trailer for bee keeping. I’m torn on getting a flatbed or a low car hauler type. I’ll be pulling it with a one ton flat bed. Trying to convert everything to pallets and am thinking the most versatile would be the flatbed. But harder to load the fork lift…
So if you could have only one trailer when you were starting out what would it have been?
Hi Justin. If you're loading pallets of bees on a trailer, it's much easier to load them on a flatbed. If you're loading a forklift, it's much easier to load it on a lower car hauler type. With just a one ton you will find a truck load of bees and a flatbed trailer of that type with a forklift to be quite a load whereas the car hauler trailer is notably lighter, shorter and easier to handle. This is just me, but if I only had a 1 ton, I'd go for the lighter trailer. Also, look on the back of your drivers license. If you have a standard license you may find it only allows you to pull trailers registered for up to 10,000 pounds. You need a higher class of drivers license to pull a 14,000 lb. trailer. You can purchase car hauler or equipment trailers with the same 7000 lb. axles as the 14k flatbed, which will give you bigger and better tires and brakes, which is very desirable with a one ton, and ask the manufacturer to put a 10,000 lb. gross tag on it. Myself and others I know have this because it isn't a matter of wether you will get pulled over by a cop that goes by the letter of the law or not, but when.
@@bobbinnie9872 I think I will take your advice and do the 10 k rating on 14 k axles. I do have a class A but it would probably be hard to find a worker with one.
I'm hoping I dont make a mistake but I'm trying a series of OAV treatments. It seemed it worked well in the early spring.
The three most common mistakes with oxalic in late summer are too low of a dose (should be at least two grams per deep), the treatments are too far apart (no more than four days) and not enough of them (minimum four). Oxalic is my favorite treatment, we just can't around quick enough, nor do we have that much time, in late summer when they have brood. In the winter, when they're broodless, it's different.
@@bobbinnie9872 very well spoken. I like doing 7-8 treatments 3-4 days apart for 24 days. I'm definitely uping my doesage as well.
Help Bob! I have 33 hives all double deeps and temp in the mid 80s, 2 days ago I treated all the hives with Apiguard with 33 mil each hive instead of the 50. The next morning 5 of the hives had a lot dead brood in front of the hive, no dead bees just brood. Opening those hives same morning I noticed all the Apiguard gel was gone. All the rest of the colonies have gel on the pads and no brood loss. You have an idea what is going on? The 5 colonies were a few of my biggest. I have no clue and my Bee club in NC has no answers!
Without being there to see it I would guess that the temperatures in those hives was too warm for some reason.
Bob. I treated with apivar this year. When I took the strips out I was going to do an alcohol was. I didn’t have to I could see mites on my bees. It is getting later in the year. What do you think you would recommend this late? I am in western North Carolina just north of Asheville. I have been recommended to use formic. I am still up in the air. Just looking for your input as I really value that. Thank you
Hi Josh. Email me using the email address on the "about" page on my channel and remind me of this question. Include your phone number if you like. Thanks.
Two questions Mr Bennie. First, do you apply 50 grams all at once on a 2 brood chamber hive or 24g a week apart? Second, what do you do with mating nukes after harvesting queens at this time of year?
Hi Andy. As long as the temperatures allows it I give the full dose of 50 grams on a double deep. If it's over the mid to upper 80's I go for the lower dose closer together. I will be making a video soon that will show us harvesting every other queen and then combining that nuc with the next queen and nuc to overwinter.
Have you tried swifter pads ? It traps their legs. Amazing
I've heard others say the same.
How do you use them?
@@anibis485 just lay flat on top of frames. They get trapped❗️
How were the mite loads throughout the season in the yard that was treated with mid-winter OAV x3 and had mite loads that were too low for the UGA study?
And the yard featured in this video received two applications of 50g ApiGuard? Is that what you mean by “two treatments”?
Yes, the yards in this video received two doses about ten days apart. I have 42 yards and only two, that were 3/4 mile apart, had unusually high mite loads on the first of August. One was the research yard. We think those two yards robbed out someone else's yard nearby and got contaminated by mite bombs. The research is moving forward but we expect to lose some of the control colonies. I'll be talking about this in a future video.
@@bobbinnie9872
Thanks, Bob.
Sorry to hear about the high mite loads. I guess that yard has mite loads now! 😅
Looking forward to the video about the situation in those yards. Hope you were able to test that Aluen Cap product for UGA.
If you have time Id like to see how you treat new boxes. I believe you said you use linseed oil, oil based primer snd then paint but I cant find that video.
th-cam.com/video/N2EBpimwk_w/w-d-xo.html
Copper Napthenate
@@burleybeeyard oh my goodness. You are so awesome. Thank you! I had not seen this one. Maybe it wasnt Bob i was watching before ....opps
Hi - first year beekeeper here. Was getting ready to use Apiguard and I have honey supers on that will be left on throughout the winter only for bee consumption. I assume I can never resuse these frames next year for human consumption honey (?) Was wondering if they would in any way cross-contaminate the other honey supers that will be on next year at the same time? I'm in southwest VA. Thanks for your time. Love the videos.
I don't believe so.
👋👌👍
Bob, in the yard that had zero mites across the board, would you happen to have record of the winter survival?
I didn't record the actual number but they did OK. We did lose a few.
What dosage recommendation of Apiguard would you have for double 4 frame nuc?
If it's full of bees it should I would experiment with 10 to 15 grams and watch it closely.
has your caucasian queens slowed down laying yet. Also if you are going to have any caucasian nukes for sale from your yard that may have a good chance of matting with caucasian or carniolan drones I would like to get at least 4 this spring. I am trying to have fewer Italian's.
Hi Christopher. They slowed down a bit more than the Italians during the mid summer dearth but picked up again as soon as pollen started to come in again. We should have some bees for sale next spring or if you wanted to pick up some singles we have those now. If interested call the store at 706 782 6722.
how may hives do you mite test, all of them after your treatments, 100%? or just a sample of some percentage? I would think that there could be a hive that had a heavy might load even though most of the hives had very low tests.
You are right. One colony could be more infested than the rest but we usually have an idea of trends by doing 10% to 20% of a yard.
The best site for building an apiary, are the heights better than the plains?
thank you
In our area we like to keep our yards from being in low lying ground that could be colder and moister in the winter. We also try to have the north wind blocked. Open fields can be quite windy in the winter so we consider that. Open plains can be brutal depending on where you are. High and dry with no wind is best.
Good morning Bob. First year beekeeper. Have not yet treated for mites. Honestly have felt overwhelmed by it. Haven't tested either. I have 1 hive requeened themselves late july, giving a brood break. Another small hive was a split I did late july from my strongest hive, so 3 hives. This time of year, what would you recommend for mite treatment. Thank you
Hi Linda. This late in the season I would not recommend something like Apigaurd which tends to slows the queen down. Perhaps Apivar or oxalic acid vaporization. Because of the date I would suggest moving quickly.
Think it's too late in the season to do this in the piedmont? We are hovering between the mid 50s and mid-70s right now.
I think it would be a bad time to stop or slow the queen from laying which Apiguard tends to do. If had to treat now I would use something that wouldn't slow the queen down.
Even though you are coming up with "0's", will you still do OA treatments in Nov/DeC?
Yes, zero doesn't mean we don't have any mites. I'm sure this winter there will be plenty of mites to treat.
I have now combined two brood boxes one with a queen and one without separated by a newspaper. We deleted a second brood box with the queen and therefore leftover honey. should I or can I freeze those frames with honey and use them later to feed the bees this winter.? Thanks in advance
Yes, it's a good strategy.
hey bob what size entrance do you use in winter
We leave our 3/8 inch entrances fully open unless the colonies are small or are in a high wind area. Then we'll take them down to just a few inches.
6:33..
Exactly why I don't shoot TH-cam videos . Hard enough to get enough done the way it is. Having the help just stand around happens well enough without me encouraging it.
Sure they don't mind the break though.
As per thymol. We took some 15s in early July down to 1s and 2's with thymol and a few other organic tricks.
Low mite counts when September rolls up on the calendar is about 99.9% of a successful overwintering rate. Along with 99.9 % being good queens and 99.9% great winter stores of feed and pollen.
They all work together although it say all is for naught if the mite counts are high.
Someone needs to begin a study regarding the use of HCQ and Ivermectin for systemic mite control.
Hey Bob, I'd like to buy a couple of those hives you'll be selling!
Hi Jeremy. Call the store and ask for Molly. She is handling all the orders.706 782 6722. Thanks.
Hey Bob have you had any luck with Amatraz and what is the good or bad with this product?
Yes and no. In the form of Apivar we've had good and also mediocre results.
@@bobbinnie9872 Thank you Bob ! Email me so we can talk. I think i will have some good info for you!
@@stevesoutdoorworld4340 Send your email address to my email address in the "about" section on the channel page.
Bob, can you make a video on honey labeling, barcodes and marketing?
Good idea. I will put that on my list, thanks.
I’ll be watching for it!!! Thanks!
Bob, if the treatment didn’t work would you immediately move to another option like apiary?
Yes, I would immediately do whatever it takes.
@@bobbinnie9872 thank you. Just noticed “apiary” should read “apivar”. Darn auto correct!
New beekeeper question. I have 4 hives, 2 in town and 2 on a farm. I have just finished the 6 weeks Aprivar mite treatment . The farm hives have zero mites but the town hives were so full of mites I did not try to even count them. Would you suggest what I should do at this point. Thanks
Not knowing your location, I would suggest that you may not want to use Apiguard again because it may slow the queen down at a time that is crucial for raising winter bees. You might try Apivar which does not effect queen performance.
@@bobbinnie9872 Thanks, I will order some. Live in north central Alabama. Decatur. Will report results.
Hi Bob - how did you all do on sourwood this year
Hi Tommy. We did not make a drop. Just one of those years.
@@bobbinnie9872 oh wow!
How would you use Apiguard in a top bar hive
I've not used a top bar hive so i'm not sure.
im on every vid info wit a straw,its gettin cold up here in Ohio
Hey Bob, I put full dose Apigaurd in my 46 colonies on Sat it's been 78-81 most of the time but now on Thursday the 6th day of the treatment they are calling for 89 degrees, but 79 and 80 on both days before and after. FYI they are actively removing the treatment, but wanted to know your thoughts thanks!
I think it's all good. 89 should be fine by the sixth day.
@@bobbinnie9872 I appreciate you taking the time to answer! Thanks for everything that you do!
well i think that the use of an insect Fogger is best using Oxalic Acid 25 grams /and 100 mil 185 proff alcohol
I thought the Apiguard is to be placed between the two deeps instead of on top of the second deep. Apparently you had success putting it on top which is a lot easier. Have you always do it that way?
I started out by putting it in between two boxes but I have come to the conclusion that it works better on top as long as it is two boxes or less.
I deleted my last comment because the question was answered later in the video. As for timing of your second queen rearing bout, I figure it’s about a mid-June event?
Yes, give or take a week.
I noticed you have both an inner feeder and a bucket feeder on your hives. Why using both or am I missing some here? Thanks.
Our preferred feeders are buckets and that's what we usually use, especially on singles so we don't loose two frames. The inside feeders are very convenient in double deeps and most have them but they don't work well with small colonies. There are occasions when we use both on a colony but only when they need lots of feed and we know we won't be back for awhile.
@@bobbinnie9872 thanks that is good to know!
Do you mark all your queens
We carry a queen marker in our pocket and if we see them we mark them. Of course in queen mating nucs we them all.
Would you ever give a 3rd tray of 50 g Apiguard where the mite drop continues be over 100 per day after 2 treatments
Yes, I've didn't have to do that this year but I have in the past.
@@bobbinnie9872 thank you
I used apiguard for the first time this year in July. Temperature was above 90. I used 25 on doubles and 15 on singles. Worked well. I did 2 treatments 1 week apart. When I came back through I noticed only eggs with very little brood. Maybe a good time to apply OAV?
Also, have you ever put the gel on the top bars?
It does sound like oxalic could be more affective than usual but the synergistic affect of the two compounds present in your colonies at the same time could cause issues. It takes a while for thymol to completely disappear. I don't know exactly how long it takes. Just a thought.
last year you said that you had great results with OA treatments. Why change to apigaurd?
We treat twice a year. Our good results last year with oxalic were in winter when the bees were broodless. We always try to do a different treatment in August and this year Apigaurd was our choice.
Ha Bob I used apivar it comes off this month if it did not work would i hurt my bees to use Apiguard the temp are now in the 80s will it stop the brood rearing because of the smell. Thanks have a great day
Hi Frances. It could slow or stop brood rearing so hopefully your apivar worked.
@@bobbinnie9872 Thanks Bob I just enjoy every video u do they are great I have learned a lot from u Have a blessed week
Queen cell that hatched at 9:48?
Some colonies keep supersedure cell cups around even though they may not get around to using them.
@@bobbinnie9872 yeah, that one just looked alot bigger then the ones I've seen before. Maybe i haven't seen enough. I usually smash mine. I figure, if they really want it, they will remake it.
Had good success myself/ acts as a brood break shutting down the queen lol
Hello Mr. Bob,how are You .I have a question.I have lost already five colonies from fifty.I don't know why they fly away in autumn.Please help me.Thank You.
Hi Arman. Honestly, without being there, it's hard to say. So are many possibilities. Many beekeepers lose a few colonies late in the season. We're actually running across a few small queen-less colonies now as we assess thing before winter. When colonies swarm or supersede in summer not all are successful and they dwindle away around this time of year. I wonder if that could have happened with a few of yours. Also, older queens can fail in late summer and the same symptoms result. Of course mites and poor late season nutrition can compound problems with already compromised colonies. Good luck, I hope you don't lose any more.
@@bobbinnie9872 Thank You Mr Bob
Mr. Binnie, I can only get Apiguard with 50g trays. How do I do a half dose as suggested?
I live in North Florida and it's still in the upper 80's for the high.
We bought our tubs from Dadant in High Springs, FL.
@@bobbinnie9872 I did too.
@@raleighsistrunk7123 I just used 1/2 the tray in a hive and put the other 1/2 in another hive.
@@ronaldburleson1099 so you just cut it in half?
Gosh... just watch #kamonreynolds promote with conviction on "not to feed" side of the equation during is long hive update. It certainly can be confusing to the general population. Thanks for posting your experience
I certainly wouldn't discount anything Kamon reports. It is interesting how different beekeepers have different experiences. All we can do is take the info we get and figure out what works best for us.
What is the reason for not withdrawing the colony of feeding beehives (sugar solution) and thank you
I'm only feeding because that's what we would normally be doing at this time anyway. I wouldn't feed just because we're applying Apiguard. We don't take the colony off of the feeding schedule because we don't need to. I've not had a problem feeding during Apiguard treatments. If I'm misunderstanding your question, please ask again. Thanks.
@@bobbinnie9872 My question is that I have a beehive that does not accept feeding with sugar solutionThanks!
@@graphicdesign7133 That question makes more sense but your problem doesn't make any sense. The only times I can think of that they would not take sugar syrup this time of year are if you have a nectar flow, they are completely out of room or they are sick.
@@bobbinnie9872 Thank you
Bob, according to Randy Oliver, we are suppose to swirl the tester for a minute. It looks like bees were shaken in the cup, but not swirled. Are you worried about that? Secondly, the alcohol level was slightly touching the wire cage where bees were located. In order for the mites from the top of the pile to float down to the bottom, I would think that you need most bees to be submerged in the liquid. You got hundreds more hives than we do, so mean no disrespect with my comment. It would be a shame is you got 0 counts from risky test technique, rather than reality.
You are correct. We do usually swirl and the employee was corrected. Thanks.
Hey bob this is the lost candler man I have somethingI would like to show you I think it might go far in the bee industry if interested I have a working prototype thanks Albee
I'd be glad to look at it.
hi bob i just arrived in america. I am an experienced beekeeper. I want to do beekeeping in this country. can you help me with this please
I don't currently know of any beekeepers looking for help although I'm sure there are some.
@@bobbinnie9872 Can't you give me a job with you or tell another friend about me?
@@Lana.pls.play.dti.withme We have all the people we need at this time but I will remember you if I hear of anyone looking for beekeeping employees. Thanks.
@@bobbinnie9872 thank you so much
What I like to hear , ZERO
If I wasn't so old I would do a happy dance.
@@bobbinnie9872 Your smile gave you away when he said zero the second time. LOL
Emerging Bob they already hatched 🙄
Zerooooo !!!