How to make a Miniature Table Saw Sled
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2017
- How to make a miniature table saw sled.
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A few people have asked about the overall dimensions of this sled - here you go:
10 & 3/4" wide (side to side) x 8 & 3/4" deep (front to back) x 3 & 1/4" tall (not including the rail) - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
How was that 90? The front of the speed square flat was on the side of the blade and the back flat was on the Kerf (teeth) of the blade! Am I missing something here!!???
J C, you're right - the edge catch of the square was on one of teeth in that shot. Although I didn't show it in the video, I rotated the blade around so that it fit in between 2 teeth before I actually lined things up. I should have included that in the video so people would know that the square needs to be only making contact with the main flat part of the blade. Another thing that should be mentioned is that that technique will only work on blades that have enough distance between teeth for the speed square to fit in between them. That technique wouldn't work on a blade with a higher tooth-count. Awesome catch - thank you for pointing it out! I think I'll pin this comment to the top so every can see it!
Was thinking the exact same thing when I saw it - I was like, "uh oh..." - not sure how difficult it is to edit the video but it might be worth putting a little text in at 6:40 telling people that you went back and redid this - like your response to J C states. Otherwise people may not see this comment down here...
Fantastic idea to have a small sled, for most jobs that's all you need. Great 'how to' thanks!
Love your planer stand!
Nice to see tools/fixtures made for "portable" table saws like the one from DeWalt. These are probably far more common than the "full" table saws which require dedicated garage space...
Keith, I'm glad you dig it!
clamping the square to the blade is just genius.
Thanks!
Very nice, I like the idea of a small sled. Actually much of my work is small....Well done. Thank you for sharing this.
Glenn Felpel, I'm glad you like it. Thanks for commenting!
Got the plans, made this sans the drill press for using on handyman jobs outside of the home front. I added folding legs. Works great. I even use it as a second tablesaw for additional repetitive cuts. Works great.
Great work bench and organization ideas.. Would love to see how you did it and what your thinking was.
I personally really like your idea of how you squared up your fence with the saw blade!! That was genius "imho"!
Thank you!
I just got finished making myself a medium sized cross cut sled. I guess now I have to make a smaller one too. Cool idea. 😀
Thanks!
Clamping the speed square is a super idea! Nice vid.
Thanks - glad you liked it!
I like it. Great idea!
I love how easy this is to make and I also love your bench :)
Thanks! I have a full video dedicated to the workbench - here’s a link: th-cam.com/video/SKOCpNIV2Is/w-d-xo.html
I need one now. ! Good job.
Let me know how it turns out!
made this sled tommy and it works really good,,thank you
Awesome! Glad to hear it!
I like how you used only one fence in this. I have one of those combo blade guard/splitter/kickback pawls safety attachments that I like to leave on, not only for safety but because it's such a hassle to get it back on with the splitter aligned to the kerf. Thanks for showing how the sled won't come in two from just having the one fence. Great idea!
Thank you, and no problem! I'm glad you found it helpful!
That's it! Seen enough, I'm subscribing!
Thank you, and welcome to the channel!
thanks very useful. Great idea.
By placing the runner in the other slot, centering the board left and barely over the saw kerf line you would have created a multiple purpose mini-sled, after cutting the sled square by using that slot. Then switch slots and cut a 45 degree bevel… but I’ve always loved using a small sled similar to yours…
Having just got a table saw, I have been thinking about making a sled for it. My next project will have datos and that sled would be perfect!
Also small and space saving.
Great job! Would love to use a smaller sled but my small work requires the pieces to be supported on both sides to avoid the annoying little tear outs....
Hi Tommy I like your videos. Great job 👍
I’m glad you’re enjoying the channel! Thanks for letting me know!
Good video-thanks.
I'm glad you liked it!
Muito bom. Parabéns.
Humaitá, Amazonas, Brasil.
Thank you! I'm glad you like it!
Thanks for this.
I’m glad you enjoyed it!
I watched a video earlier where the guy essentially did what you did (his process was more involved, but so what). One thing I liked that he did was to set the blade at 45, he put the sled into the miter gauge slot on the other side (right side), then he cut the other end of the sled. So, if one wanted to cut a miter, just run the sled in the other miter gauge slot. Just food for thought...
Thanks for sharing that idea!
Great little sled project and LOVE your saw and out feed table setup, and that you're protective of your hearing, but please , please wear safety glasses as well. I would hate to see you mess up your eyes
Thanks - and thanks for the safety advice. We could all stand to do better about keeping ourselves safe while pursuing our passions.
Fyi..love ur equipment..
Thanks...I hope you're talking about all my homemade tools ;-)
I love your Videos, they are very easy to follow, and it helps create tools I can not currently afford. Any chance you could do a video on how to build a table saw with a circular saw? Or do you know of a video that makes one that works?
Thanks for the compliments! I've thought about making a table saw, but it's low on my list right now. If I did make one, I think I'd be inclined to make it from scratch because all of the ones I've seen with a circular saw have a very limited depth of cut, and difficulty/limitations making angled cuts. All that said, there are lots of videos on how to make one from a circular saw. I'm not sure which I'd recommend because I've never tried any of them. It's really a pretty simple idea though. Basically you want to secure the base of your saw to a piece of plywood (or something similar) then plunge your blade through it - flip it over, and you've got a table saw! Of course you need to mount that table to a box or some other thing, and build a fence, but you get the idea. I hope this helps!
Do you make any videos on the different types of jigs? And other videos on other homemade tools holders?
I do - just click on my channel and you can see all my videos.
Any concerns about the offcuts not being supported on their side? I'm considering building a similar sled but my offcuts will likely be quite large and I think I'd worry about the blade being pinched.
Somebody else brought that up recently, but I haven't experienced it as a problem. Also, it got me thinking about the thousands of cuts I made during my years in new home construction. Almost every single cut I (and my coworkers) made were unsupported, and the off-cuts just fell to the ground. Never once did an off-cut present a danger (unless it had a nail in it), so I think the off-cuts falling 3/4" to the table will be okay.
I love your rolling workbench, how did you do it?
Thanks! Here’s the video for it: th-cam.com/video/SKOCpNIV2Is/w-d-xo.html
PARABÉNS, quanta habilidade e carinho, vi e aprendi, adoro trabalhar com madeira, faço como hobby, nesse momento estou fazendo algumas casinhas para abelhas jataí e presenteando os amigos para espalhar essa ideia de proteção as abelhas!
Abraço aqui do Brasil 🇧🇷
Obrigado! Fico feliz que você esteja curtindo meu canal e marcenaria como hobby. Também acho ótimo que você esteja trabalhando para proteger as abelhas. Na verdade, tenho pensado em construir colmeias e pensar que, se mais pessoas tivessem colmeias, poderia ajudar as abelhas a sobreviver. Mais uma vez, acho muito legal que você já esteja fazendo isso - ótimo trabalho!
👏👏👏
Interesting small project. Thanks for sharing the video. What do you mean with "my table saw doesn't have a blade depth lock"?
You can move the saw blade up and down but you can't lock it? In what direction does it move? Up or down? In the US the Dewalt is a quite cheap table saw but in
Europe it's not (due to taxes and import duties I suppose) How can you find out if a table saw has the possibility to lock the blade depth?
I doubt any saw has an actual depth lock (although I’m not 100% sure), however my saw has a certain amount of backlash that never seems to be able to be accounted for. I’ve started going at my destination from both directions, and when I turn the saw on, it always skips up or down a little to a new (and unable to predetermine) setting. Quite annoying!
@@OneMinuteWorkbench Thanks for your explanation. It's good to know that. ( I follow a few wood working channels and I've never heard anybody telling something simila(). And thanks for he quick response on a video that you made nearly three years ago. You have a new subscriber. Good luck with your YT Channel and projects. Stay safe.
Thank you for subscribing, and welcome to the channel! I used to be good about responding to every single comment, but I'm getting busier and busier these days...I do my best though! Again, thanks for coming onboard!
I made one of these today but mine did not work. There is too much play in the rail because it’s really weird shaped. I have a Ryobi table saw with one track only and it’s almost like a “T” shape rail and my wood I cut doesn’t fit right. Any suggestions??
The only thing that comes to mind is to have another go at it, and pay special attention to fitment. Maybe the depth is an issue, maybe the width, maybe the straightness... If nothing else, you’ll learn more from each attempt. I find that the more I attempt the same thing, the more small details jump out at me, and become obvious. As the old saying goes “practice makes perfect”. I hope this helps!
Thanks for the video. Question; when making a sled, how do you make a perfect runner if the mitre slot I have on my tablesaw has those small indents in two places. Thanks
No problem! I'm not sure what you're referring to - what's the model # of your table saw?
Hello, you asked what model my table saw is; Skilsaw 3410. Thanks
I just removed those tabs of my saw, they're useless and it was pretty easy. Use a grinder ans sandpaper and it's done. I recommend using tape for reference.
I see now. It looks like the original miter gauge has a "T-shape" to it that locks under those tabs. You could disassemble the miter gauge and use the t-shaped bar as the runner for your sled. Failing that you could create your own t-shaped runner out of hardwood. Or as Armando suggested, you could remove them. I would probably not remove them, as it is kind of a nice feature to have when using a miter gauge. Anyway, I hope this helps!
I have a Dewalt contractor's saw as well. Mind sharing the brand name of the wax you use on yours? Thnx Tommy!
No problem! It's Minwax Paste Finishing Wax.
How thick is the thinned wood there? I never see woodworking videos from country outside Indonesia, that using a thin wood.
Indonesia has 1mm as the thinnest..
Thanks for the tutorial. I’m ready to purchase my first table saw and I think its the same one you have. Can you tell me which model it is and are you happy with it? I think your sled will be my first project. Can I use a larger sled on this saw as well?
It's a DeWalt DW745. I'm very happy with it - it has lots of power and has been going strong for 5 years. The only bad thing I can think about it is that it doesn't accept a dado stack. It'd be nice to have, but it's not enough to make me buy a new saw. You can use a larger sled, but probably not a huge one since this is a compact style saw. Hope this helps!
One Minute Workbench Thanks for the the quick response. I was just watching your video of you building the table for your friend, which by the way came out beautiful. Thats the model I was looking to buy. I was really impressed when I saw it cut that huge piece of wood. Thanks again!
Thanks! If you do wind up cutting huge boards, remember to go slow and start with shallow cuts and slowly progress to deeper and deeper cuts. Good luck with your saw purchase!
is the conversation about cutting wood?
Romulo Remo no , Yuletide chocolate logs
What is that wax you were using?
funny thing is I used the tape trick on the rickity miter slide that came with the saw that every one hates and the tape works! - I used 2 on the left and one on the rightside of the miter slide and it has zero wobble now absolutely perfect and the track slides freely - the slide will not slide on the right side miter track only the left miter track (as one faces the blade)...
Matt Day did you use painter's tape as well, or something different?
Yes Blue painter tape - great fit on the left track, tight on the right track, but I only use it on the left side track so it works for me.
Hello Tommy , this little cute jig is really looking sweet. I did build the 20x20 cm or 8x8 inch mini version with a tiny stop-block. The only drawback is with little small cuts ( 1 cm or half inch ). They are sliding away and sometimes not perfect square cut. How to add a mini holder. Any good idea or do you think you should add more little useful parts to your cute small sweet jig ?
Thanks for sharing :) You are missing out one critical jig from your DIY List after your DIY Drill Powered Disc Sander ? Guess what ? DIY DRILL STAND for perfect 90 degrees drilling. I have been on market lately , even the cheap ones ( drill stands ) cost more than 60 dollars. All Best and Keep Up The Cute Great Learning Videos :)
I’ve thought about adding different ways to clamps pieces to it. When I get a chance I’ll play around with it and see what I can come up with and make a video about it. It’ll take a while though....I’ve got a long list of projects stacked up. I hope this helps!
you could use double sided tape to fing perfect place instead of using ruler and pencil
i have the same saw and can you tell me where you got your zero clearance insert,,
I actually don’t have a zero clearance insert, but I’ve been thinking about making one. If I do, I’ll be sure to post a video, so stay tuned!
jeff oldham I was rabbeting drawer parts last week and needed a zero clearance so my parts wouldn't "stumble" over the insert. What I did was take a piece of Masonite and clamp it down on the table, then raise the blade into it to the height I needed. Et voila! Now, the real craftsmen will probably blow a gasket, but it worked just fine for my purposes.
Hi tommy loving what you do.tommy can you co e up with a tool caddy that stores tools upright and easily visible and accessible.bit like a systainer type thing if that makes sense.that would be brill.cheers tommy.tim
Thanks Tim, I'm glad you're enjoying the videos! Sketch it up on a piece of paper and send me a photo (through the One Minute Workbench Facebook page). If it looks like something I can use, I'll take a shot at it.
One Minute Workbench hi tommy,tried drawing them but even I don’t know what I have drawn lol.but Adam savage has made one,jack houweling has,Chris glitzos has to name a few tommy.but each one does not quite fit the slot.still feel something is missing though tommy somehow.but at least they are on display and accessible.hope you can come up with something matey.please keep me posted.kind regards tim
Okay - I'll check it out.
Always nice to make something small, but i don't really get why you would make a small (half) tablesled if you can just make a regular one? (except for less storage space required if you don't use it).
Nice job anyway!
5050ShopSDB - that's exactly it. Storing it away. I found with the larger one I built, I never cut anything large with it anyway, it was cumbersome to use, and it took up a lot of space in the garage. And for me, space is my most limited resource. Well, that's and I also seem to be running low on giant stacks of cash 😁. Thanks for commenting!
👏👏👏👏👏...!
Nice idea but i dont like the fact that its elevated where cut part of wood is and could be very dangerous at end of cut since there is nothing under the wood to support it
Thanks for taking the time to give some feedback! It feels very safe to me, and it hasn't been a problem yet. You can see me use it in almost all of my project videos, or at least all the ones I've posted after this one! Have a look at some of those and let me know what you think!
I just read some of the comments (criticisms) below, can you believe what assholes [people can be!!?? Anyway you did a great job and speaking only for myself, thanks again for sharing.
Jim ~ thanks for the compliment. I'm glad you like the video! As far as the critical comments goes, it's okay. People have a right to their opinions, and a right to be heard. It's part of what makes our country a great place to live!
what is the actual dimensions of the sled
10 & 3/4" wide (side to side) x 8 & 3/4" deep (front to back) x 3 & 1/4" tall (not including the rail). Hope this helps!
Im making a simple larger sled now...but hey it may work fine but mechanically speaking it can be unsafe since the cutoff portion is floating in air with no support....this can be dangerous....it may work fine for 1000 times but maybe not 1001 times....
Tg u for sharing..***
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
I made one of these and used it for awhile. I had to go back to a full sled because the cut off portion of what I was cutting had to fall to the saw bed. That always bothered me.
Thanks for sharing about your build!
nylon is a better option for a track guide.
Thanks for the feedback!
Nice, but everyone don't have the equipment for that project.
be nice if you included some measurements.
Don C, that's a great point. I'll list the dimensions in a few days when I get back home (I'm away for the holidays). Just keep in mind that things may be different if you have a different saw than mine. You can see the model number for my saw (and all my tools) at oneminuteworkbench.com
Well i mean support at cut area where blade is....
Safety glasses?
Indeed, a very important step you should never forget....especially if you record it and put it on the internet ;-)
05:12 *What* ? No 'elevated-rail-supported-by-washers-underneath-trick' ?
07:00 But *Tommy* - if you & Mr. Swanson were right, remains to be seen after the five-cut-method has been done.
If there is a raid he can hide it away easily, lol.
lol
Is that a plastic table saw? Boy i've seen it all.
Nope, it's aluminum. DeWalt decided to coat the aluminum table with some sort of plasticy, teflon-ish stuff to help pieces of wood glide better. I hope this helps!
@@OneMinuteWorkbench Thank you for the response. Great work on your videos, I in know way was trying to knock you. I just absolutely hate expensive tools made with cheap parts and anything Dewalt is definitely on the expensive side. I'm glad it's metal, just hope the coating lasts your lifetime to get your moneys worth.
No offense taken, and thanks for the compliment on my videos! I'm not really married to any brand of tools, so it doesn't hurt my feelings 😉. The plastic coating is most certainly wearing off and looks terrible, but it still cuts, so for now I'll stick with it. I'd love it if somebody made a better quality compact saw with a good steel table, but I'm not holding my breathe! Thanks again!
My question is what if you don't have a planer or joiner? They're expensive and I simply cannot justify the cost of buying them.
There are ways to flatten a board with only a table saw, and a methodical approach. A table saw is capable of making a very straight cut, problem is the if the side that makes contact with the fence is crooked, it will transfer the crookedness to the side that's being cut. So what you need to do is attach something to the piece you're cutting that has a perfectly straight edge on it (like the factory edge of a piece of plywood or mdf) using small nails, hot glue or VHB double sided tape. The process goes like this:
-- Attach plywood with factory edge to your crooked board (plywood must be longer than the piece your trying to flatten).
-- Run board through saw with plywood against the fence, and your board through the blade.
-- Now you have 1 straight edge.
-- Remove plywood, face your newly cut edge downward.
-- Reattach plywood, make cut in the same way as the first one.
-- Now you have 2 straight edges that are perpendicular to each other.
-- Remove plywood, face your newly cut edge downward.
-- Make cut (your 1st cut side will be against the fence, your 2nd cut side will be facing down).
-- Now you have 3 sides that are straight and square to each other.
-- Cut last side.
You can also make a jig to facilitate This sort of activity so you don't have to fire nails every time. The more expensive leg tapering jigs you mentioned in another comment can be used for this, or you can build a simple one, like this: th-cam.com/video/DHczoY_mbzU/w-d-xo.html The only problem with a jig like the one in that video is that the wood will warp over time, so it'd be better to build something like this out of metal...but if you can build a jig out of metal, you probably don't need a woodworking jig 🤣
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@@OneMinuteWorkbench Ahhh, OK, thank you. This must be what's meant when they say you can straighten any piece of wood in 5 steps. I'm going to give it a try in conjunction with testing the tapering jig. I'll make a test cut with the jig, then resquare the board using these steps. Thank you again.
One Minute Workbench I made it this afternoon, and you were right, it's incredibly easy. I used Kreg pocket screws and glue to get a nice, tight 90 degree corner. I have a couple of quick questions. First, are their specific measurements for any of this, or is eyeball close enough? What about placement of the screw? Finally, I noticed after making a taper cut that there's a small bevel to the top edge of the piece so that it's a tiny bit wider at the top than the bottom. Is this normal, and is sanding it flat the way to take care of it if it isn't normal? But it really is both that simple to make and that effective at making accurate taper cuts. Awesome jig!
Lee, it sounds like you're referring to the taper jig, is that right? There are no specific measurements...not really. You just have to make sure it's longer than the piece you want to taper, and make sure it's robust enough to support the workpiece. You also need to make sure it will be flat up against the fence of your table saw so the cut comes out straight. Screw placement isn't super critical either. It just needs to be near the base. I'm not sure I understand what you're saying about the bevel at the top edge - can you explain a little more?
@@OneMinuteWorkbench Thanks for the clarification. I was able to make a very practical version using scraps. The bevel I'm referring to isn't easy to explain without graphics, but I'll try. When you cut the piece, you're coming at an angle so the blade cuts of a wee bit more at the bottom of the edge, leaving a "bevel" that's noticeable when you look down the length of the board as if you're looking to see if a board has a bow to it. It doesn't seem to have any adverse impact on the final piece, but it is noticeable. Still this is one of the most practical yet simple jigs I have ever used. Thank you! Would you mind if I posted a picture of my version on a different site (Buildsomething) with attribution of course.
That's not MDF...
Right...should have called it particle board, or maybe LDF or even “melamine” (even though melamine really only refers to the veneer, lots of people call it that). Thanks for the correction.
@@OneMinuteWorkbench Or melamine faced chipboard. MDF/HDF are whole different story.
I'm planning to do my mini sled out of chipboard, too.
Go see the link i sent... With that version u can cut smaller materials safely ....and also wont damage material at end of cut like urs can and prob does....just giving u input....your video sparked my desire to make a mini one....i just dont feel ur design is for me...so thanks
I checked out the link - I've seen similar ones before. You've got me cooking up an idea for a new one though....I'll post a video when it's done!
WTF you put ear muffs on but NO eye safety..... Also big drill first then small drill
Eyes are very important - I can’t argue that!
All those tools and you cut the slide rail too short and too thin.. :/
sorry to tell you it is melamine the sled it make of
Well...actually melamine is a chemical that has many uses, including serving as a thermoplastic that is used as a surface material on medium density fiberboard for certain applications. But yes, MDF that has been surfaced with melamine is often referred to as just “melamine”, even though it’s more complex than that 😉
To me its a very unsafe design but maybe im wrong.....
eee
Leaning a lot from your shows
🙂
Ha ha yes ur shop stuff"......ive always been taught that when u cut material u should always have material with support underneath to make cut cleaner and more accurate and more safe......whenever possible....and with your design there is zero support at cut off piece area..its floating in space
Thanks! I love making my own tools! You're definitely right about it potentially damaging the material if the piece is not supported. Near the end of the cut, it can damage pieces (usually very mildly), and depending on how important that last little corner is to the project, I might use a different method to make the cut. If for example I was cutting an expensive piece of walnut for a jewelry box, I'd definitely ensure there was some support. In fact, I have used the existing sled to make those types of cuts, and just put another piece of melamine on the other side so that it has support - that has worked out just fine. Regarding the safety of it all, I'd argue that material doesn't have to be supported in order to be safe. After 5 years in new home construction, and after thousands (or probably 10,000s of thousands) of cuts with a circular saw, jig saw, and reciprocating saw, all with unsupported pieces that just fell to the ground (none of which every became unsafe), I think I can safely say that the pieces that fall 3/4" to the table from my sled are probably not going to create any risk. If you really want to know the biggest risk on a job-site, it's nails in pieces of wood....those injure people all the time. I had one go right through my foot and come out the top!
Where in the hell is your eye protection?!?
Art Gordon, haha - you got me there. I have no excuse. Eyes are important!
while the white melamine looks nice, it is not a good base for wood cutting. too slippery.