Not a rheostat Rusty. It's a potentiometer. A rheostat is simply a variable resistance used to control power to a load. A potentiometer uses three terminals thus enabling a variable voltage to be tapped off from the slider. Rheostats are usually much beefier that potentiometers because they are generally used in high-power situations.
Have you ever had one of these units be bad from the start? I am not seeing any adjustment when checking the AC side. So I hooked up the bridge rectifier and no motor. Flipped it on and it blew a circuit. All wires were hooked up just like you have. I then tried the second bridge rectifier and no sparks but no control at all of the voltage getting through. It is a constant 40V DC. Any ideas? All parts are exact same specs as what you used. Thanks for any help. Gary
Thanks for the reply. I got 2 rectifiers with it and they both check good. And they were indeed hooked up correctly. To make sure I watched your video while I wired it. They are sending a replacement for the power unit. I have wired 2 complete motor controllers for my CNC Plus making the power supply for them. So this should be pretty easy. When I get the new one I will check to see if it works without the rectifier first. I should see a change in AC voltage which I am not with this unit so hard to expect it to make the DC variable either. Thanks for the reply. Gary
My replacement speed controller arrived and I hooked it up in steps Put the power cable on and made sure it would power on. Then unhooked the cord and attached the rectifier all was still good. Finally hooked the motor to it and it works fine other than the potentiometer and I have the one you recommended ready to swap out. So it appears I had a bad SCR unit on the first one. Thanks again, Gary
Thanks for sharing. I installed it to a powerful treadmill motor for a mini lathe. It was very easy to use and also cheap. It cost me 20 Dollars only. Thanks again.
Wouldn't you be better served with a full wave bridge rectifier in conjunction with a run capacitor? This would give you full form dc voltage instead of variable (inconsistent) dc output voltage.
I need this set up for a project but require a foot control pedal. Would you suggest the foot control pedal on the incoming AC side before the SCR or the control pedal after the full bridge rectifier on the DC side? I was thinking about using a sewing machine foot pedal unless there's better options.
Really appreciate how simple your setup is. Thank you for sharing and taking the time to record, edit and share your ideas with all of us who appreciate your effort. Cheers
I used this set up for a 4.25 HP DC treadmill motor. (4.25 HP Leili Treadmill Motor L-315219) I have not put the choke in yet. Nor did I replace the Pot yet. Ir runs smooth as silk and tops out at about 4,720 RPMs. Very constant RPM at that point. The stated RPM max for this motor is 5,195 at 130 colts, DC. - will the Pot or the choke add to the RPMs or is it something else I am missing. Thanks for all the help, this is awesone.
@@RustyGlovebox As I thought, thanks again and I appreciate the help, I will work in a 36" wide drum sander with this motor, If it is not enough, I can always hook up a second one on the opposite side of the axle.
I have a question. I used this video to put a treadmill motor on my old ShopSmith and it works great. My question is that when I try to read the output of the rectifier sending current to the motor, I get no readings at all. Any ideas on this?
my next project I think will be a drillpress..I have already built a rock tumbler/polisher I made from a treadmill and I made a 240vac to 12vdc transformer/rectifier to run it at a constant slow speed, I also fitted a faan from a microwave to keep the electronics cool..It has been running almost non stop for 3 months now without an issue..They are such a handy motor and freely available at most tip shops..Thanks for your video.
Very interesting as a rock tumbler is what I also want to do. I completed the control and it tests out fine. I was going to use an ATV tire for the tumbler cradled in two rotating shafts, one powered by the motor, but I am wondering if I can control the speed accurately enough to allow the roks to climb up the wall of the tire and fall back. What did you do?
I basically just cut and shut the treadmill and moved the tail roller up close to the drive roller..I stripped all of the wiring out of the unit and made a 240v-12v transformer with a bridge rectifier after it then through a power switch to the motor..The speed is perfect for tumbling..I made a tumbling drum from a rideon mower tyre and it works great..I have since made two more drums from some heavy walled 6' polly irrigation pipe with screw on caps threaded into the poly made from plywood and lined with plain old white nylon cutting board..Feel free to check my facebook page "Wayneos Creations" for some photos of this and other lapidary machins I have built from dumped parts.. @@CharQ67
Hi I have the same motor controller and rectifier as you have I removed the 500 K and replaced it with a 200 K . But the motor is still turning too fast for what I want . Using it on a wood band saw to convert it to a metal cutting so it needs to go slower maybe 200 RPM . If I hook the motor to my bench top power supply I can get to start turning at 1 volt really slow . Is there such a pot that is smaller than 200 K ? Any help would be appreciated thanks Robert
I know some time has passed since you made this video but I’m looking for some answers. I have a SCR that I’m using to power a dc motor on a small lathe. The POT, as with yours, needs changing to a smaller one. My problem is that the SCR’s POT has only two wires and most all POTS I’ve seen and have has three prongs on them. I’m having difficulty finding any information on how to replace the factory(2 wire) POT with a lower POT with 3 wires. How do you wire the new 3 wire POT? Thanks for any suggestions.
I’m doing something wrong. The AC out does vary but when I measured after the bridge rectifier the DC voltage remains around 105 no matter where I turn the potentameter.
How do I test a rectifier with a multi meter? Is there something I did to blow it, like hooking up wrong? What size rectifier do I need, 130V motor from treadmill.
thanks for that its wonderful idea i need to know siur how can you join the 220v ac speed controller with 130v dc you change the ac to dc by abrige but the difrent still btween 220 and 130 ?
@@RustyGlovebox the electric in my contry is 220v and i have a treadmill motor with 180v dc is that mean i must useing a transformer? or just goin it with speed control and bridge?
@@nofab5270 You will need to check the output without the transformer. If it is too high then you will need a transformer to reduce the input ac voltage.
I have not tried it with a capacitor. It will operate without the rings but they are suppose to help absorb some of the amp surge . Good luck on using the capacitor
I built this without the ring. It's for a light display project and the Load on the motor seams to be too much and the rectifier keeps burning up. I was wondering if it's because I need a capacitor.
Thanks for the great video! I have a 90 volt motor that has a red white and green wire for power. I have the controller but the controller isn't putting out the voltage to the motor. The motor also has a cable harness coming out with two black one blue one yellow and one red wire and the harness is fairly small. I couldn't find the wiring diagram for this treadmill but found one for a different one that looks similar and shows the wires are three grounds 15 volt in one pulse. I'm assuming this is for pwm purposes. Being that your scratch go straight to the power of the motor, do you know if I can do this as well or do I have to get a pwm power supply?
I see you have grounded the speed control case, did you also ground the case of the motor and if so, did you daisy chain the ground off the speed control to the motor or split the ground wire and attached one to the motor and one to the speed control case?
@@RustyGlovebox Rusty my question wasn't clear - I see the controller being ground by the wire coming from the ac plug via the electrical cord, (Ultimately the busbar) I don't see anything other than the positive and neutral being connected directly to the motor itself, is that correct?
Great video, Thank you for sharing. I used all the same components except the ferrite and hooked it up to my old Craftsman lathe. Worked great for about a week and in the middle of turning a bowl the motor jumped up to full speed and I shut it down. It was a little warm ( not hot) so let it cool down and tried it again and as soon as you power it up it runs at full speed. Any suggestions?
Probably the SCR/Triac shorted out and is a short circuit internally and the motor is running as though it is directly connected to mains power through the rectifier. Happens in cheap power supplies with bargain basement design, protection and components.
I've got a 500w motor from a electric dirt bike. I'm assuming I'd need a smaller controller for that motor? I'm hoping to adapt this motor to a honey extractor I'm upgrading.
Hello, I'm curious whether the big weight on the shaft is essential. Could it be discarded in fair if a gear or pulley or should those be adapted incorporating the weight?
I am building my DC treadmill motor controller like you, but I do not understand the effect of your ferrite core? #1: 2-1/2 ' of what guage wire #2: you use it on the DC side of the bridge rectifier, and it is my understanding the choke has no effect on DC? With DC it is just similar to a resistor ... #3: How many Henry does your choke create? Thanks for your video! I subscribed to your channel!
My treadmill stopped working from putting it in storage and taking it out 6 months later. I bought a speed controller off ebay and it runs the treadmill from slow to very fast but at any speed as soon as i get on it the belt stops moving and no it's not a weight issue. Any ideas. The motor is a 102VDC / 18amp. The controller is Adjustable PWM DC Motor Speed Controller AC 110V to DC 24V-90V for DC Motor 400W
My treadmill's board is broken, the motor is good. Will this option shown in the video work for my treadmill please ? Th treadmill is Weslo compact SL.
I have exactly the same controller, the pot has only 2 wires attached but the one I bought has 3 legs, can you tell me where you attached the two wires?
I have just put one of these things together. Same specs as yours. Question is, Im thinking of adding an inductor, what inductor to use. Something like a simple ferro inductor. What size?
Hi, Great tutorial. I have finally got hold of a treadmill motor for my belt grinder project. the motor has a Ground/earth wire coming out of it as well the positive and negative. should this be earthed to thee body of the machine, or something different?
Excellent job of explaining everything. I think the best I have seen. Couple questions: How much torque does it have at lower RPM? I currently have a small metal lathe using a treadmill motor and the board is having issues. I am able to turn it very slow and have lots of torque and want to still have it for threading. The other question is when you use the potentiometer that came with it you turn it clockwise to increase the speed. When you swapped it out it looks like you turned it clockwise to slow it down? Or was I seeing things? I know this is an older video and I hope you see it and can answer those questions. Again the best job of explaining I have seen. Gary
The treadmill I have, on the controller board it's marked u v w. I understand it's for 3 phase. Can I still use the controller your showing. If yes which of the wires is the common? There all black.
The motor was a dc motor from a tread mill and I was converting ac voltage to operate the motor. The bridge rectifier made it possible and the controller variate the speed.
Excuse my ignorance, but is there a reason not to use the speed control circuit/hardware that comes with most tread mills? Also many of them have a "tach" or range value on a small screen to use say for a belt sander. I think I may be missing something? Thanx, G>
Thanks Gerry, I got my motor from someone that parted out an old treadmill that the control board failed. I expect this happens somewhat often. The motors are 2hp or more so they are worth the effort to save. Take care
Hi Rusty, great video. I made the same setup yesterday using exactly the same parts as you. Even mounted the bridge rectifier in the same spot. We are on 230 volt here in Australia and I had purchased a new potentiometer in preparation for this project but to my surprise the 500k unit that was in it works really well so no need to change it. I also bought a 12v tacho and have a small 12v computer fan going in the control box. Also decided that as well as using the ferrite ring I am going to put the original EMI filter in the box as well so the control box is going to be about the size of a small shoe box but I’m ok with that. Another thing I like about the controller is that the wires on the potentiometer allows for remote mounting of it. I have a couple of treadmill motors but this is my first conversion. I’m going to mount it on my 6 inch wide belt sander as being able to vary the speed on it will be very useful for me. A word of caution if I may: I don’t think using this set up on a lathe or drill press is ideal if you, like me, are drilling larger hole in steel as the issue of torque comes into it. To keep it simple for everyone let’s say your motor is rated at 1 hp and the rpm is 1700. That 1hp is fixed so when you slow the speed down to say 170 rpm with the controller you still have 1hp available BUT when you change the same speeds using belts or gears you have a reduction ratio of 10 - 1 effectively now giving you the torque of a 10hp motor. I have seen comments on other videos where people are complaining that using these motors doesn’t give them enough torque when they slow the machine down for heavy work. There is a way around the problem but that’s for another time unless someone wants me to explain. This conversion is still good for people doing mainly woodwork or only working with light metal though and I have already ordered the parts for a second conversion as I am making a 2x72 belt sander. Hope this helps. Cheers Stuart 🇦🇺
@@jed2055 Now what am I going to use😂😂😂 Hey Jed, in the years since I posted this comment I have changed things again. With VFD’s now available for under $100aud delivered I have changed to a three phase motor. Several issues came up with the treadmill motors but the main issue was the sensitivity to load of the dc motor. At the moment second hand three phase motors are still cheep, I paid $50 for a 3hp WEG unit (Brazil) and I get the benefit of ac for speed stability under load and the benefit of dc style speed control. It really is a win win. Another issue with the treadmill motors is the fact they have an open frame with big magnets and I manly work with metal. That can lead to a short circuit or maybe even a fire. I recently purchased a Bridgeport style mill and used a VFD to convert it and another advantage of a VFD is that I set the gears and pulleys to the highest speed and can reduce the rpm down to whatever I need at the turn of a dial. They also give me soft start and other benefits so for me at least 3 phase + VFD is the way forward. Cheers Stuart.
Enjoyed the video. I have the same controller and bridge rectifier and am getting ready to put it together to use on a 2x72 homebuilt belt grinder. Your video will help immensly. One other question, I noticed in your video the red frame apprentice in the background. What is that?
I got all the same components, and hooked them up the same way, and for some reason when I hooked the farad ring up the motor went on half power with the pot turned all the way down, and then the controller wouldn't work at all after... suggestions?
I have a similar setup and would like to remove the fly wheel but can’t get that buggar to loosen ( no way to grab hold on the armature shaft), any suggestions?
You could use a standard pulley . Then drill and tap between the end of the shaft and pulley. Or maybe a tapered sleeve pulley that clamps on the shaft
Rusty - sorry for the constant question - so if I want more than 110v dc output, I would have to put 220 into the SCR - how would that be wired in the us?
@@RustyGlovebox Rusty, when I added a volt meter with the donut thing on it to measure dc volts, and coiled the positive wire around it 4 times, same voltage but pick up in RPM to 5200 - so I would think that if I would have used the core choke as you did, it would have solved the rpm issue as well; Now running at 5200 rpm with no issues, thanks for all your help!
Hi, can you tell us what wattage value did you use. The 5k pot is rated 2w. I ordered one but is only 0.5w. Does it matter. Will it work or burn. Plan to use on a 125v, 2.5 hp motor. Thanks.
Thanks for showing us this really great video! I hope you don't mind if I ask: what was the slowest RPM sustainable with the 200K rheostat? What would the slowest working RPM for that motor be, and would an even lower rated rheostat (in Ohms?) still work and be even better? I'm looking for a low RPM application without the use of a gear reducer, but maybe whatever two #35 chain sprockets would give could be used. I'm trying to make a motorized, 120v to 12v dc powered cart to move heavy things around the shop and yard slowly. Any advice you have would be gratefully accepted! Would a PWM controller be better? I'm also thinking of using mobility scooter motors since they have a brake installed (DC, but only usually like 50W each, so not too much HP, alas) Thank you!
It would run at 500 rpm's, not sure how it would to pull a heavy load. A mobility scooter PWM controller and motor would be better to make a cart. Most of the parts are there.
Lloyd this is a great tutorial! Thanks :) I do have a question: I've completed a wood lathe motor upgrade project using the same controller, bridge rectifier and toroid coil but at low RPMs the motor bucks around, jumps and the power fluctuates quite dramatically. If I speed it up above 800 rpm or so it smooths out to otherwise normal operation. Any idea why this might be? Anything I can do fix that?
@@RustyGlovebox that's definitely an option. Unfortunately, I've got limited space and the aim I had with switching over to something variable speed was to eliminate the need to go back there and switch the belt around. Might I have the wrong type of motor? Is there something about low RMP under load with this setup that's not compatible?
not sure if anyone can help me, but I've set this up on my treadmill, however, when I turn it on, the motor makes a loud humming noise. Also, when I step on the treadmill whilst running, the noise gets worse and then eventually trips the electrical box it's connected to. Any help or advice would be much appreciated.
Just wondering....what is your opinion on running this motor Without the Flywheel on it?.....and just the 10 groove pulley ( or a V- pulley).....such as for a small lathe. I ask for a few different reasons....i understand the Inertia may be needed for certain circumstances.....such as on the the Treadmill.....as someone is running and creating a 'Pulsing' in the drivetrain with each step....the flywheel would help smooth it out and remain constant. However, on a small lathe, im thinking there really isnt much Pulsing action and the flywheel may not be Needed. Your thoughts appreciated
They make good lathe motors. The serpentine or a v-belt would work fine . If you need a positive drive you could use a cog belt and pulley setup. The flywheel wouldn't be required as long as the cooling fan isn't part of it. Good luck
@@RustyGlovebox Thnx for the Reply. Sounds as tho my thots are/were correct...about not needing the flywheel....for purposes of most machining applications. As said, im thinking the steps/percussions of Running on the treadmill is the reason for the flywheel. Yes, my 9x20 lathe uses a Cog drive....which could be retrofitted to the 14mm shaft much easier than many of the LeftHand threaded shafts on many of these motors. IF i were to install a 150K POT(instead of the 200K), what do U suspect the function of speed would be?.....as considering this for a Belt Grinder drive
In mikemanmade's video (which this guy copied) he hooks it up to a band saw but he didn't change the motor, I would be interested to see a video if you do it!
What if I install 100K potentiometer instead of the 200K you installed on yours? Will that improve it even more? I also noticed you installed yours differently than what was there before. You had to turn the knob counterclockwise, maybe? Also, a choke, a capacitor maybe to smooth things out? I am not sure.
Thanks for the great video. I‘m using this setup on a 180 v dc motor with 2,2kw on 230v ac. But the motor is producing a very weird pulse noise that sounds like the frequency is false or something like that. Do you have any ideas? The motor runs and is powerfull but the sound is not so reassuring.
Make sure you have a brush type DC motor, what does it say on the tag? .Disconnect the the motor, with a multimeter on the DC settings check to see if you are getting a variable DC voltage on the output wires to the motor. If not make sure the Bridge Rectifier Diode is connected in the correct order. On the motor check the motor brushes. Are they in good condition? Check with a multimeter on the ohms setting if the motor windings are shorted out for the wires to the motor case. Good luck
@@RustyGlovebox thanks for the info.The motor runs fine with the treadmill control board. Also the rectifier I got does not say ac, it has a + and a wavy line on it. My thoughts were the line represents ac.
How did you wire the potentiometer, it has 3 prongs and only 2 wires, I’ve tried several configurations and soon as I give it power it goes to full speed with no speed control
The one I used had 3 but I only used 2. Use the center and one left or right. Depending on which one you use it will start low speed to high or high speed to low. Good luck
much thanks for the great video. question is, what is you are using a speed controller with only an one in, one out, and one com? Also the on off rocker i have has three prongs (one being copper).
I have just put a 2hp treadmill motor on my wood lathe, I used the control boards from the treadmill. It does a great job doing finish turning, however when I rough turn my green blanks at a slower speed it is lacking the torque needed for the job. Will using your method give be better torque at slower speeds? You have done another great job instructing us rookies Thanks
Hi. Thanks your video. I do the same. And there is a problem when the load is moderate, the motor vibrates (not continues, lighting on brushes) and heats up very quickly. Do you have same problem?
So I think that your connection will work for 110vac in the US, but is it fine for lowering 220vac down to 130vdc? I am considering to smooth the output by using a pi filter!! I hope that will work for my motor!! Do you have any suggestions?
@@RustyGlovebox my local supply is 3 wire, one 220v, one neutral line which is 0V, and the third is ground wire!! so I need to get a step down transformer to lower the voltage to 120V!! Or else, use the SCR to control the cycle of the AC, and then smooth that out to a clean dc!!
Rusty, Hi, I am wanting to install a DC Speed Controller on my treadmill. I am not an electrician and need help with which Speed Controller will work with my DC Motor. My motor is: DC 90 Volts & 20 Amps. All of the Controllers seem to be lower volts and lower Amps. Can you please post a link to an appropriate Speed Controller I can buy on Amazon that will work with my Motor. I appreciate it. Motor: DC 90 Volts & 20 Amps
I don't think I would use one of these on a treadmill. Try looking at this link. www.surpluscenter.com/Electric-Motors/DC-Motors/Motor-Speed-Controllers/90-180-Volt-DC-Variable-Speed-Control-w-Potentiometer-Minarik-MM23001C-000D-11-2269.axd
Also, yours is one of the best videos on the subject and I'm saving it for future reference. Do you suppose it is possible to get an iPhone to read revolutions? What program?
Great explanation, but I am wondering why you converted your power to the motor to DC when the motor is wired for 130V AC ? I acquired a 3HP 120V single phase motor from a professional grade treadmill and was hopping to build a belt sander with it. The treadmill has a variable speed controller panel along with a multitude of other functions which I don’t need. All I want is the variable speed part but I’m not sure how to get rid of all the functions I don’t need. Maybe it’s not as complicated as it looks. I haven’t spent to much time on it yet. Thx for sharing your talent ,I need to have you for a neighbour .LOL. Have a great day.
You showed the slowest speed as 484 with the old Potentiometer, but did you get a slower speed with the replacement and what speed was that? I'd like to be able to control the motor all the way down to around 100rpm's or so.
The treadmill motors are about 130 volt DC with a higher amp draw than maybe a router. What I show is how to take AC and convert to DC. You my find something but it will cost more. Good luck
Hello, if someone could help me I'd be eternally grateful I'm pretty much doing this exact same setup but I'm having problems. The motor will turn on when I power the circuit, but right off the bat it's drawing too much current. I checked the common with a clamp meter and it was already at 8 amps. Motor wasn't under load, and I had it going as slow as I possibly could... I was measuring some of the resistance values across the controller and they seemed way too large- in the mega ohm range... Something is definitely wrong but I'm not sure what.
Just add a 50 to 1 gear reduction box to your motor and you’ll have plenty of tourque. Mind you they are expensive if you have to purchase a new one but you never know you might be able to find a used one cheap.
quick question. I have built a 2 x 72 belt grinder from a treadmill motor, a KBPC5010 rectifier and the same controller you used and and I keep blowing bridge rectifiers. Any suggestion?
My 2.9hp, 8000rpm treadmill motor will power my disk/belt combination sander. Would a 4000W AC 220V controller work for this application, or would you recommend 10000W controller? What is the reason for using a 10000W controller on these motors? Thank you
My reason was hopefully for durability in hope it wouldn't over heat overtime. Great to hear of your project . I'm planning to use this one on a belt sander too. Good luck
I don't know how the manufacturer can claim it produces 2.5 hp. It draws 10A of 130V DC at full load, so even if there are no losses, you only have (130*10)/746 = 1.7 hp input. I'm guessing the manufacturer cheated and calculated hp from breakdown torque, which isn't the fair way to do that since the motor won't survive for long when overdriven.
I scrapped out a treadmill some time back, I just kept the motor,, I had at one time thought about building a generator but so far it's still sitting on the shelf.
Interesting Lloyd. Never had the need for a variable speed motor, although did once consider a washing machine motor for one. Quickly became apparent a lot of electronics are used in these.
Not a rheostat Rusty. It's a potentiometer. A rheostat is simply a variable resistance used to control power to a load. A potentiometer uses three terminals thus enabling a variable voltage to be tapped off from the slider. Rheostats are usually much beefier that potentiometers because they are generally used in high-power situations.
Have you ever had one of these units be bad from the start? I am not seeing any adjustment when checking the AC side. So I hooked up the bridge rectifier and no motor. Flipped it on and it blew a circuit. All wires were hooked up just like you have. I then tried the second bridge rectifier and no sparks but no control at all of the voltage getting through. It is a constant 40V DC.
Any ideas? All parts are exact same specs as what you used.
Thanks for any help.
Gary
It could be bad from the start. I would be sure to connect the rectifier up correctly. Good luck.
Thanks for the reply. I got 2 rectifiers with it and they both check good. And they were indeed hooked up correctly. To make sure I watched your video while I wired it.
They are sending a replacement for the power unit.
I have wired 2 complete motor controllers for my CNC Plus making the power supply for them. So this should be pretty easy.
When I get the new one I will check to see if it works without the rectifier first. I should see a change in AC voltage which I am not with this unit so hard to expect it to make the DC variable either.
Thanks for the reply.
Gary
My replacement speed controller arrived and I hooked it up in steps Put the power cable on and made sure it would power on. Then unhooked the cord and attached the rectifier all was still good. Finally hooked the motor to it and it works fine other than the potentiometer and I have the one you recommended ready to swap out.
So it appears I had a bad SCR unit on the first one.
Thanks again,
Gary
Thanks for sharing. I installed it to a powerful treadmill motor for a mini lathe. It was very easy to use and also cheap. It cost me 20 Dollars only. Thanks again.
Great to hear! Thanks and Take care
Wouldn't you be better served with a full wave bridge rectifier in conjunction with a run capacitor? This would give you full form dc voltage instead of variable (inconsistent) dc output voltage.
Could be better.
Dan Chan
The rectifier Rusty Glovebox used here is a Full Wave Bridge Rectifier !
@@NavinBetamax what about the capacitor? Wouldn't it improve voltage stability?
There should be a trim pot on the PCB for adjusting minimum turn on voltage.
Possible but didn't see one , Thanks
I need this set up for a project but require a foot control pedal. Would you suggest the foot control pedal on the incoming AC side before the SCR or the control pedal after the full bridge rectifier on the DC side? I was thinking about using a sewing machine foot pedal unless there's better options.
Using a foot control pedal on the incoming AC side before the SCR would be the least expensive . Good luck
Really appreciate how simple your setup is. Thank you for sharing and taking the time to record, edit and share your ideas with all of us who appreciate your effort. Cheers
Thanks, appreciate your comment.
@Rusty Glovebox Sir how to connect the wiring from motor to speed controller box, can you please tell
I used this set up for a 4.25 HP DC treadmill motor. (4.25 HP Leili Treadmill Motor L-315219) I have not put the choke in yet. Nor did I replace the Pot yet. Ir runs smooth as silk and tops out at about 4,720 RPMs. Very constant RPM at that point. The stated RPM max for this motor is 5,195 at 130 colts, DC. - will the Pot or the choke add to the RPMs or is it something else I am missing. Thanks for all the help, this is awesone.
If your AC voltage 110 to 120 it won’t reach the 130 DC volts may not not reach the max rpm rating of the motor. Hope this helps
@@RustyGlovebox As I thought, thanks again and I appreciate the help, I will work in a 36" wide drum sander with this motor, If it is not enough, I can always hook up a second one on the opposite side of the axle.
I have a question. I used this video to put a treadmill motor on my old ShopSmith and it works great. My question is that when I try to read the output of the rectifier sending current to the motor, I get no readings at all. Any ideas on this?
Sorry it took a while to get back with you. The rectifier may be burned out.
my next project I think will be a drillpress..I have already built a rock tumbler/polisher I made from a treadmill and I made a 240vac to 12vdc transformer/rectifier to run it at a constant slow speed, I also fitted a faan from a microwave to keep the electronics cool..It has been running almost non stop for 3 months now without an issue..They are such a handy motor and freely available at most tip shops..Thanks for your video.
Thanks, I agree they have a lot of possibilities
Very interesting as a rock tumbler is what I also want to do. I completed the control and it tests out fine. I was going to use an ATV tire for the tumbler cradled in two rotating shafts, one powered by the motor, but I am wondering if I can control the speed accurately enough to allow the roks to climb up the wall of the tire and fall back. What did you do?
I basically just cut and shut the treadmill and moved the tail roller up close to the drive roller..I stripped all of the wiring out of the unit and made a 240v-12v transformer with a bridge rectifier after it then through a power switch to the motor..The speed is perfect for tumbling..I made a tumbling drum from a rideon mower tyre and it works great..I have since made two more drums from some heavy walled 6' polly irrigation pipe with screw on caps threaded into the poly made from plywood and lined with plain old white nylon cutting board..Feel free to check my facebook page "Wayneos Creations" for some photos of this and other lapidary machins I have built from dumped parts..
@@CharQ67
Hi I have the same motor controller and rectifier as you have I removed the 500 K and replaced it with a 200 K . But the motor is still turning too fast for what I want . Using it on a wood band saw to convert it to a metal cutting so it needs to go slower maybe 200 RPM . If I hook the motor to my bench top power supply I can get to start turning at 1 volt really slow . Is there such a pot that is smaller than 200 K ? Any help would be appreciated thanks Robert
The easiest way would be to change the pulleys to get a lower speed.
I wonder if some capacitors could be put on the dc side to even things out?
That might be worth a try
I know some time has passed since you made this video but I’m looking for some answers. I have a SCR that I’m using to power a dc motor on a small lathe. The POT, as with yours, needs changing to a smaller one. My problem is that the SCR’s POT has only two wires and most all POTS I’ve seen and have has three prongs on them. I’m having difficulty finding any information on how to replace the factory(2 wire) POT with a lower POT with 3 wires. How do you wire the new 3 wire POT? Thanks for any suggestions.
I’m doing something wrong. The AC out does vary but when I measured after the bridge rectifier the DC voltage remains around 105 no matter where I turn the potentameter.
The rectifier must be blown
How do I test a rectifier with a multi meter? Is there something I did to blow it, like hooking up wrong? What size rectifier do I need, 130V motor from treadmill.
thanks for that
its wonderful idea
i need to know siur how can you join the 220v ac speed controller with 130v dc you change the ac to dc by abrige
but the difrent still btween 220 and 130 ?
You can use a step down transformer that reduces 220 to 120 vac. These transformers aren't too expensive . Good luck
@@RustyGlovebox the electric in my contry is 220v and i have a treadmill motor with 180v dc is that mean i must useing a transformer?
or just goin it with speed control and bridge?
@@nofab5270 You will need to check the output without the transformer. If it is too high then you will need a transformer to reduce the input ac voltage.
@@RustyGlovebox thanks for all this information
Have you done any tests comparing operation without the ferrite ring? Or have you considered adding a capacitor to clean up the signal?
I have not tried it with a capacitor. It will operate without the rings but they are suppose to help absorb some of the amp surge . Good luck on using the capacitor
I built this without the ring. It's for a light display project and the Load on the motor seams to be too much and the rectifier keeps burning up. I was wondering if it's because I need a capacitor.
Thanks for the great video! I have a 90 volt motor that has a red white and green wire for power. I have the controller but the controller isn't putting out the voltage to the motor. The motor also has a cable harness coming out with two black one blue one yellow and one red wire and the harness is fairly small. I couldn't find the wiring diagram for this treadmill but found one for a different one that looks similar and shows the wires are three grounds 15 volt in one pulse. I'm assuming this is for pwm purposes. Being that your scratch go straight to the power of the motor, do you know if I can do this as well or do I have to get a pwm power supply?
What did you do about the third terminal on the pot you installed. The SCR only has two wires .
Thanks
You don't need to use it. Thanks
I see you have grounded the speed control case, did you also ground the case of the motor and if so, did you daisy chain the ground off the speed control to the motor or split the ground wire and attached one to the motor and one to the speed control case?
I used the ground terminal provided on the busbar for the motor ground.
@@RustyGlovebox Rusty my question wasn't clear - I see the controller being ground by the wire coming from the ac plug via the electrical cord, (Ultimately the busbar) I don't see anything other than the positive and neutral being connected directly to the motor itself, is that correct?
Great video, Thank you for sharing. I used all the same components except the ferrite and hooked it up to my old Craftsman lathe. Worked great for about a week and in the middle of turning a bowl the motor jumped up to full speed and I shut it down. It was a little warm ( not hot) so let it cool down and tried it again and as soon as you power it up it runs at full speed. Any suggestions?
Probably the SCR/Triac shorted out and is a short circuit internally and the motor is running as though it is directly connected to mains power through the rectifier. Happens in cheap power supplies with bargain basement design, protection and components.
I've got a 500w motor from a electric dirt bike. I'm assuming I'd need a smaller controller for that motor? I'm hoping to adapt this motor to a honey extractor I'm upgrading.
You can get a small inexperience controller on ebay or amazon. Good luck on your build.
I was wondering if you can use a speed controller from a razor e-bike to run a treadmill motor?
Might be worth a try. I have not tried that. Let us know how it does. Thanks
Hello, I'm curious whether the big weight on the shaft is essential. Could it be discarded in fair if a gear or pulley or should those be adapted incorporating the weight?
MrRule308x Yes it could be removed. Not necessary, the other end has the cooling fan.
@@RustyGlovebox thank you!
I am building my DC treadmill motor controller like you, but I do not understand the effect of your ferrite core?
#1: 2-1/2 ' of what guage wire
#2: you use it on the DC side of the bridge rectifier, and it is my understanding the choke has no effect on DC?
With DC it is just similar to a resistor ...
#3: How many Henry does your choke create?
Thanks for your video!
I subscribed to your channel!
The ferrite core works like a shock absorber when you change motor speed lowering the voltage spike. I used 12 gauge wire.
Did the pot you added only have 2 wires running to it instead for 3?
It had 3 but I only used 2. Works good. Thanks
Rusty Glovebox so on your new pot which contacts did you wire up. High Low or Wiper?
My treadmill stopped working from putting it in storage and taking it out 6 months later. I bought a speed controller off ebay and it runs the treadmill from slow to very fast but at any speed as soon as i get on it the belt stops moving and no it's not a weight issue. Any ideas. The motor is a 102VDC / 18amp. The controller is Adjustable PWM DC Motor Speed Controller AC 110V to DC 24V-90V for DC Motor 400W
You might check Treadmill Doctor videos, good luck
th-cam.com/video/lOIQoHR5OWk/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=TreadmillDoctor
My treadmill's board is broken, the motor is good. Will this option shown in the video work for my treadmill please ? Th treadmill is Weslo compact SL.
This won't work for a tread mill. You will need to get a replacement board
I have exactly the same controller, the pot has only 2 wires attached but the one I bought has 3 legs, can you tell me where you attached the two wires?
You use the center pin and either one of the other outer pin. One way it will be slow to fast, the other it will be fast to slow.
@@RustyGlovebox thanks, I was kinda confused,, electronics is very difficult for me, thanks again.
I have just put one of these things together. Same specs as yours. Question is, Im thinking of adding an inductor, what inductor to use. Something like a simple ferro inductor. What size?
Not sure but would be nice to have.
Hi, Great tutorial. I have finally got hold of a treadmill motor for my belt grinder project. the motor has a Ground/earth wire coming out of it as well the positive and negative. should this be earthed to thee body of the machine, or something different?
Sorry, Hard to say without seeing it.
I look forward to seeing this motor again. That is a useful item . Nice control module Lloyd, I learned something today for sure.
Thanks Bob, Now that the motor is working. I will start collecting parts for the build. Take care
Excellent job of explaining everything. I think the best I have seen.
Couple questions: How much torque does it have at lower RPM? I currently have a small metal lathe using a treadmill motor and the board is having issues. I am able to turn it very slow and have lots of torque and want to still have it for threading.
The other question is when you use the potentiometer that came with it you turn it clockwise to increase the speed. When you swapped it out it looks like you turned it clockwise to slow it down?
Or was I seeing things?
I know this is an older video and I hope you see it and can answer those questions.
Again the best job of explaining I have seen.
Gary
I know a couple of people that have used this and have been happy with theirs.
The pot switch had 3 pins , so it can be wired either way.
@@RustyGlovebox thanks for the reply. I was wondering if it had much torque it had a lot RPM?
The treadmill I have, on the controller board it's marked u v w. I understand it's for 3 phase. Can I still use the controller your showing. If yes which of the wires is the common? There all black.
No, you have an AC motor not a DC
I may have missed it in the video but what was you DC voltage to the motor with this setup?
The motor was a dc motor from a tread mill and I was converting ac voltage to operate the motor. The bridge rectifier made it possible and the controller variate the speed.
Excuse my ignorance, but is there a reason not to use the speed control circuit/hardware that comes with most tread mills? Also many of them have a "tach" or range value on a small screen to use say for a belt sander. I think I may be missing something? Thanx, G>
Thanks Gerry, I got my motor from someone that parted out an old treadmill that the control board failed. I expect this happens somewhat often. The motors are 2hp or more so they are worth the effort to save. Take care
Why does the rheostat work backwards? CC to turn on and speed up, CW to slow down.
Can flip the wires on the rheostat and the switch would work the opposite direction.
Hi Rusty, great video. I made the same setup yesterday using exactly the same parts as you. Even mounted the bridge rectifier in the same spot. We are on 230 volt here in Australia and I had purchased a new potentiometer in preparation for this project but to my surprise the 500k unit that was in it works really well so no need to change it. I also bought a 12v tacho and have a small 12v computer fan going in the control box. Also decided that as well as using the ferrite ring I am going to put the original EMI filter in the box as well so the control box is going to be about the size of a small shoe box but I’m ok with that. Another thing I like about the controller is that the wires on the potentiometer allows for remote mounting of it. I have a couple of treadmill motors but this is my first conversion. I’m going to mount it on my 6 inch wide belt sander as being able to vary the speed on it will be very useful for me. A word of caution if I may: I don’t think using this set up on a lathe or drill press is ideal if you, like me, are drilling larger hole in steel as the issue of torque comes into it. To keep it simple for everyone let’s say your motor is rated at 1 hp and the rpm is 1700. That 1hp is fixed so when you slow the speed down to say 170 rpm with the controller you still have 1hp available BUT when you change the same speeds using belts or gears you have a reduction ratio of 10 - 1 effectively now giving you the torque of a 10hp motor. I have seen comments on other videos where people are complaining that using these motors doesn’t give them enough torque when they slow the machine down for heavy work. There is a way around the problem but that’s for another time unless someone wants me to explain. This conversion is still good for people doing mainly woodwork or only working with light metal though and I have already ordered the parts for a second conversion as I am making a 2x72 belt sander. Hope this helps. Cheers Stuart 🇦🇺
Yes that's is the issue, at 4000 rpm i would use a pulley drive at 3:1 reduction = 1333 rpm and increase the torque at the lower speeds.
Just tell em to buy a PWM motor controller instead of SCR, problem solved! Phil 🇦🇺 . . . and I stole your flag icon Stuart.
@@jed2055 Now what am I going to use😂😂😂 Hey Jed, in the years since I posted this comment I have changed things again. With VFD’s now available for under $100aud delivered I have changed to a three phase motor. Several issues came up with the treadmill motors but the main issue was the sensitivity to load of the dc motor. At the moment second hand three phase motors are still cheep, I paid $50 for a 3hp WEG unit (Brazil) and I get the benefit of ac for speed stability under load and the benefit of dc style speed control. It really is a win win. Another issue with the treadmill motors is the fact they have an open frame with big magnets and I manly work with metal. That can lead to a short circuit or maybe even a fire. I recently purchased a Bridgeport style mill and used a VFD to convert it and another advantage of a VFD is that I set the gears and pulleys to the highest speed and can reduce the rpm down to whatever I need at the turn of a dial. They also give me soft start and other benefits so for me at least 3 phase + VFD is the way forward.
Cheers Stuart.
What is the purpose of those small metal donuts with the wires wrapped through them?
It work like a shock absorber to limit voltage spikes on electronics
Very helpful for changing out the motor on my wood lathe. Thanks for a quick fix solution for a tread mill motor.
Thanks Paul, I have plan sometimes in the future to build my own belt sander replacing my current belt sander. Take care
Have all the parts together for controller and running. Notice my motor is running CCW direction. Can this setup be change to a CW treadmill motor?
@@paulmoreno5780 Just swap the 2 wires will change direction of the motor.
Can you please give me the SCR specifications for a treadmill motor 1.5 hp 6.5amps.
Enjoyed the video. I have the same controller and bridge rectifier and am getting ready to put it together to use on a 2x72 homebuilt belt grinder. Your video will help immensly.
One other question, I noticed in your video the red frame apprentice in the background. What is that?
I built a power hammer for my forge when I use it. Thanks
I got all the same components, and hooked them up the same way, and for some reason when I hooked the farad ring up the motor went on half power with the pot turned all the way down, and then the controller wouldn't work at all after... suggestions?
Hard to say, but your pot switch might have burned up ? Just have to check it out
@@RustyGlovebox good thing I bought a spare haha. I'll check it out. Thanks!
Screw terminal terminations should be bare copper wire without solder for best connection
Thanks for the info.
I have a similar setup and would like to remove the fly wheel but can’t get that buggar to loosen ( no way to grab hold on the armature shaft), any suggestions?
You could use a standard pulley . Then drill and tap between the end of the shaft and pulley. Or maybe a tapered sleeve pulley that clamps on the shaft
big red, Can you give me a diagram as to what you are referring to with the missing trim pot? Diagram how to wire it in. Thanks,
Sorry , no diagram
Hello, Let me know what is output voltage range of that controller, please.
it starts at about 20 volts and goes up to 120 volts
Rusty - sorry for the constant question - so if I want more than 110v dc output, I would have to put 220 into the SCR - how would that be wired in the us?
It would require a different SCR with 2 positive locations on the busbar to use 220 single phase.
@@RustyGlovebox Rusty, when I added a volt meter with the donut thing on it to measure dc volts, and coiled the positive wire around it 4 times, same voltage but pick up in RPM to 5200 - so I would think that if I would have used the core choke as you did, it would have solved the rpm issue as well; Now running at 5200 rpm with no issues, thanks for all your help!
Thanks for parts list and clear instructions. I wired it up and works great. I'm going to put it on my wood lathe.
Glad it helped
What is the wattage value for the200K Potentiometer? Does it matter ho big it is?
Hi, can you tell us what wattage value did you use. The 5k pot is rated 2w. I ordered one but is only 0.5w. Does it matter. Will it work or burn. Plan to use on a 125v, 2.5 hp motor. Thanks.
Thanks for showing us this really great video! I hope you don't mind if I ask: what was the slowest RPM sustainable with the 200K rheostat? What would the slowest working RPM for that motor be, and would an even lower rated rheostat (in Ohms?) still work and be even better? I'm looking for a low RPM application without the use of a gear reducer, but maybe whatever two #35 chain sprockets would give could be used. I'm trying to make a motorized, 120v to 12v dc powered cart to move heavy things around the shop and yard slowly. Any advice you have would be gratefully accepted! Would a PWM controller be better? I'm also thinking of using mobility scooter motors since they have a brake installed (DC, but only usually like 50W each, so not too much HP, alas) Thank you!
It would run at 500 rpm's, not sure how it would to pull a heavy load.
A mobility scooter PWM controller and motor would be better to make a cart. Most of the parts are there.
@@RustyGlovebox I thought the high-ohm reo. ran at 500. Thanks for your answer, I appreciate the consideration!
Lloyd this is a great tutorial! Thanks :) I do have a question: I've completed a wood lathe motor upgrade project using the same controller, bridge rectifier and toroid coil but at low RPMs the motor bucks around, jumps and the power fluctuates quite dramatically. If I speed it up above 800 rpm or so it smooths out to otherwise normal operation. Any idea why this might be? Anything I can do fix that?
If you operate at low rpm’s more often you could lower the pulley ratio to get lower drive speed and increase the motor rpm. Good luck
@@RustyGlovebox that's definitely an option. Unfortunately, I've got limited space and the aim I had with switching over to something variable speed was to eliminate the need to go back there and switch the belt around. Might I have the wrong type of motor? Is there something about low RMP under load with this setup that's not compatible?
Hi, my controller has four slots P+, P-, M+,M-, what wires would go in what places.
Will the model number to see if I can help
not sure if anyone can help me, but I've set this up on my treadmill, however, when I turn it on, the motor makes a loud humming noise. Also, when I step on the treadmill whilst running, the noise gets worse and then eventually trips the electrical box it's connected to. Any help or advice would be much appreciated.
Just wondering....what is your opinion on running this motor Without the Flywheel on it?.....and just the 10 groove pulley ( or a V- pulley).....such as for a small lathe.
I ask for a few different reasons....i understand the Inertia may be needed for certain circumstances.....such as on the the Treadmill.....as someone is running and creating a 'Pulsing' in the drivetrain with each step....the flywheel would help smooth it out and remain constant.
However, on a small lathe, im thinking there really isnt much Pulsing action and the flywheel may not be Needed.
Your thoughts appreciated
They make good lathe motors. The serpentine or a v-belt would work fine . If you need a positive drive you could use a cog belt and pulley setup. The flywheel wouldn't be required as long as the cooling fan isn't part of it. Good luck
@@RustyGlovebox Thnx for the Reply. Sounds as tho my thots are/were correct...about not needing the flywheel....for purposes of most machining applications. As said, im thinking the steps/percussions of Running on the treadmill is the reason for the flywheel.
Yes, my 9x20 lathe uses a Cog drive....which could be retrofitted to the 14mm shaft much easier than many of the LeftHand threaded shafts on many of these motors.
IF i were to install a 150K POT(instead of the 200K), what do U suspect the function of speed would be?.....as considering this for a Belt Grinder drive
A 150 or 100 might be a good choice. They are very inexpensive. Good luck
This would work for a Bandsaw too? I've got a treadmill motor and I want to put that on my bandsaw
It should work good for a band saw. I'm planning a belt sander build later this year. Good luck
In mikemanmade's video (which this guy copied) he hooks it up to a band saw but he didn't change the motor, I would be interested to see a video if you do it!
What if I install 100K potentiometer instead of the 200K you installed on yours? Will that improve it even more?
I also noticed you installed yours differently than what was there before. You had to turn the knob counterclockwise, maybe?
Also, a choke, a capacitor maybe to smooth things out? I am not sure.
You ask a good question and you will need to try it for yourself to see if it powers what you what to operate. thanks
Thanks for the great video. I‘m using this setup on a 180 v dc motor with 2,2kw on 230v ac. But the motor is producing a very weird pulse noise that sounds like the frequency is false or something like that. Do you have any ideas? The motor runs and is powerfull but the sound is not so reassuring.
Sorry, don't know what causes that.
If the motor is marked with 180v, then that is the max voltage. If you have it on 230v, you are using a voltage that is to high.
I bought two of these and wired both like you said. Both of them shorted out when power was turned on. Any ideas would help
Make sure you have a brush type DC motor, what does it say on the tag? .Disconnect the the motor, with a multimeter on the DC settings check to see if you are getting a variable DC voltage on the output wires to the motor. If not make sure the Bridge Rectifier Diode is connected in the correct order. On the motor check the motor brushes. Are they in good condition? Check with a multimeter on the ohms setting if the motor windings are shorted out for the wires to the motor case. Good luck
@@RustyGlovebox thanks for the info.The motor runs fine with the treadmill control board. Also the rectifier I got does not say ac, it has a + and a wavy line on it. My thoughts were the line represents ac.
I checked and found that I have a brushless motor.
Built this. Installed on a drill press. RPM's drop considerably when drilling. Any ideas for a solution to keep RPM constant as load is applied?
Sorry, not sure other than changing the pulley size
Thank you Rusty. Can you safely change the direction of the DC motor when it says Clockwise motor? Great video by the way. Very easy to understand.
The motors I've seen I have not been able to change the direction of these motors.Good luck
Rusty Glovebox Thanks Rusty.
Swap the connections on the rectifier going to the motor and the motor changes direction.
How did you wire the potentiometer, it has 3 prongs and only 2 wires, I’ve tried several configurations and soon as I give it power it goes to full speed with no speed control
The one I used had 3 but I only used 2. Use the center and one left or right. Depending on which one you use it will start low speed to high or high speed to low. Good luck
@@RustyGlovebox so did you go black wire center and red left or right, if so do you remember if you used left or right?
You will have to test it.
much thanks for the great video. question is, what is you are using a speed controller with only an one in, one out, and one com? Also the on off rocker i have has three prongs (one being copper).
One black power wire in, one white neutral wire in and branches back out, One green ground wire to switch body. Good luck
When I turn on my machine it spins at full speed.
The speed does not decrease.
What to do.plss
I have just put a 2hp treadmill motor on my wood lathe, I used the control boards from the treadmill. It does a great job doing finish turning, however when I rough turn my green blanks at a slower speed it is lacking the torque needed for the job. Will using your method give be better torque at slower speeds? You have done another great job instructing us rookies Thanks
Thanks, I can't really answer if it increases torque or not . Good luck if you try it
Hi. Thanks your video. I do the same. And there is a problem when the load is moderate, the motor vibrates (not continues, lighting on brushes) and heats up very quickly. Do you have same problem?
No, mine has run smooth.
Congratulations sr. I have a engine DC 3000w to 24Vdc, can I controller it with this method.
Thanks, give it a try
Will this setup power a drill press with adequate torque at low speeds, say 250 rpm? Thx
Several people used these on drill presses and they have worked well.
So I think that your connection will work for 110vac in the US, but is it fine for lowering 220vac down to 130vdc? I am considering to smooth the output by using a pi filter!! I hope that will work for my motor!! Do you have any suggestions?
Eric Chan That may work using a filter. Do you have have 2 or 3 wire 220vac
@@RustyGlovebox my local supply is 3 wire, one 220v, one neutral line which is 0V, and the third is ground wire!! so I need to get a step down transformer to lower the voltage to 120V!! Or else, use the SCR to control the cycle of the AC, and then smooth that out to a clean dc!!
Rusty, Hi, I am wanting to install a DC Speed Controller on my treadmill. I am not an electrician and need help with which Speed Controller will work with my DC Motor. My motor is: DC 90 Volts & 20 Amps. All of the Controllers seem to be lower volts and lower Amps. Can you please post a link to an appropriate Speed Controller I can buy on Amazon that will work with my Motor. I appreciate it.
Motor: DC 90 Volts & 20 Amps
I don't think I would use one of these on a treadmill. Try looking at this link.
www.surpluscenter.com/Electric-Motors/DC-Motors/Motor-Speed-Controllers/90-180-Volt-DC-Variable-Speed-Control-w-Potentiometer-Minarik-MM23001C-000D-11-2269.axd
Also, yours is one of the best videos on the subject and I'm saving it for future reference. Do you suppose it is possible to get an iPhone to read revolutions? What program?
I have not tried to use an iPhone to read rpm's but I bet you can with the right App. Thanks
Great explanation, but I am wondering why you converted your power to the motor to DC when the motor is wired for 130V AC ?
I acquired a 3HP 120V single phase motor from a professional grade treadmill and was hopping to build a belt sander with it. The treadmill has a variable speed controller panel along with a multitude of other functions which I don’t need. All I want is the variable speed part but I’m not sure how to get rid of all the functions I don’t need. Maybe it’s not as complicated as it looks. I haven’t spent to much time on it yet.
Thx for sharing your talent ,I need to have you for a neighbour .LOL. Have a great day.
The motor was out of a treadmill. It was a variable speed brush type dc motor 130 volt and won't operate on a.c. current.
Thank you for that. Have a good one.
Any chance you can show us how Make a walking pad go faster? Most of them top out at 4 mph
I'm sure it can be done but would be different for each brand or model.
Can the AC go directly into the Bridge Rectifier and then into a controller?
The controller come first because it is made to operate on ac current. That is why you convert it to dc afterwards. Good luck on your project
Very cool fix Lloyd , I run my lathe on one and the mill as well , Great power and works AWESOME !
Thanks Shawn, I had this motor for a while but now control board for it. This will make all the difference. Take care
That's a great idea. There are sure a lot of uses for a variable speed high-power electric motor! Good job. Thanks Lloyd.
Thanks Bruce, I have plans for this motor and looking forward to starting on it. Have a great week.
One more question what gauge wire do you use going to the controller/to bridge rectifier
Can be any motor from treadmill ? Thanks
Is there a grinder in your future?
I'm wanting to build a nice belt sander using this motor. Not sure when I will get started on that. Thanks Marsh and have a great week
Does SCR for 220V works for 110V without any adjustments? I see: there is a 110V 4000W on sale!
I believes that is correct
Possible to charge batteries for off grid power using with wind turbine?
They make good ones but I am thinking of using it on a belt sander. Thanks and take care
You showed the slowest speed as 484 with the old Potentiometer, but did you get a slower speed with the replacement and what speed was that? I'd like to be able to control the motor all the way down to around 100rpm's or so.
It can be done . May need to upgrade to a heavier duty rectifier too for the added amp load at low rpms
Would a DC controller not work..i see them for like $12
The treadmill motors are about 130 volt DC with a higher amp draw than maybe a router. What I show is how to take AC and convert to DC. You my find something but it will cost more. Good luck
So how slow can you turn it without losing torque
Hello, if someone could help me I'd be eternally grateful
I'm pretty much doing this exact same setup but I'm having problems. The motor will turn on when I power the circuit, but right off the bat it's drawing too much current. I checked the common with a clamp meter and it was already at 8 amps. Motor wasn't under load, and I had it going as slow as I possibly could... I was measuring some of the resistance values across the controller and they seemed way too large- in the mega ohm range... Something is definitely wrong but I'm not sure what.
Is it ok to plug it in into 110ac outlet even though that scr is a 220v?
You have to chose one or the other to calibrate it to.
Where does one get a speed-reading gizmo and what is it called? Anybody?
Ebay or Amazon have them for sale. Thanks
For the potentiometer, how do I know what resistance to get on it, or does it not matter too much?
You see what speed it operates at and judge from there
Nice job! What gage wire are you using?
14 gauge is what I had available but it should do fine. Thanks
so after changing reostat how slow was you able to achive ?. i need to get down to 50 rpm ?
To get it that slow you may need a different reostat. Possibly a 100k will work better for you. Good luck
@@RustyGlovebox and then i worry that this slow the torque would be very weak ?
You might have better luck setting up pwm. I don't even know if the rectifier would run it that slowly, and even if it did you'd have no torque.
Just add a 50 to 1 gear reduction box to your motor and you’ll have plenty of tourque. Mind you they are expensive if you have to purchase a new one but you never know you might be able to find a used one cheap.
well done Lloyd i am sure there are many people out there who will find this video very helpful
Thanks Bob, A factory control panel was over hundred dollars. I had to find a better option than that. Enjoy your week.
quick question. I have built a 2 x 72 belt grinder from a treadmill motor, a KBPC5010 rectifier and the same controller you used and and I keep blowing bridge rectifiers. Any suggestion?
This is a 75 amp bridge rectifier with heat sink that may work.
FSB 75A 1000V Aluminum Heatsink Base Single Phase Bridge Rectifier Diode
@@RustyGlovebox Thank you, I will order one today!
@@RustyGlovebox I just ordered one on Amazon. Should have it next week. I will let you know how it goes. Thanks Again.
can this setting power up dc current HiPowerLED lamp?
Not sure, never tried that.
@@RustyGlovebox ok, thank for reply!
My 2.9hp, 8000rpm treadmill motor will power my disk/belt combination sander. Would a 4000W AC 220V controller work for this application, or would you recommend 10000W controller? What is the reason for using a 10000W controller on these motors? Thank you
My reason was hopefully for durability in hope it wouldn't over heat overtime. Great to hear of your project . I'm planning to use this one on a belt sander too. Good luck
Hi Rusty
Do you think a 4000W controller would work, but might get too hot after a few minutes?
It will depend on the load put on the motor. Just not sure
Roger that.
Think I'm going to go with the 10000W just to keep things cool.
Cheers
Great information Lloyd! I'll be keeping my eyes open for a treadmill motor. Thanks!
Thanks Todd, I have plans for it in the future. Have a great week.
I don't know how the manufacturer can claim it produces 2.5 hp. It draws 10A of 130V DC at full load, so even if there are no losses, you only have (130*10)/746 = 1.7 hp input. I'm guessing the manufacturer cheated and calculated hp from breakdown torque, which isn't the fair way to do that since the motor won't survive for long when overdriven.
Great video, . . . can the 200k Potentiometer allow it to run at really slow speed ? thanks in advance
Thanks, no problems so far
@@RustyGlovebox - I want to run direct drive to a bead roller, so i want it creep really slowly
I scrapped out a treadmill some time back, I just kept the motor,, I had at one time thought about building a generator but so far it's still sitting on the shelf.
I got mine to build a generator at first but decided to use as a motor instead, now that I have this controller. Thanks and take care.
Interesting Lloyd. Never had the need for a variable speed motor, although did once consider a washing machine motor for one. Quickly became apparent a lot of electronics are used in these.
A good strong variable speed motor works good on a belt sander. Thanks Malc and take care
Did the same set up but the motor sparked very badly and the ac power supply got warm till it blow fuse, anyone any ideas?
The motor must have an internal short causing sparking and over heating