Right now i'm in the process of removing the stuff on & around the cylinder head of my daughter's '08 Forenza head gasket replacement. So far on your video everything are very informative and make sense & good explanations even the connectors. Thanks for posting.
Thank you Stuzman for these great videos, they helped me with the second gasket replacement! And now the 3rd.... with that fuel rail connector you can push the white connector IN and it will spread the clip for removal. I broke one of mine trying your way, easy fix from you-pull-it. Again, thanks!!!
@@stuzman52 hey, quick question for you. Getting ready to reassemble and opened the gasket kit and noticed some damage on the head gasket and noticed some damage on the nub on the intake side of the engine between pistons 2 and 3. The white line is partially damaged. Should a return be made or is the damage insignificant enough to not matter?
Maybe this should be renamed Part 2 and the 'Suzuki Forenza with Broken Timing Belt' be called Part 1. It was not until getting started on Head Removal Part 1 that I realized there was a former video with steps already taken. Awesome work on teaching and the video was very clear. Thank you!
I really appreciated the time you spent making the timing belt and water pump series. Watching this series now in preparation for more issues with that car. One thing, though, I made the mistake of pulling the coolant drain plug all the way out of the radiator right after I got it loose and spilled about half of my coolant. So, for anyone following me in this game, let the coolant flow around the drain plug for a good while so you can catch it.
Needing this online says a new head is about $800.00 bucks so hopefully I can make that purchase to get back on the road soon. Thanks again for these good quality helpful videos
Another option if you're doing the work is to get a quote from a machine shop to see what they will charge. If memory serves me correctly, it was $350 for the machine work. Of course, that didn't include the pricing of the valves, guides, seals, etc.
@@NP.TRU.09 Yes, the new or rebuilt head should come with all the components, but make sure before you purchase. Who knows, there may be some out there that doesn't include valves, etc.
Thank you very much Giz...I hope the videos can help you out if you ever need them. Oh yes, the dog is a sweetie pie, American Eskimo and her name is Josie. Greeting to you and all the fellow people in Finland from the U.S. Oh, I've started a new series on ABS sensors and diagnosis for another car if you're interested. Lots of detail in those also. More coming...
Hi wtfhellas! Thanks for the great compliment! Actually, I mentioned this, but it's in the previous video of the cylinder leak down test at timeline 1:10. For that cover, it's two socket head bolts where a 5mm hex bit will remove them. I'm not sure if you have watched all of the videos, but I believe it will cover every detail if you have to go as far as removing the head. So, if you don't mind me asking, what type of job are you getting ready to do? Thanks for watching!
Thanks Roman for the comment. Actually, the work of pulling the stuff off was pretty easy. I think my wife, the camera lady had the tougher job. Thanks again!
Thank you Darren for the compliment on the videos! The part 1, 2, etc. is embedded in the videos, but here's what I did. If you are another viewer starts looking at the 1st part of head removal, I have a description at timeline 6 sec explaining that you should review the timing belt broken video because of a few parts to remove beforehand. I also say that you can click here to go back to that video for reviewing. So, that should take care of you and anyone else. Thanks for that Darren!
Glad to hear Dohnwyn that you found an inexpensive repair and now you don't have to worry about a head gasket repair. Take care and thanks for commenting....
I gave some more thought to your question as it's not very clear. If you're asking, "I'm going to replace the head gasket. Do I need to replace/change the spark plugs?". If that's what you're asking, then no, you don't need to remove the plugs to replace the head gasket. But if you're going to replace the head gasket, you'll probably want to put new plugs in when you're done.
Ah, that's a pretty easy job. If you want to see the procedure of what I did with the plugs and wires, check out the Head Installation Part 9 at timeline 30:19 It will have the torque spec and gap setting there. Good luck on your repair.
If you're talking about the sensor beneath the EGR valve, I mentioned that it was the engine coolant temperature sensor at 8:41. If it's not that one, I'm not sure what sensor you're referring to. Have a great day!
Thank you for making this video and explaining everything so well, even as good as you did let it be known suzuki should have just stayed in the motorcycle and atv business, but thank you
+dgh ebgt If I remember there is a line in front of the coil which is for the EGR solenoid and it passes coolant through this tube into the head. If that is the one you're talking about, yes, there is a gasket for that tube that bolts up to the block.
Great videos, watched all on the forenza. I am having to replace the head gasket on my 05 forenza. The motors look the same. Are there any differences?
Your videos are great and very helpful. I didnt watch whole thing thou. I put the suzuki back together and didnt bleed the lifters i was wondering if thats why its has a little tick to it now.
rick varada Glad you liked the videos Rick. The reason for bleeding the lifters was to ensure that the valves wouldn't be held slightly open where the piston could come up and bend the valves again. It's more of a safety issue to prevent this. With the lifters bled, this would ensure that the valves will remain close when they're supposed to and prevent any damage to them. Then after about 10 minutes of running, the ticking should disappear. So, it's unlikely that not bleeding them caused your issue. Probably just a faulty lifter that's not pumping up as it should. I don't know how long it's been running, but it should only take a few minutes for it to disappear. Otherwise, you probably have a bad lifter...
Hi jacubv3. Surely you're not serious are you? To change the spark plugs, you do NOT remove the head gasket. To see the spark plugs changed on this engine, go to my last video, "Head Installation Part 9 (We're Done!) and you'll see the spark plugs changed. And the head is installed on the engine. Maybe you're talking about the spark plug cover which sits on top of the camshaft cover which covers the spark plugs If that's what you mean, then yes, that cover has to be removed. Thanks for watching!
Hey, absolutely loving these series of videos on the Suzuki Forenza 06! It's been a pain in the ass trying to find information on them. So my question to you is (and hopefully you are able to answer it) where is the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve? If you could please point to a particular time on one of your videos on this series so that I can get a good idea of the location as I am having a heck of a time finding it.
***** Hi James. On the 06 and later years, there isn't a IAC to be found. These years uses a DC motor which is controlled by the PCM. The IAC system was used on the previous years where there is a cable from the accelerator pedal to the throttle valve. On the later years that I mentioned earlier, there is no cable. These systems are usually referred to as drive-by-wire. In both cases of the IAC or DC motor, it's located on the throttle body. If you're not sure what that is, look at the hosing that goes from the air filter box and follow it towards the back of the engine. You'll see that this hosing, (3" to 4" in diameter) connects to a rectangular box which is called a resonator. From there, this resonator connects to the throttle body with a hose clamp. You'll have to remove the resonator and air hosing to see the throttle body more clearly. And on there, you'll see the IAC or DC motor depending on what year you're looking at. Hope that helps! And thanks for the comments on the videos!
Okay! This makes so much more sense now as to why everyone was talking about it but me not finding it! 2 other buddies and myself were standing over the open hood with the resonator off the throttle body looking for this thing. All we had were pictures of what the motor should look like but not where it went. We all knew that it SHOULD be attached to the throttle body but the picture is different from what is the 06. haha. So the DC motor must be what is on the right side of the thr. body then. I was looking for it b/c everywhere was saying to clean not only the throttle body but to remove the IAC and clean it too. Thank you for clearing this up for me. AllDataDIY.com was somewhat misleading to me then for my vehicle. My next mission is to replace my timing belt and with your videos I can't fail!
***** So James, it sounds like you have a 06 then. If so, you'll find that all of these videos are for that year. If you take a look in the head removal videos, I show how to remove the throttle body and I also talk about how to clean the unit. I believe it's in the intake and exhaust removal videos. Or it could be in the installation of the intake and exhaust videos. Mmmm, it's been awhile back. Just take your time on the timing belt change and you'll be fine. Take care and good luck on your repairs.
I have an 04 Suzuki Forenza. It keeps running hot because it’s losing water. I don’t think it has a water pump leak because I don’t see a leak anywhere. I believe my thermostat is good as well. There is some red looking gunk in my water reservoir, I’m thinking it’s bars leak. So is this a good indication that I have a blown head gasket? There’s also oil on my spark plugs as well.
I can't remember the details as the job was done years ago. If it's that tight, you may need a tensioner puller which is basically a thin bar where you can put different size sockets on it. Maybe that will help!
Hey thanks for the video, I couldn't have done it without your help. I do have a problem if you could help. I am having a problem that I didn't have before replacement. I now have excessive blow by in my throttle body which is causing problems with my air temp sensor and making my car putter. I was told it could be the PCV valve but I was told its located in the valve cover. So I was wondering, where the valve cover has a long piece that slid's into the head and seats into a hole between the camshafts, is there a grommet that goes there or does the valve cover tighten up the valve cover gasket tight to seal it? and if it isn't tight enough will that cause the issue? Thanks for any help.
From my memory, there is only the camshaft cover gasket and not any other gaskets or grommets. And I'm pretty sure that this car doesn't have a PCV valve as the ventilation is handled inside the camshaft cover through a passageway that's molded in it. How did you come to the conclusion that you're having excessive blowby and this is creating an issue with the intake air temp sensor?
Your nose should be a good indicator of where the leak is along with a puddle somewhere. Look around the engine bay, under the car and you should be able to find it.
Thanks for the speedy reply. Well after driving it for a couple of hours, I would come to a stop and it was puttering on exceleration and running rough but not running hot and the check engine light came on so I took it to advanced auto and the code PO113 came up which is the air temp sensor so i took off the air cleaner to remove the air temp sensor and there is excessive amount of oil in throttle body and air cleaner. Its so puddled up that it looks like almost strait oil and my air filter is black where the filter housing connects to the air cleaner. Thanks
Brian, once you clean all of the oil off the air temp sensor, how does the car run? Does it have good acceleration? And are you sure that you've got the timing marks aligned? Remember, you mentioned that the car ran fine before the job. I can't think of a reason why the car would have an excessive amount of oil blowing by unless the timing was off or that you've got worn piston rings allowing increased blow-by (probably not rings since it ran okay before). Since the car ran fine before, it's got to be something that's different now. Oh, by the way, the P0113 is saying that the PCM is seeing a voltage of 4.5VDC or higher. This means that the temp sensor is open or there is an open wire in that circuit. When you have oil around a sensor, this would create a short circuit which lowers the voltage and it wouldn't be 4.5VDC or higher. So, be sure to check the sensor and the wiring for that circuit.
I have a question about the removal and replacement of the egr adapter gasket. I have a 2005 Suzuki Forenza and it started leaking a little antifreeze around the bottom so I bought the gasket and replaced it several times. After replacing it several times and using the red gasket sealer, it still leaks a small drip every now and then. I have let it set 24 hours to setup before adding antifreeze and cranking it, thinking that was the problem. But even then it still leaks. I have looked and made sure that its not warped and its not. Please help! Any advice will be appreciated. Ive even went to Suzuki and looked at the their gasket and it is identical to the ones I have been purchasing from Auto Zone, Oreilly's and Advanced.
+Larry Mcdaris Don't have much to offer for you Larry, but there's got to be something going on. If you're sure that you're installing it correctly, and you really don't need any sealant and the flanges are not warped, I couldn't tell you what is wrong. Sorry...
Sure be on the intake manifold, but here is a link which may help www.yourmechanic.com/question/where-is-the-map-sensor-located-in-this-car-2006-suzuki-forenza-by-jd
Hi, I have a Chev Optra with a coolant leak down the back of the motor it drips out when the car is off. would this be a head gasket it does not over heat and runs normal. I just have to top up coolant all the time.. It is due to go into GM soon but wondering what it could be so I'm not surprised by the bill.
Well, it could be a head gasket leak, but it also could be a coolant hose leaking since there are a few of them at the back of the engine. You could take a closer look at see where the coolant is coming from.
Hi stuzman, I just bought my 07 Forenza and a month later out of warranty it misfires and has difficulty starting up that got worst ever time on startup. I replaced coil pack, plugs, and wires and that fixed the misfire but as for the Difficulty starting up it is still happening. Now i think it is the Crank or cam position sensor because those tend to go on these. but thats not a simple or cheap repair before i go pulling things apart from what i have seen. It starts up normally when the engine is still warm for a couple hours but on cold start it is struggling to start up. It is only at 107k miles. Any suggestions?
Hi Will. Is the check engine light on? If so, get the code read and I assume that you don't have a scanner. If not, you may want to invest in one to look at some data from the vehicle. It could be a multitude of things and I'm sure that you don't want to guess at what it could be. And even my suggestions, would be a guess without the data to prove it. As for your crank and cam sensors, it's possible that one of them could be getting hot and breaking down, but you should get a check engine light for that. Let me know if you're getting a check engine light and if you have a scanner. Take care Will...
Nope, unfortunately no code for it. The only code i had was when it was misfiring and that was cylinder number four. But the startup is pumping the gas pedal several times and starting it at the same time. I just don't want to burn out the motor. Not sure where to start.
Here's some things you can check. Ensure that you can pull a spark about 3/4" to eliminate ignition. Check fuel pressure to ensure it's in spec. Throttle body could need cleaning or issue with throttle body. I'm assuming there isn't any coolant loss indicating a possible head gasket issue. Fuel injector(s) could be leaking creating a rich condition when car sits for a long period. If you have a scanner, take a look at STFT and LTFT readings, especially LTFT. These readings could guide you in the direction to take if there is fuel/air mixture problem. Another thing to check is the MAP sensor. That will give you some things to check Will and good luck on finding your issue.
what are those white clips on the fuel rail called? 2mins into this video? i broke one of those clips and i need to buy a new one if you know. Also thanks for your videos it guided me through two head replacements. One on a 05 suzuki and one on a 06 Chevy aveo. Seriously about saved my sanity
+Michael Nicholls Those are fuel line retainer clips. I actually broke one too as with all plastic as it ages, it becomes brittle. Take out the retainer clip and carry it down to your local auto store; I used Advance Auto Parts, and you'll see them out in the isle. I believe they were made by Dorman. You should be able to match it up. Also, you can just squeeze the sizes of the retainer and not have to actually pull it out. I found this out later and even point it out in one of these videos. I take it that with your two head replacement jobs, everything worked out fine for you. And thanks for liking the video series.
+stuzman52 yes I watched everyone one of your videos. I actually don't even remember breaking it but when I went to start the car the line popped off. thank you for the info
do you have a video that will tell me where my maf sensor is I'm having a real hard time finding it it would be a lot of help if you would let me know where I can locate it thanks
+Brandon Stone The MAF is located in the air intake tube on the driver side of the car. Here is a link to its location. Go to the second thread and click on the image to enlarge it. You will see it listed as item #1 www.suzuki-forums.com/3g-2006-2014-vitara-grand-vitara/46385-engine-sensor-locations.html
I assume this is the video you're referring to as it starts with the removal of the intake and exhaust manifolds. th-cam.com/video/IX0CgVV37VE/w-d-xo.html All of the videos are listed in parts in a sequencing order from start to finish.
i did the timing belt all ready bad news the valves vent. about the water pump i got a especial location it got a noch were the pump arrow goes after 1000 tims i discover the location.you was rigth about water pump tanks
+misael pacheco Just remember that with this engine, if the timing belt breaks, you can count on the valves being bent. Glad to hear you got the water pump figured out.
I noticed some oil coming from around the head cover gasket on the side where the coil is and it was also coming from that tube that's on the head cover near the coil. I put another head cover gasket on but still can't drive yet cause while I was driving (before putting on the new cover gasket) the car engine light came on and about 5 minutes later the transmission was slipping (like pulling off in 3rd or 4th gear). I made it home. The next day used a different car to go to the store and get a obd2 diagnostic tool, hooked it up and got 2 P0700 codes and 1 P0563 code with a red light. By the way, the head cover leak and the transmission slipping and the engine light coming on, all happened at the same time, if that means anything. The next day I went outside and looked under the hood and jiggled the connector to the TRS a little to see if it was loose but couldn't do nothing else cause it was too cold outside so the next day went back out and started the car and the engine light was off, so I plugged in the obd2 tool and still got a P0563 code but only 1 P0700 code and a yellow light. Saw a transmission range on eBay for $12.50 and bought that without knowing if the old one was bad since it was only $12.50. Put that on without the dw260-050 tool and the engine light immediately came back on.
+dgh ebgt The two codes may or may not be related. The P0700 code is stored in the PCM which is a generic code saying there is an issue with the transmission. You'll need a more high end scanner to look into the transmission control module (TCM) to see a more specific code for the tranny. As for the tranny range sensor, P0705 usually sets if there is an issue with this. And to adjust it, just put the top bolt in the middle of the slot of the sensor as that's close enough. It's not an absolute necessity to have the special too to make this adjustment unless you want to pay about $130 for it. As for the P0563 code, this is saying that your system voltage is too high. You may want to put a DVOM across the battery while the engine is running to check your charging system. As for the leak, I assume that you're talking about the camshaft cover. If so, you'll have to figure out why it's leaking. Maybe the gasket slipped. I like to put two flat washers under each camshaft bolt as I believe the bolts are a little too long.
+dgh ebgt On that particular tube there is no seal or gasket to seal the oil. Some people have reported that this tube does leak oil. The only sealing connection is from the plastic pipe down into the metal bore. You may can try to put a thin film of silicone sealant around the plastic tube before you insert it into its bore.
stuzman it's a metal one that comes around the backside of the motor K'Nex to the one running to the radiator fan that part of the hose those rubber but the back of the motor for some reason it's metal pipe
Richard Griffith I sold this car about four years ago, so I can’t remember the line. You said it was leaking. You could take a picture of it and show it to your auto parts store to get another one.
Right now i'm in the process of removing the stuff on & around the cylinder head of my daughter's '08 Forenza head gasket replacement. So far on your video everything are very informative and make sense & good explanations even the connectors. Thanks for posting.
Glad to hear that the videos are helpful Del! Have a great evening!
Thank you Stuzman for these great videos, they helped me with the second gasket replacement! And now the 3rd.... with that fuel rail connector you can push the white connector IN and it will spread the clip for removal. I broke one of mine trying your way, easy fix from you-pull-it. Again, thanks!!!
Thanks Glen2003! I found out later on the same thing about the fuel rail connector. I mentioned it in a later video. Thanks again for the comment!
@@stuzman52 hey, quick question for you. Getting ready to reassemble and opened the gasket kit and noticed some damage on the head gasket and noticed some damage on the nub on the intake side of the engine between pistons 2 and 3. The white line is partially damaged. Should a return be made or is the damage insignificant enough to not matter?
Ghen2003 _ For the amount of work that’s involved, I would return it and get another one. No need to take a chance. Good luck on your repair! 😀👍
Maybe this should be renamed Part 2 and the 'Suzuki Forenza with Broken Timing Belt' be called Part 1. It was not until getting started on Head Removal Part 1 that I realized there was a former video with steps already taken. Awesome work on teaching and the video was very clear. Thank you!
I really appreciated the time you spent making the timing belt and water pump series. Watching this series now in preparation for more issues with that car. One thing, though, I made the mistake of pulling the coolant drain plug all the way out of the radiator right after I got it loose and spilled about half of my coolant. So, for anyone following me in this game, let the coolant flow around the drain plug for a good while so you can catch it.
+Darryl Machtmes Glad to help out Darryl...
Needing this online says a new head is about $800.00 bucks so hopefully I can make that purchase to get back on the road soon. Thanks again for these good quality helpful videos
Another option if you're doing the work is to get a quote from a machine shop to see what they will charge. If memory serves me correctly, it was $350 for the machine work. Of course, that didn't include the pricing of the valves, guides, seals, etc.
@@stuzman52 right so if I were to do it myself the next cylinder would come with all that you mentioned correct?
@@NP.TRU.09 Yes, the new or rebuilt head should come with all the components, but make sure before you purchase. Who knows, there may be some out there that doesn't include valves, etc.
Your videos are what’s kept my car going. I appreciate these and you!!!
G46uh7r0n Thank you very much and hope all of repairs are successful! 😀👍
Thank you very much Giz...I hope the videos can help you out if you ever need them. Oh yes, the dog is a sweetie pie, American Eskimo and her name is Josie. Greeting to you and all the fellow people in Finland from the U.S. Oh, I've started a new series on ABS sensors and diagnosis for another car if you're interested. Lots of detail in those also. More coming...
Video was super helpful for my forenza. Especially getting to my map sensor. Thanks great video series too.
Thank you very much!
I appreciate your attention to detail, well done
+Eric Corse Thanks Eric, I appreciate it!
Hi wtfhellas! Thanks for the great compliment! Actually, I mentioned this, but it's in the previous video of the cylinder leak down test at timeline 1:10. For that cover, it's two socket head bolts where a 5mm hex bit will remove them. I'm not sure if you have watched all of the videos, but I believe it will cover every detail if you have to go as far as removing the head. So, if you don't mind me asking, what type of job are you getting ready to do? Thanks for watching!
Thanks Roman for the comment. Actually, the work of pulling the stuff off was pretty easy. I think my wife, the camera lady had the tougher job. Thanks again!
Thank you Darren for the compliment on the videos! The part 1, 2, etc. is embedded in the videos, but here's what I did. If you are another viewer starts looking at the 1st part of head removal, I have a description at timeline 6 sec explaining that you should review the timing belt broken video because of a few parts to remove beforehand. I also say that you can click here to go back to that video for reviewing. So, that should take care of you and anyone else. Thanks for that Darren!
Thank you are brilliant it was the heater hose causing my issue, small part potential huge risk.. Thanks again!!!
Glad to hear Dohnwyn that you found an inexpensive repair and now you don't have to worry about a head gasket repair. Take care and thanks for commenting....
yes its running very well tanks.
I gave some more thought to your question as it's not very clear. If you're asking, "I'm going to replace the head gasket. Do I need to replace/change the spark plugs?". If that's what you're asking, then no, you don't need to remove the plugs to replace the head gasket. But if you're going to replace the head gasket, you'll probably want to put new plugs in when you're done.
Ah, that's a pretty easy job. If you want to see the procedure of what I did with the plugs and wires, check out the Head Installation Part 9 at timeline 30:19 It will have the torque spec and gap setting there. Good luck on your repair.
at minute 8:45 you are removing the temp. sensor wire plug, to the left of that and below the ERG is another sensor, what is that sensor? Thanks
If you're talking about the sensor beneath the EGR valve, I mentioned that it was the engine coolant temperature sensor at 8:41. If it's not that one, I'm not sure what sensor you're referring to. Have a great day!
Thank you for making this video and explaining everything so well, even as good as you did let it be known suzuki should have just stayed in the motorcycle and atv business, but thank you
Matthew Ray I think you’re right Matthew that Suzuki should’ve stayed with the motorcycles. And thanks for dropping in sharing a comment! 👍
tanks . it come back to life. tanks for all
+misael pacheco Glad to hear misael that you got it running!
the camshaft cover is also leaking from that tube that's near the coil. is there a seal or ring or something for that
+dgh ebgt If I remember there is a line in front of the coil which is for the EGR solenoid and it passes coolant through this tube into the head. If that is the one you're talking about, yes, there is a gasket for that tube that bolts up to the block.
Great videos, watched all on the forenza. I am having to replace the head gasket on my 05 forenza. The motors look the same. Are there any differences?
I believe they are the same 2.0L engine. Good luck with your repair!
Thank you
Your videos are great and very helpful. I didnt watch whole thing thou. I put the suzuki back together and didnt bleed the lifters i was wondering if thats why its has a little tick to it now.
rick varada Glad you liked the videos Rick. The reason for bleeding the lifters was to ensure that the valves wouldn't be held slightly open where the piston could come up and bend the valves again. It's more of a safety issue to prevent this. With the lifters bled, this would ensure that the valves will remain close when they're supposed to and prevent any damage to them. Then after about 10 minutes of running, the ticking should disappear. So, it's unlikely that not bleeding them caused your issue. Probably just a faulty lifter that's not pumping up as it should. I don't know how long it's been running, but it should only take a few minutes for it to disappear. Otherwise, you probably have a bad lifter...
Hi jacubv3. Surely you're not serious are you? To change the spark plugs, you do NOT remove the head gasket. To see the spark plugs changed on this engine, go to my last video, "Head Installation Part 9 (We're Done!) and you'll see the spark plugs changed. And the head is installed on the engine. Maybe you're talking about the spark plug cover which sits on top of the camshaft cover which covers the spark plugs If that's what you mean, then yes, that cover has to be removed. Thanks for watching!
Hey, absolutely loving these series of videos on the Suzuki Forenza 06! It's been a pain in the ass trying to find information on them. So my question to you is (and hopefully you are able to answer it) where is the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve? If you could please point to a particular time on one of your videos on this series so that I can get a good idea of the location as I am having a heck of a time finding it.
***** Hi James. On the 06 and later years, there isn't a IAC to be found. These years uses a DC motor which is controlled by the PCM. The IAC system was used on the previous years where there is a cable from the accelerator pedal to the throttle valve. On the later years that I mentioned earlier, there is no cable. These systems are usually referred to as drive-by-wire. In both cases of the IAC or DC motor, it's located on the throttle body. If you're not sure what that is, look at the hosing that goes from the air filter box and follow it towards the back of the engine. You'll see that this hosing, (3" to 4" in diameter) connects to a rectangular box which is called a resonator. From there, this resonator connects to the throttle body with a hose clamp. You'll have to remove the resonator and air hosing to see the throttle body more clearly. And on there, you'll see the IAC or DC motor depending on what year you're looking at. Hope that helps! And thanks for the comments on the videos!
Okay! This makes so much more sense now as to why everyone was talking about it but me not finding it! 2 other buddies and myself were standing over the open hood with the resonator off the throttle body looking for this thing. All we had were pictures of what the motor should look like but not where it went. We all knew that it SHOULD be attached to the throttle body but the picture is different from what is the 06. haha. So the DC motor must be what is on the right side of the thr. body then. I was looking for it b/c everywhere was saying to clean not only the throttle body but to remove the IAC and clean it too. Thank you for clearing this up for me. AllDataDIY.com was somewhat misleading to me then for my vehicle.
My next mission is to replace my timing belt and with your videos I can't fail!
***** So James, it sounds like you have a 06 then. If so, you'll find that all of these videos are for that year. If you take a look in the head removal videos, I show how to remove the throttle body and I also talk about how to clean the unit. I believe it's in the intake and exhaust removal videos. Or it could be in the installation of the intake and exhaust videos. Mmmm, it's been awhile back. Just take your time on the timing belt change and you'll be fine. Take care and good luck on your repairs.
Hello... can you show me a video about: Camshaft (CMP) Sensor and Crankshaft (CKP) Sensor of Suzuki Forenza? THank you.
Black Angel I’m very sorry but I sold the Forenza years ago.
hi sorry ,i have a questions is the same engine de forenza en reno 2006
Although, I'm not 100% certain, I believe it's the same engine which on the Forenza is a 2.0 liter.
thank you very much brother
No problem, any time....
I have an 04 Suzuki Forenza. It keeps running hot because it’s losing water. I don’t think it has a water pump leak because I don’t see a leak anywhere. I believe my thermostat is good as well. There is some red looking gunk in my water reservoir, I’m thinking it’s bars leak. So is this a good indication that I have a blown head gasket? There’s also oil on my spark plugs as well.
James Roberts These cars are known for head gasket failures. It’s most likely the cause.
How did you get the belt off the alternator
If I remember correctly, there should be a tensioner on there.
@@stuzman52 there is I can't get anything in there to get to it
I can't remember the details as the job was done years ago. If it's that tight, you may need a tensioner puller which is basically a thin bar where you can put different size sockets on it. Maybe that will help!
hello... can u help me find the ect or switch. i have chevy optra 2006. i believe forenza also has the same engine.
Doing a quick search, Google says that it's located under the thermostat housing in the intake manifold.
Hey thanks for the video, I couldn't have done it without your help. I do have a problem if you could help. I am having a problem that I didn't have before replacement. I now have excessive blow by in my throttle body which is causing problems with my air temp sensor and making my car putter. I was told it could be the PCV valve but I was told its located in the valve cover. So I was wondering, where the valve cover has a long piece that slid's into the head and seats into a hole between the camshafts, is there a grommet that goes there or does the valve cover tighten up the valve cover gasket tight to seal it? and if it isn't tight enough will that cause the issue? Thanks for any help.
From my memory, there is only the camshaft cover gasket and not any other gaskets or grommets. And I'm pretty sure that this car doesn't have a PCV valve as the ventilation is handled inside the camshaft cover through a passageway that's molded in it. How did you come to the conclusion that you're having excessive blowby and this is creating an issue with the intake air temp sensor?
I’m having a gas leak and was wondering if you could give me some tips on how to find the problem and fix it
Your nose should be a good indicator of where the leak is along with a puddle somewhere. Look around the engine bay, under the car and you should be able to find it.
thank you
Thanks for the speedy reply. Well after driving it for a couple of hours, I would come to a stop and it was puttering on exceleration and running rough but not running hot and the check engine light came on so I took it to advanced auto and the code PO113 came up which is the air temp sensor so i took off the air cleaner to remove the air temp sensor and there is excessive amount of oil in throttle body and air cleaner. Its so puddled up that it looks like almost strait oil and my air filter is black where the filter housing connects to the air cleaner. Thanks
Brian, once you clean all of the oil off the air temp sensor, how does the car run? Does it have good acceleration? And are you sure that you've got the timing marks aligned? Remember, you mentioned that the car ran fine before the job. I can't think of a reason why the car would have an excessive amount of oil blowing by unless the timing was off or that you've got worn piston rings allowing increased blow-by (probably not rings since it ran okay before). Since the car ran fine before, it's got to be something that's different now. Oh, by the way, the P0113 is saying that the PCM is seeing a voltage of 4.5VDC or higher. This means that the temp sensor is open or there is an open wire in that circuit. When you have oil around a sensor, this would create a short circuit which lowers the voltage and it wouldn't be 4.5VDC or higher. So, be sure to check the sensor and the wiring for that circuit.
I have a question about the removal and replacement of the egr adapter gasket. I have a 2005 Suzuki Forenza and it started leaking a little antifreeze around the bottom so I bought the gasket and replaced it several times. After replacing it several times and using the red gasket sealer, it still leaks a small drip every now and then. I have let it set 24 hours to setup before adding antifreeze and cranking it, thinking that was the problem. But even then it still leaks. I have looked and made sure that its not warped and its not. Please help! Any advice will be appreciated. Ive even went to Suzuki and looked at the their gasket and it is identical to the ones I have been purchasing from Auto Zone, Oreilly's and Advanced.
+Larry Mcdaris Don't have much to offer for you Larry, but there's got to be something going on. If you're sure that you're installing it correctly, and you really don't need any sealant and the flanges are not warped, I couldn't tell you what is wrong. Sorry...
We're are the map sensor???
Sure be on the intake manifold, but here is a link which may help www.yourmechanic.com/question/where-is-the-map-sensor-located-in-this-car-2006-suzuki-forenza-by-jd
Where could I purchase a new set of Valve cover bolts?
+Alejandro Almodovar Don't know offhand. Try a Google search and see what you find.
Hi, I have a Chev Optra with a coolant leak down the back of the motor it drips out when the car is off. would this be a head gasket it does not over heat and runs normal. I just have to top up coolant all the time.. It is due to go into GM soon but wondering what it could be so I'm not surprised by the bill.
Well, it could be a head gasket leak, but it also could be a coolant hose leaking since there are a few of them at the back of the engine. You could take a closer look at see where the coolant is coming from.
What kind of spark plug takes a 2008 Suzuki Forenza
Not sure BIGT. Just call your local auto store and they will have the answer for you.
Ok thanks
8:45 coolant temperature sensor
Hi stuzman, I just bought my 07 Forenza and a month later out of warranty it misfires and has difficulty starting up that got worst ever time on startup. I replaced coil pack, plugs, and wires and that fixed the misfire but as for the Difficulty starting up it is still happening. Now i think it is the Crank or cam position sensor because those tend to go on these. but thats not a simple or cheap repair before i go pulling things apart from what i have seen. It starts up normally when the engine is still warm for a couple hours but on cold start it is struggling to start up. It is only at 107k miles. Any suggestions?
Hi Will. Is the check engine light on? If so, get the code read and I assume that you don't have a scanner. If not, you may want to invest in one to look at some data from the vehicle. It could be a multitude of things and I'm sure that you don't want to guess at what it could be. And even my suggestions, would be a guess without the data to prove it. As for your crank and cam sensors, it's possible that one of them could be getting hot and breaking down, but you should get a check engine light for that. Let me know if you're getting a check engine light and if you have a scanner. Take care Will...
Nope, unfortunately no code for it. The only code i had was when it was misfiring and that was cylinder number four. But the startup is pumping the gas pedal several times and starting it at the same time. I just don't want to burn out the motor. Not sure where to start.
Here's some things you can check. Ensure that you can pull a spark about 3/4" to eliminate ignition. Check fuel pressure to ensure it's in spec. Throttle body could need cleaning or issue with throttle body. I'm assuming there isn't any coolant loss indicating a possible head gasket issue. Fuel injector(s) could be leaking creating a rich condition when car sits for a long period. If you have a scanner, take a look at STFT and LTFT readings, especially LTFT. These readings could guide you in the direction to take if there is fuel/air mixture problem. Another thing to check is the MAP sensor. That will give you some things to check Will and good luck on finding your issue.
Thank you for the suggestions. Will give me something to do. Appreciate the help stuzman! Thanks.
Whats the length on the Valve cover bolts?
+Alejandro Almodovar I can't remember and I don't have the car anymore...you could pull one out of yours and measure it.
what are those white clips on the fuel rail called? 2mins into this video? i broke one of those clips and i need to buy a new one if you know. Also thanks for your videos it guided me through two head replacements. One on a 05 suzuki and one on a 06 Chevy aveo. Seriously about saved my sanity
+Michael Nicholls Those are fuel line retainer clips. I actually broke one too as with all plastic as it ages, it becomes brittle. Take out the retainer clip and carry it down to your local auto store; I used Advance Auto Parts, and you'll see them out in the isle. I believe they were made by Dorman. You should be able to match it up. Also, you can just squeeze the sizes of the retainer and not have to actually pull it out. I found this out later and even point it out in one of these videos. I take it that with your two head replacement jobs, everything worked out fine for you. And thanks for liking the video series.
+stuzman52 yes I watched everyone one of your videos. I actually don't even remember breaking it but when I went to start the car the line popped off. thank you for the info
@Tony. I don't mind the thumbs down if they would let me know why and I never do. Yes, the trolls are everywhere.
do you have a video that will tell me where my maf sensor is I'm having a real hard time finding it it would be a lot of help if you would let me know where I can locate it thanks
+Brandon Stone The MAF is located in the air intake tube on the driver side of the car. Here is a link to its location. Go to the second thread and click on the image to enlarge it. You will see it listed as item #1 www.suzuki-forums.com/3g-2006-2014-vitara-grand-vitara/46385-engine-sensor-locations.html
Got a 2004 Aveo sitting my driveway with broken plastic parts that falling out it. Looks like your videos going help me fix it....
Hey T Foxx. Good luck on your repair and the videos should help you out. Take care...
awsome totorial but can you send me part one of head removal
I assume this is the video you're referring to as it starts with the removal of the intake and exhaust manifolds. th-cam.com/video/IX0CgVV37VE/w-d-xo.html All of the videos are listed in parts in a sequencing order from start to finish.
My husband is desperately searching for your part 1 and 2 Suzuki Firenze head removal... please help:)
He should be good to go now! I just sent the links to a previous post that was made. :) Good luck on your repair!
i did the timing belt all ready bad news the valves vent. about the water pump i got a especial location it got a noch were the pump arrow goes after 1000 tims i discover the location.you was rigth about water pump tanks
+misael pacheco Just remember that with this engine, if the timing belt breaks, you can count on the valves being bent. Glad to hear you got the water pump figured out.
tool dw260-050
+dgh ebgt And your question is?
I noticed some oil coming from around the head cover gasket on the side where the coil is and it was also coming from that tube that's on the head cover near the coil. I put another head cover gasket on but still can't drive yet cause while I was driving (before putting on the new cover gasket) the car engine light came on and about 5 minutes later the transmission was slipping (like pulling off in 3rd or 4th gear). I made it home. The next day used a different car to go to the store and get a obd2 diagnostic tool, hooked it up and got 2 P0700 codes and 1 P0563 code with a red light. By the way, the head cover leak and the transmission slipping and the engine light coming on, all happened at the same time, if that means anything. The next day I went outside and looked under the hood and jiggled the connector to the TRS a little to see if it was loose but couldn't do nothing else cause it was too cold outside so the next day went back out and started the car and the engine light was off, so I plugged in the obd2 tool and still got a P0563 code but only 1 P0700 code and a yellow light. Saw a transmission range on eBay for $12.50 and bought that without knowing if the old one was bad since it was only $12.50. Put that on without the dw260-050 tool and the engine light immediately came back on.
What causing the head cover to leak from that tube near the coil and what does codes P0700 and P0563 have to do with each other
+dgh ebgt The two codes may or may not be related. The P0700 code is stored in the PCM which is a generic code saying there is an issue with the transmission. You'll need a more high end scanner to look into the transmission control module (TCM) to see a more specific code for the tranny. As for the tranny range sensor, P0705 usually sets if there is an issue with this. And to adjust it, just put the top bolt in the middle of the slot of the sensor as that's close enough. It's not an absolute necessity to have the special too to make this adjustment unless you want to pay about $130 for it. As for the P0563 code, this is saying that your system voltage is too high. You may want to put a DVOM across the battery while the engine is running to check your charging system. As for the leak, I assume that you're talking about the camshaft cover. If so, you'll have to figure out why it's leaking. Maybe the gasket slipped. I like to put two flat washers under each camshaft bolt as I believe the bolts are a little too long.
Good. .but few ilustrated. ..
this link shows the leaky tube i'm talking aboutwww.suzuki-forums.com/general-forenza-reno-forum/53930-oil-leak-after-valve-cover-gasket.html
+dgh ebgt On that particular tube there is no seal or gasket to seal the oil. Some people have reported that this tube does leak oil. The only sealing connection is from the plastic pipe down into the metal bore. You may can try to put a thin film of silicone sealant around the plastic tube before you insert it into its bore.
تدقارح من الهوايه
What's that metal pipe under the engine coolant temperature
I have a leak in that middle pipe running length of the pipe
Richard Griffith not sure which pipe Richard. Is it leaking coolant?
stuzman it's a metal one that comes around the backside of the motor K'Nex to the one running to the radiator fan that part of the hose those rubber but the back of the motor for some reason it's metal pipe
Richard Griffith I sold this car about four years ago, so I can’t remember the line. You said it was leaking. You could take a picture of it and show it to your auto parts store to get another one.