This video is like 9 years old but I want to say Thank you Eric. my integra broke down on me this morning and after determining it was the distributor I bought a new rotor and ignitor module since they both looked burnt up a bit. threw it back together and the car fired up great! Not sure if you still check these comments but I just wanted to say thank you for making this video it helped me out a lot.
This brings back memories... This was the only problem I had with my civic (89) in those days, I couldn't get anyone to help me out, so I did it myself. Although I've built many 350's and GM, I was sweating doing this job myself. But I tell you what Eric, it was by far the easiest distributor I've ever changed out.. The engineering in those Hondas was awesome.. It only went together one way... In time.. It was great!! Thanks for the video too, good job!!
CR-V 376,000 miles. Thanks so much Eric. Except in my case, it didn't start the first few turns of the key. I had to crank it a few times, long long, until it finally ignited and started. Runs very smooth now, without the sputtering on low gears going uphill. BTW mine is 376,000 miles, since 1999, the first time changing the distributor.
Hi I have been watching for a couple months now. I was watching this video and around 5: min. I was saying "OH for Petes sake just buy a new distributor already. Why are you making a square peg fit in a round hole so to speak.After that I thoroughly enjoyed watching you swap out parts and make it all work. I then thought......Hmmmm thats what its all about. Great job. This is the video that made me subscibe to your channel. Keep it up.
@TheFahQue The car is on it's way to my son who will take it on a journey to a slow death so I'm not worried about a future buyer. I've also been driving it around for the past couple of months without indecent and no leaks at the distributor, in my opinion a used factory part that sort of fits is much better than an aftermarket one that will cause a failure at some point, I'm really not a fan of aftermarket distributors for Honda's. Thanks for your great comment, it is very much appreciated.
@EricTheCarGuy I retract my previous statements. All these diagnostic checks you've done on here inspired me to go tear out the passenger seat, and check the wiring. Turns out one of the wires is grounding out somewhere between the distributor and computer. I'm going to go see if I can figure out where, or just run a new wire. I've had this car since last September, and I've always just put up with it, but you got me wanting to fix it! Thank you! =)
ERIC, YOU ROCK BROTHER!! I ALSO ROLL IN A "VINTAGE" '91 TEGGY! LS 5SPD CREEPING UP ON 300K BUDDY!!! YOUR VIDS ARE INCREDIBLY HELPFULL AND RESOURCEFUL THAT SAVE TIME AND MONEY. ALTHOUGH THE QUALITY IS A BIT POOR, THE CONTENT IS PRICELESS!!! THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU !!! KEEP THAT HONDA LOVE COMMING!!!!!!!!!
its funny, how a lot of people here have damage their distributor after watching this video. i was going to to replace mine but now im actually afraid to do so. thanks to these guys reviewing their own mistake
@am2r If it's not the external heat shields then I would suspect the intermediate pipe after the cat, it's a double walled pipe that often breaks the welds internally. I usually hit the outside of the pipe with the ball end of a hammer to lock the inner pipe to keep it from rattling around.
@Tquick9 I'm not doubting your experience but as a professional technician you must realize that anything that can jeopardize a repair can cause a comeback so you do what you can to eliminate those by replacing parts rather than servicing them most times, both repairs work, one takes more time and effort and the other more money but the end result is the same.
@iVTECboosted They are wrong as that is not a distributor problem I've run into in over 14 years of working on Hondas. Your problem sounds timing related, make sure your engine is in time mechanically, i.e. the timing marks on the cam and crank, and make sure the ignition is properly timed after you check the mechanical, then recheck for a performance problem.
Finally made good use of this video, same process on my 94 prelude si. I had the same issue except the inside of my distributor ( Its either stock or OEM replaced) was covered in a white dust.
@toddsr84 Are you missing spark or fuel when it doesn't start? If it's both you might check the ignition switch by wiggling it while the engine is running, if it stalls replace the electrical part of the ignition switch.
@Tquick9 It's not the seal that is the problem it's the bushing, when the hard parts wear out like the shaft and bushing like in this video it's really not worth messing with in my opinion because you will need more than just the seal in most cases. However I DO NOT like aftermarket distributors, I'd rather put a junk Civic dizzy on my Acura than put on some aftermarket crap. Thanks for the comment.
@dinks102 That sounds like work. To be honest I'm giving this car to my son soon so it can be his problem. It's been a little over a week and no leaks so I'm not worried. Thanks for the comment.
Usually its the ignition coil, its a common problem that Hondas have. Open up the distributor cap and remove the rotor. Check for black or browning on ignition coil. Replace the ignition coil with an OEM replacment part and that should help. Sometimes its because of corrosion on the conducting parts wich can be cleaned...kinda like a good battery that wont work because the terminals are corroded.
@yeksun I'm not only cheep but I'm really not a fan of aftermarket distributors for Hondas as I haven't found a good one yet, I'd rather put a used Honda distributor that sorta fits than put in some of the aftermarket junk that I've seen out there. Thanks for the comment.
@raviraay You don't have to remove the distributor but it does make it easier to replace those parts. As I said in this video if I were going to put the distributor back in the car I would score a mark on the top boss where the distributor meets the cylinder head as a reference so that I could reinstall the distributor in time, do this and retiming the engine should not be necessary. If you do remove the distributor it's not a bad idea to replace the "o" ring at the base while your at it.
Thanks for the response Eric !. Sure I will buy a test light and do the diagnosis myself.. Also once I find the problem.. If I have to replace coil or ignitor, I have to remove the distributor right.. Once replacing the faulty components.. Do I need to set the ignition timing? Is this mandatory? or once I put the distributor back.. will that be ok?
@authmaax You might be surprised to learn of what my brother does with his life, appreciate you backing me up, sibling rivalry makes for good video. The noise you have might be the H2O pump or the tensioner, only way to find out is to disassemble # 5 (that's an 80's movie joke BTW). Weird problem about the RPM's, first verify the problem, hook up a separate tach and see how far off it really is. The only causes I can think of are excess resistance between the igniter and the gauge.
@Kenia12100 I don't recommend replacing Honda distributors with aftermarket units as I've seen a lot of problems there. Check your ignition parts, make sure your using NGK or Nippon Denso plugs, if you have aftermarket wires make sure they are NGK, OE is better. If your cap terminals are fouled out you should replace it with a quality unit. Most VTEC problems are caused by low or incorrect oil. Lastly make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks as they will effect performance.
great video i was having trouble getting my distributor back on and after watching your video realized the had the notch lined up incorrectly. after watching got it in like a hot knife thought butter :) thanks
@EGR95 The noise you hear is probably the fuel pump and may be normal. As for the distributor the code you refer to is for a crank sensor I think and that is housed inside of the distributor, you might want to make sure the engine is in time mechanically before you go to replace it however, I recommend replacing it with an OE unit if you do.
@EricTheCarGuy And one of the reasons I love you is because of your diagnostics. I really only pulled up the distributor on AZ to look and see if it came with the igniter and coil, because I was wondering if this procedure outlined in the video would be something you need to do when you bought one, or if it came as an assembly. Just trying to soak up as many specifics as I can. Thanks for being you, man. - Adam
@nivashraaja Not at all, the distributor gear is offset and should only go on one way, once it is installed correctly it should start up fine without being at TDC #1.
A longer bolt and some washers for that front lower mount on the distributer will work well. I've seen people do it to get their distributer to work when doing head swaps.
@latana151 I might check for an exhaust restriction, try removing the O2 sensor and taking it for a drive, if the problem goes away or gets better you might have a restricted exhaust.
@Bushougoma To be honest stock igniters don't come with the paste that you speak of and for years I've installed them dry without incident. I've also never seen one that had anything on it stock. I'm not saying your method is not a good practice but I personally haven't done it that way and haven't had any problems as a result.
@ZaneAngelo There is a video posted to this one covering how to set the ignition timing after such a repair. Check it out and get back to me if you are still having trouble.
My good ol TD43U is well over the hill. I went to replace the ICM and one of the flag terminals plugging into it just disintegrated. So, I had to improvise and now Ive got a paperclip as part of my trusty 'ol distributor. It's more office supplies than machine these days...
@666mada666 I usually score a mark with a pocket screwdriver or something on the upper boss of the head to mark the location of the distributor before I take it off, I think I mentioned that in the video. If you have an internal oil leak in the distributor however you will need to replace the assembly.
@Envyus907 First, NEVER replace a Honda distributor unless it's leaking oil internally or filled with orange dust like this one, the aftermarket distributors that are out there are not as good as the original. Next, watch the video that I did on Diagnosing a No Spark as that will show you how to determine if the problem is in the primary or secondary side of the ignition system.
@CheezerX I've never seen that plastic shield cause a problem if it was installed correctly, it actually shields the other components inside the distributor, I've seen lots of cars without them that didn't have any problems but to be honest it really bugs me not to see it there. I think you should keep looking for the source of your problem however as I said I've never seen that shield cause a problem.
Hey Eric, you said if there is oil getting into your distributor, then it needs to be replaced. Well, I think there is quad ring (dist. seal) that sits inside the housing that needs changing. I am gonna change mine tomorrow as well as the oring that you have changed. I'll let you know if the leak stops. Thanks a lot for this video.
@DFresh892001 That would indicate a problem inside the distributor, if it's aftermarket replace it with an OE unit and retime the engine and see if the condition still exists. Probably not a bad idea to also check the mechanical timing of the engine.
@riohondofeen If the noise is coming from the distributor then it should be replaced, I recommend an OE unit as I've seen many issues with aftermarket units.
You should do a lot more on hondas and integra stuff. so i can learn more things from yah bud. And yes your Vids really do help and i fixed my idling and other stuff from your vids. So im glad i came across your vids and work. keep doing what you do and forget the haters. oh and another thing i tried to go in your site and it wont let me... but anyways. have fun makin new vids.
@christianbaclao I think you should figure out exactly what's missing, spark or fuel during the no start, once you have done that you can further diagnose the problem and fix it. BTW Honda fuel pumps hardly ever go bad so make sure that you have power and ground at the fuel pump connector before you condemn it.
@fixinggrace That sucks but it probably has something to do with your connection speed. Video files are huge no matter how you slice it and long ones like this would be hell to watch on a slow connection.
@Civiceg10 Not the distributor. You need to start by finding out why it stalls, is it loosing spark or fuel. If it's loosing spark watch the video I did on diagnosing an ignition system to help you find the cause. I do not recommend replacing the distributor especially with an aftermarket unit.
@mizer6666 First, the use of silicone as a gasket is something I am diametrically opposed to, a gasket is a gasket, it doesn't need any help. The problem with the old distributor was that the "insides" you spoke of were damaged so swapping out that part was not an option. Third, this is MY car so I feel I can take liberties and in this case I got away with it, the car runs great and doesn't leak any oil despite only being held in with one fastener.
Spray some WD-40 or something on it. Then try a really good quality set of vice grips. Alternatively, you can get a tool called a damaged nut and bolt remover. It has grooves that bite into the metal when you hammer it on. I had the same problem with my sump plug recently. Good luck!
@LauxHawk I don't think you'll be able to use a Chevy distributor in your Dodge as they use different connectors and mechanisms for the primary circuit. You might try and find a distributor for your engine and go from there.
@JT484236 If you replace it you should at least check it after the installation. If your just doing a repair on your existing distributor you can mark it before you remove it and then put it back where it was before you took it off without having to retime the engine.
Me too! Excellent videos from an exceptional mechanic! Very accurate and filled with little nits'n'bits of useful info. Keep up the outstanding work Eric, thanks from Finland!
@hp11208 You need to make sure you get it lined up correctly so be sure to mark it's location when you remove it so that you can get it back into the correct position when you reinstall it. Good luck.
@iVTECboosted I'm not saying they are bad I just don't have a lot of experience with them. Let me know how yours works out. BTW what problems are you having with the one you have now?
@rxgenocide Thats good cause believe it or not that heat sink is VERY expensive. You can remove the old heat sink just by removing the 2 screws that hold it to the igniter.
@panoulis20 You could do it that way but auto mechanics is a science not a guess so you should always verify things and not make assumptions this means you might benefit from putting a timing light on your engine just to verify the correct timing in fact there is a video posted to this one about the procedure if that helps, sometimes auto parts stores loan out timing lights. Thanks for the comment.
@karkraz The wire insulation could be a problem if the wire corrodes and causes excess resistance I suppose but once again I don't often see that on OE Honda parts. If all 3 units were on the same car the problem is not the distributor but somewhere else, I wouldn't suspect the computer first but rather check the wiring going into it.
@lkihappy Misfires can be caused by a number of things including and ignition system problem, you may want to watch the video I just posted on Leak Down Testing as that started out as a misfire code and I go through the steps of finding out the cause of the misfire. BTW I DO NOT recommend replacing a Honda distributor for an aftermarket unit as I have seen a lot of problems with this.
@zakattack467 If I'm not mistaken that engine calls for 5W 30, the noise you describe could be something much worse, you might consider switching back and seeing if the noise is still there.
@saucy42 A bouncing tach usually means a bad igniter since it is what sends the signal to the tach. If I'm honest it's much easier to make a diagnosis after the part has failed so testing may not yield a result.
@IRONMANREDNGOLD If it's not leaking into the distributor you can just replace the "o" ring on the distributor base. I recommend getting one from Honda as they are the best for the job, don't put any sealant on it either when you install it just a little oil to lube it so that it goes in better and doesn't damage the seal.
@LILQ1212 Without knowing the kind of car you are talking about makes thins tough but it's probably not your distributor or fuel filter, I would be looking to the idle circuit or for vacuum leaks as it sounds like the mixture is off. Good luck.
@francisconator Try turning the engine over by hand with a ratchet, if you can't turn the engine over by hand then you may have a broken engine that would need to be replaced or rebuilt.
Hi Eric, I watch your videos and its really helpful. But I didn't find a video about TPS(Throttle Position Sensor). Can you please do a video on how to replace, adjust the TPS. Thankyou very much Eric. Keep those videos coming.
@redneck1994 I might try removing the AC belt to see if it's still underpowered, if it's not then the AC may have a problem. As for the distributor if it has dust in it like this one it should be replaced as that is an indication of a bad bushing, I recommend an OE over aftermarket however.
@iVTECboosted Personally I don't like altering Honda ignition systems, I see more problems with them when they are altered than when they are left alone. I don't have a lot of experience with the MSD distributors for that engine but if it were me I would stick with stock and spend my money elsewhere. Just my opinion, nothing more, I feel I would need more practical experience with that brand to give an accurate assessment.
@EricTheCarGuy. Thanks for your help. My car started. I had another question, on my Acura integra (1990) where would I check the clearance for the valve adjustment? I had to do a valve adjustment for my final at school but the engine I did it on was a honda accord engine and it was different.
@ryanbarbs13 You need to find out if the problem is in the primary or secondary side of the ignition system. I did a video on Diagnosing a No Spark on a Honda but the principal will still apply to your application.
One more comment. I swear to you that my distributor was making this same noise in 1999. Im not bullcrapping. I sprayed it with some WD-40 and it was good until 2003 when it started again. I sprayed it again. Now, I spray it as a matter of course and it's the same distributor! I removed it about 2 months ago to replace the O ring and there is a good amount of play in the shaft and it kinda turns rough, like the bearing is screwed. But, it's got almost 300,000kms on it and it still fires good!
@CheezerX It's the little things that kill you sometimes. Good luck in your search, if you don't find one let me know and I'll check my 'parts department' to see if I have one.
@EricTheCarGuy I noticed in one of your other videos you mentioned you hardly ever see these sensors go bad in OEM Honda distributors, I've had three OEM units on my car, all threw the code 8, but when I got the car I noticed the wires before the plug were cut. I'm wondering if I don't have a bad computer or wiring somewhere. I've cracked two of them open, and the wires going into the dizzy crack and expose the wire, I wonder if they aren't all just bad. I haven't tried a computer yet though.
@PermanentRecap You might want to check out the videos that I've done on Diagnosing a No Start, Checking Fuel Pressure, and Ignition System Diagnosis. That should get you started, let me know what you find.
@Dcox250 That code normally means a fault within the distributor (one that I often find on aftermarket distributors) however I haven't seen any performance problems with just letting it go in the past.
@nightmathzombieethan Sounds like an older prelude if it has a vacuum advance. You might want to go for a simpler diagnosis and due a tune up, you might also check the base timing to see if that's correct. If it's carbureted you might want to check for vacuum leaks at the base of the carburetors.
Very informative. I've got a DA3 Integra that is due for a distributor replacement. Now I know how a distributor works in theory, so even if my older Integra is substantially different, I've got enough to go on. One thing though... Having it bolted in with only one bolt.. Wouldn't it twist to one side after some time? I would have tried to make some kind of adapter. Even just a couple of little bits of sheet metal with holes drilled in them. Small L shaped brackets or something. Still, not bad.
hey Eric buddy great VIDS , when replacing a Distributor assembly is the transfer of all the sub assemblies necessary?? ignitor, Rotor , Cap, ETC. doesnt a new Distributor come with all this?? and do u have to re time the engine after replacing this part??
@Mas7erChief117 I'm surprised it didn't come with one stock. I don't know what wire you need to tap into but you would be able to find that information in the service manual I suspect.
could you just mark the position of the old dizzy and measure that distance from a common steady point (say, where the curb starts) to re-adjust the new one accordingly ? i did this because i didnt have an ignition gun at the time, but i feel i might be off one or two degrees at the most, by the way the spare dizzy you have is for a civic si d16a6 engine, while your engine is a dohc d16a9, correct me if i am wrong though, nice video, cheers
Eric i have a d16z6 civic.. the problem is that it stall on me.. Car starts no problem even if its hot outside.. Replace spark plug/fuel filter/wires/re build main relay... Haven replace distributor.. Anything i should be doing r looking out for..car runs great after it stall.. Its just the first time i use for the day.. I have notice that i get a misfire ones in while..
@luckster250 Hard to say really, start with any check engine lights and fix those first. To me it sounds like it could be out of time so check the mechanical timing of the engine (not ignition) to see if it's off, if it is fix it and see if that fixes it. Good luck.
@redneck1994 If it has orange dust in it like this one did you probably need to replace it. You might want to check for debris or misalignment of the cap and rotor just for the heck of it as that could also be the problem. Good luck.
Just don't advertise the car as "mechanic owned" when you sell it, that would be misleading when you use parts not designed to fit for a particular car. I do love and appreciate what you do. It gets me excited to work on my own truck. I hope you continue to perpetuate the collective knowledge of mankind long into the future
This video is like 9 years old but I want to say Thank you Eric. my integra broke down on me this morning and after determining it was the distributor I bought a new rotor and ignitor module since they both looked burnt up a bit. threw it back together and the car fired up great! Not sure if you still check these comments but I just wanted to say thank you for making this video it helped me out a lot.
This brings back memories... This was the only problem I had with my civic (89) in those days, I couldn't get anyone to help me out, so I did it myself. Although I've built many 350's and GM, I was sweating doing this job myself. But I tell you what Eric, it was by far the easiest distributor I've ever changed out.. The engineering in those Hondas was awesome.. It only went together one way... In time.. It was great!! Thanks for the video too, good job!!
CR-V 376,000 miles. Thanks so much Eric. Except in my case, it didn't start the first few turns of the key. I had to crank it a few times, long long, until it finally ignited and started. Runs very smooth now, without the sputtering on low gears going uphill. BTW mine is 376,000 miles, since 1999, the first time changing the distributor.
Hi I have been watching for a couple months now. I was watching this video and around 5: min. I was saying "OH for Petes sake just buy a new distributor already. Why are you making a square peg fit in a round hole so to speak.After that I thoroughly enjoyed watching you swap out parts and make it all work. I then thought......Hmmmm thats what its all about. Great job. This is the video that made me subscibe to your channel. Keep it up.
Came for a quick install.. stayed for the long drawn out hack job. Love you for that man! 👍
Wanted to personally thank you eric...
Your video was very informative and helped me through my distributor problems.
Yet again, ERIC THE CAR GUY FTW!
@TheFahQue The car is on it's way to my son who will take it on a journey to a slow death so I'm not worried about a future buyer. I've also been driving it around for the past couple of months without indecent and no leaks at the distributor, in my opinion a used factory part that sort of fits is much better than an aftermarket one that will cause a failure at some point, I'm really not a fan of aftermarket distributors for Honda's. Thanks for your great comment, it is very much appreciated.
@EricTheCarGuy I retract my previous statements. All these diagnostic checks you've done on here inspired me to go tear out the passenger seat, and check the wiring. Turns out one of the wires is grounding out somewhere between the distributor and computer. I'm going to go see if I can figure out where, or just run a new wire. I've had this car since last September, and I've always just put up with it, but you got me wanting to fix it! Thank you! =)
ERIC, YOU ROCK BROTHER!! I ALSO ROLL IN A "VINTAGE" '91 TEGGY! LS 5SPD CREEPING UP ON 300K BUDDY!!! YOUR VIDS ARE INCREDIBLY HELPFULL AND RESOURCEFUL THAT SAVE TIME AND MONEY. ALTHOUGH THE QUALITY IS A BIT POOR, THE CONTENT IS PRICELESS!!! THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU !!! KEEP THAT HONDA LOVE COMMING!!!!!!!!!
its funny, how a lot of people here have damage their distributor after watching this video. i was going to to replace mine but now im actually afraid to do so. thanks to these guys reviewing their own mistake
@am2r If it's not the external heat shields then I would suspect the intermediate pipe after the cat, it's a double walled pipe that often breaks the welds internally. I usually hit the outside of the pipe with the ball end of a hammer to lock the inner pipe to keep it from rattling around.
@Tquick9 I'm not doubting your experience but as a professional technician you must realize that anything that can jeopardize a repair can cause a comeback so you do what you can to eliminate those by replacing parts rather than servicing them most times, both repairs work, one takes more time and effort and the other more money but the end result is the same.
*car starts up beautifully*
Eric: "hehe!"
*horrid rattling ensues*
Eric: "That's the exhaust"
Me: LOL
@iVTECboosted They are wrong as that is not a distributor problem I've run into in over 14 years of working on Hondas. Your problem sounds timing related, make sure your engine is in time mechanically, i.e. the timing marks on the cam and crank, and make sure the ignition is properly timed after you check the mechanical, then recheck for a performance problem.
Finally made good use of this video, same process on my 94 prelude si. I had the same issue except the inside of my distributor ( Its either stock or OEM replaced) was covered in a white dust.
@toddsr84 Are you missing spark or fuel when it doesn't start? If it's both you might check the ignition switch by wiggling it while the engine is running, if it stalls replace the electrical part of the ignition switch.
@Tquick9 It's not the seal that is the problem it's the bushing, when the hard parts wear out like the shaft and bushing like in this video it's really not worth messing with in my opinion because you will need more than just the seal in most cases. However I DO NOT like aftermarket distributors, I'd rather put a junk Civic dizzy on my Acura than put on some aftermarket crap. Thanks for the comment.
@dinks102 That sounds like work. To be honest I'm giving this car to my son soon so it can be his problem. It's been a little over a week and no leaks so I'm not worried. Thanks for the comment.
@74bluewolf I'm glad the video was able to help you. Thanks for the comment and good luck.
That smile at the end, priceless man, priceless....
Usually its the ignition coil, its a common problem that
Hondas have. Open up the distributor cap and remove the rotor.
Check for black or browning on ignition coil. Replace the ignition coil with an OEM replacment part and that should help. Sometimes its because of corrosion on the conducting parts wich can be cleaned...kinda like a good battery that wont work because the terminals are corroded.
@yeksun I'm not only cheep but I'm really not a fan of aftermarket distributors for Hondas as I haven't found a good one yet, I'd rather put a used Honda distributor that sorta fits than put in some of the aftermarket junk that I've seen out there. Thanks for the comment.
@raviraay You don't have to remove the distributor but it does make it easier to replace those parts. As I said in this video if I were going to put the distributor back in the car I would score a mark on the top boss where the distributor meets the cylinder head as a reference so that I could reinstall the distributor in time, do this and retiming the engine should not be necessary. If you do remove the distributor it's not a bad idea to replace the "o" ring at the base while your at it.
Thanks for the response Eric !. Sure I will buy a test light and do the diagnosis myself.. Also once I find the problem.. If I have to replace coil or ignitor, I have to remove the distributor right.. Once replacing the faulty components.. Do I need to set the ignition timing? Is this mandatory? or once I put the distributor back.. will that be ok?
@authmaax You might be surprised to learn of what my brother does with his life, appreciate you backing me up, sibling rivalry makes for good video. The noise you have might be the H2O pump or the tensioner, only way to find out is to disassemble # 5 (that's an 80's movie joke BTW). Weird problem about the RPM's, first verify the problem, hook up a separate tach and see how far off it really is. The only causes I can think of are excess resistance between the igniter and the gauge.
@EGR95 If you have an aftermarket distributor on there replace it with an OE unit, the aftermarket ones throw code 8's and 9's all the time.
@Kenia12100 I don't recommend replacing Honda distributors with aftermarket units as I've seen a lot of problems there. Check your ignition parts, make sure your using NGK or Nippon Denso plugs, if you have aftermarket wires make sure they are NGK, OE is better. If your cap terminals are fouled out you should replace it with a quality unit. Most VTEC problems are caused by low or incorrect oil. Lastly make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks as they will effect performance.
great video i was having trouble getting my distributor back on and after watching your video realized the had the notch lined up incorrectly. after watching got it in like a hot knife thought butter :) thanks
@EGR95 The noise you hear is probably the fuel pump and may be normal. As for the distributor the code you refer to is for a crank sensor I think and that is housed inside of the distributor, you might want to make sure the engine is in time mechanically before you go to replace it however, I recommend replacing it with an OE unit if you do.
@EricTheCarGuy And one of the reasons I love you is because of your diagnostics. I really only pulled up the distributor on AZ to look and see if it came with the igniter and coil, because I was wondering if this procedure outlined in the video would be something you need to do when you bought one, or if it came as an assembly. Just trying to soak up as many specifics as I can. Thanks for being you, man.
- Adam
@nivashraaja Not at all, the distributor gear is offset and should only go on one way, once it is installed correctly it should start up fine without being at TDC #1.
A longer bolt and some washers for that front lower mount on the distributer will work well. I've seen people do it to get their distributer to work when doing head swaps.
@latana151 I might check for an exhaust restriction, try removing the O2 sensor and taking it for a drive, if the problem goes away or gets better you might have a restricted exhaust.
I keep coming to your videos for help on my Civic and they have been invaluable. Thanks Eric!
@Bushougoma To be honest stock igniters don't come with the paste that you speak of and for years I've installed them dry without incident. I've also never seen one that had anything on it stock. I'm not saying your method is not a good practice but I personally haven't done it that way and haven't had any problems as a result.
@ZaneAngelo There is a video posted to this one covering how to set the ignition timing after such a repair. Check it out and get back to me if you are still having trouble.
My good ol TD43U is well over the hill. I went to replace the ICM and one of the flag terminals plugging into it just disintegrated. So, I had to improvise and now Ive got a paperclip as part of my trusty 'ol distributor. It's more office supplies than machine these days...
@666mada666 I usually score a mark with a pocket screwdriver or something on the upper boss of the head to mark the location of the distributor before I take it off, I think I mentioned that in the video. If you have an internal oil leak in the distributor however you will need to replace the assembly.
@Envyus907 First, NEVER replace a Honda distributor unless it's leaking oil internally or filled with orange dust like this one, the aftermarket distributors that are out there are not as good as the original. Next, watch the video that I did on Diagnosing a No Spark as that will show you how to determine if the problem is in the primary or secondary side of the ignition system.
@kennethkitchens I would say they are the wrong plugs, NGK or Nippon Denso only.
@CheezerX I've never seen that plastic shield cause a problem if it was installed correctly, it actually shields the other components inside the distributor, I've seen lots of cars without them that didn't have any problems but to be honest it really bugs me not to see it there. I think you should keep looking for the source of your problem however as I said I've never seen that shield cause a problem.
@liltex P0420 is a cat code, the other codes are most likely the result of an aftermarket distributor, I don't recommend those BTW.
Hey Eric, you said if there is oil getting into your distributor, then it needs to be replaced. Well, I think there is quad ring (dist. seal) that sits inside the housing that needs changing. I am gonna change mine tomorrow as well as the oring that you have changed. I'll let you know if the leak stops. Thanks a lot for this video.
@DFresh892001 That would indicate a problem inside the distributor, if it's aftermarket replace it with an OE unit and retime the engine and see if the condition still exists. Probably not a bad idea to also check the mechanical timing of the engine.
@riohondofeen If the noise is coming from the distributor then it should be replaced, I recommend an OE unit as I've seen many issues with aftermarket units.
You should do a lot more on hondas and integra stuff. so i can learn more things from yah bud. And yes your Vids really do help and i fixed my idling and other stuff from your vids. So im glad i came across your vids and work. keep doing what you do and forget the haters. oh and another thing i tried to go in your site and it wont let me... but anyways. have fun makin new vids.
..."In the parts depot". You are funny. Ha! I too, need a new distributor. ;) My 2001 Acura Integra will not turn over, but I do have an ignite.
@tapemasteriscool A small amount yes but you can place a rag under it when you remove it and that should be more than enough to catch it.
@christianbaclao I think you should figure out exactly what's missing, spark or fuel during the no start, once you have done that you can further diagnose the problem and fix it. BTW Honda fuel pumps hardly ever go bad so make sure that you have power and ground at the fuel pump connector before you condemn it.
@gokblok The red wires are OE actually.
@fixinggrace That sucks but it probably has something to do with your connection speed. Video files are huge no matter how you slice it and long ones like this would be hell to watch on a slow connection.
@Civiceg10 Not the distributor. You need to start by finding out why it stalls, is it loosing spark or fuel. If it's loosing spark watch the video I did on diagnosing an ignition system to help you find the cause. I do not recommend replacing the distributor especially with an aftermarket unit.
@mizer6666 First, the use of silicone as a gasket is something I am diametrically opposed to, a gasket is a gasket, it doesn't need any help. The problem with the old distributor was that the "insides" you spoke of were damaged so swapping out that part was not an option. Third, this is MY car so I feel I can take liberties and in this case I got away with it, the car runs great and doesn't leak any oil despite only being held in with one fastener.
@WarpedNut If the cat is clogged causing an exhaust restriction it could most defiantly cause a performance issue.
Spray some WD-40 or something on it. Then try a really good quality set of vice grips. Alternatively, you can get a tool called a damaged nut and bolt remover. It has grooves that bite into the metal when you hammer it on. I had the same problem with my sump plug recently. Good luck!
@LauxHawk I don't think you'll be able to use a Chevy distributor in your Dodge as they use different connectors and mechanisms for the primary circuit. You might try and find a distributor for your engine and go from there.
@JT484236 If you replace it you should at least check it after the installation. If your just doing a repair on your existing distributor you can mark it before you remove it and then put it back where it was before you took it off without having to retime the engine.
Me too! Excellent videos from an exceptional mechanic! Very accurate and filled with little nits'n'bits of useful info. Keep up the outstanding work Eric, thanks from Finland!
Thanks man! this helped I did it on my own in my car and its working great!! :)
@hp11208 You need to make sure you get it lined up correctly so be sure to mark it's location when you remove it so that you can get it back into the correct position when you reinstall it. Good luck.
@iVTECboosted I'm not saying they are bad I just don't have a lot of experience with them. Let me know how yours works out. BTW what problems are you having with the one you have now?
@rxgenocide Thats good cause believe it or not that heat sink is VERY expensive. You can remove the old heat sink just by removing the 2 screws that hold it to the igniter.
@panoulis20 You could do it that way but auto mechanics is a science not a guess so you should always verify things and not make assumptions this means you might benefit from putting a timing light on your engine just to verify the correct timing in fact there is a video posted to this one about the procedure if that helps, sometimes auto parts stores loan out timing lights. Thanks for the comment.
@CHR32191 On those you check the clearance between the cam and the follower instead of at the valve.
@karkraz The wire insulation could be a problem if the wire corrodes and causes excess resistance I suppose but once again I don't often see that on OE Honda parts. If all 3 units were on the same car the problem is not the distributor but somewhere else, I wouldn't suspect the computer first but rather check the wiring going into it.
@lkihappy Misfires can be caused by a number of things including and ignition system problem, you may want to watch the video I just posted on Leak Down Testing as that started out as a misfire code and I go through the steps of finding out the cause of the misfire. BTW I DO NOT recommend replacing a Honda distributor for an aftermarket unit as I have seen a lot of problems with this.
@Galaron28 I suspect you probably did something during the installation, go back and recheck your work.
@zakattack467 If I'm not mistaken that engine calls for 5W 30, the noise you describe could be something much worse, you might consider switching back and seeing if the noise is still there.
@Ken81590 Not really, too much work and you run the risk of damaging things. More than a year later it's working fine with no leaks.
@QuiteFriendlySwede I did get lucky having that distributor in a box, I'll take what I can get. Thanks for the comment.
@saucy42 A bouncing tach usually means a bad igniter since it is what sends the signal to the tach. If I'm honest it's much easier to make a diagnosis after the part has failed so testing may not yield a result.
@IRONMANREDNGOLD If it's not leaking into the distributor you can just replace the "o" ring on the distributor base. I recommend getting one from Honda as they are the best for the job, don't put any sealant on it either when you install it just a little oil to lube it so that it goes in better and doesn't damage the seal.
@LILQ1212 Without knowing the kind of car you are talking about makes thins tough but it's probably not your distributor or fuel filter, I would be looking to the idle circuit or for vacuum leaks as it sounds like the mixture is off. Good luck.
@francisconator Try turning the engine over by hand with a ratchet, if you can't turn the engine over by hand then you may have a broken engine that would need to be replaced or rebuilt.
Hi Eric, I watch your videos and its really helpful. But I didn't find a video about TPS(Throttle Position Sensor). Can you please do a video on how to replace, adjust the TPS. Thankyou very much Eric. Keep those videos coming.
@redneck1994 I might try removing the AC belt to see if it's still underpowered, if it's not then the AC may have a problem. As for the distributor if it has dust in it like this one it should be replaced as that is an indication of a bad bushing, I recommend an OE over aftermarket however.
Great video, especially the indepth parts with changing the ignitor and coil!
@iVTECboosted Personally I don't like altering Honda ignition systems, I see more problems with them when they are altered than when they are left alone. I don't have a lot of experience with the MSD distributors for that engine but if it were me I would stick with stock and spend my money elsewhere. Just my opinion, nothing more, I feel I would need more practical experience with that brand to give an accurate assessment.
@EricTheCarGuy. Thanks for your help. My car started. I had another question, on my Acura integra (1990) where would I check the clearance for the valve adjustment? I had to do a valve adjustment for my final at school but the engine I did it on was a honda accord engine and it was different.
@ryanbarbs13 You need to find out if the problem is in the primary or secondary side of the ignition system. I did a video on Diagnosing a No Spark on a Honda but the principal will still apply to your application.
One more comment. I swear to you that my distributor was making this same noise in 1999. Im not bullcrapping. I sprayed it with some WD-40 and it was good until 2003 when it started again. I sprayed it again. Now, I spray it as a matter of course and it's the same distributor! I removed it about 2 months ago to replace the O ring and there is a good amount of play in the shaft and it kinda turns rough, like the bearing is screwed. But, it's got almost 300,000kms on it and it still fires good!
@CheezerX It's the little things that kill you sometimes. Good luck in your search, if you don't find one let me know and I'll check my 'parts department' to see if I have one.
@EricTheCarGuy I noticed in one of your other videos you mentioned you hardly ever see these sensors go bad in OEM Honda distributors, I've had three OEM units on my car, all threw the code 8, but when I got the car I noticed the wires before the plug were cut. I'm wondering if I don't have a bad computer or wiring somewhere. I've cracked two of them open, and the wires going into the dizzy crack and expose the wire, I wonder if they aren't all just bad. I haven't tried a computer yet though.
@PermanentRecap You might want to check out the videos that I've done on Diagnosing a No Start, Checking Fuel Pressure, and Ignition System Diagnosis. That should get you started, let me know what you find.
@Dcox250 That code normally means a fault within the distributor (one that I often find on aftermarket distributors) however I haven't seen any performance problems with just letting it go in the past.
@nightmathzombieethan Sounds like an older prelude if it has a vacuum advance. You might want to go for a simpler diagnosis and due a tune up, you might also check the base timing to see if that's correct. If it's carbureted you might want to check for vacuum leaks at the base of the carburetors.
Very informative. I've got a DA3 Integra that is due for a distributor replacement. Now I know how a distributor works in theory, so even if my older Integra is substantially different, I've got enough to go on.
One thing though... Having it bolted in with only one bolt.. Wouldn't it twist to one side after some time? I would have tried to make some kind of adapter. Even just a couple of little bits of sheet metal with holes drilled in them. Small L shaped brackets or something. Still, not bad.
hey Eric buddy great VIDS , when replacing a Distributor assembly is the transfer of all the sub assemblies necessary?? ignitor, Rotor , Cap, ETC. doesnt a new Distributor come with all this?? and do u have to re time the engine after replacing this part??
@Mas7erChief117 I'm surprised it didn't come with one stock. I don't know what wire you need to tap into but you would be able to find that information in the service manual I suspect.
@TeeAreify Glad you liked it, thanks for the comment.
could you just mark the position of the old dizzy and measure that distance from a common steady point (say, where the curb starts) to re-adjust the new one accordingly ? i did this because i didnt have an ignition gun at the time, but i feel i might be off one or two degrees at the most, by the way the spare dizzy you have is for a civic si d16a6 engine, while your engine is a dohc d16a9, correct me if i am wrong though, nice video, cheers
Eric i have a d16z6 civic.. the problem is that it stall on me.. Car starts no problem even if its hot outside.. Replace spark plug/fuel filter/wires/re build main relay... Haven replace distributor.. Anything i should be doing r looking out for..car runs great after it stall.. Its just the first time i use for the day.. I have notice that i get a misfire ones in while..
@luckster250 Hard to say really, start with any check engine lights and fix those first. To me it sounds like it could be out of time so check the mechanical timing of the engine (not ignition) to see if it's off, if it is fix it and see if that fixes it. Good luck.
@redneck1994 If it has orange dust in it like this one did you probably need to replace it. You might want to check for debris or misalignment of the cap and rotor just for the heck of it as that could also be the problem. Good luck.
@CheezerX Yea, you need that little springy thingy for the ignition system to work properly.
@nunorpedro I didn't, this one worked just fine.
your face when you started the car, i know that i do that face alot. thats the "holy shit that worked" face....most satisfying face ever lol
Supp Eric,a 94 dodge stealth the cap/rotor is it easy to change.
Just don't advertise the car as "mechanic owned" when you sell it, that would be misleading when you use parts not designed to fit for a particular car. I do love and appreciate what you do. It gets me excited to work on my own truck. I hope you continue to perpetuate the collective knowledge of mankind long into the future
I LOLLED at the exploding distributor cap story, thats a new one on me haha!! Some things you never see coming.