I really enjoyed watching this. I have been a professional mechanic for over 30 years. About 10 years back I was just tired of this one part of the car needing to be sent off to never never land to be repaired. As far as I have found no one was born knowing how to rebuild transmissions. There is no special down load that enters the brain of certain people that makes them know about transmissions. I have been doing amateur builds and buying tools ever since. I am getting pretty good at taking them apart, knowing what to look for, and reassembling. My success rate has gone from sketchy to near perfect (I have rebuilt somewhere between 30 and 40 units now and have spent a small fortune on tools and manuals). Still I have yet to command a solid understanding of exactly what is happening during each phase of the shift process and this kind of information is helpful in that regard. You are an excellent instructor! I just discovered you on my latest build which is an E4OD out of a motor home. Thanks for doing this! I hope you will continue.
Awesome! It warms my heart hearing comments like this! And yes no one just has the ability to rebuild transmissions, it's a learned skill just like anything else! The one thing I have ALWAYS done in mechanics is truly put my effort into understanding HOW things work and not just looking for a particular problem (UNDERSTAND THE SYSTEM AND THE PROBLEMS JUST PRESENT THEMSELVES) that is my motto. Sounds like your getting a good grasp of transmissions it just takes a lot of repetition. I have built roughly 13,000 transmissions is the only reason I have a really good grasp on them, I Also worked at AAmco so we saw everything from Chevy's to Hondas to BMW's to Mercedes and everything in between. I was determined to learn them all ! Just keep pushing yourself and you will just get better and better. Be sure to check out my E4OD/4R100 TCC/PWM Lock-up systems video as well. Its probably one of the most informative and better ones of my videos. Happy building my friend really appreciate the comment
Thanks for the encouragement. You don’t know how much I would enjoy doing a couple of builds with a seasoned builder. I think it would help me develop a better process from start to finish. Thankfully the good Lord has blessed me with a very strong mechanical aptitude. I never have had much of a “Jonny on the spot, spot on” thing going but if I have a little time to process and study I am able to figure out most anything mechanical. It’s strange, the owner and the shop manager are behind me 100%. However a couple of my fellow techs and one or two of the service writers act as though they are “offended?” that I have been building. I suspect I am like you, always happy to share what I have learned so I don’t understand what the problem is. I usually source my own parts bc if I don’t the likely hood of getting what I actually need isn’t good. Oh well all the challenges and negativity just push me even harder most of the time. Thanks again for taking the time! It’s very helpful to guy’s like me!
@@Roscotech Yeah I hear you you can't please everyone for sure, I see that quite often your owner and manager want you to learn as much as possible "they get it" but others through jealousy, negativity or whatever reason want to hold you back only issue is there just holding themselves back as well ! You do You and that's all you can do my friend.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video, I'm having unrelated issues with an e4od but still found this to be super informative as to how the e4od and slushbox automatics actually work! Really appreciate it!
Hi Marshall, thanks for sharing all your E4OD/4R100 expertise. I have a 2003, F150 w/a 4R100. I recently had the "Service Engine Soon" light illuminate. The accompanying symptom (buzzing sound) made me think something was amiss w/the torque converter. Turns out, ATF was exactly 2 qts. low. I added the two quarts, which brought level to "Hot" full mark. ATF looked good. Last checked the level in spring of 2023, and was full at the time. Transmission has been operating fine (until recent incident). I also looked for leak(s) but couldn't see any. Someone on the F150 Forum remarked about the possibility of this transmission having a (vacuum) modulator, that if it fails/begins to fail, it will throw a "Service Engine Soon" light/code, and it could be the cause of the fluid loss. I examined the driver/passenger sides of the transmission (as best I could), and the transfer case, but couldn't see any vacuum hose connection. I noted the transfer case breather hose. Please, does the 4R100 have a (vacuum operated) modulator, and if so, where should I look on the transmission for it, and please how should I test it? Thanks from East/Central AZ.
A 4R100 does NOT have a vacuum modulator. That’s the “OLD” school way transmissions used to regulate line pressure rise. The 4R100 uses an Electronic Pressure Control solenoid to control line pressure rise. All done by the computer. As far as your fluid loss goes if it is not leaking out onto the ground it can only be going to 2 places. (1) into the radiator cooler and mixing with Antifreeze. You would easily be able to tell this because either/or the transmission fluid would be milky looking or the Antifreeze would be a milky looking. (2) most likely cause is the transfer case input seal is hardened and letting fluid leak past and over filling up the Transfer case and subsequently going low in the transmission. Pull the fill plug on the transfer case and see if it is overfull.
@@marshallsanders5672 Hi Marshall, thanks for clarifying (although through research yesterday I learned just what you stated). Today a shop confirmed that my torque converter is failing. Also, just checked my coolant, and no ATF contamination. Haven't checked the transfer case, but am going to remove transmission for rebuild (and of course, replace the damaged torque converter). No local transmission rebuilder, (wish I was in your locale to have you work your magic on it, lol) so it will go to an individual in Phoenix with whom the local auto repair shop coordinates for transmission work.
Another Excellent Video Marshall, I can wrap my head around the very basic functions a lil bit anyways thanks to these instructional break downs. Awesome Job!
I really appreciate you taking the time to go through this e4od transmission the way you did. I have a 1994 E350 moter home that has a E4od in it. Not having any problems with it but serviced it wanted to get fermilur with for the future. Thanks again enjoyed the video.
Your very welcome ! Over the years I have learned that the BEST way to fix something is first understand how it works ! Thought this video was necessary for that reason.
I love it!! The more I can understand about how the transmission works it makes it so much easier to figure out from where a problem is originating. Thank you very much for taking the time to do these videos. I wonder if Amazon Prime will let me send you a case of beer.
You ABSOLUTELY hit the nail on the head with this comment ! I meant to mention this fact in my mental aspect video ! It TRULY is ALL about UNDERSTANDING HOW Transmissions work and the rest takes care of itself. If a person UNDERSTANDS HOW an entire Subsystem works then diagnosing and fixing the problem just presents itself ! Learn how all the subsystems work together and one is “GOLDEN” so to speak ! One of the best comments yet , Thank you for that ! I’m eventually going to get T-Shirts made for my channel, Only if your successful maybe buy a T-Shirt/ A case of beer would be awesome! Thanks my friend ! Good Stuff, I hope everyone watching my channel READS this Comment !
@@marshallsanders5672 I will definitely be buying a t-shirt at least. I have a channel and I plan on recording my E4OD project but doing it while wearing a Marshall Sanders t-shirt would be cat's ass!. I'll put up the video but you will get the credit and I'll definitely link your channel. There's not much on my channel yet but I plan on retiring sometime in the near future and I'll be in my shop working on several projects which will be recorded. I have not only the E4OD from my 1990 F-250 I'm going to rebuild the 7.3 idi diesel. I also have an Alfa Romeo Spider I'm going to restore along with several motorcycles. I also like quirky cars and they don't get much more quirky than SAABs of which I've had four. I drive a 9-3 turbo but I'm looking for a mid-eighties 900 turbo. It will be a hodge -podge of videos from cynical and sarcastic old guy with ADHD. It should be interesting if nothing else. I just want to share what little I know from a lifetime of working on things with engines. I've never painted a car in my life but I'm going to attempt to teach myself so that has potential to be amusing at least. It might end up being the most fisheye, lace curtain and runs ever seen on one vehicle but I'm going to give it a shot! Keep teaching my friend because I want to learn from the best!
I Love it ! The quirkier the better ! Sounds like you got a plan did not realize you have a channel your doing well with it. It takes time to make videos for sure so you should be set once you retire ! Can’t wait to see your E4OD videos. Love this shit. I have a bad case of ADD myself I understand, but if harness is can be a true POWER so to speak ! Good Stuff keep on rolling !
Excellant video very well presented.....i just put in a 4r100 i had purchased of off a ford factory retired guy whom i felt was being honest with me .said it was in great shape.it sat outside for 4 years before i installed it ,now i can drive around town ony sounds exacty like the one your troubleshooting.any chance you might help
Hi Marshall, I really enjoyed your explanation on how the E40D changes gears and why. Fantastic video, looking forward to the rebuild of this trans. Cheers! the Panel beater New Zealand
Man. This helped ij more than one way. My 4r100 in "d" wont do anythijg. Hit the gas ans itll axr l I e it wanta to go. Identical as if it was low on fluid. Put it in manual low ans itll go. Seems like it may slip some shifting manually throughiut the gears i have a 2002 f250 7 3 crewcab 4x4
I love sll the help. Nice knowing do much. i was thinking of dropping off my transmission off with you. Might make good content. We can talk in privet abour that possiblitt
I've barely just started watching the intro. This video is going to be so invaluable for me troubleshooting my E4OD! I called a legit transmission shop recently and they wanted almost $100 just to scan the codes which I already know and be like yup, it shifts rough "and then go from there if more is needed". I canceled XD
Good stuff in this video for sure ! If you don’t see what you need in this one shout out and we’ll get you on the right track ! Like and subscribe it helps the channel out !
@@marshallsanders5672 Well sir I didn't want to bother you too much but if you don't mind I would be happy to email you the symptoms and diagnostics I've done so far on my truck! Or I can comment it here but it will be quite long!
Marshall, Excellent video, really got an education. You laid it out like a professional instructor. I'm helping a friend and hers makes a vio!ent clang and shudder after coming to a stop. Strange because it's not when accelerating again, but only after stopping, and a few seconds after stopping sometimes, very repeatable. It shifts and works fine in manual modes. Once it gets going it seems to work normally. Just when stopping. So sharp it feels like you've been rear ended. It's like it is trying to release or engage the coast clutch. But your explanation of the electrical side of operation means I should really ! get it on the a scanner. You gave me a lot to go on, much appreciated. V John C.
Just saw this post ! I can almost guarantee you the Torque converter clutch is staying applied for one reason or another. TCC sol. Sticking/ TCC apply valve sticking/leak in the TCC release circuit etc. The reason an automatic transmission can be at a full stop and not stall the engine is because the Torque Converter. When the Torque Converter Clutch stays engaged at a stop is when you get that shutter/stalling effect going on. Be sure to watch my TCC video it explains everything you need to know about what’s going on with your trans ! Hope this helps !
OMG! I have a 91 Ford F150 and first, the truck did not want to run, got her to run, and now the column shifter moves but does not go to any gear, and it's the same E4OD but with 4x4.
Thanks Great Information!! Where is your shop located? My transmission is shifting hard 1-2 and 3and overdrive are really close together around 38mph. From your videos I think it’s the solenoids.
Cool video, the transmission that came in my lightning started taking off in second and when I would put it in manual first it was binding remember those clutch’s we found in all the parts I brought with me there was some burned up welded together, I wonder if that guy is having similar thing going on, because my would start off in second gear because the intermediate clutch was welded together or something like that, anyway this was a very cool video 43 minutes went super fast S
Yep you understand what’s going on, that’s exactly what was happening with your trans originally! Good stuff ! I’m in the middle of your build video see you soon on that one !
Marshall, great information. I will need to review the different ratios and directions planetary gear sets turn when various elements are held, but well done. I'd appreciate a Part Two on the more advanced theory as I'd bet a lot of your other viewers would as well. Cheers.
Yes Sir ! I’m trying to put these videos out as quick as possible but it is not easy ! I was going to do a video part 2 that EXPLAINS if each clutch fails on or off what you would actually FEEL in the drivers seat. You may have convinced me to make it ! I can make that video all the way up until I load the guts in the case ! We’ll see
@@marshallsanders5672 That would be great! Perhaps showing how the power transfers from one planetary gear set to the other. - i.e. what elements are being held to achieve the proper ratio(s) - and how the clutch packs lock the drums either to the case or next drum. Your "Whos' In Control" video was great, but I was trying to get a mental picture of what was going on inside the drums, when the sprags locked or were overrun and the effect of the brake band in manual. A lot of moving parts for the newbie. LOL Tall order for Auto Trans 101! Really thankful you are sharing your years of experience in the field with the DIY'ers.
Yes ok I got what your asking mostly ! I’ll work that in to the video ! There are basically BRAKE Clutches/Bands and Driving Clutches which just DRIVE a part of the gear train. Good stuff ! Thanks for the request I’ll do my best ! HaHa ! I will go as deep as anyone is willing to go and so far I’m getting more requests to go deep. The next video is about TCC apply and STUPID important in automatic transmissions so let’s go from there !
@@marshallsanders5672 I reviewed your video again along with an exploded transmission view and it finally clicked how the transmission achieves the 1-3, OD, coast and engine braking. Great stuff.
the only thing that I can think, and I probable did wrong is the 4th gear drum gave me a lot of troubles to put it in, because of the small teeth line up. can you make a video about it. thanks for responding to my previous question.
Marty maybe mention my torque converter problem and how that was related to the OD light on my shifter. My trans was not shifting correctly but would sometimes go away for a while. Then it would come back. Maybe comment on how you determined it was the torque converter
Yes Sir ! You beat me to it. Ive been planning to do an entire video on Torque Converters and all the problems that happen with them because that’s a whole video in itself .
Awesome info! I have built a few 4r100’s for 99-03 super duty trucks and a second gen lightening. A close buddy wants me to rebuild his 1996 e4od, I’ll buy the atsg manual and read up on it. Any chance you can do a differences video and maybe suitable upgrades to the e4od? I have a small scrap yard of old 4r100 parts, not sure what would drop in the e4od incase something is hard to come by for his unit ie steel planetary vs the aluminum and so on.
Great ! I’m go lad you got something from the video. I do hope to do more on the very topic your asking about. I have a whole host of videos on the E4OD as the two I have built and videoed are E4OD’s be sure to check them out there is tons of info in all of my videos. From My “E4OD/4R100 Lock-Up Explained” to my “Transgo Tugger Kit Install” video I cover a lot.Sounds like you have a pretty good handle on them and also are sitting on a goldmine of parts as everything nowadays is stupid expensive ! Happy Building my friend stay tuned !
This has to be the best video I have found! I have a 97 F-350 with a E4OD, I am having a issue of it starting out in 2nd gear. Even when manually putting it in first. All other gears work like normal, how would I go about checking the low sprag since that seams to be the only one related to 1st gear and none of the others if I am understanding your chart right.
Tray, Glad you got something out of the video ! Good observation on your part. With that said if the low sprag was bad (not holding when you put it into gear O/D 1st) you would get a NEUTRAL like condition because the geartrain would just spin up instead of applying power to the output shaft. And when you put it into Manual first the LOW/REVERSE clutch comes on and (Overrides the sprag) therefore you would get first gear in manual low. If that makes sense ? There are multiple reasons for it to take off in 2nd. This is where a Scanner is a must and you need to see what the computer is SEEING as far as inputs (MLPS manual lever position sensor) ect. And what the computer is COMMANDING as far as gear selection when you put it into drive ( is it commanding first gear ? If after scanning it and you see the computer is COMMANDING 1st gear and determine it is an INTERNAL Transmission problem then shift your efforts to going inside the transmission. (Sticking valves in the valvebody, 1-2 Shift valve spring broken, worn out solenoid regulator valve bore) As you can see there is no one shot answer in your question but by the process of elimination you should be able to find the problem. I hope this answer at least STEERS you in the right direction ! Thanks for watching
Thank you for these E4od technical videos! I am learning a lot from you. Any chance you can post a video regarding no forward engagement? I bought a 91 E250 as a project. I bought with only reverse. Reverse is completely manual. At this point I'm just throwing parts at it. I have an inova code puller...but besides tps and neutral safety.....no codes. My next part is the solenoid pack connector. Which needs replaced regardless. Due to age, loose fit and broken retainer clip. I suspect it's just electric....but?
Actually on the contrary. No forward is something internal. To get forward gear in O/D range it’s just the forward clutch,low roller clutch, and O/D roller clutch holding. To see if the O/D roller clutch is blown, very common on early units put it on O/D range and hit the cancel button on the stalk. This puts it in manual 3rd and applies the Coast Clutch which over rides the O/D roller clutch. If still no forward then pull it down to manual low which in turn overrides the low “Roller Clutch “ by applying the Low/Reverse Clutches. If still no forward then it can only be something mechanically wrong with the forward clutch itself, stripped splines,burnt clutches pit broken “Belvelle Spring” etc. The only thing something wrong “Electrical” will cause is taking off in a higher gear when put into forward O/D range. The forward clutch gets fed fluid strait from the Manual valve Mechanically when you put it into gear. Hope this helps and doesn’t confuse you even more !
No confusing. I'm learning as I go but I totally respect experience and knowledge. Your input is greatly valued to me. I'll try asking this question a little more straightforward. Can a bad solenoid pack connector cause a no forward issue? Or should it drive with the solenoid pack connector disconnected and shifted to manual low?
Ok, you asked the question just fine. I just gave you the long answer is all. To keep it simple even with the solenoid pack disconnected you should have some kind of forward engagement in at least 1 of the 3 forward modes meaning shifter in O/D range,2nd range, or Manual Low range. If it still feels like Neutral No engagement at all in those three ranges then it IS an Internal transmission problem not Electrical.
Hey Marshall I have a 91 f150 2wd with the e4od in it. I am have issue with my when taking off from dead stop it shutters and is very sluggish once you get to 35mph it does fine. I was able to manually shift to first and take of better but second still sluggish if anything now but once over 35 in 3and overdrive it does ok.I am going to take out and rebuild myself but wanted to ask if doing a full overhaul sound like it would fix this issue and do I have more to worry about. Also thanks for taking time to do these videos they have given me a better understanding.
Most likely a full rebuild will take care of it. Be sure to scan it for any computer electrical before you pull it out. If it is original there will be a good bit of updates to do ! Thanks for the comment!
Hi marshall great video i just leanrt about automatics haha this is awesome. I have a e40d from a 92 f150 and have a shift problem. Feels like it clunks into gear when shifted into gear. And from 1st to 2nd gear it kicks into the next gear. Agressive kick. Not a ferm shift like it would be adding springs. Any idea what it might be? Ive done speed sensors psom and shift acumulator rebuild. Shift solonoid i havant touched yet. Thanks
Moto, Almost sure its stuck in high line pressure, Whether its the computer commanding it to be high or whether the EPC solenoid or Boost Valve in the pump is sticking causing it to always be high. Is the check engine lite on ? Sometimes when there are specific codes in the computer (even some engine related codes) the computer will put the transmission into fail-safe mode! Fail-Safe mode is the computer puts it into high line pressure to protect the transmission from burning the clutches up, Seen this many times. Just have to determine whether the computer is commanding high line pressure or whether its something internal failing causing it. i would do a line pressure check and most likely you'll see it stuck at 110-120 psi all the time or higher. it should be around 70 psi at idle and go up the more you hit the throttle.
Nice Job, Thanks very much for the unvaluable teaching. I just want to add, that your "first red flag" on the diagnosis could be wrong. It´s not the same solenoid setup for the 2nd gear in OD, and for the 2nd manual. It´s clear the scanner shows 2nd manual, so both solenoids "A" and "B" should be Off, only Coast Clutch solenoid should be ON. So different from 2nd. in OD, when both solenoids OFF means a 4th gear, so take a look if you´re checking solenoids setup, on OD or Manual. thanks
Thanks for the comment not everyone follows this stuff as closely as you ! Much appreciated! As far as the “red flag” goes O/D 2nd AND Manual 2nd both shift solenoids are “SUPPOSED“ to be powered on but on his scanner in Man. 2nd they are both off which would give 4th. Gear. Because the computer shows them off when they should be on is the “Red Flag” Thanks for watching!
Hi Marshall, Excellent work! I have a class a with only 57K on it. Trans goes forward in all gears, even wants to in park. No reverse. What are you thoughts. Full of fluid, no leaks, fluid looks perfect.
Sounds like the Forward clutches are welded/ burnt on ! If they can’t spin free in reverse it won’t move ! If it’s trying to move in park the forwards are definitely welded on ! Unfortunately it needs to come out and be rebuilt
I hate to ask here, but what’s the most likely cause for a trans that primarily feels like it’s taking off in second? If I pedal it right it’ll use first. Am I likely to have a pressure leak on solenoid B? It’s been like this since the rebuild and I don’t believe that was replaced. Builder said ‘we don’t see many issues with these packs’. Trans has worked phenomenal otherwise. Has to go back in for a terrible pump whine and low pressure after the 15k mile service anyway. Wanted to ask
Iblove the video. Its currently snowingnin cleveland. Once weather cleaes up. Ill check everything again. Ill see if i can make a video. Im sure rhats more insightfull. Want to make sure its no electrical before i open her up
Yep I had to cut the video but I meant to mention the solenoids can fail electrically or mechanically. I’ve seen it many times where they will ohm check but be stuck mechanically and not work. The only REAL way to check them is to apply power and blow air through them and physically see that they allow air through them and then stop air going through them by turning them on and off. That way you KNOW they are working as opposed to just ohm checking them !
HI Mr. sanders, I followed your instruction and rebuilt a e40d 2 wd diesel, came out of a 1994 7.3 non turbo, bell housing has a number 24 on top. I installed it and I now I have the over drive blinking light on and shifting problem it looks like engages in neutral and in drive however no first or 2nd gear and when I tried to go on revere it grind looks like it doesn't stop from neutral and grind onto r reverse. in other word I have no neutral. please help.
That’s not good, If there is grinding going on something wasn’t assembled correctly. It can be stuck in certain gears without grinding even neutral if a clutch is stuck on but grinding is a clear indication of parts not meshing correctly. Your going to have to pull it back out and figure out what happened
Now that is some good info there. Did felix find out what the fix was>? What you describe is exactly what mine is doing. Acts like its in high gear even in reverse. That and the OD off light is flashing. It spitout a little fluid when I got it home Im gonna try to get FORSCAN on it this week.
Rodney, it just dawned on me you said it felt like a higher gear even in reverse ! Reverse only has one gear so that problem sounds like a bad one way sprag inside the stator in the Torque Converter. My next video is going to explain all that and why, stay tuned.
@@marshallsanders5672 well ok then. Ill be watching that one for sure. Thanks for all the great info. I have most of my parts and waiting for a few more, but we will be doing the rebuild soon. A little nervous, but ready to get after it
Yep as I was shooting the video I remembered your comment. I am almost done with it but have to add a few more clips. I am determined to fill these videos with as much info as possible. It will be up by tomorrow at the latest and I want it to be right. Thanks for the feedback.
I have a 1995 f150 with a e40d transmission it falls into neutral randomly i replaced the mlps, soleniod pack, vss, checked for bad wires and the dang thing just wont act right, no codes overdrive button does what its suppose to do no flashing or anything so i dont know what to check next. if it wasn't my dads old truck that my daughter wants id have pushed it off a cliff by now 😅
Interesting! Does it drop out of a specific gear or does it “neautral” not mattering what gear your in ? Need to figure out if it’s mechanical or electrical first. When it neutrals you need to try cycling O/D button then down shift to manual 2nd then manual first to see if it find any solid gear. Neutral in Reverse also ? Let me know 🤔
@Marshall Sanders when the problem started it only did it after I drove about 20min and slowed down to get off the interstate. I would brake into the exit and when I got back in the throttle it would be in neutral and slam back into gear. The other day it did it multiple times when I left my moms. I pulled off and when it got in 2nd it went in and out of gear 3-4 times in a row. So I started shifting it manually and she did fine. The problem is random. Most of the time it shifts fine no matter if I'm light or heavy on the throttle. I pulled the ecm the other day and noticed a resistor had gone bad and done a little damage to a trace so I ordered another one I also noticed a couple wires had lost their insulation on the mlps harness so I got one from the junk yard and swapped it. When the ecm comes in I will see if it worked if it doesn't im gonna have to try my luck with having the transmission shop test it. I'm not a fan of having a shop touch my stuff because I've had them try to Rip me off before during inspection but I can't just keep throwing parts at it I still have other stuff to replace and upgrade haha.. I do appreciate people like you trying to help out strangers its good to know there are still good o'l fashion mechanics out here
Yes sir I’m all about it, sounds like your on the case and I always fix anything I can see being a problem or a potential problem first and go from there and it appears that’s exactly what your doing. Let me know what you find. The chafed wires on the MLPS harness could be sending different gear signals to the computer like you said. Especially when the vehicle slows down and speeds up as there is shifting of components and wiring when in that situation. Let me know
That’s a tough one any old school OBD 1 scanner with EEC IV capability. You can also get codes manually by grounding the STI wire in the EEC IV connector and counting the flashes of the check engine lite. Just look up retrieving codes on an early ford EEC IV on you tube you’ll find a video on doing it this way.
So I have a 97 f250 7.3l powerstroke and I can't figure out what the hell is going on when I put it in any gear it doesn't move almost like I'm just in neutral however if I power off the truck disconnect the battery's for like 30 seconds I can get it back into drive and reverse for a little while like 1 to 2 mins them it goes back to this Neutral it's crazy weird 🤔
Yes that is very weird! Something electrical should not cause it to not have any gears. Is it completely neutral or is there some sign of trying to move? Just to eliminate electrical in reverse unplug the connector at the trans and try reverse, If it still has no reverse then it has an internal problem. I have seen many times where the filter is clogging and it will move for a brief period till the filter sucks shut with debris and stops moving. Once you shut the vehicle off the fluid drainback through the filter unclogs the filter and it will move again for a brief period. Is the fluid discolored/ burnt?
@marshallsanders5672 ok so major discovery yesterday I drained all the fluid it was burnt pulls the solenoid pack it was dirty as heck then cleaned it all out extremely well with electrical contact cleaner tested all the solenoids they measured 20ohm used my power probe and tested them with air they all did there job with no leak by then threw a new filter on and put new fluid In her and drove fantastic! Drove it all Day however at night when coming home we lost over drive and reverse so I think I need to pull her again clean It out and put new fluid back in
Ok that makes more sense! Only problem is if it was clogging up with debris something is coming apart inside. You can do it over again but probably will happen again in a short period of time.
Hey Marshall my transmission just made a loud pop on me when I was doing a rolling pull in my 7.3 power stroke it’s a 4r100 and there are no codes. Just wondering if it could be the solenoid pack going bad at the wrong time. I don’t have any gear as in I can shift but nothing happens even in reverse.
Tucker ! That stinks, sounds like something inside broke ! Just disconnect the solenoid pack connector from the trans and try reverse , if still no reverse than the problem is internal and needs rebuilding ! Just make sure the transfer case isn’t the problem first does it hold park just fine ?
@@marshallsanders5672 yes hold park perfectly. My guess is that the input shaft snapped but idk how because it’s a built trans with a billet input shaft
U know ur stuff. I have a 1994 e350. Was driving on wet road. With puddles, tanny started doing crazy stuff. Weeks later tranny goes into OD but rpms are much higher than before that wet day. Any idea?
Interesting for sure! The obvious it seems water related. Sounds like a main connection got water in it and is causing cross electrical interference. No O/D light blinking? You say it goes into O/D but high RPM’s. It’s either slipping in O/D or you just lost torque converter lockup! That needs to be your first determination as to which one it is. Second I would go 0:02 with brakecleaning and drying out the main connector going into the transmission.
@marshallsanders5672 thanks. I did pull the ecm, tranny solenoid connector, the shift sensor connecter and sprayed all with electronic cleaner. That didnt seem to help. It shifts good from 1 to 2, and from 2 to 3. Whereas from 3 to 4 used to happen bout 50 to 55. Now speed has to get to 55 to 60 and I have to let off the gas to let it shift.
Oh gotcha so it’s actually a shift timing issue (when it shifts) as opposed to higher rpm’s when it is in O/D gear. Does it shift solid into 4th when you let off the gas or is it lazy/slip into O/D when you let off the gas. The throttle position sensor and vehicle speed sensor are the main sensors used by the computer for shift timing.
@marshallsanders5672 it seems kinda timid about it. Its like it's there yet like a 1/2 gear. With rpms somewhat higher. I drive the same roads in my work. There are hills, a month ago that the tranny would drop down to 3rd to get up. Now with higher rpms in what serms to be OD , these grades do not cause the drop to 3rd.
I am diagnosing a 95 E40D that takes off in 2nd with the shifter in manual 1, manual 2, Drive, and OD. The scanner indicates that the computer matches the physical shifter position. The trans came from a rolled truck and had a dent on the passenger side of the pan. The coast clutch solenoid has damage but all of the solenoids ohms out to be at about 19.7 ohms at 50 degrees F. Could all gears except 1st work properly with out the coast clutch?
It is recommended by ford to replace any previous fluids used in E4OD’s with Mercon V. On that note if your just servicing the trans and not replacing ALL the fluid I would use Mercon V. If it is a fresh rebuild with no fluid in it is not as important what fluid you use for a Non-PWM E4OD. In that case I would use either Mercon V or Dexron VI because these two fluids are superior to any previous fluids made today. I hope that makes sense!
@@marshallsanders5672 Thank you very much. I’ve always been unsure because if I’m not mistaken, Ford at one point caused a lot of confusion with their conflicting service bulletin recommendations (2007 ish). But I figured you seem to be the expert in all things 4R100. Thanks again.
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I really enjoyed watching this. I have been a professional mechanic for over 30 years. About 10 years back I was just tired of this one part of the car needing to be sent off to never never land to be repaired. As far as I have found no one was born knowing how to rebuild transmissions. There is no special down load that enters the brain of certain people that makes them know about transmissions. I have been doing amateur builds and buying tools ever since. I am getting pretty good at taking them apart, knowing what to look for, and reassembling. My success rate has gone from sketchy to near perfect (I have rebuilt somewhere between 30 and 40 units now and have spent a small fortune on tools and manuals). Still I have yet to command a solid understanding of exactly what is happening during each phase of the shift process and this kind of information is helpful in that regard. You are an excellent instructor! I just discovered you on my latest build which is an E4OD out of a motor home. Thanks for doing this! I hope you will continue.
Awesome! It warms my heart hearing comments like this! And yes no one just has the ability to rebuild transmissions, it's a learned skill just like anything else! The one thing I have ALWAYS done in mechanics is truly put my effort into understanding HOW things work and not just looking for a particular problem (UNDERSTAND THE SYSTEM AND THE PROBLEMS JUST PRESENT THEMSELVES) that is my motto. Sounds like your getting a good grasp of transmissions it just takes a lot of repetition. I have built roughly 13,000 transmissions is the only reason I have a really good grasp on them, I Also worked at AAmco so we saw everything from Chevy's to Hondas to BMW's to Mercedes and everything in between. I was determined to learn them all ! Just keep pushing yourself and you will just get better and better. Be sure to check out my E4OD/4R100 TCC/PWM Lock-up systems video as well. Its probably one of the most informative and better ones of my videos. Happy building my friend really appreciate the comment
Thanks for the encouragement. You don’t know how much I would enjoy doing a couple of builds with a seasoned builder. I think it would help me develop a better process from start to finish. Thankfully the good Lord has blessed me with a very strong mechanical aptitude. I never have had much of a “Jonny on the spot, spot on” thing going but if I have a little time to process and study I am able to figure out most anything mechanical. It’s strange, the owner and the shop manager are behind me 100%. However a couple of my fellow techs and one or two of the service writers act as though they are “offended?” that I have been building. I suspect I am like you, always happy to share what I have learned so I don’t understand what the problem is. I usually source my own parts bc if I don’t the likely hood of getting what I actually need isn’t good. Oh well all the challenges and negativity just push me even harder most of the time. Thanks again for taking the time! It’s very helpful to guy’s like me!
If I ever hit a big Lotto or something like that I may offer to pay you for some one on one training. LOL!
@@Roscotech Yeah I hear you you can't please everyone for sure, I see that quite often your owner and manager want you to learn as much as possible "they get it" but others through jealousy, negativity or whatever reason want to hold you back only issue is there just holding themselves back as well ! You do You and that's all you can do my friend.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video, I'm having unrelated issues with an e4od but still found this to be super informative as to how the e4od and slushbox automatics actually work! Really appreciate it!
Well put together. Many thanks.
Thank You Sir! Really appreciate the feedback
Hi Marshall, thanks for sharing all your E4OD/4R100 expertise. I have a 2003, F150 w/a 4R100. I recently had the "Service Engine Soon" light illuminate. The accompanying symptom (buzzing sound) made me think something was amiss w/the torque converter. Turns out, ATF was exactly 2 qts. low. I added the two quarts, which brought level to "Hot" full mark. ATF looked good. Last checked the level in spring of 2023, and was full at the time. Transmission has been operating fine (until recent incident). I also looked for leak(s) but couldn't see any. Someone on the F150 Forum remarked about the possibility of this transmission having a (vacuum) modulator, that if it fails/begins to fail, it will throw a "Service Engine Soon" light/code, and it could be the cause of the fluid loss. I examined the driver/passenger sides of the transmission (as best I could), and the transfer case, but couldn't see any vacuum hose connection. I noted the transfer case breather hose. Please, does the 4R100 have a (vacuum operated) modulator, and if so, where should I look on the transmission for it, and please how should I test it? Thanks from East/Central AZ.
A 4R100 does NOT have a vacuum modulator. That’s the “OLD” school way transmissions used to regulate line pressure rise. The 4R100 uses an Electronic Pressure Control solenoid to control line pressure rise. All done by the computer.
As far as your fluid loss goes if it is not leaking out onto the ground it can only be going to 2 places.
(1) into the radiator cooler and mixing with Antifreeze. You would easily be able to tell this because either/or the transmission fluid would be milky looking or the Antifreeze would be a milky looking.
(2) most likely cause is the transfer case input seal is hardened and letting fluid leak past and over filling up the Transfer case and subsequently going low in the transmission. Pull the fill plug on the transfer case and see if it is overfull.
@@marshallsanders5672 Hi Marshall, thanks for clarifying (although through research yesterday I learned just what you stated). Today a shop confirmed that my torque converter is failing. Also, just checked my coolant, and no ATF contamination. Haven't checked the transfer case, but am going to remove transmission for rebuild (and of course, replace the damaged torque converter). No local transmission rebuilder, (wish I was in your locale to have you work your magic on it, lol) so it will go to an individual in Phoenix with whom the local auto repair shop coordinates for transmission work.
Awe man awesome. I tried with Transmission Bench and failed this was way more in depth and put me where I need to be.
Great! Glad to hear that, yeah I struggle watching transmission bench as well. It all depends on who you resonate with. Thanks for the comment.
Great video clearly explained and very informative...!
Thank You Sir! Really appreciate the comment glad you were able to understand the video!
Another Excellent Video Marshall, I can wrap my head around the very basic functions a lil bit anyways thanks to these instructional break downs. Awesome Job!
I really appreciate you taking the time to go through this e4od transmission the way you did. I have a 1994 E350 moter home that has a E4od in it. Not having any problems with it but serviced it wanted to get fermilur with for the future. Thanks again enjoyed the video.
Yes Sir your very welcome!
Thank you! I now have a decent understanding of how the E4OD is controlled electronically.
Awesome , Your very welcome
Man you just answered all my questions on my 91 f350 dump truck I just bought!!!! Thank you!!!! GREAT VIDEOS MAN!!!!!!!
Awesome ! the whole point of the videos. Glad you got something out of it.
Thank you so much for this video. Its the best one i found, describing how an auto trans is working and showing what is going on than internal.
Your very welcome ! Over the years I have learned that the BEST way to fix something is first understand how it works ! Thought this video was necessary for that reason.
I love it!! The more I can understand about how the transmission works it makes it so much easier to figure out from where a problem is originating. Thank you very much for taking the time to do these videos. I wonder if Amazon Prime will let me send you a case of beer.
You ABSOLUTELY hit the nail on the head with this comment ! I meant to mention this fact in my mental aspect video ! It TRULY is ALL about UNDERSTANDING HOW Transmissions work and the rest takes care of itself. If a person UNDERSTANDS HOW an entire Subsystem works then diagnosing and fixing the problem just presents itself ! Learn how all the subsystems work together and one is “GOLDEN” so to speak ! One of the best comments yet , Thank you for that ! I’m eventually going to get T-Shirts made for my channel, Only if your successful maybe buy a T-Shirt/ A case of beer would be awesome! Thanks my friend ! Good Stuff, I hope everyone watching my channel READS this Comment !
@@marshallsanders5672 I will definitely be buying a t-shirt at least. I have a channel and I plan on recording my E4OD project but doing it while wearing a Marshall Sanders t-shirt would be cat's ass!. I'll put up the video but you will get the credit and I'll definitely link your channel. There's not much on my channel yet but I plan on retiring sometime in the near future and I'll be in my shop working on several projects which will be recorded. I have not only the E4OD from my 1990 F-250 I'm going to rebuild the 7.3 idi diesel. I also have an Alfa Romeo Spider I'm going to restore along with several motorcycles. I also like quirky cars and they don't get much more quirky than SAABs of which I've had four. I drive a 9-3 turbo but I'm looking for a mid-eighties 900 turbo. It will be a hodge -podge of videos from cynical and sarcastic old guy with ADHD. It should be interesting if nothing else. I just want to share what little I know from a lifetime of working on things with engines. I've never painted a car in my life but I'm going to attempt to teach myself so that has potential to be amusing at least. It might end up being the most fisheye, lace curtain and runs ever seen on one vehicle but I'm going to give it a shot! Keep teaching my friend because I want to learn from the best!
I Love it ! The quirkier the better ! Sounds like you got a plan did not realize you have a channel your doing well with it. It takes time to make videos for sure so you should be set once you retire ! Can’t wait to see your E4OD videos. Love this shit. I have a bad case of ADD myself I understand, but if harness is can be a true POWER so to speak ! Good Stuff keep on rolling !
More more please
Excellant video very well presented.....i just put in a 4r100 i had purchased of off a ford factory retired guy whom i felt was being honest with me .said it was in great shape.it sat outside for 4 years before i installed it ,now i can drive around town ony sounds exacty like the one your troubleshooting.any chance you might help
Hi Marshall, I really enjoyed your explanation on how the E40D changes gears and why. Fantastic video, looking forward to the rebuild of this trans. Cheers! the Panel beater New Zealand
Yes Sir , Good to hear from you !
Man. This helped ij more than one way.
My 4r100 in "d" wont do anythijg. Hit the gas ans itll axr l I e it wanta to go. Identical as if it was low on fluid.
Put it in manual low ans itll go. Seems like it may slip some shifting manually throughiut the gears i have a 2002 f250 7 3 crewcab 4x4
I love sll the help. Nice knowing do much.
i was thinking of dropping off my transmission off with you. Might make good content. We can talk in privet abour that possiblitt
Great video good explanation Yeah 43 minutes went fast That's how you know
I've barely just started watching the intro. This video is going to be so invaluable for me troubleshooting my E4OD! I called a legit transmission shop recently and they wanted almost $100 just to scan the codes which I already know and be like yup, it shifts rough "and then go from there if more is needed". I canceled XD
Good stuff in this video for sure ! If you don’t see what you need in this one shout out and we’ll get you on the right track ! Like and subscribe it helps the channel out !
@@marshallsanders5672 Well sir I didn't want to bother you too much but if you don't mind I would be happy to email you the symptoms and diagnostics I've done so far on my truck! Or I can comment it here but it will be quite long!
Just shoot me an email !
@@marshallsanders5672 Sorry I don't know your email!
240- 240-1360 text me I’ll give it to you.
Marshall, Excellent video, really got an education. You laid it out like a professional instructor. I'm helping a friend and hers makes a vio!ent clang and shudder after coming to a stop. Strange because it's not when accelerating again, but only after stopping, and a few seconds after stopping sometimes, very repeatable. It shifts and works fine in manual modes. Once it gets going it seems to work normally. Just when stopping. So sharp it feels like you've been rear ended. It's like it is trying to release or engage the coast clutch. But your explanation of the electrical side of operation means I should really ! get it on the a scanner. You gave me a lot to go on, much appreciated. V
John C.
Just saw this post ! I can almost guarantee you the Torque converter clutch is staying applied for one reason or another. TCC sol. Sticking/ TCC apply valve sticking/leak in the TCC release circuit etc. The reason an automatic transmission can be at a full stop and not stall the engine is because the Torque Converter. When the Torque Converter Clutch stays engaged at a stop is when you get that shutter/stalling effect going on. Be sure to watch my TCC video it explains everything you need to know about what’s going on with your trans ! Hope this helps !
OMG! I have a 91 Ford F150 and first, the truck did not want to run, got her to run, and now the column shifter moves but does not go to any gear, and it's the same E4OD but with 4x4.
Thanks Great Information!! Where is your shop located? My transmission is shifting hard 1-2 and 3and overdrive are really close together around 38mph. From your videos I think it’s the solenoids.
Cool video, the transmission that came in my lightning started taking off in second and when I would put it in manual first it was binding remember those clutch’s we found in all the parts I brought with me there was some burned up welded together, I wonder if that guy is having similar thing going on, because my would start off in second gear because the intermediate clutch was welded together or something like that, anyway this was a very cool video 43 minutes went super fast
S
Yep you understand what’s going on, that’s exactly what was happening with your trans originally! Good stuff ! I’m in the middle of your build video see you soon on that one !
Marshall, great information. I will need to review the different ratios and directions planetary gear sets turn when various elements are held, but well done. I'd appreciate a Part Two on the more advanced theory as I'd bet a lot of your other viewers would as well. Cheers.
Yes Sir ! I’m trying to put these videos out as quick as possible but it is not easy ! I was going to do a video part 2 that EXPLAINS if each clutch fails on or off what you would actually FEEL in the drivers seat. You may have convinced me to make it ! I can make that video all the way up until I load the guts in the case ! We’ll see
@@marshallsanders5672 That would be great! Perhaps showing how the power transfers from one planetary gear set to the other. - i.e. what elements are being held to achieve the proper ratio(s) - and how the clutch packs lock the drums either to the case or next drum. Your "Whos' In Control" video was great, but I was trying to get a mental picture of what was going on inside the drums, when the sprags locked or were overrun and the effect of the brake band in manual. A lot of moving parts for the newbie. LOL Tall order for Auto Trans 101! Really thankful you are sharing your years of experience in the field with the DIY'ers.
Yes ok I got what your asking mostly ! I’ll work that in to the video ! There are basically BRAKE Clutches/Bands and Driving Clutches which just DRIVE a part of the gear train. Good stuff ! Thanks for the request I’ll do my best ! HaHa ! I will go as deep as anyone is willing to go and so far I’m getting more requests to go deep. The next video is about TCC apply and STUPID important in automatic transmissions so let’s go from there !
@@marshallsanders5672 Sounds good!
@@marshallsanders5672 I reviewed your video again along with an exploded transmission view and it finally clicked how the transmission achieves the 1-3, OD, coast and engine braking. Great stuff.
the only thing that I can think, and I probable did wrong is the 4th gear drum gave me a lot of troubles to put it in, because of the small teeth line up. can you make a video about it. thanks for responding to my previous question.
Marty maybe mention my torque converter problem and how that was related to the OD light on my shifter. My trans was not shifting correctly but would sometimes go away for a while. Then it would come back. Maybe comment on how you determined it was the torque converter
Yes Sir ! You beat me to it. Ive been planning to do an entire video on Torque Converters and all the problems that happen with them because that’s a whole video in itself .
Awesome info! I have built a few 4r100’s for 99-03 super duty trucks and a second gen lightening. A close buddy wants me to rebuild his 1996 e4od, I’ll buy the atsg manual and read up on it. Any chance you can do a differences video and maybe suitable upgrades to the e4od? I have a small scrap yard of old 4r100 parts, not sure what would drop in the e4od incase something is hard to come by for his unit ie steel planetary vs the aluminum and so on.
Great ! I’m go lad you got something from the video. I do hope to do more on the very topic your asking about. I have a whole host of videos on the E4OD as the two I have built and videoed are E4OD’s be sure to check them out there is tons of info in all of my videos. From My “E4OD/4R100 Lock-Up Explained” to my “Transgo Tugger Kit Install” video I cover a lot.Sounds like you have a pretty good handle on them and also are sitting on a goldmine of parts as everything nowadays is stupid expensive ! Happy Building my friend stay tuned !
This has to be the best video I have found! I have a 97 F-350 with a E4OD, I am having a issue of it starting out in 2nd gear. Even when manually putting it in first. All other gears work like normal, how would I go about checking the low sprag since that seams to be the only one related to 1st gear and none of the others if I am understanding your chart right.
Tray, Glad you got something out of the video ! Good observation on your part. With that said if the low sprag was bad (not holding when you put it into gear O/D 1st) you would get a NEUTRAL like condition because the geartrain would just spin up instead of applying power to the output shaft. And when you put it into Manual first the LOW/REVERSE clutch comes on and (Overrides the sprag) therefore you would get first gear in manual low. If that makes sense ?
There are multiple reasons for it to take off in 2nd. This is where a Scanner is a must and you need to see what the computer is SEEING as far as inputs (MLPS manual lever position sensor) ect. And what the computer is COMMANDING as far as gear selection when you put it into drive ( is it commanding first gear ? If after scanning it and you see the computer is COMMANDING 1st gear and determine it is an INTERNAL Transmission problem then shift your efforts to going inside the transmission. (Sticking valves in the valvebody, 1-2 Shift valve spring broken, worn out solenoid regulator valve bore) As you can see there is no one shot answer in your question but by the process of elimination you should be able to find the problem. I hope this answer at least STEERS you in the right direction ! Thanks for watching
@@marshallsanders5672 appreciate the information that gives me plenty to go with.
Thank you for these E4od technical videos!
I am learning a lot from you.
Any chance you can post a video regarding no forward engagement?
I bought a 91 E250 as a project.
I bought with only reverse.
Reverse is completely manual.
At this point I'm just throwing parts at it.
I have an inova code puller...but besides tps and neutral safety.....no codes.
My next part is the solenoid pack connector.
Which needs replaced regardless.
Due to age, loose fit and broken retainer clip.
I suspect it's just electric....but?
Actually on the contrary. No forward is something internal. To get forward gear in O/D range it’s just the forward clutch,low roller clutch, and O/D roller clutch holding.
To see if the O/D roller clutch is blown, very common on early units put it on O/D range and hit the cancel button on the stalk. This puts it in manual 3rd and applies the Coast Clutch which over rides the O/D roller clutch.
If still no forward then pull it down to manual low which in turn overrides the low “Roller Clutch “ by applying the Low/Reverse Clutches. If still no forward then it can only be something mechanically wrong with the forward clutch itself, stripped splines,burnt clutches pit broken “Belvelle Spring” etc.
The only thing something wrong “Electrical” will cause is taking off in a higher gear when put into forward O/D range. The forward clutch gets fed fluid strait from the Manual valve Mechanically when you put it into gear. Hope this helps and doesn’t confuse you even more !
No confusing. I'm learning as I go but I totally respect experience and knowledge. Your input is greatly valued to me.
I'll try asking this question a little more straightforward.
Can a bad solenoid pack connector cause a no forward issue?
Or should it drive with the solenoid pack connector disconnected and shifted to manual low?
Ok, you asked the question just fine. I just gave you the long answer is all.
To keep it simple even with the solenoid pack disconnected you should have some kind of forward engagement in at least 1 of the 3 forward modes meaning shifter in O/D range,2nd range, or Manual Low range.
If it still feels like Neutral No engagement at all in those three ranges then it IS an Internal transmission problem not Electrical.
Hey Marshall I have a 91 f150 2wd with the e4od in it. I am have issue with my when taking off from dead stop it shutters and is very sluggish once you get to 35mph it does fine. I was able to manually shift to first and take of better but second still sluggish if anything now but once over 35 in 3and overdrive it does ok.I am going to take out and rebuild myself but wanted to ask if doing a full overhaul sound like it would fix this issue and do I have more to worry about. Also thanks for taking time to do these videos they have given me a better understanding.
Most likely a full rebuild will take care of it. Be sure to scan it for any computer electrical before you pull it out. If it is original there will be a good bit of updates to do ! Thanks for the comment!
Hi Marshall. When 12v checking the solenoid pack on a PWM R4100 should the PWM control solenoid actuate (click) like the rest of them?
Hi marshall great video i just leanrt about automatics haha this is awesome. I have a e40d from a 92 f150 and have a shift problem. Feels like it clunks into gear when shifted into gear. And from 1st to 2nd gear it kicks into the next gear. Agressive kick. Not a ferm shift like it would be adding springs. Any idea what it might be? Ive done speed sensors psom and shift acumulator rebuild. Shift solonoid i havant touched yet.
Thanks
Moto, Almost sure its stuck in high line pressure, Whether its the computer commanding it to be high or whether the EPC solenoid or Boost Valve in the pump is sticking causing it to always be high. Is the check engine lite on ? Sometimes when there are specific codes in the computer (even some engine related codes) the computer will put the transmission into fail-safe mode! Fail-Safe mode is the computer puts it into high line pressure to protect the transmission from burning the clutches up, Seen this many times. Just have to determine whether the computer is commanding high line pressure or whether its something internal failing causing it. i would do a line pressure check and most likely you'll see it stuck at 110-120 psi all the time or higher. it should be around 70 psi at idle and go up the more you hit the throttle.
Nice Job, Thanks very much for the unvaluable teaching. I just want to add, that your "first red flag" on the diagnosis could be wrong. It´s not the same solenoid setup for the 2nd gear in OD, and for the 2nd manual. It´s clear the scanner shows 2nd manual, so both solenoids "A" and "B" should be Off, only Coast Clutch solenoid should be ON. So different from 2nd. in OD, when both solenoids OFF means a 4th gear, so take a look if you´re checking solenoids setup, on OD or Manual. thanks
Thanks for the comment not everyone follows this stuff as closely as you ! Much appreciated! As far as the “red flag” goes O/D 2nd AND Manual 2nd both shift solenoids are “SUPPOSED“ to be powered on but on his scanner in Man. 2nd they are both off which would give 4th. Gear.
Because the computer shows them off when they should be on is the “Red Flag” Thanks for watching!
Hi Marshall, Excellent work! I have a class a with only 57K on it. Trans goes forward in all gears, even wants to in park. No reverse. What are you thoughts. Full of fluid, no leaks, fluid looks perfect.
Sounds like the Forward clutches are welded/ burnt on ! If they can’t spin free in reverse it won’t move ! If it’s trying to move in park the forwards are definitely welded on ! Unfortunately it needs to come out and be rebuilt
I hate to ask here, but what’s the most likely cause for a trans that primarily feels like it’s taking off in second? If I pedal it right it’ll use first.
Am I likely to have a pressure leak on solenoid B? It’s been like this since the rebuild and I don’t believe that was replaced. Builder said ‘we don’t see many issues with these packs’. Trans has worked phenomenal otherwise.
Has to go back in for a terrible pump whine and low pressure after the 15k mile service anyway. Wanted to ask
Whenever someone has difficulty understanding Newton’s third law - shown him an automatic transmission.
Iblove the video. Its currently snowingnin cleveland. Once weather cleaes up. Ill check everything again. Ill see if i can make a video. Im sure rhats more insightfull. Want to make sure its no electrical before i open her up
Yep I had to cut the video but I meant to mention the solenoids can fail electrically or mechanically. I’ve seen it many times where they will ohm check but be stuck mechanically and not work.
The only REAL way to check them is to apply power and blow air through them and physically see that they allow air through them and then stop air going through them by turning them on and off. That way you KNOW they are working as opposed to just ohm checking them !
HI Mr. sanders, I followed your instruction and rebuilt a e40d 2 wd diesel, came out of a 1994 7.3 non turbo, bell housing has a number 24 on top. I installed it and I now I have the over drive blinking light on and shifting problem it looks like engages in neutral and in drive however no first or 2nd gear and when I tried to go on revere it grind looks like it doesn't stop from neutral and grind onto r reverse. in other word I have no neutral. please help.
That’s not good, If there is grinding going on something wasn’t assembled correctly. It can be stuck in certain gears without grinding even neutral if a clutch is stuck on but grinding is a clear indication of parts not meshing correctly. Your going to have to pull it back out and figure out what happened
Now that is some good info there. Did felix find out what the fix was>? What you describe is exactly what mine is doing. Acts like its in high gear even in reverse. That and the OD off light is flashing. It spitout a little fluid when I got it home Im gonna try to get FORSCAN on it this week.
He’s still in the process I had an emergency at home my dog ran away so it’s been two weeks of that ! Back on it next week will keep you updated
Rodney, it just dawned on me you said it felt like a higher gear even in reverse ! Reverse only has one gear so that problem sounds like a bad one way sprag inside the stator in the Torque Converter.
My next video is going to explain all that and why, stay tuned.
Not sure what you found on the scanner but scanning is definitely the first place to start.
@@marshallsanders5672 well ok then. Ill be watching that one for sure. Thanks for all the great info. I have most of my parts and waiting for a few more, but we will be doing the rebuild soon. A little nervous, but ready to get after it
Yep as I was shooting the video I remembered your comment. I am almost done with it but have to add a few more clips. I am determined to fill these videos with as much info as possible. It will be up by tomorrow at the latest and I want it to be right. Thanks for the feedback.
I have a 1995 f150 with a e40d transmission it falls into neutral randomly i replaced the mlps, soleniod pack, vss, checked for bad wires and the dang thing just wont act right, no codes overdrive button does what its suppose to do no flashing or anything so i dont know what to check next. if it wasn't my dads old truck that my daughter wants id have pushed it off a cliff by now 😅
Interesting! Does it drop out of a specific gear or does it “neautral” not mattering what gear your in ? Need to figure out if it’s mechanical or electrical first. When it neutrals you need to try cycling O/D button then down shift to manual 2nd then manual first to see if it find any solid gear.
Neutral in Reverse also ? Let me know 🤔
@Marshall Sanders when the problem started it only did it after I drove about 20min and slowed down to get off the interstate. I would brake into the exit and when I got back in the throttle it would be in neutral and slam back into gear. The other day it did it multiple times when I left my moms. I pulled off and when it got in 2nd it went in and out of gear 3-4 times in a row. So I started shifting it manually and she did fine. The problem is random. Most of the time it shifts fine no matter if I'm light or heavy on the throttle. I pulled the ecm the other day and noticed a resistor had gone bad and done a little damage to a trace so I ordered another one I also noticed a couple wires had lost their insulation on the mlps harness so I got one from the junk yard and swapped it. When the ecm comes in I will see if it worked if it doesn't im gonna have to try my luck with having the transmission shop test it. I'm not a fan of having a shop touch my stuff because I've had them try to Rip me off before during inspection but I can't just keep throwing parts at it I still have other stuff to replace and upgrade haha.. I do appreciate people like you trying to help out strangers its good to know there are still good o'l fashion mechanics out here
Yes sir I’m all about it, sounds like your on the case and I always fix anything I can see being a problem or a potential problem first and go from there and it appears that’s exactly what your doing. Let me know what you find. The chafed wires on the MLPS harness could be sending different gear signals to the computer like you said. Especially when the vehicle slows down and speeds up as there is shifting of components and wiring when in that situation. Let me know
what scanner will scan 1994 7.3 diesel pre obd
That’s a tough one any old school OBD 1 scanner with EEC IV capability. You can also get codes manually by grounding the STI wire in the EEC IV connector and counting the flashes of the check engine lite.
Just look up retrieving codes on an early ford EEC IV on you tube you’ll find a video on doing it this way.
So I have a 97 f250 7.3l powerstroke and I can't figure out what the hell is going on when I put it in any gear it doesn't move almost like I'm just in neutral however if I power off the truck disconnect the battery's for like 30 seconds I can get it back into drive and reverse for a little while like 1 to 2 mins them it goes back to this Neutral it's crazy weird 🤔
Yes that is very weird! Something electrical should not cause it to not have any gears. Is it completely neutral or is there some sign of trying to move? Just to eliminate electrical in reverse unplug the connector at the trans and try reverse, If it still has no reverse then it has an internal problem.
I have seen many times where the filter is clogging and it will move for a brief period till the filter sucks shut with debris and stops moving. Once you shut the vehicle off the fluid drainback through the filter unclogs the filter and it will move again for a brief period. Is the fluid discolored/ burnt?
@marshallsanders5672 ok so major discovery yesterday I drained all the fluid it was burnt pulls the solenoid pack it was dirty as heck then cleaned it all out extremely well with electrical contact cleaner tested all the solenoids they measured 20ohm used my power probe and tested them with air they all did there job with no leak by then threw a new filter on and put new fluid In her and drove fantastic! Drove it all Day however at night when coming home we lost over drive and reverse so I think I need to pull her again clean It out and put new fluid back in
Ok that makes more sense! Only problem is if it was clogging up with debris something is coming apart inside. You can do it over again but probably will happen again in a short period of time.
Hey Marshall my transmission just made a loud pop on me when I was doing a rolling pull in my 7.3 power stroke it’s a 4r100 and there are no codes. Just wondering if it could be the solenoid pack going bad at the wrong time. I don’t have any gear as in I can shift but nothing happens even in reverse.
Tucker ! That stinks, sounds like something inside broke ! Just disconnect the solenoid pack connector from the trans and try reverse , if still no reverse than the problem is internal and needs rebuilding ! Just make sure the transfer case isn’t the problem first does it hold park just fine ?
@@marshallsanders5672 yes hold park perfectly. My guess is that the input shaft snapped but idk how because it’s a built trans with a billet input shaft
Oh gotcha hard to tell what happened if it’s a built trans🤔
Sounds like your putting out some power with the engine so anything is possible !
U know ur stuff.
I have a 1994 e350. Was driving on wet road. With puddles, tanny started doing crazy stuff. Weeks later tranny goes into OD but rpms are much higher than before that wet day. Any idea?
Interesting for sure! The obvious it seems water related. Sounds like a main connection got water in it and is causing cross electrical interference.
No O/D light blinking?
You say it goes into O/D but high RPM’s. It’s either slipping in O/D or you just lost torque converter lockup! That needs to be your first determination as to which one it is.
Second I would go 0:02 with brakecleaning and drying out the main connector going into the transmission.
@marshallsanders5672 thanks. I did pull the ecm, tranny solenoid connector, the shift sensor connecter and sprayed all with electronic cleaner. That didnt seem to help. It shifts good from 1 to 2, and from 2 to 3. Whereas from 3 to 4 used to happen bout 50 to 55. Now speed has to get to 55 to 60 and I have to let off the gas to let it shift.
Oh gotcha so it’s actually a shift timing issue (when it shifts) as opposed to higher rpm’s when it is in O/D gear.
Does it shift solid into 4th when you let off the gas or is it lazy/slip into O/D when you let off the gas.
The throttle position sensor and vehicle speed sensor are the main sensors used by the computer for shift timing.
@marshallsanders5672 it seems kinda timid about it. Its like it's there yet like a 1/2 gear. With rpms somewhat higher. I drive the same roads in my work. There are hills, a month ago that the tranny would drop down to 3rd to get up.
Now with higher rpms in what serms to be OD , these grades do not cause the drop to 3rd.
Sounds like it lost torque converter clutch lock-up.
Need the help Thanks
Your Welcome !
I am diagnosing a 95 E40D that takes off in 2nd with the shifter in manual 1, manual 2, Drive, and OD. The scanner indicates that the computer matches the physical shifter position.
The trans came from a rolled truck and had a dent on the passenger side of the pan. The coast clutch solenoid has damage but all of the solenoids ohms out to be at about 19.7 ohms at 50 degrees F.
Could all gears except 1st work properly with out the coast clutch?
What fluid do you recommend for my 1996?
It is recommended by ford to replace any previous fluids used in E4OD’s with Mercon V. On that note if your just servicing the trans and not replacing ALL the fluid I would use Mercon V. If it is a fresh rebuild with no fluid in it is not as important what fluid you use for a Non-PWM E4OD. In that case I would use either Mercon V or Dexron VI because these two fluids are superior to any previous fluids made today. I hope that makes sense!
@@marshallsanders5672
Thank you very much. I’ve always been unsure because if I’m not mistaken, Ford at one point caused a lot of confusion with their conflicting service bulletin recommendations (2007 ish). But I figured you seem to be the expert in all things 4R100. Thanks again.
Anyone else experience an P1742 issue?