The paint is conductive it just has more resistance so when you set you multimeter to the continuity setting it's not going to beep. Every guitar I've gotten with shielding paint I end up just using foil over it because they didn't bother painting the entire cavity. They always miss big sections around the lip or there always parts missing here and there on the bottom.
Rodolfo, I tested the "paint" in the video and it was not shielding paint so the aluminum shielding has definitely helped (although the guitar was not very noisy in the first place). I hope you have subscribed to my channel?
@@ManotickGuitarTech The shielding is conductive. It just has more resistance so when you set your multimeter to the setting you had it on it will not beep and possibly not show a reading depending on the amount of resistance. If you set it to one of the higher settings if you don't see a reading on the continuity setting you'll get a reading of the resistance. Shielding paint has quite a lot more resistance than foil and most of the time they don't even do a good job of painting the entire cavity. They always have sections missing on the bottom or on the lip in nearly every guitar I've opened up. I just end up using foil. Also, you should check overtime if the foil tape's conductive adhesive is still working. I usually apply the tape to where it doesn't matter, either using solder, fold under a piece or making sure conductive parts (pots, shielded plate, etc.) connects things.
The paint is conductive it just has more resistance so when you set you multimeter to the continuity setting it's not going to beep. Every guitar I've gotten with shielding paint I end up just using foil over it because they didn't bother painting the entire cavity. They always miss big sections around the lip or there always parts missing here and there on the bottom.
So the pickup cavities don't need any shielding after all?
Love your videos. Thanks.
Glad you like them!
Hello. Did you noticed an improvement compared to the shielding paint before?
Rodolfo, I tested the "paint" in the video and it was not shielding paint so the aluminum shielding has definitely helped (although the guitar was not very noisy in the first place). I hope you have subscribed to my channel?
I asked because in my experience, perfect continuity did not improve the noise reduction (paint vs. foil)
@@rodolfoamaralguitar you are right- so much depends on the pickups and electronics
@@ManotickGuitarTech thanks for answering, cheers
@@ManotickGuitarTech The shielding is conductive. It just has more resistance so when you set your multimeter to the setting you had it on it will not beep and possibly not show a reading depending on the amount of resistance. If you set it to one of the higher settings if you don't see a reading on the continuity setting you'll get a reading of the resistance. Shielding paint has quite a lot more resistance than foil and most of the time they don't even do a good job of painting the entire cavity. They always have sections missing on the bottom or on the lip in nearly every guitar I've opened up. I just end up using foil. Also, you should check overtime if the foil tape's conductive adhesive is still working. I usually apply the tape to where it doesn't matter, either using solder, fold under a piece or making sure conductive parts (pots, shielded plate, etc.) connects things.
Can you also use regular aluminum foil (the food packing type) instead?
It does not have an adhesive.
Will you be doing anymore upgrades?
Yes, I will be changing the tuners and adding a Bigsby vibrato soon. I hope you have subscribed to my channel?
@@ManotickGuitarTech will do!
Why would you need to shield a guitar with humbuckers since they are supposed to be noiseless by design?
Generally, they are...sometimes cheap pots can cause noise as well. Just a precaution, really.
different sources of noise.