Getting close to finishing this CNC conversion of the Sieg 7x12 mini lathe with LinuxCNC and a Mesa 7i96. The final parts are painted and installed, but there is a little set back, and the config is not quite done.
It is possible to repair ribbon cables. It's very fiddly soldering, and replacement is obviously the most reliable choice, but if replacement isn't gonna happen repair IS possible. I had to do it a couple times, best result was staggering the soldered points so they weren't all in a line. I gooped it up with (non-acetic acid curing) silicone, and put a permanent plastic splint over it to keep it safe. That keyboard has been working for 17 years, so it doesn't have to be a temporary fix.
Interesting story about the end-of-lease inspection. I did quite a few of those, plus a few handover surveys, on business jets. I never had a buyer’s inspector find anything that ridiculous.
I was worried about the smurf-blue motor, but I was relieved when you covered it up. Frankly, I don't even know why blue paint exists outside a child's water-color set.
You may already know this. I was observing you cutting the jacket on the ethernet cable. The strand of string looking stuff is there to pull to cut the sheathing back as far as you need it. Just strip the jacket a few inches on the end, grab the string and pull at an acute angle to the jacket. Just a helpful tip. This is a great series. I have been binge watching it. Just bought a 6i25 and 7i76 to upgrade my cnc router. Thanks for sharing. Joe
From reading the comments about repairing the cable, I would say that this is screaming out for a collaboration video. I do hope someone with the expertise and equipment steps up and adds one more interesting twist to this already epic tale.
Fellow Aircraft mechanic here. This is the first video of yours I’ve watched and right when the Clecos came out I knew I’d like your stuff. Haha. Gonna go back and watch the rest of your series. Keep up the good work 👍🏼👍🏼
The final hurdle is within touching distance. Great job so far tho. Looks really clean and professional. Looking forward to the projects that will be turned on your CNC lathe.
You've got it moving under power - that's always a great accomplishment with automation conversions! Configuring custom controls in LinuxCNC HAL can be kind of a chore but it's worth it to see all the gadgets work in concert. Also, I've accidentally butchered flex cables too. They make silver pens that allow you to draw conductive traces - sometimes it's possible to tape up the flex and fix it that way ... if there's no other option.
Thanks. This is my second MESA/LinuxCNC project, and I understand how to approach problem solving with it now, but still a lot of help from the forum Jedi's.
At least you took the fan shroud off to paint it. I used to work for a large custom CNC company, sometimes they'd just paint the motors where they sat. You'd have blue shadows everywhere the machinery green paint didnt get to, especially down in the cooling fins on the cast motors
This construction series has been a real showcase of your skills, in lots of areas. How about dropping the intro splashes mentioning 'polishing turds'? These are high-quality videos, with that one exception. Nobody will miss that cloud if it's gone. Looking for forward to your next set of adventures.
I am trying to warn people from doing this. You can do as much work as you want on a machine like this, but it is still a poorly designed, too thin bed of insufficient rigidity for the swing.
@@RotarySMP I realize that a lot of people have CNC'd small lathes that have appreciably more mass than what you started with, but that wasn't why I wrote the post. Technically, you're certainly on good ground to try to warn people off about hopping up a teeny Siig or whatever you started with, but, just one of many examples; by golly, the amount of skill you displayed in the scraping job was masterful. That, alone, could help a ton of other people get through a build they otherwise might not even attempt, much less finish. OK, yeah, you polished some night soil, but that's nothing to be ashamed of, and not a good thing to advertise. I just cringe a little when I see a very talented person criticize themselves. No one else will.
It's the journey, not the destination, right? RIGHT?! :D (I have to convince myself of that for my projects as well, hah) Great stuff as usual. The tape on the arm trick is brilliant.
You could add some weld or braze material to the microswitch instead of a zip tie as a long term solution. Or braze or solder a bit of a spacer to actuate the microswitch.
Good idea. Even easier would be to make a sleeve to slip over it to thikcen it up, which could be captured by the existing nuts. I'll do that when I inevitably have to pull it down to fix something.
Really a great project. Please show as final version. I do hope you will find another project I like you performance and your videos. Greetings from Germany Wolfgang
Thanks. I have a longer list of projects that I want to do, than can possibly be accomplished. Don't worry, more content will follow. Thanks for your kind feedback Wolfgang.
Thanks for sharing. We have cell phone repair shops on most every corner in the States maybe you could give them a ring near you to see it they have a fix for that ribbon?
I have been so concentrated on the mini lathe, that a number of smaller projects have piled up, such as repairing the Do-All gearbox. I'll probably do at least a few months of shorter projects before starting another longer one. Thanks for watching.
you might want to consider a belt guard for behind the monitor, because if it rips for some reason it might do more damage to the monitor more than just tear a ribon cable.
it's looking great. QUESTION: How well is the RPi working for you in a lathe? I've had some difficulties with timing - switch back to a PC and it's fine... RPi and the steppers get all pissy and start howling. (timing)
@@RotarySMP OH! ...it looked like an rpi connected to the sunfounder display.... okay, now that i go back and look at it again, not sure what i was looking at :) ... fair enough... thanks!
@@rolandgaboury Also my mistake, I thought we were talking about the Schaublin. The Minilathe also has a PC SBC. I think it is a Gigbyte Brix. I sort of looked at LCNC on RPi and decided it wasnt mature enough.
I bet you were completely pissed over the torn ribbon. I don't like your chances of getting a replacement short of complete replacement. Perhaps you can use it as a second display for a large coordinate and status display for example. Polished turd or not the finished product looks very professional, congratulations.
I'm not so sure. Chinese companies are in my experience very generous, and sunfounder is a chinese company, as indicated by their "Sunfounder corporate video" found here: www.sunfounder.com/about-magento-demo-store, and maybe they'll say "Just keep this screen, we'll send you a new one."
What a mind boggling project. I have binge watched at least twenty of the previous videos. Major props guy. I am particularly impressed with your sheet metal skills. That cabinet alone is fabulous.
I've repaired flex cables like this before by carefully scraping away the insulation and soldering thin enamelled copper wire to the traces, but it's painstaking work and I had the benefit of a nice stereo microscope at work as well as scalpels, tweezers and a really nice Metcal iron.
I love those retro switches on the panel. Those late in the project screw ups are the worst- that sinking feeling... I am looking forward to more unicorn horn thread cutting videos!
How is your "funnel" from the spindle going to be if you have some long bar traveling through it? Is it large enough to stop something that gets a bit whippy from beating it to death? Just a thought. Your sheet metal skills are pretty good by the way.
Thanks. It is only thin (0.75mm) so if I do get a thin bar whipping, it were be a serious mess. It is only about 100mm long though. Mostly to stop swarf going back through the spindle bore, I stick a cork in it.
One of the next videos should be making a universal nut, so your close-tolerance carrot holder doesn't get damaged. I mean, 0.1 * 25.4 * 10⁻⁷ km is barely acceptable when it comes to runout, right?
Since the ribon cable is already damaged, why don't you grad a soldering iron and some really thin enameled Wire and try to connect the litle traces back together???
Since it is right on the edge of the housing, I'd have to pull the touch panel off the LCD. For now, I'd rather work around it, and get on with finishing the lathe wiring.
@@RotarySMP In that case, then the inspector surely was stupid for wasting time on something insignificant. Perhaps the inspector was even unskilled for not knowing what was important and what was not :P Having worked with quality inspection myself, I could understand the behaviour, if it were specified, even though it might not be significant, it is still a problem if not done according to specs, because what else might then not be done to spec? But in this case it is just silly :)
@@RotarySMP realy nice thank you this will make a perfekt cristmas present for my dad he rebuilds a big aluminium living container on a old magirus Deutz 120 d10
You don't need an entire LCD, just a new digitizer. They are fairly inexpensive costing only $15 or so on either eBay or AliExpress. Just search for digitizer and the name of your tablet. The digitizer is usually glued or taped using double sided tape. It can be removed by applying heat and using a thin blade to separate it from the LCD panel. Lucky for you, your panel looks like one of those ultra cheap tablets where they don't bother to glue the entire digitizer to the LCD.
Thanks. The monitor is the SunFounder 10.1" for raspberry pi. I looked for 10.1" digitizer, sunfounder, raspberry pi etc, but have not yet stumbled on the correct one. But will keep looking. It is definitely only thin strips of doubler sided tape which hold it on.
@@RotarySMP Don't use the name. Use the number that affixed to the LCD panel inside. If you give me the number I can try and locate the digitizer for you.
Hi, Finished! what are am I going to do on a Sunday morning... Fingers crossed you have something equally exciting to entertain us with in the future... Take care Paul,,
@@RotarySMP There are two types of repairs. One is to solder in small coated wires to bridge the cut. The other one is to take a similar piece of flex cable with the same trace dimensions and solder it over the cut. It is not that easy because it seems like the cut is pretty close to the casing. The best solution ofc is to get the flex cable replaced. If that fails due to whatever the reason is, we can try to bridge the cut.
@@RotarySMP this cable can be fixed, nothing special, just accurate soldering under the microscope with tiny wires. Note that IC is mounted on the cable, so no easy cable replace can be done. I can do that, but 8000km...
@@macebr5394 YOu must have a way steadier hand than me :) I will wait to see what SunFounder says about a replacement panel. That would be easiest, as it should just a little warmth to soften the double sided tape and pop it off and replace it.
@@КонстантинКучер-щ5м I would love to see a video of how you do that. Do you have a special kind of soldering iron holder to steady it? I am hopying they sell me the whole touch panel. IC, Ribbon cable and capacitive panel, which is just taped to the LCD.
@@RotarySMP yes i know, i was referring to change whit the software the gear using the lever that you put in the machine using a linear activator or something
That is a typical 3Ph induction motor. The fan draws air in the back, and blows it across the cooling fins on the outside of the stator housing. I am not sure how essential it is on a little 750W motor. Never seems to get hot.
Are you worried about potential for electro-magnetic interference with the motor close to the back of the LCD panel and all the switch wiring? (Sorry, I'm an old guy from a long-ago era of electronics being hyper-sensitive to EMI... I realize modern kit is much better about such things.)
I am of the mechanical persuasion, and just assume everythig works (till it doesn't). My Wiring would make any electrician or electronics speciallist want to run away.
I am guessing you are german? Can you tell me where I can get these aircraft rivvets and rivvet gun in germany? I would be really interested in a video about your sheetmetal break.
@@RotarySMP But then it would collect chips on the keypad. I think the surface mount is more practical. With that Maho you could quickly knock out a bezel in what? A day and a half? lol
pretty nice going! If i ever get a lathe i would go for a 1.5" spindle bore. Still looking at a 290V lathe. Any way, i found this on grabcad: grabcad.com/library/precision-mathews-pm1228mv-lathe-conversion-1. It something simular as what you did; converting a lathe to CNC. But you have the touch screen so. That is different. Im first going to read a lot about lathes, and CNC conversions, including a book about CNC milling. This i am sure about: I want closed stepper motors, and i want hall sensors. Also i want a dedicated PC or a raspberry pi 4 for each CNC machine. These machines should have enough power to compute a CNC program.. Greetings, Jeff
If you look at how much space it takes, you will see that you come out ahead buying a used industrial CNC with a similar forprint than converting a manual machine.
Move over Niko, I'm coming in, Ok,,,, So you went through an elaborate explanation regarding the decision on why to buy a CNC mill, instead of doing a CNC retrofit on a regular mill, additionally you stated how happy and easy it was to actually accomplish that task. SO here goes Niko,,,,,,,, Why bother doing a CNC retrofit on (using your language) a turd. I'm confused Niko (ie: No 1 FAN) Can't you send this man a rusting CNC lathe hulk.........C'mon man he's working his ass off here retrofitting a pile of manure. Trust me, I once had a SMITHY, I know a turd when I see it. SO beat this NIKO, I'm a professional Turd identifier, licensed, bonded and insane. Proof (1). Ever help out a constipated rhino. trust me I can spot a turd. (2) Ever had to feed the elephants at the zoo, (after Dark) yes, I can spot a turd. (3) Ever seen a humpback whale take a dump, and get hung up in the feeding frenzy of all the little fish there to enjoy dinner, yes I can spot a turd, and that lathe is a turd. But the retrofit is excellent!!! happy days
All correct, Best lipstick I could find, but she still oinks. I hope people dont see this series as a good idea. my goals were: 1/ learn to scrape a whole machine, using the the small, light, worthless POS I had on hand (Goal acheived) 2/ Start a TH-cam channel with a project (Goal acheived) 2a/ be done in about 3 months and move on to somethig else (Fail). Watch this space ;-)
nice, that's really looking pro!
the ribbon cable broke my heart.
Thanks Tony. I was way too careless with that.
@@RotarySMP Not careless. ARTISTIC.
@@misterbreakit2006 :)
It is possible to repair ribbon cables. It's very fiddly soldering, and replacement is obviously the most reliable choice, but if replacement isn't gonna happen repair IS possible. I had to do it a couple times, best result was staggering the soldered points so they weren't all in a line. I gooped it up with (non-acetic acid curing) silicone, and put a permanent plastic splint over it to keep it safe.
That keyboard has been working for 17 years, so it doesn't have to be a temporary fix.
@@somebodyelse6673 I have already contact SunFounder, so I guess we will see what they say about a replacement touch section.
Excellent! Looking forward to the "cheap drill press into a 5 axis machining centre" series.
That would make about as much sense as this did :)
Then the cheap chinese angle grinder to CNC high precision surface grinder, you should do them all 😂
@@eugencsl Brilliant. Don't forget the cheap battery drill to power the Tesla conversion.
@@RotarySMP Good one mate 👍🏼😅 will do
@@RotarySMP For that one (Tesla conversion) you can try team up with Colin Furze please?
Interesting story about the end-of-lease inspection. I did quite a few of those, plus a few handover surveys, on business jets. I never had a buyer’s inspector find anything that ridiculous.
Yeah, that one really took the cake. Idiotic. :)
I was worried about the smurf-blue motor, but I was relieved when you covered it up. Frankly, I don't even know why blue paint exists outside a child's water-color set.
I like that.I was watching this video...
th-cam.com/video/H0NdPWRqMv0/w-d-xo.html
an thinking about the same. :)
@@RotarySMP Thanks for the link. I took a look and that Harrison was something I wish I could un-see.
You may already know this. I was observing you cutting the jacket on the ethernet cable. The strand of string looking stuff is there to pull to cut the sheathing back as far as you need it. Just strip the jacket a few inches on the end, grab the string and pull at an acute angle to the jacket. Just a helpful tip.
This is a great series. I have been binge watching it. Just bought a 6i25 and 7i76 to upgrade my cnc router. Thanks for sharing.
Joe
Thanks for the tip.
From reading the comments about repairing the cable, I would say that this is screaming out for a collaboration video. I do hope someone with the expertise and equipment steps up and adds one more interesting twist to this already epic tale.
:) Good idea.
Fellow Aircraft mechanic here. This is the first video of yours I’ve watched and right when the Clecos came out I knew I’d like your stuff. Haha. Gonna go back and watch the rest of your series. Keep up the good work 👍🏼👍🏼
Welcome. Thanks for watching.
Your sheet metal artistry is outstanding. Job well done.
Thanks for the feedback.
Wow, beautiful work!
Thanks, and thanks for watching.
your content is really well paced and very enjoyable. I hope to see this handsome machine in use
Thanks for the kind words. I looks forward to getting some use out of it as well.
So close. Man that machine is going to be the cutest cnc lathe ever.
Thanks. I hope it also works.
The final hurdle is within touching distance. Great job so far tho. Looks really clean and professional. Looking forward to the projects that will be turned on your CNC lathe.
You and me both. Thanks for the encouragement.
2:50 - "Daddy love wood shop" 😁 I guess you're not the only one who paints in that room.
:) Yep, I got grafitti'd
You've got it moving under power - that's always a great accomplishment with automation conversions! Configuring custom controls in LinuxCNC HAL can be kind of a chore but it's worth it to see all the gadgets work in concert. Also, I've accidentally butchered flex cables too. They make silver pens that allow you to draw conductive traces - sometimes it's possible to tape up the flex and fix it that way ... if there's no other option.
Thanks. This is my second MESA/LinuxCNC project, and I understand how to approach problem solving with it now, but still a lot of help from the forum Jedi's.
At least you took the fan shroud off to paint it. I used to work for a large custom CNC company, sometimes they'd just paint the motors where they sat. You'd have blue shadows everywhere the machinery green paint didnt get to, especially down in the cooling fins on the cast motors
I was tempted to :)
Muy buen trabajo..te felicito por el resultado impoluto..gracias por compartir..un saludo y mucha salud
Danke Sehr , Muchos gracias, thank you.
Man what a bummer about the screen. Hope it wasent a to expensive screen. I am looking forward to see it making some chips mate 👍👍
They cost about €130. I have asked the manufacturer whether they will sell just the touch panel.
Me too.
This construction series has been a real showcase of your skills, in lots of areas. How about dropping the intro splashes mentioning 'polishing turds'? These are high-quality videos, with that one exception. Nobody will miss that cloud if it's gone. Looking for forward to your next set of adventures.
I am trying to warn people from doing this. You can do as much work as you want on a machine like this, but it is still a poorly designed, too thin bed of insufficient rigidity for the swing.
@@RotarySMP I realize that a lot of people have CNC'd small lathes that have appreciably more mass than what you started with, but that wasn't why I wrote the post. Technically, you're certainly on good ground to try to warn people off about hopping up a teeny Siig or whatever you started with, but, just one of many examples; by golly, the amount of skill you displayed in the scraping job was masterful. That, alone, could help a ton of other people get through a build they otherwise might not even attempt, much less finish. OK, yeah, you polished some night soil, but that's nothing to be ashamed of, and not a good thing to advertise. I just cringe a little when I see a very talented person criticize themselves. No one else will.
Your work is so good , your channel should have millions of viewers.
Where are you originally from ? I can't figure out your accent haha
I kiwi in Austria. Thanks for your encouragement.
@@RotarySMP Where that have that fork of Linux called Linnox
@@Andrew_Fernie Between my ears. Not sure why I always say that wrong.
It's the journey, not the destination, right? RIGHT?! :D (I have to convince myself of that for my projects as well, hah)
Great stuff as usual. The tape on the arm trick is brilliant.
Thanks. I didn't do it on the first last week, and the sleeve rode up while I held parts, and I had to scrub for a while to get the paint off.
You could add some weld or braze material to the microswitch instead of a zip tie as a long term solution. Or braze or solder a bit of a spacer to actuate the microswitch.
Good idea. Even easier would be to make a sleeve to slip over it to thikcen it up, which could be captured by the existing nuts. I'll do that when I inevitably have to pull it down to fix something.
Really a great project. Please show as final version. I do hope you will find another project I like you performance and your videos. Greetings from Germany Wolfgang
Thanks. I have a longer list of projects that I want to do, than can possibly be accomplished. Don't worry, more content will follow. Thanks for your kind feedback Wolfgang.
Nice work
Thanks.
Thanks for sharing. We have cell phone repair shops on most every corner in the States maybe you could give them a ring near you to see it they have a fix for that ribbon?
There are plenty of them here as well. I'll see what SunFounder says, but that might also be an option.
That turd is getting really shinny !! awesome work
p.s what are the spring loaded clamps you use called ? they look incredibly handy
Cleco's. They are fantastic.
www.amazon.de/s?k=cleco&__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&ref=nb_sb_noss_2
It's looking good.
Thanks
Looks great, and like your tube to collect swarf, but will any cutting fluid come out the rear spindle hole, and fling onto electronics?
I made a chute to prevent that.
What do you have planned for future videos? Love to see another build series.
I have been so concentrated on the mini lathe, that a number of smaller projects have piled up, such as repairing the Do-All gearbox. I'll probably do at least a few months of shorter projects before starting another longer one. Thanks for watching.
really nice integration! 👍
Thanks.
you might want to consider a belt guard for behind the monitor, because if it rips for some reason it might do more damage to the monitor more than just tear a ribon cable.
The drive belt is under the old Mini Lathe cast zinc belt cover, so the monitor is protected from it.
wow looks awesome, cant wait to finish my own small milling machine cnc conversion
You have to post videos, or it didn't happen :)
@@RotarySMP I dont know how to make interesting videos
@@DolezalPetr Neither did I in January. Some would say I still dont :)
it's looking great. QUESTION: How well is the RPi working for you in a lathe? I've had some difficulties with timing - switch back to a PC and it's fine... RPi and the steppers get all pissy and start howling. (timing)
What RPi? I am using an HP small PC.
@@RotarySMP OH! ...it looked like an rpi connected to the sunfounder display.... okay, now that i go back and look at it again, not sure what i was looking at :) ... fair enough... thanks!
@@rolandgaboury Also my mistake, I thought we were talking about the Schaublin. The Minilathe also has a PC SBC. I think it is a Gigbyte Brix.
I sort of looked at LCNC on RPi and decided it wasnt mature enough.
Great job!
Thanks for the feedback. Enjoy the series.
I bet you were completely pissed over the torn ribbon. I don't like your chances of getting a replacement short of complete replacement. Perhaps you can use it as a second display for a large coordinate and status display for example. Polished turd or not the finished product looks very professional, congratulations.
Yet, wasn't happy about that. I also doubt they will offer the parts. Oh well, at least I have a spare monitor for which I have no need :)
I'm not so sure. Chinese companies are in my experience very generous, and sunfounder is a chinese company, as indicated by their "Sunfounder corporate video" found here: www.sunfounder.com/about-magento-demo-store, and maybe they'll say "Just keep this screen, we'll send you a new one."
@@vincentguttmann2231 That would be cool, but I guess we will see.
What a mind boggling project. I have binge watched at least twenty of the previous videos.
Major props guy. I am particularly impressed with your sheet metal skills. That cabinet alone is fabulous.
Thanks doe the kind feedback.
If you or someone else is patient I bet this flex cable an be soldered to work again. Just takes time and some tiny wires :)
Like I soldered the swarf chute in the last video :)
@@RotarySMP Yeah something like that but try to look like you know what you are doing 🤣
I've repaired flex cables like this before by carefully scraping away the insulation and soldering thin enamelled copper wire to the traces, but it's painstaking work and I had the benefit of a nice stereo microscope at work as well as scalpels, tweezers and a really nice Metcal iron.
@@ferrumignis I have none of those, so I don't have any confidence in doing that well.
Fantastic I love it so cool
Thanks. Hope it eventually works better as well.
I love those retro switches on the panel. Those late in the project screw ups are the worst- that sinking feeling... I am looking forward to more unicorn horn thread cutting videos!
Thanks, I have a couple of real jobs lined up for it.
How is your "funnel" from the spindle going to be if you have some long bar traveling through it? Is it large enough to stop something that gets a bit whippy from beating it to death? Just a thought. Your sheet metal skills are pretty good by the way.
Thanks. It is only thin (0.75mm) so if I do get a thin bar whipping, it were be a serious mess. It is only about 100mm long though.
Mostly to stop swarf going back through the spindle bore, I stick a cork in it.
WOW the machine looks amazing . So when will you be adding the multi tool turret and automatic bar feeder? LOL.
Never :) I have never done a batch of parts which warranted it.
@@RotarySMP darn I was hoping this would turn into a full lights out manufacturing machine. LOL
@@my1987toyota I could have made that brake part on the manual lathe in 1/10 the time. Still needs a lot of babysitting, and a better operator. :)
@@RotarySMP I know the feeling all too well
One of the next videos should be making a universal nut, so your close-tolerance carrot holder doesn't get damaged. I mean, 0.1 * 25.4 * 10⁻⁷ km is barely acceptable when it comes to runout, right?
Good call.
👍👍😎👍👍. Love the valuable advise....... #1, don’t do it. #2 if you must, design it better. I’ll try and keep that in mind. 😜
:)
Since the ribon cable is already damaged, why don't you grad a soldering iron and some really thin enameled Wire and try to connect the litle traces back together???
Since it is right on the edge of the housing, I'd have to pull the touch panel off the LCD. For now, I'd rather work around it, and get on with finishing the lathe wiring.
@@RotarySMP Agreed, it looks great ahahah
@@andresgodinho Thanks. Need to get some use out of it now.
The oxygen mask box wasn't painted right? How would the pilots work out where to find the masks!?!
Yeah, emergency, smoke, pull out the quick doning mask, notice that the interior of the box is primer green, crash while worrying about it.
@@RotarySMP Do you know whether it was actually specified to be painted in a certain color on the inside?
@@Gin-toki Almost certainly not. They are always just primer green like all the other unseen components.
@@RotarySMP In that case, then the inspector surely was stupid for wasting time on something insignificant. Perhaps the inspector was even unskilled for not knowing what was important and what was not :P
Having worked with quality inspection myself, I could understand the behaviour, if it were specified, even though it might not be significant, it is still a problem if not done according to specs, because what else might then not be done to spec?
But in this case it is just silly :)
@@Gin-toki It was. I felt sorry for the Leasing company rep. He can't just tell the guys to go pound sand.
Hi nice Video what is the name of the reusable rivets ther are amazing
Cleco
www.amazon.de/s?k=cleco&__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&ref=nb_sb_noss_2
@@RotarySMP realy nice thank you this will make a perfekt cristmas present for my dad he rebuilds a big aluminium living container on a old magirus Deutz 120 d10
@@JustinSeiffert Good Idea. Clecos are super useful. The little Cleco clamps as well.
if they dont replace only the touch part you can try to fix the broken cable, is complicated but possible
I'll give them some more time to respond, but could try that.
@@RotarySMP i see
You don't need an entire LCD, just a new digitizer. They are fairly inexpensive costing only $15 or so on either eBay or AliExpress. Just search for digitizer and the name of your tablet. The digitizer is usually glued or taped using double sided tape. It can be removed by applying heat and using a thin blade to separate it from the LCD panel. Lucky for you, your panel looks like one of those ultra cheap tablets where they don't bother to glue the entire digitizer to the LCD.
Thanks. The monitor is the SunFounder 10.1" for raspberry pi.
I looked for 10.1" digitizer, sunfounder, raspberry pi etc, but have not yet stumbled on the correct one. But will keep looking. It is definitely only thin strips of doubler sided tape which hold it on.
@@RotarySMP Don't use the name. Use the number that affixed to the LCD panel inside. If you give me the number I can try and locate the digitizer for you.
@@bobweiram6321 Good idea thanks. I'll seach for that model number.
Hi,
Finished! what are am I going to do on a Sunday morning... Fingers crossed you have something equally exciting to entertain us with in the future...
Take care
Paul,,
Finished...not quite, I'll get a little more miliage out of this yet :)
@@RotarySMP Good man...
Nice, let all of our projects get done some day! mishaps happen, press on!
THanks for the encouragement. Will do.
How many traces are torn? Maybe we are in the same area and i can help you fix it.
I estimate at least 9. They are tiny. How would you fix it?
@@RotarySMP There are two types of repairs. One is to solder in small coated wires to bridge the cut. The other one is to take a similar piece of flex cable with the same trace dimensions and solder it over the cut. It is not that easy because it seems like the cut is pretty close to the casing. The best solution ofc is to get the flex cable replaced. If that fails due to whatever the reason is, we can try to bridge the cut.
@@RotarySMP this cable can be fixed, nothing special, just accurate soldering under the microscope with tiny wires. Note that IC is mounted on the cable, so no easy cable replace can be done. I can do that, but 8000km...
@@macebr5394 YOu must have a way steadier hand than me :) I will wait to see what SunFounder says about a replacement panel. That would be easiest, as it should just a little warmth to soften the double sided tape and pop it off and replace it.
@@КонстантинКучер-щ5м I would love to see a video of how you do that. Do you have a special kind of soldering iron holder to steady it? I am hopying they sell me the whole touch panel. IC, Ribbon cable and capacitive panel, which is just taped to the LCD.
you can add a linear activator to change the gear ratio?
There is a High -Lo range gearbox in the Mini-Lathehead. I was in high gear, I should have dropped it to low gear, for 2.5x torque.
@@RotarySMP yes i know, i was referring to change whit the software the gear using the lever that you put in the machine using a linear activator or something
@@MakarovFox I still have to work out how to implement that in LinuxCNC.
@@RotarySMP i see, good luck :)
how does that fan help the motor?
That is a typical 3Ph induction motor. The fan draws air in the back, and blows it across the cooling fins on the outside of the stator housing. I am not sure how essential it is on a little 750W motor. Never seems to get hot.
Are you worried about potential for electro-magnetic interference with the motor close to the back of the LCD panel and all the switch wiring? (Sorry, I'm an old guy from a long-ago era of electronics being hyper-sensitive to EMI... I realize modern kit is much better about such things.)
I am of the mechanical persuasion, and just assume everythig works (till it doesn't). My Wiring would make any electrician or electronics speciallist want to run away.
As the old saying goes: When it works, stop fixing it. :)
@@davidedwards9157 Yep.
I am guessing you are german? Can you tell me where I can get these aircraft rivvets and rivvet gun in germany? I would be really interested in a video about your sheetmetal break.
Sorry. A New Zealander in Austria. I bought my aircraft tools and parts in the USA during business trips. Mostly Arcraft Spruce, and ATS.
Here is a link to the Bend brake build thread...
www.cnczone.com/forums/bending-forging-extrusion-/56672-forum.html
KOR - I see 8 months have gone by, perhaps by now you know that Aircraft Spruce and Specialty company has a distribution branch in Germany.
Awesome job but it will never be finished unless you machine an aluminium bezel for the keypad 😉
I should have set the Keypad behind the aluminium profile.
@@RotarySMP But then it would collect chips on the keypad. I think the surface mount is more practical. With that Maho you could quickly knock out a bezel in what? A day and a half? lol
@@Andrew_Fernie We'll see.
its not if you polish a turd. its how much shineola you need to get a good surface!! poppy's workshop says HI
Aint that the truth. Thanks a lot.
Those ribbon cables.....
That clumsy dumbass owner! :)
shiny!
Thanks, but it is semi matt paint.
@@RotarySMP not the paint, i was refering to the turd getting more and more shiny...
@@claeswikberg8958 Good point. Sure is.
EPISODE 37 !? PAUSE !! HEY !! MORE EPISODES !!!
How about eipsode 38?
th-cam.com/video/7g7KNUCsrI0/w-d-xo.html
@@RotarySMP YOUR !!! EPISODES !! ARE !! QUITE !! A ! NIGHTMARE !!!! FOR !! ANYONE !! TO !! WATCH !!!
Subscribed
Thanks.
pretty nice going!
If i ever get a lathe i would go for a 1.5" spindle bore.
Still looking at a 290V lathe.
Any way, i found this on grabcad: grabcad.com/library/precision-mathews-pm1228mv-lathe-conversion-1. It something simular as what you did; converting a lathe to CNC. But you have the touch screen so. That is different.
Im first going to read a lot about lathes, and CNC conversions, including a book about CNC milling.
This i am sure about: I want closed stepper motors, and i want hall sensors. Also i want a dedicated PC or a raspberry pi 4 for each CNC machine. These machines should have enough power to compute a CNC program..
Greetings,
Jeff
If you look at how much space it takes, you will see that you come out ahead buying a used industrial CNC with a similar forprint than converting a manual machine.
Move over Niko, I'm coming in, Ok,,,, So you went through an elaborate explanation regarding the decision on why to buy a CNC mill, instead of doing a CNC retrofit on a regular mill, additionally you stated how happy and easy it was to actually accomplish that task. SO here goes Niko,,,,,,,, Why bother doing a CNC retrofit on (using your language) a turd. I'm confused Niko (ie: No 1 FAN) Can't you send this man a rusting CNC lathe hulk.........C'mon man he's working his ass off here retrofitting a pile of manure. Trust me, I once had a SMITHY, I know a turd when I see it. SO beat this NIKO, I'm a professional Turd identifier, licensed, bonded and insane. Proof (1). Ever help out a constipated rhino. trust me I can spot a turd. (2) Ever had to feed the elephants at the zoo, (after Dark) yes, I can spot a turd. (3) Ever seen a humpback whale take a dump, and get hung up in the feeding frenzy of all the little fish there to enjoy dinner, yes I can spot a turd, and that lathe is a turd. But the retrofit is excellent!!! happy days
All correct, Best lipstick I could find, but she still oinks.
I hope people dont see this series as a good idea. my goals were:
1/ learn to scrape a whole machine, using the the small, light, worthless POS I had on hand (Goal acheived)
2/ Start a TH-cam channel with a project (Goal acheived)
2a/ be done in about 3 months and move on to somethig else (Fail).
Watch this space ;-)
Cool :D the pilots mask box was not painted in the inside :D who the fuck cares :D
although lovely work
Really. Boeing never paints the inside on the mask stowage. It is primer green.
It's looking good.
Thanks.