I'm in my 60s and I love when I see young guys not afraid to get their hands dirty. Not enough of that going on these days- much respect your way for sure. Good job showing the differences. The rubber 'balancer' is also known as a 'frequency dampener' - and yes- the cheap sub
I recently bought an axle from Raxles, but I don't plan to buy from them again. Total cost with taxes and two way shipping for driver side axle was $326. Keep in mind, that if I did not have an OEM axle that looks good (not rusty) to return to them, I would have been hit with a core charge of about $75. If I didn't have my OEM axle, I would have paid about $375 for an axle. That's not the end. So four months later I'm getting this vibration and I pulled the axle from Raxles and the outer joint is binding, so that's a damaged joint. Yes, lifetime warranty, but they're going to want $60 for a replacement (I gotta pay for two way shipping). At this point if I want a good axle, my total will be $386 ($326+$60). Keep in mind, I am installing the axle myself, otherwise I'd have to pay a mechanic to swap the axles. It's been frustrating to say the least. I recently bought a good used OEM axle for my TSX on eBay for $60 and I am rebuilding it myself. Wish me luck.
@@flacko001 The rebuild was challenging because one of the joints of the used axle I got from ebay was binding and stuck. Luckily I had another exact same joint from an OEM axle I pulled from the salvage yard a year earlier. I bought the boot kit from the dealer and got the job done. The rebuilt axle has been good for 2+years so far. It's a lot of work to rebuild. A cheaper alternative that I am willing to try next time is an axle from Insane Shafts. They make axles for racing applications, so they should be solid to say the least. I recorded myself doing the axle rebuild but I never had the chance to make the video for youtube. It's on my list of videos to make, I should get it done around Summer this year.
In my experience: Aftermarket axles will often have different construction, such as hollow shaft tubing and lack of rubber balance weight. They're often not balanced well and will cause vibration at high vehicle speeds. They're more prone to rust breakage since they're usually inferior metal and sometimes hollow. They usually have cheap grease and poor heat treatment of the bearing surfaces. Reman axles don't last long because of how they refurb them. The cheap way is to machine the bearing surfaces in the joints that are worn and galled up, and fit oversize bearings. The damage and the process of milling that damaged surface smooth removes the factory case hardening which is often not replaced by a second round of heat treating. If it is treated, it may not be a high quality deep hardening. The soft surface gets worn and hammered by use when it's reinstalled regardless of grease or driving style. You'll have high quality shafts and joint cups and splines, but those soft bearing surfaces and replacement bearings are not up to the task of lasting for a long time. It's deceiving! I personally try to buy low mileage, rust-free used axles from a junk yard. You'll get a factory OE axle that has not been molested, and if the car was simply rear ended or T boned, the risk of axle damage is very minimal. If you have to remove the axle ans the vehicle has over 50k miles, replace the axle shaft seal in the transaxle case as insurance.
That is true with most cheaper aftermarket axles. The thing about Raxles Axles is that they don't reuse or remanufacture the old bearings and joints, they will replace with them BRAND NEW ones which makes their quality to top notch. The price does somewhat reflect it, however quality parts carry a higher price tag. So far though, they're well worth it.
@@milanmastracci Excellent. You get what you pay for with CV axles. Same goes for starters, alternators, calipers, and compressors. If you buy the low tier remans, they are probably DOA. It hurts to shell out for premium parts but you'll only pay for it once.
@@milanmastracci hey brow. Whats the website that you buy those raxles cv axle from? I'm hearing some sound coming from my front end but not when I'm turning,only when I'm moving off. I need two.
The whole reason I need to replace my OEM axle at only 75k miles is due to poor build quality. I don't really see any downside to going cheap on the replacement. $545 for a new OEM axle vs $67 for aftermarket.
Another method is to get steel cable or non stretch rope. Tie a loop in them that fits in behind the axle yoke. Feed a length of the cable out about 3 foot past the wheel arch. Tie the outboard end to a sledgehammer or similar. Then do your best tiger woods impression and give it a little swing and boom. Out she pops.
There is an advantage to new aftermarket axles that I didn't see in the top 20 comments. You will notice that there is a rubber weight on remanufactured axles, that is a dampener to make up for the axle not being balanced. With new aftermarket axles they are built as a balanced unit and don't need the dampener. That said, you have lowered your Honda, and you are putting NON-OEM stress on your CV joints. When a car is higher the CV shaft extends to a relaxed position. When your car is lowered the joint is compressed, jamming it and limiting mobility. You need shorter axles. The "high quality axle" will fail if it is the stock length. In other words expect them to last about the same as the "cheap" axles.
I like your trick of gently prying on the CV joint while tapping it laterally. I've always just pried all around the joint until it pops out but I will try your method next time. Your presentation and narration are great.
Raxles are the best. I have used four sets on various cars and never had a problem. The problem with the aftermarket axles is that they re-grind the surfaces for the balls that allow the CV joints to flex. Once they grind, they remove the heat-treated hardening of the bearing surfaces that the balls glide on. While they are still steel, they are no longer hardened steel and they will wear about 10 times faster than CV joints with hardened surfaces. Raxles only uses newly manufactured CV joints that are all new hardened steel. About the only thing you get on a Raxles axle that is not new is the axle shaft itself. These shafts are all checked for straightness and straightened if needed.
My Raxles stayed strong for about 15 years in New York city, which is hard on everything. I guess it was around 100,000 miles. One of the boots finally ripped but I drove it for years with a ripped boot and when the Subaru died a sudden timing belt death at 240k the axles still had not started to click yet.
I have pulled the plug on remanufactured parts, including axles. Brake calipers are the only thing I will use remanufactured unless there's no other practical choice. The aftermarket new axles have treated me well over the years, but with no hot-rodding kind of use to go with them.
Honestly, I think it goes back to the old saying. You get what you pay for if you buy cheap aftermarket parts. You're going to get cheap aftermarket. Parks, sometimes you can get remanufactured. Axles, that are not very good either. Depending on who remanufactured, then and how it was done. I do like the idea of oem parts, but companies build their reputations on their work. Be careful out there. Don't be too cheap, but don't be an idiot. Either paying $600 for a brand new O. AM axle from the factory?
I had a similar issue with my wife's prius. I replaced them twice with axles from o'reilly and I kept hearing a metallic clunk at start/stop. Turns out the diameter of the spline was 1mm smaller than stock. They double checked the part number and swore they were the right ones. Replaced with OEM ($$ ouch $$) and the noise is gone.
What I learned from fixing cars since high school is your best bet is always OEM, after that you can go with used oem from junkyard or salvage yard, last is rebuilt oem.
RAXELS are the best.I Just did my daughters 2012 Audi Q5 axles. Raxels customer service is excellent. Any questions on the job your are doing is answered by Marty, no hurry, no problem. This job was a piece of cake.
This is a common problem with Hondas. The aftermarket axles will give you problems, headaches, and waste your time and money. I've done it myself, haha. I noticed the aftermarket axles don't come with that rubber damper in the middle of the shaft. You can rebuild the axle yourself with OEM axles from the salvage yard and OEM boot kit, but it is a messy job and requires persistence and band clamp tools, I've done it and don't recommend it for a noob. Currently, my driver side axle needs replacement, I'm going to give Raxles a try.
How were raxles ? I’m going to replace my Axles but don’t wanna buy Duralast or really any other aftermarket brand except raxles if I see more good reviews
@@gioo2961 They were expensive for what you get. I ended up with an axle that is binding at one of the joints. Car was vibrating on the side the Raxle axle was put in. I took it off and the vibrations went away. I have to send it back to them for repair but I need to pay for shipping to send it back. They need the core of your OEM axle or they give you a core charge. Why? Because they reuse the OEM axle core and add their aftermarket parts to it and sell it back out to other ppl. They don't use OEM CV joints and they don't use OEM dampers. I wouldn't buy from them again. Next time I plan to try Insane Shafts which makes racing application axles which should be more than adequate for normal driving. I ended up rebuilding my own OEM axle with parts from OEM axles that I pulled from the same car at the salvage yard. I know how to identify an OEM axle so it was easy for me to find OEM axles at the salvage yard. You can also find used OEM axles on eBay. I bought one on Ebay and one CV joint was binding, so only half the axle was usable but it was still worth it for the parts.
@@ChavezDIY Thank you for taking the time to respond! I think im gonna pick up the 500HP axles off "insane axles" a big fear of mine is the "Raxles" brand being dishonest when they claim to use OEM parts Thanks again and i will let you kniow what i end up doing.
How much were yours,? I bought a VW mk4 and it has Raxles, they are Red and the motor is pushing around 340whp at 30psi boost but one of my boots is broke
@@rustysmith-kc6ys I think they were about $170 all in, but can't really remember. It was a while ago and I sold the car a couple of years ago so don't have the records. I remember it was more than the $100 Chinesium versions and quite a bit less less than the OEM. They were top quality and worked perfectly. I would not hesitate to buy them again. Marty at Raxles was great to deal with.
One should always be ready to plug the transmission when pulling out a half shaft! Or end up with transmission fluid all over the ground! Find a bottle cap the same size as your opening! Also, With the half shaft out, That would be the perfect time to lube your inner race & also grease your output shaft! Now for those in the northeast, use a cookie wheel on a die grinder & clean up the rust or oxidation on the hub & inner part of the wheel. Good time to inspect the brakes & lube the guides! I also use my 90 degree die grinder to clean up my brake guides & etc. Always grease the axle where it pushes threw the hub & rotor to prevent it from rusting/oxidizing!
I've never checked axles the way he did. Up down motion on inner joint is normal. Slam the nut home with the wheels off with an impact gun is fine. One last thing, a cracking noise coming from either side with the brake applied and giving it gentle gas usually indicates a loose axle nut. You get it on a reverse to drive typically in a parking lot maneuver.
The more modern Honda and Acura's eat axles due to their power and weight. Yes a cheap aftermarket axle will work well on a Civic, Corolla, Mirage, Escort, Elantra etc but when you double or triple the horsepower output the Chinese parts are not up to the task. I believe the problem is they use the same Rzeppa joint not considering the power output of the application. Additionally aftermarket parts suppliers realize people are not keeping a used car that long and have adjusted quality accordingly.
Raxles are awesome! I put a set on my Subaru at about 100,000 Miles(about 161,000Km for the Canadians) 100,000 miles later and many icy winters I noticed a rubber boot was ripped. I just continued to drive it with a ripped boot up to almost a quarter million miles. The car finally bit the dust but the Raxles were still working fine even with a ripped boot.
What brand and where did you get your rebuilt axles? Thanks for any response. I'm looking for some for my Subaru outback right now. Oh I see there's a company called Raxles now. I assumed that was a short way of saying rebuilt. My bad
@@jackle842000 I would say if you think you have a year or more to drive your car, it is worth the extra price of Raxles but still way cheaper than the stealership. As I found out changing the life time warranty $60 rebuilds found at your everyday auto parts store wastes a lot of time because you have to change them every 6 month to a few years. Raxles stands behind their axles for life. The only problem is the time lost when you have to remove and ship, which I never had to do.
Thanks bro..I have a same problem with my Honda civic 13 the original axle cost 340$ but I found same axle in Amazon for 120$ thank you again for open my mind...
Since you don’t know. A pro tip to holding your wheel and torqueing the axle nut PUT A THICK SCREW DRIVER IN THE ROTOR it’ll stop against the brake caliper 🤦🏼♂️
Yep. I thought that would be one of his options. I learned it last week. I'm replacing the passenger side axle this week on my 06 MDX. The OEM lasted 14 years. I need to decide between OEM or Raxle. OEM with core is $280.
I bought a rebuilt OE axle for my Honda at a major parts house and it did not last long. I then went with an import axle (China). We’ll see how long that lasts, but it is working well. I question the rebuilt ones because I don’t know what they reused and what they replaced. I think it’s a crapshoot. OE new is best of course, but $$.
1) oem new (about 500 each if I recall) 2) Raxles USA remanufactured axles with new CV ends, they use good cores only(They won't accept any rust damaged shafts for cores) and give lifetime warranty.(about 275) 3) oem from reputable salvage yard(such as LKQ) with low miles and 1 year warranty.(Cheapest option, I paid $50 for an axle with less than 40k on it) 4) Actually forget #4 - don't buy any aftermarket chinese junk or remans from auto parts chain.
milanmastracci Because whe I turn my wheel to the left side especially when I start to drive I feel some bump/low noise, and it might be from the Axles .
can use the folding jack and a bit of chain looped around the socket to pull out the differential side socket, most of the time ya have to use a arc welder and melt the axle nut off of the wheel hub side.
From someone that road races FWD Hondas, I can destroy a parts-store axle in 20 minutes of racing. OEM Honda axles are extremely hard to beat for quality, however they are hard to find and you need to know what you are doing if you are going to rebuild them yourself. I hoard RSX axles for good reasons!
That is what happens with most do it yourselfers. Sometimes you have to know a little bit to know the difference between a part that works, and a part that works well.
Raxel is a real small business. Marty wants you to call him. He does not have sales people, no customer service, no online form or shopping cart to order an axel, no inventory. If you need a raxel axel soon, forget about it.
Wow! When did this become a thing? When I was your age we always went oem rebuilds not new or cheap knockoffs. Ok I lied I’m older than that we actually had to rebuild them ourselves for awhile as there was no cores yet. Lol
In Finland, there is a saying: "A poor person cannot afford to cheap out". Ie. buy a high quality (OEM) item instead of a cheapo part, as you more often than not will end up spending more money by buying the same thing multiple times.
Got a left Drive Shaft replacement 2 months ago on a 2002 Volvo S80: I bought this aftermarket part from this store. It is hard to find drive shaft for my volvo, because It equipped with the GM 4T65EV transmission. But finally I found on polar parts website. On the left side the transmission oil started to leak.... Maybe old seal... OK Then we replaced the SEAL: I bought VOLVO ORIGINAL seal... After 1 month, It started to leak AGAIN. What can cause it? - Can a seal installed incorrectly? badly? - Can an aftermarket drive shaft misfits and cause transmission oil leaks? I am really tired, spent a lot money on this drive the car back every time to repair center.
Hi what brands have failed on you so far? And how long did each last for? I got a quote from raxle and the cost a good chunk of my 2005 Honda element...what do you recommend? Thanks
The Raxles are obviously the best of you have the money .. but I've had zero issues with the *cardone and cardone select* axles if you are looking for a cheaper alternative. They offer new ones and rebuilt OEM. I have bought both. I had the new ones on my Maxima for 150k and had zero issues and currently have on my G with zero issues at 20k and come with a lifetime warranty I believe
Well made video, but I can't stop talkking back at the video. If you are chewing through that many CV joints, you have an issue with an exaggerated angle or vibration or something else. The play you demonstrate is including the differential. The clicking when you accelerate and turn is CV joints. The noises made when stationary and turning the wheel are not a typical indicator of CV joints.
Rebuilt OEM...every time will be better. I rebuild them using OEM boots and grease ~$50 per axle (2 boots and grease). They are surprisingly easy to do. A little messy but easy. Be sure to mark the parts so they go back in the same positions. If the joint had been torn for some time I will pull an intact one from the salvage yard and rebuild it over buying a "new" CV axle from the parts house. I am done with the wasted time of using the "lifetime warranty" and having my car shake like the wheels are out of balance.
First, let me say I'm not a super tuner just some old dude with a stock 03 2.4 lx. I've babied (no accidents, hitting the curb, etc.) the car since new and the axles lasted 102K miles. What does that say about factory OEM? Yea, I get it before anyone offers a snarky comment they did last 19 years and 102 but I can't justify paying $1K for new OEM and haven't thought about reman OEMs. If aftermarket new lasts
Swear by Raxles, If your not mechanically inclined and cant rebuilt the axles (not that hard to accomplish) then Raxles is next best. I have a set on my 88 Civic and 87 CRX with a B17 and never had a problem with them 10+ years in.
Hey Milan. So I was driving down highway 11 passing by Barrie last night when a clean 240 passed. But it took me a few seconds to realize that it had to be your old 240. Sake colour, same rims, same dark tint and same exhaust. Sadly didn't get the chance to ask the driver if they bought it off of you
Hey Andy, that was 100% him.. There aren't many people with the same colour, wheels, ride height, tint, and all that in Ontario. A Silver moss 240 is stupid rare enough, let alone mentioning the same mods. The guy that bought the car from me is named Scott, super nice guy!! 👍
Nice vids man, I just wanted to ask you something. At about 2:20 when you jacked up one side of the vehicle and turned the wheel to show it would turn you said there was play from the CV axle. Is that the true cause? It seems the play would be from inside the differential instead, correct me if I am wrong. My 8th gen does the same thing and always wondered why.
I believe you are right .I replaced my drivers side for 77 doesn't have that absorber in it ,that is where mine broke and they said it collects moister there and rusts That's exactly what happened to mine.No problem now
I noticed that you are lowered. After the install of new cv axles. Did the noise returned? Im curious because after i lowered my ride with the coilovers these noises like you had were happening. To also say, that i had the oreillys cv axles which are not so balance i heard. Id like to stay lowered but not sure if i should raise the car again to stop the noise or should i replace for a better cv axles like you have. Thanks for any help!
Best way to go is REBUILD YOUR ORIGINAL AXLES.... remove them..take the boots off..take the spider bearing off...take the CV joint off... remove the 6 balls and cage from the CV joint...clean everything immaculate with gasoline..and only then take them to a local CV axle rebuilder and tell them to go up 1 step on the balls in the joint and cage and also go up one step on the spider bearings and cup ....don't grease anything...no boots...just do the work ...then go pick them up and check there work..it will no doubt be perfect as they do 100's every month and there's no way to cut corners as you will pick up with no grease no boots...this will cost about 150 bucks...75 each axle...then when you go to pick them up and you inspect them tell them you change your mind and you want them to boot/grease them too...that's another 100 buck 50 each axle ..for 250 bucks you got a set that will last you many years
How come there are so many problems with CV-shafts? I have had a lot of cars, Volvos, Saabs, BMWs, Opels, Toyotas, Mazdas, Peugeots and VWs. Been driving them up to between 100000 to 20000 miles (160000 - 320000 km) before selling them on. Only once I had to replace an CV-joint and that was an Mazda 323 with a torn CV boot that had about 80000 miles on it. And I can tell you that where I live some of the roads are really bad and so are the winters.
I know this video is old but now honda dealers want 700-1000 for ONE Axle. 2019 civic si axle started to fail and make noise at 30k and im forced to replace with a cheap aftermarket axle that doesnt have the dampening part like OEM does.
Steve Gunderson. I use two inexpensive plastic cutting boards placed under each front tire when doing work that requires turning the wheels side to side.
the dampener isnt nessecarily a godsend. they are known for holding water and causing the axle to break right at the dampener, thats why a lot of the aftermarket ones dont have it
I'm not familiar with your Accord, but does it have a cross-member for a engine mount? Is it a solid rubber mount? Use a solid rubber mount on the cross member with stock OEM for the side, it will give your axle a fighting chance for hard driving.
Well my factory axel broke in half just wear the absorber is They said it collects moisture there and rusts out .I just replaced mine 77 dollars we will see Runs perfect so far
You can’t buy a cheaper aftermarket axle and expect it to perform as well as, or better than, oem if your looking for a performance application. In other words, if your going to slam your car around (hammering it off the line, running up the rpms, and throwing it into the curves, etc.) a cheaper part isn’t going to be able to take the abuse. This same brand of cheaper axle may have done fine and lasted forever is an older car with less horsepower where the owner “nursed it along” . The cheap axle may last the life of grandma’s 1995 Ford Escort sedan but less than six months under a 22 year old’s Mustang GT. The side by side compare between the axles coming out and the new axle going in only proved that the old axle was worn. My questions are: 1. Did the cheaper axle have play in it when it was installed? 2. What were the typical driving habits that the axles were exposed to? Yes, you get what you pay for but you also need to consider what you want the part to do for you.
I'm getting a clicking noise on my 08 accord when I move my steering wheel back and forth, however when you start the car it goes away. Do you think this is the axles?
Better make sure it's not tie rods or ball joints too. Any of them can cause big problems if they come loose including the CV if it gets hung on something though but the other two you're really looking for a big time accident. Be a good idea to have everything in the front including wheel bearings checked out.
2:20. You get that amount of play in any vehicle's drivetrain. A little in the axle splines, plus a little in the differential gears, then the gears in the transmission have a little backlash, and then your clutch spline will have some as well, plus perhaps a small amount in the clutch disc springs. Add all that up, and you're going to get about that much in any car. An automatic transmission with the parking pawl closer to the final drive may have a bit less.
milanmastracci so the function of the c-clip is not a safety measure to gix the axle inside the case and not allow it to disengage and get lose? (Im a greenhorn and dont know )
Heres a cheaper fix for you, buy your cv axles at a junkyard most likely they will be crappy clean out the grease and the bearings put in new boots tighten them up and install em try to also find out where the car was hit so you know which axles are beyond repair and which are good.
Did you ever have the axle vibration issues some 8th gen coupe owners get after lowering your car? Or is that a something only the V6 guys get? I have the 2.4 like you do, been paranoid about lowering it but man it needs it badly.
I've heard alot of guys run into that problem if you've owned axles for a long time, and then change the ride height of your car. I'm yet to experience that problem
I own a stock 09 Accord sedan V6 with 82k miles and i am currently experiencing axle vibrations above 50mph. I had my stock wheels balanced and it didn't fix the vibration, so its not a tire balance issue. It all started when i installed 19" wheels off a 16-17 Accord sport on my Accord. I believe the extra mass and weight of the 19" wheels killed both axles in the inner joints. I work in a body shop so i do get a discount on oem parts, but dam even with my discount both OEM Honda axles still costs me $900!....... That is also not including the half/intermediate shaft on the passenger side, which costs $250...
Guys guys guys. If front wheel driven car gets lowered, the engine must be raised the equal amount. That way angles remain the same. Often times there is no room to raise the engine enough, but even little bit helps. Like 3/8” or so.
I agree...I just bought OEM Honda CV Axles for the Oddysey, $220 a piece, not tax, and free shiping! Pepboys installed both sides for $275 plus tax. No more clicking noises nor vibrations from 50-60 mph. God is good!
The accord is clean, but you need to paint the wheels black or a gold. What’s your wheel setup/specs? I have a 2012 accord and I would like to know, thanks.
You are exaggerating. There are many people (myself included) don't have a problem with aftermarket axles, at a fraction of the cost. You are either unlucky or picked a garbage brand (such as Cardone). That rubber damper? don't be too excited about that. It's a leading cause of rotting your axle in half. Just google it you will know.
Hopefully someone reads this and help me out. I recently upgraded my struts In May 2023. I never had any vibrations or rubbing with my old OEM AV axels with the NEW struts in. Recently couple weeks ago I had auto shop changed out my CV axels because the driver side had tons of play like hella play like loosey-goosey type of play. Now that they are in I’m getting some type of vibration/rubbing feeling and those are aftermarket CvV has anyone had the same issue if so help a brotha out 😎✌🏽
I wish I've seen your video before buying some cheap aftermarkt parts for mine 07 Accord. Front upper sway bars and two shock absorber. I'm upset after the money lost
Do not buy any axles from Stockwise or ProStock auto. They might also go by CARIO at 330 North Midland Avenue NJ. The axle we ordered from mfg CSP was wrong, it had a smaller diameter spline than the 2001 A4 had. We sent back the incorrect part and they send us back the same box we sent them. CSP had packaged the part wrong. Parts house refused to fix or refund. We got the wrong part from CSP from two different parts suppliers, had to specify a different manufacture.
I'm in my 60s and I love when I see young guys not afraid to get their hands dirty. Not enough of that going on these days- much respect your way for sure. Good job showing the differences. The rubber 'balancer' is also known as a 'frequency dampener' - and yes- the cheap sub
I recently bought an axle from Raxles, but I don't plan to buy from them again. Total cost with taxes and two way shipping for driver side axle was $326. Keep in mind, that if I did not have an OEM axle that looks good (not rusty) to return to them, I would have been hit with a core charge of about $75. If I didn't have my OEM axle, I would have paid about $375 for an axle. That's not the end. So four months later I'm getting this vibration and I pulled the axle from Raxles and the outer joint is binding, so that's a damaged joint. Yes, lifetime warranty, but they're going to want $60 for a replacement (I gotta pay for two way shipping). At this point if I want a good axle, my total will be $386 ($326+$60). Keep in mind, I am installing the axle myself, otherwise I'd have to pay a mechanic to swap the axles. It's been frustrating to say the least. I recently bought a good used OEM axle for my TSX on eBay for $60 and I am rebuilding it myself. Wish me luck.
How did the rebuild go? Starting to look for cv axles for my tl but I'm thinking just going to the stealership
@@flacko001 The rebuild was challenging because one of the joints of the used axle I got from ebay was binding and stuck. Luckily I had another exact same joint from an OEM axle I pulled from the salvage yard a year earlier. I bought the boot kit from the dealer and got the job done. The rebuilt axle has been good for 2+years so far. It's a lot of work to rebuild. A cheaper alternative that I am willing to try next time is an axle from Insane Shafts. They make axles for racing applications, so they should be solid to say the least. I recorded myself doing the axle rebuild but I never had the chance to make the video for youtube. It's on my list of videos to make, I should get it done around Summer this year.
In my experience:
Aftermarket axles will often have different construction, such as hollow shaft tubing and lack of rubber balance weight. They're often not balanced well and will cause vibration at high vehicle speeds. They're more prone to rust breakage since they're usually inferior metal and sometimes hollow. They usually have cheap grease and poor heat treatment of the bearing surfaces.
Reman axles don't last long because of how they refurb them. The cheap way is to machine the bearing surfaces in the joints that are worn and galled up, and fit oversize bearings. The damage and the process of milling that damaged surface smooth removes the factory case hardening which is often not replaced by a second round of heat treating. If it is treated, it may not be a high quality deep hardening. The soft surface gets worn and hammered by use when it's reinstalled regardless of grease or driving style. You'll have high quality shafts and joint cups and splines, but those soft bearing surfaces and replacement bearings are not up to the task of lasting for a long time. It's deceiving!
I personally try to buy low mileage, rust-free used axles from a junk yard. You'll get a factory OE axle that has not been molested, and if the car was simply rear ended or T boned, the risk of axle damage is very minimal.
If you have to remove the axle ans the vehicle has over 50k miles, replace the axle shaft seal in the transaxle case as insurance.
That is true with most cheaper aftermarket axles. The thing about Raxles Axles is that they don't reuse or remanufacture the old bearings and joints, they will replace with them BRAND NEW ones which makes their quality to top notch. The price does somewhat reflect it, however quality parts carry a higher price tag. So far though, they're well worth it.
@@milanmastracci Excellent. You get what you pay for with CV axles. Same goes for starters, alternators, calipers, and compressors. If you buy the low tier remans, they are probably DOA. It hurts to shell out for premium parts but you'll only pay for it once.
@@milanmastracci hey brow. Whats the website that you buy those raxles cv axle from? I'm hearing some sound coming from my front end but not when I'm turning,only when I'm moving off. I need two.
The whole reason I need to replace my OEM axle at only 75k miles is due to poor build quality. I don't really see any downside to going cheap on the replacement. $545 for a new OEM axle vs $67 for aftermarket.
@@nodak81when they break in 30k miles and you have to redo the job you will look back and wish you went with oe
Another method is to get steel cable or non stretch rope. Tie a loop in them that fits in behind the axle yoke. Feed a length of the cable out about 3 foot past the wheel arch. Tie the outboard end to a sledgehammer or similar. Then do your best tiger woods impression and give it a little swing and boom. Out she pops.
There is an advantage to new aftermarket axles that I didn't see in the top 20 comments. You will notice that there is a rubber weight on remanufactured axles, that is a dampener to make up for the axle not being balanced. With new aftermarket axles they are built as a balanced unit and don't need the dampener.
That said, you have lowered your Honda, and you are putting NON-OEM stress on your CV joints. When a car is higher the CV shaft extends to a relaxed position. When your car is lowered the joint is compressed, jamming it and limiting mobility. You need shorter axles. The "high quality axle" will fail if it is the stock length. In other words expect them to last about the same as the "cheap" axles.
OEM axles have the dampeners on them, and they are also built as balanced units.
I like your trick of gently prying on the CV joint while tapping it laterally. I've always just pried all around the joint until it pops out but I will try your method next time. Your presentation and narration are great.
Raxles are the best. I have used four sets on various cars and never had a problem. The problem with the aftermarket axles is that they re-grind the surfaces for the balls that allow the CV joints to flex. Once they grind, they remove the heat-treated hardening of the bearing surfaces that the balls glide on. While they are still steel, they are no longer hardened steel and they will wear about 10 times faster than CV joints with hardened surfaces. Raxles only uses newly manufactured CV joints that are all new hardened steel. About the only thing you get on a Raxles axle that is not new is the axle shaft itself. These shafts are all checked for straightness and straightened if needed.
I used Raxle on my 2002 wrx
Very happy with price and customer service. That was about 2 years ago so around. 15,000 miles with no issues
My Raxles stayed strong for about 15 years in New York city, which is hard on everything. I guess it was around 100,000 miles. One of the boots finally ripped but I drove it for years with a ripped boot and when the Subaru died a sudden timing belt death at 240k the axles still had not started to click yet.
I have pulled the plug on remanufactured parts, including axles. Brake calipers are the only thing I will use remanufactured unless there's no other practical choice. The aftermarket new axles have treated me well over the years, but with no hot-rodding kind of use to go with them.
Honestly, I think it goes back to the old saying. You get what you pay for if you buy cheap aftermarket parts. You're going to get cheap aftermarket. Parks, sometimes you can get remanufactured. Axles, that are not very good either. Depending on who remanufactured, then and how it was done. I do like the idea of oem parts, but companies build their reputations on their work. Be careful out there. Don't be too cheap, but don't be an idiot. Either paying $600 for a brand new O. AM axle from the factory?
I had a similar issue with my wife's prius. I replaced them twice with axles from o'reilly and I kept hearing a metallic clunk at start/stop. Turns out the diameter of the spline was 1mm smaller than stock. They double checked the part number and swore they were the right ones. Replaced with OEM ($$ ouch $$) and the noise is gone.
What I learned from fixing cars since high school is your best bet is always OEM, after that you can go with used oem from junkyard or salvage yard, last is rebuilt oem.
Has anything changed yet?
@@robmendoza6210 i would say performance aftermarket is your second bet, basically premium racing parts.
RAXELS are the best.I Just did my daughters 2012 Audi Q5 axles. Raxels customer service is excellent. Any questions on the job your are doing is answered by Marty, no hurry, no problem. This job was a piece of cake.
This is a common problem with Hondas. The aftermarket axles will give you problems, headaches, and waste your time and money. I've done it myself, haha. I noticed the aftermarket axles don't come with that rubber damper in the middle of the shaft. You can rebuild the axle yourself with OEM axles from the salvage yard and OEM boot kit, but it is a messy job and requires persistence and band clamp tools, I've done it and don't recommend it for a noob. Currently, my driver side axle needs replacement, I'm going to give Raxles a try.
How were raxles ? I’m going to replace my Axles but don’t wanna buy Duralast or really any other aftermarket brand except raxles if I see more good reviews
@@gioo2961 They were expensive for what you get. I ended up with an axle that is binding at one of the joints. Car was vibrating on the side the Raxle axle was put in. I took it off and the vibrations went away. I have to send it back to them for repair but I need to pay for shipping to send it back. They need the core of your OEM axle or they give you a core charge. Why? Because they reuse the OEM axle core and add their aftermarket parts to it and sell it back out to other ppl. They don't use OEM CV joints and they don't use OEM dampers. I wouldn't buy from them again. Next time I plan to try Insane Shafts which makes racing application axles which should be more than adequate for normal driving. I ended up rebuilding my own OEM axle with parts from OEM axles that I pulled from the same car at the salvage yard. I know how to identify an OEM axle so it was easy for me to find OEM axles at the salvage yard. You can also find used OEM axles on eBay. I bought one on Ebay and one CV joint was binding, so only half the axle was usable but it was still worth it for the parts.
@@ChavezDIY Thank you for taking the time to respond! I think im gonna pick up the 500HP axles off "insane axles" a big fear of mine is the "Raxles" brand being dishonest when they claim to use OEM parts Thanks again and i will let you kniow what i end up doing.
Raxles have been excellent for me. Have installed them on several Subarus and they were great.
I also had a great experience with raxles. Would use them again but I haven’t needed to !
How much were yours,? I bought a VW mk4 and it has Raxles, they are Red and the motor is pushing around 340whp at 30psi boost but one of my boots is broke
@@rustysmith-kc6ys I think they were about $170 all in, but can't really remember. It was a while ago and I sold the car a couple of years ago so don't have the records. I remember it was more than the $100 Chinesium versions and quite a bit less less than the OEM. They were top quality and worked perfectly. I would not hesitate to buy them again. Marty at Raxles was great to deal with.
One should always be ready to plug the transmission when pulling out a half shaft! Or end up with transmission fluid all over the ground! Find a bottle cap the same size as your opening! Also, With the half shaft out, That would be the perfect time to lube your inner race & also grease your output shaft! Now for those in the northeast, use a cookie wheel on a die grinder & clean up the rust or oxidation on the hub & inner part of the wheel. Good time to inspect the brakes & lube the guides! I also use my 90 degree die grinder to clean up my brake guides & etc. Always grease the axle where it pushes threw the hub & rotor to prevent it from rusting/oxidizing!
I've never checked axles the way he did. Up down motion on inner joint is normal. Slam the nut home with the wheels off with an impact gun is fine. One last thing, a cracking noise coming from either side with the brake applied and giving it gentle gas usually indicates a loose axle nut. You get it on a reverse to drive typically in a parking lot maneuver.
The more modern Honda and Acura's eat axles due to their power and weight. Yes a cheap aftermarket axle will work well on a Civic, Corolla, Mirage, Escort, Elantra etc but when you double or triple the horsepower output the Chinese parts are not up to the task. I believe the problem is they use the same Rzeppa joint not considering the power output of the application. Additionally aftermarket parts suppliers realize people are not keeping a used car that long and have adjusted quality accordingly.
Excellent information, thank you
Raxles are awesome! I put a set on my Subaru at about 100,000 Miles(about 161,000Km for the Canadians) 100,000 miles later and many icy winters I noticed a rubber boot was ripped. I just continued to drive it with a ripped boot up to almost a quarter million miles. The car finally bit the dust but the Raxles were still working fine even with a ripped boot.
What brand and where did you get your rebuilt axles? Thanks for any response. I'm looking for some for my Subaru outback right now. Oh I see there's a company called Raxles now. I assumed that was a short way of saying rebuilt. My bad
@@jackle842000 I would say if you think you have a year or more to drive your car, it is worth the extra price of Raxles but still way cheaper than the stealership. As I found out changing the life time warranty $60 rebuilds found at your everyday auto parts store wastes a lot of time because you have to change them every 6 month to a few years. Raxles stands behind their axles for life. The only problem is the time lost when you have to remove and ship, which I never had to do.
Well, I think there are a lot of people waiting for a follow up on your purchase.
maybe that's why he has the Mini?
Thanks bro..I have a same problem with my Honda civic 13 the original axle cost 340$ but I found same axle in Amazon for 120$ thank you again for open my mind...
Since you don’t know. A pro tip to holding your wheel and torqueing the axle nut PUT A THICK SCREW DRIVER IN THE ROTOR it’ll stop against the brake caliper 🤦🏼♂️
Yep. I thought that would be one of his options. I learned it last week. I'm replacing the passenger side axle this week on my 06 MDX. The OEM lasted 14 years. I need to decide between OEM or Raxle. OEM with core is $280.
Don't forget to be careful installing the axle..... If your transmission seal gets damage your car is going to leak transmission oil like crazy
Love Raxles, Marty is a great guy and makes a quality product👍 Pay once, cry once.
You can always jam a screwdriver in one of the disc vents to stop the axle from spinning when you tighten the axle nut
What if your screw driver doesnt have vents?
Thats how i did my honda
I bought a rebuilt OE axle for my Honda at a major parts house and it did not last long. I then went with an import axle (China). We’ll see how long that lasts, but it is working well. I question the rebuilt ones because I don’t know what they reused and what they replaced. I think it’s a crapshoot. OE new is best of course, but $$.
1) oem new (about 500 each if I recall)
2) Raxles USA remanufactured axles with new CV ends, they use good cores only(They won't accept any rust damaged shafts for cores) and give lifetime warranty.(about 275)
3) oem from reputable salvage yard(such as LKQ) with low miles and 1 year warranty.(Cheapest option, I paid $50 for an axle with less than 40k on it)
4) Actually forget #4 - don't buy any aftermarket chinese junk or remans from auto parts chain.
Great Job Milan, I think now I know why my car is making a noise when I turn.
Why's that?
milanmastracci Because whe I turn my wheel to the left side especially when I start to drive I feel some bump/low noise, and it might be from the Axles .
can use the folding jack and a bit of chain looped around the socket to pull out the differential side socket, most of the time ya have to use a arc welder and melt the axle nut off of the wheel hub side.
From someone that road races FWD Hondas, I can destroy a parts-store axle in 20 minutes of racing. OEM Honda axles are extremely hard to beat for quality, however they are hard to find and you need to know what you are doing if you are going to rebuild them yourself. I hoard RSX axles for good reasons!
This is actually a really well made video, more often than not any automotive tutorial will be poorly made. But I actually enjoyed the video,
ya except he is very poorly educated on what he is repairing
it moves inside your gearbox....
With the CV axle without the dynamic damper did you experience vibration during acceleration? Did the damper make any difference?
That is what happens with most do it yourselfers. Sometimes you have to know a little bit to know the difference between a part that works, and a part that works well.
Raxel is a real small business. Marty wants you to call him. He does not have sales people, no customer service, no online form or shopping cart to order an axel, no inventory. If you need a raxel axel soon, forget about it.
Wow! When did this become a thing? When I was your age we always went oem rebuilds not new or cheap knockoffs. Ok I lied I’m older than that we actually had to rebuild them ourselves for awhile as there was no cores yet. Lol
I used trakmotive axles with lifetime warranty and the boots are crap quality but axle itself is solid.
In Finland, there is a saying: "A poor person cannot afford to cheap out". Ie. buy a high quality (OEM) item instead of a cheapo part, as you more often than not will end up spending more money by buying the same thing multiple times.
depends, in the US there is lots of options for cheapo parts that will get the job done and not spend exorbitant amounts that some oem parts demand
Got a left Drive Shaft replacement 2 months ago on a 2002 Volvo S80:
I bought this aftermarket part from this store. It is hard to find drive shaft for my volvo, because It equipped with the GM 4T65EV transmission. But finally I found on polar parts website.
On the left side the transmission oil started to leak.... Maybe old seal...
OK Then we replaced the SEAL:
I bought VOLVO ORIGINAL seal...
After 1 month, It started to leak AGAIN.
What can cause it?
- Can a seal installed incorrectly? badly?
- Can an aftermarket drive shaft misfits and cause transmission oil leaks?
I am really tired, spent a lot money on this drive the car back every time to repair center.
Hi what brands have failed on you so far? And how long did each last for? I got a quote from raxle and the cost a good chunk of my 2005 Honda element...what do you recommend? Thanks
Did you have any vibration when accelerating?
While driving?
The Raxles are obviously the best of you have the money .. but I've had zero issues with the *cardone and cardone select* axles if you are looking for a cheaper alternative. They offer new ones and rebuilt OEM. I have bought both. I had the new ones on my Maxima for 150k and had zero issues and currently have on my G with zero issues at 20k and come with a lifetime warranty I believe
I've gone with Cardones and they began to click in a matter of a few weeks
Cardone is low quality garbage.
Well made video, but I can't stop talkking back at the video. If you are chewing through that many CV joints, you have an issue with an exaggerated angle or vibration or something else. The play you demonstrate is including the differential. The clicking when you accelerate and turn is CV joints. The noises made when stationary and turning the wheel are not a typical indicator of CV joints.
I think what it is is it's the quality of the boot what makes the difference they say that a boot can last as long as the car
Accords have the worst OEM axles in its class along with power steering system issues. But other than that extremely reliable.
sometimes the CV boots don't tare but the CV knocks and clicks and my car is stock
Rebuilt OEM...every time will be better.
I rebuild them using OEM boots and grease ~$50 per axle (2 boots and grease). They are surprisingly easy to do. A little messy but easy. Be sure to mark the parts so they go back in the same positions.
If the joint had been torn for some time I will pull an intact one from the salvage yard and rebuild it over buying a "new" CV axle from the parts house.
I am done with the wasted time of using the "lifetime warranty" and having my car shake like the wheels are out of balance.
I have exact same issue but with my Nissan Titan , 5 axles aftermarket in one year , the last one last only 1 month .....crazy
Patiently waiting for the mini videos…
Patiently waiting for it to get cold so I can park the Z and only work on the Mini..
First, let me say I'm not a super tuner just some old dude with a stock 03 2.4 lx. I've babied (no accidents, hitting the curb, etc.) the car since new and the axles lasted 102K miles. What does that say about factory OEM? Yea, I get it before anyone offers a snarky comment they did last 19 years and 102 but I can't justify paying $1K for new OEM and haven't thought about reman OEMs. If aftermarket new lasts
yep yep the cheap china made cvs I bought wore out in 20,000 miles 😆😆😆😆😆soo back to OEM for me
How have the Raxles held up?
I have raxles on my Acura TL, they're amazing.
That was the softest NEW axle nut I’ve ever seen
Swear by Raxles, If your not mechanically inclined and cant rebuilt the axles (not that hard to accomplish) then Raxles is next best. I have a set on my 88 Civic and 87 CRX with a B17 and never had a problem with them 10+ years in.
Hey Milan. So I was driving down highway 11 passing by Barrie last night when a clean 240 passed. But it took me a few seconds to realize that it had to be your old 240. Sake colour, same rims, same dark tint and same exhaust. Sadly didn't get the chance to ask the driver if they bought it off of you
Hey Andy, that was 100% him.. There aren't many people with the same colour, wheels, ride height, tint, and all that in Ontario. A Silver moss 240 is stupid rare enough, let alone mentioning the same mods. The guy that bought the car from me is named Scott, super nice guy!! 👍
Nice vids man, I just wanted to ask you something. At about 2:20 when you jacked up one side of the vehicle and turned the wheel to show it would turn you said there was play from the CV axle. Is that the true cause? It seems the play would be from inside the differential instead, correct me if I am wrong. My 8th gen does the same thing and always wondered why.
I replaced 3 pairs of front axles on my integra gsr that I bought them from NAPA.
How long did your reman'd axles last? Is it possible that your suspension mods are stressing the axle and causing premature wear?
I believe you are right .I replaced my drivers side for 77 doesn't have that absorber in it ,that is where mine broke and they said it collects moister there and rusts That's exactly what happened to mine.No problem now
@@skatman3872 what brand and from where?
@@hectorvanegas11 my axel lasted 180,000 miles Bought a new one at advanced auto No problems so far
Got the brand name?
@@hectorvanegas11 I thru the box away It was a blue box yellow writing on .But ask advanced auto parts was 77 bucks
I noticed that you are lowered. After the install of new cv axles. Did the noise returned? Im curious because after i lowered my ride with the coilovers these noises like you had were happening. To also say, that i had the oreillys cv axles which are not so balance i heard. Id like to stay lowered but not sure if i should raise the car again to stop the noise or should i replace for a better cv axles like you have. Thanks for any help!
Best way to go is REBUILD YOUR ORIGINAL AXLES.... remove them..take the boots off..take the spider bearing off...take the CV joint off... remove the 6 balls and cage from the CV joint...clean everything immaculate with gasoline..and only then take them to a local CV axle rebuilder and tell them to go up 1 step on the balls in the joint and cage and also go up one step on the spider bearings and cup ....don't grease anything...no boots...just do the work ...then go pick them up and check there work..it will no doubt be perfect as they do 100's every month and there's no way to cut corners as you will pick up with no grease no boots...this will cost about 150 bucks...75 each axle...then when you go to pick them up and you inspect them tell them you change your mind and you want them to boot/grease them too...that's another 100 buck 50 each axle ..for 250 bucks you got a set that will last you many years
How come there are so many problems with CV-shafts? I have had a lot of cars, Volvos, Saabs, BMWs, Opels, Toyotas, Mazdas, Peugeots and VWs. Been driving them up to between 100000 to 20000 miles (160000 - 320000 km) before selling them on. Only once I had to replace an CV-joint and that was an Mazda 323 with a torn CV boot that had about 80000 miles on it. And I can tell you that where I live some of the roads are really bad and so are the winters.
I know this video is old but now honda dealers want 700-1000 for ONE Axle. 2019 civic si axle started to fail and make noise at 30k and im forced to replace with a cheap aftermarket axle that doesnt have the dampening part like OEM does.
the way the inner axle housing is wobbling it looks like your differential bearings are worn out..
never turn the steering when unless the car is moving, very hard on power steering components
Steve Gunderson. I use two inexpensive plastic cutting boards placed under each front tire when doing work that requires turning the wheels side to side.
@@lindathomas5750 Even that is extra fancy, you can just use newspaper.
ya , your could not be MORE wrong on you statment , educate yourself before commenting
the dampener isnt nessecarily a godsend. they are known for holding water and causing the axle to break right at the dampener, thats why a lot of the aftermarket ones dont have it
Modified cars will usually bring you a lot of problems .. therefore the warranty on parts won’t be covered ..
I'm not familiar with your Accord, but does it have a cross-member for a engine mount? Is it a solid rubber mount? Use a solid rubber mount on the cross member with stock OEM for the side, it will give your axle a fighting chance for hard driving.
Well my factory axel broke in half just wear the absorber is They said it collects moisture there and rusts out .I just replaced mine 77 dollars we will see Runs perfect so far
great job! Experiencing road vibration and feel it in the steering wheel of my 2004 Honda Civic EX Coupe. Maybe I have a starting point. Thanks.
You can’t buy a cheaper aftermarket axle and expect it to perform as well as, or better than, oem if your looking for a performance application. In other words, if your going to slam your car around (hammering it off the line, running up the rpms, and throwing it into the curves, etc.) a cheaper part isn’t going to be able to take the abuse. This same brand of cheaper axle may have done fine and lasted forever is an older car with less horsepower where the owner “nursed it along” . The cheap axle may last the life of grandma’s 1995 Ford Escort sedan but less than six months under a 22 year old’s Mustang GT. The side by side compare between the axles coming out and the new axle going in only proved that the old axle was worn. My questions are: 1. Did the cheaper axle have play in it when it was installed? 2. What were the typical driving habits that the axles were exposed to? Yes, you get what you pay for but you also need to consider what you want the part to do for you.
I'm getting a clicking noise on my 08 accord when I move my steering wheel back and forth, however when you start the car it goes away. Do you think this is the axles?
Better make sure it's not tie rods or ball joints too. Any of them can cause big problems if they come loose including the CV if it gets hung on something though but the other two you're really looking for a big time accident. Be a good idea to have everything in the front including wheel bearings checked out.
It might be getting ready to break in half on drivers side where absorber is that's what my 07 did just fixed it
That rubber do-nut is not a balance item, it's a vibration damper
2:20. You get that amount of play in any vehicle's drivetrain. A little in the axle splines, plus a little in the differential gears, then the gears in the transmission have a little backlash, and then your clutch spline will have some as well, plus perhaps a small amount in the clutch disc springs. Add all that up, and you're going to get about that much in any car. An automatic transmission with the parking pawl closer to the final drive may have a bit less.
I have zero issues at all with cheap ones on my crv
What about the c-clips at the end of the axles? Are you not going to stick them back in?
So you now have 2 old c-clips dangling inside rabdomly
When you remove your old axle, the old c-clip will come with it. When you install the new axle, a new c-clip is pre-installed on it
milanmastracci so the function of the c-clip is not a safety measure to gix the axle inside the case and not allow it to disengage and get lose?
(Im a greenhorn and dont know )
Looks like you got more problems than axles with all that mess leaking everywhere smh.
Who tf cares bro your not the one who has to clean it up…he is 👀
Heres a cheaper fix for you, buy your cv axles at a junkyard most likely they will be crappy clean out the grease and the bearings put in new boots tighten them up and install em try to also find out where the car was hit so you know which axles are beyond repair and which are good.
Did you ever have the axle vibration issues some 8th gen coupe owners get after lowering your car? Or is that a something only the V6 guys get? I have the 2.4 like you do, been paranoid about lowering it but man it needs it badly.
I've heard alot of guys run into that problem if you've owned axles for a long time, and then change the ride height of your car. I'm yet to experience that problem
I own a stock 09 Accord sedan V6 with 82k miles and i am currently experiencing axle vibrations above 50mph. I had my stock wheels balanced and it didn't fix the vibration, so its not a tire balance issue. It all started when i installed 19" wheels off a 16-17 Accord sport on my Accord. I believe the extra mass and weight of the 19" wheels killed both axles in the inner joints. I work in a body shop so i do get a discount on oem parts, but dam even with my discount both OEM Honda axles still costs me $900!....... That is also not including the half/intermediate shaft on the passenger side, which costs $250...
Guys guys guys. If front wheel driven car gets lowered, the engine must be raised the equal amount. That way angles remain the same. Often times there is no room to raise the engine enough, but even little bit helps. Like 3/8” or so.
Fender liner is not looking typical milanmastracci spotless. just sayin'
#DailyDriven
Soooo did they lasted a long time or not at all?
I search for remans from a reputable dealer. I also know when I cannot do the job and have to take the car in.
You cant beat real Honda parts. They do cost more, but as you saw in the long run the aftermarket fail and you end up replacing it several times over.
Well, I will keep you guys up to date if it works long term or not :)
I agree...I just bought OEM Honda CV Axles for the Oddysey, $220 a piece, not tax, and free shiping! Pepboys installed both sides for $275 plus tax. No more clicking noises nor vibrations from 50-60 mph. God is good!
@@savedby_grace6110Hi, from where did you buy the OEM Honda axle and what year is your Odyssey
So I know I need new axles on my car. But I have a whistling noise when I turn left. What you think is wrong?
Sucks that the OEM for the accord are that expensive. They were
Hey man, i have a 2002 D17A2 civic and i need a set of those Raxle stuff. They made cv axle for that year civic? I live in the U.S.
The typical you get what you pay for. What about good used?
Lol ain't you the dude who used sandpaper to polish your valves?
I was just thinking that lmao
How about having the OEM parts rebuilt?
I Don’t have very many money, so I'm gonna put cheap axles in, while I replace the boot on the OEMs. Fukn Ford, my four Chryslers never tore a boot.
The accord is clean, but you need to paint the wheels black or a gold. What’s your wheel setup/specs? I have a 2012 accord and I would like to know, thanks.
They're 18x8+18 up front and 18x8.5+8 in the rear. I will be changing them up come summer time :)
milanmastracci thanks brother, you’re videos are very helpful
You are exaggerating. There are many people (myself included) don't have a problem with aftermarket axles, at a fraction of the cost. You are either unlucky or picked a garbage brand (such as Cardone). That rubber damper? don't be too excited about that. It's a leading cause of rotting your axle in half. Just google it you will know.
Enjoyed your video. 👍
Where can I buy these Axles at
Please take the nissan center cap on those wheels lol
Lol 😂 😂😂 😂
Hopefully someone reads this and help me out. I recently upgraded my struts In May 2023. I never had any vibrations or rubbing with my old OEM AV axels with the NEW struts in. Recently couple weeks ago I had auto shop changed out my CV axels because the driver side had tons of play like hella play like loosey-goosey type of play. Now that they are in I’m getting some type of vibration/rubbing feeling and those are aftermarket CvV has anyone had the same issue if so help a brotha out 😎✌🏽
Reman stuff is or should be just as good as new
How are the raxle brand axles holding up?
Have these axles failed you yet?
Nice job Milan 👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks brother!! 👊
I wish I've seen your video before buying some cheap aftermarkt parts for mine 07 Accord. Front upper sway bars and two shock absorber. I'm upset after the money lost
Does transmission fluid spill out from the drivers side axle?
you didn't try to repacked first before you change?
Cool gum dispenser at 1:40
Do not buy any axles from Stockwise or ProStock auto. They might also go by CARIO at 330 North Midland Avenue NJ. The axle we ordered from mfg CSP was wrong, it had a smaller diameter spline than the 2001 A4 had. We sent back the incorrect part and they send us back the same box we sent them. CSP had packaged the part wrong. Parts house refused to fix or refund. We got the wrong part from CSP from two different parts suppliers, had to specify a different manufacture.