Forgot about the spring that connects between governor arm and the throttle arm controlled by the throttle cable. That spring allows the governor to be controlled by the throttle plate and its position via spring tension.
Some others have commented about the long thin spring. Here is part of my response from below: "4) There is this super thin spring that runs under the rod that connects the governor to the throttle plate which I didn't mention in the video. Re-watch starting at time stamp 3:28, When you get to time stamp 3:47 you can barely see the spring under the rod when I manually move the throttle plate by pushing on the governor. I think that spring is MANDATORY for the governor to function properly." I'm going to pin your comment at the top so everyone will see it first. Thanks, Clay.
@@claypotter378 the light spring that goes between the governor arm and the carb throttle arm within the same holes as the actual rod serves a purpose of keeping the rod from falling out of its connection by keeping constant tension between the carb throttle plate and the governor arm. It would be a rarity for that rod to fall out but apparently the engineers had it happen during their R and D. Even it did fall out the throttle plate would return to idle by its own spring.
I rarely comment but I just bought a used replacement engine for my LT1000 when the motor exploded (check your oil before you mow) and I can understand how to attach the throttle cable to the plastic slider but I had no idea how the other parts worked and was worried it wasn't done properly. Your video explained how and why each part works so I really appreciate it.
It's nice to hear from a viewer who finds one of my videos helpful. I hope your engine swap is a success. And yes I agree, you should always check the oil before you cut. A friend's son blew up the engine in his mower; and when asked about the dry crankcase, shrugged and said, "I don't know what kind of oil it takes." To which dad replied, "When the engine is out of oil, it takes ANY KIND!"
Thank you for the information. I got a question. I had to replace the coil in my Briggs and Stratton 13.5HP after I did that there is a wire that post to connect to the coil called a kill switch does that have to be plugged up in order for it to RUN
Mr. Potter, you pulled me out of a fix! I was replacing the carb on my riding mower, and when I got to the linkage, the the choke rod fell off. I hadn't looked at it prior to that, as I thought the control end of the rod was connected to something. Just couldn't figure that one out when trying to reattach. Came in and watch your video, and voila! The rod doesn't attach there, it just gets pushed. BTW, for those of you who watch this video, My B&S is a 13.5 hp, but it's the same configuration as Mr. Potter's 17.5 hp. I'm tellin' ya, if I had a buck for every time a TH-cam video helped me do a job................ Thank you, Thank You, Thank You
Glad you found it helpful. TH-cam has pulled me out of a jam many times. If you shot a video of your fix, post a link here to help the next guy along. - Clay.
Very good video. I have a 2012ish LT2300 Set up very similar if not exactly the same. My engine keeps “surging” and was not responding to my throttle control, so I figured the linkage was off a little. Can’t wait to look so it again after seeing this.
Shoot a brief video of the problem and the repair, put it on your channel, and put a link here so others will see it. It could be a linkage problem, a carb problem, bad gas, a vacuum leak ... I always learn something watching other DIYers solve problems. Good Luck! - Clay.
Great video! Was working on the neighbor's LT1000 and needed some guidance. Your video answered all of my questions - except one. What is the mechanism that returns the choke into the open position once the throttle is moved out of the choke position? I see it happening in your video, but it does not happen on the neighbor's lawnmower. My guess is there a missing or broken spring somewhere to force the choke to return to the open position, but I can't find a reference drawing showing that. Any ideas what the issue might be? Thanks.
I'm pretty sure the choke IS spring-loaded open. I can't remember how, and it's not my mower. I will look and post the answer, but it will be a few days.
I've moved my repair videos to another TH-cam channel called "The Hapless Handyman". There are a couple more LT1000 videos in the series. I haven't posted anything new recently, but those older videos still get a lot of views. Happy Holidays! - Clay.
My Governor does not move at all when choke linkage goes back. Plus the choke linkage does not go back in place after I pull back on it. Plus that tiny copper wire that goes on top of the carb and to Governor arm is gone. Any thoughts?
Shoot a quick video showing the problem and post it on your channel. Then put a link here. Someone will be able to answer your question. I know it's not in keeping with your channel subject matter, but you can always take ii down after you make the fix.
@@claypotter378 so the choke link should be. That’s the easily identifiable long U going into a s slot that the choke arm hits. You did a good job showing it. Yours springs back in place mine does not
My wife fixed the spring thing and although I put gorilla glue on top of the throttle linkage hooked end so it would stay in iplace on top of the carb it worhs again
Congrats on the fix. I've had problems with cheap aftermarket carbs too. Duct tape and J-B Weld are my go-to's. Wives that fix things? A rare commodity in today's world.
My mower is slightly different but works in the same manner. For some reason when I start the mower it immediately starts shooting WAY high in the RPM's to the point where it would blow up if not dealt with. I have to manually close the throttle to keep oxygen from getting into the engine which then shuts it off. any ideas on how to solve this?
The throttle plate (not the choke plate) should automatically open and close to regulate RPM. If it doesn't: 1) Check the idle screw (if it has one) to make sure it's not holding the throttle plate open too far. 2) Check to make sure the throttle cable is properly positioned in the cable clamp. 3) Check to make sure the throttle plate is open when the engine is off and the throttle is set to low. (it is spring-loaded open - the governor system should close it as soon as the engine is running) 4) Check to make sure the throttle plate opens and closes easily with finger pressure. The carb may be dumping too much gas into the engine and the governor system is revving the engine to burn it. Or there could be a problem with the governor system itself. Make sure the governor vane moves freely and is able to move the throttle plate without sticking. It's a spring-loaded balancing act, but will give trouble-free service once you find the problem. Good luck with the repair. Let us know what was wrong.
@@claypotter378if I understand this correctly. In the video at 4:10 the governor/throttle is closed (choke position)? 4:05 is slightly cracked open, then closed and closed again in the choke and run position?
I wasn't very clear in my explanation of how the throttle plate moves. Maybe this will help: 1) The governor does not work when the engine off, so the throttle plate will be open no matter what position the throttle is in. 2) As soon as the engine starts, the governor will push the throttle plate closed against the idle screw - or at least nearly against the idle screw. This is super important! Make sure it does or the engine will rev uncontrollably. (Like yours does.) 3) Push the throttle plate closed against the idle screw, and then back the screw out until it doesn't touch. Then screw it back in a couple of turns so it opens the throttle plate just a wee bit. You can fine tune the idle speed once the engine is running correctly. 4) There is this super thin spring that runs under the rod that connects the governor to the throttle plate which I didn't mention in the video. Re-watch starting at time stamp 3:28, When you get to time stamp 3:47 you can barely see the spring under the rod when I manually move the throttle plate by pushing on the governor. I think that spring is MANDATORY for the governor to function properly. Let us know what you find. P.S. My previous reply has some miss-statements which I have corrected.
@@claypotter378 thank you again. I’m currently waiting for a diode to arrive so I can get the mower running as I ran into another issue. I’ll use this information to the best of my ability because as I said earlier, my mower is different. I did rewatch and see the small spring/line you mentioned but my mower actually doesn’t have that. And after watching other videos of people working on the same exact mower as mine, I confirmed it’s not needed to run. I’ll give an update when I replace the diode and hopefully get it running! In case you know anything about it, my mower is the Craftsman Kohler 15.5hp 42” inch mower (CV15S)
I've only worked on one with a Kohler engine (LT2000 model?). It had two problems: Automatic fuel shut-off was stuck closed so the engine wouldn't start; and a stuck open float dumping too much gas into the engine - it ran too fast and smoked. A good carb cleaning fixed both problems. I never saw that mower again so I guess it still works. Upload a video of your repair. Maybe it will help someone else.
This is very similar to mine - and I have a stupid question. So throttling all the way up is just for starting and normal running condition is when the throttle is in the mid position where the throttle 'clicks' in place? I ask because when I try to throttle past middle position, it wants to choke and die. I've been chasing my tail trying to figure out why.
Your understanding of operation is correct: The choke plate should only be closed when the throttle is pushed all the way. When you pull the throttle back to the "click" run position, the choke should fully open. The choke plate is spring-loaded to open so it should open automatically when the throttle is moved to run. If the choke is partially or fully closed when the throttle is in run, you should be able to adjust it by moving the throttle cable back and forth in the cable clamp until its in the right place. - Clay. P.S. If your engine isn't running fast enough in the run position, it could be almost anything. I had a Troy-built tiller that wouldn't throttle up to full speed last spring. Turns out it was just a really dirty air filter. Tilling clay into powder makes a cloud of dust and the filter was totally clogged. I'm surprised it ran at all.
@@claypotter378 Thank you, very informative. So, yeah, I don't feel like it's running fast enough in that running (clicked) position. But I really have nothing to base this on, as I bought it used. I'm very good about keeping clean filter and oil. She gets the job done, so maybe I should leave well enough alone.
If the motor is running smoothly and you just want a little more RPM/hp, look into "adjusting" the governor spring. I can't go into details here - and don't go too far - but you may find your solution there. - Clay.
That mower still cuts 3/4 ac. every week. It's old so it doesn't have an hour meter, and some day it will give up the ghost; but for now it just keeps going and going and ...
Thanks. I learned a lot trying to make that video ... and I learned some more from commenters. There are some real experts out there willing to share with us Average Joe's. Good luck with your project.
The next time I have the chance, I'll look for "the tiny long spring" you mention. Is it connected to the choke plate or the throttle plate? I didn't see one, but that doesn't mean it's not there. Thanks! - Clay.
Glad it was helpful! Grass cutting season is over here in Maryland Zone 7A. It's time to start year-end maintenance and get ready for next season. - Clay.
We shred our leaves, then layer them with grass clippings and dirt in the compost bins. We add in anything else organic we can find like: kitchen scraps, dead plants, and rain gutter trash. The time we spend making compost now leads to a better garden in the spring. South Jersey is much like here, but you have a sandy component in the soil that is better than our pure clay. I have fond memories of Uncle Dewey's Outdoor BBQ on the way to and from the Jersey Shore. - Clay.
In a word, Yes. Some springs are more important than others. There are multiple springs in the throttle/governor/choke system. All work together to start the engine and regulate its speed. I've been told the long thin spring hiding below that piece of linkage is there to keep the linkage from falling out. The engine will run without it, but unpredictable things can happen if the linkage falls out while you are cutting. As a general rule, all the pieces are there because some engineer decided the cost of adding them was worth the increase in safety or performance. Making alterations to your engine is beyond the scope of this video. Safety first, performance second, efficiency third!
Very informative video explain how the throttle linkage work. Hipa supplies all kinds of small engine parts and we are looking for youtubers to work with to share more tips and trick on repairing. Are you interested in a collaboration on making a small engine repair video?
Hi! Thanks for reaching out. I'm curious how this works, but I don't know if I can be of much help. I'm migrating my repair videos to another channel called "Hapless Handyman". It has less subscribers at present but gets more views, so in the long run I think it will be better. - Clay.
Forgot about the spring that connects between governor arm and the throttle arm controlled by the throttle cable. That spring allows the governor to be controlled by the throttle plate and its position via spring tension.
Some others have commented about the long thin spring. Here is part of my response from below:
"4) There is this super thin spring that runs under the rod that connects the governor to the throttle plate which I didn't mention in the video. Re-watch starting at time stamp 3:28, When you get to time stamp 3:47 you can barely see the spring under the rod when I manually move the throttle plate by pushing on the governor. I think that spring is MANDATORY for the governor to function properly."
I'm going to pin your comment at the top so everyone will see it first. Thanks, Clay.
@@claypotter378 the light spring that goes between the governor arm and the carb throttle arm within the same holes as the actual rod serves a purpose of keeping the rod from falling out of its connection by keeping constant tension between the carb throttle plate and the governor arm.
It would be a rarity for that rod to fall out but apparently the engineers had it happen during their R and D. Even it did fall out the throttle plate would return to idle by its own spring.
Thank you for sharing additional details!
I rarely comment but I just bought a used replacement engine for my LT1000 when the motor exploded (check your oil before you mow) and I can understand how to attach the throttle cable to the plastic slider but I had no idea how the other parts worked and was worried it wasn't done properly. Your video explained how and why each part works so I really appreciate it.
It's nice to hear from a viewer who finds one of my videos helpful. I hope your engine swap is a success. And yes I agree, you should always check the oil before you cut.
A friend's son blew up the engine in his mower; and when asked about the dry crankcase, shrugged and said, "I don't know what kind of oil it takes." To which dad replied, "When the engine is out of oil, it takes ANY KIND!"
Thank you for the information. I got a question. I had to replace the coil in my Briggs and Stratton 13.5HP after I did that there is a wire that post to connect to the coil called a kill switch does that have to be plugged up in order for it to RUN
Sorry to say, but I don't know. I've never had a Briggs and Stratton coil fail. Did you find the answer?
Mr. Potter, you pulled me out of a fix! I was replacing the carb on my riding mower, and when I got to the linkage, the the choke rod fell off. I hadn't looked at it prior to that, as I thought the control end of the rod was connected to something. Just couldn't figure that one out when trying to reattach. Came in and watch your video, and voila! The rod doesn't attach there, it just gets pushed.
BTW, for those of you who watch this video, My B&S is a 13.5 hp, but it's the same configuration as Mr. Potter's 17.5 hp.
I'm tellin' ya, if I had a buck for every time a TH-cam video helped me do a job................ Thank you, Thank You, Thank You
Glad you found it helpful. TH-cam has pulled me out of a jam many times. If you shot a video of your fix, post a link here to help the next guy along. - Clay.
Same thing happened to me yesterday. This video is a Godsend!!!
Very good video. I have a 2012ish LT2300
Set up very similar if not exactly the same. My engine keeps “surging” and was not responding to my throttle control, so I figured the linkage was off a little. Can’t wait to look so it again after seeing this.
Shoot a brief video of the problem and the repair, put it on your channel, and put a link here so others will see it. It could be a linkage problem, a carb problem, bad gas, a vacuum leak ... I always learn something watching other DIYers solve problems. Good Luck! - Clay.
Here's a link to a good video on engine surging from sixtyfiveford:
th-cam.com/video/FQ22j4FsF6g/w-d-xo.html
Great video! Was working on the neighbor's LT1000 and needed some guidance. Your video answered all of my questions - except one. What is the mechanism that returns the choke into the open position once the throttle is moved out of the choke position? I see it happening in your video, but it does not happen on the neighbor's lawnmower. My guess is there a missing or broken spring somewhere to force the choke to return to the open position, but I can't find a reference drawing showing that. Any ideas what the issue might be? Thanks.
I'm pretty sure the choke IS spring-loaded open. I can't remember how, and it's not my mower. I will look and post the answer, but it will be a few days.
Well done, thank you, very clear video and demonstrations
I've moved my repair videos to another TH-cam channel called "The Hapless Handyman". There are a couple more LT1000 videos in the series. I haven't posted anything new recently, but those older videos still get a lot of views. Happy Holidays! - Clay.
My Governor does not move at all when choke linkage goes back. Plus the choke linkage does not go back in place after I pull back on it. Plus that tiny copper wire that goes on top of the carb and to Governor arm is gone. Any thoughts?
Shoot a quick video showing the problem and post it on your channel. Then put a link here. Someone will be able to answer your question. I know it's not in keeping with your channel subject matter, but you can always take ii down after you make the fix.
@@claypotter378 so the choke link should be. That’s the easily identifiable long U going into a s slot that the choke arm hits. You did a good job showing it.
Yours springs back in place mine does not
@@claypotter378 I figured it out the cheap carb on Amazon had a clutch spring that opens and closes the carb but it was defective, it had no spring.
My wife fixed the spring thing and although I put gorilla glue on top of the throttle linkage hooked end so it would stay in iplace on top of the carb it worhs again
Congrats on the fix. I've had problems with cheap aftermarket carbs too. Duct tape and J-B Weld are my go-to's. Wives that fix things? A rare commodity in today's world.
Where to find the other 3 previous videos?
I've moved the lawnmower videos to my other channel. Search TH-cam for "The Hapless Handyman" or @claypotter381
Thank you so much
Very helpful, thank you!
Thank you buddy..!
Just what I needed. ❤
My mower is slightly different but works in the same manner. For some reason when I start the mower it immediately starts shooting WAY high in the RPM's to the point where it would blow up if not dealt with. I have to manually close the throttle to keep oxygen from getting into the engine which then shuts it off. any ideas on how to solve this?
The throttle plate (not the choke plate) should automatically open and close to regulate RPM. If it doesn't: 1) Check the idle screw (if it has one) to make sure it's not holding the throttle plate open too far. 2) Check to make sure the throttle cable is properly positioned in the cable clamp. 3) Check to make sure the throttle plate is open when the engine is off and the throttle is set to low. (it is spring-loaded open - the governor system should close it as soon as the engine is running) 4) Check to make sure the throttle plate opens and closes easily with finger pressure.
The carb may be dumping too much gas into the engine and the governor system is revving the engine to burn it. Or there could be a problem with the governor system itself. Make sure the governor vane moves freely and is able to move the throttle plate without sticking. It's a spring-loaded balancing act, but will give trouble-free service once you find the problem. Good luck with the repair. Let us know what was wrong.
@@claypotter378if I understand this correctly. In the video at 4:10 the governor/throttle is closed (choke position)? 4:05 is slightly cracked open, then closed and closed again in the choke and run position?
I wasn't very clear in my explanation of how the throttle plate moves. Maybe this will help:
1) The governor does not work when the engine off, so the throttle plate will be open no matter what position the throttle is in.
2) As soon as the engine starts, the governor will push the throttle plate closed against the idle screw - or at least nearly against the idle screw. This is super important! Make sure it does or the engine will rev uncontrollably. (Like yours does.)
3) Push the throttle plate closed against the idle screw, and then back the screw out until it doesn't touch. Then screw it back in a couple of turns so it opens the throttle plate just a wee bit. You can fine tune the idle speed once the engine is running correctly.
4) There is this super thin spring that runs under the rod that connects the governor to the throttle plate which I didn't mention in the video. Re-watch starting at time stamp 3:28, When you get to time stamp 3:47 you can barely see the spring under the rod when I manually move the throttle plate by pushing on the governor. I think that spring is MANDATORY for the governor to function properly.
Let us know what you find. P.S. My previous reply has some miss-statements which I have corrected.
@@claypotter378 thank you again. I’m currently waiting for a diode to arrive so I can get the mower running as I ran into another issue. I’ll use this information to the best of my ability because as I said earlier, my mower is different. I did rewatch and see the small spring/line you mentioned but my mower actually doesn’t have that. And after watching other videos of people working on the same exact mower as mine, I confirmed it’s not needed to run. I’ll give an update when I replace the diode and hopefully get it running! In case you know anything about it, my mower is the Craftsman Kohler 15.5hp 42” inch mower (CV15S)
I've only worked on one with a Kohler engine (LT2000 model?). It had two problems: Automatic fuel shut-off was stuck closed so the engine wouldn't start; and a stuck open float dumping too much gas into the engine - it ran too fast and smoked. A good carb cleaning fixed both problems. I never saw that mower again so I guess it still works. Upload a video of your repair. Maybe it will help someone else.
This is very similar to mine - and I have a stupid question. So throttling all the way up is just for starting and normal running condition is when the throttle is in the mid position where the throttle 'clicks' in place? I ask because when I try to throttle past middle position, it wants to choke and die. I've been chasing my tail trying to figure out why.
Your understanding of operation is correct: The choke plate should only be closed when the throttle is pushed all the way. When you pull the throttle back to the "click" run position, the choke should fully open. The choke plate is spring-loaded to open so it should open automatically when the throttle is moved to run. If the choke is partially or fully closed when the throttle is in run, you should be able to adjust it by moving the throttle cable back and forth in the cable clamp until its in the right place. - Clay.
P.S. If your engine isn't running fast enough in the run position, it could be almost anything. I had a Troy-built tiller that wouldn't throttle up to full speed last spring. Turns out it was just a really dirty air filter. Tilling clay into powder makes a cloud of dust and the filter was totally clogged. I'm surprised it ran at all.
@@claypotter378 Thank you, very informative. So, yeah, I don't feel like it's running fast enough in that running (clicked) position. But I really have nothing to base this on, as I bought it used. I'm very good about keeping clean filter and oil. She gets the job done, so maybe I should leave well enough alone.
If the motor is running smoothly and you just want a little more RPM/hp, look into "adjusting" the governor spring. I can't go into details here - and don't go too far - but you may find your solution there. - Clay.
@@claypotter378 Thank you, sir.
Very informative. Clearly explained.
Thanks!
Excellent video. Thank you...
That mower still cuts 3/4 ac. every week. It's old so it doesn't have an hour meter, and some day it will give up the ghost; but for now it just keeps going and going and ...
Excellent explanation 👍
Thanks. I learned a lot trying to make that video ... and I learned some more from commenters. There are some real experts out there willing to share with us Average Joe's. Good luck with your project.
you are missing the tiny long spring that retracts the choke
The next time I have the chance, I'll look for "the tiny long spring" you mention. Is it connected to the choke plate or the throttle plate? I didn't see one, but that doesn't mean it's not there. Thanks! - Clay.
Thank youuuu !!! This was so helpful!!
Glad to hear it helped. Good luck with your project. - Clay.
This is a huge help ! Thanks for posting this
Glad it was helpful! Grass cutting season is over here in Maryland Zone 7A. It's time to start year-end maintenance and get ready for next season. - Clay.
@@claypotter378 yes , here also S.Jersey Shore however ,, the leaves 🍂 are knee deep … lol.. hoping to do a lil mulching.
We shred our leaves, then layer them with grass clippings and dirt in the compost bins. We add in anything else organic we can find like: kitchen scraps, dead plants, and rain gutter trash. The time we spend making compost now leads to a better garden in the spring.
South Jersey is much like here, but you have a sandy component in the soil that is better than our pure clay. I have fond memories of Uncle Dewey's Outdoor BBQ on the way to and from the Jersey Shore. - Clay.
is the sping on the governer important ?!!
In a word, Yes. Some springs are more important than others. There are multiple springs in the throttle/governor/choke system. All work together to start the engine and regulate its speed. I've been told the long thin spring hiding below that piece of linkage is there to keep the linkage from falling out. The engine will run without it, but unpredictable things can happen if the linkage falls out while you are cutting. As a general rule, all the pieces are there because some engineer decided the cost of adding them was worth the increase in safety or performance. Making alterations to your engine is beyond the scope of this video. Safety first, performance second, efficiency third!
Very informative video explain how the throttle linkage work. Hipa supplies all kinds of small engine parts and we are looking for youtubers to work with to share more tips and trick on repairing. Are you interested in a collaboration on making a small engine repair video?
Hi! Thanks for reaching out. I'm curious how this works, but I don't know if I can be of much help. I'm migrating my repair videos to another channel called "Hapless Handyman". It has less subscribers at present but gets more views, so in the long run I think it will be better. - Clay.