Nice video 👍 i did a big bore and valve and springs on mine about 1 month ago but i am having an issue even if i let it sit to warm it up the quad turn off but starts right up, also when riding it and you press clutch to down gears to come to a stop or just taking a corner it shutss off. It runs perfect and throttle response and everything just that and i cant figure it out.
It sounds like the idle could be too low. If that doesn't solve the problem (start easy and then do harder stuff), then it could be the jetting is wrong in the carburetor. Since you did a big bore you will need to up the jets in the carburetor. Sounds like the slow jet (pilot jet, idle jet) is too low. If this is the case, your main jet is also probably also too low.
Cant wait to hear it fire up ! Your videos have been extremely helpful!! Just a question what brand did you go with for the cylinder head and valve cover?
I bought a 05+ 400ex Wiseco "Garage Buddy" kit from eBAY and came with a Niche cylinder, wiseco piston and crank. The cylinder head and cover was from "Parts Ace" and I have no idea what brand it is so it is so I hope it runs :) ... it was ported and polished though. The rocker arms cylinder head kit was also Niche and the valve seals were Kibblewhite.
All the crankcase bearings are brand new OEM and the main bearings that came with the Wiseco kit were made in Japan and great quality! The cam bearings are also brand new OEM! The transmission came from a 2014 400ex and was in immaculate condition!
The crankcases are factory OEM (vapor blasted), the cylinder is "Niche", the cylinder head and cover are "Parts Ace" (from eBay - www.ebay.com/str/partace). I assume "Parts Ace" is Chinese manufactured but I have no idea. The cylinder was part of the Wiseco Garage Buddy rebuild kit.
So I'm having trouble getting the wave washers on the exhaust ports sub rockers to crush into there. Looks like there is still a small gap between the washer and arm. On the intake side it crushed right in there and looks flush. Also the wave washers goes on the far side of the bolt head on the intake and the near side of the bolt head exhaust side correct?
That is correct ... bolt thread side for exhaust, and the far side for the intake, just after the shaft goes all the way through the rocker and just before the shaft goes through the inner hole ... exhaust side is easy and the intake side needs a little patience and finesse ... feed the shaft through the rocker and then right before the shaft goes into the hole plunk a wave washer in there ... just like i did in the video ... i just watched it, i made it look pretty easy :)
you can download the 2005-2009 service manual pdf here - trx400ex.com/service-manuals/ - the wave washer location diagram is on page 8-25 in the CYLINDER HEAD/VALVE section
@11GalleryATV you did make it look easy haha I got a bit frustrated and took a break for the day I'll get back at it tomorrow. I was able to get one of them together but it doesn't look right wish I could upload a Pic on here. I appreciate you responding thank you.
Hey bud I watch your videos and ,you do awesome work , I have a question,I’m building a 400ex and I seen where you using niche parts, how good are they,and are they holding up Good, I thinking about using them on mine since you did, any info will help , and thanks for sharing the knowledge, I love ya videos.
Awesome videos!! Super helpful. I am rebuilding the top end of my TRX400EX using the same cylinder head with new valves. Would you recommend grinding the new valves with an old head? Or should I purchase a new head?
You can (and should) "lap" the new valves into an old head to make them seal properly. Remember that once a valve is lapped to that bore, the same valve goes back into the bore that it was lapped to. That is a judgement call on buying a new head, if your old one is still within spec go ahead and use it with the new valves.
That tolerance is for sharpie or bluing seal compound? If it's actually for the blue, is it Dykem hi-spot or Permatex prussian blue because I may actually have to do this myself and was wondering if sharpie actually does compare to whichever if that is the case.... ? I know the hi-spot is for a tighter tolerance than the prussian i think like .0005 to .0015 maybe and the prussian actually is less because its application is thicker or whatever..... then if using dykem u can actually cheat or cheat yourself in this case if there is any oil on the seal surface of either side u contact with the blued part....idk about this side of it that's y i asked....ur looking for wear, it seems to me if the valve is lifting.....well opening then closing then a thin layer of blue on either part then touch and take out to see if there is a high or low spot would make more sense as with the sharpie ur gonna be dry before knowing probably....but wtf it probably doesn't matter.....
I used a black sharpie. It compares just fine if you do it right. The sharpie ink is fine if it dries since the valves and the seats are wearing away where they come into contact with the surface. These valves were brand new and the cylinder head was brand new also which is why I lapped the valves. I had to make sure the valves and the seats wear together in perfect harmony.
It's noisy (tick-tick-tick) but it works, i guess ... I would not buy anymore Chinesium parts ever again ... I have since removed all (cylinder, piston, crank) and went to OEM ... cam, head, and head guts are the only cheap shiznitty things left
I assume you are talking about those little "wave washers" ... you can get them here (#28) www.motosport.com/oem-parts/honda/2007/trx400ex/camshaft-+-valve
Was this a Chinese re-pop? I have one on order I bought a 400ex roller for $100 and I’m doing a budget build 440ex series. I was thinking about spending the doe on quality kibblewhite valve springs and valves so I don’t drop a valve on my nice new wiseco piston but get re pop valve train kit for the hardware and rockers what’s your experience been like ?
@@11GalleryATV what kit did you choose for the valves, springs, rockers eta.. ? None of the kits on eBay show the washers like that bent one for the sub rocker and waiting for the seller to reply takes forever. Did your kit not show the washers as well and you ended up with them ?
I don't know ... try a google search for "honda 400ex service manual pdf" or something ... I bought a clymer manual for the 400ex from amazon ... amzn.to/2IjPpjI
How long have you been doing this TH-cam stuff?? You have some very detailed instructions on building a 400ex, which I planned on doing when I rebuild mine and do an XC build. I also have a TRX250R frame to build, along with a blaster and an LT250R. I’m about to start a channel in hopes to replace my 9-5 so I can spend time with the kids and do what I love doing
@@christopheravery5808 Been doing TH-cam build videos for about 6 months now (been actually building for overt 30 years!) and I would not quit your 9-5. I still make nothing from TH-cam. You will want to start a TH-cam channel while you still do your 9-5 to keep your bills paid and don't quit until TH-cam starts to pay off. Who knows how long that will be ...
Oh I’m not going to quit for a while. I’m actually starting my landscaping business back up. I made the mistake of partnering with family before, this time I won’t make that mistake. I’ll have a TH-cam channel for that as well. ATVs won’t be my only income lol. I do know you got to get to 1,000 subscribers and 4,000 views in a 12 months time period. I feel like you’ve got the most detailed instructions out of everybody that builds quads, and I feel like if you could get the word out for your channel you could potentially get to the point of making money, even if it just turns it into a “self supporting hobby”, which is what my ATV channel will be. I plan on doing builds (with cost breakdowns going from the build to the track), tech tips, rider safety and technique, ATV and Dirt bike news (following racing, OHV laws, regulations, new models, etc), shootouts, interviews, and reviewing riding areas all over the country. It will take time to get there, but I’m actually doing this with my oldest daughter who came up with the idea. She wants to learn how to build them and race XC which is what I used to do. The goal is to build, ride, and race. Everything else will basically be to add content to my channel.
Where can I purchase the rocker arms and sub rocker arms basically just everything in the cylinder cover other than the plugs on top? And how much did it cost you
So far, so good ... I am doing a tear down video here pretty soon to see how the inerds look ... but I would buy OEM, if you can afford it (very pricey for every part, though) - www.motosport.com/oem-parts/honda/2007/trx400ex/camshaft-+-valve - otherwise, I bought this kit on eBay and it is a Niche brand top end kit - ebay.us/8gTgH6
@@WoodysPerformance101 Those all came in the kit I bought but you can buy all of the OEM stuff at any of the major parts suppliers. Do a search for "2007 Honda 400ex OEM parts" or whatever year yours is and then look in the "Camshaft/Valve" section (here is Partzilla but may be cheaper somewhere else) - www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/atv/2007/trx400ex-a-trx400ex/camshaft-valve
Cool vid bro from Kentucky
Nice video 👍 i did a big bore and valve and springs on mine about 1 month ago but i am having an issue even if i let it sit to warm it up the quad turn off but starts right up, also when riding it and you press clutch to down gears to come to a stop or just taking a corner it shutss off. It runs perfect and throttle response and everything just that and i cant figure it out.
It sounds like the idle could be too low. If that doesn't solve the problem (start easy and then do harder stuff), then it could be the jetting is wrong in the carburetor. Since you did a big bore you will need to up the jets in the carburetor. Sounds like the slow jet (pilot jet, idle jet) is too low. If this is the case, your main jet is also probably also too low.
Do a google search for "400ex big bore carburetor jetting" and you will find tons of information. Carburetor jetting is sometimes trial and error.
Cant wait to hear it fire up ! Your videos have been extremely helpful!! Just a question what brand did you go with for the cylinder head and valve cover?
I bought a 05+ 400ex Wiseco "Garage Buddy" kit from eBAY and came with a Niche cylinder, wiseco piston and crank. The cylinder head and cover was from "Parts Ace" and I have no idea what brand it is so it is so I hope it runs :) ... it was ported and polished though. The rocker arms cylinder head kit was also Niche and the valve seals were Kibblewhite.
All the crankcase bearings are brand new OEM and the main bearings that came with the Wiseco kit were made in Japan and great quality! The cam bearings are also brand new OEM! The transmission came from a 2014 400ex and was in immaculate condition!
@@11GalleryATV extremely helpful man !! Ready to see the next video!!
Yea man great videos I just started watching as I am also building a 400ex myself
When I go to tighten and torque them, the sub rockers get super tight and don't move freely... main rockers move
maybe you forgot the little wave washers?
Are these all OEM cases. Like cylinder head valve head all OEM or like niche???
The crankcases are factory OEM (vapor blasted), the cylinder is "Niche", the cylinder head and cover are "Parts Ace" (from eBay - www.ebay.com/str/partace). I assume "Parts Ace" is Chinese manufactured but I have no idea. The cylinder was part of the Wiseco Garage Buddy rebuild kit.
So I'm having trouble getting the wave washers on the exhaust ports sub rockers to crush into there. Looks like there is still a small gap between the washer and arm. On the intake side it crushed right in there and looks flush. Also the wave washers goes on the far side of the bolt head on the intake and the near side of the bolt head exhaust side correct?
@11 Gallery Atv
@11 Gallery ATV
That is correct ... bolt thread side for exhaust, and the far side for the intake, just after the shaft goes all the way through the rocker and just before the shaft goes through the inner hole ... exhaust side is easy and the intake side needs a little patience and finesse ... feed the shaft through the rocker and then right before the shaft goes into the hole plunk a wave washer in there ... just like i did in the video ... i just watched it, i made it look pretty easy :)
you can download the 2005-2009 service manual pdf here - trx400ex.com/service-manuals/ - the wave washer location diagram is on page 8-25 in the CYLINDER HEAD/VALVE section
@11GalleryATV you did make it look easy haha I got a bit frustrated and took a break for the day I'll get back at it tomorrow. I was able to get one of them together but it doesn't look right wish I could upload a Pic on here. I appreciate you responding thank you.
Hey bud I watch your videos and ,you do awesome work , I have a question,I’m building a 400ex and I seen where you using niche parts, how good are they,and are they holding up Good, I thinking about using them on mine since you did, any info will help , and thanks for sharing the knowledge, I love ya videos.
So far everything is holding up just fine.
Awesome videos!! Super helpful. I am rebuilding the top end of my TRX400EX using the same cylinder head with new valves. Would you recommend grinding the new valves with an old head? Or should I purchase a new head?
You can (and should) "lap" the new valves into an old head to make them seal properly. Remember that once a valve is lapped to that bore, the same valve goes back into the bore that it was lapped to. That is a judgement call on buying a new head, if your old one is still within spec go ahead and use it with the new valves.
@@11GalleryATV appreciate it! Thanks again.
That tolerance is for sharpie or bluing seal compound? If it's actually for the blue, is it Dykem hi-spot or Permatex prussian blue because I may actually have to do this myself and was wondering if sharpie actually does compare to whichever if that is the case.... ? I know the hi-spot is for a tighter tolerance than the prussian i think like .0005 to .0015 maybe and the prussian actually is less because its application is thicker or whatever..... then if using dykem u can actually cheat or cheat yourself in this case if there is any oil on the seal surface of either side u contact with the blued part....idk about this side of it that's y i asked....ur looking for wear, it seems to me if the valve is lifting.....well opening then closing then a thin layer of blue on either part then touch and take out to see if there is a high or low spot would make more sense as with the sharpie ur gonna be dry before knowing probably....but wtf it probably doesn't matter.....
I used a black sharpie. It compares just fine if you do it right. The sharpie ink is fine if it dries since the valves and the seats are wearing away where they come into contact with the surface. These valves were brand new and the cylinder head was brand new also which is why I lapped the valves. I had to make sure the valves and the seats wear together in perfect harmony.
How is that head holding up?
It's noisy (tick-tick-tick) but it works, i guess ... I would not buy anymore Chinesium parts ever again ... I have since removed all (cylinder, piston, crank) and went to OEM ... cam, head, and head guts are the only cheap shiznitty things left
@@11GalleryATV oh dang. Lots of people use the big bore kits
Were can I get those washers I’m missing 2
I assume you are talking about those little "wave washers" ... you can get them here (#28) www.motosport.com/oem-parts/honda/2007/trx400ex/camshaft-+-valve
Was this a Chinese re-pop? I have one on order I bought a 400ex roller for $100 and I’m doing a budget build 440ex series. I was thinking about spending the doe on quality kibblewhite valve springs and valves so I don’t drop a valve on my nice new wiseco piston but get re pop valve train kit for the hardware and rockers what’s your experience been like ?
yes ... the complete top end end is basically chines ... so far it is holding up alright. I don't ride a lot but it still starts and runs perfectly.
@@11GalleryATV what kit did you choose for the valves, springs, rockers eta.. ? None of the kits on eBay show the washers like that bent one for the sub rocker and waiting for the seller to reply takes forever. Did your kit not show the washers as well and you ended up with them ?
@@Ramcat_Vlogs Those "Wave Washers" I bought OEM (#28 in the diagram) - www.motosport.com/oem-parts/honda/2007/trx400ex/camshaft-+-valve
Where did you buy those rocker arms
eBay ... search for "Cylinder Head Rebuild Kit for Honda 400ex". $99.95 and made by "Niche"
Hi, where can I download the honda trx 400 manual? thanks from Italy ✌️🇮🇹
I don't know ... try a google search for "honda 400ex service manual pdf" or something ... I bought a clymer manual for the 400ex from amazon ... amzn.to/2IjPpjI
I found this link (there is a 2005-2009 TRX400EX Service Manual) ... quads.ddns.net/service-manuals/honda/
How long have you been doing this TH-cam stuff?? You have some very detailed instructions on building a 400ex, which I planned on doing when I rebuild mine and do an XC build. I also have a TRX250R frame to build, along with a blaster and an LT250R. I’m about to start a channel in hopes to replace my 9-5 so I can spend time with the kids and do what I love doing
@@christopheravery5808 Been doing TH-cam build videos for about 6 months now (been actually building for overt 30 years!) and I would not quit your 9-5. I still make nothing from TH-cam. You will want to start a TH-cam channel while you still do your 9-5 to keep your bills paid and don't quit until TH-cam starts to pay off. Who knows how long that will be ...
Oh I’m not going to quit for a while. I’m actually starting my landscaping business back up. I made the mistake of partnering with family before, this time I won’t make that mistake. I’ll have a TH-cam channel for that as well. ATVs won’t be my only income lol. I do know you got to get to 1,000 subscribers and 4,000 views in a 12 months time period. I feel like you’ve got the most detailed instructions out of everybody that builds quads, and I feel like if you could get the word out for your channel you could potentially get to the point of making money, even if it just turns it into a “self supporting hobby”, which is what my ATV channel will be. I plan on doing builds (with cost breakdowns going from the build to the track), tech tips, rider safety and technique, ATV and Dirt bike news (following racing, OHV laws, regulations, new models, etc), shootouts, interviews, and reviewing riding areas all over the country. It will take time to get there, but I’m actually doing this with my oldest daughter who came up with the idea. She wants to learn how to build them and race XC which is what I used to do. The goal is to build, ride, and race. Everything else will basically be to add content to my channel.
Where can I purchase the rocker arms and sub rocker arms basically just everything in the cylinder cover other than the plugs on top? And how much did it cost you
So far, so good ... I am doing a tear down video here pretty soon to see how the inerds look ... but I would buy OEM, if you can afford it (very pricey for every part, though) - www.motosport.com/oem-parts/honda/2007/trx400ex/camshaft-+-valve - otherwise, I bought this kit on eBay and it is a Niche brand top end kit - ebay.us/8gTgH6
@@11GalleryATV ok thankyou lots
@@11GalleryATV One more question where did you get all the washers and everything for the rocker arms shafts and all that
@@WoodysPerformance101 Those all came in the kit I bought but you can buy all of the OEM stuff at any of the major parts suppliers. Do a search for "2007 Honda 400ex OEM parts" or whatever year yours is and then look in the "Camshaft/Valve" section (here is Partzilla but may be cheaper somewhere else) - www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/atv/2007/trx400ex-a-trx400ex/camshaft-valve
@@11GalleryATV Ok thanks and that's funny cause they didn't come in my kit and I ordered the one off that link
Ok so I need help my little exhaust rocker lifter fall back down by then self do you have facebook