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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ก.ค. 2024
- Quick video showing how to check RC Ball Links to determine if they need replacement. We will then replace these worn out RC helicopter links, making sure to get correct adjustment off the bench.
Quickly checking all your ball links should be a regular pre-flight session or post-flight session maintenance safety check, but I also go through every heli in the off-season to perform a more thorough inspection.
Loosening up ball links are a progressive issue so it's not like they will cause a sudden catastrophic in flight failure leading to a costly crash; however, it's best to replace them as soon as possible after noticing they are getting loose, especially if you fly hard.
Time Chapters:
0:00 Howdy Folks
0:25 Checking Ball Links
1:56 Removing Old Ball Links
3:55 Replacing Ball Links
4:47 Refitting New Ball Links
6:05 Conclusion
Tools used in this video.
RC Ball Link Pliers/Tool Set:
amzn.to/3SQ9crk
Ball Link Wrench:
amzn.to/3uBKLWx
Low Cost Digital Calipers:
amzn.to/3SLDc7A
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Basic Tools Used In This Video:
RC Ball Link Pliers/Tool Set:
amzn.to/3SQ9crk
Ball Link Wrench:
amzn.to/3uBKLWx
Low Cost Digital Calipers:
amzn.to/3SLDc7A
Somehow, I never imagined that plastic links could be a source of slop. Wow, wish I knew that earlier. Thanks!
Great reminder, Thank you.
Thanks for watching
Thanks for the video! Helpfull as always. BR Timo
Thanks for watching
Preflight always , slop given special look before Its felt on loose gimbal. I use to replace linkage for its pretty colors , only to realize stock ones may have been crap or worn out . I measure , take pics & even count the threads. It's the lil things. ......
nice catch, really don't want to lose a link on a Black Shark
Yep, the original 700 size ones are pretty much irreplaceable fuselages. Been keeping my eye open for anyone selling one to have a back up for the past several years, but I'm always late to the game.
they fine if it loose little bit but if u push them with your 2 finger and they come out definitely need to be replaced .
Thanks for the training session. A little more knowledge always helps. I have a fairly old frame that looks like a new unfinished build. It has 3DX machined out of the side frames. I'm guessing 500 size or smaller but I don't know how sizes are figured , is it by blade length ? Have you heard of 3DX ? Is that a brand name or a model type ? Can you suggest any websites that have parts? This one has no tail boom yet (set up for tubular with belt drive ) , no motor, no servos and no blades. I have only found a website in the UK that comes up in reference to 3DX and appears to be just tail parts.
Sorry, never heard of "3DX" so no idea about brand/parts - Google search is where I would start or post photos on one of the heli forums for identification. Yes, most RC helicopters are sized by blade, specifically bolt hole to blade tip length in millimeters. I cover the basics of sizing on this page from my website: www.rchelicopterfun.com/large-rc-helicopters.html
Thank you for this great video, John! I am always struggeling a bit which direction I have to screw the plastic balls links on and how (whick way) to turn the link inbetween to shorten or lengthen the distance bettwenn the ball links. Do you have any simple advise how to get this straight without measuring necessarily the length? I will check now all ball links on all my helis. Best greetings from Poland!!
@RCCopterLove-helis4ever - It depends on what type of pushrods you have on your specific machine. These ones shown on this 700 are the easy and the most common type that just have simple right hand threads on each end of the pushrods so when you turn the link on either end CW, the link will screw further down onto the rod shortening the overall length. To lengthen, you would turn them (the ball links) CCW.
Things get more interesting however with tie-rod type pushrods and I'm guessing that's what you are asking about? This is going to be long I'm afraid...
These tie-rod types have right hand threads on one end of the rod and left hand threads on the other end of the rod. They usually also have a small hex, flat or hole in the center of the pushrod so you can get a small wrench, pliers, pin through to turn the rod instead of the links.
These tie-rod type rods have two advantages in that they provides finer length adjustment resolution of your ball links and you don't have to snap the ball links off the balls if you don't want to when making adjustments, you can just turn the pushrod with the links attached to increase and decrease the length.
With left threads on one end of the rod and right on the other end, when you turn the pushrod in one direction, both links at each end will thread further onto the rod shortening the length, turn the rod in the other direction, and the links thread further out.
Your question is how do you know which way to turn the rod (or the link alone) to achieve either movement? The unfortunate answer is you don't. Reason being, it depends which way the rod was installed, i.e. which end has the left hand threads and which end has the right hand threads. You need to know which end of the rod has either thread direction in other words.
For example, I will always orient my main blade grip pushrods that use the tie-rod type rods with the right hand thread down at the swashplate and left hand thread up at the blade grip (I mark the right hand thread end with a marker/similar). This way as I'm usually looking down at the top of the link on the swashplate side and I therefore know when I turn the pushrod CW, it's threading further into the link and shortening the overall length.
Hope that makes some sense.
@@Rchelicopterfun That all makes perfect sense and this all is axactly what I was asking myself. I had the biggest problem when I was building my first and second ever heli kit, first the OMP M4 and then then the M4 Max. In both kits are used the "more complicated" pushrods with two directional threads and I remember that I was cursing inside a bit when I was preparing the balllinks because the plastic balllink parts are sitting very tight on the threads and its very difficult to get the threads into the hole of the ballend EVEN if you know which way to turn. The first couple of turns are a real pain. A lot strenght needed. In the OMP case the design turnbuckles are having two different looks (angles of the shape) and I am installing all links in the same way. For a newbe when building kits the whole process of he build is overwhealming, pushrods with two different directed threads did not make it easier. :) Not to mention setup with Radio and FBL programming (kind of horror for me). And I have the bad luck that I love flying helis soooo much more (1000 times) than working on them. Your tips are helping a lot. With every new kit and every repair or maintenace job I am learning more and somehow learn to like the work on my helis a bit. It deepens my technical understanding and with this makes me a better pilot. I ordered the right turnbuckle keys for my M4's to be able to adjust the lenght whithout removing the ballinks - thanks to thes "comlicated" pushrods that will help in future. Thank you for taking your time! I see it much clearer now! Best greetings from Poland!!
What brand of ball link pliers are you using? I'm looking for a top quality set. I have 2 of your helicopter E books. Enjoy all of your videos
The ones in the video are the Blade BLH100 (500-800 size birds).
www.horizonhobby.com/product/deluxe-ball-link-pliers-all/BLH100.html
Never had much luck with the curved ones and like these BLH100 straight ones better.
For the smaller birds, the best I've used to date are OMP's OSHM2364: www.buddyrc.com/products/omphobby-ball-link-pliers?ref=-ptdbz6d-llb
Hi, I watched most of your rc heli videos and bought your book. I am learning to fly Heli. I know you say to not learn with stability mode, but I have a health problem with slow signal to my hands, a challenge. I can hover sometimes in sport mode(idle 1) but most have to use stability mode. Anyway, if I had to setup OMP M2s swashplate in stability mode. I've leveled swash plate, centred servos, made servo arms the same length, zero pitch at centre stick. But I know it's going to drift left from rudder side push to left. Do I make the corrections in servo arms machanically, or do I make adjustments in M2 servo settings? Or do I just trim it? What would be best? Thanks
If it only drifts in self/auto level mode and not in normal gyro mode, that is an accelerometer calibration issue and has to be done electronically within the FBL system. If it only drifts in normal gyro mode, then you mechanically add a tiny bit of right swash lean (servo to swash pushrod adjustment) to counter the LTRTT (left tail rotor translating tendency). If it drifts left in both modes, then it's likely a combination, but start with mechanical first.
@@Rchelicopterfun Thankyou for that. Appreciated.
do you calibrate your vernier caliper over time?
Very ocasionally; find these ones stay in excellent cal for many years, but it totally depends how well they are treated & looked after like any measureing tool. Had these ones since 1994, hard to beat Mitutoyo quality for the price. 🙂