This was just what I needed. I am retired and taking a Glaze Chem online class, but needed reassurance that I was on the right track before plunging into my first tests.
You are a delight to listen to about this complex subject. As a beginner I would like to hear tips and watch you measure the ingredients out as well. Glad you were able to dress warmer. Keep up the great work!
When I first started testing glazes, 19 yrs. ago, I never had the results pictured, whether from books or our trade mags, like Pottery Making Illustrated, etc. So many variables to consider, such as the origin of each ingredient, application thickness, kiln firing schedule, so many that I was sure that it was impossible to reproduce these glazes. It was when I learned, and I can't remember where, that WATER is an often overlooked ingredient. I began to use DISTILLED WATER for mixing, instead of my local tap or garden hose water. With only a slight variation from the originals, due in part to firing schedule, I found that I could get and repeat the results from whatever source I used. So simple, but try it!
Fir anyone interested, in the Mastering Cone 6 Glazes book, you can find them second hand, people are asking a lot for them. (I saw some for between $100-400!) Instead, the BookPatch.com is reprinting a black and white version for $25. To see the glaze examples, in color, you can go to masterglazes.com. The photos, in the book are, of course, just black and white.
Please do not change your informal presentation. You have given me the push to make some glazes in bulk. My students will love this! Please keep it real.
Hi Jessica, thank you for so kindly sharing your Chun glaze recipe. I'd love to try it. I'm from Wales (UK), so some ingredients are named differently, please can you tell me if the G200 is a potash feldspar or a soda feldspar, also is the OM4 a hyplas ball clay, or what would you recommend? Many thanks. Love your videos, as a newly graduated student I find them so helpful and inspiring. Keep up the good work 👍😊
Hi Jessica, Really love your videos! Any reccomendations for a white gloss glaze that I can paint underglaze over without the underglaze running? best!
okhomestead I've used it on laguna bmix, a buff stoneware and it looks similar as to the porcelain.. maybe a little less Blue but that's the only difference.
. Most ceramics suppliers have a table on their site or google Ceramic cone firing table and images of charts come up. Most ceramics books have one. In a manual kiln cones are placed in a kiln sitter (3 prongs set inside kiln). The cone rests on 2 and the 3rd sits on the cone. Cones all melt at specific temperatures and when the temperature is reached the cone slumps in the middle causing the 3rd prong to fall down which shuts the kiln off. Computerized kilns do not need a cone to shut off. Different clays fire at different temperatures, as do glazes. If you were to fire earthenware at porcelain temperatures the clay will basically melt out of shape. Bisques firing is generally quite low (anywhere from 08 to 04 depenmding on your clay body)If you were to fire an earthenware glaze (cone 04) at porcelain cone 10 the glaze would melt right off. Imagine a scale showing negative and positive numbers 0 being the middle. Cones are similar. cone 04 by comparison is on the negative side and cone 4 is on the positive side. Earthenware, Stoneware and true porcelain all have certain temperatures they should be fired at to reach their proper vitification (impermeability to water.) A long answer but it is an important aspect of firing. Check your local library. (This is a good book Beginner's Guide to Pottery & Ceramics : Everything You Need to Know to Start Making Beautiful Ceramics by Jacqui Atkin @ $20) and try this site for a table of cones: www.clay-king.com/kilns/pyrometric_cone_temperature_chart.html
Also my other issue was a totally different question pertaining to ceramic glazes vs glass glazes that you uses to color glass. You did a really good job with the ceramic glazes in this video but i also been wondering about making different color glassware. I imagine the way you color glass is completely different then the ceramic glazes maybe not . Just have found the relation/connection to coloring glass vs coloring ceramics with glazes yet. If you have the ceramic cookbook recipe can you derive how to color a type of glass recipe from it. Or is it completely unrelated cookbooks?
Hi Jessica , Thank you so much for your videos . I just started mixing m6 own glazes after 40 years of pottery making . I mixed up 100 grams of your chun , put it on b mix and speak led buff, Laguna Clay bodies. Fired to cone 5, both turned out a beautiful translucent green, kind of celadonish. Bummer, I was hoping for your nice opaque, sky blue . I have Jon Britts book....
My Chun needs to be applied thickly and if you sub for the G200 you have to use Mahvair Feldspar to get a good blue. Any other feldspar will make the glaze too green. :)
If you used ground up recycled colored glass bottles you get around the color issue because you know what your remelting interms of color in your glass... but starting from scratch with silica sand what to add to it to get a type of color and texture ...seems like its going to be another cookbook like problem similar to this video.
autumn green you could try using zircopax, it is an opacifier and should give you a nice satin opaque white. I'd do a few tests using it at different percentages before trying it on any large pieces.
O really nice explanation , so that's why i was have a difficulty trying to understand all glass and ceramic glazes... its not that simple its like a recipe. I wondered if anybody kept track of all the glazes in some ceramic glaze cookbook. Simple cooking math and good explanation on amounts and ingredients. Curious do you know if most pottery/ceramic studios just buy the chun recipe all premixed or do alot of ceramics studios make there own glazes?
It's expensive to use the premix so there is some cost saving to mixing yourself. But one needs to buy and sieve and chemicals in bulk, storage space, and scale etc. So no one has ever cost for me but I guess we could use a calculator. For some it might not be a saving.
Mirjana Curanovic Oxidation is a kiln firing, where an abundance of oxygen is available, for the glazes and clay bodies to react with. This is normally done, in an electric kiln, but can be done in any kiln, as long as the fuel is fully combusted. Reduction, is where there is a lack of oxygen in the kiln, resulting in the build up of carbon, starving the glazes and clay bodies of oxygen. This is done in gas and wood kilns.
I'm not sure if I missed this, but what ratio of water do you need? I thought certain glaze recipes need larger or smaller amounts of water. Im new to this so any help appreciated. Thank you!
Hi I totally tried this recipe and it totally flopped on me. I don't know why exactly. Goes able to find all the ingredients finally and I mix them on very very high quality scales but it turned very transparent bluish green and there was hardly any color. Nowhere near the color your achieving. I'm kind of wondering if the point five copper carbonate was a typo? I'm trying it again read it this moment with 1%
Its not a type-o you only need .5%. This glaze has to be really thick to get good color pay off. Also any substitutions will complexity change the glaze color. I have found that Mahvair is the best option as a sub for G200 but it is not nearly as good as the original feldspar. :)
@@JessicaPutnamPhillips I used minspar because a couple of gurus and my supplier recommended it is a direct replacement. I will trust you and try and get the other. My glaze was not super thick. It was actually thinner than I wanted it and I had thought about doing another quarter recipe and dumping it into send it out and I probably should have done that. By the way I instinctively added one drop of sodium silicate to smooth it out and I don't know if I should have sodium silicate I know you already know but I'm saying this anyway is a deflocculant. The funny thing is where it was real thick I got beautiful perfect blue just like yours so perhaps that was it I just made it to watery. I came up with something I most nearly identical using the 5x20 bass recipe and 1% copper carbonate. I mean the color matches amazing I couldn't believe it but again it was too thin and to glassy. Not quite as bad as the original one and I'm sure now that I think of it it was just due to the amount of water I added. I'm still new to this so I'm not going to get too mad at myself at this point. I am however going to buy the tiniest Kiln that I can find for developing glazes. I don't want to run a kiln just for a handful of tiles you know? Maybe I'll build one I got enough brick and I know and I made a big jig on my metal Mill to cut the channels for repair brick it works perfectly so I could actually just make a 2 element Kiln just for just for test tiles. Shit I could run it off of a variac and just turn it up 25% every two hours it would be perfect I am definitely going to do this maybe I'll send you some pictures I really appreciate you helping me that's very nice of you. So now I am going to go down and reproduce this glazed one more time and leave it very very thick and I'll leave out the sodium silicate perhaps.
@@JessicaPutnamPhillips okay I have a major problem here I made it 24 hundred grand badge so I could actually dip and I'm going to sacrifice somebody times to dip and get a good amount of glaze on them. The problem is I made it a couple of days ago and every morning I go to stir it up again and the bottom is so hard that it takes me literally an hour to stir up. I've tried a little bit of V gum and it did basically nothing Help! (:
Kevin Leong well I haven't had it tested in a lab so I can't say for sure but I have done leaching test with lemon and the glaze passed so I'd say it is. I've been using it for almost 10 years and have had no issues and there is hardly any copper in it so.....
I'm new to glaze making and mixing but I have a chemistry background so it's quite enjoyable to me. Seeing your videos really help a lot with understanding how to mix and use the glaze. Great job! I wonder whether you could make a video on glaze toxicity due to heavy metal ingredients. I know that most people don't use lead or cadmium anymore, but Barium, Cobalt, Magnesium and Copper oxide or carbonate are still used a lot for colorant and they are generally toxic in high dosage. One thing I noticed that a lot of blue glaze recipe including your Chun glaze here uses Cobalt carbonate or Cobalt Oxide for blue colorant. Most recipe uses 1 percent or less of Cobalt carbonate or oxide due to its toxicity in high level. I know you make a lot of food ware so are you worried at all about the presence of cobalt in your pottery? There are some leaching test technique and such to check for heavy metal leaching with makes it easier to check whether cobalt would leach out into food. What about the firing of cobalt being presence in your kiln? I read that some studios discourage using glaze with cobalt if they are firing food-safe pottery in the kiln. I love the blue color, but so far most of the recipes I have seen require using cobalt compound of some sort. I just started working in a community studio as a "glaze master" (fancy title for a newbie) that has a lot of kids so I'm very worried about any toxic chemical in general. Children can tolerate even lower dosage of chemical exposure than adults can.
Flyover Pilgrim Indeed. Though copper is also something to use carefully, when making functional ware. People with Wilson's Disease, accumulate excess copper in their bodies. So while some copper leaching, from a glaze wouldn't harm the average person, it would be a huge issue to someone with Wilson'. The same is true with iron, and someone with Hemochromatosis.
I'm a hobby chemist and most ingredients other than the mineral ingredients can be made in a small lab setup did anybody can do. So far this week I've made the half a pound of copper carbonate half pound of copper oxide for cupric oxide 5 lb of Whiting. All waiting is is calcium carbonate and you can buy it and it any store most grocery stores carry that product called damprid that is completely 100% pure calcium carbonate Whiting. You just grind it up into a fine fine powder done You can buy a can of root killer as long as it's 100% copper sulfate dissolve some of it in water without going into the chemistry just make a very dark solution Import off to make sure that there are no crystals left get yourself some sodium carbonate baking soda well sodium bicarbonate if you want sodium carbonate you bake it in the oven at 400 for a few hours. And then keep adding it to the copper sulfate solution until it stops fizzing it'll turn into copper II carbonate.
Jeez I reread what I wrote and it's full of autocorrect typos, lack of punctuation etc etc etc. I'm so sorry I have a physical disability and I use voice recognition and sometimes for some reason it doesn't screw up until you hit enter and by that time you're on to your next thought and miss it
@@JessicaPutnamPhillips I can't find G200! I have everything else, What is an alternate name for the g-200 I have absolutely everything else I just need the g-200 so I can try this help!
Yes, you can use the base recipe and try adding different oxides/minerals to it. I have used it with success with just a bit of Cobalt. Really anything that works well with a zinc based glaze can be used! :)
Thank you for this; I've been learning on my own for a while and your videos have been super helpful. I posted this recipe on Glazy: glazy.org/recipes/50221 I included links to this video and to your main site; if you would rather not have those let me know and I will remove them. Thanks again.
I don't get how do you fire a cone 5 glaze on porcelain? What I have been said is that you fire porcelain to 1300°C (cone 10) so it is confusing. Can anyone could explain it to me? thanks
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This was just what I needed. I am retired and taking a Glaze Chem online class, but needed reassurance that I was on the right track before plunging into my first tests.
Thank you! My head is spinning from all the glaze videos and I needed clarification
Glad it was helpful!☺️
Thank you so much for your generosity sharing glazes and your knowledge. The chun glaze comes perfect 👌
Thank you! This was a very straight forward and simple explanation of reading a glaze recipe. Very helpful as I start trying to mix my own glazes!
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Easy & excellent explanation in how to measure ingredients!
You are a delight to listen to about this complex subject. As a beginner I would like to hear tips and watch you measure the ingredients out as well. Glad you were able to dress warmer. Keep up the great work!
thanks again for your video
When I first started testing glazes, 19 yrs. ago, I never had the results pictured, whether from books or our trade mags, like Pottery Making Illustrated, etc. So many variables to consider, such as the origin of each ingredient, application thickness, kiln firing schedule, so many that I was sure that it was impossible to reproduce these glazes. It was when I learned, and I can't remember where, that WATER is an often overlooked ingredient. I began to use DISTILLED WATER for mixing, instead of my local tap or garden hose water. With only a slight variation from the originals, due in part to firing schedule, I found that I could get and repeat the results from whatever source I used. So simple, but try it!
YaYa Studio yes!! Distilled water will help eliminate one variable from the equation.... good advice!
Clever! That way you won't introduce extra calcium.
This is the video I needed thank you sm
Fir anyone interested, in the Mastering Cone 6 Glazes book, you can find them second hand, people are asking a lot for them. (I saw some for between $100-400!) Instead, the BookPatch.com is reprinting a black and white version for $25. To see the glaze examples, in color, you can go to masterglazes.com. The photos, in the book are, of course, just black and white.
Please do not change your informal presentation. You have given me the push to make some glazes in bulk. My students will love this! Please keep it real.
it's beautiful! I'm going to see if we can make this Chun Glaze in our community studio. thanks for the tips on that book too!
Your comment is 4 years old. How did it turn out?
Thank you . That helps me a lot.
Thanks a lot 👌
I needed this video!
very interesting
Thanks a lot...👏👏👏
Thank You! I don't know how many glaze books I've read and none of them say whether they're measured by weight or volume grams Grams Grams Grams.
I love Clayshare!
Thanks from Turkey, Bodrum
Wish you good liluck
Beautiful girl and beautiful art...i love it
Do you have another glazes recipe you like to share? I did the chin and I love it👍🤗
Marcia Johnson I have a bunch available on www.clayshare.com just sign up(it's free) and the glazes are all listed under resources. :)
What would I do to the ingredients if I just wanted to make a pint.
Hi Jessica, thank you for so kindly sharing your Chun glaze recipe. I'd love to try it. I'm from Wales (UK), so some ingredients are named differently, please can you tell me if the G200 is a potash feldspar or a soda feldspar, also is the OM4 a hyplas ball clay, or what would you recommend? Many thanks. Love your videos, as a newly graduated student I find them so helpful and inspiring. Keep up the good work 👍😊
tara squibb
Hi Jessica, Really love your videos! Any reccomendations for a white gloss glaze that I can paint underglaze over without the underglaze running? best!
I believe you can download the book. I know that I have it on my ipad.
Thanks for video, very helpful. I have John Britts book. Emailed him and he emailed me right back. Thanks also for book reference/resource
I wonder what the chun glaze would look like on white stoneware
okhomestead I've used it on laguna bmix, a buff stoneware and it looks similar as to the porcelain.. maybe a little less Blue but that's the only difference.
Can you make a recommendation for how to learn about these firing cones you speak of lol?
. Most ceramics suppliers have a table on their site or google Ceramic cone firing table and images of charts come up. Most ceramics books have one. In a manual kiln cones are placed in a kiln sitter (3 prongs set inside kiln). The cone rests on 2 and the 3rd sits on the cone. Cones all melt at specific temperatures and when the temperature is reached the cone slumps in the middle causing the 3rd prong to fall down which shuts the kiln off. Computerized kilns do not need a cone to shut off. Different clays fire at different temperatures, as do glazes. If you were to fire earthenware at porcelain temperatures the clay will basically melt out of shape. Bisques firing is generally quite low (anywhere from 08 to 04 depenmding on your clay body)If you were to fire an earthenware glaze (cone 04) at porcelain cone 10 the glaze would melt right off. Imagine a scale showing negative and positive numbers 0 being the middle. Cones are similar. cone 04 by comparison is on the negative side and cone 4 is on the positive side. Earthenware, Stoneware and true porcelain all have certain temperatures they should be fired at to reach their proper vitification (impermeability to water.) A long answer but it is an important aspect of firing. Check your local library. (This is a good book Beginner's Guide to Pottery & Ceramics : Everything You Need to Know to Start Making Beautiful Ceramics by Jacqui Atkin @ $20) and try this site for a table of cones: www.clay-king.com/kilns/pyrometric_cone_temperature_chart.html
Do you know what would happen if you put that glaze in a cone 9 reduction?
YEAH!!!!! Glazes
Can you buy the Chun glaze premixed??
Also my other issue was a totally different question pertaining to ceramic glazes vs glass glazes that you uses to color glass. You did a really good job with the ceramic glazes in this video but i also been wondering about making different color glassware. I imagine the way you color glass is completely different then the ceramic glazes maybe not . Just have found the relation/connection to coloring glass vs coloring ceramics with glazes yet. If you have the ceramic cookbook recipe can you derive how to color a type of glass recipe from it. Or is it completely unrelated cookbooks?
Hi Jessica ,
Thank you so much for your videos . I just started mixing m6 own glazes after 40 years of pottery making . I mixed up 100 grams of your chun , put it on b mix and speak led buff, Laguna Clay bodies. Fired to cone 5, both turned out a beautiful translucent green, kind of celadonish. Bummer, I was hoping for your nice opaque, sky blue . I have Jon Britts book....
My Chun needs to be applied thickly and if you sub for the G200 you have to use Mahvair Feldspar to get a good blue. Any other feldspar will make the glaze too green. :)
Jessica, can you make glazes with magnetic sand from San Francisco
Carolyn Brown hmmm... I'm not sure but it sounds cool to try. Why not make a few test glazes and see!
If you used ground up recycled colored glass bottles you get around the color issue because you know what your remelting interms of color in your glass... but starting from scratch with silica sand what to add to it to get a type of color and texture ...seems like its going to be another cookbook like problem similar to this video.
HI again Jessica, what do I use to make a semi opaque white glaze in replace of the copper
autumn green you could try using zircopax, it is an opacifier and should give you a nice satin opaque white. I'd do a few tests using it at different percentages before trying it on any large pieces.
O really nice explanation , so that's why i was have a difficulty trying to understand all glass and ceramic glazes... its not that simple its like a recipe. I wondered if anybody kept track of all the glazes in some ceramic glaze cookbook. Simple cooking math and good explanation on amounts and ingredients. Curious do you know if most pottery/ceramic studios just buy the chun recipe all premixed or do alot of ceramics studios make there own glazes?
It's expensive to use the premix so there is some cost saving to mixing yourself. But one needs to buy and sieve and chemicals in bulk, storage space, and scale etc. So no one has ever cost for me but I guess we could use a calculator. For some it might not be a saving.
Hi,please explain to me oxidation and reduction in electric kiln.Is it possible?Thank you
Mirjana Curanovic Oxidation is a kiln firing, where an abundance of oxygen is available, for the glazes and clay bodies to react with. This is normally done, in an electric kiln, but can be done in any kiln, as long as the fuel is fully combusted.
Reduction, is where there is a lack of oxygen in the kiln, resulting in the build up of carbon, starving the glazes and clay bodies of oxygen. This is done in gas and wood kilns.
Also, what is specific gravity of the Chun glaze and one from book that I can't find anywhere. Thanks
Allie Hunter I mix my Chun to a specific gravity of 47 :)
Having a problem finding G200 any suggestions?
G200 is no longer being mined :(
The replacement is Mahvair from laguna.It is not as good but it is all that is available.
I'm not sure if I missed this, but what ratio of water do you need? I thought certain glaze recipes need larger or smaller amounts of water. Im new to this so any help appreciated. Thank you!
Different recipes take more or less. Mix and measure on your fingernail or use a measuring device. She explains that in some of her videos.
G200 feldspar is discontinued. Can I use feldspar soda? Also, is the silica #325 mesh? Thanks. Great vid.
You could try Custer feldspar or minspar. I am currently testing both to find a sub that gives the same results as the g200
Look around suppliers G200 is available some places. Highwater for example
Allie Hunter
What kind of silica are you using? My supplier has different kinds. Does it matter which one I get?
BabyBlueKoi I use silicosil but any fine mesh silica should work.
Can you use any cone 6 recipes for a cone 10 Firing?
No. I'd start with cone 10 recipe from a top potter. You can always experiment as you go along.
10 or more % of zinc causes crawling?
Hi I totally tried this recipe and it totally flopped on me. I don't know why exactly. Goes able to find all the ingredients finally and I mix them on very very high quality scales but it turned very transparent bluish green and there was hardly any color. Nowhere near the color your achieving. I'm kind of wondering if the point five copper carbonate was a typo? I'm trying it again read it this moment with 1%
Its not a type-o you only need .5%. This glaze has to be really thick to get good color pay off. Also any substitutions will complexity change the glaze color. I have found that Mahvair is the best option as a sub for G200 but it is not nearly as good as the original feldspar. :)
@@JessicaPutnamPhillips I used minspar because a couple of gurus and my supplier recommended it is a direct replacement. I will trust you and try and get the other. My glaze was not super thick. It was actually thinner than I wanted it and I had thought about doing another quarter recipe and dumping it into send it out and I probably should have done that. By the way I instinctively added one drop of sodium silicate to smooth it out and I don't know if I should have sodium silicate I know you already know but I'm saying this anyway is a deflocculant.
The funny thing is where it was real thick I got beautiful perfect blue just like yours so perhaps that was it I just made it to watery. I came up with something I most nearly identical using the 5x20 bass recipe and 1% copper carbonate. I mean the color matches amazing I couldn't believe it but again it was too thin and to glassy. Not quite as bad as the original one and I'm sure now that I think of it it was just due to the amount of water I added. I'm still new to this so I'm not going to get too mad at myself at this point. I am however going to buy the tiniest Kiln that I can find for developing glazes. I don't want to run a kiln just for a handful of tiles you know?
Maybe I'll build one I got enough brick and I know and I made a big jig on my metal Mill to cut the channels for repair brick it works perfectly so I could actually just make a 2 element Kiln just for just for test tiles. Shit I could run it off of a variac and just turn it up 25% every two hours it would be perfect I am definitely going to do this maybe I'll send you some pictures
I really appreciate you helping me that's very nice of you. So now I am going to go down and reproduce this glazed one more time and leave it very very thick and I'll leave out the sodium silicate perhaps.
@@JessicaPutnamPhillips okay I have a major problem here I made it 24 hundred grand badge so I could actually dip and I'm going to sacrifice somebody times to dip and get a good amount of glaze on them. The problem is I made it a couple of days ago and every morning I go to stir it up again and the bottom is so hard that it takes me literally an hour to stir up. I've tried a little bit of V gum and it did basically nothing
Help! (:
Is it food safe?
Kevin Leong well I haven't had it tested in a lab so I can't say for sure but I have done leaching test with lemon and the glaze passed so I'd say it is. I've been using it for almost 10 years and have had no issues and there is hardly any copper in it so.....
If it is from Mastering Cone 6 Glazes, I'm fairly certain that it, foodsafe. They have quite a few liner glazes listed in there as well.
I'm new to glaze making and mixing but I have a chemistry background so it's quite enjoyable to me. Seeing your videos really help a lot with understanding how to mix and use the glaze. Great job! I wonder whether you could make a video on glaze toxicity due to heavy metal ingredients. I know that most people don't use lead or cadmium anymore, but Barium, Cobalt, Magnesium and Copper oxide or carbonate are still used a lot for colorant and they are generally toxic in high dosage.
One thing I noticed that a lot of blue glaze recipe including your Chun glaze here uses Cobalt carbonate or Cobalt Oxide for blue colorant. Most recipe uses 1 percent or less of Cobalt carbonate or oxide due to its toxicity in high level. I know you make a lot of food ware so are you worried at all about the presence of cobalt in your pottery? There are some leaching test technique and such to check for heavy metal leaching with makes it easier to check whether cobalt would leach out into food. What about the firing of cobalt being presence in your kiln? I read that some studios discourage using glaze with cobalt if they are firing food-safe pottery in the kiln. I love the blue color, but so far most of the recipes I have seen require using cobalt compound of some sort. I just started working in a community studio as a "glaze master" (fancy title for a newbie) that has a lot of kids so I'm very worried about any toxic chemical in general. Children can tolerate even lower dosage of chemical exposure than adults can.
Patrick Chaopricha Her chun glaze here uses copper carb., not cobalt.
Flyover Pilgrim Indeed. Though copper is also something to use carefully, when making functional ware. People with Wilson's Disease, accumulate excess copper in their bodies. So while some copper leaching, from a glaze wouldn't harm the average person, it would be a huge issue to someone with Wilson'.
The same is true with iron, and someone with Hemochromatosis.
I'm a hobby chemist and most ingredients other than the mineral ingredients can be made in a small lab setup did anybody can do. So far this week I've made the half a pound of copper carbonate half pound of copper oxide for cupric oxide 5 lb of Whiting. All waiting is is calcium carbonate and you can buy it and it any store most grocery stores carry that product called damprid that is completely 100% pure calcium carbonate Whiting. You just grind it up into a fine fine powder done
You can buy a can of root killer as long as it's 100% copper sulfate dissolve some of it in water without going into the chemistry just make a very dark solution Import off to make sure that there are no crystals left get yourself some sodium carbonate baking soda well sodium bicarbonate if you want sodium carbonate you bake it in the oven at 400 for a few hours. And then keep adding it to the copper sulfate solution until it stops fizzing it'll turn into copper II carbonate.
awesome!!! I never thought to make my own ingredients something for me to look in to! :)
Jeez I reread what I wrote and it's full of autocorrect typos, lack of punctuation etc etc etc. I'm so sorry I have a physical disability and I use voice recognition and sometimes for some reason it doesn't screw up until you hit enter and by that time you're on to your next thought and miss it
@@JessicaPutnamPhillips I can't find G200! I have everything else,
What is an alternate name for the g-200 I have absolutely everything else I just need the g-200 so I can try this help!
HI, can the copper be subsisted for another color/minerals?
Yes, you can use the base recipe and try adding different oxides/minerals to it. I have used it with success with just a bit of Cobalt. Really anything that works well with a zinc based glaze can be used! :)
Jessica Putnam-Phillips . So not chrome
She is the most beautiful pottery woman I've ever seen on the internet. Great video! :)
Thank you for this; I've been learning on my own for a while and your videos have been super helpful. I posted this recipe on Glazy: glazy.org/recipes/50221
I included links to this video and to your main site; if you would rather not have those let me know and I will remove them. Thanks again.
Please tell in hindi sister your video so nice
I don't get how do you fire a cone 5 glaze on porcelain? What I have been said is that you fire porcelain to 1300°C (cone 10) so it is confusing. Can anyone could explain it to me? thanks
J'aime ce que vous faites visuellement mais je ne parle que le français alors je suis frustré . Dommage que ce ne soit pas soutiré en francais.