Im trying this blackbasing thing , but after the black primer i do some marbling with a light grey color , then i also do a marble coat with the base color im painting (on current build , Middle stone and Dark earth) , i think it gives a bit bigger variation and not only to darker tones. Thanks for a lot of informative videos keep up the good work !
Good morning from Greece !!i want first say i am amazing fun of your video and the skill you have learn me more and more...you simple you have fun in that you do ..( i love your compressor ))) ..)and i will like to see more video and more build step by step ...have nice day and keep modeling !!!
Epic Matt. Thank you. I tried the black on black approach on an 02. It seemed to work, but if you ever wanted a better demo this white did it. What pressure are you using with the MRP? I use it as well as gunze heavily thinned like the MRP. Do you use a needle stop? My control needs some work as I am a lockdown refugee😂. Putting it in almost photography terms works for me. I always resisted putting too much paint on but the comment about black basing reducing that as well as allowing extra tones really makes sense. Had to laugh about the yellow SAR cabs. The RAF ones we worked with often got filthy so perhaps zinc chromate over black.... Great stuff. I will get into this on my next build (I tried it but didn't really get the concept). Our old Beaver AL1 was/is a patchwork quilt of greens and blacks with grey and white sheens where cleaning compounds have sucked the oil and dirt out better in some places than others. Being a radial she was always oily.
Another thought as to why this makes sense is, if you have ever sprayed a full size cab, it's difficult. I bet you won't get 100% consistent coverage, light may change so it looks right but needed another pass. Then there are repairs and mods.....weather that lot on a carrier deck with salt spray or even a pan in Germany and....😜
I think that this talk about "You can't paint yellow over black etc..." is because older paints were lower quality compared to modern paints. Some of new brands are just superior, they are so much better and easier to paint.
I'm in complete agreement. I learned about primer colors and paint in an automotive painters school. To get the best color value, here is what I found as far as 'reflectivity' using primer/color coats: Black for White paint. White for Yellow paint. Grey for everything else. HOWEVER: In modeling, black primer is perfect. Use white and grey primer for basic panel highlighting. Then hit it with a light color coat, nice and even. Add more color where and if you want a higher value. BLAMMO!
Slick DeGreis ppg uses a value system of greys as undercoats for their paint system....I believe yellow uses a lighter grey, in order to help hide the blends....
I realise you have finished you Blackbasing trials, but did you ever consider NMF. I am thinking about marbling with different metallic shades, maybe a touch of greys to give a distressed dirty metal finish. If you've done it or discussed it, I apoligise as I haven't found it yet.
Thanks for this Matt. What you did on the all white wing was the direction I was looking for when I do my Vietnam Marine Phantom. I know it comes down to personal preference, but I liked the look of the wing before you put down the overcoat, but that may be my eyes or my monitor playing tricks. I know this sounds dumb but I want to exaggerate contrast and color because the model is smaller, but I want to be subtle...now that's an oxymoron; subtle exaggeration.
that looks fucking great. Your videos are really good. easy to follow and understand. and, i can see where you're painting on the surface. lots of other people i can't. thanks for the info.
Actually, in the auto body/painting world, a medium to dark grey is usually called for under a red or yellow paint to aid in coverage and hiding, to eliminate the use of 30 layers of paint....
Great demo, not only of black basing, but small painting, and the incredible performance of MR Paints. thanks for sharing this technique. A question, if I may, are you locking the travel on your airbrush needle to maintain the small spray pattern?
In the end it turned out PRIMER GRAY LOL.... its cool black basing does work. I use it from time to time . but i use a dark grey instead of black primer. I just mix black into my tamiya prima for the right primer color and it comes out nice
The problem with pure black basing is not coverage perse anyway. The only direction you can go is darker tones when you start from a whole black surface. So original colors when weathered >> darker tones. You cannot go lighter tones. So this is the big "negative". The aircraft colors become *lighter* most of the time due to weathering. So if your start is pure black then that looks too dark at the end. Therefore, I prefer to go with gray primer then random black panel lines then the camouflage color. That looks more realistic to me.
I like black basing, then a marble of white or light grey, then the real color. If it's still not light enough, a bit of very thin marbling with a lightened shade finishes it off nicely.
MRP paint to hard to get ..mr.color that's the best paint for me iam a full time model builder and I use the black Basing alot for armor models I use it for a Worn paint effect I use that for all kinds of painting not just for airplanes .i love the Technique I use that everyday
Ermmmm....... I was into building models until about six years ago. I saw some articles, build etc of this guy. His hair wasn't Tamiya XF-87 then........ LOL.
Matt, shoosh, keep quite about these techniques, please! I'm trying to win all of the competition's I'm entering and besides they'll only abuse you for trying to help. Some things are best left unsaid my friend and those of us who are truly willing to learn from others are looking to and indeed will always excel. Those who don't or who think they know it all will fuck up time and time again and that's what keeps our hobby alive and well. More fuck ups, equals more model sales, equals more choice coming from the manufacturers...for us! 🤫👉🤯🤪😡👍👏😉
One of the best tutorial/explanations of this technique I've found.
Im trying this blackbasing thing , but after the black primer i do some marbling with a light grey color , then i also do a marble coat with the base color im painting (on current build , Middle stone and Dark earth) , i think it gives a bit bigger variation and not only to darker tones. Thanks for a lot of informative videos keep up the good work !
Good morning from Greece !!i want first say i am amazing fun of your video and the skill you have learn me more and more...you simple you have fun in that you do ..( i love your compressor ))) ..)and i will like to see more video and more build step by step ...have nice day and keep modeling !!!
Epic Matt. Thank you.
I tried the black on black approach on an 02. It seemed to work, but if you ever wanted a better demo this white did it.
What pressure are you using with the MRP? I use it as well as gunze heavily thinned like the MRP.
Do you use a needle stop? My control needs some work as I am a lockdown refugee😂.
Putting it in almost photography terms works for me. I always resisted putting too much paint on but the comment about black basing reducing that as well as allowing extra tones really makes sense.
Had to laugh about the yellow SAR cabs. The RAF ones we worked with often got filthy so perhaps zinc chromate over black....
Great stuff. I will get into this on my next build (I tried it but didn't really get the concept).
Our old Beaver AL1 was/is a patchwork quilt of greens and blacks with grey and white sheens where cleaning compounds have sucked the oil and dirt out better in some places than others. Being a radial she was always oily.
A6 zero perfect example of that bleached out white, that even some of the primer is showing thru from being in sand, humidity, wind, salt, and sun
Where do I get a voice activated air compressor?
Another thought as to why this makes sense is, if you have ever sprayed a full size cab, it's difficult. I bet you won't get 100% consistent coverage, light may change so it looks right but needed another pass. Then there are repairs and mods.....weather that lot on a carrier deck with salt spray or even a pan in Germany and....😜
Matt, I appreciate how you search for the right word to use.
I cannot wait for the ICM 1/48 OV-10 Bronco
I think that this talk about "You can't paint yellow over black etc..." is because older paints were lower quality compared to modern paints. Some of new brands are just superior, they are so much better and easier to paint.
Besides the video (amazing), I liked the model stand you have been using. Could you show how you fix the model to it ?
I'm in complete agreement. I learned about primer colors and paint in an automotive painters school. To get the best color value, here is what I found as far as 'reflectivity' using primer/color coats: Black for White paint. White for Yellow paint. Grey for everything else. HOWEVER: In modeling, black primer is perfect. Use white and grey primer for basic panel highlighting. Then hit it with a light color coat, nice and even. Add more color where and if you want a higher value. BLAMMO!
Slick DeGreis ppg uses a value system of greys as undercoats for their paint system....I believe yellow uses a lighter grey, in order to help hide the blends....
I realise you have finished you Blackbasing trials, but did you ever consider NMF. I am thinking about marbling with different metallic shades, maybe a touch of greys to give a distressed dirty metal finish. If you've done it or discussed it, I apoligise as I haven't found it yet.
Thanks for this Matt. What you did on the all white wing was the direction I was looking for when I do my Vietnam Marine Phantom. I know it comes down to personal preference, but I liked the look of the wing before you put down the overcoat, but that may be my eyes or my monitor playing tricks. I know this sounds dumb but I want to exaggerate contrast and color because the model is smaller, but I want to be subtle...now that's an oxymoron; subtle exaggeration.
that looks fucking great. Your videos are really good. easy to follow and understand. and, i can see where you're painting on the surface. lots of other people i can't. thanks for the info.
Actually, in the auto body/painting world, a medium to dark grey is usually called for under a red or yellow paint to aid in coverage and hiding, to eliminate the use of 30 layers of paint....
Great demo, not only of black basing, but small painting, and the incredible performance of MR Paints. thanks for sharing this technique. A question, if I may, are you locking the travel on your airbrush needle to maintain the small spray pattern?
brianc1701 nope - never been a fan of needle stops
What a brilliant video! Subscribed!
Great Video! I learned a lot!
Very helpful thanks for sharing.
Couldnt you this alot faster with a sponge?
Fantastic video, thank you!
In the end it turned out PRIMER GRAY LOL.... its cool black basing does work. I use it from time to time . but i use a dark grey instead of black primer. I just mix black into my tamiya prima for the right primer color and it comes out nice
Thank you. Very informative.
Just excellent 👍😃
Thank you !
The problem with pure black basing is not coverage perse anyway.
The only direction you can go is darker tones when you start from a whole black surface. So original colors when weathered >> darker tones. You cannot go lighter tones. So this is the big "negative". The aircraft colors become *lighter* most of the time due to weathering. So if your start is pure black then that looks too dark at the end. Therefore, I prefer to go with gray primer then random black panel lines then the camouflage color. That looks more realistic to me.
I like black basing, then a marble of white or light grey, then the real color. If it's still not light enough, a bit of very thin marbling with a lightened shade finishes it off nicely.
The worn out red would suit a Reich Defense Band on a 109 or 190.
MRP paint to hard to get ..mr.color that's the best paint for me iam a full time model builder and I use the black Basing alot for armor models I use it for a Worn paint effect I use that for all kinds of painting not just for airplanes .i love the Technique I use that everyday
Fine
Ermmmm....... I was into building models until about six years ago. I saw some articles, build etc of this guy.
His hair wasn't Tamiya XF-87 then........ LOL.
Three kids will do that
Red bands e.g. Spanish Civil War Republican aircraft!
Matt, shoosh, keep quite about these techniques, please!
I'm trying to win all of the competition's I'm entering and besides they'll only abuse you for trying to help.
Some things are best left unsaid my friend and those of us who are truly willing to learn from others are looking to and indeed will always excel. Those who don't or who think they know it all will fuck up time and time again and that's what keeps our hobby alive and well.
More fuck ups, equals more model sales, equals more choice coming from the manufacturers...for us! 🤫👉🤯🤪😡👍👏😉
L