My suggestion is that if you are doing a large transparent negative, you can add some steps to it to develop it so that it comes out in positive. Look up the Caffenol Reversal Process. You do not need to buy special film for this. It uses 3% drug store hydrogen peroxide and imitation lemon juice.
Really surprised that this vlog got so few likes compared to views. I'd heard of this method, and have been wanting to give it a go. Thanks for making the time for this.
Yep. Caffenol for my self spooled RPX100 is the cheapest way to get film developed. The other day I was gifted some caffee powder from a neighbor who bought the wrong product. So I did something against waste of food ;)
I've used Caffenol on both 35mm and 120film. With 35mm you definitely get more grain and contrast but not so noticeable with 120 film so on large format it's even less noticeable.
When I first discovered it a year or so back, I was reading blogs saying it was 'experimental' at best, but I've had surprising consistency with it. Not had a duff development so far.
Russell, your analogy of film and vinyl (read turntables) is spot on. I will also add vacuum tunes vs. solid state... music and photography has a lot in common as a form of art! I just acquired a Chamonix 45H1 and are getting a couple lens and accessories to complete the kit. I attached a link to my analog world! Cheers and stay safe. www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;album=2537
Well you can certainly develop colour negative film with regular black and white chemistry, though of course the result is a monochrome negative. I guess there's a chance you could dev with cafenol.
I've had repeated failures with caffenol recently, where beforehand my results with the same ingredients were good. I'm given to understand that it may be the washing powder gone bad (I keep it in a sealed tupperware container). I have re-tried my methods with commercial developer in place of the caffenol and keeping everything else the same, and this seems to have narrowed the trouble down to the developing stage. Any advice?
@@rjphotos This is what I was suspecting. I was using washing POWDER, i.e. either the monohydrate or unhydrated version, but I suspect that despite my best efforts with tupperware, it absorbed moisture and became the decahydrate.
You can use AquaSafe which is the stuff you use to make tap water safe for fish...that works in about 10 minutes. Or if you have 24 to 48 hours to spare you can use salt water at 300 grams of salt per liter of water.
Incredible...nice videos and enjoy very much! Cheers.
My suggestion is that if you are doing a large transparent negative, you can add some steps to it to develop it so that it comes out in positive. Look up the Caffenol Reversal Process. You do not need to buy special film for this. It uses 3% drug store hydrogen peroxide and imitation lemon juice.
Really surprised that this vlog got so few likes compared to views. I'd heard of this method, and have been wanting to give it a go. Thanks for making the time for this.
Try it. What have you got to lose? Experimenting is valuable even if you don't like the results.
Yep. Caffenol for my self spooled RPX100 is the cheapest way to get film developed. The other day I was gifted some caffee powder from a neighbor who bought the wrong product. So I did something against waste of food ;)
Very well made video! I will try this too one day
I've used Caffenol on both 35mm and 120film. With 35mm you definitely get more grain and contrast but not so noticeable with 120 film so on large format it's even less noticeable.
When I first discovered it a year or so back, I was reading blogs saying it was 'experimental' at best, but I've had surprising consistency with it. Not had a duff development so far.
Thumbs up from me Russell. Not a film shooter but love watching the process from start to finish - interesting use of coffee :)
It's not the kind of coffee you'd want to drink! Glad you enjoyed it though. Looking to get back into the hills for the next episode.
Russell, your analogy of film and vinyl (read turntables) is spot on. I will also add vacuum tunes vs. solid state... music and photography has a lot in common as a form of art! I just acquired a Chamonix 45H1 and are getting a couple lens and accessories to complete the kit. I attached a link to my analog world! Cheers and stay safe.
www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;album=2537
Will this work for 120mm film?
Yeah, and 35mm
Can you do this with color film?
Well you can certainly develop colour negative film with regular black and white chemistry, though of course the result is a monochrome negative. I guess there's a chance you could dev with cafenol.
@@rjphotos hello, sir. can i do this with cinema film (ecn2)?
I've had repeated failures with caffenol recently, where beforehand my results with the same ingredients were good. I'm given to understand that it may be the washing powder gone bad (I keep it in a sealed tupperware container). I have re-tried my methods with commercial developer in place of the caffenol and keeping everything else the same, and this seems to have narrowed the trouble down to the developing stage. Any advice?
Not sure. Could be the soda crystals I guess. Have they absorbed excess moisture perhaps? Only way to be sure is to buy a fresh batch of crystals.
@@rjphotos This is what I was suspecting. I was using washing POWDER, i.e. either the monohydrate or unhydrated version, but I suspect that despite my best efforts with tupperware, it absorbed moisture and became the decahydrate.
What film had you developed using this method?
Will have been fomapan 100.
Thank you!
You should really watch some of Bror Fredik's Vegas Vlogs, he has quite the following.
Only black or white or can you develop collor?
I develop the black and white myself but I send the colour to a lab.
I may have missed you saying it, but what did you use as a fixer for the developed film?
Possibly didn't mention it but it was ilford rapid fixer.
You can use AquaSafe which is the stuff you use to make tap water safe for fish...that works in about 10 minutes. Or if you have 24 to 48 hours to spare you can use salt water at 300 grams of salt per liter of water.