1997-2003 F250 F350 7.3L CPS F7TZ-12K073-B Change
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.พ. 2025
- Description: 1997-2003 F250 F350 7.3L CPS Sensor F7TZ-12K073-B Change
My 2001 F350 7.3L stumbles sometimes when i'm going down the freeway, it's not the first time it's done this so I knew what it was.
The 7.3 International CPS sensor goes bad sometimes, it either Fails or goes Intermittent. The OEM Ford 7.3L Diesel Camshaft Position Sensor (CPS) F7TZ-12K073-B should fit 1997-2003 Ford F250/350/450/550 7.3L Diesels.
1. If it fails, its very obvious, the engine just won't run and when replaced the engine runs. There are other things that cause the engine not to run, this is just one of them. Here's some other issues that may cause it.
2. If it's Intermittent the engine will have a subtle stumble or cut in and out.
3. There are three other sensors that commonly cause the engine to stumble or fail to start as well, they are the:
APPS/AGPS Accelerator/Gas Pedal Position Sensor (gas peddle assembly). Dorman 42229PY ~ $87.96
ICP Injection Control Pressure Sensor.
EBP Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor.
4. The easiest way to diagnose it, if you don't have computer software, is to change it. If that's not the problem then you have a spare sensor to put behind the seat of your truck so when it goes bad you'll have one, and one of them will go out, guaranteed.
Part Used in this video:
Ford CPS OEM P/N: F7TZ-12K073-B about: $27.00 off eBay.
The aftermarket ones cost about: $13.00 off eBay. I recommend using the Ford Part Number.
Tools Used:
10 mm 3/8" Drive Socket.
3" 3/8" Drive Extension.
6" 3/8" Stubby Ratchet.
1/2" to 3/8" Adapter, to break it loose, not shown in video.
1/2" Drive Ratchet, to break it loose, not shown in video.
Shop Rag, to break it loose, not shown in video.
Chemicals Used:
None this video.
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Thanks for watching. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith
I have watched 10 videos so far trying to explain this sensor change. Some going into excruciating detail of every wrench turn, but none of them showed exactly where this darn sensor is on the engine...except for this video. Well done brother!
Thanks Sehnsucht, I try to make my videos concise and easy to follow. Thanks for watching and the supportive words. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Just watched your video and it fixed my truck. I am a girl and you're video made it easy to fix. Thanks so much
That's a high compliment to here that someone who feels they couldn't fix there truck was able to fix it using one of my videos. My hats off to you for your sticking with it and doing the job yourself. These trucks are in their 20's and things are do go wrong with them more and more. Unfortunately getting a shop to fix diesels who KNOW what they are doing is getting hard for the 7.3L. However the great part about these trucks is most of everything on this truck can be fixed with regular mechanic tools in your driveway if you take the time to learn how to do it. Best thing as a 7.3L owner is to learn as much about them as possible. On TH-cam watch all the videos on Clint Allen's Channel Custom Works, then Powerstrokehelp, DieselTecRon and last FordmakuLoco. They are great resources of valuable information. Also join the FaceBook group I'm apart of here; facebook.com/groups/1861700010593406/ I'm known as Keith Dereck on it. Thanks for watching, and I'm glad you got your truck fixed. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
2001 f550 has been doing exactly this. I was told everything from injectors, oils pressure pump, or injector pump. Ran into a guy today and mentioned he had same issue and changed this sensor and it fixed it. Doing this as soon as weather breaks. Can't wait. Thank you for the video.
You're welcome Jason. Also their are a few sensors that can cause this as well. The CPS, the ICP (Injector Control Pressure) the IPR Injector Pressure Regulator) and the EBP (Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor). After you change the CPS if it doesn't fix it let me know and I'll try and help you find what the problem is. I don't know everything on these engines but I know more than most people who drive them, or at least know where to look for answers. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thanks for your excellent video on how to do this job. After checking for fault codes and finding none I decided the CPS was a good place to start. My symptoms were a random stumble - then CEL - followed by the engine stalling out within a minute or so later. Did this 3X on my last drive - the engine would fire right back up after cycling the key. So I just changed out my grey CPS for another Ford grey CPS and it went pretty well. Only struggle I had was getting that damn bolt started back in. Took me about 15 minutes of fiddling with it and I guess I finally got the angle just right. Ran it for 10 minutes in the driveway and so far so good. Test drive on the local mall outer drive to follow. I have a 2002 7.3l with 192K by the way.
Just changed the CPS in an older work truck that died at the shop ... good ole truck. Your video helped a bunch. Needed vice grips on the old CPS to turn and gently pry out with a pry bar. Truck is back out working for us again! Thank you and be Blessed Keith.
Wow that's great. Sorry I didn't replay earlier, but I never got a notification that I had a comment. Thanks for the thanks. Best Wishes and Blessings. Keith Noneya PS nice looking Sheppard.
My 1999 F250 would periodically be hard starting. A couple days ago this got much worse, regardless of engine temperature. I used this video to replace the Camshaft Position Sensor ($28) and it starts like new. Thanks for posting this video! PS. My F250 has 291,000 miles so I imagine more of these types of repairs are in my future.
Hi John mine has over 200K as well, I'm glad the video helped. Mine had some hard starting as well. I changed a few things and ended up finally changing the starter. Even though I could start it, it was very hard to get it started. Feel free to drop me a line anytime you have a problem with it. I'm not a diesel mech or a profesional meck, but I have done some research on them and have been doing automotive repairs for over 30 years on my own vehicles and some of my friends as well. Best Wishes n Blessings Keith
Keith Noneya don't give other people advise if our don't actually know anything. basically you would be guessing
Unless you have some expensive equipment and can prove beyond a shadow of a doubt that's the problem you're going to have to guess some times based on experience and what others say is probably the problems. The comments on my videos are for everyone to share their knowledge and experience. Yep I don't know everything about vehicles especially diesels, i'm new to them and I state that. Everyone should gather as much information within reason before replacing a part. I try to give advice based on my experience and knowledge and also inform them that's my guess. They are welcome to accept my guess or not. I helped a guy fix his car in Brazil once and never laid a hand on it. Many people have thanked me for helping them fix their vehicles with what I would call an educated guess. So though I appreciate your comment I'll continue to tell people what fixed my vehicle and try and help folks fix their vehicles. With 30 years of knowledge and experience I have a pretty good track record.
Best Wishes n Blessings
Keith Noneya. I had same problem you described. You described exactly what i was experiencing with my F250 diesel 2003. I changed the sensor with the help of your great video. Thought for sure that would fix it. But truck still won't start. Shouldl it take the truck a little while after new sensor installed to get fuel flowing and truck starting again, or should it crank right up? Also, i haven't tried cranking too awful much cuz i didnt want to kill battery, BUT the sound is making when trying to start definitely sounds better than it did before i changed sensor. It sound like fuel is actually trying to get the injectors firing, when before it sounded like no fuel was getting anywhere near the injectors/engine (i hope I'm describing this right). Any thoughts ??? Anything would help! TIA
Hi Ayla love the name. Sorry for the late reply I just saw your comment when I was going through some of my old ones. I don't know why but sometimes I don't get a notification of a comment from TH-cam. With over 160 videos up on my channel I can't monitor all the comments unless I know it's there, so again sorry I didn't see it earlier. Here's my take on it. First put an OBDII code reader on it and check the codes. If it's a sensor and you can find one cheap go ahead and change it.
- Here's some common things that can cause that problem assuming it's a diesel engine:
1. CPS. 2. ICP. 3. Clogged Fuel filter in the gas tank or on top of the engine. 4. High Pressure Valve regulator. 5. Low Temperature combined with bad glow plugs. 6. A weak starter in cold weather, below approximately 50 degrees. 7. Bad Fuel Pump.
- There are a lot of things that can cause that. I've listed some of the most common ones. So that's why I said put a code reader on it. Don't erase the codes until you figure it out. Some computers keep a history that if you have a code reader that can interface with your computer you can check the history for some of the common codes. You can pick up a cheap code reader on line for around $20.00 bucks. The interfacing software for some of them can get expensive so shop around. If you can get it to an auto parts store, most will pull the codes for free. Hope that gets going in the right direction.
Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
Good camera work! Thanks for the video. Changing the cps didn't solve my problem, but it seemed like a good place to start changing it. I'll search through the rest of your channel to see if I can find similar issues.
Thanks Steve, what's the problem?
Everything electric just shut off, most of time it's briefly, for a second then continues running. Twice it required a restart. When running there is no major issues with power or idle. Just a lot of oil leaking (just spent 4G on sealing all that), and maybe a cold start issues (but it has been single digits here. Any thoughts? Thanks.
When you mean electrical does that include lights, radio etc, or just the engine.
All meaning all, engine, lights, radio everything. The truck is completly dead now wont restart this time, so it time for a tow truck and off to the shop.. Thanks for your time.
AH Crap man I feel for you. There is a ton of stuff that can cause that. It's usually the battery connections or a fuse box connection going bad. Let us know how it works out Steve.
Thanks for watching. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thank you! I was finally able to fix my truck. I could not figured out why she will quit running in the middle of the road. I changed the sensor in minutes, the next day I drove 16 hours to Northern IN without a single issue. I can trust my truck again!
Cool I like it when plan comes together. Another 7.3L humming down the road as it should. It's funny I when I watch my older videos because sometimes I would have edited it differently. I like to get mostly straight to the point now, with Tools, Parts and Chemical list. My truck has been doing pretty good, not that it normally gives me problems, it doesn't. It has over 220,000 miles on it and is humming along fine. Some other notable TH-camr's to watch on the 7.3L diesel I like are Powerstrokehelp and Trey Spooner. One of the things I do to keep my truck running good, and more importantly to know how to fix it, is I like to watch 7.3L repair videos from time to time. You never know when the maintenance bug is going to crawl into your truck. I learned from watching 7.3L videos is when the truck gets over 150,000 miles it's a good time to start changing sensors before they fail. Its also a good idea to keep a couple of spare sensors in the storage area behind the rear seat. notably the CPS, ICP and the EBP Sensor Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor. Although the EBT sensor almost never fails it's one of those sensors that can reek havoc on your truck running and the CPS as you know can stop your truck altogether. Most of these sensors are around $25.00 bucks so it's not big deal to by them over a few months and throw them in the back.
Thanks again for the nice comment and watching. Best Wishes n. Blessings. Keith
Good stuff brother! Very informative
Welcome bud! Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Ps if you have a 7.3L you should join the Group "7.3L Powerstroke Nation" on FaceBook here; facebook.com/groups/1861700010593406 I'm on there a lot under the name Keith Dereck, and there's a lot of good talent there to help you with your truck if you need it. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Got a 2001 250 7.3@@keithnoneya
@@francinesantoro1428 They can be nice rides for sure, love mine. To make it ride smoother I installed those Sulastic Shackles and it made a huge difference in ride quality. At the time I purchased mine they ran me right at $800.00 with a discount because I called them and asked for it. Super nice folks. However these are a SERIOUS pain in the but to install. Took me and my son 8 hours each side to do them, front 8 and rear 8. If you do them put the truck high on jack stands and take the wheels off and drop the axles as LOW as you can get them. It definitely was worth the hassle for sure. Here's a link to them if you want a better ride. www.sulastic.com/en/4dr%20Crew%20Cab%20Lariat%204WD%20SB%20(5.4L%208cyl%205M)-1 Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thank you for the great video. I just changed mine but I came at it from underneath. My AC Unit and associated bracket were in the way on top. Easy peasy. Took about 45 minutes.
That's good I'm glad it helped. I came at mine from the bottom too. As far as I know that's the only way to do it. Anyways always feel free to ask any questions. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
Well done video. I'm off to change mine right now. Thanks for the help!
Thanks Noah. Hope all goes well for ya. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Quick question does this sensor makes the difference on how the truck runs? Means does it cause the truck to have rough idle and late pickups? Mine have a longer start and it drives rough means late to pickup when I throttle. Thanks and great way of explaining
The CPS can if it goes intermittent cause some intermittent run issues but not late pickups. Here's some things that can cause those problems;
1. Late pickups is usually what's call Turbo Lag as the Turbo spools up. This can be fixed by changing the Turbo Wheel to a 14 Blade Wicked Wheel at around $90.00, well worth the price.
2. Late pickups can also be the nut on the IPR which holds the Coil in place. If the coil is allowed to move it can cause the IPR internal valve to lag or move erratically.
3. Another often overlooked item is the PPS (Peddle Position Sensor) throttle peddle on the floor board. Internally it has a carbon resistor that after thousands of wipes from using the throttle goes intermittent. This usually in the form of pushing on the throttle and the engine stay at idle, or going down the road and the engine surging when otherwise it doesn't. Get up to speed and when it starts to surge put the cruise control on. If the surging goes away and the truck maintains speed it's most likely the PPS. They cost around $70-100.00
4. Low oil level. The engines run the injectors on oil pressure, if your oil is below the dip stick level it can cause air to be sucked into the injectors and cause it to run rough.
5. Low fuel tank level because the Fuel Pick Up Tube breaks off and starts to suck air into the fuel lines. This normally happens if the gas tank is at or around 1/4 tank of gas. This one is easy to diagnose, just make sure you have 1/2 of gas and drive it a few miles. If the problem goes away it's most likely the Pick Up Tube in the tank.
6. Hard starts. Bad Glow Plugs or Glow Plug Relay. The Wait to Start light goes out but if some of the Glow Plugs are bad it will cause a hard start in cold weather. On the intake there is also a IAH (Inlet Air Heater). This works in conjunction with the Glow Plugs, it also has it's own relay. Try this video on how to troubleshoot them; th-cam.com/video/WSx8eh9aYdY/w-d-xo.html.
7. The ICP may cause some of these problems I have a video on how to change it and do a poor mans diagnosis on it here: th-cam.com/video/ocUbWuGNcvw/w-d-xo.html
I hope that gives you a few things to check and points you in the right direction. If you need to do some other work on your truck I have a playlist just for these trucks on my channel here; th-cam.com/play/PLVLXGvrQp0OtT4QJeMKZ764rC2A87eiXz.html Feel free to contact me anytime and if I can help I will. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya PS I routinely contribute to posts on FaceBook in a Powerstroke group here; facebook.com/groups/1861700010593406/ It's a pretty good group. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Hi - I got the old CPS sensor out but am really struggling getting the new one to seat all the way in. Did yours easily slide back in all the way? Mine goes in to just past the O ring, but then doesn't want to go in any further. Have spent a couple of miserable hours under the truck trying to get it in...any advice?
Mine went it pretty easily. Try putting some grease or Vaseline on it. Also compare the diameter of where it goes in with the old one. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thank you. Saved me 115 in shop labor
You're welcome Smokestrong that's why I make them. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thanks for video
.. I hope this is that who make the problem for my 7.3 😀
Google Translate. I hope so too, the IPR can also cause a no start and the ICP as well. If you think it's the ICP you can just unplug it and try and start it. If it starts then either the wire is bad or the ICP is. Usually it's the one of those three that will cause a no start in warm climates. If it doesn't solve your problem let me know and I'll try and help. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Penerjemah Google. Saya harap demikian juga, IPR juga dapat menyebabkan tidak adanya start dan ICP juga. Jika Anda pikir itu ICP, Anda bisa mencabutnya dan mencoba dan memulainya. Jika mulai maka kabelnya buruk atau ICPnya buruk. Biasanya salah satu dari ketiganya yang akan menyebabkan tidak ada permulaan di iklim hangat. Jika itu tidak menyelesaikan masalah Anda, beri tahu saya dan saya akan mencoba dan membantu. Salam & Doa Terbaik. Keith Noneya
very useful video, I change my and works perfecto.
great video... well done... nice explanation of the whole process .....
You're welcome Serma. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Dude please take your wedding ring off when ever you are working on any vehicle! Gold or silver is a great conductor of electricity!
It's one of the best conductors in the world. Been working with electricity and electronics, and aircraft for over 37 years and cars longer than that. I'm very well aware of where and when its safe to wear my ring, and how to be safe with it. Thanks for caring and the comment.
Nice drag videos, the blue Nova Yours?
Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith
Dude its 12 volt direct current he is good to go
yeah my mother melted her ring to her finger changing a battery on a riding lawn mower. not pretty
I almost got my finger dropping off after I shorted the battery terminal... so painful
Mine is having a hell of a time going back in!
Wipe out the hole with some gasoline on a rag. Dry it with a paper towel, and grease the hole and the sensor o-ring and try it again. Hope you get it fixed bud. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya PS don't use sand paper, you don't want that in your oil to get into your injectors, as oil is used to activate them. Keith
@@keithnoneya thanks👍 I think I got it in tight now. Twisted it a bit while pushing and then tightened down the bolt to snug the connector in all the way.
Hey man my truck is losing power any idea
Could I put a longer bolt if I stripped the original bolt or would it hit something inside
I don't really know on that one. Way I see it is you have three options.
1. Use a vacuum cleaner and drill and tap it to a bigger bolt. The vacuum cleaner is to help keep any metal shaving from getting into the crank case and contaminating the oil in the engine. If you get metal in you engine oil it could ruin it.
2. Use a vacuum cleaner and drill and tap it and put a hela-coil in it.
3. Clean the hole out as well as possible and put some JB Weld in it then screw a stud in there and use a nut to hold it on.
4. Other than that I think you'll have to take it to a professional mechanic.
Hope this give you some viable options and I hope all works out well for you. Let me know. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
Ok, I think that is what my problem is. I called 2 auto shops for the sensor $22.00 at 1 and $24.00 at the other. God I hope I get off that cheap, I just changed the water pump last week. I called a couple of shops for the water pump, one said $600.00 and the other said $800.00 for a 2 1/2 hour job to change it out. I bought the pump for $137.00 a thermostat for $10.00 and 3 gallons of 50/50 coolant for $54.00 with tax $207.00. Saved some money, so yesterday I was about 2 miles from my house doing about 45 mph and my truck just stalled, died. I put in neutral and tried starting it nothing, like I was not getting fuel. Had it towed home, it cranks but won't start. Checked fuses, I had a friend bring his code machines over and neither showed any codes. I have some commitments and I will change it out Tuesday and let you know if that was my problem.
Yep know hot that feels for sure. I keep a spare CPS behind the seat just in case I'm on a trip I can swap it out quickly. The other thing that can cause that is the ICP, although it's less likely. Try starting the truck again, if it does I would think it's the CPS. If it doesn't start pop the hood and and disconnect the ICP and see if it starts. If it starts change the ICP. Now the ICP is not needed to run the truck it's needed to ensure it gets better mileage by ensuring the computer sends the right amount of fuel to the injectors. If the ICP is disconnected the ECM will assign it a generic Injector Pressure. You'll loose some mpg but the truck will run. The other problem can be the IDM Module, Injector Driver Module, they're about $225.00 on eBay, $350.00 on Amazon and about $500.00 out in town at your local Automotive Parts Stores. You can try a wrecking yard as well. The connector for the ICP is on the right front of the engine at the corner of the valve cover. I have a video on how to change one here: th-cam.com/video/ocUbWuGNcvw/w-d-xo.html Also try this video by Stephen Cox No start/dies: th-cam.com/video/RdQcUthHa40/w-d-xo.html Hope that help point you in the right direction. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Ok, Kieth picked up a cam senor at Oreillys $24.35 on my way home yesterday day evening. Got up early and put it in, took about 1 hour to put on. Truck fired right up, turned off and started again. Going back in a bit to pick up another one for backup. Good thing I wasn't out there four wheeling lookin for deer, you will lose your power steering and hard to get brakes to work properly. Anyway I really want to thank you for your video, great job. What is bad when this went out it didn't show any codes. Again thanks !
Glad to help Pete. Yeah that would have really sucked to be stuck out in the woods. Keep some basic tools with you when you go out just in case. It's not a bad idea to keep a IPR and wrench with you as well. Both the CPS and the IPR will leave your stranded. On the Code issue, yeah that's one of the dumb things that Ford did however "IF" you pay attention to the Tachometer when cranking, & IF the CPS is good you'll get a few hundred RPM on the Tach. It's just learning the little things about the truck and how to diagnose it. Once you figure those out it's not to hard to know what to look for. Oh look up the valve cover Quarter trick, you'll love that one, LOL. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Hello Keith! I have a truck F550 7.3 Diesel 2001, and there is a problem when I'm driving slowly, it can turn off several times when standing in the parking lot , can turn itself off, but when i go quickly such a problem does not exist. (Starting good, no problem)
maybe CPS sensor or not? Thank you so much!
(Ssory for my English)
Hi, Vladimir. Put a Code Reader on it to see what the computer says. There are several parts that cause a 7.3L to do that. Here are a few parts to consider: CPS, ICP IPR. Also there a few guys on YT who could answer your questions better than me, as i'm not a diesel mechanic. I would ask these two guys that question:
FordTechMakuloco here:th-cam.com/users/FordTechMakulocofeatured &
Trey Spooner Here: th-cam.com/video/fzdRwjo4pbY/w-d-xo.html
Hope my suggestions help you. Thank you for watching. Best Wishes and Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thank you so much ! I really appreciate it.
We have the same exact truck. How did it turn out?
@@jasons6281 crankshaft position sensor and all problems are gone 👍
Can I have a bad CPS if truck still starts hard rough idle around 500 rpms keeps dieing check engine light coming on
If the CPS is intermittent then I suppose that could cause that problem, but that's unlikely as they normally just outright fail.
The first thing to check is to see if the Check Engine Light is on when it's actually running. If it is, put a OBDII scanner on it and pull the codes. Change or diagnose those problems then try again to see if it runs as is should.
You can get a good reliable BAXF OBDII scanner on Amazon for around $20.99. Then download the Paid Torque PRO App to your phone. It will tell you everything going on in your engine. Fuel pressure, Oil Pressure, HIPOP Pressure etc. A good video to watch on that is here: Patrick Baptist's th-cam.com/video/aW_iP3dhQWM/w-d-xo.html
More than likely, if it starts then quits, it's fuel related or a bad sensor. Pull the pigtail off the ICP sensor on the drivers head near the radiator. Then see if it starts and runs, if so change the ICP sensor.
A lack of fuel pressure or enough fuel getting into the cylinders will keep the truck from running once started.
- Lack of fuel on these is normally caused by blocked filters in the fuel tank and a bad fuel bowl filter. Sometimes it's the fuel pump but that's rarer but not impossible.
- Lack of enough fuel getting into the cylinders can be caused by a bad HIPOP (High Pressure Oil Pump) or a bad IPR (Injector Pressure Regulator), those are common problems. The reason is the HIPOP and IPR regulate the oil pressure that opens and closes the Injectors to let the fuel into the cylinders. So if those are bad or intermittent you'll get a start but no run issue.
Hope this points you in the right direction to look up some videos to help you check those items. If you have anymore questions feel free to ask, I don't know everything but I do know a few things on these motors.
Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
@@keithnoneya thanks dude appreciate it
Great video thanks i will be doing this to my truck verry soon... my symptoms will be that kinda has a rough idle amd as im going down the road and let go of the peddal my idle sounds like choppy amd as soon as i get to a stop it idles fine again ... any advice
Also i have a ts6p tuner and when i have it in 50-70-100 it kinda shakes a little but when i put it in 140+ the engine sounds so smoth no issues no choppy idle or nothin i just dnt drive it in that setting cus its to rough on the tranny
One of the other things that causes it is a bad Accelerator Pedal Assembly, or an intermittent IPC/ICP Injector Control Pressure Sensor. A good way to determine if you have a bad ICP is to just disconnect it and if the issue goes away then you have a bad ICP. Make sure and replace it soon or your fuel efficiency with suffer. The Accelerator Pedal is similar, except at idle it runs smooth and when you press on the pedal is just stays at idle or goes intermittent. Let us know how it turns out. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
Keith Noneya well i unpnpluged the sensor earlier today and the problem continued the same or even got worse started hearing that little skip when leting go off the peddal or at idle in every stage of the tune as soon as i plugged it in it worked fine again
It only does it when im driving and let go off the pedal and its just start slowing down until it gets down to 10 mph the idle returns to normal ... ill continue looking for the issue if i find it ill let u know thank u
Sounds more like the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor. Mine did pretty much the same thing until I changed it. Unfortunately they are not cheap about $90.00 on eBay. If you have a junk yard around you may be able to get a used one for around $20.00 bucks. Or if you have a friend who has the same APPS you can try and swap them. Here's a link to one on eBay for my truck so you know what I'm talking about. This is just a guess, but the APPS does go intermittent some times and causes the engine to act funny. Inside the APPS there is a carbon variable resistor with a metal wiper on it. Over time the Carbon wiper gets worn down and goes intermittent, and the only way to fix it is to change the APPS. Here's the eBay item number: 371070777553 It's a Dorman 699-203. Just check the year on your truck if you do decide to buy one. This one is for a 2001-2003. Some of the earlier models have a pot you can change on them instead of buying the whole pedal assembly. Unfortunately unless you have some expensive diagnostic tools the only way to find out is to hit the forums and change parts until you find. It. Hope this helps point you in the right direction if it's not the CPS. Keith Noneya
Where can you find a gas pedal (throttle) position assembly sensor for $80?
That was video was made in Oct 2015 so the price has gone up to $87.96. Do a search for Dorman 42229PY or look up eBay Item number 392125497290. Hope that helps point you in the right direction. If the price is too high, you'll have to do a lot of digging around to find it lower. It took me about 2 minutes to find that on eBay. You can also call around to the auto parts stores and see if you can get a reasonable deal, it will be higher than that I'm sure. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
the bolt on mine was frozen in there and it's stripped out the head of the bolt now I've got to figure out how I'm going to get the bolt off with a stripped head.
If you can get the truck to start and run for awhile the cast iron block will expand and sometimes it's enough to try and tap a metric socket or a 6 point socket on it and that may be enough to loosen it. Also a long chisel on the side of the bolt and some light tapping can sometimes start to move it. Then put a pair of needle nose pliers on the head to try and turn it. Worst case scenario is to mig weld a bolt on the head of the bolt that won't come out and then try and remove it that way.
Keith Noneya I ended up having to use an extractor socket.
Thanks for the input!
Glad it worked out for you. Gonna have to get me a set of those. Funny I have a lot of tools, but I don't own a set of those. Looked them up $30.00 bucks on ebay. Keith
Keith Noneya they definitely work wonders it sure saved me from having to pull out the radiator, grill, etc. just to remove a bolt. Sometimes you have to pound on the extractor with a hammer if the bolts being stubborn and still won't turn or if the extractor still slips on the head of the bolt.
Good job explaining this..Thanks
You're welcome. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith
Thank you for posting this! Mine malfunctions when it gets wet. I’ve been in the desert and haven’t worried, but now I’m in a snowstorm so there’s a good chance it’s gonna go out. Now I know how to change it! Thank you!!
You're welcome Melessa. If you get some put some connector grease on the contacts to help keep the moisture out. CRC makes some it's in a red can that you can pick up at most automotive stores.
Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
Hey Keith me again i have another problem with my truck ,2001 7.3, when i dont drive the truck for a couple of days i go to crank it and it wont start it cranks but rpm guage stays at 0 do you think it could be a cps? Ford wants $160 to see if thats what it is.
Thank you
That can be the problem, but normally it's after it warms up. Pull the ICP connector and then see if it starts. If it starts then it could be the ICP sensor. If you want to do the CPS sensor that's not a bad idea, they do go bad often so it's always a good idea to keep one behind the back seat, I do! If it's not the CPS then just throw it behind the seat as your spare. If it'sCOLD outside, say below 50 degrees, it could be a few things.
1. The Glow Plug Relay, is the primary culprit.
2. The Glow Plugs themselves. It's kinda rare for all of them to go out. You can ohm them out to find the bad ones. There's a few videos on line on how to do that.
3. The IPR (Injection Pressure Regulator) behind the High Pressure Oil Pump.
4. IAH Inlet Air Heater or the IAH Relay. Most of the time it has to be pretty cold, below 30 degrees I think before that one comes on. It's the power part that the cables hook to on the Y-Pipe on the top of the blower. The relay for it is usually taller and sits on top of the engine right in front of the Glow Plug Relay.
Here's some Pat Numbers that may apply for the items so you know what they look like:
- Glow Plug Relay: 2-DR1092, DY861, 1802-258545, 258545, ECHGPR110 & RY-525
- Inlet Air Heater Relay: RY-698, R6203, AR6203 & NAPA SKU ECH: AR6203
- Inlet Air Heater: F81Z-9N424-BA
Hope that points you in the right direction. I have a video up on how to repair the Glow Plug Relay for an emergency fix until you can get a replacement up on my channel. Feel free to ask question as needed. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
@@keithnoneya thank you very much
@@keithnoneya it did smoke (white smoke) till it warmed up very little though it smelled like raw diesel
@@keithnoneya the problem has since been gone but the one thing i forgot to say is that the first time i would crank it wouldnt start the 2nd time i cranked it it would fire right up as if nothing was wrong. Pretty wierd huh?
@@andrewcavazos70 Hey Andrew Yall, have a good Thanksgiving! So after you changed the CPS the problem went away? At least that's how I read it. Oh white smoke in the winter is normal until the engine heats up a little. Keith
does your truck have the dual alternators?......mine does, and I can't even get my hand up in there....
Sorry Darryl mine doesn't have dual alternators, and I haven't changed any dual alternators either. So bummer, I won't be much help for you on how to get around the alternators. The only up side is at least you know where it and the bolt is that releases it. Let me know how you end up getting it out. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
@@keithnoneya ...the bottom alternator is right in the way....I think I'll need to use a couple of screwdrivers just to get the clip off....it's that tight in there.....God forbid....I may have to break down and bring it into the shop....
Oh SCREW that, the cost would be a lot. I would just remove the alternator before I pay someone around $250 to change a $25.00 part. Because you know they're going to pull that alternator to get to it. Anyways that,s my take on it. If you do the job you should video it and put it on your channel to help others with the same problem. Heck you might find making videos to help others it fun. That's how I got into doing it. My friends say my channel and said I should monetize it and make some cash on the side. So I did. Now I make videos for fun, to help folks and make about $230.00 a month on my vehicle videos. I also have friends all over the world, some in my home town. Anyways let me know how it goes. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
@@keithnoneya ...you make a good point, but I live in Wisconsin, and we are in the midst of an early, COLD winter......I plow snow with this truck, and unfortunately, I don't have access to a large, heated garage...all the while, it could snow any time, and I have to be ready....I plowed 3 days ago, and it shut down several times within just an hour or so....time is money...and down time is not an option....(just ask my customers)....if this were summertime, I'd tear down half the front end to get at that damn sensor, knowing that the truck can sit for days (or weeks), and I wouldn't HAVE to use it.....great suggestion on making videos, but I'm old school.....I still have a flip phone....REALLY....LOL....but it IS something to consider...I'll keep you posted....cheers...Darryl...
UPDATE:...H A L E L U J A H !!!!!!......I got under my truck and stared at the CPS area today....scratched my head for a while....and figured out a way to do it....with dual alternators, you have to "feel" your way around the CPS sensor area....you have to come in at it from the driver's side, snake your hand underneath, and feel around for the plug.....I unplugged it, and then used a 1/2" drive 3" wobbly extension along with a 10mm deep socket....snaked all that in, attached the ratchet....all by feel....loosened the bolt, took it out, and wiggled the sensor out....installed the new one in opposite fashion, attached the plug.....and.....V R O O M !!!!......SHE FIRED RIGHT UP!!!!.....took it for a 10 mile spin....and so far....no abrupt shut offs.....I'll keep my fingers crossed for a while....my check engine light is still on, though.....thanks Keith, for the stern pep talk.....cheers!!
Good detailed video, thank you!
Hey thanks Dan. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith
I have a Ford F-250 1999 and the issue with it is that it turns off from time to time when driving but only when it rains , will this fix that issue ?
+Jose Lopez Hi Jose that's a new one on me, only when it rains. It definitely sounds electrical to me. I'd pull as many connectors as I could and take them on and off several times to loosen up any corrosion or contaminates in the connections. Then spray some connector cleaner in them, then apply some connector grease or lube to help keep the moisture out. CRC makes some good products along these lines. I'd also take a good look at the wiring around the bottom of your truck as well. Pull any cods you can and maybe that will point you to the circuit that's having the problems you're talking about. I'd grab a hose and poor water on the hood and as soon as it shuts off I'd look where the water went and check the connectors that have water on them. You may also try some forums as this sounds like a very unique problem. You could wiggle the connectors to while it's running and see which ones cause it to shut down. If it's just dropping to idle but runs then it's most likely the TPS Throttle Position Sensor (Accelerator Peddle). Post some more indicators and things you've tried already. A YT video post would probably get you the best comments from those who have had the problem or know someone who has fixed it. Please keep me posted would love to hear how this one is fixed. Best Wishes n Blessings Keith
did you ever figured it out about your problem?I'm having the same isue
Thanks man
You're welcome Tim. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Perfect, Thanks
+Sarah Stolting Thanks Sarah. Did you have to change one? I have one on the front shocks on the F350 too. Also have one in work on how to fix the overhead Mileage, Compass display as well. I try to make all my videos so that someone can watch them, know to the tools and techniques to do the job, including part numbers and where to get the parts and approximate cost. Well chat with ya later if you have any questions or comments drop me a line. Best Wishes/Blessings Keith
A great video
Thanks Randy. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Great video by the way
I have a 2001 f350 7.3 and it ramdomly goes to idle while driving does anybody know what it could be? I have a video on my channel, im leaning towards a bad accelerator pedal. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Andrew, I looked at your video. it's a very common problem. It should be the PPS Peddle Position Sensor better known as the accelerator or gas peddle. You can pick one up on eBay or Amazon for around $80.00 bucks or you can go and get one a the junk yard.
Keith Noneya i changed the pedal and problem sovled for the 50 miles i drove it!!! Thank you for your advice, i had been trying to track down the problem for months. If you find anymore "quirks" keep in touch.
Thank you
You're most welcome Andrew. I put videos up on my F350 7.3 videos to help folks just like you. I post F350 videos from time to time so check back every few months. I highly recommend watching a TH-cam Channel called PowerStrokeHelp. Bill Hewllette has one of the best YT channels on Ford Diesels out there anywhere. I found how to fix several of my problems by watching all of his 7.3L videos. Here's a link to his Channel th-cam.com/users/powerstrokehelp. The 7.3 International engine is know world wide as one of the best diesel engines ever produced and is a highly prized motor from those in the know. If you take care of it you can get a million miles out of it. Of course you'll have to change the usual water pumps, alternators etc. Anyways feel free to ask questions anytime and thanks for watching. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
I found it easier to loosen the belt
Interesting idea, I don't think I would have thought of that. However I was able to easily work around it without having to loosen the belt. Thanks for the idea for anyone else who will watch the video. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
What kind of oil
Hi Ray I use Rotella. However I've been thinking on switching to AmsOil on the advice of Bill Hewllette from PowerStrokeHelp see this video. th-cam.com/video/gmMfsGpb_L4/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching.
Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
Did that did not work what could it ge
Hi Gary there are few things that can cause a crank but not start. Here's a few to check. 1. Oil Level, low oil will not activate the injectors. 2. IPR (Injector Pressure Regulator), is very common if it's not the CPS. It sits in the engine valley on the drivers front under the HIPOP.
3. IDM (Injector Driver Module), it's under the Drivers fender in front of the door hinges and is the primary signal 100VAC going to turn on each of the Injectors.
4. PCM (Powertrain Control Module ECM).
5. HIPOP (High Pressure Oil Pump) It drives the oil pressure above 500psi to around 1,000 PSI to drive the injectors when the IDM sends a signal to them.
6. Low Fuel Pressure. If the Fuel Filter gets clogged or the Fuel Tank Pick Up Tube filters get clogged it won't start.
7. Fuel Pump. It's on the inside of the frame under the drivers seat. You can test that by opening the Yellow Water Drain valve on the back of the Fuel filter bowl and cranking the engine. If fuel comes out in force when turning the key over it's most likely good. Don't forget to close the valve when you're done testing. The other ones you pretty much need an OBDII Bluetooth Scan Tool and Forscan Automotive Software or Torque Pro. to monitor the other pressures. You can get a BAXF scanner on Amazon for under #$30.00 bucks, and frankly if you own one of these trucks you need one. I hope that points you in the right direction for other things to look at. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya PS if you send me an email I'll send you a picture on how to diagnose a "Crank No Start Flowchart". Keith_noneya@att.net I'll check my email tonight and send it to you if you send me a email address to send it to. I don't spam so don't worry about that. Keith
I just bought a 2001 f450 7.3 disel yesterday, when I was driving it all of the sudden I blow a tire and called tire guy and came and fixed it,, after that I try to go again and it had no power at all Only doing 5 miles an hr ,, had to tow it to my house
Wow that's not good. There are a ton of things that can cause that. Connect an OBDII reader to it and see if you get any codes.
Last year i put a water pump on my truck and i could have easily changed mine at the time. O well, i need the experience i guess
Yep the trucks are getting over their 20's now. However preventative maintenance keeps them reliable and still very useful. I know guys who still do Hot Shot across country with these old trucks daily. They are not fast or flashy but if maintained they're very reliable. They're easy to fix on the side of the road and parts are cheap compared to the new trucks. One of the cool things on them is you an put the newer front and interior in them and have all the creature comforts of a modern truck while having the reliability of a 7.3L. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
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