Thanx for this video. I Just purchased this same Dewalt Planer. Waiting for delivery. How about a video on how you set up your workshop to collect dust with machines like this. Like how you went about laying out tubing and picking a dust collector and or air cleaner set up?
We recently lumbered a 36" maple, a 36" white ash, and a 32" pecan. After drying, we tried planing with a Rigid (Home Depot) 13" planer with 2 HSS knives th-cam.com/users/postUgkxIzvvTi3_Qc8JnVdYYRJCvuoDC4QjTzeL . This job was clearly too much for that machine. The pecan was particularly difficult, due to heavy mineral deposits, and a sharp pair of HSS knives would be consumed by a mere 3 boards. We were also having lots of problems from chip bruising, due to poor dust collection. The shavings came off like straw and jammed in the 4" hose.We bought the DW735 simply to be able to run carbide blades, which worked brilliantly for the pecan. However, we found it to be a much, MUCH nicer machine. It was far more rigid than the "Rigid" planer, and far more accurate as well. But what I liked most about it was the dust feed. This machine has its own blower, which shreds the "straw" like shavings as they come off the cutting head and helps boost the shavings into the dust collection system. No more clogs! It's also nicely sealed so that the internals stay quite clean. This is just a well tempered machine that's a delight to use. It literally cut the labor in half. Just another example of getting what you pay for.
Excellent video. No annoying music and no trying to be funny. Your dialogue was clear and concise. Thank you for a simple explanation to solve a common problem. I'm going to make a planer sled right now.
That's a real nice fancy sled, but I think I would use it differently. Surface planers draw the work into the machine, table saws and jointers require that work be pushed through their cutting blades. The sled that you made needs to be inserted into the planer with the stop first to prevent the work from being drawn off of the sled. Great video thumbs up.
Sucks for a rookie like me who feeds it the same way and then my board comes off the sled and gets shredded because I didn’t have enough hot glue. A lot of these vids leave important safety tips off like how to properly feed through the planer and why.
This is a valuable addition to my woodwork collection th-cam.com/users/postUgkxkNYRBJuiJ6EwD-tQSAlxg0eFKsnR2cgz I still will rate this woodwork plan as the best in my reference library. It always seem to stand out from the rest whenever you go through the library. This is a masterpiece.
I made your jig today. Took about 15 minutes. It worked perfectly and flattened two walnut boards that were twisted. I love the simplicity of it. Thank you for posting this.
I made a cutting board and it was not quite flat. I tried your sled and it worked perfect giving me a perfectly flat cutting board! Thank you. Great video!!
I made some dough boards (not as thick as traditional cutting boards) that didn't lie flat after I took them out of the shop into the house. However, after they adjusted to the humidity in the house, they were fine. Maybe I just got lucky.
This is a great idea. I have seen something like it before, but I have also been looking at ways to reduce plainer snipe and realized if I just flip this jig over the cleat would also work to hold the mdf onto the plainer table as many suggest for snipe. Nice to kill 2 problems with one jig.
Just started making live edge/resin serving boards recently and made 5 of them. Obviously new to woodworking and I WISH I'd seen this before doing those 5. I fought with each board to get them flat until they were 'good enough' (or when I ran out of patience messing with them). At least I know for the next batch... thank you!
@@PenaltyBoxWoodshop it’s all good, just wondering if I missed something you were doing. I have that T square and use it all the time...worth every penny.
Hey there! Just found your channel and am really enjoying and learning from it. Many thanks for sharing. Also, I live near a cabinet and countertop plant where I found a really nice 12" x 16" countertop scrap with a lip on the front and a back splash. Cut off the backsplash and flipped it over to have a ready made table sled with laminate. Thought I'd share so other viewers could benefit.
I used this to realize I could use a sled to treat the edges of bent laminations. The hot glue was enough to hold them up and make them stay put. Thanks! I was ready to make a sled with a series of holes for mini bench dogs and working along with wood wedges but the hot glue worked fine.
I tried 1/2 mdf but it was not flat after I cut my 19x31 sled out of it and laid it on my table saw, had about 1/4 bow right in the middle of it. Love watching your videos keep them coming.
Hello Nice video using a sled. Could you perhaps do a video on your dust collection system? I have the same planer and yet to complete a dust system. Thanks, BJ
Hi. Great video thanks. You think it is possible to effectively level out a cutting board with an electric hand planer? All I have and my glue-up has same issues in the video
I thought it was interesting that your sled had a cleat on the back. My experience is more that the planer sucks the board on the sled into the planer and leaves the sled behind if you don't have a cleat in front. The hot glue was a great tip. I'm assuming you just use gentle pressure from a screwdriver or something to pop it back off? Some people recommended using carpet tape (double sided) but in my experience if your board is rough at all (e.g. reclaimed barnwood) you'll never get it off! lol
Haha well, your not wrong about the direction of the cleat however I have always ran it on the back and never had an issue due to the hot glue holding it in place. As long as it’s secured well to the sled it doesn’t matter. Yea, just a little pressure pops it right off
Yes, the feed rollers (front and rear), if adjusted correctly, will pull the board into the machine and conceivably off the sled. The cutter head pushes against the direction of feed, but it will simply cut, and not kick the board back if feed rollers are adjusted properly. That's why they have the kickback pawls on most planers, to keep the board from kicking back on the operator. The cleat on your sled should be at the front end (the end that goes in first). You can put it at the back, but it essentially does nothing that way.
Better to have it in back to avoid any kickback. Had that happen on my planer once because I tried to get away with running a 10 inch piece even though Dewalt says 12 inch minimum lengthwise. Jammed my thumb pretty bad and scared the shiz out of me. Lesson learned,.
Totally disagree with leveling the trays. I have contacted the official help desk at Dewalt and a very common mistake with so called experts is, leveling the trays. It comes setup from the factory to be slightly raised in order to reduce the snipe. If you screw around with trying to level the trays, you will certainly increase the snipe. Guaranteed!!!! Good luck
I’ll check in to that. I’ve never touched mine because snipe is not an issue. I just know a common problem is those trays being off. Some upward pressure on the board as it exits is always a good thing to reduce snipe (I have done this by hand pressure in the past) so that makes some sense.
@@tomblount5635 Thanks for that bit of info. I've watched a lot if videos on snipe but no one really seems to have the answer even after building elaborate jugs. I'll give it a try.
Just got a Dewalt 735 , first planer and trying to learn as much as I can before I use it. Seeing much about snipe , why aren’t you having that problem with your setup ? Hope you will see this so long after the very helpful post. Thanks
I’m not sure what makes some machines of the same model have this problem but not others. I’ve not had much snipe ever on this machine and that’s from out of the box to now. It’s not that big of a deal though if you just plan ahead and use some of these tricks to defeat it
@@PenaltyBoxWoodshop Thank you for the quick reply, after I posted checked out some of your other tips and since I will plane long boards will set up with long entry and exit support boards 👍
First video of yours I've come across. Even though I pretty know how to make one I watched to give myself a refresher before I go ahead and make one. I've been putting this off for some reason and now I really need it for a board I'm making. Thanks for sharing👍
For cupping do I do the opposite side as a joiner? Do I do cupped side up and than shim the wobble instead of cupped side down and trying to pack under cup ?
Great video Jessie thanks so much! This just made me realise I dont have to spend loads of money on a jointer just yet! Just wondering, how long would you get out of the jig if using hot glue? Would the mdf or melamine warp a bit over time in the workshop? Thanks!
Thank you! I hope it serves you well! The hot glue usually pops right off with a putty knife without damaging the board at all. It should last you a very long time. Also, contrary to the video I would excitement feeding the jig both clear first and clear last. Some have said that feeding it last (opposite of the video) will be better. I’ve done it both ways and it’s worked with my planner.
Hello Penalty Box, Thanks for the nice sled. Towards the end of this video you run a cutting board through and the results is a perfectly flat board. Do you get any snipes? That would ruine a beautiful piece of work. I think that one way to avoid snipes is to add a similar thickness board following (and sometimes also in front of) the board but you don't. How do you prevent snipes from happening? Sincerely, from Montréal, Qc
Flip your planer sled around so the stop is at the front. Use spray adhesive to glue down sheets of sandpaper on the sled surface and use sturdy cardboard or heavy paper stock (non slippery - don't use playing cards) for shims and forget the glue. Using shallow passes on the planar I've never had a workpiece shift or slide or shims move around with my Dewalt planer.
Very well done! I look forward to all of your videos. BTW, we are neighbors............ I live in Mt. Juliet. I would like to ask you about some of the local wood suppliers you use. How would I contact you?
I did a lot of research on bench top planers and settled on the Bauer from Harbor Freight because of good reviews and price. I’ve adjusted in feed and out feed tables as much as possible but still get snipe approximately same distance as it is from beginning of first roller to blade at beginning and same on the tail end of piece as it is exiting planer. There seems to be quite a bit of these problems with most thickness planers so I’ve resolved to using sacrificial boards at beginning and end of my jobs. So you have no snipe issues at all?
I used to have to use the sacrificial boards on my old planer for this reason. No, I don’t have snipe issues with this planer at all as long as I take shallow passes and have sharp blades. If I start to deviate from those then I can start to see some develop but that’s about it.
I've seen a few videos on this type of sled and I thought I heard someone say to get 1" MDF but I can't seem to find the video that specifically mentions that. Or any 1" in my local store(s). Is this 1" or 3/4"? Also, that is a sweet T-square you have there. What brand is it?
Wish he would have stated thickness of the mdf also I bought a sheet of 1/2 mdf at HD that had damaged edges from the tie down metal strap on the bundle but when I cut my 19x31 sled out of it, it was bowed slightly and did not work for the 19x30 tub reading bench/try I was needing planed.
Hey there I built mine out of 3\4 BB ply but when I pull the board away I find that the hot pulls away pieces of the top veneer with it do you find that with the mdf or do you cut your hot glue before removing?
The only advantage I would say is that hot glue is really cheap and goes a very long way. Double sided tape is expensive but would work just fine as well
It’s actually better to place it the opposite of what I did in this video. It will make it less likely that your board gets pushed off the sled. I apply enough glue that it didn’t matter though
Yep, if you read the other comments that’s something that is discussed regularly. I use hot glue so the board is really secured to the board and I have never had any problems and so it was nothing I had ever considered. I tested it later without hot glue and sure enough it will slide unless that clear goes in first.
@@PenaltyBoxWoodshop I used to think that the cleat should be at the end going in last because the cutter would kick it back out. Eventually I heard that the rollers pushing your workpiece forward exert more force than the cutter? So which is really best? Hot glue certainly helps, but I would think the machine is more powerful than the glue?
That’s what my line of thinking was as well and it worked fine. But, I did test it without the glue and the wood was pushed forward by the rollers when the cleat was on the trailing end
Suggested improvement on entire design: recessed insert bolts on the underside with short bolts that can poke up a few mil or so to replace shimming. Put as many holes as you need in whatever location you need. Add a couple t-track to clamp it to the butt rail - no hot glue necessary after that.
I have the larger dust collector from Harbor freight and it works well. If you don’t have I’m the indeed outfeed tables it can increase snipe for sure. I would think the sled would help reduce that as well
Hi, great video! What are your thoughts on running an end grain cutting board through the planer? Wood workers seem to have differing opinions on this.
Well, let me preference this by saying that I have not made an end grain board. I typically only make edge grain boards. However, if it was made correctly and you take light passes I think it would do fine
It can be done, taking off just a little at a time, but you will want to have some sacrificial material at the trailing end of your board. Either add an extra row of pieces that you will saw off later, or some scrap lumber attached firmly on the trailing end. Otherwise, you'll likely suffer a lot of tearout on the last row.
Steve Holman is right. I've made countless end grain cutting boards (who the heck would want a face grain board?) and I run every board through my planer. The sacrificial ends are what makes it work without tear-out. TAKE VERY SHALLOW CUTS!. I have a 15-inch planer, so I usually have enough room to angle the board just a few degrees .
i have the same planer, but i can't dial the thickness down to less than about 1". it looked like you had yours dialed down pretty low when you sent the board through without the sled. am i missing something? or have you altered your planer to be able to do that? thanks.
@@PenaltyBoxWoodshop oh man... so that's what that's for! i just recently got the planer second hand, with no user manual, that's my excuse and i'm sticking with it. thanks so much for the reply.
Great video! Is it strictly necessary to glue the piece down considering the cleat should prevent it from moving? Or is it more about making sure the shims don't move?
At the end you put the project through the planer by itself. You're not worried about snipe? Also, you don't need to worry about snipe with the planer bed? What about a piece of pine from the big box store that is warped like a smile? It's not always wobbly.
Once you plane one surface flat you don’t need the sled so you can run it through without it answer the flat side down. Take light passes and you shouldn’t see any snipe as long as your sled is set up correctly
I see quite a few of these sleds on youtube and in books where they feed the sled cleat-end in first. Is it a personal preference or is there a good reason for this.
There isn’t and I have seen the same. I did my research back when I first got my planer and have tried the sled both ways attempting to figure out the “right” way. I settled on the fact that feeding on the back end was better due to blade movement. But, I’ve done it several times feeding it on the front side and it works great as well. I secure the piece pretty well with the hot glue so maybe that’s why but I haven’t had it move either way.
Cliff Carlo I have found that feeding the sled in with the cleat first has moved my work peace back a little bit due to the pressure of the blades exhausting more energy than the rollers. Generally when that has happened to me I probably had set it a bit low and was nipping off a little bit more than I should have. The results were my work piece moved off of the shims and resulted in planning unevenly. Jesse has excellent sound advice as to taking off a little bit at a time. I believe that would eliminate this “ shifting” I have experienced. When feeding the work piece in with the cleat in the back, all of the force is pushing against the cleat in the back which doesn’t allow it to move anywhere keeping it on top of the shims.
Have you ever had problems with snipes in your wood with that planer? Every once in a while I'll get a snipe and I never really know why it happens. Any ideas?
In theory you could use this for over width boards too? As the sled runs through the guides, you could offset one side, then the other. A more temporary fixing would work better than glue though...
I have made quite a few cutting boards and find that sooner or later you are going to get an unlevel board after glue up even if you use cauls. Now, I just plane all my boards on a sled to avoid having to go back later and doing it
What other types of shop projects/jigs would you like to see a video on?
How about jointing rough sawn wood without a jointer to get square sides for glue ups?
Carl Woods check out my YT video the I did on a 3 In 1 Table saw jig! It works perfectly for that!
How about different uses for routers?
Raul Gomez Great idea!
Thanx for this video. I Just purchased this same Dewalt Planer. Waiting for delivery.
How about a video on how you set up your workshop to collect dust with machines like this. Like how you went about laying out tubing and picking a dust collector and or air cleaner set up?
We recently lumbered a 36" maple, a 36" white ash, and a 32" pecan. After drying, we tried planing with a Rigid (Home Depot) 13" planer with 2 HSS knives th-cam.com/users/postUgkxIzvvTi3_Qc8JnVdYYRJCvuoDC4QjTzeL . This job was clearly too much for that machine. The pecan was particularly difficult, due to heavy mineral deposits, and a sharp pair of HSS knives would be consumed by a mere 3 boards. We were also having lots of problems from chip bruising, due to poor dust collection. The shavings came off like straw and jammed in the 4" hose.We bought the DW735 simply to be able to run carbide blades, which worked brilliantly for the pecan. However, we found it to be a much, MUCH nicer machine. It was far more rigid than the "Rigid" planer, and far more accurate as well. But what I liked most about it was the dust feed. This machine has its own blower, which shreds the "straw" like shavings as they come off the cutting head and helps boost the shavings into the dust collection system. No more clogs! It's also nicely sealed so that the internals stay quite clean. This is just a well tempered machine that's a delight to use. It literally cut the labor in half. Just another example of getting what you pay for.
Excellent video. No annoying music and no trying to be funny. Your dialogue was clear and concise. Thank you for a simple explanation to solve a common problem. I'm going to make a planer sled right now.
Thanks buddy
You nailed it. I wanna learn not be entertained.
That's a real nice fancy sled, but I think I would use it differently. Surface planers draw the work into the machine, table saws and jointers require that work be pushed through their cutting blades. The sled that you made needs to be inserted into the planer with the stop first to prevent the work from being drawn off of the sled. Great video thumbs up.
Totally!
Came here to say this. I see so many of these sleds on TH-cam being used backwards!
Sucks for a rookie like me who feeds it the same way and then my board comes off the sled and gets shredded because I didn’t have enough hot glue. A lot of these vids leave important safety tips off like how to properly feed through the planer and why.
This is a valuable addition to my woodwork collection th-cam.com/users/postUgkxkNYRBJuiJ6EwD-tQSAlxg0eFKsnR2cgz I still will rate this woodwork plan as the best in my reference library. It always seem to stand out from the rest whenever you go through the library. This is a masterpiece.
I made your jig today. Took about 15 minutes. It worked perfectly and flattened two walnut boards that were twisted. I love the simplicity of it. Thank you for posting this.
Heck yeah! That’s always cool to hear!
No questions just a thank you for your video. I have a 735 and I am off to build a sled.
Again, Thanks and stay well.
Cheers from Toronto
Thanks friend!!! Glad it was helpful!
Very helpful and simple instructions. I made one for me yesterday and spent hours planing many mini slabs of Hawaiian Koa. Mahalo! (Thanks)
Oh man! Bet that stuff is beautiful! Thanks for the support brother!
Simple and easy to follow explanation. As it turns out, I also have a cutting board that needs resurfacing, so this fits right in. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for the video! Just what I needed. Subscribed!
I made a cutting board and it was not quite flat. I tried your sled and it worked perfect giving me a perfectly flat cutting board! Thank you. Great video!!
Heck yeah! Love these kinds of comments! Thanks
I made some dough boards (not as thick as traditional cutting boards) that didn't lie flat after I took them out of the shop into the house. However, after they adjusted to the humidity in the house, they were fine. Maybe I just got lucky.
@@John-gj1jr Yea the thinner you go the more you run that risk
Great video Jesse!
Thanks Jason! I appreciate that man!
Nice and simple explanation. A+
👊👊
Thanks a lot for this very clear and practical video demonstration ! 🙏🙏🙏🙏
very useful idea for flattening live edge slabs - thanks!
Absolutely! Thanks for watching!
Very helpful and well presented.
Thanks!!!
That's what I like...simple and effective! Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
perfect, I was looking for this, I have the same planer. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful
Nice and simple with excellent videography!
Thanks! I really appreciate the comment!
This is a great idea. I have seen something like it before, but I have also been looking at ways to reduce plainer snipe and realized if I just flip this jig over the cleat would also work to hold the mdf onto the plainer table as many suggest for snipe. Nice to kill 2 problems with one jig.
Well explained video Jesse! I'm liking it. Good flow too!
+Walkers Woodworks Thanks Brandon! I appreciate it brother.
Great video. Just what I’m looking for.
Thanks for sharing, I know what I’m making in the morning 👍🏻
Clear, simple instruction. Solid video brother.
+ENCurtis Thanks Erik! 👊👊
Padauk shims for the win! ;) Yes!
Heck yeah! 👊👍
Very clear description. As a new owner of a thicknesser I really appreciate you sharing this. Thanks 😊
Thank you! I appreciate you watching and supporting the channel!
Just started making live edge/resin serving boards recently and made 5 of them. Obviously new to woodworking and I WISH I'd seen this before doing those 5. I fought with each board to get them flat until they were 'good enough' (or when I ran out of patience messing with them). At least I know for the next batch... thank you!
I like your shims Great Easy beginners project 🙏🏻
Thanks!
Great, quick tip! Thanks ;)
Well done.
Thank you
fabulous. going to use this
+Debbie Hill Awesome! Thanks Debbie!
Great video and helpful jig.
+TN Timber and Forge Works Thanks Jimmy!
Thanks. I love simplicity. Will make this one.
Yes sir! Thank you!
Amazing thanks! Going to build this 🪵
1:04. Wait, you have the woodpecker T square with the laser cut marking holes and you still marked out the layout lines with a tape measure?
😂 Good catch. Sometimes I don’t even makes sense to myself 🤷♂️
@@PenaltyBoxWoodshop it’s all good, just wondering if I missed something you were doing. I have that T square and use it all the time...worth every penny.
Nice video and great explanation Jesse 👍🏻👊🏻
+Woodshop Mike Thanks Mike!
Hey there! Just found your channel and am really enjoying and learning from it. Many thanks for sharing. Also, I live near a cabinet and countertop plant where I found a really nice 12" x 16" countertop scrap with a lip on the front and a back splash. Cut off the backsplash and flipped it over to have a ready made table sled with laminate. Thought I'd share so other viewers could benefit.
Nice!!!!
Easy tip thank you!
You’re welcome!
I used this to realize I could use a sled to treat the edges of bent laminations. The hot glue was enough to hold them up and make them stay put. Thanks!
I was ready to make a sled with a series of holes for mini bench dogs and working along with wood wedges but the hot glue worked fine.
That’s awesome! Thank you 👊🏼
Excellent
I have seen several of these sleds made but your explanation is easy to follow and will be making on for my shop.
+Jk Canvas awesome! Thank you for the feedback and support!
I tried 1/2 mdf but it was not flat after I cut my 19x31 sled out of it and laid it on my table saw, had about 1/4 bow right in the middle of it. Love watching your videos keep them coming.
Hello Nice video using a sled. Could you perhaps do a video on your dust collection system? I have the same planer and yet to complete a dust system. Thanks, BJ
Hi. Great video thanks. You think it is possible to effectively level out a cutting board with an electric hand planer? All I have and my glue-up has same issues in the video
With some work I think you could get it pretty close
Wonder was the disk=like was about. Great video!!
Hahah there’s always one or two. Thanks friend!
Three things. 1. Love the rock music in your intro. 2. I have the same glue spreader. 3. I can’t believe I don’t have a surface planer.
Hahah @keywoodworks did the intro and picked the music and I love both my glue spreader and the planer hahahah
I thought it was interesting that your sled had a cleat on the back. My experience is more that the planer sucks the board on the sled into the planer and leaves the sled behind if you don't have a cleat in front. The hot glue was a great tip. I'm assuming you just use gentle pressure from a screwdriver or something to pop it back off? Some people recommended using carpet tape (double sided) but in my experience if your board is rough at all (e.g. reclaimed barnwood) you'll never get it off! lol
Haha well, your not wrong about the direction of the cleat however I have always ran it on the back and never had an issue due to the hot glue holding it in place. As long as it’s secured well to the sled it doesn’t matter. Yea, just a little pressure pops it right off
Yes, the feed rollers (front and rear), if adjusted correctly, will pull the board into the machine and conceivably off the sled. The cutter head pushes against the direction of feed, but it will simply cut, and not kick the board back if feed rollers are adjusted properly. That's why they have the kickback pawls on most planers, to keep the board from kicking back on the operator. The cleat on your sled should be at the front end (the end that goes in first). You can put it at the back, but it essentially does nothing that way.
Better to have it in back to avoid any kickback. Had that happen on my planer once because I tried to get away with running a 10 inch piece even though Dewalt says 12 inch minimum lengthwise. Jammed my thumb pretty bad and scared the shiz out of me. Lesson learned,.
Your intake and discharge for your planner perfectly level to help prevent snipe? Very nice tip.
Yea if those two beds are level then you should be good.
Totally disagree with leveling the trays. I have contacted the official help desk at Dewalt and a very common mistake with so called experts is, leveling the trays. It comes setup from the factory to be slightly raised in order to reduce the snipe. If you screw around with trying to level the trays, you will certainly increase the snipe. Guaranteed!!!!
Good luck
I’ll check in to that. I’ve never touched mine because snipe is not an issue. I just know a common problem is those trays being off. Some upward pressure on the board as it exits is always a good thing to reduce snipe (I have done this by hand pressure in the past) so that makes some sense.
I’ve also never claimed to be a “so called expert” haha.
@@tomblount5635 Thanks for that bit of info. I've watched a lot if videos on snipe but no one really seems to have the answer even after building elaborate jugs. I'll give it a try.
Excellent content my friend and great teaching skills. Looking forward to seeing more of your tutorials. Instant subscription.
Thanks Paul! I appreciate the support and kind comment t
Just got a Dewalt 735 , first planer and trying to learn as much as I can before I use it. Seeing much about snipe , why aren’t you having that problem with your setup ? Hope you will see this so long after the very helpful post. Thanks
I’m not sure what makes some machines of the same model have this problem but not others. I’ve not had much snipe ever on this machine and that’s from out of the box to now. It’s not that big of a deal though if you just plan ahead and use some of these tricks to defeat it
@@PenaltyBoxWoodshop Thank you for the quick reply, after I posted checked out some of your other tips and since I will plane long boards will set up with long entry and exit support boards 👍
First video of yours I've come across. Even though I pretty know how to make one I watched to give myself a refresher before I go ahead and make one. I've been putting this off for some reason and now I really need it for a board I'm making. Thanks for sharing👍
Thanks man! Sometimes it’s good just to see someone else’s take on projects
Does it make a difference whether you feed it from the end with the screwed end?
Great vid! How thick of MDF did you use?
Thanks! 1/2” or 3/4” will work just fine
simple and just on time, unpacking my dewalt planer! but are you running end grain through the planer or thats after the first glue up?
For cupping do I do the opposite side as a joiner? Do I do cupped side up and than shim the wobble instead of cupped side down and trying to pack under cup ?
Simple! Definitely on the list to make for my shop. Thanks!
Heck yea, it will save you a ton of time as well!
What drillbit are you using on your drill press?
Great video Jessie thanks so much! This just made me realise I dont have to spend loads of money on a jointer just yet! Just wondering, how long would you get out of the jig if using hot glue? Would the mdf or melamine warp a bit over time in the workshop? Thanks!
Thank you! I hope it serves you well! The hot glue usually pops right off with a putty knife without damaging the board at all. It should last you a very long time. Also, contrary to the video I would excitement feeding the jig both clear first and clear last. Some have said that feeding it last (opposite of the video) will be better. I’ve done it both ways and it’s worked with my planner.
A great trick is to put blue tape down where you’re going to hot glue. It’ll stay on fine and still come off easily when you’re done with that board.
Hello Penalty Box,
Thanks for the nice sled. Towards the end of this video you run a cutting board through and the results is a perfectly flat board. Do you get any snipes? That would ruine a beautiful piece of work. I think that one way to avoid snipes is to add a similar thickness board following (and sometimes also in front of) the board but you don't. How do you prevent snipes from happening?
Sincerely, from Montréal, Qc
Link for the glue gun? Thanks for awesome video!
If it’s not already in the description section of the video I’ll add it tonight. Thank you!
Can I use a 3/4 plywood to make the sled I have some of that but not mdf will that wood just the same?
Yep that will work just fine.
Ok thank you for your response keep make the great videos I watch them all the time
what if im making a noodle board that is 30"x22"? would I plane it in two section? not sure how this would work?
How do you deal with snipe?
Great video and idea. How long does the glue need to dry before using the sled in the planer?
It’s pretty close to instant. Just a few seconds
@@PenaltyBoxWoodshop thanks so much for your prompt reply!
Flip your planer sled around so the stop is at the front. Use spray adhesive to glue down sheets of sandpaper on the sled surface and use sturdy cardboard or heavy paper stock (non slippery - don't use playing cards) for shims and forget the glue. Using shallow passes on the planar I've never had a workpiece shift or slide or shims move around with my Dewalt planer.
What about problems with snipe?
Would you do anything different for very long boards? 6-8ft
Nope, just make sure your sled is longer than the board and your supporting it as it feeds in and out of the planer
how thick a MDF board. Great video
I'm using 3/8 thick wood how can I make a Sled for that because I'm making Coasters. Thank you so much.
Very well done! I look forward to all of your videos. BTW, we are neighbors............ I live in Mt. Juliet. I would like to ask you about some of the local wood suppliers you use. How would I contact you?
Hey Mike! Thanks I appreciate that! Shoot me an email penaltyboxwoodshop@gmail.com
Does this work for much longer pieces? I have a 60" long 2x8 that's got a pretty hefty bow in it
Read a bunch of comments but didn't come across snipe question. Do you have any snipe issues at all with a final work piece like that?
No sir not with this planer and good sharp blades. I make sure to take small bites with each pass as well.
I did a lot of research on bench top planers and settled on the Bauer from Harbor Freight because of good reviews and price. I’ve adjusted in feed and out feed tables as much as possible but still get snipe approximately same distance as it is from beginning of first roller to blade at beginning and same on the tail end of piece as it is exiting planer. There seems to be quite a bit of these problems with most thickness planers so I’ve resolved to using sacrificial boards at beginning and end of my jobs. So you have no snipe issues at all?
I used to have to use the sacrificial boards on my old planer for this reason. No, I don’t have snipe issues with this planer at all as long as I take shallow passes and have sharp blades. If I start to deviate from those then I can start to see some develop but that’s about it.
cool video! did you have a woodworking accident? there looks like a big scar on your arm?
I've seen a few videos on this type of sled and I thought I heard someone say to get 1" MDF but I can't seem to find the video that specifically mentions that. Or any 1" in my local store(s). Is this 1" or 3/4"? Also, that is a sweet T-square you have there. What brand is it?
Wish he would have stated thickness of the mdf also I bought a sheet of 1/2 mdf at HD that had damaged edges from the tie down metal strap on the bundle but when I cut my 19x31 sled out of it, it was bowed slightly and did not work for the 19x30 tub reading bench/try I was needing planed.
Hey there I built mine out of 3\4 BB ply but when I pull the board away I find that the hot pulls away pieces of the top veneer with it do you find that with the mdf or do you cut your hot glue before removing?
Yea, if you take a knife or something sharp to it first then it will come right off. I always try to cut it some
Yea, I was going to ask similar-how to remove the hot glue? And likewise, is there advantage of hot glue over xfasten double-sided wood tape?
The only advantage I would say is that hot glue is really cheap and goes a very long way. Double sided tape is expensive but would work just fine as well
Thanks for the info! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
+Fred McIntyre yes sir! Thanks for the support!
Does it matter which side of the board you place against the sled?
It’s actually better to place it the opposite of what I did in this video. It will make it less likely that your board gets pushed off the sled. I apply enough glue that it didn’t matter though
How did you not get any snipe?
I may be wrong here, but when you got it all set up and ready to go, wouldn’t you want to run it into the planer the other way with the cleat first?
Yep, if you read the other comments that’s something that is discussed regularly. I use hot glue so the board is really secured to the board and I have never had any problems and so it was nothing I had ever considered. I tested it later without hot glue and sure enough it will slide unless that clear goes in first.
@@PenaltyBoxWoodshop I used to think that the cleat should be at the end going in last because the cutter would kick it back out. Eventually I heard that the rollers pushing your workpiece forward exert more force than the cutter? So which is really best? Hot glue certainly helps, but I would think the machine is more powerful than the glue?
That’s what my line of thinking was as well and it worked fine. But, I did test it without the glue and the wood was pushed forward by the rollers when the cleat was on the trailing end
Real question. What benefit does the sled add as opposed to just using the built in bed?
do you just sand out the slight snipe I can see after planing?
Yep, if it’s slight then sanding or card scraping will take care of that easily
Suggested improvement on entire design: recessed insert bolts on the underside with short bolts that can poke up a few mil or so to replace shimming. Put as many holes as you need in whatever location you need. Add a couple t-track to clamp it to the butt rail - no hot glue necessary after that.
How do you prevent snipe from both sides of your cutting board?
What type collector do you run your chips into? I need to get indeed and out feed trays for mine but the sled takes out the snipe?
I have the larger dust collector from Harbor freight and it works well. If you don’t have I’m the indeed outfeed tables it can increase snipe for sure. I would think the sled would help reduce that as well
@@PenaltyBoxWoodshop thanks for added info.
Absolutely 👊👊
Hi, great video! What are your thoughts on running an end grain cutting board through the planer? Wood workers seem to have differing opinions on this.
Well, let me preference this by saying that I have not made an end grain board. I typically only make edge grain boards. However, if it was made correctly and you take light passes I think it would do fine
It can be done, taking off just a little at a time, but you will want to have some sacrificial material at the trailing end of your board. Either add an extra row of pieces that you will saw off later, or some scrap lumber attached firmly on the trailing end. Otherwise, you'll likely suffer a lot of tearout on the last row.
Makes perfect sense! Thank you for the information!
Steve Holman is right. I've made countless end grain cutting boards (who the heck would want a face grain board?) and I run every board through my planer. The sacrificial ends are what makes it work without tear-out. TAKE VERY SHALLOW CUTS!. I have a 15-inch planer, so I usually have enough room to angle the board just a few degrees .
i have the same planer, but i can't dial the thickness down to less than about 1". it looked like you had yours dialed down pretty low when you sent the board through without the sled. am i missing something? or have you altered your planer to be able to do that? thanks.
There is a dial on the side that acts as a stop for the thickness. Make sure that’s not set at 1” and on the lowest setting. Probably is the issue
@@PenaltyBoxWoodshop oh man... so that's what that's for! i just recently got the planer second hand, with no user manual, that's my excuse and i'm sticking with it. thanks so much for the reply.
Hahaha I understand. 👊👊👍
How2 do you remove the hot glue?
Great video! Is it strictly necessary to glue the piece down considering the cleat should prevent it from moving? Or is it more about making sure the shims don't move?
The cleats are to prevent the material from rocking back and forth during the planning process.
The shims prevent the material from rocking up and down, not the lone cleat...The cleat prevents the material from being thrown of the sled.
Excellent video. Do you ever have a problem with snipe? I always have to account for three inches of waste on either end to cut off.
As long as I have good blades and take light passes then snipe isn’t really an issue for me using this planer
If I want to build an 8’ sled, how thick would you recommend the sled being to avoid flexing issues?
That’s a good question. Might take some testing on your end to see what works. I’ve not made an 8’ before
What is the longest length you have done? I'm looking to do 16 ft each board. Just curious on your thoughts
😬 that’s pretty long. I’ve only done 8ft or less but I’m not saying longer would work
Thank you for you feedback. I'm just setting up and this video specifically has helped a bunch!
At the end you put the project through the planer by itself. You're not worried about snipe? Also, you don't need to worry about snipe with the planer bed? What about a piece of pine from the big box store that is warped like a smile? It's not always wobbly.
Once you plane one surface flat you don’t need the sled so you can run it through without it answer the flat side down. Take light passes and you shouldn’t see any snipe as long as your sled is set up correctly
@@PenaltyBoxWoodshop Thank you. 😁
I see quite a few of these sleds on youtube and in books where they feed the sled cleat-end in first. Is it a personal preference or is there a good reason for this.
There isn’t and I have seen the same. I did my research back when I first got my planer and have tried the sled both ways attempting to figure out the “right” way. I settled on the fact that feeding on the back end was better due to blade movement. But, I’ve done it several times feeding it on the front side and it works great as well. I secure the piece pretty well with the hot glue so maybe that’s why but I haven’t had it move either way.
Cliff Carlo I have found that feeding the sled in with the cleat first has moved my work peace back a little bit due to the pressure of the blades exhausting more energy than the rollers. Generally when that has happened to me I probably had set it a bit low and was nipping off a little bit more than I should have. The results were my work piece moved off of the shims and resulted in planning unevenly. Jesse has excellent sound advice as to taking off a little bit at a time. I believe that would eliminate this “ shifting” I have experienced. When feeding the work piece in with the cleat in the back, all of the force is pushing against the cleat in the back which doesn’t allow it to move anywhere keeping it on top of the shims.
Also I’ve seen people adhere sandpaper to the sled to add additional friction to the pieces so they don’t shift during the planing.
Thank you, Michael and that’s an excellent answer and explanation
Scribble with a pencil on top of the board to see when it's flat. Remove all the scribbles and your done!
Hello, how do you recommend the Dewalt DW735 planer? Thank you
I’ve had no problems from it last few years. I think it’s a good one and recommend it for sure
Penalty Box Woodshop thanks for the information
Have you ever had problems with snipes in your wood with that planer? Every once in a while I'll get a snipe and I never really know why it happens. Any ideas?
I don’t but I did a TH-cam video about it with this planner. Check it out and it might help you!
In theory you could use this for over width boards too? As the sled runs through the guides, you could offset one side, then the other. A more temporary fixing would work better than glue though...
I make my sled the max width capacity of the planer so no room to hang over the side.
Wait, so after putting hot glue on the sled, how do you get it off repeatedly over time and not mess up the surface of the sled?
I have made quite a few cutting boards and find that sooner or later you are going to get an unlevel board after glue up even if you use cauls. Now, I just plane all my boards on a sled to avoid having to go back later and doing it
I have the same planer but my sled is melamine. I have to feed the cleat end first so the board pulls the sled through.
Yea, I really like melamine for this and the clear direction you use is perfect. Especially needed when using a slick surface sled