Great informative video. I purchased a Fender Players Strat in 2018. I don’t gig or anything that much anymore really, so it doesn’t get played a lot. But I have noticed recently that that my low E string is often very detuned when I go to play it. My guess is as you said that the saddle is starting to weaken. I will likely replace with an original. My question to you is, will the original be a direct replacement as in same dimensions, and do I have to get a new locking nut too because it looks like they are sold separately. Thanks!
I am not a guitar tech, but I have the same guitar. It had a Special. I replaced it with an original but I kept the studs and the locking nut. My guitar tech repair guy said it was fine. The poles are hardened steel. I think the nut is the same. Don't have tuning issues. I think the neck is lame. I hate toothpick frets. Wish they made a nicer neck.
I always add a tiny amount of oil or even Vaseline to the posts of my trems where they meet the posts. It actually makes them last years longer. Just make sure to use a syringe to put them smallest amount of oil possible. You don't want oil getting down into the wood of your guitar making it weaker. You can also use graphite dust, but that if not careful makes a mess. So I switched to 3 in 1 oil through a needle to apply it.
Phone glitch, my sincerest apologies! Your background ingto mechanics is obvious to our fellow 'technicians' that understand how lubrication points in any application
Excellent overview. Even FR wouldn't respond to these questions when I asked them. There are some critical parts where being hardened is imperative and other parts it's not so important. Besides some of the hybrid FR trems I have built, I am in the process of restoring an OG system from mid 80's. It needs saddles and blocks to be 100% again and I am going to purchase a set from the 1000 Series. You did not mention (or maybe you did), that you can purchase pretty much the entire 1000 Series as parts from the FR website. I don't think there is any economy in doing it that way, but you can pick certain parts from each series as they all will dimensionally work with each other.
One of my LTD's came with a Floyd Special, in 1 year two saddles stripped out. I had a Hamer from the 90's that I used for parts and it had steel saddles, swapped the saddles and 3 years later going strong.
I put steel saddles and a brass block and a push in arm bushing on my Floyd special around 5 years ago still works perfect and stays in tune and with all them parts still come in way cheaper than an original!
@@Logan-zo3lj no I kept the original studs the only other thing I swapped was the little clamp blocks inside the saddles with round one instead of square ones I found it centers the string way better !
do a 1000 vs original vs gotoh ge1996t. I have been using 1000s, one original, and lately a gotoh. I am convinced that the Gotoh is the best bang for buck trem right now. Relatively cheap and yet stable af. I replaced my special on a schecter sun valley, the string slips way too often and the knife edges are damaged, after putting the gotoh in there, no problem anymore.
what did u do about the studs ? did u swap them out too? the thing is a push in arm costs $50 the cheapest for where I live and I've checked in many places, however I can get a gotoh for $130 from aliexpress so I think I might go that route and replace the FR 1000.
@@Logan-zo3lj i didnt replace the studs on mine, the gotoh studs are wider and im afraid drilling the hole wider will not leave too much wood. If your existing studs are steel it would be fine. The gotoh saddle screws are a tad longer too. You can put your stock saddle screws on it tho. Its pretty much a drop in replacement from a special, just a few minor tweaks, ie: studs and saddle screws
The zinc alloy used in the FR Special is called ZAMAK. It's actually pretty tough, and is stronger in several properties compared to several steel alloys.... other than it's melting point. Zinc is also a lot cheaper because of recycling. It's overall cheaper and a lot easier to work with, which is why so many car parts are made from zamak. I own a few FRs but not a 1000, I change strings at least twice a month on all my electrics, and despite the playing time, over the past 5 years +, I see no difference in playing between the Original and the Special. Granted, I am an adult, and use proper tools and intonation gear whenever I need to adjust anything on my guitars.
I see no difference in wanting to have steel saddles to push against the string by means of the hardened screw mashing into it. Car engines are mostly aluminum blocks with some steel parts assembled . Valve covers are tightened to 10 to 15 ft lbs or torque (handtight snug) how much force can one apply to the hardened screw and zinc alloy saddle pushing against steel string. Unless your divebombing like Dime or EVH and Slayer the string wont or shouldnt pop out under normal play. The Wound string saddles will maybe look hourglass shaped over years of constant abuse and need replacing but sand it down flat again if need be the screw are long enough to not run out !
I bought a new guitar back in 2018 that came with a FR Special. I played that guitar for 3 years without any issues. However, after 3 years I started having an issue with strings popping out of the lock blocks. No matter how tight I had the saddle screws, strings would still pop out. At one point I had gone through 3 sets of strings in one month because of this. I did some research and discovered that this seems to be a common problem with the FR Special. It is because of the Zinc lock blocks. Over time the strings will start to wear grooves into the lock blocks and that's when the strings start popping out. I had two choices. I could have just ordered another set of saddles and I would probably have no issues for another 3 years, but then the problem would most likely return. The other option was to replace the bridge with an OFR an fix the problem once and for all. I chose the second option and replaced the bridge with an OFR. The guitar has worked great ever since. Also the OFR seems to be much tighter and better made than the Special, and the brass sustain block also made a huge difference. I am happy that I made the switch.
I feel i need to point out that your arguments about the Zinc Alloy parts being lesser because they are an alloy fall apart when you remember that Steel is an alloy of Iron and Carbon abd that Brass is an alloy of Copper and Zinc. Brass is probably a more durable Zinc alloy than the nameless "Zinc alloy" listed by Floyd Rose, but it is still a Zinc alloy. Alloys are also usually harder and more durable than straight elements because their atoms are more closely packed together during the process used to create them.
Great video, but i actually disagree with the 'special' viewpoint. Offering it to new floyd users also offers them all the issues that they provide, driving them away from the idea of a floating trem as a whole. (souring their opinion of the conpany, due to an inferior cheaper product.) My first floyd was a special, and from then on I hated floyds with a passion UNTIL i finally got a 1000 and was plesently surprised.
How about a used Floyd Rose buyer's guide? Maybe including what to check when buying a used guitar with an FR, what wear and tear to look for etc. I think that might be pretty useful for people buying used shredders.
The FR Special and 1000 are a response to the patents expiring, not cheap licenced bridges. Manufacturers haven't needed to pay for a licence for quite some time, and it's not as if the Chinese back street builders that flooded the market gave a flying fuck anyway. Ibanez fell foul of a lawsuit over the Edge Pro because the patent on the low profile design hadn't expired, unlike the regular where the fine tuners push down against the locking studs. The reason why a Schaller Lockmeister is generally considerably cheaper than the FR Original (despite being the same quality and from the same manufacturer) is because FR industries aren't taking their cut because it has no FR branding and isn't sold as a Floyd, therefore Schaller can offer theirs at a more competitive price.
Nuclear choice floyd roses are extremely overated, I myself love the Zero resistance 2 tremolo from ibanez. At the end of the day whatever works for you
The comments about different alloys is very misleading. The Gotoh GE1996t and the Japanese Ibanez Edge bridges use a different, non ferrous (or at least non magnetic) alloy for the part of the saddle that contacts the baseplate. The string housing is steel. The difference is that whatever alloy Gotoh is using (assuming they still manufacture the Edge for Ibanez) is clearly of a denser and harder material than Sung-ill is using for the FR special. The FR Special saddles are notorious for premature wear and stripped threads. Personally I suspect some of the problems are due to the user error, thinking the string lock studs have to be tightened more than necessary. Many a home mechanic has learned the benefits of having a torque wrench and what the torque settings should be for critical bolts after they've stripped a thread!
They are slightly different but nothing that makes any big difference Floyd Rose original is the best in my opinion but Floyd Rose special isn't bad. Wilkinson locking tremolo are amazing also
Thanks heaps for clearing up the confusion. The name “super special” feels misleading. Like you’re getting something that’s “super special” when in fact the opposite is true.
Keisel only uses original Floyds...so I have four of those guitars. These Floyds did not jack up the price of the guitars $1000 even over fixed or Wilkinson bridges. They ranged from $1300 to $2200 new, and the higher cost ones had quilted tops, custom finishes, etc. If a guitar is marked up $1000 for an original Floyd, that's a no-go for me! Also have several peavey locking trems on guitars. Ive only had to replace the little string lock blocks on these, and the long screws that engage those blocks...inexpensive maintenance items.
Floyd Rose may have invented it, but Ibanez perfected it with the Edge / low pro edge. have owned 2 FR orig., and 5 soon to be 6 Edges. Edge wins hands down every time. Just wish they sold them to customers.
When you say, "Hardened-steel saddle-screws and zinc alloy saddles (regarding the special)," I assume you mean the saddle-mounting/intonation-adjusting retainer screws in front of the saddle... the ones that, essentially, are set and forget, correct? I mean, once the guitar is intonated, I find myself virtually never removing them. Sure... they are made of a different metal and I guess that is the point but unless a person is constantly finding him or herself neccessarily altering their intonation, I don't and have never found that to be an issue. Same goes for knife-edges. Ive heard of guys complaining that they wear out. However, Ive been playing on a "Special" in my very 1st electric from 1995-ish and have never found it to be problematic. The one noticable difference Ive found when using an "Original" is the action of the fine tuners and their relative moving parts being far smoother than less expensive versions. Beyond that, which makes no difference while actually playing the instrument or to what degree they actually retain tuning, I would never discount one over another for performing at its actual purpose. In other words... Hey, new guys, the "Special" you have in your guitar is not the problem and they ALL go out of tune with use. You SHOULD be WANTING to contantly retune your instrument... because, unless you have true temperament frets, it is impossible to be completely and perfectly intonated all the way from open strings to the meedly-meedlies. Its just the nature of the instrument.
When I was a teenager Floyd Rose Special is the reason why I these days wouldn’t touch a sub 1000$ guitar with a floyd. Best Floyd type is the Original Edge on Genesis series Ibanez rg for sub 1000$ guitars
I have an HM strat made in 2020. Great guitar, but at $1200, it should have come stock with something better than the Floyd special. The collar insert is already broken on it and I replaced it with a special hotrod that I cannibalized from a schecter with a misaligned neck. It's not a permanent replacement though. I'm planning to get a Gotoh ge1996t to put in it. I don't know why Fender didn't just use those to begin with, considering the guitar is already made in Japan. Seems like a pretty dunderheaded choice on the part of Fender. What say you?
Because the Special and 1000 were designed to be dirt cheap OEM for mass production. It also allows brands to market that their guitars come with official and even original Floyd Rose (because the 1000 series says "Original" on the plate) bridges.
@@pauln6803 it just seems to me that at $1200 for a new guitar in 2020, at least dropping a Floyd 1000 or a Gotoh ge1996t wouldn't have that significant of an effect on cost, especially considering that Gotoh bridges are excellent quality and made a train ride away from where Fender Japan makes their guitars. I think that would reduce the cost of obtaining them. Also considering that Fender routinely equip Floyd Rose 1000 bridges on guitars pricing significantly lower than the HM strat. Take the Charvel pro mod stuff and DK stuff, for example. 4/5 the price while having Carbon reinforced necks, ebony fingerboards, Seymour Duncan pickups, and Floyd Rose 1000 bridges. FMIC is clearly able to offer serious bang for your buck and It seems they cut a corner by using the Special that they didn't need to cut. Using a better bridge wouldn't have affected their profit margin so drastically. They still could have made money by using A Floyd 1000 or a Gotoh ge1996t, which I can buy all day long for less than $200. So, I can buy a brand new Gotoh 1996t for less than $200, imagine how much money could a company as massive as Fender could have saved buying them in bulk to equip as OEM on a bunch of otherwise outstanding guitars. By the way, I really like my HM strat. That's the only miscue on Fender's part with them. So, when I can afford to buy one, I'm getting a Gotoh 1996t to put in it. The bridge I pulled from that schecter is working fine, but it's still a Floyd special. It's only a matter of time before parts start failing.
I've owned all three. The original is the only one I still own and use. If anyone wants a 1000 series, I'll dig it up and send it to you for the price of shipping.
I have a floyd rose question. Why does my string keep slipping out of the lock? Not breaking but if i do a full step bend or something it goes super flat or just slips all the way out it is so annoying please help. By the way i have a Floyd Rose Special if that makes any difference to the answer.
@@nikaxeguitar yes usually the high E sometimes the B. And specifically my A string keeps slipping out of it’s winding (the wire wrap slips off of the core wire). Every time i change strings there is always these specific problems with one or two strings
Potentially, but generally the knife edges on a special are also bad. Look at Floyd’s website. Even the knife edges of the special they have on the page are cut horribly
My 11 year old is wanting a dimebag Dean or washburn guitar... How do I tell the difference between an original, 1000 and special? For all I know someone could swap parts and give me a special but it's listed as an original. Thanks for the help.
Floyd rose special is made of less quality metal and alloys and wears out quicker and works fine until stuff wears. Floyd 1000 is a korean made floyd rose that is made with good steel. The Floyd Rode Original is pretty much the same as 1000 but made in Germany and way overpriced.You will be fine with a special and just replace parts as needed, you can even by an ofr base plate by itself if needed. The Jackson JT580LP by Tekeuchi is best or at least equal too ofr.
I have an old Jackson dinky (98'?) with the tekeuchi and it is still in amazing shape. My tech guy and I were discussing replacing it last year, but when we opened it up and looked, there was virtually no significant wear. I'm not a bat-$hit crazy bar guy, but I have been using it for a long time.
What about the FR with a laser engraved logo and a W in a circle on the bottom of the base plate? What are these? Seeing them come on low cost budget guitars.
IMO: Schaller Lockmeister outperforms original floyd rose. By a lot. It is smooth, stable, tuned, heavy weight, a lot of sustain, responsive...I am very happy with it. Maybe I should make a demo.
Cheaper too... got 2 last year for $197 ea WITH an R2 nut and 42mm nickel plated brass block. Even if you have to swap the nut and block, it's still cheaper than a branded Floyd Rose.
It shouldn't because they are made to the same standards by the same manufacturer. Schaller had some serious QC problems a while back, which resulted in Suhr no longer offering the FR Original on their guitars, instead opting for the Gotoh GE1996t. Even recently Thomann experimented with tricking out one of their Harley Benton guitars, and they opted for ABM, saying Schaller isn't the best. And they sell Schaller hardware! The point is that the chances of having manufacturing defects are as high on the Lockmeister as the FR Original.
@pauln6803 I am sharing my experience: I have an OFR, an Special FR, a Jackson FR licensed and a Edge...and the Lockmeister has the best performance, and I bought it in Thomann's. At least, this is my experience at this precise moment....and I hate floating tremolos.
if you argue that the zinc block is less good due to it being an alloy you will never guess what brass is ;) zinc blocks have been used by Fender on their american standard bridge and they are quite ok, zinc is much much softer than hardened steel and for the saddles is it the wrong choice (they will strip out quite easily) , otherwise excellent presentation
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Great informative video. I purchased a Fender Players Strat in 2018. I don’t gig or anything that much anymore really, so it doesn’t get played a lot. But I have noticed recently that that my low E string is often very detuned when I go to play it. My guess is as you said that the saddle is starting to weaken. I will likely replace with an original. My question to you is, will the original be a direct replacement as in same dimensions, and do I have to get a new locking nut too because it looks like they are sold separately.
Thanks!
I am not a guitar tech, but I have the same guitar. It had a Special. I replaced it with an original but I kept the studs and the locking nut. My guitar tech repair guy said it was fine. The poles are hardened steel. I think the nut is the same. Don't have tuning issues. I think the neck is lame. I hate toothpick frets. Wish they made a nicer neck.
I always add a tiny amount of oil or even Vaseline to the posts of my trems where they meet the posts. It actually makes them last years longer. Just make sure to use a syringe to put them smallest amount of oil possible. You don't want oil getting down into the wood of your guitar making it weaker. You can also use graphite dust, but that if not careful makes a mess. So I switched to 3 in 1 oil through a needle to apply it.
Phone glitch, my sincerest apologies!
Your background ingto mechanics is obvious to our fellow 'technicians' that understand how lubrication points in any application
Excellent overview. Even FR wouldn't respond to these questions when I asked them. There are some critical parts where being hardened is imperative and other parts it's not so important. Besides some of the hybrid FR trems I have built, I am in the process of restoring an OG system from mid 80's. It needs saddles and blocks to be 100% again and I am going to purchase a set from the 1000 Series. You did not mention (or maybe you did), that you can purchase pretty much the entire 1000 Series as parts from the FR website. I don't think there is any economy in doing it that way, but you can pick certain parts from each series as they all will dimensionally work with each other.
Oh I wasn’t aware of buying them separately. Thanks for that!
One of my LTD's came with a Floyd Special, in 1 year two saddles stripped out. I had a Hamer from the 90's that I used for parts and it had steel saddles, swapped the saddles and 3 years later going strong.
That’s freaking awesome!! Nice way to improvise
I put steel saddles and a brass block and a push in arm bushing on my Floyd special around 5 years ago still works perfect and stays in tune and with all them parts still come in way cheaper than an original!
Great point!!!
did u swap the studs ?
@@Logan-zo3lj no I kept the original studs the only other thing I swapped was the little clamp blocks inside the saddles with round one instead of square ones I found it centers the string way better !
The locking nut is made by cheap material. I change by one from gotoh the ghl
@@rodolfomisao123 I like the lock n roll nut a lil pricey but it’s so smooth I cut my finger multiple times on standard nuts
do a 1000 vs original vs gotoh ge1996t. I have been using 1000s, one original, and lately a gotoh. I am convinced that the Gotoh is the best bang for buck trem right now. Relatively cheap and yet stable af. I replaced my special on a schecter sun valley, the string slips way too often and the knife edges are damaged, after putting the gotoh in there, no problem anymore.
what did u do about the studs ? did u swap them out too?
the thing is a push in arm costs $50 the cheapest for where I live and I've checked in many places, however I can get a gotoh for $130 from aliexpress so I think I might go that route and replace the FR 1000.
@@Logan-zo3lj i didnt replace the studs on mine, the gotoh studs are wider and im afraid drilling the hole wider will not leave too much wood. If your existing studs are steel it would be fine. The gotoh saddle screws are a tad longer too. You can put your stock saddle screws on it tho.
Its pretty much a drop in replacement from a special, just a few minor tweaks, ie: studs and saddle screws
@@mattdylan664 you can leave the posts if its made of steel. I didnt install the gotoh studs on mine.
@@Frankentoane You can also buy high quality shorter saddle screws.
The zinc alloy used in the FR Special is called ZAMAK. It's actually pretty tough, and is stronger in several properties compared to several steel alloys.... other than it's melting point. Zinc is also a lot cheaper because of recycling. It's overall cheaper and a lot easier to work with, which is why so many car parts are made from zamak.
I own a few FRs but not a 1000, I change strings at least twice a month on all my electrics, and despite the playing time, over the past 5 years +, I see no difference in playing between the Original and the Special.
Granted, I am an adult, and use proper tools and intonation gear whenever I need to adjust anything on my guitars.
Good to know thank you!
You change your strings atleast twice a month on all your electrics? Do you genuinely just love to change strings?
I see no difference in wanting to have steel saddles to push against the string by means of the hardened screw mashing into it. Car engines are mostly aluminum blocks with some steel parts assembled . Valve covers are tightened to 10 to 15 ft lbs or torque (handtight snug) how much force can one apply to the hardened screw and zinc alloy saddle pushing against steel string. Unless your divebombing like Dime or EVH and Slayer the string wont or shouldnt pop out under normal play. The Wound string saddles will maybe look hourglass shaped over years of constant abuse and need replacing but sand it down flat again if need be the screw are long enough to not run out !
@@herehere3139 Id say I change them about once a month I think. Hard to tell. You?
Yikes. Once a month for me, you need some better strings.
I bought a new guitar back in 2018 that came with a FR Special. I played that guitar for 3 years without any issues. However, after 3 years I started having an issue with strings popping out of the lock blocks. No matter how tight I had the saddle screws, strings would still pop out. At one point I had gone through 3 sets of strings in one month because of this. I did some research and discovered that this seems to be a common problem with the FR Special. It is because of the Zinc lock blocks. Over time the strings will start to wear grooves into the lock blocks and that's when the strings start popping out. I had two choices. I could have just ordered another set of saddles and I would probably have no issues for another 3 years, but then the problem would most likely return. The other option was to replace the bridge with an OFR an fix the problem once and for all. I chose the second option and replaced the bridge with an OFR. The guitar has worked great ever since. Also the OFR seems to be much tighter and better made than the Special, and the brass sustain block also made a huge difference. I am happy that I made the switch.
I feel i need to point out that your arguments about the Zinc Alloy parts being lesser because they are an alloy fall apart when you remember that Steel is an alloy of Iron and Carbon abd that Brass is an alloy of Copper and Zinc.
Brass is probably a more durable Zinc alloy than the nameless "Zinc alloy" listed by Floyd Rose, but it is still a Zinc alloy. Alloys are also usually harder and more durable than straight elements because their atoms are more closely packed together during the process used to create them.
This is a really great point
Great video, but i actually disagree with the 'special' viewpoint. Offering it to new floyd users also offers them all the issues that they provide, driving them away from the idea of a floating trem as a whole. (souring their opinion of the conpany, due to an inferior cheaper product.) My first floyd was a special, and from then on I hated floyds with a passion UNTIL i finally got a 1000 and was plesently surprised.
Great insight! I never even thought of that! Thanks brother
Knife edges on the Special are in my experience, metallic butter. They get dented from removing them and accidentally bumping them into the posts.
Dude. SERIOUSLY!! Did you have a certain color or finish?
Black, the black ones always suck. @@nikaxeguitar
How about a used Floyd Rose buyer's guide? Maybe including what to check when buying a used guitar with an FR, what wear and tear to look for etc. I think that might be pretty useful for people buying used shredders.
Such a good idea dude. Thanks!
The FR Special and 1000 are a response to the patents expiring, not cheap licenced bridges.
Manufacturers haven't needed to pay for a licence for quite some time, and it's not as if the Chinese back street builders that flooded the market gave a flying fuck anyway.
Ibanez fell foul of a lawsuit over the Edge Pro because the patent on the low profile design hadn't expired, unlike the regular where the fine tuners push down against the locking studs.
The reason why a Schaller Lockmeister is generally considerably cheaper than the FR Original (despite being the same quality and from the same manufacturer) is because FR industries aren't taking their cut because it has no FR branding and isn't sold as a Floyd, therefore Schaller can offer theirs at a more competitive price.
Schaller LockMeister all day...
AMEN
Nuclear choice floyd roses are extremely overated, I myself love the Zero resistance 2 tremolo from ibanez. At the end of the day whatever works for you
@@shanobi1kanobi This is an awesome comment. I too love ibanez tremolos!
@@nikaxeguitar hell yeah!
The comments about different alloys is very misleading.
The Gotoh GE1996t and the Japanese Ibanez Edge bridges use a different, non ferrous (or at least non magnetic) alloy for the part of the saddle that contacts the baseplate.
The string housing is steel.
The difference is that whatever alloy Gotoh is using (assuming they still manufacture the Edge for Ibanez) is clearly of a denser and harder material than Sung-ill is using for the FR special.
The FR Special saddles are notorious for premature wear and stripped threads.
Personally I suspect some of the problems are due to the user error, thinking the string lock studs have to be tightened more than necessary.
Many a home mechanic has learned the benefits of having a torque wrench and what the torque settings should be for critical bolts after they've stripped a thread!
Great breakdown, man! Totally agree-sometimes it’s not just the gear but how we handle it. A torque wrench is a game changer for sure!
They are slightly different but nothing that makes any big difference Floyd Rose original is the best in my opinion but Floyd Rose special isn't bad. Wilkinson locking tremolo are amazing also
Agreed!
Thanks heaps for clearing up the confusion. The name “super special” feels misleading. Like you’re getting something that’s “super special” when in fact the opposite is true.
Yes sir!
Keisel only uses original Floyds...so I have four of those guitars. These Floyds did not jack up the price of the guitars $1000 even over fixed or Wilkinson bridges. They ranged from $1300 to $2200 new, and the higher cost ones had quilted tops, custom finishes, etc.
If a guitar is marked up $1000 for an original Floyd, that's a no-go for me!
Also have several peavey locking trems on guitars. Ive only had to replace the little string lock blocks on these, and the long screws that engage those blocks...inexpensive maintenance items.
Floyd Rose may have invented it, but Ibanez perfected it with the Edge / low pro edge. have owned 2 FR orig., and 5 soon to be 6 Edges. Edge wins hands down every time. Just wish they sold them to customers.
Awesome!
When you say, "Hardened-steel saddle-screws and zinc alloy saddles (regarding the special)," I assume you mean the saddle-mounting/intonation-adjusting retainer screws in front of the saddle... the ones that, essentially, are set and forget, correct? I mean, once the guitar is intonated, I find myself virtually never removing them.
Sure... they are made of a different metal and I guess that is the point but unless a person is constantly finding him or herself neccessarily altering their intonation, I don't and have never found that to be an issue.
Same goes for knife-edges. Ive heard of guys complaining that they wear out. However, Ive been playing on a "Special" in my very 1st electric from 1995-ish and have never found it to be problematic.
The one noticable difference Ive found when using an "Original" is the action of the fine tuners and their relative moving parts being far smoother than less expensive versions. Beyond that, which makes no difference while actually playing the instrument or to what degree they actually retain tuning, I would never discount one over another for performing at its actual purpose.
In other words... Hey, new guys, the "Special" you have in your guitar is not the problem and they ALL go out of tune with use. You SHOULD be WANTING to contantly retune your instrument... because, unless you have true temperament frets, it is impossible to be completely and perfectly intonated all the way from open strings to the meedly-meedlies. Its just the nature of the instrument.
I love your videos and I use your tips for buying different threms
Thanks so much! I really appreciate your support myfriend
When I was a teenager Floyd Rose Special is the reason why I these days wouldn’t touch a sub 1000$ guitar with a floyd. Best Floyd type is the Original Edge on Genesis series Ibanez rg for sub 1000$ guitars
I have an HM strat made in 2020. Great guitar, but at $1200, it should have come stock with something better than the Floyd special. The collar insert is already broken on it and I replaced it with a special hotrod that I cannibalized from a schecter with a misaligned neck. It's not a permanent replacement though. I'm planning to get a Gotoh ge1996t to put in it. I don't know why Fender didn't just use those to begin with, considering the guitar is already made in Japan. Seems like a pretty dunderheaded choice on the part of Fender. What say you?
Because the Special and 1000 were designed to be dirt cheap OEM for mass production.
It also allows brands to market that their guitars come with official and even original Floyd Rose (because the 1000 series says "Original" on the plate) bridges.
@@pauln6803 it just seems to me that at $1200 for a new guitar in 2020, at least dropping a Floyd 1000 or a Gotoh ge1996t wouldn't have that significant of an effect on cost, especially considering that Gotoh bridges are excellent quality and made a train ride away from where Fender Japan makes their guitars. I think that would reduce the cost of obtaining them. Also considering that Fender routinely equip Floyd Rose 1000 bridges on guitars pricing significantly lower than the HM strat. Take the Charvel pro mod stuff and DK stuff, for example. 4/5 the price while having Carbon reinforced necks, ebony fingerboards, Seymour Duncan pickups, and Floyd Rose 1000 bridges. FMIC is clearly able to offer serious bang for your buck and It seems they cut a corner by using the Special that they didn't need to cut. Using a better bridge wouldn't have affected their profit margin so drastically. They still could have made money by using A Floyd 1000 or a Gotoh ge1996t, which I can buy all day long for less than $200. So, I can buy a brand new Gotoh 1996t for less than $200, imagine how much money could a company as massive as Fender could have saved buying them in bulk to equip as OEM on a bunch of otherwise outstanding guitars. By the way, I really like my HM strat. That's the only miscue on Fender's part with them. So, when I can afford to buy one, I'm getting a Gotoh 1996t to put in it. The bridge I pulled from that schecter is working fine, but it's still a Floyd special. It's only a matter of time before parts start failing.
I've owned all three. The original is the only one I still own and use. If anyone wants a 1000 series, I'll dig it up and send it to you for the price of shipping.
for free??
I have a floyd rose question. Why does my string keep slipping out of the lock? Not breaking but if i do a full step bend or something it goes super flat or just slips all the way out it is so annoying please help. By the way i have a Floyd Rose Special if that makes any difference to the answer.
It’s happening at the saddle?
@@nikaxeguitar yes usually the high E sometimes the B. And specifically my A string keeps slipping out of it’s winding (the wire wrap slips off of the core wire). Every time i change strings there is always these specific problems with one or two strings
@@nikaxeguitar and i know I shouldn’t but i even tried cranking down the lockers but it didn’t do much
So a Floyd Special with new saddles and block can perform like a Floyd 1000?
Potentially, but generally the knife edges on a special are also bad. Look at Floyd’s website. Even the knife edges of the special they have on the page are cut horribly
I use nothing but the original floyd rose tremolo since 1984
That’s what’s up! Probably a really good tremolo. Am I right,
My 11 year old is wanting a dimebag Dean or washburn guitar... How do I tell the difference between an original, 1000 and special? For all I know someone could swap parts and give me a special but it's listed as an original. Thanks for the help.
Floyd rose special is made of less quality metal and alloys and wears out quicker and works fine until stuff wears. Floyd 1000 is a korean made floyd rose that is made with good steel. The Floyd Rode Original is pretty much the same as 1000 but made in Germany and way overpriced.You will be fine with a special and just replace parts as needed, you can even by an ofr base plate by itself if needed.
The Jackson JT580LP by Tekeuchi is best or at least equal too ofr.
I have an old Jackson dinky (98'?) with the tekeuchi and it is still in amazing shape. My tech guy and I were discussing replacing it last year, but when we opened it up and looked, there was virtually no significant wear. I'm not a bat-$hit crazy bar guy, but I have been using it for a long time.
What about the FR with a laser engraved logo and a W in a circle on the bottom of the base plate? What are these? Seeing them come on low cost budget guitars.
That’s a really good point. I need to look into this
You could make a video with differences between original floyd rose and original ibanez edge
Such a great idea. Thank you very much!
gotoh 1996..😊
I finally did it
Nice 😊
IMO: Schaller Lockmeister outperforms original floyd rose. By a lot. It is smooth, stable, tuned, heavy weight, a lot of sustain, responsive...I am very happy with it. Maybe I should make a demo.
Nah, they're essentially the same in all aspects. Weight can be tuned by different size blocks but an original floyd is a high quality part.
Cheaper too... got 2 last year for $197 ea WITH an R2 nut and 42mm nickel plated brass block. Even if you have to swap the nut and block, it's still cheaper than a branded Floyd Rose.
It shouldn't because they are made to the same standards by the same manufacturer.
Schaller had some serious QC problems a while back, which resulted in Suhr no longer offering the FR Original on their guitars, instead opting for the Gotoh GE1996t.
Even recently Thomann experimented with tricking out one of their Harley Benton guitars, and they opted for ABM, saying Schaller isn't the best.
And they sell Schaller hardware!
The point is that the chances of having manufacturing defects are as high on the Lockmeister as the FR Original.
@pauln6803 I am sharing my experience: I have an OFR, an Special FR, a Jackson FR licensed and a Edge...and the Lockmeister has the best performance, and I bought it in Thomann's. At least, this is my experience at this precise moment....and I hate floating tremolos.
hey what is the best intonation tool for a floyd and an ibanez? or do i have to buy 2
A Peterson strobe tuner is the best tool.
@@AuntAlnico4 mine doesn't work that fine but I mean for adjustment because normally I do it by hand and it sucks
Original series hands down the best Floyd bridge.....
🤘🏻 original Floyd rose 🤘🏻💯🎸
Yessir!!
if you argue that the zinc block is less good due to it being an alloy you will never guess what brass is ;) zinc blocks have been used by Fender on their american standard bridge and they are quite ok, zinc is much much softer than hardened steel and for the saddles is it the wrong choice (they will strip out quite easily) , otherwise excellent presentation
Not the same on a strat. Strats aren't using locking saddles.
The company didn't want people knowing how cheap made their stuff is
Gotoh GE1996T, we're done here. 😀
The Special turns every piece of wood into a POS!
Yessir!
Something that would take a minute to tell, you get to spend 18 minutes on.
I know! I’m so lucky
Just sub
Appreciate it brother!
They're made with vibranium alloy, duh. lol
Forever 🙅♂️
That poor crt
What?
First