How to replace the timing belt, water pump & rollers on the Volvo 850, S70, V70, etc. Pt 1-2 - VOTD
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ส.ค. 2024
- Timing belt service: 3 to 7 hours ($250 / $600 / $1,200)
Timing belt, tensioner, and rollers replacement: 3 to 5 hours, with water pump 4 to 7 hours. Vehicles with hydraulic tensioner.
NOTE: New water pumps have a thinner casting than the old pumps. You should get new water pump bolts if replacing an original water pump.
This is part 1 of 2 of my Volvo S70, 850, V70 timing belt replacement video. I have replaced several timing belts on these cars and have not had any problems to date.
Part 2 of 2: • How to replace the tim...
How to check for warn parts: • Timing belt change, wh...
What parts do I usually purchase: • My take on timing belt...
Serpentine belt tool can be purchased here: robertspinner.c...
Torque values:
- Tensioner Roller, 30 Ft Lbs.
- Idler Roller, 18 Ft Lbs.
- Hydraulic Tensioner, 18 Ft Lbs.
- Water Pump, 15 Ft Lbs.
How to replace the timing belt on vehicles built 1999 and newer: • How to replace timing ...
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Disclaimer: • In this video I share ...
Basic car care TH-cam channel: / rspiwin
How to search my videos: • How to find videos on ...
Visit my Website for special tools, my wish list and other helpful information: www.RobertDIY.com
Support Robert, become a Patron: / robertdiyafterdark
I have to say, 100% honest and accurate information provided here. As a Volvo tech of 20+ years, I can say this guy is VERY credible.
I can also tell you all... the stock 8xx and S series jacks are junk and prone to failure. ALWAYS use jack stands. NEVER rely on just the jack.
kevin james The tentioner bolt: I always pressure wash the front of the motor and let it dry. Then use a QUALITY T45 dipped in 90 weight, and cover it, and the bolt with JB weld and let it set for 20 min. NO chance of stripping. Works like a charm. (I have had a couple break though).
kevin james
Thank you for the support and for watching. :)
kevin james
I agree 100%. I had one blow out one me just after pulling a jack stand. I'm so glad the tire was on.
I am doing my first timing belt now. I have the timing marks lined up perfectly at the top, but the two marks on the crankshaft are one tooth over from the mark that is supposed to be between them. I'm assuming that this is not out of time enough to greatly affect the cars performance, but not really sure. Should I just line everything up before putting the new belt on?
Hey Robert, I Just wanted to thank you for your support last night of the phone, and for what you have done for the Volvo community and its owners. Your video's and tutorials point out what other video's just don't do.
You fill in the in-between steps, that no other Internet repair video's do.
Thank You for sharing your expertise.
I actually almost gave up in my driveway on my 2000 V70 SE today, but through a lot of watching and taking notes of your video's "I actually got it done". Can't thank you enough, Ray
+John Doe you are welcome.
Awesome job sir. Looking at a S70 for my son that needs water pump. This video is very helpful as I haven't wrenched in years because I'm battling cancer. Anyway I was professional mechanic for decades before that. This will probably be first chance I get to work on a car with my son so I appreciate your thorough work with this vid. Take care. Thank you
Susan Mikos Thanks for watching. What year is the S70? - th-cam.com/video/L4g-w4OXeBw/w-d-xo.html
9 years down the road and this information is still saving folks hundreds in maintenance mechanic costs and thousands in "dang, I should have changed that thing like the manual said" costs. Thank you for being so generous with your knowledge!
you are welcome. thanks for watching.
@@RobertDIY My pleasure. I also dig the fact that you go fishing in your Volvo! Shows that you do use and drive them yourself.
I saw that tool bolt painted yellow, and instantly knew this is a man with real experience to listen to!
LOL, thanks for watching.
I have a 97 Volvo 850 GLT and have done all repairs myself since owning it....I just want to say thanks to Robert....His DIY videos have made all the difference...Without Robert's DIY videos I couldn't have done any of it...Great DIY videos so thanks again Robert ..
That is awesome! Thanks for watching.
Hi Robert-thankyou so much for this video-it's a job that I've been putting off for months now, because the procedure is never totally clear in the the service manual. You've covered it in such a way that I'm off to the garage to get down to work!Kind regards, Stef, Amsterdam NL
iksnizdaso Good deal. Not a task to be put off for long. ;)
I just bought a used S70. With your knowledge and videos I’m able to restore it. It’s really fast car for the economy. I was looking for videos to upgrade the custom wheels but nothing on them. Well I just wanted to say thank you for staying on top of this vehicle.
You are welcome
@@RobertDIY the passenger side hood latch won’t close. Any suggestions? One side shuts the others open
@@RobertDIY I got the Volvo s70 fixed and running great. All of a sudden I’m the morning a huge pile of oil by the harmonic balance. I removed the entire timing covers nothing. But oil is dripping. The crankshaft seals dry. You know what it is
Thanks. Several people told me that the tool count helps a lot so I do my best to remember to post it. I actually film the tools at the end of the job so I don't miss any.
Hi Robert. First of all, awesome trip you took to help out folks! I still have several videos to watch of your trip. I just took 2 days to replace my timing belt, tensioner, tensioner pulley, idler pulley and water pump. My 95 850 wagon has 186K now. I also replaced the fuel filter and cabin air filter. So it's running really well. Thanks for all your help with the timing belt videos! It went smoother than I expected. My best to you and your wife.
Ricky P. Thank you Rick, glad the videos helped.
Thank you! My mechanic just flagged my timing belt as an issue -- I don't drive much so I haven't hit the mileage, but the car's 22 years old. Now that I know what he's talking about and what's involved with replacement, I'm not driving that thing till it's time to go back there. Bus only for a couple of weeks.
Probably a good idea.
My Volvo hero here! I now buy those 850's systematically, all thanks to this good man.
Glad I could help!
Excellent video by a knowledgeable technician. Very clear explanation which helped me make a purchase decision on an older Volvo. Thank you !
avion195 You are welcome. Thanks for watching.
No matter where I am in life, I know Robert DIY got my back.
😜
A very important point on the T45 socket. That bit has a very shallow fit into the bolt. Take your time. Many of these how-to videos skip over the finesse sometimes required to pull a bolt or slip a belt on. Robert has a way of making note of these areas where experience and finesse is often glossed over. Well done!
Thanks for watching
As a first timer mk1 v70 owner, you sir are an lifesaver!
Thanks for watching
My 00 GLT SE didn't have any way to line the cam gears up using the timing cover. The cam gears line up with (what I'm assuming) some permanent marker lines someone from the factory drew on the block, gears end up both pointing straight up. There is no hydraulic tensioner. I was really weirded out to see it like that, but I was able to get it done with the help of your videos. You're a gem to Volvo owners everywhere. Thank you so much!
Sounds like you used the wrong video.
th-cam.com/video/YpOYTVpzzic/w-d-xo.html
Robert DIY Looks like it. I have a P80 but it does have the RN engine. Thanks for the clarification.
Thank you so much for this great tutorial Robert. Just changed all the timing components in my 1998 S70 with ease thanks to your videos.
Glad it helped
Thanks for your time posting this! I just picked up a mint 04 XC70 for my 16 year old daughter for $800.. with 207k miles who knows when the belt was last changed but that's the first thing on the list. Runs great but I figure with some easy service she will see another 50k miles.
+Guy Madison Good deal.
+Robert DIY i has a timing belt replaced with cam seals and crank seal what i want to ask is it was done by a shop and my car is running hot i paid 270.00 for the timing belt and everything water pump ect. some one told me it would be the water pump but i know my heater core is leaking would that be why it is running hot? or wiuld it be the water pump?
+Jennifer Quinn my car is c70 con. 2000 2.4 engine
THE best video on the crank marks! Although my 1994 is slightly different, I have a single tiny notch at the back of the trough of the correct alignment on the crank.
What's interesting is that I did this yesterday and my marks on the pulley were off compared with yours when you said it seems to align with the belt. I'm sure that's indeed a secondary check.
It was double checking this that assured me that I only had the single notch on the crank tooth, so much so that I shifted the timing by one tooth as the timing was previously incorrect by that one tooth.
Having done this and fixed the variable intake (had the manifold off to do the PCV) and noticed this VVIS mechanism which was seized and I didn't even know existed!), the car is utterly transformed.
I can admit to being the person who changed the cam belt the previous time but I just set it up as it was before that and that was done by a garage.
At 300,000 miles, I had just put the power loss down to old age, so happy right now. It seems that I've been driving around for about half it's 25 years life with mistimed cams, certainly the last two belts and the previous one has been on for over six years.
Thanks again for the videos Robert, always with super detail and to the point.
Wow! Glad you figured that stuff out.
Thanks for this video, I've driven Volvo cars for about 25 yrs but mostley single cams i.e. 140, 240,740,940 so this flick saved me a lot of hours, even with the Haynes manual it's helpful to see it 'for real'. Great job and cudos to you.
thomas nilsson Thanks for watching.
Great Video my guy! Just picked up an S70 T5 and the Timing Belt is NUMBER ONE priority. Genuinely hate they went with a belt on this car. Last one I had went to 270k on the original belt, but i;m not willing to gamble that again. Searched for this car for years, and I've finally got her. Doing it right this time.
th-cam.com/video/-2oIeIhpV44/w-d-xo.html
You are welcome. Glad you found them.
Hi Robert,
Well today I replaced my serpentine belt (it was split down the middle, between two grooves), the tensioner and it's pulley, and the idler pulley (screwed into I think the power steering bracket). Spend about 45 minutes looking for the bottom bolt from the tensioner bracket that dropped into the engine bay, but found it. All in all, went better than I expected. There is a cap on the separate idler pulley that needed to be pried off to get to the 12mm bolt holding it on. I so appreciate your videos. Rick. Happy Holidays!
p.s. Tomorrow I will try to install the trailer hitch wiring. I got a hitch and installed it too.
Ricky P. Nice and cool about the hitch.
Thanks for the info. I did notice that some cars do not have them.
I'm thinking about buying a 1998 V70. Your videos will help me a lot. Thanks for sharing.
Richard Wasserman th-cam.com/video/L4g-w4OXeBw/w-d-xo.html
Robert DIY Thanks. You are a Volvo g0d. I've owned four 240s and one 140. They were all purchased as high mileage vehicles. The only work I've paid to have done was rebuilding an automatic transmission which I pulled and reinstalled myself. the V70 I'm looking at is only $800.
Richard Wasserman th-cam.com/video/lRl8A_HIgeo/w-d-xo.html
Robertthank you so much bruh😭😭 keep on making these volvo vids for us pleasee
Ok
For anyone doing this job. I recently did it using this diy and everything went well. I will say the belt certainly takes some manipulation around the back of the crank balancer. It wasted the first belt because I thought the bottom was fully seated and therefore the belt appeared to short… it simply wasn’t fully seated at the bottom of the crank.
Thanks for sharing.
You are welcome. Thanks for watching.
Thank you and thanks for watching.
Counter clockwise is the way. As explained, you can pull the bolt out of the roller and replace the roller that way.
Just a quick thank you Robert, this video and part 2 completely helped me to do a successful timing belt change, again top job Sir and thank you!!
You are welcome.
Best video of this job I have seen thus far
Thanks for watching.
Those dimples on the crank pulley/harmonic balancer are balancing holes drilled in by the factory when the whole crank was balanced at the factory and will be in unique positions on different cars, however you could write down where they end up as a rough reference.
I just changed my timing belt on my Volvo S70 and your video was really great for this job. All the best/Johan
Good deal, glad it helped. Thanks for watching.
A 1/2 ratchet is too small, I tried it today. I hear that a 3/4" is too big, but I have not confirmed this. The way I went about doing it was taping pennies to my 1/2" breaker bar. Worked very well, I was surprised.
Fantastic work as always, much appreciated on these videos!
I switched to a Craftsman, bent handle thin profile ratchet, it fits with nice clearance.
Hey Robert I recently bought a v70 for a winter car and your videos have been my go to resource for how to fix it up and make it road ready. Keep up the awesome work!
Glad to help
th-cam.com/video/-2oIeIhpV44/w-d-xo.html
Hi Robert. Just a very big thank to you :) You saved my day and my hydraulic tensoner !
Cool, thanks for watching.
don't use RTV any where near the water pump(maybe the bolt tops but I seem to have no issues) ..it will make them leak ive seen...USE bearing grease light coat to hold the paper gasket to the block then put the pump on dry ...works like a charm. Just did mine 5/19/2019
Cool, I never put anything on mine.
I did it your way on a 4 pillar lift. this means limited acces from below but better from up top as i can raise the car after my will. As i see it removing the crank sprocket is much easier than fiddling about with the cambelt trying to get it past the protruding parts. Removing the waterpump is also much easer. So if i was to do this again in 180000 km, or ten years i would remove the pulley for sure. because it was extremely fiddly to get stuff back into place, with a 4 pillar lift. After 450000 km the pump was not leakning but still toast... it would not have run for long. the belt itself over ten years, and full of cranks.
Awesome! Most people do not have a lift or the tool to remove the crank/harmonic balancer.
Thank you. Another very good video. Very informative.
Thanks for watching.
You do excellent work. Ive come to your videos many times.
Thanks for watching.
Hi Robert I was wondering if you have a video showing how to replace the camshaft and crankshaft seals on this vehicle? I also have a question regarding my 1997 Volvo 850 T5 car, it seems to have a problem when I drive it and after it is really warmed up it begins vibrating especially if I'm at a stop light and the car wants to shut off. It has turned off and not wanting to start. What could be the cause of this? Thanks a lot for your time and great videos.
the volvo man! love your videos, sir, you're really good!
Glad you like them!
@@RobertDIY yes sir, thanks again! I just did my timing belt on my 2000 v70 xc, n now my b cam is over advanced, probably because I didn't turn past the marks and backpedal to perfect alignment, to remove the slack from the vvt. So after I lived them up, it moved slightly when I installed it apparently? But idk.. lol the car still runs decent, but I gotta go work on it on Tuesday again to get it perfect!
Thank you for making these videos. Helps alot!
+noboody2088 Thanks for watching.
ever think about inserting a ratchet into the tensioner instead of that cube I have the same car that's what I use. thanks for posting video tho.
Are you saying that you can repeat this process over and over again? Dry out the chambers and start it again? How long does it actually run? If it is flooding, you have an injector problem. Are the injectors sticking open? Do you have any engine codes? Are all of the relays at the fan connected? Does it start easy? I would start with reading the codes. What year car is it?
You said the timing on the cams is off. You need to check compression. A home method of doing this is to pull all of the spark plugs except 1. Then crank the car over by hand and see if it gives any resistance. If you can turn it over twice without any resistance you have a bad cylinder (no compression). Pull that plug and install the next one. After you check all 5 one at a time you will know which cylinders are bad. If you have compression check check for another issue.
one thing is it started right up one day. the very next day is when it wouldn't start. it had rained pretty good on that day
never had any problems before now.
+Gerald Hart a car needs 5 things to run. You need to find out what is missing.
I live by capitalheights md. Ballard auto shop on central ave. is my last resort. tried to find fair help where I can. someone who cares about the work not just money.I know some about this its hard on your own. thanks G.H.
NO. Most cars require the crank "harmonic balancer" removal but these cars DO NOT. The only time I would remove the balancer is if I had a leaking crank seal which I have never seen one of these leak in the front.
I don't understand the question. If you are referring to the belt that was removed, it likely had less than 80,000 miles on it and was less than 8 years old.
Very good descriptive video. Thank you for posting such a detailed video
You are welcome
An adapter will not fit you have to use the bit assembly that I used. There is a slight chance that your front motor mount is torn and your motor has shifter a little forward (to the right).
...the nut on the new roller. My guess is that I could only get it torqued to about 10 to 15 ft lbs. I then put something on the treads, hoping and praying that the nut does not come off the bolt. Maybe you should/could put some lock-tite on it.
One guy told me that he got it off by putting vice grips on the washer around the T-45. Try that first.
Interesting that this volvo is set up very similar to my lexus some stuff even looks the same, heck aisin has parts on my engine too!
I need a mechanic like you in my neck of the woods to run through my car and just replace those things before they go.
Hmmm, try to find a decent mechanic to change the oil and tell you what else needs to be done.
@@RobertDIY Trust me that's easier said than done. The mechanic we had that strictly dealt with foreign cars was switching parts out that were not part of the repairs. So other than the dealership it is really hard trying to find an honest mechanic that actually know what they are doing and or that don't steal your good parts and replace them with old parts which guarantees that you most likely will have to have your vehicle back in their shop to service what they have stolen.
Ouch
@@RobertDIY Exactly!
Yes that is the one. It should be the same for all of the 850's and early '98 S/V70's.
After it does NOT start with the relay unplugged, plug it back in to see if things start working right again. Hopefully you did NOT pinch a wire under the intake manifold or somewhere causing the injectors to open full time.
If you can't find the problem there, post the problem on Matthews Volvo site and/or Volvo Forums.
I suggest you inspect the roller first. If the roller is good, leave it. I'll send you my timing belt information video that shows you how to check the rollers. If it is tight, leave it, especially if it was changed LAST TIME the belt was done.
This has happened to me twice. Both times I replaced the roller and left the bracket on. The roller has a bolt in it. You can pull the bolt and the screw will stay. Then install the new roller on the old bracket. The problem with this is tightening...
Thank you Robert, the timing belt and pu,p were done, cost was close to $1000 including replacing the seals around the crankshaft. They also did oil change and antifreeze. Now the radiator warning light comes on even though the reservoir is filled. The warning light goes out after it is fully warmed up. Why is that?
John Tao Maybe the float is stuck. Take it back and have them check it out.
Yes, there are a lot of cars that will be similar. Especially if they are DOHC motors. Design runs the same in many cars, just different on the crap you have to pull to get to the guts.
you´re the man Robert
Thanks for watching
Thank you Robert!Nice that I can learn from you.Hallo,from a cold Sweden!
Thanks for watching.
Hey Robert!Is there som video,when you put the timingbelt back.It's' looks so difficult.!? from Hasse in Sweden!
Not to bad.
So it is getting to much gas for some reason. Is the temp sensor plugged in good? It is located under the thermostat. Before you start the car, turn the key on and see what temperature reading you are getting. Does it run smooth? Also, double check the intake manifold, make sure it is on right and nothing is pinched under it.
Unplug the fuel injector relay at the fan scrod. See if the car starts then. It should NOT. For some reason, I think all of your injectors are full open.
+Robert DIY, As far as the V70 series, it's worth noting that this timing procedure is different for the second generation V70's; I.E. after M.Y. 2000 - Prior to this, there was also a change in exactly how the serpentine belt was routed. I believe this was so the alternator was turning adequately.
So you need to choose the proper video?
th-cam.com/video/YpOYTVpzzic/w-d-xo.html
P2 Volvo
th-cam.com/video/gt9w-ZSxs9I/w-d-xo.html
Robert DIY, Please modify your title to reflect which years this procedure covers. Yes, the earlier 850, S70 & V70 were pretty much all the same. However, the timing procedure for late model V70's changed, due to the tensioner.
Just looked at the video and the sticker says 3/05 @ 96,500. It was changed 4/13 @ 169,600 according to the odo. So, this belt was 8 years old and had 73,000 miles on it.
You are welcome.
You will need to pull the head and change the bent valves. There is a chance, about 10% that a valve cut into a piston. You can get the valves and replace them yourself. You're likely looking at spending about $500 on that job if you do it yourself. If you send it to the shop, at about $250 to that.
I never replace seals that are not leaking unless I have the shaft part out. The crank seals never leak unless you have a clogged PCV system and the same for the cam shaft seals. I have a write-up on the cam seals, I'll PM the link to you.
As for the car stalling, what codes does it have?
Robert, I have decided to go and replace the timing belt and water pump but the garage didn't know which kit to get. He says there are two different ones from Gates one that is $560 and cheaper one $265, depending on the engine model. Are there two engine types for the '94 850? The Gates parts are TCKWP252A and the cheaper one is TCK252.
John Tao I don't think there are different timing belts on the '94 car. Order your parts from FCP or iPd depending on which side of the country you are located on. Also, I usually just order the parts I need, i.e., the belt, water pump, idler roller and tensioner roller. Cost is usually about $178. The hydraulic tensioner is usually good. I normally have one of those on hand that I pulled from a junk yard car, which cost me $20, they are $95 new so that would bring your total to $273. So you can have that on hand and if not needed, return it for a refund.
Yes, my 1/2 inch ratchet has to much slack in that hole.
Very good, professional, informative video. Thank you.
Danie Foflyge You are welcome. - www.gofundme.com/n49rw0
Excellent tutorial. The car looks brand new. Looks it has been well maintained and looked after. Btw is there any way to lock the crankshaft in place, something like a hole ? I Remember on a french car i worked on had a hole in the gearbox housing that you would put a 6 mm torx or allen key to lock the crankshaft.
+Kaktus Jack Yes, behind the starter. The crank almost NEVER moves. Just check the mark on it before you put the belt on it.
+Robert DIY Thanks for the reply.
Hi Robert DIY. Another great video that made my job so much easier. I have just changed the timing belt, idler and tensioner wheels on my 1994 850SE (petrol, manual). The visible rubber on my harmonic balance (the auxiliary belt pulley on the crank), was visibly perished. Do you know if that matters?
Incidentally, I like the hydraulic tensioner set up much more than the dodgy spring affair on the more modern cars.
Yes the rubber being cracked up and chunks falling out of the harmonic balancer is an issue, I did replace mine.
Did you do the job on the R? Glad you got the serpentine belt tensioner released.
Excellent! Very good and clear video. I am considering buying a 850R tomorrow with a broken timing belt and was wondering how hard it was to get in there. I realize I will probably have to get a valve job. Just wondering if you have heard of the heads cracking on these, and what the chances are my head and/or pistons could be bad?
thanks for replying so fast it runs just about under a min and it just floods it doesnt start easy and theres no codes and its a 98 s70 t5
Nice job Robert! I like the review of tools needed nice touch.
Thank you so much for the videos Robert! I've used your videos for a few repairs on my 850 thus far and I'm going to be replacing the timing belt/tensioner etc. in September. Is the timing belt replacement for an 850 very similar to the repair on the S70 model?
***** Same.
If you tried to start it with the timing "OFF" don't waste your time taking it to a shop unless you are ready to pay in excess of $2,000 to get the head replaced/repaired. Did you use my video to put things back together before you tried to start it?
Yea I went ahead and bought that R model. Looks really good so far. I got the head off today, and sure enough, bent valves. Probably half need replaced, I will take it to a machine shop on Monday.
Hey, I was wondering if I could pick your brain. I fount just a bit of oil in the hose between the tubo and intake. Not much, maybe a teaspoon worth. Is this something I should look into, or is a bit of oil in there normal?
Hey Robert DIY I had replaced it all and it had started fine a few times for 2 days even though I didn't drive my v70 t5 manual. I tried to start it today and it died and bogged after I have it gas with a little exhaust leak to the exhaust manifold. After that I tried starting it and now the belt just spins faster and doesn't catch with the starter it seems. I made sure timing was correct spinning the damper by wrench 4 complete revolutions and stayed in time. I tested the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor from a manual and it was all in spec. It seems like not enough compression even though it is in time. I tried to start again and it made a backfire noise. Fuel is getting to the fuel rail because I pressed the Schrader valve and fuel came out. Car has very little fuel but it wouldn't cause it to spin the belt almost twice as fast. I took spark plug out and grounded it to metal and no spark came out even though it worked the night before with no changes. The spark plugs are not wet either. What could it be!!! Help me!!! If you need a video I can post it
What did you reply? Want me to post video?
Ooops! That was a video that has a bad link. Lawnmower syndrome. th-cam.com/video/3InZVPLYgqs/w-d-xo.html
Robert DIY oh ok I never heard of that and I have been doin backyard mechanic work for years. I'll let you know if that solves it. I did hear earlier to try and crank for 2 min
Robert DIY ok I tried putting some oil in cylinders and letting the fuel dry out on spark plugs. That seemed to not have work either still does the same thing. Backfired a couple times out of no where but still has no compression and I know piston rings are good as well as the head because I had that done as well and I know the marks are on time. Why wouldn't I be getting compression? Everything moves accordingly but spins the belts fast like my video. I know there are two different serpentine belt patterns scattered about online for this 98 v70 turbo but the belt is tight as it should. I'm so lost.
Did you read my last reply? What else could it be? Also the RPM's don't flutter at all when trying to start
Hi Robert. Did you ever had any whining noise from the timing belt after change? I had timing belt, tensioner, tensioner roller, idler pulley and Walter pump chenged in my 95 850 turbo and there is a whine at about 1500 rpm. Some people on the forums say that it is the timing belt too tight. The tensioner is automatic so how can the belt be too tight? Wrong parts? Thanks.
I seen that post and no I have never had an issue like that. I have posted several videos of post timing belt changes and have never heard noises. The only thing I think you can do is to purchase another set of rollers and have the mechanic change the 2 rollers and see if that helps. I can't imagine then charging to much for that, you can change both rollers in 1 hour. If it helps, require a refund on the parts you took off. You can have them change 1 at a time to see which one was bad.
Thanks Robert you really helped me out today
You are welcome
Nope I believe this car has only gotten by on prayer. It all needs replacing. And I have the new parts sitting here. The water pump seriously needs replacing and I would feel better about changing it all out. I wish you would tell me that I have been trying to turning it in the wrong direction because I can get a grip easily if I turn it clockwise but not ccw.
Thanks Robert for your videos! They have helped me maintain our 1998 S90 for the last 4 years. Bought it brand new after military and love it. I do have a problem and hope you can help....I changed the timing belt, tensioner and tensioner pullies along with the water pump just in case. I went to set the timing by lining up the marks on the can sprockets with the groves in the timing cover. Intake lines up great but I con not get the exhaust to line up at all...I have turned the pully over and over to set the timing but they will not line up together...I am frustrated to the point it is just sitting in the drive way now. I did lock the cams together before taking the belt off..I have no idea why or how it is off by that much. Please can you help with this situation?
Did you align the timing before you removed the belt?
Robert DIY Yes sir I Did. But whatever reason the marks on the cams will not line up with the notches on the cover. Will i need to take off the belt again and aling the cams sepeartly? Hope not...thanks
Robert - Thanks for all your videos. Great contribution to helping all Volvo enthusiasts and owners. I looked through the comments but could not find the answer to is there a "rule of thumb" for when to replace a timing (serpentine) belt on servicing the S70 GLT? Thank.
Daniel Bevarly LOL, Owners manual. The timing belt and serpentine belt are quite different. Depending on the year, the timing belt is supposed to be replaced every 70,000 or 105,000 miles. My rule of thumb is, do it as outlined in the owners manual. If you have NO WRITTEN PROOF as to when it has been changed, it is due for change NOW. If any of those parts are making noise, it's due to be changed now. If the water pump is leaking, it is due to be changed now. As for the serpentine belt, if it has a lot of cracks in it, change it.
Daniel Bevarly th-cam.com/video/-2oIeIhpV44/w-d-xo.html
Daniel Bevarly th-cam.com/video/Omo83Nl75gw/w-d-xo.html
Hi Robert, I took another look under the hood, and there's no water leaking from the firewall coupling. I now think its my water pump....waters just leaking out near/side of my left front wheel. My question is would I need to replace the timing belt as well, or could I get away with just replacing the water pump? It's also making a sound when I start it up?
Where are you located? The timing belt and water pump is near the right front wheel. Is it the same side of the car as the timing belt cover?
My father said thank you. Do I take the plastic cover off the bottom to get to the water pump?
+Jennifer Ann no.
As long as the turbo has no shaft play you're likely ok.
hi there i recently had bent valves in motor and i took the head in and got it rebuilt now when i put everything back together the car starts for about a min or so and shuts off and will not start after i have to take out spark plugs to let excess gas to dry out what could this be ?
Hey Robert, I'm having issues with my tensioner on my 02' S40. I do not know the proper procedure of setting the tension, and when I do set tension and go for a drive the indicator bounces around and makes noise when lowering RPM. Any info helps
Thank You
th-cam.com/video/YpOYTVpzzic/w-d-xo.html
Robert, I replaced my timing belt on my 94 850 with an aisin kit, and would like to say that I did a beautiful job installing it perfectly. However, the timing belt has a spot in the rotation where it will slightly slither maybe 2 mm in the rotation is this normal or should I be worried?
Are you saying that the belt walks around on the sprockets? If so, it may be because the rollers are not OEM. 🤔 Probably wouldn't worry about it.
Hi Robert, I am not a DIY person as far as cars are concerned. I just had the timing belt replaced on my 2004 XC-V70 and since then the car drives terrible on highway above 100kph (60mph).What could be wrong?
Also You talked about water pump - does that also control the windshield wiper fluid? Because since the timing belt change the windshield fluid no longer sprays. Wondering if the pump is gone - it was working just fine before the service. The mileage on the car was about 168000 km (not miles).
Thanks for your advice.
If the car is running rough, I would have the shop double check the timing. If the timing is off the performance will suffer.
The windshield washing fluid has nothing to do with the car's water pump that cools the motor. Have you checked the fluid level in the windshield washing fluid reservoir? There is a chance that the pump or one of the water lines have been disconnected and the fluid is spraying under the hood/car.
Robert, appreciate all the videos you have done. I just had the valve gaskets done on my 98 Volvo S70. Before this was done the car ran perfectly, now it smokes immediately upon starting, keeps stalling, and won't go fifty ft without stalling. What could be wrong? Some people say it needs the timing done because it was not done when the gaskets were changed, could they be right? Thank you so much for you help.
Timing is a make or break situation, so no that is not true. However, if the mechanic did not set the timing correctly when they installed the cover, the timing can be off and cause running issues. You can check the timing yourself or simply take it back to the mechanic and ask them to fix whatever they messed up. Those covers really never leak. Not sure why the cover was pulled in the first place. Many mechanics do NOT know how to properly seal those covers. 98 Times of 100, there is a seal leak or some other issue which causes an oil leak. A cam seal or PCV problem will cause oil to be found on the cover. The start smoke may be caused by something not being installed properly, like a PCV tube or an intake tube. Is the car turbo? The sooner you notify the mechanic of the "post work issues" the more likely they will be to warrant their work. Volvo 850, S70 Timing Alignment Check - Auto Repair Series
Thanks. 5 year when i last time change timing belt, yes i know, 1 years too much, and now i need a little bit fresh my memory.
Miles not time. My limit is 10 years.
Changing the timing belt and everything else on an early 94 850. There don't seem to be any timing marks on the cam sprockets. I think I found the crank mark, but I've turned the engine over at least 1440 degrees now and I cant see any marks on the cam sprocket. On all the other P80s I've done, there have been clearly stamped lines to line up. Even on the crank pulley. Not so with this one. Not sure what to do.
if the vehicle is running, align the crank and make your own marks on the cams.
@@RobertDIY unfortunately, vehicle wasn't running when I picked it up. I guess it's what I'm going to have to do though.