I uploaded this video yesterday, almost immediately I got a notice for a copyright claim at 7:35 - 7:45 in the video. I’m perplexed at this moment in time, As I’ve been using that outro in my videos for years! Anyway I hope everyone has a great Sunday 👍
I’ve used these to great effect. For medium duty applications I’ve also used the old fashioned sleeved UPVC door frame fixers with are 80% cheaper. For heavier duty or for insulated plasterboard then I’ve made my own sleeve from 15mm copper tube. These are part of the “get me out of the shite” collection of my toolbox! Great video again.
Your video was released at the just the right time for me. In process of fitting out Utility in which the dot and dab walls have massive gaps between plasterboard and block work so quickly ordered a pack of fixing from Amazon to secure new shelf to wall. Installed today very easy to use and shelf secure. Ordered more fixing to use to secure heavy radiator to a dot and dab wall. Your videos are always to the point and useful.
I’m glad the video is useful. I should have included the fitting of the wall units on that wall where I fixed the baton for the base units, as they were all fixed using corefix fixings- but I only remembered yesterday 😂 Thanks for the comment 👍
Found out about these a couple of weeks ago. Needed to fit curtain poles to 1 inch thick insulated plasterboard that had been dot and dab fitted to the walls. These have worked a treat, because I used half a box of them I went out and got another box them just in case I ever need them.
Hi, good to see you again, those fixings are the bees knees, should have been available years ago, a bit pricey but gives you peace of mind when fixing heavy stuff to a wall,. Hope your keeping well mate, stay safe, best wishe's to you and your's, Stuart UK.
In thermalites etc I always drill 2mm less So a 8mm all the way through, then 10mm through plasterboard (though I usually don’t bother with the 10mm at) Great video as usual 👍
great fixings , i live these. a bit pricy but well worth it. there is always a place in my fixing organiser for these. great to see that uk women are the same as here. no thank you , no that looks lovely, straight in with dont scratch the wall.
It’s really weird, I must have watched the video over ten times during editing and never heard her voice during the editing process. I think she was actually saying “have I scratched the wall”, with the vacuum cleaner hose, as there was a mark below where I drilled - she held the hose for two of the three holes (but it was covered by the shelf). I really can’t believe that you can hear her say that, when I did not hear it once during editing! 👍
I've been using these myself for a while and they're generally very good. I've found that sometimes a 10mm hole can feel oversized and the screwhead doesn't bite properly... I think this is mainly in old stonework, where I might first drill an 8mm hole, then enlarge to 10mm with the hammer function turned off.
Yeah, oversized holes can be a problem in some substrates, and there are a few variables. My mate once bought a Silverline drill and you could drill a 10mm hole with a 6mm drill bit 😂 I think the screws with the Corefix are 5mm diameter, but it’s difficult getting 6mm or above screws the correct length without getting a mortgage, or they would be useful for such occasions. Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman annoying when that happens, sometimes you can get away with wrapping the plug with a few turns of insulation tape to thicken the end up.
Also worth mentioning what SDS Drill you use can alter hole diameter. I used a Makita DHR202Z 18V for years and lovely clean "correct" diameter holes. Then I bought a similar looking Makita HR2470WX 110V and its far more aggressive rotary hammer action produced holes typically 1/2 to 1mm larger diameter using the same SDS Plus drill bits.
Thanks Neil 👍 Not sure when dot and dab was introduced, but It’s been around for decades. I renovated an old terraced house in 1999 and had many of the rooms drylined, using that method. It had been around a long time then 👍
Pull out the steel insert using long nosed pliers, then insert the screw a little and pull the screw out with a claw hammer. Make sure you put a piece of wood in between the wall and the hammer to prevent damage 👍
Thanks, I’m not sure about the pendant, but I think the girlfriend got it from Ikea. Yeah, it took a while to get to 500K, thanks for the congratulations 👍
Have used both versions for a while. Very good in certain situations where smaller bolt head size is important, otherwise I use the Rawlplug frame fixings which are much less expensive and do the same job if you’re careful not to over tighten. £1 a pop makes the Corefix too expensive to use commercially unless it’s the only option.
I don't have to deal with this type of wall construction, but I did like how you had a vacuum hose pointed under the drill. Why didn't I ever think of that? I will now!
I often just use an envelope to catch the dust, but with a wall like this, all the drill dust tends to go down the gap between the wall and the plasterboard, but if you use a vacuum, it can vacuum up the majority of the dust 👍
@markware85 It's a pity Dewalt can’t incorporate dust extraction into their circular saws. I have this model- th-cam.com/video/Z3WZh6c6-h0/w-d-xo.html&t The saw itself, is awesome- I have cut all sorts with it, with no problems, but the dust extraction is totally useless! Thanks for the comment 👍
Also, for fixing that batten I’ve changed to foam adhesive. Those who don’t know will laugh at me. You won’t believe how strong it is until you try it yourself. So I won’t try and convince you here. But try it with a 2x4 and you won’t be able to get it off. So much faster and easier. I understand why you used the fixings for this video, just providing an alternative. Cheers
There is no doubting how strong foam adhesive is, but I prefer to fix to the solid wall. I know how destructive my girlfriend can be, so I don’t take chances (she’s like the Tasmanian Devil) 😂 Thanks for the comment 👍
It’s very difficult to do. Normally I just check that I don’t drill directly above or below an electrical outlet. In the kitchen I could easily see where all the pipes and cables were 👍
Low tech, I use a bradawl and poke through the plasterboard. Block feels and sounds different to cable or metal. You can buy detectors but unless you spend at least £100 then they are not that great. The £250 Bosch I have is very good but you aren’t going to pay that for DIY. It’s cheaper to hire someone to do it for you. DIFY as I call it 😁
Yes, I have filmed the process from start to finish, but some days the noise was horrendous as there were plant and machines outside, so I have to narrate over every single video. There should be about 20 videos, when I get around to editing them 👍
It sounds like either the drill bit is bent slightly, or the chuck on your drill is not running true, which has created an oversized hole! If I were you, I would inject some grab adhesive into the holes before inserting the plugs, then let the adhesive cure before tightening the screw 👍
The old Corefix video, was “how to fit a shelf to a dot and dab wall using Corefix fixings” or something along those lines. I thought I’d do a dedicated video on the Corefix fixings, as I get a lot of questions about which plasterboard fixing to use, when really, they need a dot and dab fixing 👍 Thanks for the comment 👍
Hi I I am sorry to disturb you again after watching your videos in past years and know I asked got a roof leak roofers come go take my money but leaks again I’m a vulnerable person
The kitchen is in my girlfriends house (it was being constructed by her late father, when he passed away), I ended up fitting the kitchen and installing multi-panels in the three bathrooms (nightmare jobs) 👍 There are some more pictures here- www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum1/viewtopic.php?t=106960 www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum1/viewtopic.php?t=107100 Thanks for the comment 👍
Remove the item that they are fixing to the wall, re-insert the screw (but don’t tighten it fully), then use a claw hammer and piece of timber to protect the wall and lever them out using the claw hammer 👍
If the wall is solid concrete, you can just use normal wall plugs and screws. These are only needed when the wall is drylined (dot and dab). If it’s a concrete wall with plasterboard adhered to it, then these will be perfect 👍
You can normally tell by tapping the wall with your knuckle, if it’s hollow you can tell by the noise it makes when you tap. If it’s been dot and dabbed it won’t sound as hollow. You can normally tell by where the wall is in the house, as stud partition walls are normally internal walls only (never one of the external walls of the house with a window etc.)
These are really easy to remove, just remove the item that they are fixing to the wall, then put the screw back in, but only give it a few turns- so that the threads just bite into the plug. Then grab the head with a pair of pliers and pull straight and the whole thing will come right out 👍
Just curious - what made you choose corefix for those ikea picture frame shelves? It seems a bit excessive when a few red plugs or even plasterboard fixings would be stronger than the actual shelf!
I always use corefix on dot and dab walls. If the daughter stands on the shelf, it will break and the fixings will still be there, so I won’t get any grief from the girlfriend, saying I didn’t fit it correctly 😂
Hello mate, hopefully you see this comment among all the others lol used these fittings to put up a tv bracket but I've found that some screws bite well and fully tighten but quite a few just spin in place and never get tight, why could this be? And how could I remedy it? Thanks in advance, its baffling me as i taped the length of the plug on the drill as to not go too far
The block behind the plasterboard- is it aerated concrete? Perhaps your masonry drill bit is drilling a hole that is too large? I’d pull the plug part out, inject a bit of grab adhesive and then reinsert the plug, then give it a couple of hours to cure. That should stop it rotating 👍
Look great Chaz ... Did u fit a 60mm piece of timber to act as a stand off for Kitchen sockets , waste pipes 🤔😂 Did I see a sneaky look at your kitchen ..
Thanks, the kitchen designer specified the 50mm gap between the wall and the base units. I think it was to help with the services etc. The worktops were plenty wide enough, so it worked well. The kitchen was in a house which was part built by my girlfriend’s late father, so I ended up fitting the kitchen for free. Pics here- www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum1/viewtopic.php?t=107100 Obviously I’m not a kitchen fitter and a couple of things stumped me, but luckily there were a couple of joiners and a kitchen fitters working on nearby houses, who helped me out 👍
Not a simple question, as there are pro’s and con’s to both. For strength, I think the Rigifix are better, but for speed and ease of use the Corefix are better. The Rigifix requires a slightly larger hole, the M6 version requires a 12mm diameter hole- 110mm deep. The M8 version requires a 16mm diameter hole that is 110mm deep. The corefix needs a 10mm diameter hole-100mm deep, regardless of whether you use the corefix 100 or corefix 120 👍
The steel insert bridges the void between the plasterboard and the block work that would otherwise cave in towards the blocks if only a nylon plug was used. That's the theory, anyway.
👍 My Mentor Ultimate Handyman QUICK-WITTED ULTIMATE HANDYMAN Take care and enjoy your weekend QUICK-WITTED ULTIMATE HANDYMAN From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 12:19
Great fixings, just be careful when knocking in the insert with a hammer as when you reach the end it is possible to knock the "lip" off the plug. I don't think it changes the performance of the fixing just looks a bit rough. Best to be careful at the end. I am using them to hold a 9u network cabinet to a dot and dab wall and it's very secure loaded up with equipment.
your safety standards have REALLY dropped lately my man, before you would have worn gloves for a job like this, NOT forgetting ear defenders, safety glasses AND a hi vis jacket, oh, AND a mask, what`s happened ............?
Thanks for the concern. My safety standards have not dropped, you will see that I was wearing safety glasses during the kitchen install. The shelves were being installed in my daughters bedroom, I was knelt on the bed with no footwear on, so retrieving anything at all was trying my patience!
Well, your comment made it on here. I have over 860 videos uploaded, sometimes when I switch the computer on and check the comments, I just want to pack the whole thing in. Some people, just have nothing better to do than criticise other people 😉
I uploaded this video yesterday, almost immediately I got a notice for a copyright claim at 7:35 - 7:45 in the video. I’m perplexed at this moment in time, As I’ve been using that outro in my videos for years!
Anyway I hope everyone has a great Sunday 👍
Thanks for such a detailed look into Corefix and fixing to dot & dab walls, always great to see our fixings being used! 😊
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
I’ve used these to great effect.
For medium duty applications I’ve also used the old fashioned sleeved UPVC door frame fixers with are 80% cheaper.
For heavier duty or for insulated plasterboard then I’ve made my own sleeve from 15mm copper tube.
These are part of the “get me out of the shite” collection of my toolbox!
Great video again.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Your video was released at the just the right time for me. In process of fitting out Utility in which the dot and dab walls have massive gaps between plasterboard and block work so quickly ordered a pack of fixing from Amazon to secure new shelf to wall. Installed today very easy to use and shelf secure. Ordered more fixing to use to secure heavy radiator to a dot and dab wall. Your videos are always to the point and useful.
I’m glad the video is useful. I should have included the fitting of the wall units on that wall where I fixed the baton for the base units, as they were all fixed using corefix fixings- but I only remembered yesterday 😂
Thanks for the comment 👍
Used these to fix a large floating shoe cupboard (the wife likes to test me) on to dot and dab.... 3 years and still up. Great vid as always.
Great to hear!
Thanks for the comment 👍
I used the corefix fittings to attach my TV to the wall, and I was impressed. So I will be using these fixings every time on dot & dab walls
Yeah, these are great and widely available 👍
These are essential for DIY. I've used hundreds of them mostly on modern houses. Pre 1980 houses take a normal plug. Great demo👍👍.
Absolutely
Thanks for the comment 👍
Just used these yesterday to fix a 65in tv to the wall holding so well many thanks for the video
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
Found out about these a couple of weeks ago. Needed to fit curtain poles to 1 inch thick insulated plasterboard that had been dot and dab fitted to the walls. These have worked a treat, because I used half a box of them I went out and got another box them just in case I ever need them.
Yeah, I normally keep a box of these handy, as they are so useful 👍
Thanks for the comment 👍
Hi, good to see you again, those fixings are the bees knees, should have been available years ago, a bit pricey but gives you peace of mind when fixing heavy stuff to a wall,. Hope your keeping well mate, stay safe, best wishe's to you and your's, Stuart UK.
Thanks, Stuart 👍
In thermalites etc I always drill 2mm less
So a 8mm all the way through, then 10mm through plasterboard (though I usually don’t bother with the 10mm at)
Great video as usual 👍
Thanks for the comment 👍
That kitchen looks awesome
Thanks 🙏
When there are 3 holes and doing the middle one first before the 2 sides! Never thought of doing it that. Such a simple idea when think about it.
👍
great fixings , i live these. a bit pricy but well worth it. there is always a place in my fixing organiser for these.
great to see that uk women are the same as here. no thank you , no that looks lovely, straight in with dont scratch the wall.
It’s really weird, I must have watched the video over ten times during editing and never heard her voice during the editing process. I think she was actually saying “have I scratched the wall”, with the vacuum cleaner hose, as there was a mark below where I drilled - she held the hose for two of the three holes (but it was covered by the shelf). I really can’t believe that you can hear her say that, when I did not hear it once during editing! 👍
@@ultimatehandyman sorry your right. have i scraped the wall with the fxxxxx hoover. ha ha
I've been using these myself for a while and they're generally very good. I've found that sometimes a 10mm hole can feel oversized and the screwhead doesn't bite properly... I think this is mainly in old stonework, where I might first drill an 8mm hole, then enlarge to 10mm with the hammer function turned off.
Yeah, oversized holes can be a problem in some substrates, and there are a few variables. My mate once bought a Silverline drill and you could drill a 10mm hole with a 6mm drill bit 😂
I think the screws with the Corefix are 5mm diameter, but it’s difficult getting 6mm or above screws the correct length without getting a mortgage, or they would be useful for such occasions.
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman annoying when that happens, sometimes you can get away with wrapping the plug with a few turns of insulation tape to thicken the end up.
Also worth mentioning what SDS Drill you use can alter hole diameter. I used a Makita DHR202Z 18V for years and lovely clean "correct" diameter holes. Then I bought a similar looking Makita HR2470WX 110V and its far more aggressive rotary hammer action produced holes typically 1/2 to 1mm larger diameter using the same SDS Plus drill bits.
A very useful video; thank you.
I’m glad you found the video useful
Thanks for the comment 👍
Congrats on the 500k Chez..
No idea what these are...but a great vid anyways..
Dot and dab walls a new thing,,?
N x
Thanks Neil 👍
Not sure when dot and dab was introduced, but It’s been around for decades.
I renovated an old terraced house in 1999 and had many of the rooms drylined, using that method. It had been around a long time then 👍
Great video. Can you knock the red plugs in so they are flush with the wall? They look like they stand proud by a mm or two. Thanks
Any tips on how to remove them? Ive got 6 to pull out or push in..
Resistant to my first onslaught!
Pull out the steel insert using long nosed pliers, then insert the screw a little and pull the screw out with a claw hammer. Make sure you put a piece of wood in between the wall and the hammer to prevent damage 👍
Lovely kitchen. Were those IKEA pendants? Congrats on 500K too 🎉
Thanks, I’m not sure about the pendant, but I think the girlfriend got it from Ikea.
Yeah, it took a while to get to 500K, thanks for the congratulations 👍
How do fhese compare to the regifix ones?
Have used both versions for a while. Very good in certain situations where smaller bolt head size is important, otherwise I use the Rawlplug frame fixings which are much less expensive and do the same job if you’re careful not to over tighten. £1 a pop makes the Corefix too expensive to use commercially unless it’s the only option.
Yeah, they are a bit expensive!
Thanks for the comment 👍
I don't have to deal with this type of wall construction, but I did like how you had a vacuum hose pointed under the drill. Why didn't I ever think of that? I will now!
I often just use an envelope to catch the dust, but with a wall like this, all the drill dust tends to go down the gap between the wall and the plasterboard, but if you use a vacuum, it can vacuum up the majority of the dust 👍
Or buy a Dewalt with dust extraction built in 😉
@markware85
It's a pity Dewalt can’t incorporate dust extraction into their circular saws.
I have this model- th-cam.com/video/Z3WZh6c6-h0/w-d-xo.html&t
The saw itself, is awesome- I have cut all sorts with it, with no problems, but the dust extraction is totally useless!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Also, for fixing that batten I’ve changed to foam adhesive. Those who don’t know will laugh at me.
You won’t believe how strong it is until you try it yourself. So I won’t try and convince you here.
But try it with a 2x4 and you won’t be able to get it off.
So much faster and easier.
I understand why you used the fixings for this video, just providing an alternative.
Cheers
There is no doubting how strong foam adhesive is, but I prefer to fix to the solid wall. I know how destructive my girlfriend can be, so I don’t take chances (she’s like the Tasmanian Devil) 😂
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman lol!!
Great fittings, will use these from now on. Btw, you mentioned checking the walls for pipes, etc. What's the best way to do this?
It’s very difficult to do. Normally I just check that I don’t drill directly above or below an electrical outlet. In the kitchen I could easily see where all the pipes and cables were 👍
Low tech, I use a bradawl and poke through the plasterboard. Block feels and sounds different to cable or metal. You can buy detectors but unless you spend at least £100 then they are not that great. The £250 Bosch I have is very good but you aren’t going to pay that for DIY. It’s cheaper to hire someone to do it for you. DIFY as I call it 😁
👍👍👍Thank you
Welcome 👍
Wow!! Did you fit that kitchen in?
Yes, I have filmed the process from start to finish, but some days the noise was horrendous as there were plant and machines outside, so I have to narrate over every single video. There should be about 20 videos, when I get around to editing them 👍
@@ultimatehandyman OMG!!! That will be awesome! Not just saying this for the sake of it, but theres loads of vids out there but UHM will kill it!
I used a 10mm drill bit as recommended and the hole seems too wide and the plug is loose?
It sounds like either the drill bit is bent slightly, or the chuck on your drill is not running true, which has created an oversized hole! If I were you, I would inject some grab adhesive into the holes before inserting the plugs, then let the adhesive cure before tightening the screw 👍
would you recommend these for a dot and dab 50mm insulated board
No, but this might help- th-cam.com/video/7DGGUbbbBZI/w-d-xo.html&pp
Did something happen to your old Corefix video? I just watched your old vid last week as a tutorial when I used thee fixings for the 1st time.
The old Corefix video, was “how to fit a shelf to a dot and dab wall using Corefix fixings” or something along those lines. I thought I’d do a dedicated video on the Corefix fixings, as I get a lot of questions about which plasterboard fixing to use, when really, they need a dot and dab fixing 👍
Thanks for the comment 👍
Hi there can you please recommend a roofer please roof leaks thank u
I’m afraid I don't know any roofers, the one I used to use, passed away a few years back!
Hi I I am sorry to disturb you again
after watching your videos in past years and know I asked got a roof leak roofers come go take my money but leaks again I’m a vulnerable person
Sorry, but I don’t know of any roofers.
Are you anywhere near to me (Darwen)?
If you are, I can ask around and might be able to get a recommendation.
I have seen these fixings before but can’t remember where. The finished product is a very nice kitchen. Is it yours or a customer’s?
The kitchen is in my girlfriends house (it was being constructed by her late father, when he passed away), I ended up fitting the kitchen and installing multi-panels in the three bathrooms (nightmare jobs) 👍
There are some more pictures here-
www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum1/viewtopic.php?t=106960
www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum1/viewtopic.php?t=107100
Thanks for the comment 👍
And how do you remove them when 'things" change?
Remove the item that they are fixing to the wall, re-insert the screw (but don’t tighten it fully), then use a claw hammer and piece of timber to protect the wall and lever them out using the claw hammer 👍
These are brilliant use them for rads all the time my advice would be too measure and re measure because u need too drill a big hole lol
Yeah, it’s a similar size to the hole needed for the Rigifix fixing (they are good too, but not as widely available).
Thanks for the comment 👍
Are the corefix any good for Aerated Blocks?
I have never tried them myself, but corefix say that 4 of their fixings can hold 75KG in aerated concrete 👍
@@ultimatehandyman 👍
Can I use them to put up a TV on the wall the wall is concrete wall
If the wall is solid concrete, you can just use normal wall plugs and screws. These are only needed when the wall is drylined (dot and dab). If it’s a concrete wall with plasterboard adhered to it, then these will be perfect 👍
Ive moved to new house built in the early 90s how can i tell if its dot and dab or battens?
You can normally tell by tapping the wall with your knuckle, if it’s hollow you can tell by the noise it makes when you tap. If it’s been dot and dabbed it won’t sound as hollow. You can normally tell by where the wall is in the house, as stud partition walls are normally internal walls only (never one of the external walls of the house with a window etc.)
How would you go about removing these fixings? Best way for getting them out the wall
These are really easy to remove, just remove the item that they are fixing to the wall, then put the screw back in, but only give it a few turns- so that the threads just bite into the plug. Then grab the head with a pair of pliers and pull straight and the whole thing will come right out 👍
@@ultimatehandyman thank you! And great channel. Keep up the good work.
Just curious - what made you choose corefix for those ikea picture frame shelves? It seems a bit excessive when a few red plugs or even plasterboard fixings would be stronger than the actual shelf!
I always use corefix on dot and dab walls. If the daughter stands on the shelf, it will break and the fixings will still be there, so I won’t get any grief from the girlfriend, saying I didn’t fit it correctly 😂
@@ultimatehandyman haha that’s fair!
I did wonder that myself. Strongest IKEA picture shelf ever 😂
Hello mate, hopefully you see this comment among all the others lol used these fittings to put up a tv bracket but I've found that some screws bite well and fully tighten but quite a few just spin in place and never get tight, why could this be? And how could I remedy it? Thanks in advance, its baffling me as i taped the length of the plug on the drill as to not go too far
The block behind the plasterboard- is it aerated concrete?
Perhaps your masonry drill bit is drilling a hole that is too large?
I’d pull the plug part out, inject a bit of grab adhesive and then reinsert the plug, then give it a couple of hours to cure. That should stop it rotating 👍
I would just put in toggles I think it's easy as I put up my kitchen units and are perfect
Sorry, I’m not familiar with those 🤔
Look great Chaz ... Did u fit a 60mm piece of timber to act as a stand off for Kitchen sockets , waste pipes 🤔😂
Did I see a sneaky look at your kitchen ..
Thanks, the kitchen designer specified the 50mm gap between the wall and the base units. I think it was to help with the services etc. The worktops were plenty wide enough, so it worked well. The kitchen was in a house which was part built by my girlfriend’s late father, so I ended up fitting the kitchen for free. Pics here- www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum1/viewtopic.php?t=107100
Obviously I’m not a kitchen fitter and a couple of things stumped me, but luckily there were a couple of joiners and a kitchen fitters working on nearby houses, who helped me out 👍
@@ultimatehandyman that's a lovely big kitchen , women luv Grey 🙄. ..and that 50mm gap is essential with pipes , sockets etc 💪
Corefix or rigifix?
Not a simple question, as there are pro’s and con’s to both.
For strength, I think the Rigifix are better, but for speed and ease of use the Corefix are better.
The Rigifix requires a slightly larger hole, the M6 version requires a 12mm diameter hole- 110mm deep. The M8 version requires a 16mm diameter hole that is 110mm deep. The corefix needs a 10mm diameter hole-100mm deep, regardless of whether you use the corefix 100 or corefix 120 👍
I'm struggline to understand how a steel core stops the plasterboard getting pushed inside.
The steel insert bridges the void between the plasterboard and the block work that would otherwise cave in towards the blocks if only a nylon plug was used. That's the theory, anyway.
👍
My Mentor Ultimate Handyman
QUICK-WITTED ULTIMATE HANDYMAN
Take care and enjoy your weekend
QUICK-WITTED ULTIMATE HANDYMAN
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 12:19
Thanks Nick
Great fixings, just be careful when knocking in the insert with a hammer as when you reach the end it is possible to knock the "lip" off the plug. I don't think it changes the performance of the fixing just looks a bit rough. Best to be careful at the end. I am using them to hold a 9u network cabinet to a dot and dab wall and it's very secure loaded up with equipment.
👍
🤘😎🤘
👍
Shit fixings for large radiators 10mm holes is too big
Tried these in thermalite blocks, complete and utter total rubbish. Got some Fisher UX plugs which are far superior.
😱
your safety standards have REALLY dropped lately my man, before you would have worn gloves for a job like this, NOT forgetting ear defenders, safety glasses AND a hi vis jacket, oh, AND a mask, what`s happened ............?
Thanks for the concern.
My safety standards have not dropped, you will see that I was wearing safety glasses during the kitchen install.
The shelves were being installed in my daughters bedroom, I was knelt on the bed with no footwear on, so retrieving anything at all was trying my patience!
@@ultimatehandyman according to the wife, i`m VERY good at trying people`s patience.....would you concur ?😁😁😁
Well, your comment made it on here. I have over 860 videos uploaded, sometimes when I switch the computer on and check the comments, I just want to pack the whole thing in. Some people, just have nothing better to do than criticise other people 😉
@@t5jerry Patience!? Works both ways, pal.
I've been married fer 15 years. You only get 7 fer manslaughter! - Les Dawson.
@@ultimatehandyman come on now Mr Uh, i`ve always had a larf and a joke wiv ya over the years...........