I have spies planting gremlins in everyone's van corresponding to my next video. :) Actually, I have noticed if I park my troubled van too close to my spare van the problems often seems to be like an airborne virus. :)
Now we're moving on to van number 3? What the hell was the fix for the first one? I almost fell asleep three times trying to figure out what's going on here what's what kind of diagnosis is this
Sorry, I do what I can and sometimes the story gets lost in editing while still making sense in my mind. I'll try to make a better one when I learn more about a/c systems in our vans.
Last one reminds me of a 8 wheeler tipper truck that turned up here with no A/C....... Put my gauges on: Zero pressure...... I expected a sheared line somewhere..... Those unions are not the strongest...... Turned out there was simply no compressor....and the previous owner had simply put on the shorter Poly-V-Belt for the Non-A/C Version of the truck! But it is simply criminal to leave hoses on A/C lines open to atmosphere....dust and humidity will destroy components.
This video just saved me from dying of heat on a trip to the desert! Thank you Got some strange readings though. My ac was blowing warm and with a strange wheezing noise. The refrigerant pressure was low (3.5 bar and didn't change with acceleration) but the gauge on the refrigerant bottle read it was full (low end of green). Wasn't sure what to do so I decided to add some refrigerant anyway. It took a bit but ended up blowing cold. The pressure bounced around a lot while driving though (4 -17 bar) which I'm assuming is normal?
Normal. Our vans seem*** to need more freon than minimum green-zone but too much is bad news. The changes in pressure while driving should relate to the compressor engaging. It will disengage when the van is cold enough, the condenser coil is too hot, evaporator coil too cold, or the computer thinks we need all available power at the drivetrain. Yours might be working fine now, but if it is not be aware of the power demand situation. For instance, a MAF or EGR problem causing low power from the van can result in the a/c cutting-off every time you accelerate or climb a little hill.
Someone else showed me that AP2500 recently and I don't trust it! The AP200M, AP200H and AP200T were not upgrades and only locked subscriptions to other vendors like Wal-Mart and Harbor-Freight adding layers of complication to returns and tech support. If Autel sends me a unit I'll try it out, but I've pitched their product solely because I like it for 4 years, sold over a thousand through my Amazon links and they won't return my emails. Maybe we need to get a petition together?
You have my signature on this petition 🙂 1000 units is probably nothing for Amazon but Autel should really appreciate the free advertising they get through your channel. I appreciate the unbiased reviews and have learned a lot from you. I am not a mechanic but thanks to your videos (and few others) I’ve tackled projects like water pump replacement that I couldn’t have done before. Thank you!
Got a quick question for you let me tell you what’s going on first my sprinter runs excellently goes all the way to third gear but will not go into fourth overdrive, but will do 60 in third gear which leads me to think that is not a tourque converter ,but a shift solenoid and filter change. What do you think, I trust to work is everything you told me worked thank you😊
With those symptoms, if it were here I would do a full trans service with new conductor plate and inspect the TCM under driver seat. If that connector is wet, start there and go to the trans service if no improvement from cleaning the oily connector. We have videos for both, search "Transmission" & "Wet" on our channel. Be sure you are ON OUR CHANNEL when searching the second one.
I don't think it is accessible at all without tearing the dash apart. A shop-vac on the drain line may be your best bet. Perhaps blowing air into the drain line will solve the trouble? If the condenser pan is full it will surely splash inside the van.
When I took out the cabin air filter, the fan inside the van blew much stronger. It seems The filter in place caused a formidable air flow restriction that we couldn’t handle. What should I do.
Leave the cabin air filter out. I often drive with a window open, no filter at all. :) The engine air filter is VERY important but the cabin air filter we can do without.
So, my compressor is working. Pressure is at 14 ish. Fan kicks in at 20. Problem is my outlet temp is all over the place. 10-17C. Pressure changes a lot also, from 7-20. Seems the higher the pressure the warmer the temp for some reason.
I had a leak in the '06 Sprinter AC condenser and replaced the condenser. Then remembering that I had not positioned the outside air temp sensor; I pulled the hood release and the hood is too tight at the latch and will not open. Had the daughter stand at the front edge of the hood and push down while I pulled the hood release and still not able to get the hood open. What is your advise on opening the hood; I don't want to cut a hole in the hood to get it to open. Thanks FVM Vincent Chicago
@@FloridaVanMan Well, got the daughter married last Thursday and Friday so back to work on the van hood. I tried with long screw driver and hardened metal long rod and I am moving the secondary lock lever but not the adjustable center lock male part to get the initial release. Got any more detailed instructions on this hood release. I have not tried my 8' 2 X 6 with a thick cushion at the hood center front edge with two men and someone working the hood release from drivers seat.? I just do not want to start drilling and saber saw cutting at this time. Thanks Vincent
@@vincentrolfe1384 There are a few good ideas here: sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads%2F17545%2F&fbclid=IwY2xjawEX0VlleHRuA2FlbQIxMAABHd9Drl8miWyipUn_2PgyBY_RCoGdxiYNKTBUqeksAQIu0SN-kdYk_G08wQ_aem_DqJcVXsqj5R8sgcjmDFEXg
hi great video thank you ,my ac works fine on my swfl van but seems to diminish temp wise after 30-45 mins and the condensor fan never kicks on ,i unpluged the temp sensor on the thermostat and it came straight on just to test fan works ,but ac does not seem to kick it on ,what controls this ?should i be worried ? itsw superhot down here so would have thought this is important ,gas pressure was slightly over mid normal on one of those gas refil bottle guages ,any ideas, pressure sensor 2.1 to 2.3v refrig pressure was the only one that was a bit low at idle 12 to 15bar , maybe top up the gas a bit?? thanks for any help
Proper advice would be telling you to take it to a qualified shop, but I'll also tell you what I would do at home and why. I'd add more freon. I've been told we should aim for the center of the green bar and more freon does not make colder air conditioning. BUT I've found the compressor doesn't always come on reliably until I fill a little past the center of the green zone.
3.9 v rear pin pressure sensor is this mean control module needs repaur? Or can i posibley find another source to send 5 v to switch ? Appriciate what you do
Completely off topic… I’m in southeast GA ((Waycross) I’ve got a 2006 freightliner 2500 hc with 5 lug rims. Trying to find a spare. Finding 6 lug all over the place lol. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
What can be trouble shot when the control unit appears to be working, I'm getting 5 volts at the drier, 5bar, pressure but am not getting 12v at the compressor on the blue wire? Thanks!
@@FloridaVanMan Live data shows the AC button on the controller works as well as the temp dial. It also is confirming that the compressor is not running.
Same issue goes to mine. Control shows ac button and temp dial works. Reading 7bar on refrigerant and 1.3v on pressure sensor. Checked 5v on the first pin. But not 12v on the blue wire that goes to the compressor so clutch does not engage. Any progress troubleshooting on your end?
I ended up ordering and installing a new temp control unit and the AC started working immediately. I didn't feel like trying to troubleshoot and re-solder pins so I went this route. I wish i had purchased the new one 2 years ago! @@keithtseng9110
No, the kit does not include an evaporator as that is not a common failure part with our vans, thankfully. If you need to replace the evaporator you will need to take the dash apart.
You can tap on the little wrench icon or the one below it on the right side of the screen and change the temperature type (C/F). It's only temporary, you have to do it each time you fire up the app, unfortunately.
Scanned my van after watching this. Getting compressor clutch short circuit to ground error. Scanner shows compressor is off as does the warm air. It does work but comes and goes. What should I test next?
Same as turning it on, top button in the right side round area. The red light above should correspond to the a/c being on or off. We've seen several vans with the problematic dash controls bypassed so the a/c is always on or on a separate switch.
Please advise I brought a Mercedes sprinter Van 2006 model without the front AC fitted The guy I brought it from had a new compressor, condenser and fans So I paid my mechanic to install it Cost me $2500 to fit it. It worked for 3 weeks and stopped. Just the fan works no cold air, plenty of gas in system I have taken it to 3 places to fix it that has cost me $2500 plus without success . Including changing the thermostat for no reason as it worked. They get it running for a day then it cuts out a day later Can I bypass the thermostat Can I hard wire the compressor and leave my fan on full speed as it’s very weak anyway and needs to be on full speed Is this safe I’m at my wits end and just need cold air or my wife will kill me for buying a dud AC in a hot Ozzy summer ? Please help Thx 🙏🏼 Mike
Sounds like the control panel has the common intermittent issue. Modulerepairpro.com can fix it but you can likely find a replacement more locally. There are some videos showing what area goes bad so you can fix it if you are handy with a solder iron.
You are not required to watch them all. I don't watch yours! LOL Jokes aside, I hope you find our shorter videos more agreeable. I do what I can to make them informative AND amusing. They make a great reference collection but I need to drive home an audience to continue making them. Would you consider becoming a member of my support group? patreon.com/Florida_Van_Man?Link&
I swear every time you put out a new vid, it just happens to be about the latest problem with my van 🤟
I have spies planting gremlins in everyone's van corresponding to my next video. :)
Actually, I have noticed if I park my troubled van too close to my spare van the problems often seems to be like an airborne virus. :)
Brilliant video! Detailed diagnosis and explanation, thanks for your time and patience it's much appreciated.
Oh this is super helpful. I'm gonna try and diagnose my AC today. It quit working on my way home from your Halloween thing last fall :/
Now we're moving on to van number 3? What the hell was the fix for the first one? I almost fell asleep three times trying to figure out what's going on here what's what kind of diagnosis is this
Sorry, I do what I can and sometimes the story gets lost in editing while still making sense in my mind. I'll try to make a better one when I learn more about a/c systems in our vans.
Thank you!!! I'm in Florida and yes it's time and no mines not working.
Great video on the AC especially with the Autel AP 200.
Last one reminds me of a 8 wheeler tipper truck that turned up here with no A/C....... Put my gauges on: Zero pressure...... I expected a sheared line somewhere..... Those unions are not the strongest...... Turned out there was simply no compressor....and the previous owner had simply put on the shorter Poly-V-Belt for the Non-A/C Version of the truck!
But it is simply criminal to leave hoses on A/C lines open to atmosphere....dust and humidity will destroy components.
This video just saved me from dying of heat on a trip to the desert! Thank you
Got some strange readings though. My ac was blowing warm and with a strange wheezing noise. The refrigerant pressure was low (3.5 bar and didn't change with acceleration) but the gauge on the refrigerant bottle read it was full (low end of green). Wasn't sure what to do so I decided to add some refrigerant anyway. It took a bit but ended up blowing cold. The pressure bounced around a lot while driving though (4 -17 bar) which I'm assuming is normal?
Normal. Our vans seem*** to need more freon than minimum green-zone but too much is bad news. The changes in pressure while driving should relate to the compressor engaging. It will disengage when the van is cold enough, the condenser coil is too hot, evaporator coil too cold, or the computer thinks we need all available power at the drivetrain. Yours might be working fine now, but if it is not be aware of the power demand situation. For instance, a MAF or EGR problem causing low power from the van can result in the a/c cutting-off every time you accelerate or climb a little hill.
Great video! Thank you. Inspired me to get the Autel scanner. Amazon is showing the APT 2500 as the upgraded 200. Recommendations?
Someone else showed me that AP2500 recently and I don't trust it! The AP200M, AP200H and AP200T were not upgrades and only locked subscriptions to other vendors like Wal-Mart and Harbor-Freight adding layers of complication to returns and tech support. If Autel sends me a unit I'll try it out, but I've pitched their product solely because I like it for 4 years, sold over a thousand through my Amazon links and they won't return my emails. Maybe we need to get a petition together?
You have my signature on this petition 🙂
1000 units is probably nothing for Amazon but Autel should really appreciate the free advertising they get through your channel. I appreciate the unbiased reviews and have learned a lot from you. I am not a mechanic but thanks to your videos (and few others) I’ve tackled projects like water pump replacement that I couldn’t have done before. Thank you!
Thanks!
Got a quick question for you let me tell you what’s going on first my sprinter runs excellently goes all the way to third gear but will not go into fourth overdrive, but will do 60 in third gear which leads me to think that is not a tourque converter ,but a shift solenoid and filter change. What do you think, I trust to work is everything you told me worked thank you😊
With those symptoms, if it were here I would do a full trans service with new conductor plate and inspect the TCM under driver seat. If that connector is wet, start there and go to the trans service if no improvement from cleaning the oily connector. We have videos for both, search "Transmission" & "Wet" on our channel. Be sure you are ON OUR CHANNEL when searching the second one.
is the evaporator condensation drain easy to access? Can it be accessed from above, or has to be below?
I don't think it is accessible at all without tearing the dash apart. A shop-vac on the drain line may be your best bet. Perhaps blowing air into the drain line will solve the trouble? If the condenser pan is full it will surely splash inside the van.
When I took out the cabin air filter, the fan inside the van blew much stronger. It seems The filter in place caused a formidable air flow restriction that we couldn’t handle. What should I do.
Leave the cabin air filter out. I often drive with a window open, no filter at all. :) The engine air filter is VERY important but the cabin air filter we can do without.
So, my compressor is working. Pressure is at 14 ish. Fan kicks in at 20.
Problem is my outlet temp is all over the place. 10-17C. Pressure changes a lot also, from 7-20. Seems the higher the pressure the warmer the temp for some reason.
Over my head. I'd guess at the expansion valve or possibly just over filled.
I had a leak in the '06 Sprinter AC condenser and replaced the condenser. Then remembering that I had not positioned the outside air temp sensor; I pulled the hood release and the hood is too tight at the latch and will not open. Had the daughter stand at the front edge of the hood and push down while I pulled the hood release and still not able to get the hood open.
What is your advise on opening the hood; I don't want to cut a hole in the hood to get it to open. Thanks FVM
Vincent Chicago
There is a thing to push from underneath the front edge of the hood. Need a long & strong screwdriver or metal stick* and bending the plastic trim.
@@FloridaVanMan Thanks, I will give it a try. Happy Days Vincent
@@FloridaVanMan Well, got the daughter married last Thursday and Friday so back to work on the van hood.
I tried with long screw driver and hardened metal long rod and I am moving the secondary lock lever but not the adjustable
center lock male part to get the initial release. Got any more detailed instructions on this hood release. I have not tried my
8' 2 X 6 with a thick cushion at the hood center front edge with two men and someone working the hood release from drivers
seat.? I just do not want to start drilling and saber saw cutting at this time.
Thanks Vincent
@@vincentrolfe1384 There are a few good ideas here: sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads%2F17545%2F&fbclid=IwY2xjawEX0VlleHRuA2FlbQIxMAABHd9Drl8miWyipUn_2PgyBY_RCoGdxiYNKTBUqeksAQIu0SN-kdYk_G08wQ_aem_DqJcVXsqj5R8sgcjmDFEXg
hi great video thank you ,my ac works fine on my swfl van but seems to diminish temp wise after 30-45 mins and the condensor fan never kicks on ,i unpluged the temp sensor on the thermostat and it came straight on just to test fan works ,but ac does not seem to kick it on ,what controls this ?should i be worried ? itsw superhot down here so would have thought this is important ,gas pressure was slightly over mid normal on one of those gas refil bottle guages ,any ideas, pressure sensor 2.1 to 2.3v refrig pressure was the only one that was a bit low at idle 12 to 15bar , maybe top up the gas a bit?? thanks for any help
Proper advice would be telling you to take it to a qualified shop, but I'll also tell you what I would do at home and why. I'd add more freon. I've been told we should aim for the center of the green bar and more freon does not make colder air conditioning. BUT I've found the compressor doesn't always come on reliably until I fill a little past the center of the green zone.
3.9 v rear pin pressure sensor is this mean control module needs repaur? Or can i posibley find another source to send 5 v to switch ? Appriciate what you do
Find the problem. Don't simply bring voltage to the circuit when you don't know why it is low.
Buen día donde puedo conseguir el conteo del aire acondicionado
Si tu lo tienes de uso me lo puedes vender?
if my mercedes sprinter doesnt have AC option on it ,could it be mounted an aftermarket kit? is this option even fesable?
There are generic add-on a/c units but I don't think your wire harness will have everything to support factory a/c installed into your non-a/c van.
Hello, I have a maintenance job in repairing Mercedes buses 519/412/416. I want a computer scan device. What do you advise?
I use the AP200 most often. We have links for the tool and video to help set it up at floridavanman.com/links/
Completely off topic…
I’m in southeast GA ((Waycross)
I’ve got a 2006 freightliner 2500 hc with 5 lug rims. Trying to find a spare. Finding 6 lug all over the place lol. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
I have 10 or 12 here with junk tires. Join our membership then come on down and get one for $50.
What can be trouble shot when the control unit appears to be working, I'm getting 5 volts at the drier, 5bar, pressure but am not getting 12v at the compressor on the blue wire? Thanks!
Does the live data in your code reader show the button response?
@@FloridaVanMan Live data shows the AC button on the controller works as well as the temp dial. It also is confirming that the compressor is not running.
Same issue goes to mine. Control shows ac button and temp dial works. Reading 7bar on refrigerant and 1.3v on pressure sensor. Checked 5v on the first pin. But not 12v on the blue wire that goes to the compressor so clutch does not engage. Any progress troubleshooting on your end?
I ended up ordering and installing a new temp control unit and the AC started working immediately. I didn't feel like trying to troubleshoot and re-solder pins so I went this route. I wish i had purchased the new one 2 years ago! @@keithtseng9110
Q- If I get the over kill overhaul kit do I need to tear apart the dash to take the evaporator out ?
No, the kit does not include an evaporator as that is not a common failure part with our vans, thankfully. If you need to replace the evaporator you will need to take the dash apart.
So do you travel and work on sprinters, 2.7.
Travel to where? I do make house calls but the goal is usually fix it well enough to drive it back to Santa's workshop where more can be done.
Can you change values in the app for psi and temperature Fahrenheit?
You can tap on the little wrench icon or the one below it on the right side of the screen and change the temperature type (C/F). It's only temporary, you have to do it each time you fire up the app, unfortunately.
@@wanderingzythophile9083 oh that’s unfortunate with all the technology in there but it most likely doesn’t have memory
@@daveydave9884 Well, I would expect the phone app could be programmed to retain those settings, but it simply isn't a feature.
Scanned my van after watching this. Getting compressor clutch short circuit to ground error. Scanner shows compressor is off as does the warm air. It does work but comes and goes. What should I test next?
How do you turn it off
Same as turning it on, top button in the right side round area. The red light above should correspond to the a/c being on or off. We've seen several vans with the problematic dash controls bypassed so the a/c is always on or on a separate switch.
Shame on you butter cup being so damned cute
Please advise
I brought a Mercedes sprinter Van 2006 model without the front AC fitted
The guy I brought it from had a new compressor, condenser and fans
So I paid my mechanic to install it
Cost me $2500 to fit it. It worked for 3 weeks and stopped. Just the fan works no cold air, plenty of gas in system
I have taken it to 3 places to fix it that has cost me $2500 plus without success
. Including changing the thermostat for no reason as it worked. They get it running for a day then it cuts out a day later
Can I bypass the thermostat
Can I hard wire the compressor and leave my fan on full speed as it’s very weak anyway and needs to be on full speed
Is this safe
I’m at my wits end and just need cold air or my wife will kill me for buying a dud AC in a hot Ozzy summer ?
Please help
Thx 🙏🏼 Mike
Sounds like the control panel has the common intermittent issue. Modulerepairpro.com can fix it but you can likely find a replacement more locally. There are some videos showing what area goes bad so you can fix it if you are handy with a solder iron.
Put your dog down and less talky talky
You are not required to watch them all. I don't watch yours! LOL Jokes aside, I hope you find our shorter videos more agreeable. I do what I can to make them informative AND amusing. They make a great reference collection but I need to drive home an audience to continue making them. Would you consider becoming a member of my support group? patreon.com/Florida_Van_Man?Link&
Thanks!