Short vid on my bike, when the bike gets hot it stalls whilst idling so I'm playing with the TPS angle and removing the LAMS bracket for 100% throttle throw.
I have the same problem. The motorcycle slows down and stalls in hot weather at high rpm. In normal or cold weather, everything is fine. Motorcycle 650GT, 2015 release, carburetor. Thanks to the author of the video! I will try to change the voltage regulator relay. I read on the forums from many people that these motorcycles often have weak voltage regulators that cause many different problems in motorcycle systems.
For 2014 gv 250 efi, gt 250 r efi models tps adj must be 1.1v and 1.15v. in close possition, 4.55v i just repaired my gv 250. With the low rpm it had a misfire. I cleaned Continental selonoid valf, i cleaned butterfly necks and now bike is perfect. Gv 650 is same. Close possition 1.15v- open position 5.6v tps volt
Anybody discover this in 2019? I did, thanks. An important issue and possible problem management to be thought of today, not just for the bike in the video. Bikes gets hot if we do not use engine oil that could dissipate heat effectively, and if the plastic holder quality of sensors or things is not up to mark, it is going to effect and damage the sensor. Excessive heat could also effect metals like coils and solenoid. At the end we are going to be left with a “mystery problem”. Conclusion : (1) Heat Management is serious management, (2) Plastic should not just be plastics. Question : Are there anything like a small washer that we could put between metal body and plastic casing of parts as to avoid heat being dissipate into the plastic casing and the parts inside it? Leather washer? Cork washer? Kevlar washer? Hmmmmm, the thing that they glued to underneath a space shuttle as heat shield would be suitable I guess. Now, where do I find a space shuttle?
Thanks for comment mate I couldn't agree more I don't have the bike anymore but yes the overheating was a huge issue under further investigation the front could was also cooked as soon as replace the coil all problems went away no more stalling but the heat was still there tightening of the throttle cable also helped it from notstalling as it kept the revs just above 1000 rpm, great little run around bike but I really wouldn't spend any money on it to be
I own this bike and it is my first bike (I am an L plater). It's sitting at 8300km and the motorcycle has started stalling like you described, I got the bike with 1800km on it and I've tried learning doing the servicing myself. So far I've done its oil and filter change, regularly cleaned/lubed the chain, cleaned out the air filterand lubricated whatever needs to as mentioned in the manual. I've yet to adjust my clutch cable but I think I will need to do that now because it feels very loose and I thought that was the reason for why it would stall at the traffic light sometimes, also, shifting between 1st, neutral and 2nd feels really stiff. Is the problem because of my clutch cable? If I re-adjust the clutch cable and play around with the TPS will this fix the stalling issues?
Adjusting the TPS will make your bike rev higher on idle, yes adjusting clutch will help with better changing of gears but the bike is a dog from the factory, my bike had other issues like fueling and a bad coil adjusting the TPS was a band aid solution these are good bikes to gain experience and skills but don't waste your money on them
Paul M Thanks a lot. And good to know about this bike. I was planning to do a few things to it to make it more fun for myself but you’re about the 4th person who’s said to me that spending money on this bike just wouldn’t be worth it. I guess any money that’s going into it is to keep it mechanically sound and when I get off my Ls I’ll just get another bike? Also, is it better to adjust the clutch from your hand side or the engine side?
@@FPPofficial , It is believed that these Korean motorcycles are superior to Japanese and Western competitors in terms of price-performance ratio. Why do you think that you should not spend your money on them?
did you mean the throttle restrictor plate? if you actually shave it down with a file or angle grinder, you actually able to suck more air therefore more power. and would be able to achieve its top speed of 201kmh
Is there anyway u can post a vid of how ur vacuum lines are all ran? I got one over the weekend and someone had been in and unhooked everything. Thanks in advance!
Thanks for the comment mate, I don't have the bike as I wrote it off back in 2019 the real culprits are the regulator and it connector due to their position do not get a lot of air and it gets so hot that it melts the connect and can cause a fire as well you can cook a steak on it that's is important if you want your bike to charge the battery from the stator and the other is ignition coil pack at the front the plastic insulator dries up and crumbles causing it to short/earth with the chassis
Just found out, that this might be due to the ignition coil. Mine does the same and blew two spark plugs in the past month. Once I replaced it, I will let you guys know over here. (I have poor idling, stalling, headlights dim when revs go up and the battery never charged while the magneto and rectifier were in spec)
I finally found out the issues isn't so much the TPS although it did temporary fix the stalling issue but the real culprit for my situation was the shitty Voltage regulator (VR) which converts the AC volt from the stator to DC volt to charge the battery which drained the battery which in turn kills the EFI from working. just grab a voltmeter put it on the battery turn on motorcycle, accelerate if the voltage goes up then you have another issue, if no voltage or voltage goes down then it's the voltage regulator or stator or both, also excessive heat from the VR it also an indication of VR failure Hope this info helps Goodluck!
Also check your ignition coils too in the heat the coils expand which cause it to short out. I replace the one at the front which sorted out all my problems
I finally found out the issues isn't so much the TPS although it did temporary fix the stalling issue but the real culprit for my situation was the shitty Voltage regulator (VR) which converts the AC volt from the stator to DC volt to charge the battery which drained the battery which in turn kills the EFI from working. just grab a voltmeter put it on the battery turn on motorcycle, accelerate if the voltage goes up then you have another issue, if no voltage or voltage goes down then it's the voltage regulator or stator or both, also excessive heat from the VR it also an indication of VR failure Hope this info helps Goodluck!
Thanks for the reply. Not sure if my problem is same. My bike idles at little less than 1500 rpm. Checked the voltage at battery terminal and it shows 13.8V and goes upto 14.5V at higher RPM. After riding it for say 20km or so and when i stop my bike at the lights or toll or some place, the idle rpm drops to 1000 & below and the engine switches off. Then I turn off and on the kill switch(red color button on right) and press the ignition and bikes turns on immediately with little less 1500 rpm. Again the same story continues. The temp reading shows on display is 3 to 4 bars which is quite normal i think. My bike is more than 3 years old. This problem i am facing since last 2 years. I took it to service center and they checked. but according to them there is no problem as and when they take for test ride they dont face any. Also, i took them once as pillion in heavy traffic (4-5 bar temp) and on highways(3-4 bar temp) but the problem did not come up. Not sure what would be the problem. Could you help me out?? Thanks :)
Oh thats lot of things to check. To start with... 1. Bad Fuel: No option but to trust the fuel station. Tried all the major fuel suppliers in the city. :( 2. Spark Plugs: If spark plugs are the culprits, then should't the initial cold start be a problem too?? And here the service center guy would love to change the parts even if there is no problem in it. :) 3. Coils: You mean ignition coil? need to check that along with etcs & etcs :( :( If there is a problem with TPS, will it show uneven idle rpm after cold start or will it wait for the engine to get hot?
I have the same problem. The motorcycle slows down and stalls in hot weather at high rpm. In normal or cold weather, everything is fine. Motorcycle 650GT, 2015 release, carburetor. Thanks to the author of the video! I will try to change the voltage regulator relay.
I read on the forums from many people that these motorcycles often have weak voltage regulators that cause many different problems in motorcycle systems.
For 2014 gv 250 efi, gt 250 r efi models tps adj must be 1.1v and 1.15v. in close possition, 4.55v i just repaired my gv 250. With the low rpm it had a misfire. I cleaned Continental selonoid valf, i cleaned butterfly necks and now bike is perfect. Gv 650 is same. Close possition 1.15v- open position 5.6v tps volt
Anybody discover this in 2019? I did, thanks.
An important issue and possible problem management to be thought of today, not just for the bike in the video. Bikes gets hot if we do not use engine oil that could dissipate heat effectively, and if the plastic holder quality of sensors or things is not up to mark, it is going to effect and damage the sensor. Excessive heat could also effect metals like coils and solenoid. At the end we are going to be left with a “mystery problem”.
Conclusion : (1) Heat Management is serious management, (2) Plastic should not just be plastics.
Question : Are there anything like a small washer that we could put between metal body and plastic casing of parts as to avoid heat being dissipate into the plastic casing and the parts inside it? Leather washer? Cork washer? Kevlar washer? Hmmmmm, the thing that they glued to underneath a space shuttle as heat shield would be suitable I guess. Now, where do I find a space shuttle?
Thanks for comment mate I couldn't agree more I don't have the bike anymore but yes the overheating was a huge issue under further investigation the front could was also cooked as soon as replace the coil all problems went away no more stalling but the heat was still there tightening of the throttle cable also helped it from notstalling as it kept the revs just above 1000 rpm, great little run around bike but I really wouldn't spend any money on it to be
I own this bike and it is my first bike (I am an L plater). It's sitting at 8300km and the motorcycle has started stalling like you described, I got the bike with 1800km on it and I've tried learning doing the servicing myself. So far I've done its oil and filter change, regularly cleaned/lubed the chain, cleaned out the air filterand lubricated whatever needs to as mentioned in the manual.
I've yet to adjust my clutch cable but I think I will need to do that now because it feels very loose and I thought that was the reason for why it would stall at the traffic light sometimes, also, shifting between 1st, neutral and 2nd feels really stiff. Is the problem because of my clutch cable? If I re-adjust the clutch cable and play around with the TPS will this fix the stalling issues?
Adjusting the TPS will make your bike rev higher on idle, yes adjusting clutch will help with better changing of gears but the bike is a dog from the factory, my bike had other issues like fueling and a bad coil adjusting the TPS was a band aid solution these are good bikes to gain experience and skills but don't waste your money on them
Paul M Thanks a lot. And good to know about this bike. I was planning to do a few things to it to make it more fun for myself but you’re about the 4th person who’s said to me that spending money on this bike just wouldn’t be worth it. I guess any money that’s going into it is to keep it mechanically sound and when I get off my Ls I’ll just get another bike?
Also, is it better to adjust the clutch from your hand side or the engine side?
@@FPPofficial , It is believed that these Korean motorcycles are superior to Japanese and Western competitors in terms of price-performance ratio. Why do you think that you should not spend your money on them?
for a person who knows nothing about bike engine.. this looks like a nightmare!!
Hey man, have you been able to remove the LAMS bracket? I am wondering what the specs are afterward and if it is worth it.
did you mean the throttle restrictor plate? if you actually shave it down with a file or angle grinder, you actually able to suck more air therefore more power. and would be able to achieve its top speed of 201kmh
Is there anyway u can post a vid of how ur vacuum lines are all ran? I got one over the weekend and someone had been in and unhooked everything. Thanks in advance!
Hi mate thx for the comment unfortunately I don't have the bike anymore sry
Amigo tenho uma dessa gostaria de saber se sem ha placa ligada o painel pode acender?
I have gt650r 2015 and its same issues as soon as its gets hot sounds like one cilinder stop working rpms drops belove 1k and stals..
Thanks for the comment mate, I don't have the bike as I wrote it off back in 2019 the real culprits are the regulator and it connector due to their position do not get a lot of air and it gets so hot that it melts the connect and can cause a fire as well you can cook a steak on it that's is important if you want your bike to charge the battery from the stator and the other is ignition coil pack at the front the plastic insulator dries up and crumbles causing it to short/earth with the chassis
Just found out, that this might be due to the ignition coil. Mine does the same and blew two spark plugs in the past month. Once I replaced it, I will let you guys know over here. (I have poor idling, stalling, headlights dim when revs go up and the battery never charged while the magneto and rectifier were in spec)
What is an ideal regulation for TPS for GT 650?
Close 1.10v - open 5.6v
So that the F1 fault is... c14 fault ? On my gtr250 2010 😒
Hi I am from Denmark I have a same problem. Help me if you finde the promptem.thank you.
I finally found out the issues isn't so much the TPS although it did temporary fix the stalling issue but the real culprit for my situation was the shitty Voltage regulator (VR) which converts the AC volt from the stator to DC volt to charge the battery which drained the battery which in turn kills the EFI from working. just grab a voltmeter put it on the battery turn on motorcycle, accelerate if the voltage goes up then you have another issue, if no voltage or voltage goes down then it's the voltage regulator or stator or both, also excessive heat from the VR it also an indication of VR failure
Hope this info helps
Goodluck!
Hej Sergio, Også fra Danmark her,,, jeg har samme problem,, fik du løst dit ?
i jave the same stalling issues on my gv650 will try to check these and Voltage while driving thx.
Also check your ignition coils too in the heat the coils expand which cause it to short out. I replace the one at the front which sorted out all my problems
THX.I have one on spare. also thinking about balancing the carburators. TPS seem to be fine for me.
Hi
Hi. Did it work?
I finally found out the issues isn't so much the TPS although it did temporary fix the stalling issue but the real culprit for my situation was the shitty Voltage regulator (VR) which converts the AC volt from the stator to DC volt to charge the battery which drained the battery which in turn kills the EFI from working. just grab a voltmeter put it on the battery turn on motorcycle, accelerate if the voltage goes up then you have another issue, if no voltage or voltage goes down then it's the voltage regulator or stator or both, also excessive heat from the VR it also an indication of VR failure
Hope this info helps
Goodluck!
Thanks for the reply. Not sure if my problem is same.
My bike idles at little less than 1500 rpm. Checked the voltage at battery terminal and it shows 13.8V and goes upto 14.5V at higher RPM.
After riding it for say 20km or so and when i stop my bike at the lights or toll or some place, the idle rpm drops to 1000 & below and the engine switches off. Then I turn off and on the kill switch(red color button on right) and press the ignition and bikes turns on immediately with little less 1500 rpm. Again the same story continues. The temp reading shows on display is 3 to 4 bars which is quite normal i think.
My bike is more than 3 years old. This problem i am facing since last 2 years. I took it to service center and they checked. but according to them there is no problem as and when they take for test ride they dont face any. Also, i took them once as pillion in heavy traffic (4-5 bar temp) and on highways(3-4 bar temp) but the problem did not come up.
Not sure what would be the problem. Could you help me out??
Thanks :)
Can be a number of things bad fuel, spark plugs, coils, fuel injections over heating wires shorting out etc etc.
Oh thats lot of things to check. To start with...
1. Bad Fuel: No option but to trust the fuel station. Tried all the major fuel suppliers in the city. :(
2. Spark Plugs: If spark plugs are the culprits, then should't the initial cold start be a problem too?? And here the service center guy would love to change the parts even if there is no problem in it. :)
3. Coils: You mean ignition coil? need to check that along with etcs & etcs :( :(
If there is a problem with TPS, will it show uneven idle rpm after cold start or will it wait for the engine to get hot?
@@pramodlivz man i have it exactly as you mentioned after hot it idles too low to sustain itself any ideas? I have good voltage so...