Steve is a wealth of knowledge. I had no idea that he had a channel on TH-cam. This is great. I've been watching him on TV for years and now I'm binge watching his videos.
Instead of throwing away those old valves, you may want to keep them and sign them for merch or giveaways to subs as memorabilia. As the channel grows in popularity, folks will love having a token like that in their personal collection. Think about it. Cheers!
If you want to go fast throw the heads and intake away,, get American made alloy heads with all the good parts,, its cheaper than working on 40 year old junk. with alloy heads and modern combustion chambers you CAN run 11 1/2:1 compression
Your knowledge of everything automotive has always impressed me.I have been following you for ages (Hemi stuffed in to compact MoPar import) era. I could watch you for hours if that would ever happen. I would like to see more camera time with you. Thanks for good memories.
It is a very good tip yeah you could use power tools and zip it all part real quick like he said you'll end up calling up some threads or something that could have been prevented or if there's a little thing that's messed up taking it out by hand generally it's easier to fix. I worked at a high performance engine machine shop and it was one of the first things my boss told me yes we have power tools yes we have air tools but when we care customers engines down we take them apart by hand with hand tools because you never know tell me different people of touched and worked on them and that goes for blueprint motors we get customer spend that kind of money in a built engine a lot of them will have it sent to us and will tear it completely apart and go through it and just make sure doesn't hurt to spend how much he charged it's a piece of mind cuz we've had brand new engines come in where stuff was loose and if it wasn't checked would have ran and turn into a catastrophic failure had a block come in first and that all the connecting rod bolts were not tight guy must have put them in and went to the next step or got called away from it for a second and forgot to torque them down and that could have been bad really bad it would have been really worse cuz the customer saved up for like a year to get that engine. By far the best there was a rag in one of the cylinders I don't know how it got past the guy or whatever but that's the only reason when you start building an engine final assembly where I worked you don't get called away from it. There's no you have to stop and go take care of this or this or no you do that thing quotes done and when everything's laying there ready to go just to be assembled it doesn't take that long to put one together but just a minor distractions all it takes.
Much of my youth was spend between aviation , hot rods and engine building. In any of those domains I always had the hardest time convincing people that there were indeed reasons to use hand tools.
I worked at a high performance engine shop and when it came to dismantling engines new newer old didn't matter like Steve said he pull them apart by hand sometimes you'd feel bad threads or something wonky rather end up being a catastrophic failure or something along those lines you'll catch it. We did a lot of mopars at my shop that's what we are known for one of the best sounds in the world was listening to hemmi on the dyno
My old 426 hemi was given to me from the guy who owned the railler i drove for. it was a 1964, the reason he gave it to me was it had a broke block. a welder cut and made a peice to go into the hole and he welded it in,then i took to school and we did a head and block mach surface planing as well as pan base where repair was made. i ran it with a blower on alchol in a 1969 chevelle. for 3 sumers only changing valves and springs one time and just changing oil. Was told by a wise man. do not waste your motor doing stupid stuff and save it for the time you need it. meaning i never did idiot burn outs and burry the tach shifts. once we had it dialed it was set and not fooled with. looking back ya was tears loosing was excitement winning, best of all proves you can make some ones gift a life changer if you wish to try. it took me 3 years start to finish to hearthe motor start the firsttime as i onlybought a part as i got paid i was not a millionares daughter.
Changed the valve stem seals on my 318 by installing the rocker shaft back on the head minus the rockers and using a alternator bracket as a lever to compress the valve springs. Worked amazing
Steve, I just caught you in the Barrett-Jackson top 10 selling Mustangs from Austin, Tx video, where you provided excellent coverage, commentary and analysis as usual. Really enjoying this teardown series too. Thanks!🙏
Magnante, the man, the myth, the legend. Side note. There was a guy I knew named Gail, Gail was a car guy. He gave me a torque wrench many years ago after helping me at 16 with my 88 blazer. Still got that torque wrench. In its case. All metal, metal lock, metal engraved units
Love your stuff.. the legand of the " hemi" all us old guys know we'll. Loved the engine masters episode that showed the 440 made more power everywhere except 6000+ RPM..who would have guessed
Stuff a rag under the valve before you whack it and it will come apart. Or, use a valve spring compressor. It’s good practice and you need one for assembly anyway.
That's how we did it at the engine shop. Rag in the chamber on a flat table , whack the retainer with a hammer and old socket and you're done. Shouldn't take more than a minute for a head ,it's like whack a mole.
I usually put a rag in the combustion chamber if I'm disassembling valves this way, I actually have the correct tool for that it has a magnet to hold the keepers ins
440 Source heads are 2.14/1.81 valve size. I bought a set several years ago and did a mild clean up and a little work in the bowl, especially on the short side radius. They are better than stock out of the box and with just the minor work I did they are as good as Edlebrock E Street heads for much less money. They also have 80cc chambers. They have worked great on the 440 in my Roadrunner.
Love the videos man!!! I’m such a huge fan of your channel! But I personally find it cringy watching people use a socket and a hammer to remove valve keepers. I love my harbor freight mega C clamp with a side-cut socket welded to the screw end. Works wonders! I’m to stingy to buy a valve spring compressor
My dad made thing to boost to the rocker shaft holes and you can leverage the other piece down on to the valve springs and it took the weight off it to have keepers come out to release the lever . He held the valve at cylinder side to pull it out of head afterwards
HD spark plug cooling-loop heads. Notice the block is drilled to feed the passages around the plug and the gasket has to have matching holes as well. Takes tapered seat plugs instead of gasketed, too.
@@donberry5677 The ones in the video. They are HD motorhome heads with the water passage around the spark plug threads. The ones that I have (5 total) all use a GM style, non gasketed spark plug instead of the typical J-10 or RJ-12Y with a compression gasket. These heads are NOT the motorhome/industrial heads that have angled plugs and water pump bosses on the ends.
I remember a shop teacher in high school that was an Air National Guard mechanic, showed me a way to break loose head bolts with a short handled wrench, by first tightening, then loosening the bolts. The 67 915 heads were 440 only and to match the new ports the 67 440 got a new taller than 66 intake manifold. In 68 the 383 got the 906 heads with the same newer ports and both the 2 barrel and 4 barrel intakes were taller than 67 383 intake manifolds. The ports were the same size, but the inside shape of the ports were improved over the older ones and the taller intake manifolds were to better match the improve flow. The Thermoquad intake manifolds flowed better and more evenly, even with a square flange carb adapter.
Gas is 3.55 in S Florida, but I'm not paying for gas or accomodations last 3 weeks, or 3 more weeks, working at a condo w a spare bedroom, zero commute lol
Great stuff showing, comparing and explaining the "normal" head to the Hemi head. We just bought a 2022 Ram 1500 with the 5.7 Hemi last Saturday and I made my wife watch that part of the clip so she could see the difference.
You are right about the combustion chamber size but the compression ratio depends on the compression height of the pistons and most of the 70's stuff were really low meaning more like 7.8 all the way down to 7.4 to 1 compression ratios.
It's not a good idea to reuse head bolts anyway, most are TTY (Torque To Yield) type, meaning they stretch to increase hold and clamping pressure to secure the head to the block securely. Head studs are ideal for any additional power over stock, including boosting.
You should include the auction video on the Remcharger list ! Keep it up Steve! Good content here, especially all those historical tips you give us within all those vids !
Exactly what I thought. If the engine has been standing for years with the valve on that cylinder open it can happen. Rarely an inlet valve but often an exhaust; if the guide is worn then carbon, crud etc. can grow solid so the valve is stuck. I've seen that quite a few times.
You are lucky the valve didn't crash into the piston. I think some 440 head castings had advantages over others because a few had quench chambers, but most didn't. Also, chamber volume varied. However, since I'm not a Mopar guy, I really don't know that much about the details. 7:45 Yes, but most rebuilders just press in hard seats when rebuilding the earlier heads. 9:55 Plus the combustion chamber shape is much better on modern heads.
Too bad you don't have old LA Darts 440/hemi stage V engine...that thing was awesome stuff back in the day...best of luck in that 62.. it will be awesome 👌
no ring groove is prety common for the older chrysler blocks that had oil changed in them before i go to the next video i'm gonna predict the crank is as perfect as a used one can be and you could get by with a polish and new bearings
Man Steve I wish I had your help right now. I have a '79 Dodge D150 I have rebuilt, except the wiring. The wiring has never been chopped into. But got a problem. Went to fire it up for the 1st time and accessory stuff don't turn on. No gauges and no radio. All lights t/s and all work. Checked fuses and yep the ones that don't come on no light test light and fuses are good. Almost like power is not getting to the circut board.
I'd guess a bad fusable link. They are in a splayed harness, on the inner fender, behind the battery. Fairly common problem. Be sure to replace with the correct guage.
@@cecilkoselke7878 the harness behind the battery goes the head lights, markers and horn. Not to sure which fuseable your mentioning. There are fuseables going to the starter relay.
I agree that with Detroit Iron any order is fine, but I recently learned that some Honda and other imported engines with aluminum heads care about order of loosening and removal of head bolts. Strange, huh?
Can I share this trivia with you? In the mid 60s I worked at the service dept of a Chev dealer. A 64 Chev Nova on the lube rack, we noted it had a Ford 4 on the floor 4 speed stick shift transmission, funny? Ford had the patent on a synchronized 1st gear. The stick shift transmission had a Chev part number and a Ford part number on it, too. Fomoco this is too funny, from factory no less.
Steve is a national treasure regarding MOPAR!
Steve is a wealth of knowledge. I had no idea that he had a channel on TH-cam. This is great. I've been watching him on TV for years and now I'm binge watching his videos.
Instead of throwing away those old valves, you may want to keep them and sign them for merch or giveaways to subs as memorabilia. As the channel grows in popularity, folks will love having a token like that in their personal collection. Think about it. Cheers!
I second this!!❤
Might want to look into the weak oil pump on that 426 lol
If you want to go fast throw the heads and intake away,, get American made alloy heads with all the good parts,, its cheaper than working on 40 year old junk. with alloy heads and modern combustion chambers you CAN run 11 1/2:1 compression
Steve, You been doing this for years... I still can hear youthfull excitment in your voice in your car vids Keep up the good work!!!
This man remembers a massive amount of stuff about cars. Wish I could do that.
spark plugs in the center of the valve covers always look the best for some reason
Love that name 'R.E.M. Charger' So excited to see this build!
Your knowledge of everything automotive has always impressed me.I have been following you for ages (Hemi stuffed in to compact MoPar import) era. I could watch you for hours if that would ever happen. I would like to see more camera time with you. Thanks for good memories.
Thank you, as always. Agree on the hand tools vs power. Even when I do use power/air - generally it starts and ends with hand tools for feel.
It is a very good tip yeah you could use power tools and zip it all part real quick like he said you'll end up calling up some threads or something that could have been prevented or if there's a little thing that's messed up taking it out by hand generally it's easier to fix. I worked at a high performance engine machine shop and it was one of the first things my boss told me yes we have power tools yes we have air tools but when we care customers engines down we take them apart by hand with hand tools because you never know tell me different people of touched and worked on them and that goes for blueprint motors we get customer spend that kind of money in a built engine a lot of them will have it sent to us and will tear it completely apart and go through it and just make sure doesn't hurt to spend how much he charged it's a piece of mind cuz we've had brand new engines come in where stuff was loose and if it wasn't checked would have ran and turn into a catastrophic failure had a block come in first and that all the connecting rod bolts were not tight guy must have put them in and went to the next step or got called away from it for a second and forgot to torque them down and that could have been bad really bad it would have been really worse cuz the customer saved up for like a year to get that engine. By far the best there was a rag in one of the cylinders I don't know how it got past the guy or whatever but that's the only reason when you start building an engine final assembly where I worked you don't get called away from it. There's no you have to stop and go take care of this or this or no you do that thing quotes done and when everything's laying there ready to go just to be assembled it doesn't take that long to put one together but just a minor distractions all it takes.
Right on man. I love my impact for different reasons than pulling threads out of a block. The process is much more "Zen" like. Good for the soul.
Much of my youth was spend between aviation , hot rods and engine building. In any of those domains I always had the hardest time convincing people that there were indeed reasons to use hand tools.
Always wanted to see how to rebulild a V8... greetings from Germany!
Edit: explanations included 😁
I worked at a high performance engine shop and when it came to dismantling engines new newer old didn't matter like Steve said he pull them apart by hand sometimes you'd feel bad threads or something wonky rather end up being a catastrophic failure or something along those lines you'll catch it. We did a lot of mopars at my shop that's what we are known for one of the best sounds in the world was listening to hemmi on the dyno
Just discovered your channel. Love this content. Impressive knowledge! 🙌🏾
My old 426 hemi was given to me from the guy who owned the railler i drove for. it was a 1964, the reason he gave it to me was it had a broke block. a welder cut and made a peice to go into the hole and he welded it in,then i took to school and we did a head and block mach surface planing as well as pan base where repair was made. i ran it with a blower on alchol in a 1969 chevelle. for 3 sumers only changing valves and springs one time and just changing oil. Was told by a wise man. do not waste your motor doing stupid stuff and save it for the time you need it. meaning i never did idiot burn outs and burry the tach shifts. once we had it dialed it was set and not fooled with. looking back ya was tears loosing was excitement winning, best of all proves you can make some ones gift a life changer if you wish to try. it took me 3 years start to finish to hearthe motor start the firsttime as i onlybought a part as i got paid i was not a millionares daughter.
Also the valves on the hemi are leaning towards the port so the air doesn't have to go around as much of a curve entering the cylinder!
Changed the valve stem seals on my 318 by installing the rocker shaft back on the head minus the rockers and using a alternator bracket as a lever to compress the valve springs. Worked amazing
I just used an open end wrench and a quick grip clamp to compress the spring
Steve, I just caught you in the Barrett-Jackson top 10 selling Mustangs from Austin, Tx video, where you provided excellent coverage, commentary and analysis as usual. Really enjoying this teardown series too. Thanks!🙏
Thanks, Steve. 👍
Every time I see your show I get educated. thank you Steve
You got to love the true HEMI head!!
Magnante, the man, the myth, the legend.
Side note.
There was a guy I knew named Gail, Gail was a car guy. He gave me a torque wrench many years ago after helping me at 16 with my 88 blazer. Still got that torque wrench. In its case. All metal, metal lock, metal engraved units
Love your stuff.. the legand of the " hemi" all us old guys know we'll.
Loved the engine masters episode that showed the 440 made more power everywhere except 6000+ RPM..who would have guessed
I like how you use milk crates as a seat they work perfect.😎👍
Stuff a rag under the valve before you whack it and it will come apart. Or, use a valve spring compressor. It’s good practice and you need one for assembly anyway.
That's how we did it at the engine shop.
Rag in the chamber on a flat table , whack the retainer with a hammer and old socket and you're done.
Shouldn't take more than a minute for a head ,it's like whack a mole.
I thought everyone knew the rag trick.
I usually put a rag in the combustion chamber if I'm disassembling valves this way, I actually have the correct tool for that it has a magnet to hold the keepers ins
440 Source heads are 2.14/1.81 valve size. I bought a set several years ago and did a mild clean up and a little work in the bowl, especially on the short side radius. They are better than stock out of the box and with just the minor work I did they are as good as Edlebrock E Street heads for much less money. They also have 80cc chambers. They have worked great on the 440 in my Roadrunner.
Love the videos man!!! I’m such a huge fan of your channel! But I personally find it cringy watching people use a socket and a hammer to remove valve keepers. I love my harbor freight mega C clamp with a side-cut socket welded to the screw end. Works wonders! I’m to stingy to buy a valve spring compressor
My dad made thing to boost to the rocker shaft holes and you can leverage the other piece down on to the valve springs and it took the weight off it to have keepers come out to release the lever . He held the valve at cylinder side to pull it out of head afterwards
That 452 casting head can have either the RV cooling holes, and small plug ports, or no cooling holes, and uses the larger plugs.
HD spark plug cooling-loop heads. Notice the block is drilled to feed the passages around the plug and the gasket has to have matching holes as well. Takes tapered seat plugs instead of gasketed, too.
What wedge head are you referring too that uses a “Tapered Seat” spark plug.?
@@donberry5677 The ones in the video. They are HD motorhome heads with the water passage around the spark plug threads. The ones that I have (5 total) all use a GM style, non gasketed spark plug instead of the typical J-10 or RJ-12Y with a compression gasket. These heads are NOT the motorhome/industrial heads that have angled plugs and water pump bosses on the ends.
These videos are great Steve. Keep in up!
looks like a rusted and stuck open valve to me but I will wait and see if you take it apart, if not then it rusted open while sitting.
It's stuck. I've broken many valve springs, and when they break the coils wrap around each other. His looked fine.
We will see this together and vibrating … get well soon buddy.
Steve, another great video.
Thank you for making them!
Thanks for the videos!!
Cool thing, I never realized what a huge difference in the head size between the 2.
Great episode Steve!! Thanks
If You can always afford "new valves", you can afford a valve spring compressor !
Great video! You’re Being lucky so far doesn’t look too bad in there! Looking forward to seeing the next video!👌😎👍
I remember a shop teacher in high school that was an Air National Guard mechanic, showed me a way to break loose head bolts with a short handled wrench, by first tightening, then loosening the bolts. The 67 915 heads were 440 only and to match the new ports the 67 440 got a new taller than 66 intake manifold. In 68 the 383 got the 906 heads with the same newer ports and both the 2 barrel and 4 barrel intakes were taller than 67 383 intake manifolds. The ports were the same size, but the inside shape of the ports were improved over the older ones and the taller intake manifolds were to better match the improve flow. The Thermoquad intake manifolds flowed better and more evenly, even with a square flange carb adapter.
The Hemi combustion chamber got credited with increasing the power but most of it came from the large intake and exhaust ports and larger valves.
Gas is 3.55 in S Florida, but I'm not paying for gas or accomodations last 3 weeks, or 3 more weeks, working at a condo w a spare bedroom, zero commute lol
Here in drive by shooting hop hop Bronx is $4.65 regular
Thanks for the automotive history lesson 👋👍
Incredible amount of information! Great presentation, thank you!!
Great video. You’re an exceptional teacher. Very cool. Thanks.
9:55 I have the exact same Buick hub cap on my office wall!
Rem Charger is going to be a blast to see completed-I'll be here.
The 452 heads had 2.08/1.74 valves.
Liked your comparison of the wedge/hemi heads.
Great video
Thank God for cats!!! What would we do without those yellow buckets!!! 😹😻🙀😺
Good stuff Steve. Nice weather lately gets us back out in the garage! 🔧
Great video Steve!
cool, cool, cool, still looking pretty good
Always packed with great info
I wish someone would do a dyno test between shrouded like the 413 vs unshrouded.
i had to laugh when Steve was disassembling the valve, because that is how i did mine in my first rebuild of a 1960 ford 223 6 cyl. when i was 14...
Great stuff showing, comparing and explaining the "normal" head to the Hemi head. We just bought a 2022 Ram 1500 with the 5.7 Hemi last Saturday and I made my wife watch that part of the clip so she could see the difference.
Well, kinda similar. 3rd gen HEMI combustion chamber doesn't really look that much like the 2nd gen 426 HEMI.
Get well Steve!!!
Old adage- get a bigger hammer. I love the shows and videos. Fantastic
Thx for the " wedge " explanation. Guess you noticed my question a few days ago. Appreciate ya.
I'm working on a Magnum 360 from a '97 Ram at the moment. I'm looking at my choice of heads now.
To make hammering head apart more efficent You can stuck a rug in chamber to prevent valve movement
I wad up a shop rag and put it in the chamber.
The 452 heads in addition to hardened valve seats also had 88 cc combustion chambers for lower compression. 8.5 to 1 if I recall correctly.
You are right about the combustion chamber size but the compression ratio depends on the compression height of the pistons and most of the 70's stuff were really low meaning more like 7.8 all the way down to 7.4 to 1 compression ratios.
When stripping the valves and springs like that its best to put a small piece of wood under the valves to stop them opening.
Wow ive been digging on your knowledge since i was a kid i was a loyal car craft subscriber...
Cudas and challengers may look better but that 4 door is a pretty good looking car. I'm digging your philosophy
I do all the toyota/lexus valves like that, spark plug socket, extra trick is a magnet head inside it.
It's all in the numbers!
I was looking what a max wedge was.thnks.luv u channel. Best on you tube
Very good info.
"Bunged-up" I use that term also LOL Great video Steve and Thanks!
It's not a good idea to reuse head bolts anyway, most are TTY (Torque To Yield) type, meaning they stretch to increase hold and clamping pressure to secure the head to the block securely. Head studs are ideal for any additional power over stock, including boosting.
You should include the auction video on the Remcharger list ! Keep it up Steve! Good content here, especially all those historical tips you give us within all those vids !
God bless Steve 🙌
Awesome absolutely
Hope to see you at MusclePalooza
Thank you
And the right front gets flatter and flatter!
This is a nice build
That number 2 valve was stuck and rusted i doubt spring was broken
Exactly what I thought.
If the engine has been standing for years with the valve on that cylinder open it can happen. Rarely an inlet valve but often an exhaust; if the guide is worn then carbon, crud etc. can grow solid so the valve is stuck. I've seen that quite a few times.
Love your videos
Luv ya work !! Just for ME this stuff beats lookin at any rare mustang. Cheers
Good 👍 stuff
Long live the king of cars 😎👍✌️
You are lucky the valve didn't crash into the piston.
I think some 440 head castings had advantages over others because a few had quench chambers, but most didn't. Also, chamber volume varied. However, since I'm not a Mopar guy, I really don't know that much about the details.
7:45 Yes, but most rebuilders just press in hard seats when rebuilding the earlier heads.
9:55 Plus the combustion chamber shape is much better on modern heads.
Valve spring compressor
Awesome video Steve, very informative. But if it's only going .030 over bore, it will be a 505ci wedge.
I think it's getting a stroker crank, too.
@@LongIslandMopars correct, a 4.25" stroker crank... combined with a 4.35" bore = 505ci.
Too bad you don't have old LA Darts 440/hemi stage V engine...that thing was awesome stuff back in the day...best of luck in that 62.. it will be awesome 👌
Very informative
Great vid
no ring groove is prety common for the older chrysler blocks that had oil changed in them before i go to the next video i'm gonna predict the crank is as perfect as a used one can be and you could get by with a polish and new bearings
I’ve hammered the valves out of small block Chevy heads.
Hemi head: respect! But surprised how inadequate the 440 head appears. Perhaps much more suited for the 383?!
Man Steve I wish I had your help right now. I have a '79 Dodge D150 I have rebuilt, except the wiring. The wiring has never been chopped into. But got a problem. Went to fire it up for the 1st time and accessory stuff don't turn on. No gauges and no radio. All lights t/s and all work. Checked fuses and yep the ones that don't come on no light test light and fuses are good. Almost like power is not getting to the circut board.
Have you checked the ignition switch?
I'd guess a bad fusable link. They are in a splayed harness, on the inner fender, behind the battery. Fairly common problem. Be sure to replace with the correct guage.
@@cecilkoselke7878 the harness behind the battery goes the head lights, markers and horn. Not to sure which fuseable your mentioning. There are fuseables going to the starter relay.
I agree that with Detroit Iron any order is fine, but I recently learned that some Honda and other imported engines with aluminum heads care about order of loosening and removal of head bolts. Strange, huh?
WC Fields once said "Never work with kids or animals" maybe we should add springs to that list ;)
putting a pipe on the end of a ratchet leads to the ratchet mechanism breaking quite often, better to use a non-ratcheting wrench if you have one!
Good job, good video but I'm surprised you didn't mention the location of the spark plugs in the Hemi. Just saying
Steve must have been born with an extra compartment in his brain just for automotive info retainment!
Love these videos learning tons of stuff thanks.....but do miss the model car videos there more in my price range lol
Can I share this trivia with you? In the mid 60s I worked at the service dept of a Chev dealer. A 64 Chev Nova on the lube rack, we noted it had a Ford 4 on the floor 4 speed stick shift transmission, funny? Ford had the patent on a synchronized 1st gear. The stick shift transmission had a Chev part number and a Ford part number on it, too. Fomoco this is too funny, from factory no less.
The 440 looks pretty good condition! Should make a good engine for your 62 Dodge dart!