Enjoying your super rocket videos and your learning curve with old Brit iron. Noticed you mentioned electronic ignition. Where have you located the coils? I have SR Spec gold flash with electronic ignition but I am my 3rd coils in 18 months. My son has an Aprillia 1000 twin and I love that as well. Alan
So it’s SRM’s adaptation of the Boyer system, and should be this one if the link works: www.srmclassicbikes.com/pre-unit-a7-a10/bsa-pre-unit-a7-a10-electrics-ignition They have located the coils under the seat. This week I finally cracked the electrical issues and have made a video on that so will publish that at some point 😊. Yes the Aprilia’s are lovely bikes. Hopefully he’ll throw you the keys at some point 😃
Haha that’s funny! I thought the flat surface of a 50p would have been better, but with the state of the fastener I don’t think it makes much difference!
Have you watched the TH-cam video with the guy on the Triumph scrambler, Who was riding with one hand and hit a pot hole lost Control and came off. Always keep both hands on the bars is my advice, I’ve been riding for 57 years now and only take my hands off for turn signals. Lovely BSA by the way. My Triumph used to wet sump and a Morgo oil pump put a stop to that.🔧⚙️🔩👍
I haven't seen that but sounds like a bad day out for someone. Thanks for the words of wisdom :) Yeah it has the SRM oil pump which I expected would have sorted it but it still does it if left for significant periods of time 🤔
@@CharltonsClassics That’s strange, it’s usually the oil pump, there’s another option, you could fit a stop tap in the oil line, there’s one with a electrical cut out switch so the engine won’t start when the tap is in the off position, so you don’t forget to turn it on, I know a guy who had just a tap and forgot to turn it on, you can imagine what happen next, yes your right, the engine seized up.😱 hope that helps cheers Martin.👍
@@martindavies8326 Ahh that's an interesting one. I was put off the idea when I looked into it ages ago as I could imagine it happening to me at some point, but the electrical cut off is a handy idea. Thanks for that, I will definitely look into it! 🙂
Thanks for the advice here too. I also had the occasional drip on the lowest point of the Speedo cable too. Nipped up the nut to the gearbox but it still happens from time to time, but there is also a leak from underneath somewhere. I just haven’t found it yet 🙄
hi Chris good to see the bike running well, I run some putoline R in my bikes its for 2 stroke and four strokes and grass track great stuff and smells good to, could you please tell me where do you get our castol R from king regards Adrian.
Hi mate, I haven’t bought any for a little while as I bought a few bottles and it lasts for ages. Just had a google and many of the retailers are showing it as out of stock, but this one seems to have some: classiccaroillondon.com/product/castrol-r40/ 😊
I had a similar problem to yourself on a Norton 650SS that I bought.. It was on an alternator which couldn't keep up with the running the lights and charging he battery, which was a real problem because the electronic ignition ran straight off the battery and was VERY power hungry, so with dipped headlights the bike had a range of about 30 miles, after which it just died without any warning !.. It was almost as bad as an E-bike !.. I sold it to a mate who is well versed on electrics and he solved the problem by fitting a new voltage regulator/rectifier unit..
Thanks for the comment there. Yes the electrics have been a bit of an ongoing saga, with more left in the story! I’ve swooped out the halogens and booked in an auto-electrician to come and give her a once over to give me his opinion…
@@CharltonsClassics As well as replacing the regulator/rectifier I've remembered that my mate also fitted a higher output alternator, obviously that fix is no good to you because the A10 has dynamo electrics !..
@@jjrider6758 Would I not be able to fit an alternator to the A10 as a replacement of the dynamo? That’s the last thing on the list if I can’t solve it, mainly due to the price. £600+ for an Alton Alternator from SRM!
@@CharltonsClassics No, you couldn't fit a standard Lucas alternator - BSA did actually make an A10 with an alternator but they're quite rare as it was made for Police bikes only (basically to supply enough power to run the radio and blue flashing light + road lights etc..) The Alton may be your best (and possibly only) option, BTH make some self generating magnetos but I'm not sure if they're suitable for an A10 and would cost more than the Alton in any case !.. You could have your current dynamo serviced which might help but there's no guarantee it will solve the issue (which is likely to be the power hungry electronic ignition, as on my Norton..) Fingers crossed it's just the regulator/rectifier not being of suitable spec, and possibly a higher Amp/hour rated battery, but having seen the section of wiring inside your toolbox the bike looks to have had a well executed rewire done by someone competent. The issue is that under the standard system the dynamo's only job was to charge the battery to run the lights, with the mag taking care of the ignition separately. Now you're asking that same dynamo to do the job of an alternator and provide power for both lights AND ignition and it's struggling to keep up.. (fitting LED bulbs might help a little..) Electronic ignitions are great for reliability, ease of maintenance and easy starting but they really do suck some power (apparently some systems are worse than others for this..) Another option would be to return the system to standard, though again, to buy a mag and have it rebuilt would cost more than the Alton option and it still wouldn't be as reliable and easy to start as with the electronic ignition..
@@jjrider6758 Well thanks again for sharing your knowledge and expertise. My BSA has had the SRM electronic ignition system fitted, which disguises itself in the Mag housing and is supposedly low draw (this one: shop.srmclassicbikes.com/product/electronic-magneto-kit-k2fc-magneto-body). May need to copy and paste that into the browser... So reverting to standard would be a bit of a ball ache, and it used to ride completely fine for up to 2 hours easily (longest rides i would do). So I think I'll see how i get on now that I've changed the bulbs and cleaned the commutator up a bit. Failing that I'll give the Alton a try. All part of the learning process, and I'll try and document it all so at least people like myself can learn from my mistakes haha! Cheers mate
Does your Super Rocket have the standard timing side bush type main bearing or has it had the SRM needle roller conversion ?.. I'm toying with having my Beeza done..
So SRM have done a lot of work on her, including the needle roller bearings (all at someone else’s expense thankfully). Hopefully she will see me out without too much mechanical intervention 😊
@@CharltonsClassics I'm leaning towards having mine done, but every time that I'm just about ready to bite-the-bullet and go ahead with it somebody tells me that as long as you change the oil (very) regularly it's not worth the expense.. unless you're regularly riding at high speed for long periods (motorways etc..) racing the bike or otherwise thrashing it's t1ts off !.. There isn't any play in the bush at the minute so I'll probably wait, ride it through the Summer and send it off in the Autumn..
@@jjrider6758 Well if it’s not broken and it’s riding well, I’m be tempted to hold off until it needs it. I’m not sure what the longevity of the needle roller bearings is, but there’s always something to spend your money on with a classic and it certainly isn’t cheap; especially if you use SRM. The invoice for mine was £8,992 which is crazy really.
@@CharltonsClassics Ooh, that stings a bit.. I might just be losing interest in having it done, it's actually more than the bike is worth !.. I could literally thrash this bike into the ground until it dies and then just buy another and still have 3K left over !..
@@jjrider6758 Ahh, I should have mentioned that the previous owner had a lot of other work done as well as the roller bearings, but it all adds up and I only bought the bike for £8 more at £9000. So yes it is very expensive using SRM, although I’ve heard they do a good job.
That was a Lovely ride on an Awesome Machine. BSA A10 ❤
@@andrewbernard9571 cheers mate. Thanks for the comment 😀
Enjoying your super rocket videos and your learning curve with old Brit iron. Noticed you mentioned electronic ignition. Where have you located the coils? I have SR Spec gold flash with electronic ignition but I am my 3rd coils in 18 months. My son has an Aprillia 1000 twin and I love that as well. Alan
So it’s SRM’s adaptation of the Boyer system, and should be this one if the link works:
www.srmclassicbikes.com/pre-unit-a7-a10/bsa-pre-unit-a7-a10-electrics-ignition
They have located the coils under the seat. This week I finally cracked the electrical issues and have made a video on that so will publish that at some point 😊.
Yes the Aprilia’s are lovely bikes. Hopefully he’ll throw you the keys at some point 😃
Great video Chris, had me chuckling to myself there like, crunch crunch p.s stop talking with ya hands when riding 🤣
Haha. It’s only got 4 gears mate. If I had 6 I’d be more busy with the clutch lever.
Besides, I was trying to catch flies 😂
"£1.58 yer b'stards." My sentiments exactly. I have the same bike except my one takes a 2p coin to open the tool box. Or am I just tight?
Haha that’s funny! I thought the flat surface of a 50p would have been better, but with the state of the fastener I don’t think it makes much difference!
Have you watched the TH-cam video with the guy on the Triumph scrambler, Who was riding with one hand and hit a pot hole lost Control and came off. Always keep both hands on the bars is my advice, I’ve been riding for 57 years now and only take my hands off for turn signals. Lovely BSA by the way. My Triumph used to wet sump and a Morgo oil pump put a stop to that.🔧⚙️🔩👍
I haven't seen that but sounds like a bad day out for someone. Thanks for the words of wisdom :)
Yeah it has the SRM oil pump which I expected would have sorted it but it still does it if left for significant periods of time 🤔
@@CharltonsClassics That’s strange, it’s usually the oil pump, there’s another option, you could fit a stop tap in the oil line, there’s one with a electrical cut out switch so the engine won’t start when the tap is in the off position, so you don’t forget to turn it on, I know a guy who had just a tap and forgot to turn it on, you can imagine what happen next, yes your right, the engine seized up.😱 hope that helps cheers Martin.👍
@@martindavies8326 Ahh that's an interesting one. I was put off the idea when I looked into it ages ago as I could imagine it happening to me at some point, but the electrical cut off is a handy idea. Thanks for that, I will definitely look into it! 🙂
@@CharltonsClassics Glad I could help 👍
Something else you mentioned was your oil leak from gearbox. Mine does that and it is leaking from the speedo drive at front of gearbox. Alan.
Thanks for the advice here too. I also had the occasional drip on the lowest point of the Speedo cable too. Nipped up the nut to the gearbox but it still happens from time to time, but there is also a leak from underneath somewhere. I just haven’t found it yet 🙄
hi Chris good to see the bike running well, I run some putoline R in my bikes its for 2 stroke and four strokes and grass track great stuff and smells good to, could you please tell me where do you get our castol R from king regards Adrian.
Hi mate, I haven’t bought any for a little while as I bought a few bottles and it lasts for ages.
Just had a google and many of the retailers are showing it as out of stock, but this one seems to have some:
classiccaroillondon.com/product/castrol-r40/
😊
cheers Chris thanks for the quick reply, I'll check it out.
I had a similar problem to yourself on a Norton 650SS that I bought.. It was on an alternator which couldn't keep up with the running the lights and charging he battery, which was a real problem because the electronic ignition ran straight off the battery and was VERY power hungry, so with dipped headlights the bike had a range of about 30 miles, after which it just died without any warning !.. It was almost as bad as an E-bike !.. I sold it to a mate who is well versed on electrics and he solved the problem by fitting a new voltage regulator/rectifier unit..
Thanks for the comment there. Yes the electrics have been a bit of an ongoing saga, with more left in the story! I’ve swooped out the halogens and booked in an auto-electrician to come and give her a once over to give me his opinion…
@@CharltonsClassics As well as replacing the regulator/rectifier I've remembered that my mate also fitted a higher output alternator, obviously that fix is no good to you because the A10 has dynamo electrics !..
@@jjrider6758 Would I not be able to fit an alternator to the A10 as a replacement of the dynamo? That’s the last thing on the list if I can’t solve it, mainly due to the price. £600+ for an Alton Alternator from SRM!
@@CharltonsClassics No, you couldn't fit a standard Lucas alternator - BSA did actually make an A10 with an alternator but they're quite rare as it was made for Police bikes only (basically to supply enough power to run the radio and blue flashing light + road lights etc..)
The Alton may be your best (and possibly only) option, BTH make some self generating magnetos but I'm not sure if they're suitable for an A10 and would cost more than the Alton in any case !..
You could have your current dynamo serviced which might help but there's no guarantee it will solve the issue (which is likely to be the power hungry electronic ignition, as on my Norton..)
Fingers crossed it's just the regulator/rectifier not being of suitable spec, and possibly a higher Amp/hour rated battery, but having seen the section of wiring inside your toolbox the bike looks to have had a well executed rewire done by someone competent.
The issue is that under the standard system the dynamo's only job was to charge the battery to run the lights, with the mag taking care of the ignition separately. Now you're asking that same dynamo to do the job of an alternator and provide power for both lights AND ignition and it's struggling to keep up.. (fitting LED bulbs might help a little..)
Electronic ignitions are great for reliability, ease of maintenance and easy starting but they really do suck some power (apparently some systems are worse than others for this..) Another option would be to return the system to standard, though again, to buy a mag and have it rebuilt would cost more than the Alton option and it still wouldn't be as reliable and easy to start as with the electronic ignition..
@@jjrider6758 Well thanks again for sharing your knowledge and expertise. My BSA has had the SRM electronic ignition system fitted, which disguises itself in the Mag housing and is supposedly low draw (this one: shop.srmclassicbikes.com/product/electronic-magneto-kit-k2fc-magneto-body). May need to copy and paste that into the browser...
So reverting to standard would be a bit of a ball ache, and it used to ride completely fine for up to 2 hours easily (longest rides i would do). So I think I'll see how i get on now that I've changed the bulbs and cleaned the commutator up a bit.
Failing that I'll give the Alton a try. All part of the learning process, and I'll try and document it all so at least people like myself can learn from my mistakes haha! Cheers mate
Does your Super Rocket have the standard timing side bush type main bearing or has it had the SRM needle roller conversion ?.. I'm toying with having my Beeza done..
So SRM have done a lot of work on her, including the needle roller bearings (all at someone else’s expense thankfully). Hopefully she will see me out without too much mechanical intervention 😊
@@CharltonsClassics I'm leaning towards having mine done, but every time that I'm just about ready to bite-the-bullet and go ahead with it somebody tells me that as long as you change the oil (very) regularly it's not worth the expense.. unless you're regularly riding at high speed for long periods (motorways etc..) racing the bike or otherwise thrashing it's t1ts off !..
There isn't any play in the bush at the minute so I'll probably wait, ride it through the Summer and send it off in the Autumn..
@@jjrider6758 Well if it’s not broken and it’s riding well, I’m be tempted to hold off until it needs it. I’m not sure what the longevity of the needle roller bearings is, but there’s always something to spend your money on with a classic and it certainly isn’t cheap; especially if you use SRM. The invoice for mine was £8,992 which is crazy really.
@@CharltonsClassics Ooh, that stings a bit.. I might just be losing interest in having it done, it's actually more than the bike is worth !.. I could literally thrash this bike into the ground until it dies and then just buy another and still have 3K left over !..
@@jjrider6758 Ahh, I should have mentioned that the previous owner had a lot of other work done as well as the roller bearings, but it all adds up and I only bought the bike for £8 more at £9000. So yes it is very expensive using SRM, although I’ve heard they do a good job.