Fiberglass & Resin - Making a Custom Ceiling Liner - Ep.52 | 1940 Ford Inspired Hardtop Coupe
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 มี.ค. 2022
- Nick ventures into uncharted territory with composite materials to create a ceiling liner for this hot rod.
The theme behind this build is 'what if Ford's design studio created a 1940 Ford Hardtop Coupe inspired vehicle using the Mustang platform as a base'.
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Nick ! Your so bright I bet your mother calls you “sun”. Thanks for the video.
LOL!! I like that. 👍
Thnx for the video!
You bet!
Great video Nick! You always surprise me with your talents.
I appreciate that!
Soo cool!!....As Gene Winfield often says, "every day is a school day ". Thank you for sharing the tricks of your craft. Your molding approach is genius and a method I've never seen before. It's information like this that keeps me searching for more. Great content!!
Mr. Winfield is incredible! Saw him for the first time on Monster Garage back in 2000 and been a fan of his ever since. He's the guy who created the 'fade away' paint style. Thank you for watching. Hopefully, my videos help you out in some way.
Amazing. Episodes like this really get my mind imagining how I could use this technique to build something cool and unexpected. Hope we briefly get to see how you assemble the 4 pieces to trim and reassemble. I suspect it would be impossible to record, but maybe a quick couple of stills with voice over could facilitate how you do that. Thanks Nick. 👍👍😎👍👍
I'll see what I can do Joel. If you can bare with me talking with a mask on. (Lungs can get pretty itchy without one...or so i'm told... LOL!) Thanks for watching!
I'm late in finding this video but you did a great job on your liner, some hints about fiberglass, you should leave the foil inside for a heat reflecting bonus and if you put a dry layer in the middle of the wet layers it acts as a noise reduction barrier, loose chop works best but the fluffy mat will give great results, for example a semi hood has a 3/4 inch layer of loose chop in between the inside and outside finished surface to kill the noise of the diesel engine, it could make a huge difference in your interior noise levels,,
Great tip! Thanks for watching Geoffrey
@@iNVisionPrototypes great looking car, I'll be watching this one
Hi Nick great tip thanks JJ
You bet!
Wow! What a great idea. I stopped to watch your video. Then subscribed. Learned something new today. Thanks!
Thanks and welcome!!
Nice work 👏 I hate trimming fiberglass.... (itchy Airborne mess). I want to use your idea, but add 1/4" clay curb/dam along edges so I don't have to trim the first mold edges as much. Great video!👍☆☆☆☆☆
I hear ya! That's why I stick to steel most times- lol! Interesting idea bout using a clay dam. Let me know how it turns out.
I was service manager at a boat dealer that had inventory from 11 manufacturers and the premium fiberglass line was 34’ and 14,000 lbs. I have seen a lot in damage repairs, but never in my wildest dreams thought of using this for the headliner support! Absolutely great use of materials, idea and execution. Cured fiberglass resin (Epoxy) sticks to new fiberglass and more resin with out sanding. “Caution” You must wear proper suit, gloves and respirator to do this safely as you otherwise, might as well knit some asbestos under britches and go run a 10k race in 100 degree F weather while watching someone welding without a helmet & lenses. Otherwise, have a good day!
Great video!
Thanks for the tip!
A friend of mine builds all his headliners like this, although he builds an edge with formed angle aluminum ran through the shrinker/stretcher, and some clay. He then used a mold release agent, gel coat then fiberglass. They come out so smooth and besides shrinking them down to fit they're ready for primer and paint.
Awesome!
That’s pretty cool man!
Brilliant!
Thanks Mardy!
Great idea that I’ve never tried! The gears in my head are turning, thanks.
Any time William! Thanks for watching!!
That Nick fella sure is crafty!
Next time Nick'll get the safety scissors and elmer's glue out LOL!! Thanks H! 👍
Nice job!
Thanks Jeff!
Genius!!!!! Thank you for sharing.
My pleasure!
Very nice! Who woulda thought.! Good job.
Thanks!
Metal is your forte but, it's always fun to play with fiberglass ! Air is always the trick !
👍
Instead of tin foil, try Saran Wrap. You won’t have to tape the seams, and it lays down flatter, and it peals free from the hardened resin.
Also, try two layers of bi-directional glass rather than mat. It’s easy to work out air on woven glass as you apply resin. Use a hair dryer to make the resin flow, and a squeegee to move the resin. This will give you a stronger piece that weighs half as much.
Thanks for the tip! We'll be doing the ceiling for the Chrysler soon. Picked up some PVA earlier to see how that works out after we epoxy the body. I don't have any bi-directional glass on hand, wanted to use up the mat roll I have. Will definitely try the hair dryer and squeegee though! Cheers!
WOW amazing
Thanks!
This was a great episode thank you
Thanks Gary!!
Great video. Thanks for the how to on this topic. Still watching.
Thanks for watching!
Great video Nick. I'll be trying it out on a 41 Plymouth pickup rod in the future. A trick I can share in return is using some rare earth magnets to hold things in place. That would help kerp the dry mat in position until you get some resin on it. I have used those small high power magnets in welding jigs as well.
Thank you for a very educational and enjoyable video.
Thanks very much for the TIP! When we do the liner for the '51 we're building I will give that suggestion a shot.
Yes its Amazing ! Easy to follow with your help . I'm going to try it on my project ! Thanks Sir. 👌
You're welcome! Little tricky to remove the foil from the liner after removed from the panel, just take your time when you get an edge up.
That genius
Thanks Tom! Typically one can use a mold release. However I didn't want to introduce anything foreign into the 80 grit surface scratches and then not have future substrates to adhere.
A friend in Calgary that did interiors did something like this to build the base for glueing the headliner material to.
Hi Dale, That's interesting! Thanks for watching 👍
Really cant work out why you have such few subs, you are really good.
I appreciate your support James!
Absolute genius. Subscribed.
Awesome, thank you for the SUB!!
You know what's funny? Everytime I'm laying fiberglass I get to the point where I'm dumping the fiberglass on and my neighbour has come over want to talk to me or somebody has to call me on the telephone or something. Seems to happen every single time😅😅😅 at least you got to make your video without being disturbed oh, well at least what we saw on the video it look like you didn't get Disturbed. Thanks for sharing
LOL!! That DOES happen every time... thanks to Murphy!! That's why I choose to do this in the middle of the night when I could be left alone. Sometimes it's quite the challenge to even get a video done. I appreciate you watching!
Nice 👍🏼
Thank you! Cheers!
Good idea. I used aluminum foil over an RZR years ago and it worked great as well. 🙂
Sweet!!
thanks learned somithing ....tony
Hi Tony, Glad I could help!
This is GENIUS! 👍
Cigarette boat builder tip Pour your resin in lines then use 4" brush to level 👍💜
Great tip! As I think I'm mentioned I'm pretty good at banging out metal, but with f/g & resin I'm really stepping out of my comfort zone so I really appreciate all the help I can get ;) !! Thanks, I will do that next time when I build the ceiling liner for the '51 Shoebox we're building. Thanks for watching Jr!
I've tried using foil in a similar manner this works well but requires a great deal of patience
Awesome Work!!
Thanks a lot!
Yea man 👍
Thanks for watching!
🙋🏼♂️boa tarde irmão muito bom irmão parabéns pelo seu trabalho 👍🏻 🇧🇷
Muito apreciado!!!
I have done this same thing on a 34 Chevy 5 window I built, but I used plastic wrap. It worked very well and made a nice headliner. The worst part is cutting the thing apart and putting it back together. Then I had a bitch of a time getting the finished part back in the car as a 34 Chev doesn't have a lot of room.
Cool! 👍👍
Try wetting out your sheets of glass on a table with a Melamine top. Lift your wet sheets off and lay them on the car. They will lay flatter much easier.
Thanks Rob!! I'll give that a try next time. Thanks for watching
I was getting itchy just watching you, yikes. Thanks Nick 👍👍
Thanks for watching !
I know it costs a little bit, but I really like to tape my aluminum foil together with aluminum hvac tape when I do stuff like this.
Great tip!
I did not read all the comments... I saw this done on one other Vid and throught of doing it myself. A couple of things.... 1] You didn't say what weight Mat you had.... But from my experience it looked like 1 1/2 oz ? 2] Doing the trimming .... That grinder with a zip cut wheel works very well.... It also works VERY well at filling your shop and all over you with fiberglass dust.... There is a better tool.... A Multimaster...It does a vibration cut and the fiberglass dust just drops very easy and not thrown everywhere. Hope that helps someone.
Good eye Bobby, yea I forgot to mention it. Great tip on the multimaster. Gotta get me one of those. Cheers!
Since the pattans have run out everyone has jumped in the game of Multimasters....Fein is the original and still the best. It has a 15ft cord on it, which is unheard of in small electric tools....It Really makes a difference.
I thought long and hard before I plunked my $ down for a Fein...about 2yrs....Lol
Stick with Bimetal blades for fiberglass....if you can.
Again you get what you pay for.
Now you show me...wondered how they did that...I used fiberglass milkhouse board and a heat gun... hard to make the back look good...I split mine up with a ceiling console which helped..cool idea thou...keep the good ideas commin....👍
LOL! There is always more than one way to skin a cat. Never thought of using milkhouse board. Great idea Joe!
Watching you reminds me that when you mix up anything that has an exothermic reaction you want to get it out of the cup as soon as possible. So once you've got a thoroughly mixed I like to pour it into another cup and then mix again to make sure I have no uncatalyzed resin present and then from there I dumped it right onto my Surface either in ribbons or in pools to get it out of the cup because that exothermic reaction will cause everything in the cup to kick so much quicker than if you get it out of the cup where it can stay cooler longer.
I've heard using a flat tray helps in slowing down the cure rate. but pouring from one thing to other is quite the challenge, at least for me.😂😂 Seriously though, I really appreciate all the tips you and others have thrown my way. Will try to use them on the next one. Thank you!!
@@iNVisionPrototypes do the pouring from one little bucket to another is not too slow down the curing it's to get a complete cure. Pouring out of the bucket onto your surface slows it down. So the reason I pour from one bucket to another is when you pour part A into a bucket or Part B and then add the other and mix them there can be a tiny bit of unmixed resin in the bottom corner is sore on the sides of the bucket. By pouring it into a second vessel you are pouring what is probably 95% mixed already into that vessel so there is very little chance of having some unconsolidated or unmixed resin in that second bucket because it is probably left in the first one. Then you just give the mix a nice thorough mixing in the second bucket and then pour it out. People will also say not to use a squeegee if only using one bucket because you could be squeegeeing on mixed resin off the sides or bottom corners of a bucket onto your surface which will then never Harden.
Gotcha!
I have thought of doing similar to strengthen a flimsy roof panel: make a mould, mount underneath the roof with a 5-10mm layer of foam to distribute load and stop rattle, and hold in place with light weight steel frame
What are you working on that has a flimsy roof?
Great video Nick - top tip for doing a large layup - use a bondo squeegee instead of the brush. Pour on the resin and work it in with the spreader. Then consolidate. This will give you a little more working time before it kicks.
Thanks very much for the tip!! I will give that a try next time. I tried to push with the brush... it wasn't pretty so I went back to dabbing... followed by more dabbing. LOL!
@@iNVisionPrototypes Ya, been there - it's far too slow. You should be able to easily get two layers of CSM on the roof with nice consolidation and with a decent fibre to resin ratio. A little release wax and some sprayed PVA also provide an easier barrier/release agent.
It's currently sitting at 2 layers of CSM. Once the liner has been cut down to size rejoin with 2 more layers using your suggested spreader method. You've got me curious! I've been dabbing for years... @_@ As for the wax and PVA, I didn't want to contaminate the fresh metal surface with anything that may compromise primer adhering to it later. If it was painted yea, I'll get the PVA out. Thanks very much for the advice!
@@iNVisionPrototypes If you use proper release wax - a little wax and grease and it's gone. I've had no issues. The real release wax is not like car wax - there are no silicone additives or things that will foul paint in them. I cover mold making on my channel. I've enjoyed your content for quite a while - but in a watch and learn mode. Happy to lend a hand where I can.
A spiked roller works very well or a finned roller. Both are made for removing bubbles from fiberglass while wetting it out.
I did just about the same thing on a 50 buick but I did it on rotisserie with the car upside down and made it one piece
Awesome! That's the right way to do it... top side down :D
When you laid the sheets down, it looked like you were going for the Shag Dog van look from Dumb and Dumber.
LOL!! Yeah, i guess it did look like their van!
You clever bastard
Hi Simon, works like a charm! Thanks for watching!
Hey Nick, which side of the tinfoil is low stick?😉 BTW, you can use a cheap spray adhesive or even Hairspray to place the matting or cloth in place until you put the resin on that way it's one less thing to do after you have your resin mixed up and you're ready to wet it out.
The bottom of course! 🤣
@@iNVisionPrototypes You're right! The less shiny side is always the more non-stick side. Years, I tell ya... years.... before I knew that.🤦♂️
Make sure you buy a roller that can handle resin. Some cannot and will fall apart on you.
Good TIP!
Honney, have you seen the aluminum foil? I can't seem to find it. lol.
👍
Why not do this on the choped top inside, before you weld it on. Just a little extra for trimming to ensure a perfect fit.
In one of my M40C videos I planish just the roof skin right side up and you can see how wishy washy the whole thing is sitting on the stand. The skin needs to be fixed to the car to maintain the correct shape. Thanks for watching Rick.
Did you mix two batches of resin .one for the first layer and then another for the second or just one big batch for both? Thanks
Hi Ian, since I don't work with resin often and didn't want to mix up more than I could handle I mixed up 2 cups at first. Then judging by how much was used additional amounts were mixed until I only mixed up half a cup and made sure everything was wetted out properly. Same process was used for the '51 Fords liner much more surface area and not a drop was wasted. Thanks for watching! Nick
did you shoot a video of cutting it to size and upholstery work to the head liner?
Hi Kim, yup, here's the link th-cam.com/video/ogQHEahj92U/w-d-xo.html of it being cut, fit and reassembled. Unfortunately, due to other deadlines I didn't get a chance to make a video of it being upholstered. I do have an upholstery video that basically shows the process taken th-cam.com/video/KUvR2etsgnY/w-d-xo.html. I'll see how things go with the ceiling liner for the '51. Might get into upholstering that one. Thanks for watching
Excellent. What's the green tape you used round the edge of the roof?
Just regular automotive painter's tape we get at the jobber. Resin and the tape don't get along too well with each other. Gets a little gummy when removing it later from the part. Thanks!!
Can you tell me the type of fiberglass matting that you used
Chopped mat as you can see. Can't recall the size.
What are you using as a roller?
Just an aluminium de-airing roller for fiberglass. You can get them at your local jobber or amazon in various sizes. Thanks for watching!
'62 Sixty Special on the rack?
Yup! We completed our scope of work on her a while back and have a few videos. You can find them in the playlist
Forget the aluminum foil , and spray several layers of PVA and gel coat on top of it
Hi C List, Good tip! If the circumstances were different and the roof was painted I would have. Don't want to introduce anything onto the bare metal at this point.
It's kinda like painting a sheep.
LOL!!🤣
Never thought of tin foil. I use wax paper with a spray bottle of lacker thiner to make the tape stick and packing tape to release edges. . That custom deserves a Carson top. Not a headliner..
A Carson top would have been cool. Perhaps next time I'll form the roof to appear as one. Being a unibody(built over a mustang) we need the strength so the car doesn't fold in on itself. Great tip on using wax paper. Thanks for watching!!
Never handle fiberglass with short sleevs!
Good point Nick! Great name by the way!!
Wear a mask always when working with fibreglass
We do, just had to take it off in places so that you could understand what I was saying. Thanks for watching!
NEXT: Custom Car Ceiling Liner - Trimming & Interior Fitment - Ep.65 | 1940 Ford Inspired Hardtop Coupe -- th-cam.com/video/ogQHEahj92U/w-d-xo.html
You could have trimmed with a utility knife while it was at a green cure state. Also you could have just waxed surface of roof and applied a release agent. No foil needed.
One can do that, just have to make sure that ALL that wax is removed otherwise epoxy primer ... no sticky - and I have never had a substrate not stick. This saved me a few minutes and looks cool! Thanks for watching Bob 👍