When I was a young boy I used to replace the old hardened, perished rubber gaskets or inserts around the mica disk with the old india rubber insulation around the electrical wiring cut into strips and it worked fine.
Very good, and clear. It's something I will need to do at some point. I like how you heat the needle bar to get the wax to melt. I have read that the joins on the gaskets shouldn't line up with each other to reduce the risk of an air leak, but I suppose if they join well it isn't going to matter. Thanks 👍😀
It is a mistake to place the sealing joints on the same side. When the joint is at the bottom on one side, it must be at the top on the other side. If a leak occurs in the joint, this eliminates pressure leakage.
That is correct and is the way I do it now. Seam behind the tone bar in front and for the one in back it's at the top. Luckily it was so tight there are absolutely no leaks to be had here...
It doesn't matter. The gasket joint is supposed to be cut and assembled to be air tight, but even if not, you will get the same air pressure leaks regardless of how far apart the gasket seams are.
@@ohger1 probably true and also most likely not detectable by our ears BUT the old Victor service manuals show staggering them so at this point it's probably mostly tradition which I didn't know at the time of making this...
Yes, I actually mentioned that as an addendum in the notes above though I know not everybody checks out the notes for videos. Luckily they have the comments section to check for any changes or alternate suggestions. This was actually already discussed above.
Fantastic demonstration you made it look easy what type of gasket do use and size can they be bought in hardware shop I Subscribed to your channel looking forward to seen more videos. 😄👍👌
It sounds like the Club Royal Orchestra used the newly invented (1920) Theremin as the lead melody instrument in this recording. I wonder if this is one of the first commercial recordings of the Theremin?
Is that a Theremin? Sounds almost like a bow and saw but too quick and reliably pitched. I did read somewhere that Clyde Doerr was one of the inventors of the Varichord in 1939 but not sure if it's the same guy. Also definitely not this instrument as that is closer to the lap steel...
@@agarso I can't prove that is what it is, but it certainly sounds like one to me given the recording quality available at the time and the fact that I've never heard one from that era. If you look up the history of the Theremin it says it was invented in 1920, so it is possible that it was used in that recording. Would love to know if that is really what it is, but I doubt if there are any written records that would verify it.
@@CovertCulvert I found this link, only lists traditional instruments used... weird! adp.library.ucsb.edu/index.php/matrix/detail/800000565/B-26645-Wholl_take_my_place_When_Im_gone
@@agarso Thank you for looking that up for me. It sure sounds like a Theremin, but I suppose it could be some kind of stringed instrument. Like you said, it sounds too precise for a bowed saw. The sound's envelope was what I noticed that really reminded me of the Theremin. It sounds like a Sine wave, not a saw wave like a violin/cello would. I listened again and the violin takes the second solo. Thanks again for the info!!
They make new rubber flanges; I've replaced many. Have you ever done a Victor Concert reproducer with the very thin wire? I've had one rebuilt twice with not good results and the wire broke again. Any tip should prove helpful.
Hello , what a fantastic video . Nice job . Question : is it not dangerous for the mica to be damaged or deformed when you heat the iron bar in order to melt the beeswax ? Also , why don't you fully dismantle and clean and restore the rest of the reproducer ? Show how it works , how to install it on the player , how to put the needle in , and prove the repair works well . And that rubber part at the back , if it is hardened then does this affect the sound production negatively , or is it just to fix and hold the , i suppose , music horn ? Thank you .
Wow, that's a lot of "why don't yous"... ;-) 1. No, it's not dangerous, it's not a very hot soldering iron, only needs to be hot enough to melt wax. 2. I like the original patina, for things of age to show their age, not look like they did when purchased new 3. other videos do that 4. yes, it probably does affect sound which is why I actually didn't use this until my new rear flange arrived which it did and so now this is installed on my VV-XVI. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this detailed video, If the mica is scratched or cracked at the center at the site of the tiny screw should be replaced?? And can be replaced by any similar material ??
Scratched? No, probably not a big deal. Cracked or de-laminated, yes. I'd replace it. You can find some here! thephonographshop.com/products/reproducer-diaphragm-mica-1-23-32-1-71875-with-hole
The rubber had hardened like a rock and was no longer flexible. That affected the sound negatively. These are meant to be serviced, this one had just waited a long, long time...
Sometimes (depending on how impatient I am that day) I will add just a drop of white glue when I can't keep the gasket material in place whilst trying to reassemble. But yeah, for the most part, no adhesive
This part attaches to the arm of a Victrola phonograph, it's what transmits the vibrations from the grooves of the records to the horn in order to broadcast the music into the room
It's incrredible how simple these are yet manage to produce such incredible sound
Annd all without electrical amplification!
This was an enormously helpful walkthrough, blessedly simple and straightforward. Thanks so much for providing this resource!
Thank you for this great video. It's extremely useful and gives me confidence to start rebuilding my own Exhibition reproducers.
Glad it was helpful, good luck with your rebuild!
Now it's good for another 100 years.
Was trying to remember the title of the background music. Thanks for including the information.
When I was a young boy I used to replace the old hardened, perished rubber gaskets or inserts around the mica disk with the old india rubber insulation around the electrical wiring cut into strips and it worked fine.
Very good, and clear. It's something I will need to do at some point. I like how you heat the needle bar to get the wax to melt. I have read that the joins on the gaskets shouldn't line up with each other to reduce the risk of an air leak, but I suppose if they join well it isn't going to matter. Thanks 👍😀
Very true! Thanks
I just rebuilt a 1925 cherish felt all I have left it's been great I hate to put it for sale may start looking for more this is my first
Why do all the other videos make this seem so hard? That looked incredibly easy!
Good question, good luck with your repair!
Yeah, I was thinking the same thing. I have trouble with little tiny screws tho. Other than that, it's not too bad.
Me encanta, genial!!...mi parte favorita
It is a mistake to place the sealing joints on the same side. When the joint is at the bottom on one side, it must be at the top on the other side. If a leak occurs in the joint, this eliminates pressure leakage.
That is correct and is the way I do it now. Seam behind the tone bar in front and for the one in back it's at the top. Luckily it was so tight there are absolutely no leaks to be had here...
It doesn't matter. The gasket joint is supposed to be cut and assembled to be air tight, but even if not, you will get the same air pressure leaks regardless of how far apart the gasket seams are.
@@ohger1 probably true and also most likely not detectable by our ears BUT the old Victor service manuals show staggering them so at this point it's probably mostly tradition which I didn't know at the time of making this...
Beg to differ with placement of inner tubing seam. It should go at 12 O'Clock to lessen chance of air leaks.
Yes, I actually mentioned that as an addendum in the notes above though I know not everybody checks out the notes for videos. Luckily they have the comments section to check for any changes or alternate suggestions. This was actually already discussed above.
Fantastic demonstration you made it look easy what type of gasket do use and size can they be bought in hardware shop I Subscribed to your channel looking forward to seen more videos. 😄👍👌
The Phonograph Shop has what you need. Check 'em out! thephonographshop.com/products/victor-exhibition-reproducer-gasket-tubing-1-8-od-304pf
@@agarso outstanding cheers for that .😎👍👌
It sounds like the Club Royal Orchestra used the newly invented (1920) Theremin as the lead melody instrument in this recording. I wonder if this is one of the first commercial recordings of the Theremin?
Is that a Theremin? Sounds almost like a bow and saw but too quick and reliably pitched. I did read somewhere that Clyde Doerr was one of the inventors of the Varichord in 1939 but not sure if it's the same guy. Also definitely not this instrument as that is closer to the lap steel...
@@agarso I can't prove that is what it is, but it certainly sounds like one to me given the recording quality available at the time and the fact that I've never heard one from that era. If you look up the history of the Theremin it says it was invented in 1920, so it is possible that it was used in that recording. Would love to know if that is really what it is, but I doubt if there are any written records that would verify it.
@@CovertCulvert I found this link, only lists traditional instruments used... weird! adp.library.ucsb.edu/index.php/matrix/detail/800000565/B-26645-Wholl_take_my_place_When_Im_gone
@@agarso Thank you for looking that up for me. It sure sounds like a Theremin, but I suppose it could be some kind of stringed instrument. Like you said, it sounds too precise for a bowed saw. The sound's envelope was what I noticed that really reminded me of the Theremin. It sounds like a Sine wave, not a saw wave like a violin/cello would. I listened again and the violin takes the second solo. Thanks again for the info!!
I love gramaphone technology and move projector , 🥰👍🇮🇳🙏
They make new rubber flanges; I've replaced many. Have you ever done a Victor Concert reproducer with the very thin wire? I've had one rebuilt twice with not good results and the wire broke again. Any tip should prove helpful.
I've not ever had one in my possession, I'll keep that in mind if ever I do!
Hello , what a fantastic video . Nice job . Question : is it not dangerous for the mica to be damaged or deformed when you heat the iron bar in order to melt the beeswax ? Also , why don't you fully dismantle and clean and restore the rest of the reproducer ? Show how it works , how to install it on the player , how to put the needle in , and prove the repair works well . And that rubber part at the back , if it is hardened then does this affect the sound production negatively , or is it just to fix and hold the , i suppose , music horn ? Thank you .
Wow, that's a lot of "why don't yous"... ;-) 1. No, it's not dangerous, it's not a very hot soldering iron, only needs to be hot enough to melt wax. 2. I like the original patina, for things of age to show their age, not look like they did when purchased new 3. other videos do that 4. yes, it probably does affect sound which is why I actually didn't use this until my new rear flange arrived which it did and so now this is installed on my VV-XVI. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this detailed video, If the mica is scratched or cracked at the center at the site of the tiny screw should be replaced?? And can be replaced by any similar material ??
Scratched? No, probably not a big deal. Cracked or de-laminated, yes. I'd replace it. You can find some here! thephonographshop.com/products/reproducer-diaphragm-mica-1-23-32-1-71875-with-hole
Thank you for this valuable video, l want to know why did you decide to replace all rubber ??
The rubber had hardened like a rock and was no longer flexible. That affected the sound negatively. These are meant to be serviced, this one had just waited a long, long time...
So no adhesive between the hard rubber flange and the back plate... Glad I watched first
Sometimes (depending on how impatient I am that day) I will add just a drop of white glue when I can't keep the gasket material in place whilst trying to reassemble. But yeah, for the most part, no adhesive
This has been rebuilt before.
Most likely! Those gaskets would NEVER survive that long...
Is this like a replica?
That back rubber flange looks like someone made yours out of aluminum and painted black.
Ha, it does look like that, just oxidized rubber though. The black parts are soft, the grey/silver parts are brittle
What is this thing
This part attaches to the arm of a Victrola phonograph, it's what transmits the vibrations from the grooves of the records to the horn in order to broadcast the music into the room
When you're not a talks post another video
I don't think I follow, I'm actually looking to make another video, let me know what you'd like to see!
Indroduceing the gramophone’s vocal chords 😂🤣. This is just a bad joke.
Пол работы дураку не показывают .