I was extremely scared to do this by myself in case I messed it up. This is one of the clearest explanations of a complicated subject I've ever seen. Thank you so much! It really demonstrates your expertise too. Thanks Rottweiler!
Thank You Sooo much for this! Last time I replaced a clutch was in the late 80s... I have the opposite issue on my 21 890 Duke R. My bike hardly goes in to neutral. I have to raise the RPMs to about 2500 or more to get it to go in to neutral. I've tried EVERY possibility with the clutch cable and/or the shift linkage. Hoping this solves my issue or at least I find something out of whack when I install this shift detent arm. I have used quick shifter at all because I want to solve this issue first. Thank You, again!!!
Awesome! Thanks for the comment and liking the video. This one was a little 'impromptu', but thought we would just shoot it gorilla style and hope that people will like it. Sounds like you did!
This product fixes the problem of false neutrals in higher gears. It happened to me between the 5th and 6th march. I installed it and it was completely resolved.
So glad it helped! Definitely planning on doing more like this. If we can help people, and especially help them before they make the decision to buy then all the better. We want people happy with their purchases throughout the entire process from getting the part, to installing it, to using it. And then, selling the bike and repeating the entire process!! :)
I have found that the false neutral between 5-6 seems to be that the throw on the shift is longer for that shift. I adjusted my shift lever down so that my toe lift starts lower and doesn’t have to raise up so much to make the positive click into 6th. And that seems to fix the missed shift. That being said, I went ahead and changed the internal shifting lever to the pro also just as an insurance policy.
We totally get you. We have done similar things. The 690 engines (700GG and 701Husky) need a very decisive and purposeful shift for them to not hit false neutrals. Moving the shifter helps with those a bit too, but doubling down with the Factory Pro kit certainly helps too.
Well we are very lucky in that we have a lot of parts flowing through here and get to learn some cool things that we can hopefully pass on to our awesome customers. Hope you enjoyed it and thank you for the kind words!
Great video, very helpful for my install. Unfortunately, I am in the 1 in 10 statstic where the Shift Kit hasn't helped with false neutrals.('20 790 Duke)
Tip: Before removing the stock detent arm stuff a rag down inside the engine case below the main shaft. This way if anything drops down while your disassembling or assembling the detent arm it will not go into the bottom end of the engine!! Ask me how I know this 😢 While dissembling the stock detent arm I accidentally dropped the bearing hat (washer) and it disappeared down inside the engine! In the end I took it to my dealer and they had to drop down the header,remove the oil pan and oil pump to retrieve the bearing hat. Had I been more diligent this all could have been avoided by stuffing a rag into the opening directly below. Just passing it along so maybe someone else can learn from my mistake.
Comment’s like this are the reason we do it. We realized that there is a lot going on in our shop that we could share if we just took a little time to make some videos about them. Really glad this helped out and thanks for the positive comments!
@@RottweilerPerformance I watch your install vids for stuff I will never even put on my bike just because it is time well wasted! On a side note. What does this shift kit accomplish? Will it help with my bike going from 3rd to N?
@@PeterParker-ot8pl Thanks Peter! The shift kit is just a piece of insurance that disallows the rider to put too much force on the transmission shift linkage and forks and subsequent parts. It probably won't cure miss shifts to be honest, but will help protect things for sure.
@@RottweilerPerformance Firstly, thanks for the excellent, clear video. I was looking at the shift pro kit to reduce/elimate false neutrals on my 701 (which happen all the time!). The website specifically says it is designed to do this, "Virtually eliminate missed shifts and false neutrals", but you are saying differently? I'm confused.
Does this fix an issue where the bike will “fall” out of gear? I will be riding in second or first relatively slow speeds and my bike will find itself in neutral. Never replaced a clutch before. Is it the clutch pack? Or that arm isn’t staying in gear?
This kit does a couple of things. It replaces the stock spring with a stronger one, which helps keep the shift cam in place better than stock. It also replaces the steel bearing with a roller bearing which is slightly better for less 'sticktion' on shifts. Nothing is a 'fix' per se, but this kit according to a lot of our customers really really helps.
I saw the video well. I can't get any force from the release lever assembly after replacing the clutch disc a while ago. The clutch hook is also well engaged. What parts need to be checked?? Even if you pull the clutch lever, it pulls without force. Is the clutch disc assembly wrong??
We would loosen the screw on the side of the lever arm and see if it will rotate around so that the clutch can hook the pull pin and disengage the clutch properly. That is a common mistake some people make when reassembling the cover.
@@RottweilerPerformance The lever arm side is not the bolt side. I mean, the tension bolt and the clutch release shaft can't catch the hook, so there's no power to pull the clutch.
Hey Chris I have an interesting question for you and would love to see if you would know ...I may have dropped/shot a valve shim down in the bottom of the cam chain compartment....it looks like you can but can you get in and figure out if it's in there from the clutch being removed?
@@RottweilerPerformance no...I have the motor all back together for about a week now....its not making that much noise that I can detect I just had to tap one of the shims out with a punch to get it to move....needless to say it dissapeared from sight and worried me quite a bit
Excellent - Question - At 13:00 when replacing the washer, with the 1 holes in it, prior to installing the clutch hub, you didn't line up the washer with the holes in the rear clutch basket, those holes presumably exist for a reason such as oil flow or something shouldn't' they be lined up with the holes in the clutch basket? Perhaps they are a manufacturing or assembly consideration and don't matter. Can you clarify please?
That's a great question. They do not line up with anything. If you notice, that shaft rotates independently from the clutch basket as that is the link between the crank and the main shaft and when the clutch is pulled the rotate separately. They may be there to allow oil through them, but there are no indications to line them up with anything nor do they line up with anything.
To some degree but there are some differences. It's not really the same as this and is actually a bit more complicated on that model. What you want to watch our for is the arrows and lining up the pressure plate in the proper way. Can't say when, but we may do a video for that one too at some point.
Thank you for the great video! Very well made! I would like to install this for my 790 Adventure R but I can't find this factory pro linkage on your website or anywhere else. Can I buy it through you guys?
Thanks for making the time for the vid. Sweet! You doing it one handed means I can do it with my two left hands. I’m totally over the false neutrals I keep shifting into and reving the living hell out of the engine because of it.
They have a similar kit for 690, what is the actual improvement in shifting positivity? I’ve heard a lot of hardly noticed, didn’t even notice comments for it on that bike, what’s your take?
The feedback we get is that about 75% loved them and it cured their false neutrals on those models, and the rest still had false neutral problems. For the most part and for most, these really work, but we suspect that there may be multiple issues with those transmissions and only some of which get fixed with these parts.
21:19 The lever arm hook part of the clutch cover and the protruding part of the clutch disc do not seem to get caught. There is no pulling force. How should I take action??
Dumb question, is the pull rod still in the pressure plate? If you want to continue this in email so you can send pictures, send an email to info@rottweilerperformance.com and ask that it be forwarded to CP in tech help.
Why did you offset the last fiber plate when it was not offset before you disassembled the clutch? You can clearly see that there is no offset plate at the 4 minute make in your video.
My 890 repair manual indicates the clutch hub nut has torque specs of 135 NM. My torque wrench set goes up to 110 NM and I'm debating an impact driver or wrench but I'm seeing different torque specs on the tools as well. There are 1/4" and 1/2" tools with the large size generally having more torque. Using the impact driver/wrench how did you determine which tool to use and when it's torqued?
Is it good to torque them? Absolutely, but is it the end of the world if you don't? Not really. While we typically follow the manual on everything we can, these videos are for anyone and everyone and many people, most people we should say don't have the correct tools to really torque these big nuts properly so we show them the impact way. One suggestion is to mark the bolt with paint or nail polish as well as the inner hub. The nut will go back on in the same fashion and if you line up the marks when impacting back on you will be very close to what it was before when it was installed at the factory, assuming they torqued it on properly. If anything, go a tiny bit further as threads stretch over time. This is how torque works, by stretching threads. Use the mark system and you should be very close and thanks for commenting.
You guys make cool vids 👍🏼don’t have a ktm right now but looking at one soon, you guys have probably seen tons of duke 790s is the countershaft seal leak common? Or is it like some are saying lube from chain ?
I was extremely scared to do this by myself in case I messed it up. This is one of the clearest explanations of a complicated subject I've ever seen. Thank you so much! It really demonstrates your expertise too. Thanks Rottweiler!
Thank you so much for your comment! Glad it helped and this kind of encouragement really helps the drive to make more of them!
My go-to video for 890 clutch work. Thanks!
Glad you loved it!! We certainly plan to make more!
Thank You Sooo much for this! Last time I replaced a clutch was in the late 80s... I have the opposite issue on my 21 890 Duke R. My bike hardly goes in to neutral. I have to raise the RPMs to about 2500 or more to get it to go in to neutral. I've tried EVERY possibility with the clutch cable and/or the shift linkage. Hoping this solves my issue or at least I find something out of whack when I install this shift detent arm. I have used quick shifter at all because I want to solve this issue first. Thank You, again!!!
You got it! So glad it helped you and encourages us to do more!
Fellow Californian KTM owner here bro. Keep making videos. Love the content.
Awesome! Thanks for the comment and liking the video. This one was a little 'impromptu', but thought we would just shoot it gorilla style and hope that people will like it. Sounds like you did!
I live in Victorville and wanted to make a run down to your guy’s shop. Are you open to the public?
@@M3thodbombz We are! M-F 8-5. We do walk ins and offer free nickel tours lol.
@@M3thodbombz We are!
I'm not planning on doing this job, but I really appreciate how well made and clear this video is. Thank you.
This product fixes the problem of false neutrals in higher gears. It happened to me between the 5th and 6th march. I installed it and it was completely resolved.
Best video to understand better of KTMs mechanics.
Thank you!
Chris, thank you for this video and for such brilliantly clear and precise instruction throughout!
Genuinely fantastic to watch.
So glad it helped! Definitely planning on doing more like this. If we can help people, and especially help them before they make the decision to buy then all the better. We want people happy with their purchases throughout the entire process from getting the part, to installing it, to using it. And then, selling the bike and repeating the entire process!! :)
I have found that the false neutral between 5-6 seems to be that the throw on the shift is longer for that shift. I adjusted my shift lever down so that my toe lift starts lower and doesn’t have to raise up so much to make the positive click into 6th. And that seems to fix the missed shift. That being said, I went ahead and changed the internal shifting lever to the pro also just as an insurance policy.
We totally get you. We have done similar things. The 690 engines (700GG and 701Husky) need a very decisive and purposeful shift for them to not hit false neutrals. Moving the shifter helps with those a bit too, but doubling down with the Factory Pro kit certainly helps too.
Chris can fix these bikes better with one hand than I can with four. 😅
Well we are very lucky in that we have a lot of parts flowing through here and get to learn some cool things that we can hopefully pass on to our awesome customers. Hope you enjoyed it and thank you for the kind words!
Why is it that the last outward friction plate is staggered from all the others? Great tutorial by the way!
Thank you! It may just be a way to get the most plates into a smaller space although we’ve never really asked ourselves this really good question.
Brilliant video.... thanks for taking the time
Great video, very helpful for my install. Unfortunately, I am in the 1 in 10 statstic where the Shift Kit hasn't helped with false neutrals.('20 790 Duke)
Yeah, it's about that ratio for sure. Most are very happy with the outcome, but for some the problem may lie elsewhere.
Well, I guess I can add this to the list of things to get.
Tip: Before removing the stock detent arm stuff a rag down inside the engine case below the main shaft. This way if anything drops down while your disassembling or assembling the detent arm it will not go into the bottom end of the engine!! Ask me how I know this 😢
While dissembling the stock detent arm I accidentally dropped the bearing hat (washer) and it disappeared down inside the engine! In the end I took it to my dealer and they had to drop down the header,remove the oil pan and oil pump to retrieve the bearing hat. Had I been more diligent this all could have been avoided by stuffing a rag into the opening directly below. Just passing it along so maybe someone else can learn from my mistake.
Great addition! Thanks for sharing that and helping our community with good info!
Very well done instructional video! Thank you for doing this!
Comment’s like this are the reason we do it. We realized that there is a lot going on in our shop that we could share if we just took a little time to make some videos about them. Really glad this helped out and thanks for the positive comments!
@@RottweilerPerformance I watch your install vids for stuff I will never even put on my bike just because it is time well wasted!
On a side note. What does this shift kit accomplish? Will it help with my bike going from 3rd to N?
@@PeterParker-ot8pl Thanks Peter! The shift kit is just a piece of insurance that disallows the rider to put too much force on the transmission shift linkage and forks and subsequent parts. It probably won't cure miss shifts to be honest, but will help protect things for sure.
@@RottweilerPerformance Firstly, thanks for the excellent, clear video. I was looking at the shift pro kit to reduce/elimate false neutrals on my 701 (which happen all the time!). The website specifically says it is designed to do this, "Virtually eliminate missed shifts and false neutrals", but you are saying differently? I'm confused.
You guys should bring out a clear clutch cover for the 790/890!
That is exactly I was in need about. Thanks!
Awesome! Hope it helped.
Great tips that will definitely come in handy! Also liking the trick Pro Shift Kit!!!!
Awesome video, thanks Chris.
Chris, Noticed you have an oil nozzle sitting with the other parts but never mention it in the video?
It wasn't for this build. To my best recollection it was just something we were looking at.
Does this fix an issue where the bike will “fall” out of gear? I will be riding in second or first relatively slow speeds and my bike will find itself in neutral. Never replaced a clutch before. Is it the clutch pack? Or that arm isn’t staying in gear?
This kit does a couple of things. It replaces the stock spring with a stronger one, which helps keep the shift cam in place better than stock. It also replaces the steel bearing with a roller bearing which is slightly better for less 'sticktion' on shifts. Nothing is a 'fix' per se, but this kit according to a lot of our customers really really helps.
I saw the video well. I can't get any force from the release lever assembly after replacing the clutch disc a while ago. The clutch hook is also well engaged. What parts need to be checked?? Even if you pull the clutch lever, it pulls without force. Is the clutch disc assembly wrong??
We would loosen the screw on the side of the lever arm and see if it will rotate around so that the clutch can hook the pull pin and disengage the clutch properly. That is a common mistake some people make when reassembling the cover.
@@RottweilerPerformance The lever arm side is not the bolt side. I mean, the tension bolt and the clutch release shaft can't catch the hook, so there's no power to pull the clutch.
Hey Chris I have an interesting question for you and would love to see if you would know ...I may have dropped/shot a valve shim down in the bottom of the cam chain compartment....it looks like you can but can you get in and figure out if it's in there from the clutch being removed?
Jeromie, I'm just seeing this but I'm betting you have figured this out by now. Did you find the shim?
@@RottweilerPerformance no...I have the motor all back together for about a week now....its not making that much noise that I can detect I just had to tap one of the shims out with a punch to get it to move....needless to say it dissapeared from sight and worried me quite a bit
Excellent - Question - At 13:00 when replacing the washer, with the 1 holes in it, prior to installing the clutch hub, you didn't line up the washer with the holes in the rear clutch basket, those holes presumably exist for a reason such as oil flow or something shouldn't' they be lined up with the holes in the clutch basket? Perhaps they are a manufacturing or assembly consideration and don't matter. Can you clarify please?
That's a great question. They do not line up with anything. If you notice, that shaft rotates independently from the clutch basket as that is the link between the crank and the main shaft and when the clutch is pulled the rotate separately. They may be there to allow oil through them, but there are no indications to line them up with anything nor do they line up with anything.
I need to do a clutch pack in my 690 soon, is it similar to this one inside at all?
To some degree but there are some differences. It's not really the same as this and is actually a bit more complicated on that model. What you want to watch our for is the arrows and lining up the pressure plate in the proper way. Can't say when, but we may do a video for that one too at some point.
May I ask stupid question , what is it for?
Great video BTW
Thank you for the great video! Very well made! I would like to install this for my 790 Adventure R but I can't find this factory pro linkage on your website or anywhere else. Can I buy it through you guys?
Right here! www.rottweilerperformance.com/factory-pro-ktm-790-pro-shift-kit-ceramic-bearings/
Thanks for making the time for the vid. Sweet!
You doing it one handed means I can do it with my two left hands.
I’m totally over the false neutrals I keep shifting into and reving the living hell out of the engine because of it.
They have a similar kit for 690, what is the actual improvement in shifting positivity? I’ve heard a lot of hardly noticed, didn’t even notice comments for it on that bike, what’s your take?
The feedback we get is that about 75% loved them and it cured their false neutrals on those models, and the rest still had false neutral problems. For the most part and for most, these really work, but we suspect that there may be multiple issues with those transmissions and only some of which get fixed with these parts.
What does this do exactly I have a 2020 790 and always looking for upgrades
This helps with false neutrals and more positive shifts. 1 out of 10 says they can't tell the difference and the rest seem to really love them.
21:19 The lever arm hook part of the clutch cover and the protruding part of the clutch disc do not seem to get caught. There is no pulling force. How should I take action??
Dumb question, is the pull rod still in the pressure plate? If you want to continue this in email so you can send pictures, send an email to info@rottweilerperformance.com and ask that it be forwarded to CP in tech help.
Why did you offset the last fiber plate when it was not offset before you disassembled the clutch? You can clearly see that there is no offset plate at the 4 minute make in your video.
My 890 repair manual indicates the clutch hub nut has torque specs of 135 NM. My torque wrench set goes up to 110 NM and I'm debating an impact driver or wrench but I'm seeing different torque specs on the tools as well. There are 1/4" and 1/2" tools with the large size generally having more torque. Using the impact driver/wrench how did you determine which tool to use and when it's torqued?
Is it good to torque them? Absolutely, but is it the end of the world if you don't? Not really. While we typically follow the manual on everything we can, these videos are for anyone and everyone and many people, most people we should say don't have the correct tools to really torque these big nuts properly so we show them the impact way.
One suggestion is to mark the bolt with paint or nail polish as well as the inner hub. The nut will go back on in the same fashion and if you line up the marks when impacting back on you will be very close to what it was before when it was installed at the factory, assuming they torqued it on properly. If anything, go a tiny bit further as threads stretch over time. This is how torque works, by stretching threads. Use the mark system and you should be very close and thanks for commenting.
Very well explained. Interesting that KTM doesn’t use a locking tab washer under the big nut.
On the 2020 version they use :)
Can I put the bike in gear in order to remove or torque down the 30mm clutch basket nut?
Absolutely. Use the tallest gear possible as the ratio will certainly help with that.
@@RottweilerPerformance Wouldn't that damage any internals?
You guys make cool vids 👍🏼don’t have a ktm right now but looking at one soon, you guys have probably seen tons of duke 790s is the countershaft seal leak common? Or is it like some are saying lube from chain ?
i like ur video explaination,,,,,,,,,,tq
The so called “jutter spring” is actually called a bellville washer.
It's both. The Rekluse manual refers to it as a judder spring, so we kept the same terminology to keep things cohesive with the actual instructions.
Superb video !!!
Thank you! We hope it helps people interested in this product and to know just how to do it.
Best cideo ever god thankyou
Has anyone done this with th cfmoto 800nk?
Not to our knowledge but can't see why it wouldn't work. The motors should be identical.
Best video
Thank you for watching!
xcellent job...