While watching the cradle build, I had one of those light bulb ideas that may be of use. Make all the cradles the same size (big enough for the largest tool you will use, and build tool specific bases that will slip into the cradles. This may not work in all instances but it could limit the number of cradles you need to haul around and make storing the tools in the trailer easier. Thanks for all your videos. GR
I really love the "what I would do different if I did again . As a hobby woodworker that likes to do 'one off projects, and small 'production runs it helps to hear the reason for those decisions. At least it helps this viewer!! :-)
Your video is so detailed that I wouldn't even have to buy plans to get it done. I bought them nonetheless (as well as the smart bench), to reward the continuous developpement for such useful tools as well as your generosity and the minitious descriptions in your videos. That will help for sure.
These cradles are a great idea. Now a good follow up would be to make a wall rack to place them when not in use. Not sure they may would work well in your situation storing them in a trailer. Bouncing down the road would likely end up slowly shaking them apart. But those of us in garage/ basement shops would be a great idea for a storage option.
Ron, thanks for the video. I waited until you released your video before cutting out my pieces. I purchased the plans for the Dewalt Table saw (corded), as I mentioned in an email last week. I did proceed to draw out the dimensions, and I agree that metrics are easier to work with. I am grateful for the time you took to create the video as it helped me to anticipate any problems that might have come up. One of which is that I’m concerned about the height of the table, but you made me aware that I can cut the horizontal of the side pieces after fitting the saw onto the cradle. I purchased the screws online but not the specific counter sink...I will practice with a Forster bit on scrap wood to determine if that is a possible alternative. I recently purchased a Grizzly bench top bandsaw for which a cradle will be made! Thanks! Scott in Pa.
I like the idea of making the Smart Kradle's depth the same as the workbench then use spacers to bring shallow tools to the height of the top. You may have to store the standard Kradle and spacers that work for several different shallow tools.
Had the original Paulk Bench 2’x8’ pairs but wanted to upgrade for compactness and increased efficiency - so Just finishing my PSS & PSB (changed mid build, had just cut my lightweight plywood to size for the older plans when you released the PSS & PSB plans, so I recut and went with the newer designs - also using the Parf 2 for the holes on the top and extensions) , then built 3 of the Paulk Smart Benches (2 additional; one for my brother and one for my 82 yo father who’s still woodworking strong) built the smart crosscut, also the Smart Cart, and have 2 router tops (one uses an Incra Master lift 2, and the other I have the new Triton Oscillating spindle sander w/ a router base plate - but love the cradle idea - have a fixed shop - but a lot duplicated in portable bench top tools too, so I can do a lot on site when needed - the cradles w/ the PSS is a game changer for me - Thanks Ron for your ongoing efforts!!
Lots of us USA dinosaurs, alas. My mom taught her 3rd grade classes metric back in the 1970s with activities like baking cookies and measuring distances on the playground with a meter wheel on a stick. They all seemed to enjoy learning metric.
I need to start watching the videos when they post. Second video I watched today where the product being reviewed is already out of stock. Great video!
Great video Ron! If you build several specific tool cradles you may want to build a tool cradle/cart for storage in the trailer or workshop when not using each one or saving space on the workbench. Just a thought for a future project and video!
It would be an interesting experiment to build a cart that could accommodate just one tool in a functional position on the top, and possibly room for another to mount or rest below. Put tool storage on the non fixture side....
as a rule, your cradle has to be as deep as the bench so the "cantilever torque" can resolve into tension at your top cradle connection into the bench top and compression at your bottom cradle connection into the bench bottom. I was cringing when you were cutting it short of the table depth but you eventually realized your error. Min depth to a cradle should be the depth of your bench so your idea of a general cradle with buildup inside the cradle is the way to go. Then make purpose tool cradles if they need to be deeper. Mine will have a french cleat at the bottom cradle connection sitting on the vertical leg of the bench side cutouts but it obviously works without it. Thanks for the plans and video
Great video Ron. Have only recently found your videos and have found them great. I expect I will see this somewhere else but it looked like the this was connected only using two hole in the bench. What am I missing? It doesn’t seem like it would be strong enough. Being from Australia. I love that you use metric. Love it.
I like the concept, and I'm compelled to put this into my up and coming shop design. The one thing I can't get past is not needing fine tuning for leveling out the hook on cradles. I can't help but believe that there won't be sagging over time, or other real world things that come into play. Has anyone had to add some sort of design of this?
I'm not sure if it was intentional or not, but the 32 mm system actually works well mentally for people who work with inches if you think about it. Consider that IF 1 mm = 1 inch, the 32 mm system is almost like most framing, (96mm =96 inches, 32mm = 32 inches, etc), a very convenient way to think about it :)
Another great solution Ron. Can I ask what fixings you use to screw into the sides, into the end grain of the base and front plywood? It looks like a very large head for normal screws.
Before I moved and had the work bench I always wanted to make a huge dove tail at the end of the bench. Think 2 French cleats at 45 degree angles. Slide straight up to remove and slide down to install.
Hi Ron , I built the smart bench a while ago and am looking to do the cradle for the table saw. Quick question when looking at the plans the height you got is the same as the tool. Then it looks like you put some 18mm feet underneath the tool to negate for the top which then connects to smart bench. Is this right? Thanks, Joel.
I’d make em all deep/universal.That space under (or beside) a tool if you need to jack it up would be a good place for wrenches or other hand tools, or blades or clamps...A piece of 1/8” ply or even HPL could close off the lower hole if u wanted to use it for storage.
Hey Ron, Where are you buying 20mm hardwood dowels? I'm a relative newby with routers, and I've been learning while building the PSB and PSS. I watched you in the video use that Dewalt router and you routed one time after another and I'm not sure how you were changing the depth? On my Bosch 1617 router, There is an indexing hard stop, and I have to rotate that manually with each pass and adjust my plunge depth to the new stop depth. Is there a trick to this so you don't have to do it manually each pass? Or are you just dropping your router depth and guessing at the amount your dropping with each pass?
@@TheSmartWoodshop Thanks for letting me know and passing on your experience. Hopefully that will save someone a lot of frustration. Love your videos and explanations.
I just built this cradle for my PSB ( the 3 x 6 size) and I'm using the dewalt cordless table saw same as you. Unfortunately I'm a little disappointed that when I want to rip something down like a half sheet of plywood it will tip my table over no problem. Any solution to this? Thanks!
Thats a great idea, im gonna make the smart station now i have Rons plans. Its the first time iv seen the cradle and cant help wonder why its not made so the top of your table saw or whatever isn't flush with the top of the bench? Do you need to use rips of plywood ontop of the bench to make up the difference?
@TheSmartWoodshop is it an idea to fit the cradle to the bench with French cleat? That way the top of the table saw or whatever tool is flush with the bench so no additional supports are needed onto of the bench?
Quick thought Ron; When I cut the boards on the Kapex, I score the top of the board then bring the saw all the way out and down, and cut through the board. Seems to me you get the same result as flipping the board. Very small detail, but time is money!
I believe his method is intended to reduce splintering on the botom edge of the board, which is why it needs to be turned. There is usually no tear out on the top face due to the direction of the blade rotation.
I built your original table, that uses the hinges as keys to set the folding legs/horses in place. Did you devise a table top lockdown system along the way that I missed? If I hung one of these cradles off the side of my smart work table, I feel it might tip up from the legs.
It could tip depending on the tool weight. On the PSS with miter saw and table saw, I have no issue. On the PSB, I have no issue with a small tool like the DeWalt battery TS, but with the 88# SawStop, I make sure I have another tool hanging off the opposite end. You could also cut an offset set of holes on the bottom of the PSB that would move the cradle closer to the sawhorse which would move the tipping point. It is a dance to make it solid and still be light and portable. I have both benches working well. I do like the idea of locking in the sawhorses but have liked any of the methods I have tried so far. 😎🤙
Hello Ron, was curious if you have planed on your board-schedule on the wall to talk about the trailer it self? The brand, cost, why that one in particular, experience so far with it etc. Or have I missed that somewhere although I do follow your channel. As always great work and THANKS for sharing all of this priceless knowledge with us. 👽
PMFJI He did a whole series on the trailer... every single detail you’re looking for and more... even a contest to name it. Was really a cool series it’s gotta be in the YT playlists or on his website.
Is there a good reason that rounding up to the next multiple of 96mm is needed when determining how wide the unit should be? Why couldn't you just leave it at 4.2 x 96mm? I watched the whole video to see if there was a good reason, and never saw anything that would indicate that it's necessary. In fact, since you eventually add cleats to keep the tool centered, wouldn't making it in the actual tool width preclude the need for the cleats?
I think it is aesthetics mostly. With an even 96, he can place it alongside a router cradle or other add on with no gap in the surface to catch a sliding bit of material.
@@GlennBrockett i think you hit the nail on the head. To meld both of your ideas, i think making the cradle itself fit the tool (4.2 times 96) then the top connector alone a multiple of 96 and have the top piece be wider than the rest of the cradle. Also, depending on the tool, the gaps on the sides might be necessary for the vacuum to fit thru to the back of the tool.
I'm interested in the plans for the smart cradle and the PSBB. Question, I have a heavy table saw as well ~80lbs. Would the bench/cradle handle that weight without tipping over without any kind of counterweight? Thanks for the content, cant wait to build the bench.
@@michaelnichols7669 Michael, I was just getting ready to provide the link to that video. th-cam.com/video/9kj4QRbC-GI/w-d-xo.html Also my SawStop weighs 84 lbs. Thanks Ron
That’s a lot of work to only be supported by two pins. Why not at least 4? I got that two are “plenty strong enough”, but over time and use ‘wood-against-wood’ are going to cause at least a few thousandths of crushed wood fibers.
Why not add a removable, adjustable leg, with a gusset or brace for rigidity, under the front center of the cradle with a locking caster. That way you would have stability with no possible deflection and it would also allow for uneven floors without sacrificing portability. I.e. lock it in place while you are working and flick the caster unlock when you need to roll.
@@TheSmartWoodshop you da man and I'm not a contractor but I am thinking relying on dowels on 3/4 ply for that level of durability is impossible. If you say it's not an issue then I defer
That Fastcap tape has 32mm pips on the tape so you won't have to use a calculator to round up. It is a great tape. You should give a lesson on measurement. My battle is with parallax error. I am after ways to NOT measure. Some lessons from an experienced finish carpenter wouldn't go amiss.
The back was not tall enough originally (118mm) so you added additional height. So what is the minimum height (???mm) for the back to work with the benches. Thanks
I am semi-retired with state current contractor licenses from Arizona to Florida and have hundred of millions of dollars in projects over the past several decades. I have never, not once, had a set of plans that were metric. I understand that metric is easier to do the math, but I refuse to convert plans drawn by architects from feet and inches to metric; that would be ridiculous. in the mainstream. All AIA documents refer to measurements done in feet and inches, weight in pounds, and volume in cubic yards, etcetera. Walk into any supplier and try to order a few 50.8 x 101.6 instead of 2 by 4's. On and on I could go. Jimmy Carter tried to convert miles per hour into kilometers per hour; that lasted about as long as his re-election did. I like your videos for ideas.
Skip, you'll be happy to know that all of the Smart Woodshop Plans are available in both imperial and metric measurements. I have separate pages for each system, rather than combining them on the same pages. Initially, I started with imperial measurements, but I found that 90% of my customers prefer metric. Although the plan benches are all designed based on the 32mm system, which has been the worldwide industry standard for cabinets for over four decades, it's important to note that the 32mm system originated during the post-WWII reconstruction period. So, if you're not using 20mm holes spaced 96mm apart, the Smart Benches and the industry-standard MFT (Multi-Function Table) tables might not be the best fit for your needs.
Measure that 50x100 mil lumber and tell me what you get? How about a .70 inch wide piece of 3/4 ply... calling it 18mm ply is a mile (haha) closer to the truth. I don't have a huge problem converting in my head for close enough, which is ironically what any dimensional lumber is. I do wish one standard would prevail though - having both is a problem that probably won't go away in my lifetime. Carry on!
I believe the idea is that this works as a system with other plans that Ron has produced, which is in turn influenced by Festool's MFT standards. I grew up with Imperial but enjoy the simplicity of Metric whenever I can.
I was extremely lucky to grow up having to learn both systems as I was born in England in the early 60's and migrated to Australia before I had finished school. Both have their advantages and it is extremely advantageous to have an intuitive understanding of both. I just can't understand why anyone would want to limit themselves by staunchly sticking to one system or the other.
@@jeffreygillham9890 - Because in the USA contractors use empirical. Walk into Home Depot and order plywood or dimensional lumber in metric and they will think you're an arrogant prick and not a contractor!
It would be helpful to first show or illustrations how the cradle functions in use before getting into dimensions. First establish what it is and does. Watching someone do math is not engaging
You use the word "smart" a lot for a dopey surfer guy who just drills way too many random holes in things. No part of that structure needs an entire box of screws planted in it.
While watching the cradle build, I had one of those light bulb ideas that may be of use. Make all the cradles the same size (big enough for the largest tool you will use, and build tool specific bases that will slip into the cradles. This may not work in all instances but it could limit the number of cradles you need to haul around and make storing the tools in the trailer easier.
Thanks for all your videos.
GR
I really love the "what I would do different if I did again . As a hobby woodworker that likes to do 'one off projects, and small 'production runs it helps to hear the reason for those decisions. At least it helps this viewer!! :-)
Your video is so detailed that I wouldn't even have to buy plans to get it done.
I bought them nonetheless (as well as the smart bench), to reward the continuous developpement for such useful tools as well as your generosity and the minitious descriptions in your videos. That will help for sure.
Okay, it was worth the $5.00. Thanks for another great video companion to your plans.
These cradles are a great idea. Now a good follow up would be to make a wall rack to place them when not in use. Not sure they may would work well in your situation storing them in a trailer. Bouncing down the road would likely end up slowly shaking them apart. But those of us in garage/ basement shops would be a great idea for a storage option.
I was having the same thought. Creative thinking to design that will be on my agenda in the near future.
Thank you for sharing this video. Your bench and cradles are brilliant ideas. Hope to duplicate some of them myself for my shop.
Ron, thanks for the video. I waited until you released your video before cutting out my pieces. I purchased the plans for the Dewalt Table saw (corded), as I mentioned in an email last week. I did proceed to draw out the dimensions, and I agree that metrics are easier to work with. I am grateful for the time you took to create the video as it helped me to anticipate any problems that might have come up. One of which is that I’m concerned about the height of the table, but you made me aware that I can cut the horizontal of the side pieces after fitting the saw onto the cradle. I purchased the screws online but not the specific counter sink...I will practice with a Forster bit on scrap wood to determine if that is a possible alternative. I recently purchased a Grizzly bench top bandsaw for which a cradle will be made! Thanks!
Scott in Pa.
Cool concept. I can envision a series of wall mounts for too storage in the shop. Thanks Ron.
I like the idea of making the Smart Kradle's depth the same as the workbench then use spacers to bring shallow tools to the height of the top. You may have to store the standard Kradle and spacers that work for several different shallow tools.
Ron why not use aluminium bench dogs to attach the cradle to the bench instead of dowels?
Had the original Paulk Bench 2’x8’ pairs but wanted to upgrade for compactness and increased efficiency - so Just finishing my PSS & PSB (changed mid build, had just cut my lightweight plywood to size for the older plans when you released the PSS & PSB plans, so I recut and went with the newer designs - also using the Parf 2 for the holes on the top and extensions) , then built 3 of the Paulk Smart Benches (2 additional; one for my brother and one for my 82 yo father who’s still woodworking strong) built the smart crosscut, also the Smart Cart, and have 2 router tops (one uses an Incra Master lift 2, and the other I have the new Triton Oscillating spindle sander w/ a router base plate - but love the cradle idea - have a fixed shop - but a lot duplicated in portable bench top tools too, so I can do a lot on site when needed - the cradles w/ the PSS is a game changer for me - Thanks Ron for your ongoing efforts!!
Glad you prefer metric. I n Australia we converted to metric in 1966, but some dinosaurs still use imperial.!
Lots of us USA dinosaurs, alas. My mom taught her 3rd grade classes metric back in the 1970s with activities like baking cookies and measuring distances on the playground with a meter wheel on a stick. They all seemed to enjoy learning metric.
I ask my wife to bring me "two fingers" of scotch. So I know I am a happy dinosaur.
I need to start watching the videos when they post. Second video I watched today where the product being reviewed is already out of stock. Great video!
Great video Ron! If you build several specific tool cradles you may want to build a tool cradle/cart for storage in the trailer or workshop when not using each one or saving space on the workbench. Just a thought for a future project and video!
It would be an interesting experiment to build a cart that could accommodate just one tool in a functional position on the top, and possibly room for another to mount or rest below.
Put tool storage on the non fixture side....
as a rule, your cradle has to be as deep as the bench so the "cantilever torque" can resolve into tension at your top cradle connection into the bench top and compression at your bottom cradle connection into the bench bottom. I was cringing when you were cutting it short of the table depth but you eventually realized your error. Min depth to a cradle should be the depth of your bench so your idea of a general cradle with buildup inside the cradle is the way to go. Then make purpose tool cradles if they need to be deeper. Mine will have a french cleat at the bottom cradle connection sitting on the vertical leg of the bench side cutouts but it obviously works without it. Thanks for the plans and video
I was contemplating using a French cleat instead, too. Let us know how it works if you try it.
I appreciate the honesty as you go along and realize your mistakes and how you would improve your work.
Great video Ron. Have only recently found your videos and have found them great. I expect I will see this somewhere else but it looked like the this was connected only using two hole in the bench. What am I missing? It doesn’t seem like it would be strong enough. Being from Australia. I love that you use metric. Love it.
I like the concept, and I'm compelled to put this into my up and coming shop design. The one thing I can't get past is not needing fine tuning for leveling out the hook on cradles. I can't help but believe that there won't be sagging over time, or other real world things that come into play. Has anyone had to add some sort of design of this?
I'm not sure if it was intentional or not, but the 32 mm system actually works well mentally for people who work with inches if you think about it. Consider that IF 1 mm = 1 inch, the 32 mm system is almost like most framing, (96mm =96 inches, 32mm = 32 inches, etc), a very convenient way to think about it :)
Another great solution Ron. Can I ask what fixings you use to screw into the sides, into the end grain of the base and front plywood? It looks like a very large head for normal screws.
Answered at 25:48. :-)
Before I moved and had the work bench I always wanted to make a huge dove tail at the end of the bench. Think 2 French cleats at 45 degree angles. Slide straight up to remove and slide down to install.
Ron did you ever design a cradle for the miter saw to work on the smart workbench? I don’t want to loose workbench surface for one.
Hi Ron , I built the smart bench a while ago and am looking to do the cradle for the table saw. Quick question when looking at the plans the height you got is the same as the tool. Then it looks like you put some 18mm feet underneath the tool to negate for the top which then connects to smart bench. Is this right? Thanks, Joel.
Great videos, did you work with fast cap on their "flex bench"? Seems very similar...
I’d make em all deep/universal.That space under (or beside) a tool if you need to jack it up would be a good place for wrenches or other hand tools, or blades or clamps...A piece of 1/8” ply or even HPL could close off the lower hole if u wanted to use it for storage.
Hey Ron, Where are you buying 20mm hardwood dowels? I'm a relative newby with routers, and I've been learning while building the PSB and PSS. I watched you in the video use that Dewalt router and you routed one time after another and I'm not sure how you were changing the depth? On my Bosch 1617 router, There is an indexing hard stop, and I have to rotate that manually with each pass and adjust my plunge depth to the new stop depth. Is there a trick to this so you don't have to do it manually each pass? Or are you just dropping your router depth and guessing at the amount your dropping with each pass?
I wonder if you considered flipping your side pieces over and cleaning up the first one with a flush trim bit after the fact??
Great Job RUN Looks Really Good Thanks...👍📐🔨
Great video Ron! I have one question, you remove excess material from the bottom and sides but not the back, how come?
Too much flex. The back needs a solid surface. I cut it out in an early prototype and it was a big fail.
@@TheSmartWoodshop Thanks for letting me know and passing on your experience. Hopefully that will save someone a lot of frustration. Love your videos and explanations.
I just built this cradle for my PSB ( the 3 x 6 size) and I'm using the dewalt cordless table saw same as you. Unfortunately I'm a little disappointed that when I want to rip something down like a half sheet of plywood it will tip my table over no problem. Any solution to this? Thanks!
th-cam.com/video/9kj4QRbC-GI/w-d-xo.html
Thats a great idea, im gonna make the smart station now i have Rons plans.
Its the first time iv seen the cradle and cant help wonder why its not made so the top of your table saw or whatever isn't flush with the top of the bench?
Do you need to use rips of plywood ontop of the bench to make up the difference?
@@danthechippie4439
@TheSmartWoodshop is it an idea to fit the cradle to the bench with French cleat? That way the top of the table saw or whatever tool is flush with the bench so no additional supports are needed onto of the bench?
Quick thought Ron; When I cut the boards on the Kapex, I score the top of the board then bring the saw all the way out and down, and cut through the board. Seems to me you get the same result as flipping the board. Very small detail, but time is money!
I believe his method is intended to reduce splintering on the botom edge of the board, which is why it needs to be turned. There is usually no tear out on the top face due to the direction of the blade rotation.
I built your original table, that uses the hinges as keys to set the folding legs/horses in place. Did you devise a table top lockdown system along the way that I missed? If I hung one of these cradles off the side of my smart work table, I feel it might tip up from the legs.
It could tip depending on the tool weight. On the PSS with miter saw and table saw, I have no issue. On the PSB, I have no issue with a small tool like the DeWalt battery TS, but with the 88# SawStop, I make sure I have another tool hanging off the opposite end. You could also cut an offset set of holes on the bottom of the PSB that would move the cradle closer to the sawhorse which would move the tipping point. It is a dance to make it solid and still be light and portable. I have both benches working well. I do like the idea of locking in the sawhorses but have liked any of the methods I have tried so far. 😎🤙
Off topic: do you still use the Dewalt Mobile lock? Just saw your video on it and it was a few years ago.
He doesn’t answer
Thanks, I was just wondering how good it was before I purchased one
@@georgedavall9449 He does answer some comments - not many, but some.
Hello Ron, was curious if you have planed on your board-schedule on the wall to talk about the trailer it self? The brand, cost, why that one in particular, experience so far with it etc. Or have I missed that somewhere although I do follow your channel. As always great work and THANKS for sharing all of this priceless knowledge with us. 👽
PMFJI He did a whole series on the trailer... every single detail you’re looking for and more... even a contest to name it. Was really a cool series it’s gotta be in the YT playlists or on his website.
Is there a good reason that rounding up to the next multiple of 96mm is needed when determining how wide the unit should be? Why couldn't you just leave it at 4.2 x 96mm? I watched the whole video to see if there was a good reason, and never saw anything that would indicate that it's necessary. In fact, since you eventually add cleats to keep the tool centered, wouldn't making it in the actual tool width preclude the need for the cleats?
I think it is aesthetics mostly. With an even 96, he can place it alongside a router cradle or other add on with no gap in the surface to catch a sliding bit of material.
@@GlennBrockett i think you hit the nail on the head. To meld both of your ideas, i think making the cradle itself fit the tool (4.2 times 96) then the top connector alone a multiple of 96 and have the top piece be wider than the rest of the cradle. Also, depending on the tool, the gaps on the sides might be necessary for the vacuum to fit thru to the back of the tool.
I'm interested in the plans for the smart cradle and the PSBB. Question, I have a heavy table saw as well ~80lbs. Would the bench/cradle handle that weight without tipping over without any kind of counterweight? Thanks for the content, cant wait to build the bench.
Just saw your video suggesting the strap on the opposite end.I'm GTG 🤙
@@michaelnichols7669 Michael, I was just getting ready to provide the link to that video. th-cam.com/video/9kj4QRbC-GI/w-d-xo.html Also my SawStop weighs 84 lbs. Thanks Ron
That’s a lot of work to only be supported by two pins. Why not at least 4? I got that two are “plenty strong enough”, but over time and use ‘wood-against-wood’ are going to cause at least a few thousandths of crushed wood fibers.
Why not use aluminium bench dogs instead of the dowels
What industry standard are you talking about with the 96mm?
32mm System. 96mm used on the MFT is a multiple of 3x 32mm
Thanks for the great video. I just bought your plans and am starting soon! What is the red hand tool you use at the 20 minute mark?
Fast cap fastbreak. Great, inexpensive tool for breaking edges.
what kind of screws are you using?
He stated that they are from Fastcap.
Why not add a removable, adjustable leg, with a gusset or brace for rigidity, under the front center of the cradle with a locking caster. That way you would have stability with no possible deflection and it would also allow for uneven floors without sacrificing portability. I.e. lock it in place while you are working and flick the caster unlock when you need to roll.
That is a solution to a problem I don’t have. KISS
@@TheSmartWoodshop you da man and I'm not a contractor but I am thinking relying on dowels on 3/4 ply for that level of durability is impossible. If you say it's not an issue then I defer
@@stevenhines5550 I have 5 tool cradles and one of them is holding up the SawStop JS Pro. 2 years and going strong. 😎
That Fastcap tape has 32mm pips on the tape so you won't have to use a calculator to round up. It is a great tape. You should give a lesson on measurement. My battle is with parallax error. I am after ways to NOT measure. Some lessons from an experienced finish carpenter wouldn't go amiss.
Run that by me again Stanley you lost me after bout 5 seconds lol
The back was not tall enough originally (118mm) so you added additional height. So what is the minimum height (???mm) for the back to work with the benches. Thanks
Same as the height of the bench.
@@GlennBrockett 914mm
I love your work but you make me nervous. As a retired machinist the long sleeves or any bulky outfit is a NO NO around moving tools .
Yep, that red sleeve wont flip the brake on that SawStop.
I am semi-retired with state current contractor licenses from Arizona to Florida and have hundred of millions of dollars in projects over the past several decades. I have never, not once, had a set of plans that were metric. I understand that metric is easier to do the math, but I refuse to convert plans drawn by architects from feet and inches to metric; that would be ridiculous. in the mainstream. All AIA documents refer to measurements done in feet and inches, weight in pounds, and volume in cubic yards, etcetera.
Walk into any supplier and try to order a few 50.8 x 101.6 instead of 2 by 4's. On and on I could go. Jimmy Carter tried to convert miles per hour into kilometers per hour; that lasted about as long as his re-election did.
I like your videos for ideas.
Skip, you'll be happy to know that all of the Smart Woodshop Plans are available in both imperial and metric measurements. I have separate pages for each system, rather than combining them on the same pages. Initially, I started with imperial measurements, but I found that 90% of my customers prefer metric.
Although the plan benches are all designed based on the 32mm system, which has been the worldwide industry standard for cabinets for over four decades, it's important to note that the 32mm system originated during the post-WWII reconstruction period. So, if you're not using 20mm holes spaced 96mm apart, the Smart Benches and the industry-standard MFT (Multi-Function Table) tables might not be the best fit for your needs.
Measure that 50x100 mil lumber and tell me what you get? How about a .70 inch wide piece of 3/4 ply... calling it 18mm ply is a mile (haha) closer to the truth. I don't have a huge problem converting in my head for close enough, which is ironically what any dimensional lumber is. I do wish one standard would prevail though - having both is a problem that probably won't go away in my lifetime. Carry on!
I believe the idea is that this works as a system with other plans that Ron has produced, which is in turn influenced by Festool's MFT standards. I grew up with Imperial but enjoy the simplicity of Metric whenever I can.
I was extremely lucky to grow up having to learn both systems as I was born in England in the early 60's and migrated to Australia before I had finished school. Both have their advantages and it is extremely advantageous to have an intuitive understanding of both. I just can't understand why anyone would want to limit themselves by staunchly sticking to one system or the other.
@@jeffreygillham9890 - Because in the USA contractors use empirical. Walk into Home Depot and order plywood or dimensional lumber in metric and they will think you're an arrogant prick and not a contractor!
Ok great but what does it do. Not included in a 30 minute video
It would be helpful to first show or illustrations how the cradle functions in use before getting into dimensions. First establish what it is and does. Watching someone do math is not engaging
AGREE!
You use the word "smart" a lot for a dopey surfer guy who just drills way too many random holes in things. No part of that structure needs an entire box of screws planted in it.