Hi North! Really interesting to see the different methods you've used. I'm going to be stripping some older models soon, so this has been quiet timely. Rich
Very interesting didn't know about breke fluid. Have some old LMS coaches to refurbish so will give both methods a try. I have a bottle of strip magic that works great but is expensive and only comes in a small bottle regards Sam Woodward
Great overview on removing paint there North. Whatever method used it does highlight the amount of work required and none are straight forward. I’ll be avoiding the sloppily painted coaches with a barge pole. 😉 Paul
Commendable effort, but amateurish to some extent. Brake fluid Dot4, methylated spirits, white spirit, turpentine, rubbing alcohol are some of the materials that SHOULD NOT be employed in the restoration of plastic models. There are some excellent products specifically designed to strip paint, which are environmentally friendly and water based, which makes them safer to use and safer to good old Mother Nature: 1. Revell REV39617 Paint Remover, 2. BioStrip 20 Paint Stripper: Both remove effectively paints such as acrylics, oils, vinyl, water and oil based primers, varnishes, polishes, etc; leaving the surface material intact. This is your primary objective, to get the surface clean but INTACT! Plastics used in modelling (trains or otherwise) are high quality polymers which can withstand high temperatures during moulding inside big steel blocks, then harden to retain all the great detail we see in modern plastic models. Revell REV39617 Paint Remover is liquid... So paint it on with a soft brush, a soft hair mop type is good. Leave it alone for 15 minutes or so, it starts blistering soon, then remove the paint with a soft toothbrush or similar. BioStrip 20 Paint Stripper is a gel. Use a synthetic round brush (the ones designed to paint with acrylics are great - I use a number 10 or 12), dab the gel GENEROUSLY, all over the model. Do this late evening. As soon as the model is covered in gel, wrap it in clingfilm in a way whereby the clingfilm touches the gel wherever it is applied to the model, as much as you possibly can. Then take this "clingfilm parcel" and wrap it with aluminium foil. Leave it overnight. It works gently and safely. Next day morning, unwrap the piece, take a brush used for stencilling (one of the those very densely packed with a flat surface) or a very soft toothbrush, washing-up soap (Fairy or similar) and running tap water, and brush off the old paint. It should come off easily, in fact it tends to flake right off the surface. You should be left with a perfectly clean piece, as if it just came off the factory mould. Finally use a soft artists brush (synthetic hair type are cheap and good for this), size 12 or so, pure sugar soap solution, wash the piece with the brush, dipping it in undiluted sugar soap. Rinse well under running tap water. Leave the piece(s) aside, standing on kitchen paper or lint-free cotton rag to dry naturally. Yes, the processes described above are not the short and fast approach. But you will achieve superior results. The better your preparation work, the better your final result. You must avoid the scars of prep work, because they will show through the final paint layers and the result will be disappointing. Your prep time is not a waste of time, it is an investment in the final result.
Hi North! Really interesting to see the different methods you've used. I'm going to be stripping some older models soon, so this has been quiet timely. Rich
Very interesting didn't know about breke fluid. Have some old LMS coaches to refurbish so will give both methods a try. I have a bottle of strip magic that works great but is expensive and only comes in a small bottle regards Sam Woodward
That looks really cool! love your passion for what you do, I don't have any old coaches but I'll definitely save the video for another time.
@Nicolas Alfred get the fuck off my comment this is a scam don't trust it
Great video. You might want to try IPA to strip paint as it is less nasty than Brake Fluid.
Great overview on removing paint there North. Whatever method used it does highlight the amount of work required and none are straight forward. I’ll be avoiding the sloppily painted coaches with a barge pole. 😉 Paul
Thanks Paul, more fun stripping the rest and painting to come lol
Excellent, especially the meths, but try dettol for a day - if you can stand the smell!
If using brake fluid don't leave them in too long
Best option is Dettol.
Removes the paint easily.
Very nice
Nice one!
Looks better
I use meths normally as it works really well Andy
Commendable effort, but amateurish to some extent. Brake fluid Dot4, methylated spirits, white spirit, turpentine, rubbing alcohol are some of the materials that SHOULD NOT be employed in the restoration of plastic models.
There are some excellent products specifically designed to strip paint, which are environmentally friendly and water based, which makes them safer to use and safer to good old Mother Nature:
1. Revell REV39617 Paint Remover,
2. BioStrip 20 Paint Stripper:
Both remove effectively paints such as acrylics, oils, vinyl, water and oil based primers, varnishes, polishes, etc; leaving the surface material intact.
This is your primary objective, to get the surface clean but INTACT! Plastics used in modelling (trains or otherwise) are high quality polymers which can withstand high temperatures during moulding inside big steel blocks, then harden to retain all the great detail we see in modern plastic models.
Revell REV39617 Paint Remover is liquid... So paint it on with a soft brush, a soft hair mop type is good. Leave it alone for 15 minutes or so, it starts blistering soon, then remove the paint with a soft toothbrush or similar.
BioStrip 20 Paint Stripper is a gel. Use a synthetic round brush (the ones designed to paint with acrylics are great - I use a number 10 or 12), dab the gel GENEROUSLY, all over the model. Do this late evening. As soon as the model is covered in gel, wrap it in clingfilm in a way whereby the clingfilm touches the gel wherever it is applied to the model, as much as you possibly can. Then take this "clingfilm parcel" and wrap it with aluminium foil. Leave it overnight. It works gently and safely. Next day morning, unwrap the piece, take a brush used for stencilling (one of the those very densely packed with a flat surface) or a very soft toothbrush, washing-up soap (Fairy or similar) and running tap water, and brush off the old paint. It should come off easily, in fact it tends to flake right off the surface. You should be left with a perfectly clean piece, as if it just came off the factory mould. Finally use a soft artists brush (synthetic hair type are cheap and good for this), size 12 or so, pure sugar soap solution, wash the piece with the brush, dipping it in undiluted sugar soap. Rinse well under running tap water. Leave the piece(s) aside, standing on kitchen paper or lint-free cotton rag to dry naturally.
Yes, the processes described above are not the short and fast approach. But you will achieve superior results. The better your preparation work, the better your final result. You must avoid the scars of prep work, because they will show through the final paint layers and the result will be disappointing. Your prep time is not a waste of time, it is an investment in the final result.