Slinky...thank you very much for this EXCELLENT, very helpful video. I've owned an OASE BioMaster Thermo 350 for about a year now and love it. I use it on a 32-gallon fresh water planted aquarium with excellent results. I use the OASE 60 PPI pre-filter sponges and clean them weekly as I run a fairly heavy bio-load of fish, shrimp and snails. I do a full canister cleaning every three months or so which seems to be about right. I've had issues with my OASE filter sucking air in from somewhere...I've re-tightened everything and it's still making some noise...but I've NOT been using any food-grade silicon grease on the rubber O-rings as you suggested...so I've ordered some from Amazon and will try that. I drilled extra holes in the pre-filter uptake tube several months ago as you did with great results. I'm going to try lubricating the primer-pump o-ring as well which is hidden inside the blue cap of the primer-pump. Somebody said that solved their air noise problem. Here's a video on that process: th-cam.com/video/OP5trIxGRYE/w-d-xo.html Thanks again for the great job!
Thanks Jim, great filters, just need a little tlc to get them running perfect sometimes 🤣🤣🤣 thanks for sharing that video, anything that helps our fellow hobbyists is golden .
Excellent for me these videos,cos I'm useless at taking things apart and putting thing back together.Gave me a lot of confidence just watching how it's all done.You make it look easy. Cheers.
Very instructive material. What other filters do you have? We want to see them all. Small advice: don't rush when you show us details, give us time to hit the pause button. Well done, now I know where are located the two valves in the Oase. ( they are always two, one before the pump and one after)👍
Great video. I have just installed an Oase Biomaster 850 thermo on my African Cichlid tank. I might replace my other external with another one at some point as they seem great filters.
Hi mate from across the pond, Australia. Brilliant thorough video. quick question: The rubber seal in prefilterl- do you remove it to lube it up.. if so, then how do you remove it? or what's your method for lubing up seal thanks and have a lovely week.
@@urbansk8r231 thanks mate 👊🏻 No I leave the seal in place as it’s very tightly fitted so stretching it to remove it risks damaging it so just use food grade lube from Amazon or the like and lube up the outer surface of the rubber seal as that’s the only part that could potentially leak water.
Slinky, this was a very good video, you explained everything very well detailed, good job, in my opinion at the moment we have 2 good canister filter, Oase / German and Aquael/ Poland called Ultramax that Also has a a prefilter that does a good job, according to all the videos that I have seen, it's also very good, the only point that I don't know is refer to spare parts for the units, but with no doubt, the oase is a very good filter.
Thanks 🙏🏻 The ultra max is a very good high capacity filter,well made and simple to look after with a decent flow rate. If Aquael did a version with a heater is could be perfect.
Great video, thanks for taking the time. I've got this filter running on my tank, and it frequently burps air. There must be air leaking into the filter somewhere. Have you run into this?
Thanks Scott 🙏🏻 No, I’ve never had a single fault with my Oase filters leaking.As a sealed unit if air is getting in then water will get out once the unit is turned off,place a towel under your filter and let it run for an hour,turn the heater and pump off and leave 30 mins,if there’s a gap anywhere you’ll see water. I do get air trap after I’ve cleaned the prefilter but I let the filter run for 5 mins after I’ve replaced the unit and then slightly tilt the filter each way once or twice and this lets any built up air find its way to the pump outlet. Trapped air following maintenance is common if the pump outlet is sited to one side of the head,units with pump outlets sited in the middle of the head suffer far less.
If you happen to have a heavily aerated tank, like one running an air-stone, then in my experience you'll get trapped and occasional purging air from your Biomaster. Do away with the air-stone, if you can (maybe increase surface agitation with filter outlet), & the problem resolves.....just my experience !
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Is it a known mod for these to drill in bigger holes in the pipe in the prefliter and fit the orange sponges instead of the blue ones that come with the filter?
It is but since I made this video a few years back I’ve found out drilling holes in the pipe actually makes no difference, the power of the pump is all that affects flow (besides clogged filter media). As long as a pump can run to its maximum output, offering less resistance on the feed will not increase pump capacity.
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But what if you fit in orange sponges instead of the blue ones? Should you drill bigger holes or there is no benetif in doing so, just leave it like it is? @@slinkyscapes8530
If you open the slider too fast water will come out, the pressure in the housing is low but enough to push water out as it lets air in. I open it slowly until I hear a slight hissing noise then leave it for 10 seconds or so before fully opening
Can anyone help me, when I reattach and lock the hose attachments in water starts gushing out of the whole pump. I’ve made sure both the canister and hose attachments are locked in but no help
Could be incorrectly fitted media trays. Is the water coming out of the pump head to canister body?, if so, media trays not slotted together stops a good seal, other than that the seal ring may be damaged.
Whenever I clean the prefilter and restart the filter, dirty water starts gushing out of the outflow for a few seconds. Can anyone pls explain why is this happening?
It can be detritus in the pipes, that initial rush of water can stir up what’s inside those pies and in the main canister. Detritus in the pipes looks more like flakes of dirt as opposed to dirty water but think about it, if your tank water is clean the only place dirty water can come from is the filter so check there first. Another thing to try is once you think the pre filter sponges are clean, put some clean water in a container and squeeze the pre filter sponges one last time.
You have to locate where the air is entering. Any air entering AFTER the intake/outflow will be apparent with water leaking out once the filter is unplugged as gravity puts a slight pressure on the filter housing. If there is no water leaking from the filter itself then the only place air can enter is from the intake, what equipment are you using for the intake/outflow ? Standard Oase ? Something else ?
@@makivillanueva8951 if you can, use a standard one piece intake/outflow like the ones from Eheim where there’s no chance of air entering due to them being made from one single piece. The stock ones supplied by Oase just aren’t up to the job and most of the air entering a filter problems I’ve seen are from that part as they slide together. Your version of lily pipe can introduce air via the surface skimmer, if the slots at the bottom of the intake get clogged then pressure naturally pulls the surface skimmer down and draws air in. Aquario have introduced a very clever design of surface skimmer that eliminates this problem.
The finer the sponge the more regular cleaning of the pre-filter you’ll have to do but that lowers the maintenance of the actual canister. I run the orange (30ppi) sponges on start up and for roughly 3 months as I place filter floss in the canister. After 3 months I remove the floss and run the blue (45ppi) or even the black carbon impregnated (60ppi) sponges as once a tank is mature I only want to enter the main canister 2/3 times a year.
They are and now you can buy inline heaters that takes away one of the 3 top stand out pro’s for the Biomaster. Saying that it’s the innovation and quality your paying for as most filters don’t have everything covered in one box.
Oase Biomaster after 1.5 years, flooded my house at night, the product is still absolutely damp, only the plastic in it is good. Got rid of it, I use eheim again.
Slinky...thank you very much for this EXCELLENT, very helpful video. I've owned an OASE BioMaster Thermo 350 for about a year now and love it. I use it on a 32-gallon fresh water planted aquarium with excellent results. I use the OASE 60 PPI pre-filter sponges and clean them weekly as I run a fairly heavy bio-load of fish, shrimp and snails. I do a full canister cleaning every three months or so which seems to be about right. I've had issues with my OASE filter sucking air in from somewhere...I've re-tightened everything and it's still making some noise...but I've NOT been using any food-grade silicon grease on the rubber O-rings as you suggested...so I've ordered some from Amazon and will try that. I drilled extra holes in the pre-filter uptake tube several months ago as you did with great results. I'm going to try lubricating the primer-pump o-ring as well which is hidden inside the blue cap of the primer-pump. Somebody said that solved their air noise problem. Here's a video on that process: th-cam.com/video/OP5trIxGRYE/w-d-xo.html Thanks again for the great job!
Thanks Jim, great filters, just need a little tlc to get them running perfect sometimes 🤣🤣🤣 thanks for sharing that video, anything that helps our fellow hobbyists is golden .
Excellent for me these videos,cos I'm useless at taking things apart and putting thing back together.Gave me a lot of confidence just watching how it's all done.You make it look easy. Cheers.
Thank you 🙏🏻
best Oase prefilter explain in the web! Thanks
Great video mate, thanks for your help 👍🏽
Thanks Parker 👍🏻👍🏻
Great breakdown on cleaning. Thank you. I'm getting a Oase 350 for my aquascaped 50 gallon.
I bought one today and nearly broke off the unlocking lever. Thought I got a faulty unit. Thanks for very helpful video.
Very instructive material. What other filters do you have? We want to see them all. Small advice: don't rush when you show us details, give us time to hit the pause button.
Well done, now I know where are located the two valves in the Oase. ( they are always two, one before the pump and one after)👍
Thx you my MASTER!!! Gritting from Poland 😉
awesome video Mate, i learned so much on the Pre filter cleaning.
Thanks, would be interesting to see your filtration setup in the canister.
Great video. I have just installed an Oase Biomaster 850 thermo on my African Cichlid tank. I might replace my other external with another one at some point as they seem great filters.
Hi mate from across the pond, Australia. Brilliant thorough video. quick question: The rubber seal in prefilterl- do you remove it to lube it up.. if so, then how do you remove it? or what's your method for lubing up seal thanks and have a lovely week.
@@urbansk8r231 thanks mate 👊🏻
No I leave the seal in place as it’s very tightly fitted so stretching it to remove it risks damaging it so just use food grade lube from Amazon or the like and lube up the outer surface of the rubber seal as that’s the only part that could potentially leak water.
@@slinkyscapes8530 Oh I see.. Good thing I asked. I do have hydrOseal tap lube- says it food machine grade so I'll just use that. Thanks.
Slinky, this was a very good video, you explained everything very well detailed, good job, in my opinion at the moment we have 2 good canister filter, Oase / German and Aquael/ Poland called Ultramax that Also has a a prefilter that does a good job, according to all the videos that I have seen, it's also very good, the only point that I don't know is refer to spare parts for the units, but with no doubt, the oase is a very good filter.
Thanks 🙏🏻
The ultra max is a very good high capacity filter,well made and simple to look after with a decent flow rate. If Aquael did a version with a heater is could be perfect.
Great video, thanks for taking the time. I've got this filter running on my tank, and it frequently burps air. There must be air leaking into the filter somewhere. Have you run into this?
Thanks Scott 🙏🏻 No, I’ve never had a single fault with my Oase filters leaking.As a sealed unit if air is getting in then water will get out once the unit is turned off,place a towel under your filter and let it run for an hour,turn the heater and pump off and leave 30 mins,if there’s a gap anywhere you’ll see water. I do get air trap after I’ve cleaned the prefilter but I let the filter run for 5 mins after I’ve replaced the unit and then slightly tilt the filter each way once or twice and this lets any built up air find its way to the pump outlet.
Trapped air following maintenance is common if the pump outlet is sited to one side of the head,units with pump outlets sited in the middle of the head suffer far less.
If you happen to have a heavily aerated tank, like one running an air-stone, then in my experience you'll get trapped and occasional purging air from your Biomaster. Do away with the air-stone, if you can (maybe increase surface agitation with filter outlet), & the problem resolves.....just my experience !
Is it a known mod for these to drill in bigger holes in the pipe in the prefliter and fit the orange sponges instead of the blue ones that come with the filter?
It is but since I made this video a few years back I’ve found out drilling holes in the pipe actually makes no difference, the power of the pump is all that affects flow (besides clogged filter media).
As long as a pump can run to its maximum output, offering less resistance on the feed will not increase pump capacity.
But what if you fit in orange sponges instead of the blue ones?
Should you drill bigger holes or there is no benetif in doing so, just leave it like it is?
@@slinkyscapes8530
How do you open the pre filter side without it spilling everytime I pop open the pre filter I get spillage
If you open the slider too fast water will come out, the pressure in the housing is low but enough to push water out as it lets air in.
I open it slowly until I hear a slight hissing noise then leave it for 10 seconds or so before fully opening
Nice one Dazza 💪
Thanks John 🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻
Very good video
Thanks Bill 🤙🏻
Can anyone help me, when I reattach and lock the hose attachments in water starts gushing out of the whole pump. I’ve made sure both the canister and hose attachments are locked in but no help
Could be incorrectly fitted media trays.
Is the water coming out of the pump head to canister body?, if so, media trays not slotted together stops a good seal, other than that the seal ring may be damaged.
👍👍👍
Whenever I clean the prefilter and restart the filter, dirty water starts gushing out of the outflow for a few seconds. Can anyone pls explain why is this happening?
It can be detritus in the pipes, that initial rush of water can stir up what’s inside those pies and in the main canister.
Detritus in the pipes looks more like flakes of dirt as opposed to dirty water but think about it, if your tank water is clean the only place dirty water can come from is the filter so check there first.
Another thing to try is once you think the pre filter sponges are clean, put some clean water in a container and squeeze the pre filter sponges one last time.
mine has constantly getting trapped air inside. how do you fix that?
You have to locate where the air is entering.
Any air entering AFTER the intake/outflow will be apparent with water leaking out once the filter is unplugged as gravity puts a slight pressure on the filter housing.
If there is no water leaking from the filter itself then the only place air can enter is from the intake, what equipment are you using for the intake/outflow ? Standard Oase ? Something else ?
@@slinkyscapes8530 lily pipe inflow and outflow
@@makivillanueva8951 if you can, use a standard one piece intake/outflow like the ones from Eheim where there’s no chance of air entering due to them being made from one single piece.
The stock ones supplied by Oase just aren’t up to the job and most of the air entering a filter problems I’ve seen are from that part as they slide together.
Your version of lily pipe can introduce air via the surface skimmer, if the slots at the bottom of the intake get clogged then pressure naturally pulls the surface skimmer down and draws air in.
Aquario have introduced a very clever design of surface skimmer that eliminates this problem.
What ppi sponge u will recommend for pre filter?
The finer the sponge the more regular cleaning of the pre-filter you’ll have to do but that lowers the maintenance of the actual canister.
I run the orange (30ppi) sponges on start up and for roughly 3 months as I place filter floss in the canister.
After 3 months I remove the floss and run the blue (45ppi) or even the black carbon impregnated (60ppi) sponges as once a tank is mature I only want to enter the main canister 2/3 times a year.
Price?
Rude!
love Oase biomaster ...but it's a little expensive..
They are and now you can buy inline heaters that takes away one of the 3 top stand out pro’s for the Biomaster.
Saying that it’s the innovation and quality your paying for as most filters don’t have everything covered in one box.
@@slinkyscapes8530 yes thnk u .....XD
love Oase biomaster but it's too expensive
The price .....I almost can buy two fluval canster filter
If you know of a fluval canister that offers all the features an Oase does I’ll buy one to review 🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻
Oase Biomaster after 1.5 years, flooded my house at night, the product is still absolutely damp, only the plastic in it is good. Got rid of it, I use eheim again.
What, a hose came off?
Use it properly, you don’t explain what happened, so probably user error.