The Savile Row Drape Cut - Part 1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 พ.ย. 2020
- Savile Row tailor,Tom Mahon talks about the different styles of classic Savile Row tailoring. Including the Anderson & Sheppard, English drape cut. Examining coats that he has cut over his 30+ year career and how tailoring house styles differ.
- แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Stewart has stayed fit to keep wearing the same suits after 25+ years. Well done, Stewart!
Tom’s skills are amazing. ❤️❤️❤️
What a client - tailor relationship. 30 odd years. Brilliant
Mr. Palmer said it best: He gets just as much pleasure today from wearing a coat cut nearly 30 years ago. I get the same pleasure from seeing these exceptional well-aged garments. This is a masterclass in exceptional tailoring that stands the test of time.
While not a Saville Row suit maker, my grandfather owned a textile factory and was also the head of design for the company. I used to love looking through his old design books and the different styles of dresses and suits and uniforms he would draw up. Being a genuine bespoke tailor is kind of a special dream of mine.
Dream your dream.
Thanks for this. By far the best explanation of drape that I've come across. The explanation of how drape impacts the cleaness of the cut is superbly explained for an interested lay person.
Thank you! Just the tip of the iceberg but delighted it's given a little clarity.
Absolutely fantastic. Long live the Drape Cut! -Chris
Couldn't agree more Chris.
I agree with both statements from Stewart and Tom. All of those coats where beautifully Tailored. I believe when you capture durability and comfort that one can’t ask for more. It’s a pleasure to see such amazing work. Thank you for bringing it to us.
The suit looks immaculate. One day I'd like to own a Savile Row suit.
*OH MY GOD* this is so interesting.
3 years ago I started making historical suits 1900 to 1930 and my fave book is J P Thornton's sectional drafting manual. His sleaves and backs are JUST like this and the lower part of the arm pattern is just a straight line - there is nearly 3" of excess to shove into that armhole. It looks just like this i.e. NOT GOOD but OMG is it comfortable - and its a 50/50 arm seam with a banana shaped sleave just like that...
Wow! Greetings from China. I've never seen such in-depth video explainning the beauty and magic of the drape cut. It is such shame that suit lovers nowadays would ask their tailors to make suit as clean as possible, looks good outside but results in lack of arm movements and comfort. I bought a cesare attolini suit few years back, and it is so comfortable! I think the magic behind is what you said in the video, a small armohole and excessive fabrics in the big sleeve!
There are a lot of point form videos on how a jacket should fit, but this puts them all to shame. Thank you so much for making this available to those of us who may never have a bespoke jacket made, but who are curious to learn more about the artistry and practicality of it all.
I’m enthralled with that cut! It addresses the exact issues I’ve had with jackets and likewise explains why some jackets just fit right for me. Splendid, just first rate information. When I’m in London this September I will definitely stop in to discuss a possible jacket or suit.
I love it. It’s the right way to make a coat
Thank you for your generous, informative videos. Thanks, Stewart, for modeling.
My pleasure!
I thoroughly enjoyed this and found your comments on comfort vs cleanliness/looking good particularly interesting. I've been lucky enough to commission a modest number of bespoke sports coats over time and have pretty much come to a similar conclusion - there is a compromise between achieving a clean/sharp look and how comfortable the coat will be to wear. A bespoke coat is never going to be as comfortable as a wool cardigan but a wool cardigan will also never give you the (hopefully) beautifully sculpted 3 dimensional appearance a bespoke coat will.
I've been following your blog on and off for over ten years now and have always enjoyed your articles and anecdotes. I look for forward to more content!
Thank you Jason. What a privilege bespoke is! Have a lovely Christmas, Best, Tom.
Refreshing to know that common sense and practicality still hold sway in some quarters. The 'fashion' suits that most are pushing with the Pitti Oumo, too-small too-tight 'fit' are a travesty. Guys look like they are still wearing their confirmation suit that was made for them in their teens!
Love the lapel "belly" on Tom's DB blazer. Great point about enjoying the same garments, then and now.
Thank you!
Thank you so so much!!!! This is exactly what I want to know about drape cut!
Thank you for making this video. I’ve had a couple bespoke suits made but am still very new to this world. During the fittings, I must have heard the word “drape” 15 times. Was always too embarrassed to ask what ‘drape’ meant. Now I have a much better idea.
We're glad that our video helped translate a little of the tailoring lingo. Do speak up when you next go to your tailor - we're pretty sure that they'll be happy to explain all the unknowns to you. If you find yourself still struggling do reach out to our team (hello@redmayne1860.com) and we'll be happy to help - Who knows you may even inspire our next TH-cam video!
Great video. Lovely Sports coat,very stylish. I particularly like the over- stitching at the top of the rear vents!
Great information. Thank you for putting this out. “Form versus function”-need a balance.
I'm only a MTM specialist but I always tell my younger customers that they need that drape in the back to actually move, raise a toast, give a high five, etc. They mistakenly think a close-fitting suit should be shrink wrapped to their back. Even a close fitting suit needs ease in the right places to look and FEEL good. I also almost always raise the armholes on the pattern base and my customers have only complained once or twice, but I think only then because they're not used to feeling the armhole.
Smart work and thank you for watching. Best, Tom.
These coats are perfect. They have a presence but don't shout in the face. Soft comfortable fit makes it clear that Stewart is the centre of attention and not the garments. All the trade offs are in the right balance.
Drape cut. Inspired the whole neapolitan cut.
Love the clock sound!
Keeps us calm! Best,
Tom.
Great video Thank you
Great video, thank you very much
Too kind :)
WOW BEAUTIFUL JACKETS!
I'm sure Mr Palmer will be delighted to read that. Thank you for your kind comment and for watching.
Im with you both that one 😍 but im old fashioned, qnd what fantastic condition they are in. Stuart is a good sport.
Finally a thorough explanation of the drape cut, well done sirs.
Myself don't just like the drape cut, I love it. Now even more understanding how benefits the range of movement, as myself really bothered by coats which feel more for a insanity hospital then for a restaurant. Now learning the craft and my shape, have wondered if this is due to larger than average biceps and a broad, sturdy, upper back. Mind me asking if the drape cut is a benefit to those with broad backs?
Thanks and Happy Christmas.
Thank you and good luck with everything..You never stop learning.
Hi I have a question regarding suit color choice. Should we only wear light colored suit in the morning and dark for the evening? or is there a color that can be good for both. Please guide me on this. Thanks
Thank you very much indeed🏅
Our pleasure, thank you for watching.
I want this!
I love it .
That second double breasted jacket is fabulous. Fits superbly.
Leant a great deal ! Thanks a lot!
Delighted to hear.
Best, Tom
I just love it. That is what it means craftsmanship and bespoke. I am so sad I can't come and train. I am 48 years old but sewing as hobby for last 35 years. Now in school to learn pattern making and tailoring. Just love what you are doing. Now comes my question. What would be your recommendation for a sleeve ease to keep comfort for a customer ? Thank you a lot.
Sorry, there's more to that than I can answer here. Good luck and keep up the hard work. Best,
Tom.
To me this seems to be old age discussion of how much wearing ease is to be included in a garment without detriment to overall finished look. So if you want comfort and ease you are likely to have a less clean look. It's about finding a balance that you are happy with. Curious as to why the phrase 'drape' is used in tailoring as there is little draping involved.
soft power..
Stewart, a good sport
How many suits in rotation to make them last 20-30 years?
A lot ;)
I like it!
What about the full chest? How do you achieve that effect?
Keep watching ;)
Man, that last blazer! Just beautiful!
Would it be alright if I sent you a personal message to pick your brain on some fit issues that are stumping me?
My first suit, made here by a tailor in Delhi has been somewhat damaged by the laundry people. They ironed the lapel!! Spoiled the look totally!!! Please advise how to fix it!
Is the microphone next to a ticking clock?
We just have a loud clock! Thanks for watching.
How much for your bespoke suit ? Also do I have to come to England to get one or do you travel ?
Dear Sir,
Our prices can be found here - redmayne1860.com/pages/bespoke. We do travel it depends where you are based? Thanks for watching. Best,
Tom.
كيف التواصل معك والعمل من العراق
I'm Taylor from Ghana and want to learn more from you,
Id love for this guy to teach me
We'd drink too much! Thank you anyway, Best,
Tom.
1:27 (he said knowingly with a twinkle in his eye)
ikr 😅 he remembers her very well....
That’s the loudest clock I’ve ever heard!
Sounds good though ;) Best, Tom.
Poor Stuart 🤣🤣🤣
Yeah feel a little bad for him having to play the role of a walking mannequin
You sound like Tyson Fury for real
Hmmm...Thanks for watching, I've met him and didn't notice but I suppose you don't hear your own voice.
*APPROXIMATELY £160 A YEAR* those suits - assuming £5,000 over 30 years
£3 a week for a bespoke Savile Row suit. Less than 1 coffee a week
But you need a few to rotate them. If you wore the same suit all the time it wouldn't last as well as Stewart's.
@@DavidS-iy8bb - This is very true.
mad respect to AS craftsmanship but that straight Anderson line and the closed quarters, it looks a bit too old school for today, it's just too dressy and too 90's for the current world but AS seems to have realized that too and gone for a more Neapolitan vibe lately.
Somebody left the indicator on. Very annoying!
So sorry but that is the company's antique clock ticking. We don't have the heart to stop it.
@@savilerowtales I was simply being glib. Glad to hear the clock is still in fine fettle. May it tick (uninterrupted) until ‘Kingdom Come’!
I am a good coat cutting master .. please give me a job
Wrong with never buttoning the bottom one. With DB you button all of them if you are formally representing. Rest of the situations you can button it whichever way you like, even open.
they really do get a bit high on themselves when talking about Saville Row.. it is just a street. You are not saving lives, just making cloths.
Sleev is not well
I had the good fortune of picking up a jacket made around 1900, and the fineness of the work was what convinced me to purchase a jacket so far out of style that I could not possibly wear it on any day other than Halloween. And like what this video suggests about the tailoring customs of former times, the arm holes are small.