Avoid This VERY Common AC Issue To Save Hundreds and Enjoy Colder Air!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ต.ค. 2024
- In this video, we will discuss a VERY common AC issue that gets ignored WAY too much! I will also show you how to address it by installing new insulation on the AC lines. And I will also be installing the Airex Titan Outlet which will not only make this install look great but it will also seal everything up and keep our AC line insulation from going bad again!
🧰 Products In The Video 🧰
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3/4" Rubber Pipe Insulation (Pre Slit): amzn.to/4ckZk0D
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Lineset Tape: amzn.to/45rnxjN
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3/4" Airex E Flex Guard Only: amzn.to/4b23Os3
Other Sizes Not Listed Found Here: www.supplyhous...
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Klein Flickblade Utility Knife: amzn.to/3VFtGWa
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Be honest, have you ever checked your AC line insulation? Most Haven't. This could be costing you a lot of money and not letting your unit blow as cold as possible!
I live in an Arizona desert. I've had my 2 mini splits for 2 years this month. The sun UV radiation is brutal here. The outer tape is crumbling away. You won't realize how dry and brittle the tape and insulation can get if it's in the sunlight most the time. The next 2 months will be around 100 deg. Every day. I run at least one unit all day. We're off-grid so our electricity is free.
Well, you got me to looking. I went out to look at my shop's split system. They encased all the refrigerant and return lines and electric lines in conduit and a box sealed to the foundation. I think the pro's did a good job.
I clean and check mine twice a year and have replaced with the proper insulation. I also have a professional winterize and summerize each year. Good video most people never check.
Dang, this is so helpful! Thank you...
When I moved into my house about 12 years ago I bought very thick Armaflex (maybe 1") and insulated the suction line outside of my house (inside lineset already done). Even did between the compressor and coil. Hopefully worthwhile. Who knows though.
Over many years I have seen many AC installed. I have never seen all this protection that you had put on which to me makes sense. I am 76 years old and when we have a new AC installed, never do they put their protection on and yes, we’ve always had leaks, so thank you very much for showing this on your TH-cam. It makes sense everything you did. It makes sense and every time they come to check my AC they find something wrong or right around wires or something. The coils from the inside of the house to the outside. I believe they do this on purpose because they want your AC to rot.
I use a jumbo pool noodle, split it and zip tie it. Once it’s in place, I coat it with elastomeric roof coating and seam tape. After it dries, I paint it house color. I do the same with exposed plumbing (Arizona). It lasts the life of the AC unit, with a fresh coat of paint when the house gets painted.
you, sir are a gentleman and a scholar
That sir sounds just Janky enough to be genius. I'll be putting that to use.
I fucking KNEW I'd find something way smarter and less expensive than the shit this guy is shoveling. Thanks homie, you're a real one.
Newbie here, what kind of seam tape?
@@Tracy-mom it’s a fabric that’s used with the elastomeric roof coating. Seam tape probably wasn’t the right descriptor. It is a polyester fabric that reinforces the elastomeric coating. If you search for Henry 296, it will show the product. Henry is just one manufacturer.
I've checked my line before and I found it to be in terrible shape. I had no idea it was supposed to be changed, or replaced with newer insulation. You live and learn. Thanks for the video.
Makes no difference. Hvac technician of 15+ years
I replace mine every 15 to 20 years, you know, when the unit gives up the ghost and needs to be replaced.
Cheaper and better method is to just replace the foam, then wrap with the UV tape in a shingled pattern, start from the lower end and work your way up to the higher/ house end, cutting strips long enough to wrap around the foam. What I mean by shingled is to overlap in such a way so that water will naturally run off thr tape to the next piece of tape and not down inside the tape and rot out the foam. Once thats done use a piece of tape or three to secure the loose smaller wires and tubing to the main line, just so things aren't flopping around and get caught when you're cleaning up leaves or whatever near thr AC unit. Once thats all done seal your house hole with caulking or stuff some fiberglass cloth and/or plumbers putty into the hole to fill yhr large gaps, and caulk over the top. They also make AC line caulk that's made for high temps of the hot side line. Total cost is around $30 for everything.
LOL, that plastic retrofit outlet is freakin almost $300!!! You kidding me? It's just plastic with a rubber gasket, hard pass.
Far easier & cheaper to simply replace the the rubber cover every few years.
Yeah I'd rather replace the spray foam every other year
@@BasedBidoofJust use the rubberized insulation and wrap it in foil tape. If you go to the supply house, they sell a white version of the insulation that is much more durable too.
I've had to do similar to my unit in Australia, The foam insulation I used was not split, I just ran a blade down it to open it, then once over the pipe I used super glue to re-close it. As the outer protection I used adhesive backed Aluminum flashing tape, wrapping it around for the length of the piping. I did this several years ago and it still looks as good as the day I did it.
One of the very few channels where you get into the video immediately without the nonsense and delays. Thank you!!! Keep it going!!!
Really glad to hear you liked it! I really do try to be balanced and get as much important information in as possible without it being too long. You should see how much I end up cutting out that is good information that many would like but not completely necessary. Thanks for taking the time to leave that feedback!
Amen. Right to the point. No intros and music. Perfect.
Good video! Mine runs high, and I keep it covered from the sun. Any gain you might get from leaving it uncovered is dwarfed by any sun shining on it. I used an exterior dryer vent to keep the birds from picking a hole into the house, then cut a grommet to get over the whole shebang; secured with a large hose clamp to receive/buck the flashing under the dryer vent cover to close the rest of the hole. I wrapped a space blanket over that, but it shredded after one season. Reflective window flashing lasted longer. I liked the idea of the pool noodle and elastomeric coating, and will give that a whirl next time.
I'm an HVAC tech and this is one of those things I write up for customers as a deficiency and then tell them how to fix it themselves so I don't have to charge them way more for it. Unless they don't want to, and some don't, I'm happy to help.
Thanks for being an honest repair guy. Too many people out there would be happy to charge an arm & a leg for a simple fix.
@sodman1987 wrong
I have been in the plumbing and mechanical industry for over 40yrs. The large line for air conditioning is the suction line the small line is the high pressure line. The reason the large line is condensing is because how the Freon works. The suction line does not bring cold to the exchanger coil in the home. It’s returning what they call hot gas to the compressor in the condenser. The high pressure line is returning liquid Freon to the exchanger cold when the liquid hits the coil there is a metering valve that only allows a very small amount of liquid thru it. As it sprays into the coil the liquid turns to gas at this moment when it goes to gas it gets cold because it’s absorbing the heat. Until it changes back to liquid in the condenser coil it is cold. The reason the line is insulated is to prevent damage from condensation and try to control the amount of heat it is absorbing nothing more. This is why both lines should be insulated on heat pump systems because they work in reverse when producing heat.
So is this worth the hassle and price?
RIght! Keep both lines insulated, but use a basic, good insulator, not a $300 product that will never repay the investment.
@steveb9487 I basically said that. When did I say the outlet is required? I numerous times said it wasn’t.
@@HowToHomeDIYcorrect I understood that doing the insulation foam was sufficient and most stop there but you chose to go the extra mile never you said it was required nor did feel it was implied.. btw! Where is the link for the uv resistant bag cover?
@@HowToHomeDIYcorrect I understood that doing the insulation foam was sufficient and most stop there but you chose to go the extra mile never you said it was required nor did feel it was implied.. btw! Where is the link for the uv resistant bag cover?
E-FLEX GUARD Black Line Set Cover is what my contractor used for the UV protection now required by code.
After watching this video, and noting that the outside temp here in Texas is presently 106F, I went & checked the insulation on my outdoor A/C unit. It was falling apart, most of the pipe was bare! Now I've got the tubing & tape on order, and it'll be here soon. Thanks so much for this very informative video!
Wow! 😮I checked my line after watching this and it was in identical condition as your example. Fixing it tomorrow.
Really glad to hear you liked it! I think it is more prevalent than people think! Thanks for taking the time to leave that feedback!
Mine is in same condition. Would a pool noodle work? I'll probably go to Home Depot to find the correct insulation
And you'll notice it make 0 difference on cooling or your bill....understanding the science and how acs work help...
In addition to the ridiculous and insulting price, it baffles me that the color of the wrap is black. I would think it is much smarter to have a reflective light gray rather than a heat absorbing black.
$70 is ridiculous for a poly 4' hose wrap. You can get a 3" white UV resistant duct tape for $15. LOL
@MrJHSW that certainly is an option. But to compare the two as though they are equals I think is a little unfair.
@HowToHomeDIY how about wrapping the black insulation with some reflective tape ?
Agreed. As a final step I wrapped my (long) line set in metal tape. The shiny metal tape used for ducting. It has held up perfectly, much to my surprise. It’s been about 14 years now.
I used the thickest soft foam pipe insulation I could conveniently find, and manually spiral-wrapped it with "foil" tape. Besides being reflective, it blocks UV damage of the underlying foam.
In Florida, many installers use a UV protection white paint over the black insulated cover instead of another black cover
UV resistant pipe insulation is available with the cover bonded in place. I used a roof jack for a cover that looks ok for the outlet.
I've replaced the insulation on a few units I've had over the years. Easy job, but did not know about this outlet. Great job, great explanation, thank you for the information.
This came into my recommended list right on time. I literally just noticed my line insulation was in worse condition than yours and was trying to figure out how I was going to fix it this weekend. Thanks for sharing this quick video.
I am a widow woman, I watch your channel alot, big help to a old widow, that lives in very rural, not many choices hiring folks, they take advantage of old widow woman, sadly to say ❤
I am very sorry to hear about people trying to take advantage of you. Unfortunately it is not as uncommon as it should be. I am so glad to hear you are finding value in the channel. Thank you very much for taking the time to leave this feedback!
@@HowToHomeDIY Thank you , putting the lessons, teaching out there, for widow woman like me, that had a wonderful husband, that God called home, HE always took care of so much on our farm, Jack of trades he was, rarely hired anyone, HE didn't have time to teach me before he cross the veil, have even learn to use his big stihl chain saw, I know he is saying NO NO NO in heaven, but I want to able to take care of myself alone , I live very rural, way off the main road. Days I don't see a soul , YES your channel has helped me alot , a light switch, & more Thanks again for time, Teaching Amen ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
Good deal. I never saw this type of line protection, and have never been recommended to me by any a/c company during seasonal services
The larger copper line running from the house to the outdoor unit is carrying refrigerant vapor BACK to the compressor. It's already done it's job of cooling the indoor air so adding more insulation to it will NOT give colder air. The primary reason it's insulated is to prevent condensate from forming on it's surface and dripping all over everything. Won't hurt anything to add extra insulation but doing so will not improve efficiency or provide cooler air.
This 👆
The suction line carries already cool refrigerant back to the compressor. Once it gets compressed again it will get hot so the cooler you can keep it before it gets to the compressor, the better. The condenser will do slightly less work cooling it back down before going back to the evaporator.
@@codycarr9087 True (to an extent), but the effect is so small on the COP it's barely noticeable, if at all, unless the lineset is incredibly long, running through a super hot attic adding way more superheat than already exists from the evaporator - exceeding design day conditions. Heat is always being added to the incoming vapor anyway since it's used to keep the compressor motor windings cool. A little bit more, picked up by the environment along the way, doesn't matter as long as the liquid leaving the condenser is properly subcooled. My point being, a few spots of exposed suction line on the outside of the house will NOT make any measurable difference on efficiency nor improve evaporator indoor air temperature differential.
@supermarioisacat I guess that makes sense. I live in Texas and quite a bit of my lineset is in the hot attic so anything I can do at all to maximize efficiency is worth it to me. I like my house to be like a walk-in freezer. But you're right, I'd be less concerned about the couple of feet of outdoor line and more worried about maintaining the insulation on the lines in the attic.
@@supermarioisacat This👆 - if it was so important the lines inside the outdoor unit would insulated especially the giant accumulator
Thanks for the video. I just ran outside in the dark. Yep my insulation needs replacing. Thanks.
Me too!
Really glad to hear you liked it! I think it is more prevalent than people think! Thanks for taking the time to leave that feedback!
Me too...
Lol just checked mine. I'm in 100 year old house that only has central air upstairs. That freon line runs all the way up the side of my house to the attic which holds the air handler. Ugh, thus should be fun.
@@tilleryinnovations592 Sounds like it will make more of a difference if it runs all the way down your house! Good luck with your fix.
$300 for that Atlas Titan Outlet cover!!?? That's crazy expensive. Way too expensive.
There is another kit that cost $150.
No guesses as to why you don't see these too often. I'd pay $65 for this molded piece of plastic, thats' about my limit.
Yeah, that's a big NO for me as well. $300 is just way too much.
It’s insane.
That's the most ridiculous piece of kit I have ever seen. I'm sure someone makes a escutcheon/flange similar to what you see around your shower head wall penetration that comes in two pieces. If not let's start a company to make some!
An enormous help for me on replacing corroded pipe insulation. I'm not sold on the Flex Guard, but I'll do a temp check before purchasing. Thank you! I'm sure this saves me hundreds of $.
hvac service tech for almost 30 years. this does not help efficiency whatsoever. it just looks nicer. youd benefit much more from making sure your coils are clean. refrigerant charge is correct. filter clean. all the insulation does is prevent the suction line from sweating inside the house.
No that’s not all it does. It absolutely can affect efficiency. But you are right that cleaning the coils, changing the filter, and making sure the unit is charged correctly helps a lot!
@@HowToHomeDIYyea I’m sure a TH-camr knows more than a 30 year tech…
@neilmurphy4301 as someone that spent a lot of time in construction I learned just because someone has a lot of years it does not always equate to knowledge. I have numerous stories I could share. Also, it’s TH-cam, in another video he may be a 30 year plumber. Not saying that’s the case but I stand by what I said about the lines. Feel free to research it. Plenty of documentation on what I’m saying.
@@neilmurphy4301 Some U tubers are also techs!
@@HowToHomeDIY The insulation is on the large pipe returning from the home the temp of this pipe is irrelevant to system operation. The only thing it could do is cool the motor winding insider the compressor but it has zero effect on the high temp pressure vapor leaving the compressor. The insulation is useful inside the wall cavities of the home in that it keep the pipe dry preventing mold and water damage.
Thank you for this video. Sure enough the exact situation I encountered. Did the new stuff and noticed almost instantly the air coming out was cooler. Amazing the simple little things we can actually do to keep these old systems just chunging along.
I used the same foam rubber split insulation and the same uv tape. I differed and wrapped the entire foam with the uv tape and called it good. Did the same method for my backflow preventer. The uv tape lasts about 3-4 years before it begins to deteriorate, whereas the foam by itself only lasts a year or so. I'm in Florida so it gets cooked everyday. Whether it is a benefit, don't care. It looks nice. The two times a year I get s freeze, my backflow pipes are good. Most of my neighbors put a plastic covered rock over theirs.
That’s the line that goes back to the compressor. The refrigerant in it has already been evaporated and absorbed heat from the evaporator. That foam is only purpose is to keep condensation from forming and making a mess.
It can still absorb more heat. Preventing this makes your unit more efficient.
XHickoryx you're right. It's thermodynamics. One can think of the cold line as an extension of the evaporator coils, as it contains the refrigerant that has just left the evaporator coils. If the line is not insulated, the remaining cold in that line ends up in the attic or outdoors as it travels back to the outside unit. Thereby, you're cooling the outdoors. Adding insulation reduces this.
No, it’s more heat gain going back to the compressor that changes the pressures. It also cools the compressor. So if you don’t care about premature compressor replacement then do nothing. His price is ridiculous. Just go to a local HVAC store and get new and take the few minutes to replace it. There’s a reason it is on there in the first place. If you have a heat pump, the liquid line ( the smaller one) should be insulated also.
@schaefer692002 I agree with you on most of it. But I don’t have a price. I said numerous times in the video that the Titan Outlet was not necessary for the repair.
How is it that your recommendations come at the right time?! I checked our line to see the status of the insulation. Of course, it was in poor condition. I went ahead and replaced it with the rubber insulation and used the tape that you referred to, and added silicone sealant around the connection to the interior. Timing is everything, especially with this heat wave in the Midwest. Thanks again for the great tips. I always look forward to your videos.
Thanks for the video! I've been meaning to replace my insulation for longer than I'll admit, and this was a great reminder. I clicked the appropriate link in the description and got my order placed.
Miami fl hvac tech with 20 years experience here.
As far as the fitting that goes on The wall goes ive seen similar products before. They can be a nice way to make an ugly looking hole in the exterior wall look better and provide additional rain and insect resistance.
However, the black sheeting to cover the refrigerant lines seems like an unnecessary (and ugly) gimmick.
The standard (by code) is to just coat the insulation ( I also coat the brown thermostat line cuz ive seen them degrade to the point where the bare copper wires are exposed) with a weather/ UV barrier paint. The paint is white so if anything it might help keep the lines from heating up in the sun.
Appreciate that feedback Warren!
Would you share the name brand of the paint you use?
Your video is awesome I’m not a real mister fix it guy but I try and I used your video to reference myself on how I did it once before I changed the capacitor in less than 30 minutes . Saved big money. Appreciate the knowledge
I just used a piece of rubber/plastic roof pipe flashing on my line lineset coming out of the house. Slid it under the siding and caulked accordingly. Works like a champ for about $10
Looks great but a couple tips, 1 silicone is not printable so that will be a issue if you want to paint in the future. 2 don't caulk the bottom so that if and when the top caulking fails there is a way for water to fall out.
That conductor you taped to the insulation. You know, critters just love chewing on insulation. I had a rodent chew the insulation outside, shorting and ruining the 24 VDC Transformer in the attic. It was a Holiday Weekend! I called my AC Tech, he said, " Man, I'm sitting in the backyard drinking a beer, I'd hate to have to come over and charge you the Holiday Rate. I mentioned I had a VOM, he perked up and said, "We can fix this." We did. I ran to Home Depot, bought a transformer and he walked me through it. Since then, I always have encapsulated that conductor in automotive wire loom sheathing. I mailed my AC Tech a check for a service call just to say "Thanks!"
I put my thermostat wire in small white pex tubing. It is inexpensive at the orange box
Classy act on your part to $end him some $'s.... 👍😎
Wtf is vom?
@@mreega4812 Very Ominous Moment. Nah I dunno.
@@mreega4812 VOM Stands for Volt Ohm Meter - Used by technicians to measure voltage, current, and resistance in electrical circuits to troubleshoot them.
There is a newer style of pipe insulation, similar to the standard Armaflex you used in this video, called K-Flex Titan. It has a coated UV resistant exterior, is tear resistant and can also be painted. Just thought I'd mention it in case anyone would be interested in it.
The Las Vegas sun does the same to the insulation on the wires. If you can mount the wire(s) on the underside of the 3/4" insulation to keep it out of the direct sunlight.. that would be good. Of course only if you don't use the UV protective sleeve.
The black sleeve is required for UV protection in many counties in the Northern Virginia area.
That is correct. County inspectors will fail an inspection if the outside new lines don't have the UV protection shroud. Required in Prince William, Loudoun and Arlington counties, and will be required in Fairfax as well in the future.
I forgot to mention in my last comment. Everything he did as far as picking the right products for the job and installing them was 100% on point. You guys with your pool noodles, rock on! It works and gets the job done! However for a professional and most effective solution, this is a good video to follow.
I would say it’s more an eye sore the old deteriorating armaflex rather than a cost issue. Sleeving a few feet on the exterior, won’t make a difference in the electric bill.
Yes it will.
Thank you for this video! Seeing this myself at my home, even from a layman‘s perspective, it has bothered me to see it. I’ve asked HVAC professionals occasionally if the y happen to be at my house if the exposures I was seeing were OK and they said “don’t worry.” 😑 Thanks to your video though, I get to take care of it myself and can’t wait to try! I had a feeling that it was right to want to not leave it degraded.
Question on the insulation type/size: I see that you have the 3/4” and 1 1/2” listed on your description. Which should I use? Is it just a matter of preference?
Thanks again!
Question: Why is the UV cover black? Would it not be better to be white or reflective (silver)? Might we want to consider covering this outer black sleave with something like reflective tape? Just asking.
Yes it should be. It's code now to have uv rated wrap now
Great question!
If you buy the white version of this cover you get a white sleeve.
@@daveschmidt4504 "code" is only specific to your county or city. "code" is just specific bylaws and regulations regarding safety per city. One city has no code for disconnect where one next door has the opposite. I am a licensed contractor in a major metropolitan city.
@@Dontbeweakvato Most localities get their codes from standards developed and/or endorsed by the International Code Council (UBC is a legacy code). I am a licensed contractor in a small-ish metropolitan city. You win. You can reach further than me anyway. Different plumbing.
@@JillofAllTrades2 Wow. Who hurt you? 🤣🤣🤣
So my question is, if keeping heat out of the line is important, why would the insulation be black which absorbs sun and heat? Why not use white or reflective to bounce the sun and heat away?
Very helpful - all the maintenance and upkeep of homeownership, this one is easy yet important to energy efficiency. Thanks for the tips.
You are very welcome! Really glad to hear you liked it! I think it is more prevalent than people think! Thanks for taking the time to leave that feedback!
Nice now put all of that in the attic....lol 110 deg here in summer and attic can get to 120. In Arizona i just do not understand why they mount blower units in a attic that's hotter than it is outside.
Great video and great information! The current price for the Airex Titan and line protector is $295.00. That’s expensive for this material! IMHO, it really should be around $100.
Totally understand. Just wanted to show something I thought was interesting to add to the video. Appreciate the feedback!
I was thinking it'd be $50-60 - not an eye-popping $295! I think I can jerry-rig something that works for a fraction of the cost.
He gets it free..thanks but no thanks during this inflation
I've actually replaced the foam stuff a couple times, but it just keeps "melting away" (seems like). So having just started the video, I'm hoping it will show me something new I can do, as it's time again. (I see from the comments that some additional foil tape may be in order, so I will give that a shot as well.)
I just replaced my insulation and yes it was bad, thanx. But there is a lot more exposed copper tubing running up into the compressor. More than from compressor to house. Should I remove the fan and insulate that pipe too? I have 6 feet left over.
Mine is the same way. Half the exposed pipe is inside the compressor and it does not have any insulation and doesn't look like it ever had any. The section outside the compressor is about 80% gone! I have a service contract and they have never mentioned this. Usually if there is anyway for them to charge me money, they will recommend it.
@@wcellonit’s because what this guy is telling you isn’t correct. It’s a code requirement to be insulated all the way to unit and that’s to stop that line from condensating. The difference from what he did in this video would be unmeasurable unless using sensitive lab equipment. I don’t usually bring it up to customers either because we charge a lot for it and I know the only thing they are getting out of it is cosmetic and code adherence if getting an inspection. You could remove all the insulation from all of your line set and it would cool the same. I’d be able to measure that difference but you wouldn’t feel it inside. I’ve gone to buildings where it was all exposed in the 140 degree attic. Reason for the call was just water leaking because it was dripping so much. It was 70 in the offices at 99 outside
@@Rgrinkleson I have walked from the hot humid outside into a building where it was about 70 and it felt like a shock until I got used to it. Those commercial units can maintain 30 degree difference from outside to inside I thought. Residential is only about 20.
@@Chris2745100 office was using a residential unit. You can cool much better than 20 with better building and insulation. A spray foamed house from ground up with an 18 seer variable speed compressor can make the inside 60 degrees and 45% humidity while it’s 100 out and 90% humidity at 74 dew point. How well your system cools the house relative to outdoor temp largely depends on unit being in best condition it can be in and the space being cooled having proper insulation
I do have a question we're sealing all that stuff up where it goes into the wall and eventually into the attic where it sees all that hot air before it gets connected to the exchange unit in the attic, shouldn't all that be insulated too?
Yes it definitely should be, for multiple reasons.
To finish off the insulation I always wrap the insulation with aluminum roof flashing so protect it and low voltage line from wx and dogs
Especially here in the South (Houston) in the summer, anything black, WILL absorb heat in the sun...once I replaced my rubber foam insulation, I additionally wrapped it with a bubble foil reflective insulation and sealed it with aluminum tape, I noticed the difference.....once fall/winter comes with cooler weather, planning on continuing the insulation method in the attic to the main unit since I know that rubber pipe insulation hasn't been replaced since the build of the house
I really appreciate the work you put into your videos.
Thank you so much Scott! I really do appreciate that. I am glad you have found value in the videos on the channel. Really means a lot. Thanks again for taking the time to leave this feedback! Hope to see ya around!
Ÿa, good work!
but, but, but...I see where some efficiency might be gained, but I thought that insulation was simply to minimize sweating on that return line. That returning gas still has to run through the compressor anyhow, where it will be reconsolidated into a liquid. How much heat gain really happens in 4 or 5 feet of exposed line? BTW I'll be ordering one of those line set outlets THANKS
Just replaced my line insulation last year. It definitely needed it!
Didn't know there was a special cover box and sleeve available.
Will definitely look into that.
Nice work/content👍
I appreciate the full disclosure and transparency in your explanations. Because this video wasn't a hard sell, I'm more inclined to purchase this product. Trustworthiness was conveyed throughout this presentation. Thank you!
the description of the item on amazon says that it improves air quality and reduces allergens 😂
This $300 cover box and UV wrap is severe overkill. The new armaflex on the big (vapor) line and for about $5 a plastic dryer vent termination cover is really all that's needed.
and the video claims you'll save "hundreds". More like spend hundreds and turn an old installation into an eyesore. I bet the savings from that insulation doesn't even move the needle on the power bill.
@brent57 guy, I said the outlet was optional. The main purpose is the insulation repair which is $10-$20. Yes, it definitely can save hundreds especially over the long term in power consumption and keeping the compressor from failing early due to having to with harder. But you do you.
@@HowToHomeDIY I'd be interested to see any case studies or documents to show the savings or reduced wear and tear you claim. Even your failing insulation provided some original intended benefits. Sorry you're constantly defending your position in the comments. But showing proof such as using a amp meter before/after would go a long way.
Does it matter if the wire is on the inside of the insulation next to the copper pipe? I did that by mistake. I wasn’t sure if I should redo it. Thanks
There's a much cheaper option I've used for years to protect the insulation. Take 4-inch corrugated drain pipe, split it from end to end and slip it over the insulated pipe.
If the insulation is already bad, you must replace it first then add your solution!
I actually considered this but the smallest corrugated drain pipe I could find at the big box store was 4 inches in diameter which in my opinion is too large for this application not to mention difficult to seal at the wall penetration and could potentially allow snow and water accumulation inside it.
Send us a link to your video where you show us all how to do it better. We'll be waiting.
@@braniganblue3460 Can't figure out how to do it for yourself?
@@braniganblue3460 Since when do helpful comments require an accompanying video? Everyone has their own way of doing things (especially for efficiency), you’d be best to recognize that early in life. Also, where did they claim their solution is better? STANing for a home improvement channel is a whole new level of bizarre.
Thanks for the informative video. I am going to do this today. My AC is not cooling well and the pipe looked exactly the same crumbling insulation falling apart. An AC guy only said there is only a 14 degree gain in cooling but did not explain why. Wanted to put in everything new for about $18k. Hope this will help. I also have handler in attic which also needs insulation replaced. Heat gets to 140 -150 F there.
This will not help
I'm a 30yr HVAC tech/business owner, and this is negligible BECAUSE the "Cold Line" is flowing back to the compressor, the cooling has already been used indoors and the remaining "cooling" is used for cooling the compressor. Unless the whole line-set is uncovered, its NOT going to save you pennies on the dollar. It looks better and DOES help with a Heat Pump (Reverse flow of refrigerant) but its not going to make a dent on the power bill.
Correct but the colder the temp going back to the compressor, the more efficient the compressor runs, the more efficient it runs, the less energy is consumed.
I replace my old lineset insulation with thicker pipe insulation that I've had for many years. I also warped the pipe insulation with thin copper metal to protect it from the sun. I've had that roll of thin copper for over 22+ years and just found a good use good for it.
Lmao. We all have so much ‘maybe some day I will use it’ stuff in our garages it’s good to hear that eventually it has a purpose!
My house is only 2 years old so I should be in good shape at the moment. But with that being said I love these videos that bring insight to what we should be doing for the longevity of our units. It also gives me cause to inspect it as I do live in the south and it has been hotter than normal the last couple of years. You may not need to go to the extreme if the cost is more than expected but this video shows precautions one can take that are not that expensive but still very effective. Great Job!
Oh yeah, you should be good for another few years or so probably. I also live in the South and you are right, it has been especially hot! Does this year not seem even more hot than normal?! And we aren't getting much rain. Really glad to hear you found value in this. Thanks a lot for the feedback!
good stuff, I had to add new insulation on mine from the outside all the way to the inside unit the other day it was 140 degrees in the attic lol The original was some odd sort of fiber wrap nonsense. This makes a huge difference in run time. Everyone should do this to do in the fall/winter lol
The primary point of suction line insulation is because it passes through unconditioned spaces that can rot and damage like wood going through a hole in the side of a house. Heat gain through a 24 inch of cold suction line is meaningless compared to the thousands of btus of heat infiltration from badly insulated attic and wall spaces, and heat thru window glass, and door cracks, and using an oven in the evening to cook dinner.
It’s more than two feet and when you live in a hot climate like I do, it makes a difference.
@@HowToHomeDIY I have installed more air conditioning systems this week than you. They are on average less than 3 ft. The manufacturers state the suction line needs insulation mainly to protect condition spaces from condensation damage.
How to charge an orifice expansion device system is evaporator coil vapor temperature - suction line temperature at suction valve which is outside at the unit. Out in the desert there are different specifications because of the extreme heat but that is the exception to the entire United States.
@Dontbeweakvato oh good a measuring contest. Don’t know what else to tell you. The insulation is definitely for more than the condensation.
@@HowToHomeDIY got some stats to back up your claims?
@@HowToHomeDIY Not really.
Great idea, I hate the way the outlet of my ac stuff looks. I did find cheaper but not as cool looking linset box for about $18 on Amazon but will need to cut in half to make it work. I really dont care if it saves but does improve aesthetics
Insulation on that suction line has NO effect in how your AC cools. That’s actually refrigerant coming back to the compressor. As an hvac technician that’s doing way too much. Don’t waste your money.
This is a great video with a great suggestion. I'm going to go out and check the insulation on my AC unit right after this! One question I have though - I don't really see the point of that big "gasket cover" on the house wall. It seems that just covering the insulated pipe with that light-blocking material, and zip-tying it at each end and maybe a couple spots in the middle would do the trick.
It would. The outlet just helps seal up where it enters the house and looks a lot nicer. At least in my opinion.
I don't know why this is randomly shown to me, but I totally needed it - thanks!
I fixed mine today. Quick, easy, inexpensive. I did before and after pictures but don’t know how to post.
Hvac guy here with 30 years in residential hvac. This project is a total waste of time and money. That suction line that is exposed is heading directly to the compressor to be pumped into a high pressure, high temperature gas. You are not losing any cooling whatsoever with this shotty looking insulation. If you want to do anything, just wrap the lines with white duct tape. This repair is aesthetic only.
aprox $400 worth of overpriced, ovehyped material. USELESS!
I'm not even an hvac guy but it seems to me the suction line is an extension of the evaporator coil and if it is uninsulated it will gain heat this would definitely have an effect on how much energy is needed to cool house down.
Totally Agree !!!!
@@cgeorge6786 Not saying don't insulate, you should. Just don't need to go this expensive overdone method.
@@joelento5823Yes I agree when I heard this was hundreds of bucks it is a ripoff. I am still curious how much the efficiency would be affected if insulation is missing. My guess is if the insulation was not there at all on entire return line system would work 5% harder.
Wish you showed where it made a difference in improving the AC in the house. How many degrees colder or something measurable.
If you’re broke...like most of us are now, go to the Dollar twenty five store and pick up a few pool noodles. Buy the big fat Gorilla tape roll from Wally World, and a roll of Aluminum AC vent tape from Horror Freight.
Spiral wrap the Gorilla tape over the pool noodles, then apply the Aluminum tape long ways down the line until the entire circumference of the line is covered. Now circle wrap the control wiring on with more Aluminum tape every foot to the unit.
Works like a champ. And the Aluminum tape actually REFLECTS the heat from the sun, instead of absorbing it. And that tape is surprisingly weather resistant, actually. Expect to replace the Aluminum tape every two to three years.
Total cost: less than $25 😁
Does this really make your AC run more efficiently, do you have any data to prove this?
Changed mine out last year when it wasn't cooling like it used too.
Nice! Did you notice a difference?
Made a huge difference.
I wouldn't have installed the last UV protective sleeve, why? It is covering up the condensation line and it's best to leave it uncovered exposed so it can bring down the temperature and cool off💪🙋♂️💫
I just can't unsee how tight you're wearing the watch😮
Oh my! I did not realize how bad my lines were. I’ve got to at least sure up my insulation. Thank you so much.
Ok guys and gals. I'm not an HVAC technician but I did read a book on how refrigeration works. The large, insulated line is the suction line drawing refrigerant FROM the house. What happens if the suction line of an air conditioner is not insulated? A: It sweats, drips and adds more heat needing to be rejected by the condenser, reducing the efficiency. If the line is in your attic or above the ceiling, it will drip and cause spots on the drywall. For the most part, only the exposed insulation outside the house will deteriorate like that. Best to check everything you can visually see.
As a 13 year hvac contractor, you nailed it. It just makes more work for the compressor having to reject higher heat.
Yah, it’s basic physics. You’re exposing a cold line to ambient and possibly radiant heat. Why make the compressor work harder to reject heat you could have avoided being added to the system to begin with?
Technically, that cooler gas returning to the condenser, helps cool compressor motor . The compressor pumps it up to a higher temperature and pressure as it’s discharged into outdoor coil . Always higher temp than outside air,that cooler air causes that high temp and pressure gas to condense into liquid which starts the whole continuous process that makes the air/c function. That being said , it might gain a little extra heat( from the house to condenser) but doesn’t matter once it hits the compressor .
Looks nice. How much will you save vs. cost of the kit?
The kit is not something I factor into my cost savings as it’s not required for this repair. I simply got it because it looks more finished and does protect the insulation from going bad.
Thank you very much for this video, I'm fixing mine tomorrow.
You are very welcome! Hope it went well!
@@HowToHomeDIY -- It went fine and the old pipe insulation was half rotted away and crumbly. Thanks again, but I bought mine from Home Depot because I work there.
I just replaced the capacitor and relay switch and didn't even notice the installation on the line set. It's in as bad shape as yours. LOL , I guess it's back to the hardware store.
Good video, thanks
the line that is cold is coming back from house and will just run into the compressor and be heated up super-hot I put 2 layers of pipe insulation over it anyway but i covered outside with aluminum foil tape then taped the hot line to outside with more aluminum foil tape since that is the line going into house to cool house the aluminum foil draws the heat out of the hot line and dissipates it into air and around outside of cool return line insulation so hot line is quite cool going back into house. you can just paint the aluminum foil tape to any color you want mine is 25 years old and as good as new air conditioner runs great.
I looked out my window a few days i noticed the line insulation was not installed properly when the AC guys serviced the unit about 2 months ago. Now i know why my unit was not as cold i it was. I gonna have that fixed myself. I also noticed the bigger unit downstairs they installed almost dont have any
Just bought a house, AC needs work , so this helped a ton . I will report back in 30days with updates
It would be interesting to hear how much colder it is
My only critique would be you used UV protecting tape which is good, but you then you covered everything with that wrap. Could have used any tape if the tape isn’t being exposed to UV’s anymore right?
My lines go in the crawl space to the furnace. Should i wrap it up in the crawl space too?
Spray foam is as ugly as sin, but works better than anything I have ever tried. Pushes up into the siding, covers tightly on every surface. No moisture access. Been on my 40 year old unit for 6 years now, Instantly added cooling power.
Lovely! Mine is completely bare and has been freezing up! Its 97*f in the shade and no shade! lol! Thanks
If it's freezing up you've got problems other than lack of insulation.
One can argue the difference it actually makes but I’ve been reasoning this out and it makes sense. If the refrigerant is heated up when compressed, and that heat is then dissipated, it makes logical sense that adding heat prior to compression would make a difference. Heat is energy and it must go somewhere. So the post-compressed refrigerant would be that much warmer heading back inside the house. The additional heat has to have an impact, the question is more how much it matters.
After being compressed the refrigerant goes through the condenser coil, the heat is mostly lost there. The liquid line heading back into the house is not going to shed or hold any appreciable amount of heat due to insulation.
???? Huh? No it doesn't work that way
@HumbleWarrior7 you are exactly right! Someone else that actually understands how this works! Can’t believe how many other “HVAC Techs” are trying to refute this fact.
@johnpicard4909 refute? Are you an hvac tech?
.5⁰ added because of bare suction line is NOT added to the compressed refrigerant temp. Whers would you get this idea? Please go online and search how an ac system works.
I've done this for 40 years. And I promise you your not gaining heat by 4 or 5 ft of un insulated suction line.
@@donovanbryan5000 you’re picking a random number. Here I can do that too, 5 degrees. Doesn’t mean anything. The heat gain is going to vary based on many factors. Maybe follow some of your own advice and research it yourself. There is plenty of actual information out there that make this point clear. I don’t care how many years you’ve been doing it, that does not always equate to doing it correctly or fully understanding every facet.
While I like that extra step I think given that I have almost 25 year old systems I'll stop at the insulation and UV protectant tape as I don't think adding more stuff at this point will gain me much. Definitely will keep this in mind when I eventually have to replace the outside units.....great tips.
When I saw the video a hour ago, just sure my line was insulated. It was not, the whole line sweating. Ran to my local home depot bought some insulation for 8 bucks and double insulated. Thanks
Really glad to hear you liked it! I think it is more prevalent than people think! Glad you got yours taken care of! Thanks for taking the time to leave that feedback!
If there wasn't any insulation at all on it and you just insulated the whole thing you may want to have a tech come out and check your super heat to make sure you don't damage your vapor pump. It could ruin it and it isn't cheap to replace.
Ok that’s awesome but how about the section that goes inside to the attic that’s not wrapped isn’t the attic extremely hot or did you wrapped that as well
It crazy they charge for much for this. it's so simple any person can diy some for a 1/10 of the cost. This is why so many people living pay check to pay check.
The insulation helps keeps the vapor cool, this will help cool the compressor motor, if the motor gets to hot it will damage the motor windings causing the motor to short.
"if the motor gets to hot it will damage", there is a difference between to and too.
For all the people doubting this. I run businesses. Not just a 30 year tech. Contractors are notorious for doing the bare minimum. I've been running geonthermal while everyone else pays in the Texas heat LOL
That being said, any insulation is a pro and never a con. I have installed many heat pumps, mini splits, and central air, residential and commercial. Go to a restaurant and look at their hvac system, o wonder why everything is insulated lol
I've seen many commercial sites where the insulation has deteriorated to the point of bare copper showing. Restaurants are probably the worst example you could have used.
@capitalism420 perfectly example of why talking to you about it is pointless. The guy shared his credentials and experience and you try to discredit him 😂 you keep paying those higher electric bills bud.
@HowToHomeDIY credentials are fine, but no one yet has provided a set of before and after numbers.
It wouldn’t make any difference to give you numbers.
@@capitalism420oh here you are again. Confirmed. You have no clue what you’re talking about 😂 and the how to come guy is right. Pretty clear no matter what you would be shown you would stick with your ignorant take.
I see a few comments suggesting a wrap of reflective tape around the insulation. I was wondering if this would create a vapor barrier trapping moisture inside where it could corrode the line.
A pool noodle is cheap if you just have to cover it. I use the insulation you have to protect pipes from freezing.
Interesting!
I use pool noodles too and they don’t seem to be affected by the sun.
Is there supposed to be some ventilation space for that hole in the wall where the refrigerant lines exit? I had a lot of space in mine. When I had one of my two AC units replaced, I pointed that out to the AC company, and they put some expanding foam in there. There is still a tiny amount of space.
Ok all you genius HVAC techs, everyone one of you are wrong. This guy is absolutely correct, that insulation is important and is there for a reason. I am an HVAC tech and the reason that insulation is on the suction line is to maintain superheat so the vapor in that line does not condense back to a liquid before it gets to the compressor. HVAC compressors don’t like liquid and could eventually degrade the performance of the compressor. So for the guy that said he was a 30 year tech, you’re fired. HVAC tech my ass. Tell truth, you are an installer not a tech.
I am pretty sure that he is talking about the $300 atlas titan outlet cover and the rubber sleeve, not the actual foam insulation
Heating a vapor does not condense it back into a liquid. Compressing it and then cooling it does. Are you licensed?
@@1776vtgmb
If you have a heat pump, you would be using that unit in the winter to bring heat back into the house. Freezing cold air could POSSIBLY cause the refrigerant in the vapor line to condense before reaching the condenser.
@@oldtimefarmboy617 Where did you see heat pump? This is a/c.
@@1776vtgmbHe does say “heat pump” & if you look closely 2:50 you can see the third gauge hose hook up between the suction & discharge lines.😊