How to Fix Hydraulic Leak on Bobcat e42 Excavator - Swivel Joint (Step by Step DIY)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ก.พ. 2021
- My 2015 Bobcat e42 mini-excavator was showing some fluid drippage beneath. It ended up being a crown seal on the swivel joint. I decided to fix it myself and after 6 hours and $25 for a new seal, plus another seal replaced for good measure, I fixed the leak.
In this video, I show how I drained the hydraulic reservoir, and accessed the swivel joint, removed the hoses and showed the tools needed, disassembled the swivel joint, removed old seals and replaced with new seals, re-assembled and re-installed. Then I filled the hydraulic reservoir back up and purged the air out of the hydraulic system.
Here's a link to the silicone plugs and caps I used: www.amazon.com/dp/B00L4O8TR2/...
Thanks for watching!
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Dude thank you so much this is exactly what is happening to our JCB and I was pretty stumped until I watched this video. I have yet to do the repair but now I know exactly where I am going with it. 👍
This is the best repair video iv'e ever watched. You only talked about what was necessary
did it in order and left the music and all the stuff that doesnt matter out of it.
The camera work was good and not shaking all over and out of focus.
Nice job.
Thanks! The low light in the swivel area made a bit challenging.
I wish I had found this video before I took the swivel joint off of my E32. Still waiting to get it back from guy who is rebuilding it. I will definitely use what I learned from you to reinstall.
Hey, thanks for the video, I did mine this weekend on a Bobcat 324 Mini, some of those hydraulic lines on the top, I had to remove others just to reach, they were challenging. To make installing the top seal easier, I took a disposable thin plastic face shield, and wrapped it around the cylinder and taped it together, and the new seal slid all the way up in about 5 seconds..easy.. thanks again for the video, really helped out!!
glad it worked for you! great idea to get that seal on. I'll remember that for next time (hopefully no next time :)
Thanks for the shield idea!
glad that worked out! thanks for letting me know, That job was hard enough without spending a lot of time on that top seal!
I rebuilt the leaking swivel joint on my 324 a couple of years ago. A time consuming PITA. The rebuild kit cost me $400. I couldn’t see doing all of that work and not using all new parts.
Hi I just wanted to say thank you for making the process so easy the way you explain everything step-by-step showing and you just made this difficult task very very very extraordinary step by step every way thanks again
Nice job ! well executed. Tim is right about those blocks !! 2'' x 12'' x 8' planks stacked work great. Thank you for your insight-
and expertise. I gotta do my 353 3000 hrs - this takes all the mystery and anxiety out of the equation . Thanx millions !
little free tip. these swivels have sharp edges. instead of rolling or fighting the seal down. use a zip tie turned inside out {smooth side to seal} as a strap to ever so lightly stretch the seal on and over without rolling it or cutting the edges. works great on crown seals and ptfe seals alike.
Brilliant! Thanks for the idea
Great idea
@@camarocraig7060 thanks! i dreamt that one up battling my bobcat swivel joint. worked a treat!
Great video! Very informative! Well documented! I'm about to tackle that very project on my 2011 E-32. Thank you very much!
Excellent video! Thank you for sharing!
I found this video after doing the same job on my Bobcat mini. Wish I'd seen it first. Great job and thanks for posting. Doing it myself saved $1000.00. And I only got dirty and a few skinned knuckles.
I hear you... Those hydraulic connections on the top side of the swivel were tight!!!!
Nice job. Thanks for the tool suggestion. I have an E35 with 2600 hrs. It's probably something I will do in the future
The cinder blocks could have injured or killed you. I only trust heavy wooden beams stacked so they can't compress. Anyway, a good video all in all for the purpose. Side note. All of the seals need to be replaced if going in that deep. Senseless to only replace what is obviously leaking for what it costs.
Great Video, Now I can tackle my leaking swivel Joint!!
You can do it!
Did this on a Grove 50 ton crane. Good job.
Dirt sand grit gets in plastic seal area wears it out.Best to clean out area with wd40 washout gap.
Good tip for next time (hopefully not a next time!)
Thanks for your help, dad.. appriciate it. Didn't here that.
Thank you for this video! I was fearing repairing this on my e26 at some point, but it looks manageable.
I'm no expert and she's still running strong! Just got to stay organized, get the right tools so you don't cuss too much
Thank you for the video I'm going to do mine in my bobcat 430 mini excavator
Very Well Done! You hit all of the troublesome spots that saves me some time. My only caution is be careful using concrete blocks (CMUs) as jack stands. The are unreliable. Keep making these videos.....way better than a manual. Thanks.
your house sits on them.
@@DieselRamchargerNot in that orientation.
@@walterandrews3077 i feel you. but the weight of that mini spread across 4 blocks is minimal really. which is pretty obvious, seeing as how hes not dead.
Best video,thanks I have to work on mine,Thanks you so much.....😊
If you have to block this machine up again, please place those blocks so the hollows go up and down! If they break the way they were in there, they would drop in a heart beat.
I just replied to the guy above with the same observation. You guys are detail oriented... I like it! I do agree with your block orientation suggestion. There was a reason that I can't remember at the moment why we turned them sideways. That's why also put jack stands underneath for added support. Next time, I plan on skipping the concrete blocks altogether.
I seen nick in one of the center seals you didn't replace if you have leak down on one opp that's why . Temp imp
I thought the same in fact I wouldn’t get under either way CMU block is only moderately structural with the cell in the horizontal position and compressive strength varies depending on type of block with 2k psi average and that seems to be ok if you add 4 block to each side of machines weight distribution, this is if you built wall and bedded in mortar of equivalent strength so any irregularity above or below diminishes integrity.
Sometimes we just use what we have available and it usually works or you read about the time it didn’t . Be safe your fam needs you
I worked as a design engineer on hydraulic circuits for years. I think the reason the top seal is worn so much is dirt and water is getting in on top. A top hat type seal like a lip seal if hung out over the top would help keep out the dirt. Without checking (I'm too lazy to look it up) the very top seal and very bottom seals only handle drain pressure and also take most of the side loadings. They basically keep the spindle centered. Metal rotating on plastic seals has to wear eventually, even on a film of hydraulic oil.
It also helps if the unit is located perfectly in the center of the ring gear. Even if offset 5mm, the hoses move back and forth that amount during a full rotation. This side loads the unit a little. Just my thoughts.
Thanks for your insight! I never thought about why it failed until you mentioned it. You're right... it won't take much of a sideload or dirty fluid to wear a flat spot on the crown seal. This one lasted about 2000 hours, so hopefully won't have to do this again for another 2K!
@@davidpatrick3533 yeah, I bet you're looking forward to doing it again! And you'll forget half the lessons you've learned here so you'll have to watch your vido!
You got it! Half the reason I'm making these videos is to remind me how to do it and what tools I need to do these tasks the next time!
True
I would have changed all the seals in the rotate manifold, u are already there! Also they keep all the pressure in the circuits so they u will not have any bleeding off the tank or etc!
excelnte video
Thank you for the video gracias...
Dang I wish I found this video earlier, I had to learn this on my own, bobcat told me to remove 3 bolts on bottom and it should come out, lol said I didn’t need to remove hoses
Could you have left the assembly in the machine and unhooked the topside hoses, then just lifted the "cartridge" out of the swivel? I'm about to have to do this on an e35. Thanks for the awesome video!
Ha. Interesting idea. Possibly. I can't remember if there was clearance to do that or not. You'll know when you look down into it. Good luck!
@@davidpatrick3533Thanks! I'm definitely not looking forward to it haha
Where did you find the seals? Dealer wants $500 for seal kit.That was awesome!, looked alot easier than the final drive I had to rebuild years ago...heck, the hardest part of it will be the 16lines connected. Thanks million for making the video, your the only one I found that looks like mine.
You're right... the worst part was hose management. I'll have to look into tilting the cab. That would make it a lot easier. I agree about the blocks. Great public advisory what not to do :) But I did also have jack stands under there somewhere.
Thanks great video. I'm doing this today on a terex xt55 boom need all the help i can get cause i would rather not have to pull it out again definitely wasn't fun.
You're welcome... a lot of cursing going on during these kind of projects!
Does your cab not jack over? I have a gehl603 that looks about same size and it Jack's over for easy access to swivel. Thanks for video, I'm gonna tackle that soon
NICE VID. For YOUR SAFETY...
PLEASE only load the CONCRETE BLOCKS with the VOIDS
VERTICAL..(Like they would be stacked in a wall). NOT on their SIDES.
I was yelling at the screen when I saw that!
The COMPRESSIVE STRENGTH is in their OUTER EDGES.
Remember..You only get crushed once.
*Whenever you can, just try to AVOID BLOCKS altogether.. and just use pieces
of TIMBER. (Much SAFER).
Liked seeing the SWIVEL work though.
Good observation! I completely agree with your block orientation suggestion. There was a reason (like a height reason) that I can't remember at the moment why we turned them sideways. That's why also put jack stands underneath for added support. I like the timber idea. I should cut some up for the next time.
@@davidpatrick3533 Okay, so it needs what 12x12" by 18" length? Where are you going to get them? Why not just one of two lengths of scaffold board along the top of the three - - why not more ...cement blocks?
I have some old barn timbers that I could use and cut them down to length. Seems like Farmers have these things around their barn. Or buy 3 of 2x12x16, cut it into 2 18" long pieces and lag it all together to build up to 9" thick, to make 4 pieces. At least lumber has gone down in price a bit. I think @DavidBailey's suggestion was to avoid the cement blocks because they can catastrophically fail without warning (say there's a crack), where timbers might be more forgiving.
David, thanks for the video. We have an older Bobcat 331 mini excavator that we think is leaking on the swivel joint. Once we determine that this is the problem, we will need to get it out. This gives a great overview of the tool and procedure needed to remove it. I was wondering why you didn't change the oil-seals between each groove? I think I may do that, due to the age of our machine. Also, how would you recommend marking the hoses?
In retrospect I should have changed them too while I had the swivel joint out. Regarding keeping the hoses organized, use colored electrical tape or colored zip ties on the hoses, and draw a diagram for the swivel joint itself. Also, take photos. My hoses already had markings on them. Good luck! Keep it clean and stay organized!
Those blocks under the tracks. Support better with the holes up - down.
Great overview. While you were in there, why didn't you change all sectional seals?
Great question! I'm probably going to regret not doing that!
Look into aera diesel for parts and repai
So glad you’ve done this video I have an e20 and gotta do seals on it over Xmas. What size bungs and caps did u use. Thanks Kev
I got this kit here from Amazon: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4O8TR2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and used mostly the large ones... 5/8" to 3/4"
Good luck!
I'm working on a 3003 mustang excavator swivel joint,can't find seals for it..
Just watch you do the swivel joint on the little digger I've done several swivel joints on 20t and 13t machines it's a lot easier more room to work but you do need a ratchet strap to lower the joint I normally dig a trench in a field and track machine over it you can stand up under machine the only thing you done which could be fatal is sitting the machine on them concrete blocks they have a tendasy to shatter you should have turned the blocks upright that's a 4 and half tonne machine I wouldn't have chanced it I always think safety I'm always working on my own out in middle of nowhere sometimes you do well if it was your first time iv been at it nearly 50 years well done
placing yourself in a trench under an excavator is as risky as him placing it on blocks..the trench can colapse at any time
This is a great video! Thank you for putting it together and with all the details.. I have a 2014 E45 and I have the same project to do and your video will help me immensely. Can you send me a link to the plugs you bought on Amazon? Thanks again!
Thanks! I added a link to the silicone plugs and caps in the video's description. Good luck and don't lose all of your knuckles!
Perfect, thanks. I'm prepared to shed a little blood doing this job haha!
Great video. Very informative . I see how you purged the air out of the sysem but where did you purge the air out of the system?
Thanks! Purging it is easier than it sounds. All I did was manipulate all of the controls forward, backwards, forward, backwards, track fwd, backwards, over and over until you hear the air get removed. It will make a whining noise when there's air in the system. And after a few minutes the whine will go away as the air automatically gets bled out of the system. As I mentioned in the video, keep checking your hydraulic fluid level during this process and add fluid as needed.
@@davidpatrick3533 Okay thanks.
I put a 21k dozer on 4 dump truck brake drums.....not sure what they're rated for but it held dozer up:)
Did a great job. But, please from now on stand your block up. They are like a million times stronger that way.
Hi David, same machine, if when you raise the blade falls quickly back to the ground and left track is slow as hell vs other side, what would you say ? do i have same issue with center joint seals mixing fluid ?? Thank you in advance.
Oh man... I feel for you. I'm not an e42 hydraulic expert so I'm just thinking out loud here... I could visibly see leaking oil so the crown seals made sense for my symptom. However, for yours: your internal swivel seals guess is a good one. Assuming both of your issues are related, I can see that at least one of those swivel joint internal seals is bad. I don't remember though if chamber for the blade was adjacent to the left drive motor chamber meaning that one bad seal is causing both problems. How many hours are on your machine?
and after watching it, i figure you should have used 3 or 4 slim wires - like a brazing rod sat on cylinder to stop that seal falling into every single groove when you wrestled it all the down with the pick.... i'll try it!
Brilliant idea!! Next time (hopefully there is no next time) I'll do that.
Of half dozen bbq sticks.
Hi.. thanks for video - we are just about to do an E26 which i guess is very similar... can i ask where you bought the seals????
I bought them from our local Bobcat dealer. I had to wait a few days for them to arrive at the store. Good luck!
Did you notice reduction of swing power because of the leak?
Thanks for the upload
No, Actually, the leak was small enough where I didn't notice any symptoms or lack of power yet. If the leak got worse, where I think it would have affected the most would have been my drive motors since they take had the largest lines attached to the swivel joint.
Was the swiwel weak? my komatsu 3 ton mini excavator is really weak when i am gonna push some dirt sideways, maybe the swiwel have an internal leak
My symptom was only a leak. I had not noticed any lack of power yet. But makes sense that the fluid is either leaking within the chambers of the swivel joint or the hydraulic cylinder itself. That doesn't sound like a fun one to troubleshoot!
Where did you get your book for the machine that helped walk you through the process?
I can't remember exactly, but it was a site like this: www.epcatalogs.com/bobcat-e42-compact-excavator-service-manual-pdf/
Just google your make and model number including the phrase "Service Manual". Some will let you download the PDFs and then you can view on your device or print 200 pages! I threw mine in a 3 ring binder.
Hi im getting ready to do a e35 will bobcat sale them seals separately
I just bought the 2 crown seals. I believe you can buy each crown seal separately. Not sure about the rest of them though.
i have same problem on old fiat Hitachi ex50 urg tok it out gave it to shop to get the seal done put it back in after one minute leaked again,my head went then,cant get book or workshop manual to do it myself ,yours looked easy, mine is a right pig to work on,think I put hosses back in wrong place, nightmare,can you help ,books etc or where to get tried all ebay ,japan,all,nothing on these old machines,regards joe.ps put hosses bak wrong would that cause the seals to blow again,problem is on track drive not the digging.
hey George -- I'm sorry to hear your issues. I don't know if connecting the hoses wrong would have caused the seals to blow again. I'm just not that well versed in this stuff. It's bad enough disconnecting the hoses one time and reconnecting, but with your lines crossed, you're going to have a heck of a time redoing it all. Maybe you can find someone else with the same machine to share the connection points with you. Best of luck
WHAT IS THE HYDRALIC CAP ASSORTMENT KIT YOU MENTIONED THAT CAN BE FOUND ON AMAZON?
www.amazon.com/High-Temp-Silicone-Assortment-Masking/dp/B00L4O8TR2/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2CWTK4YLBX1I0&keywords=silicone+plug+set+caps&qid=1667737381&sprefix=silicone+plug+set+ca%2Caps%2C232&sr=8-2
Hello, have you ever had your machine to start leaking from the travel pedals?
Not yet... I'm not looking forward to that, but the connections are right beneath the floor panel.
I did , took the travel valve off and had it rebuilt at a local hydraulic shop. Not too bad of a job if you mark the lines.
Hey man what hydraulic oil did you use to refill??
I'm pretty sure I use whatever Hydraulic oil that my local Bobcat dealer sells $$$$
Did this leak cause all your hydraulic functions to lose power?
Nope, I had full power as much as I could tell. This leak was only weeping fluid and dripping on the ground and hadn't gotten that bad yet. I caught it early.
Bro , can you tell me about seal size ?
Not sure actually. I ordered them through the bobcat dealer who knew. Maybe talk to a Bobcat dealer.
Oh yeah, and dont ever use concrete blocks, use rr ties, or big truck brake drums, but never blocks, especially on their side, there is zero structural strength on their side, they are designed to stand holes vertical, but that could have been deadly. Dont wanna see yall get hurt .
Great video but one thing gender blocks as ramps is very dangerous. When they break it happens all at once. Please used cut railroad ties or something other than gender blocks.
I agree -- I also had jack stands underneath it.
Nomro wtshp