Thanks Gary. It looks to have great levelling properties. I'm not too worried about perfect colour matches. I don't think anyone really knows anymore. Even samples of paint from aircraft parts not exposed to weather or light can't be trusted in my opinion as we don't know how they'll have degraded with time. I also doubt that batches of paint were ever that identical; it's hard enough nowadays; imagine what wartime Britain was like! So near enough is good enough for me. Leave the rivet counters to pull themselves up by their own bootstraps by colour matching to restorations (or black and white images) and just enjoy the painting process. I did a Mossie and tried to recreate the colours I knew to be wrong but had seen in a colour image from the war; the colours of the image were undoubtedly degraded over time (have a look at some of your own photos from the seventies) and managed to get the overly blue hue for the grey and the overly yellow hue for the green. I really enjoyed doing it, I really like how it's come out. I know it didn't look like that in the factory but I've recreated an image I've seen of it, which is what I tried to do. Life's too short to have a room full of models all painted in exact shades of colours that no one really knows to be correct. Play with colour, enjoy the process.
Yes, the paint levels very well. As for the colour, I guess the tones they use here laid over either grey or black give the result I most associate with the classic brown and green and beige green camouflage system. I'd like to see what extra-dark sea grey looks like in their range, and sky type S, for Fleet Air Arm machines. I do like the idea of colour matching to a photo (with all its issues from the original fidelity of colour reproduction to the effects of the passing of the years).
@@garys_stuff i already did and he said that due to stupid customs rules with paint being classed as a "toxic" and "hazordous" material they can NOT ship international on a one to one basis but its not a problem to ship international if its going to an established importer /distributor for their products....yep another wierd regulation..
Having worked in the laboratory of an industry that uses the same materials as the paint industry, I can say with some certainty that there will be a big difference in pigment concentrations between your hand made lab samples and a factory production run. We will have to wait and see 😮🇬🇧🌈
Well, from what I understand we are not talking about factory-made paint, we are talking about small batch hand-mixed paints. The samples I was given were decanted from a retail bottle - several reviewers were sent paint samples. Therefore I don't see that what you get from them will be any different to what I tried out.
These paints look good. The only problem I can see will be availability. Like MRP and Hataka for example ,I will only pick these up at a model show etc. I won't pay a fiver for a jar of paint and the same again for postage. Distribution and availability will be key.
Good honest review that has similar conclusions to others that certainly makes them worthy of a try when they are available. They are probably good paints for an airbrush beginner as they are straight out of the bottle with no thinning and good coverage. Wish I had used lacquer based paints when I first started using an airbrush as proper acrylics can be bit of a challenge. Whilst using an N97 type mask is better than nothing, switching to a proper respirator is well worth it as they help with the paint particles and the solvent - made a big difference for me as the paints triggered some hay-fever like symptoms even in a well ventilated open area using an N97 mask.
Thanks Gary this is an excellent review full of decent, honest opinion and ill ge investing early next year when the paints will be in the UK and my own stock will have been run down a little more. Not far off 13k followers Gary so congratulations on your ever evolving channel reaching far and wide across our living spaces 👏👏
Another great honest review on these new paints. They look great I'm going to invest in some I've got an Tamiya 1/35 Marder II I'll try them on that. Keep up the great work 👍
Nice demo Gary. They look good. Us modellers are spoilt for choice these days when it comes to paint. I wonder how all these different companies can make a living!
I guess anything that says "water based acrylic" is relatively OK but anything saying "lacquer" will have the organic solvents. I'm sure most manufacturers will be up front about it too.
I've asked this same question before, and can tell you they are designed to be used straight out of the bottle as is. I haven't heard from anyone yet who has tried them and had any need to thin them at all.
Everytime I try to paint in the like button, i have problems going outside the thumb line. Will these paints make me a better thumb painter? Also, which airbrush were you using and approximate air pressure? Well done with the demonstration and your thoughts. Much appreciated ☕🐢
My pleasure! I used three different brushes - the Neoeco SJ83 I've been testing plus the Gaahleri GHAC-98D (review coming soon!) and the GHAD-68. All were easy to use right from the bottle all easy to clean up afterwards, especially the GHAC-98D!
No, haven't forgotten it - it is mentioned in my video of the build of the egg Lancaster that will appear next week! It's the thing that lets the kit down, in my opinion, and I would have used proper decals but I don't have RAF squadron lettering at that size.
Compositionally, these paints are exceptionally similar to the MRP lacquers. They are both commercial automotive lacquers reduced in viscosity for modelling airbrushed. Gas chromatography never lies!!
Composition is one thing. How that composition is arrived at is something different that gas chromatography doesn't tell you. It never lies, but the data it produces are specific and limited. Interpreting those data is where the subjectivity creeps in. I may be corrected by the guys, but I'm pretty certain Outlaw mix their own paints from the pigments and the carrier and whatever other liquids are needed. At least, that's what I've seen them do on live webcasts.
Hi Jason here from Outlaw Paints, we use the literal best liquid pigments and the best thinners, everything that goes into a bottle is handmade, the bottles are hand filled hand mixed and labbled and capped by two blokes working thier buts off
@@AussieScaleModeller thought so! I think it was during the 48hr group build with James I saw you do this. So you see @BBBForensic even if you add a mass spectrometer to the GC to help identify the analytes exiting the column, you still cannot determine how that mixture of analytes was created.
Hi Gary to me they seem to lack depth and going on the spray from your gun it looked very very thin!? Hnmmm! Your finished model didn’t ‘glow’ (not the best word) as your models normally do. I reserve judgement. Bob England AND you now tell us no brush painting? I use both methods on just about every build, not happy mate not happy.
Bob just a heads up we are also perfecting brushables, we will not release them untill they are 100% perfect, we have so far managed to get them to self level and not leave a brush stroke, We are using only the very best liquid pigments and our pots will be 20ml not 10ml
Thanks Gary. It looks to have great levelling properties. I'm not too worried about perfect colour matches. I don't think anyone really knows anymore. Even samples of paint from aircraft parts not exposed to weather or light can't be trusted in my opinion as we don't know how they'll have degraded with time. I also doubt that batches of paint were ever that identical; it's hard enough nowadays; imagine what wartime Britain was like! So near enough is good enough for me. Leave the rivet counters to pull themselves up by their own bootstraps by colour matching to restorations (or black and white images) and just enjoy the painting process. I did a Mossie and tried to recreate the colours I knew to be wrong but had seen in a colour image from the war; the colours of the image were undoubtedly degraded over time (have a look at some of your own photos from the seventies) and managed to get the overly blue hue for the grey and the overly yellow hue for the green. I really enjoyed doing it, I really like how it's come out. I know it didn't look like that in the factory but I've recreated an image I've seen of it, which is what I tried to do. Life's too short to have a room full of models all painted in exact shades of colours that no one really knows to be correct. Play with colour, enjoy the process.
Yes, the paint levels very well. As for the colour, I guess the tones they use here laid over either grey or black give the result I most associate with the classic brown and green and beige green camouflage system. I'd like to see what extra-dark sea grey looks like in their range, and sky type S, for Fleet Air Arm machines. I do like the idea of colour matching to a photo (with all its issues from the original fidelity of colour reproduction to the effects of the passing of the years).
Shame i cant them here in Irelamd
@@jaws666 get in touch with James at spruebox.co.uk and see if he can ship to you...
@@garys_stuff i already did and he said that due to stupid customs rules with paint being classed as a "toxic" and "hazordous" material they can NOT ship international on a one to one basis but its not a problem to ship international if its going to an established importer /distributor for their products....yep another wierd regulation..
Having worked in the laboratory of an industry that uses the same materials as the paint industry, I can say with some certainty that there will be a big difference in pigment concentrations between your hand made lab samples and a factory production run. We will have to wait and see 😮🇬🇧🌈
Well, from what I understand we are not talking about factory-made paint, we are talking about small batch hand-mixed paints. The samples I was given were decanted from a retail bottle - several reviewers were sent paint samples. Therefore I don't see that what you get from them will be any different to what I tried out.
Best paint i have ever used matey.. Have built 8 models with it so far, had them a few months and the primer is special!! . incredible paints really.
Excellent job on the pronunciation of "fiddy cent". I officially give you street cred. 🤘
These paints look good. The only problem I can see will be availability. Like MRP and Hataka for example ,I will only pick these up at a model show etc. I won't pay a fiver for a jar of paint and the same again for postage. Distribution and availability will be key.
Shame they didn’t give you them in retail bottles. The bottle to me is a very important part of the process 👍🇬🇧🌈
Excellent review Gary, thank you. Will have to get my grubby mitts on some.
Good honest review that has similar conclusions to others that certainly makes them worthy of a try when they are available. They are probably good paints for an airbrush beginner as they are straight out of the bottle with no thinning and good coverage. Wish I had used lacquer based paints when I first started using an airbrush as proper acrylics can be bit of a challenge. Whilst using an N97 type mask is better than nothing, switching to a proper respirator is well worth it as they help with the paint particles and the solvent - made a big difference for me as the paints triggered some hay-fever like symptoms even in a well ventilated open area using an N97 mask.
Thanks Gary this is an excellent review full of decent, honest opinion and ill ge investing early next year when the paints will be in the UK and my own stock will have been run down a little more.
Not far off 13k followers Gary so congratulations on your ever evolving channel reaching far and wide across our living spaces 👏👏
Another great honest review on these new paints.
They look great I'm going to invest in some I've got an Tamiya 1/35 Marder II I'll try them on that.
Keep up the great work 👍
Nice demo Gary. They look good. Us modellers are spoilt for choice these days when it comes to paint. I wonder how all these different companies can make a living!
Hi Gary. I take what you say about solvents seriously. How do we find out which paints use what solvent system?
I guess anything that says "water based acrylic" is relatively OK but anything saying "lacquer" will have the organic solvents. I'm sure most manufacturers will be up front about it too.
Hi Gary, did you have to thin these at all, or was it literally out the bottle?
No, these are pre-thinned so work straight from the bottle.
I've asked this same question before, and can tell you they are designed to be used straight out of the bottle as is. I haven't heard from anyone yet who has tried them and had any need to thin them at all.
@@crazylocha2515sounds awesome...why cant all paint manufactuers do it?
Nice review. How bad was the smell?
Not overwhelming but very much present - you'd not want to spray these (or any lacquer) in an enclosed room...
What pressure were you using?
20 psi, about 1.4 bar in new money. 0.38mm nozzle in a Gaahleri airbrush and a 0.3 in a Neoeco.
Everytime I try to paint in the like button, i have problems going outside the thumb line. Will these paints make me a better thumb painter?
Also, which airbrush were you using and approximate air pressure?
Well done with the demonstration and your thoughts. Much appreciated ☕🐢
My pleasure! I used three different brushes - the Neoeco SJ83 I've been testing plus the Gaahleri GHAC-98D (review coming soon!) and the GHAD-68. All were easy to use right from the bottle all easy to clean up afterwards, especially the GHAC-98D!
Gary I said in the comments months ago ) that the Lancaster kit the sticker decals are awful. Sorry you forgot this information
No, haven't forgotten it - it is mentioned in my video of the build of the egg Lancaster that will appear next week! It's the thing that lets the kit down, in my opinion, and I would have used proper decals but I don't have RAF squadron lettering at that size.
Compositionally, these paints are exceptionally similar to the MRP lacquers. They are both commercial automotive lacquers reduced in viscosity for modelling airbrushed.
Gas chromatography never lies!!
Composition is one thing. How that composition is arrived at is something different that gas chromatography doesn't tell you. It never lies, but the data it produces are specific and limited. Interpreting those data is where the subjectivity creeps in. I may be corrected by the guys, but I'm pretty certain Outlaw mix their own paints from the pigments and the carrier and whatever other liquids are needed. At least, that's what I've seen them do on live webcasts.
Hi Jason here from Outlaw Paints, we use the literal best liquid pigments and the best thinners, everything that goes into a bottle is handmade, the bottles are hand filled hand mixed and labbled and capped by two blokes working thier buts off
@@AussieScaleModeller thought so! I think it was during the 48hr group build with James I saw you do this. So you see @BBBForensic even if you add a mass spectrometer to the GC to help identify the analytes exiting the column, you still cannot determine how that mixture of analytes was created.
Hi Gary to me they seem to lack depth and going on the spray from your gun it looked very very thin!? Hnmmm! Your finished model didn’t ‘glow’ (not the best word) as your models normally do.
I reserve judgement.
Bob
England
AND you now tell us no brush painting? I use both methods on just about every build, not happy mate not happy.
Well, not every product is right for everybody Bob, I guess.
Bob just a heads up we are also perfecting brushables, we will not release them untill they are 100% perfect, we have so far managed to get them to self level and not leave a brush stroke, We are using only the very best liquid pigments and our pots will be 20ml not 10ml
@@AussieScaleModeller thanks for this. I am not impressed so far but I’ll wait until November and see for myself!
@@garys_stuff your finished models do normally look better Gary.