2 years of road racing on this 2JZ head!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ม.ค. 2024
- Sam's head came back in after 2 years of road racing for a refresh and we found some issues! Watch Dave go through the whole head and the components and the recipe to get this head back in tip top shape!
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You have some of the best technical videos on here for Japanese heads. Love what you do!
Appreciate the support and kind words
Brown stuff is likely from fuel additives. Water normally would steam clean the chambers at least from what I have experienced.
makes sense. I was thinking of water being stagnate not actually running because like you said it would wash it clean.
@@headgames i am unsure what standing water would do to an aluminum head. Maybe white powdery corrosion? I am just speculating here no direct experience with standing water with aluminum heads.
Yup, pretty sure it’s fuel additive as well!
So many cool tips and tear down tricks, always something to learn. Thank you Dave!!!!
you are very welcome!
Hey A HOLE. Happy New Year. Thank you for the videos. Love to the max from New Zealand to you.
Haha 😂 my man! Hugs from afar
Any information what oil he uses or the frequency he changes his oil, and/or he uses oil cooler.
I will ask!
Great video as always.
Happy new year to you and your team.
thanks for the kind words! Happy new year to you and your family!
Im building my own 455 olds heads so I'm very inquisitive right now.
Very nice! You just have to work harder to make power with it but certainly capable. Don’t even mess with the oem head, get something aftermarket.
Anddddd thats why Headgames is the GOAT!
love you long time!
I'm looking into actuated valves, Freevalve (Koenigsegg's company) has now started to accept orders.
Camless motor with valves you have complete control over, might be the last greatest development in combustion engines.
I'll drop back in when I find out but, I assure you, it will be expensive!😅😅😅 Think about it though, camless motors that you can control when and what valves open and close as well as for how long!
My first build, if I can afford it, will be a 1-1/2 JZ. Which I'm dropping into a 03 mustang with an r34 subframe AWD attesa system.
I can’t relate to that one! Sounds like a lot of work and money. Good luck!
That looks a lot like the damage I showed you at PRI, that we experienced on an RB head!
How were those bronze valve guides holding up? Thinking of putting them into a daily driver with a couple track days a year. It's turbo, so I'm trying to get all the heat off the valves as possible.
Valve float would be from light springs?. Im 3.5 mins in lol
Overrev/light spring I think
❤❤ 7 mins in
Question answered 😂?
I'm noticing you tend to go up in spring pressure, but what are the downsides of a stiffer spring?
No downside within reason. We go up in spring or closer to coil bind. To many downsides to not having enough pressure. If your gonna be off, it’s best to have to much than to little.
Great video. I have a 22re head I’ve been hearing mixed feelings about porting intake sides and making them smooth as it’s not direct injection what would you say about that?
Not sure I understand your question
@@headgames so I was wondering if I should port and smoothen out the intake runner I’ve been hearing that it’s best to leaving the stock casting texture as it helps the fuel atomize properly
@@fiys567 if your just polishing the runner and not porting, meaning not moving material and changing shapes then you are just wasting time on either side. If you are porting it then you can sand it, just don’t do more than 60 grit.
@@headgames I see sounds good. How should I go about porting the runners and maybe touching up the combustion chambers as they do have some sharp ridges. I’m not too familiar with this type of work although I do have experience using die grinders and dremels. I’ve looked for videos too see what I should be looking to change on this specific head couldn’t really find any. Also have you ever cerakoted the internals such as the valves combustion chamber and runners I’ve heard people use this rather than polishing
Have you had any experience with WPC treatment? It’s a treatment and not a coating so it’s nothing to wear off. Motoiq uses it a lot on there drift cars. Checkout there Ls build.
Waste of time and money in my opinion. Hard to quantify if it actually does something.
@@headgames So one of the things that stuck to me is there saying it extends the life of valve springs out allowing them to use it for 2-3 seasons. I don’t think it would be a fix for the valve float you outlined but maybe save the cam or buckets in the event of float. You may find it interesting they do very in depth videos and also write up’s on their website.
Look up Billy Godbold about doing treatments on springs. It won't prolong the spring, it would actually hurt it. The goal is to always rid these parts of heat, and when you put a coating on it, it acts like a blanket. We only use a blanket when we want to be warm. So, I think using it is theory but I have yet to see an instance where it was the answer to a problem. The spring in this video is 4 years old and not coated.
@@chrispetty5058
@@headgames ok that is interesting but just to clarify wpc is not a coating it’s a surface treatment. It’s not dlc or ceramic. It makes the surface ultra smooth. I guess it does some strain relief like shot peening which helps with spring fatigue. a spring generates heat as it’s compressed and maybe the low friction helps reduce wear. I’ll see if I can track down a vid or an article that’s quick. I do like your debunks.
Is he running a wetsump with this? if so its looks pretty good.
yes sir
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