In regards to the rolling comment. That is not a big deal and nothing surprising for a factory knife. It’s not the steel, it’s the factory sharpening. Burr left on the edge and fatigued steel from using a belt grinder are going to leave a weak edge. 99% of factory made knives suffer this issue. After ~3ish sharpenings I usually see a 2x increase in edge retention and much higher resistance to rolling or chipping. Highly recommend checking out Outpost76 and his edge retention testing. He shows how the edge retention increases over subsequent sharpenings.
Great to see you back in the saddle with sharpening dude. Also - I am so stoked you got your hands on a Super Vitrified stone and an Arc MT. I watched your review of Vadim's deburring book a couple days ago (video was from a couple years back) I feel like our sharpening journeys have correlated in certain ways. I'm still trying to crack the code on sub 100 BESS consistently. It seems so inconsistent (my results) sometimes I'm there, sometimes I'm not, and I rarely know why. Some aggressive edges fade super fast, some last a long time but have a terrible BESS reading. Anyway on the positive, I have an edge which is on deck for testing/filming now, LC200N SpydieChef Dual Grit edge, 400 Mesh Electroplated CBN (Spyderco Bench Stone) on the coarse side, Suehiro Cerax (your recommendation) on the fine side. Stropped on flat denim with Mother's Mag, then 0.1 micron Gunny juice. Registered as low as 86 BESS (my keenest dual grit edge so far). Anyway, thanks for the video Justin, all the best dude.
Around the time of that video I was probably closest to getting a consistent sub 100g BESS score but never fully attained that. I do think a notable part comes down to the particulars of steel and heat treatment which adds difficult variables to account for. Vadim did so by steel type and obviously had great success on his side just from that but of course we don’t all have several tormeks to play around with so I had a somewhat hard time applying his solutions to my own sharpening. LC200N is a dream to sharpen and incredibly forgiving in stropping to completely deburr from my experience. A favorite of mine for sure! Hope all is well South of the equator!
@@EngineersPerspective701 Thanks dude! I tested the LC200N - best feeling dual grit edge I've ever used I'd say - but it didn't last longer than the fine edge haha! Maybe could have used less stropping, but then probably would not have hit 86 BESS. That said, I would do it again, that thing blasted through 40mm Manila Rope in a way that was hard to believe. Totally echo the difficulties of following a book based on guided-angle Tormek-mechanized deburring principles and translating them to hand sharpening. That's the hope of the research that I'm doing now, is that I would be able to help hand sharpeners get more consistent results. It is proving a little elusive at the moment. It does seem in my sharpening that felt aggression (and tbh - even whittling hair) do not reliably predict a deburred edge. BESS done right will tell you when the burr is gone, but does nothing to guarantee a useful amount of real-world aggression in my experience. If I could find a way to marry the 3 (high aggression, long lasting working edge via dual grit, and low BESS) I know the edge would be amazing. I just find myself bouncing between them, getting 2 and sacrificing one most of the time. That MagnaCut Mule that I sharpened for Pete that went for 1550 cuts really nailed all 3, but I wish I could replicate that kind of improvement on more steels - seems like no 2 steels and HT's deburr quite the same. Thanks for your thoughts dude, sorry for the ramble. Nice to hear from you Justin.
It’s 1 micron Gunny juice on an Oregon Knife House cow leather strop. Gunny juice: www.gritomatic.com/products/gunny-juice-poly-diamond-emulsion?variant=40707239247981 Can’t buy the strop I don’t think.
Lol, my bad! You can look up continuous spray bottles and it should come up. Link below: SINOAY Empty Spray Bottle Mist Sprayer Spray Bottle Fine Continuous Spray Water Bottle for Hair Styling, Plants, Cleaning, Misting & Skin Care a.co/d/6cmNCYQ
I wanted to share a comprehensive analysis on the potential lifespan and number of sharpenings for a 2.5mm thick, 1cm tall, and 10cm long (approx, as I dont have it yet on my hands...) knife made of Magna Cut steel. To start, we need to consider the geometric volume of the bevel (12.5 cm³) and the amount of material removed per sharpening cycle with 400 and 1000 grit stones (0.039 cm³). However, geometry alone doesn't tell the full story. We must also factor in the initial available metal thickness of 2.5mm, the abrasion experienced during actual use, and the sharpening technique employed. Abrasion depends heavily on what materials are being cut - harder, more abrasive items will accelerate edge degradation compared to softer foods like vegetables and meats. Proper sharpening technique and the angles used also impact how much excess metal is unnecessarily removed. Taking all these variables into account, here is my integrated analysis for a knife of these specifications, assuming adequate sharpening skills and primarily cutting softer materials: The first 15-20 sharpening cycles will remove around 0.039cm³ of metal per cycle. After that, increased abrasion from use will require more frequent sharpening intervals. After approximately 200 cycles, the remaining metal will be insufficient for maintaining a robust, long-lasting edge. Therefore, the estimated usable lifespan for a knife like this, with weekly use, is around 1.5 - 3 years, highly dependent on sharpening technique and the materials being cut. This combines geometric calculations with real-world wear considerations to provide a more realistic projected lifespan range. As an expert sharpener, I'm interested to hear your thoughts and insights on this analysis. Do you generally agree with this estimate or have any other factors to consider? Let me know in the comments below!
Those are by far my favorite other two options but yes I’d take the Arc. It has really reinvigorated my love and enjoyment for multi tools. I’ve strayed away relying on full size dedicated tools but the Arc has been awesome for everyday life and getting me out of a jam when I don’t have the right tool
Thanks for the video. Do you a link anywhere that I could get the same stones as you? I’ve just been using my worksharp field sharpener but feel like I need a larger stone (and finer grits) to get it to where I would like.
Definitely recommend getting new stones as you progress into sharpening. Unfortunately the stones I have are pretty spendy and don’t come back in stock often. Here’s the link though. www.triplebhandmade.com There are some other super vitrified diamond stones out there but similar pricing and availability issues. I’d recommend checking out some resin bonded diamond waterstones if you want an amazing stone that isn’t in the stratosphere of pricing. Naniwa makes the best but I strongly recommend the Venev ones from gritomatic! Links below. Cheers! Naniwa: www.sharpeningsupplies.com/products/naniwa-diamond-pro-stone?variant=48626828050734¤cy=USD&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD_NyKlnNFrH_uADJErOR8Qu_3M4J&gclid=CjwKCAjwvvmzBhA2EiwAtHVrb01351XzQ90q7vkuUvVIOQPagQQuwKgTef31R48gGl9JyD09tSJkUxoCIZ4QAvD_BwE Venev: www.gritomatic.com/products/8-x-3-dual-side-bonded-diamond
You’ll want to skip. The fact that their double sided kind of forces you into it anyway. If you could only have 2 being budget conscious I’d recommend the 240F and 800F. But odds are you’ll have to get the 240F/400F and the 800F/1200F combo stones. Honestly I love this progression so it’s a real nice setup!
That tool sure has looked tempting, but already have the free p2 so kinda hard to justify it. Look forward to your take on the use of that blade. Kinda wonder what you think of the grind, like you said its on a multitool with certain intended use, but that bevel sure does look wide...
I’ve been super excited for this one! Like I said probably my ideal setup but time will really tell. Grind is the same as the Free series so it works but NOT high performance. Probably 0.025” BTE at 17-20dps is my guess.
@EngineersPerspective701 that is interesting, the way it looked to me in the video I would have guessed thicker BTE and looks significantly thicker than the way my p2 edge looks in person to me. Measured p2 at 0.020 BTE (not sure about adge angle), not that different in actuality I guess (is from a few years ago around when first released so dont know about that factor, never sharpened). Anyway, guess it must just be the camera or my perception with these videos somehow, I'll have to take it into account when watching future videos. On another note, read the comment of another viewer about the coating, was my thought as well, looks good but wouldn't have been my preference, guess they were just going for that look or a cost cutting measure, either way, understandable i suppose.
@@turing2376 I’ll measure it when I get back home, doing some upland game hunting this weekend. Could be 30 thou, I’m very out of practice feeling by hand these days! I think Leatherman liked the look and maybe thought it would differentiate from the free and name that $230 price rage more palatable
Why did they put a coating on the blade? Spyderco uses Magnacut in their Salt line so it must be pretty much rust proof. So the coating is just for fashion?
If you were trying to quantify something sure. An engineer also relies on heuristics so they don’t waste time. It’ll be 3-5 edges before it’s at peak performance. Check out outpost76 for that data. In this instance I couldn’t care less that is got damaged, it’s just meeting expectations.
Not a huge fan. If you need a quick and low skill edge I strongly recommend trying the worksharp guided field sharpener. The edges you’ll get will be a lot sharper and last a lot longer
I wouldn’t say it’s easier than S30V for someone that’s struggling. What are you using to sharpen? You might be causing yourself undue difficulty depending on how you’re setup
If you have a little bit of cash to spend , I would get the cheapest worksharp fixed angled system. And then get a universal stone holder for it . My worksharp has decent stones . They've sharpend 3v , 10v and s35vn no problem and it gets them sharp .
I don’t know but from what I’m gleening from comments on the temper, seeing the cryo quench in the arc video from Leatherman and the magnacut spec sheet I’m guessing the below: Assuming 2050F austenitize, freezer quench and 350F double temper the spec sheet shows 61.5HRc target
@@EngineersPerspective701 great,thanks for the informative answer. Amazing looking tool but I can’t justify the price as I already have a tti and a surge. Thanks for the awesome content tho 💪👍
@@rickyricardo3551 awesome thanks for letting us know. I think it looks awesome but not for me. I’ll stick to the surge or a tti and a good folder. I wish there was a serrated blade on the arc,might have bought one. Thanks again 👍
I dont know why but my Arc dullify much more easier than tti S30v blade and not get sharpened as S30V Anyone knows the answer? They say Magnacut is much better steel but it's not in my experience
I have not had the same experience myself. Anecdotally I find the Maganacut to wear noticeably better than benchmade S30V. Not 100% sure with your case, but there is a good chance that it is sharpening related. Magnacut is more resistant to lower end sharpening abrasives than S30V. Takes longer and feel more like its skating over the abrasive vs. biting in unless you’re using diamond. Just means it will take a little longer than a person is used to coming from S30V. Make sure you get a good burr on both sides with your first stone and take your time finishing. I bet you’ll see the improvement
Just cutting cardboard. It would still cut so it wasn’t a massive failure. It’s not the steel, it’s the factory sharpening. Burr left on the edge and fatigued steel from using a belt grinder are going to leave a weak edge. 99% of factory made knives suffer this issue and usually see a 2x increase in edge retention and much higher resistance to rolling or chipping. Honestly could have been left over burr from the factory that rolled but it didn’t feel like it had a huge burr to start with
Fantastic magnacut rolling on a couple of cardboard boxes 📦 really? Well all you knife experts say it’s the best thing since sliced bread, I don’t think even 420hc would roll that easily, also why coat the blade if it’s supposed to be super corrosion resistant? It’s your money
@@hammurambithat around 300F which is sort of low for a stainless steel temper but not unheard of. My guess is Leatherman is doing it higher to get softer and higher toughness so likely no issue
@@EngineersPerspective701 Per Leatherman’s recent Reddit AMA, they’re using the manufacturer’s recommended heat treatment for Magnacut which is a double temper at 350 F. I doubt they would temper very high. Above 500 F would yield hardness below 60 HRC and above 700 F causes embrittlement and poor corrosion resistance.
@@hammurambiany idea what hardness target they were going for? Assuming 2050F austenitize, freezer quench and 350F double temper the spec sheet shows 61.5HRc target
In regards to the rolling comment. That is not a big deal and nothing surprising for a factory knife.
It’s not the steel, it’s the factory sharpening. Burr left on the edge and fatigued steel from using a belt grinder are going to leave a weak edge. 99% of factory made knives suffer this issue. After ~3ish sharpenings I usually see a 2x increase in edge retention and much higher resistance to rolling or chipping.
Highly recommend checking out Outpost76 and his edge retention testing. He shows how the edge retention increases over subsequent sharpenings.
From a engineers perspective pants are just tubular towels
Exactly 😂! And socks are tubular rags for when you want to hide the mess
We missed you!❤
Had to make a video on this one!
Great to see you back in the saddle with sharpening dude. Also - I am so stoked you got your hands on a Super Vitrified stone and an Arc MT.
I watched your review of Vadim's deburring book a couple days ago (video was from a couple years back) I feel like our sharpening journeys have correlated in certain ways.
I'm still trying to crack the code on sub 100 BESS consistently. It seems so inconsistent (my results) sometimes I'm there, sometimes I'm not, and I rarely know why. Some aggressive edges fade super fast, some last a long time but have a terrible BESS reading.
Anyway on the positive, I have an edge which is on deck for testing/filming now, LC200N SpydieChef Dual Grit edge, 400 Mesh Electroplated CBN (Spyderco Bench Stone) on the coarse side, Suehiro Cerax (your recommendation) on the fine side. Stropped on flat denim with Mother's Mag, then 0.1 micron Gunny juice. Registered as low as 86 BESS (my keenest dual grit edge so far).
Anyway, thanks for the video Justin, all the best dude.
r/guysjustbeeingdudes
Around the time of that video I was probably closest to getting a consistent sub 100g BESS score but never fully attained that. I do think a notable part comes down to the particulars of steel and heat treatment which adds difficult variables to account for.
Vadim did so by steel type and obviously had great success on his side just from that but of course we don’t all have several tormeks to play around with so I had a somewhat hard time applying his solutions to my own sharpening.
LC200N is a dream to sharpen and incredibly forgiving in stropping to completely deburr from my experience. A favorite of mine for sure!
Hope all is well South of the equator!
@@EngineersPerspective701 Thanks dude! I tested the LC200N - best feeling dual grit edge I've ever used I'd say - but it didn't last longer than the fine edge haha! Maybe could have used less stropping, but then probably would not have hit 86 BESS.
That said, I would do it again, that thing blasted through 40mm Manila Rope in a way that was hard to believe.
Totally echo the difficulties of following a book based on guided-angle Tormek-mechanized deburring principles and translating them to hand sharpening. That's the hope of the research that I'm doing now, is that I would be able to help hand sharpeners get more consistent results. It is proving a little elusive at the moment.
It does seem in my sharpening that felt aggression (and tbh - even whittling hair) do not reliably predict a deburred edge. BESS done right will tell you when the burr is gone, but does nothing to guarantee a useful amount of real-world aggression in my experience.
If I could find a way to marry the 3 (high aggression, long lasting working edge via dual grit, and low BESS) I know the edge would be amazing. I just find myself bouncing between them, getting 2 and sacrificing one most of the time.
That MagnaCut Mule that I sharpened for Pete that went for 1550 cuts really nailed all 3, but I wish I could replicate that kind of improvement on more steels - seems like no 2 steels and HT's deburr quite the same.
Thanks for your thoughts dude, sorry for the ramble. Nice to hear from you Justin.
What spray is used? What is the leather used in the sharpening process? if you have link add 👇
It’s 1 micron Gunny juice on an Oregon Knife House cow leather strop.
Gunny juice:
www.gritomatic.com/products/gunny-juice-poly-diamond-emulsion?variant=40707239247981
Can’t buy the strop I don’t think.
bottle spray water not a spray diamond@@EngineersPerspective701
Lol, my bad!
You can look up continuous spray bottles and it should come up.
Link below:
SINOAY Empty Spray Bottle Mist Sprayer Spray Bottle Fine Continuous Spray Water Bottle for Hair Styling, Plants, Cleaning, Misting & Skin Care a.co/d/6cmNCYQ
thank you 🥰@@EngineersPerspective701
I wanted to share a comprehensive analysis on the potential lifespan and number of sharpenings for a 2.5mm thick, 1cm tall, and 10cm long (approx, as I dont have it yet on my hands...) knife made of Magna Cut steel.
To start, we need to consider the geometric volume of the bevel (12.5 cm³) and the amount of material removed per sharpening cycle with 400 and 1000 grit stones (0.039 cm³).
However, geometry alone doesn't tell the full story. We must also factor in the initial available metal thickness of 2.5mm, the abrasion experienced during actual use, and the sharpening technique employed.
Abrasion depends heavily on what materials are being cut - harder, more abrasive items will accelerate edge degradation compared to softer foods like vegetables and meats. Proper sharpening technique and the angles used also impact how much excess metal is unnecessarily removed.
Taking all these variables into account, here is my integrated analysis for a knife of these specifications, assuming adequate sharpening skills and primarily cutting softer materials:
The first 15-20 sharpening cycles will remove around 0.039cm³ of metal per cycle.
After that, increased abrasion from use will require more frequent sharpening intervals.
After approximately 200 cycles, the remaining metal will be insufficient for maintaining a robust, long-lasting edge.
Therefore, the estimated usable lifespan for a knife like this, with weekly use, is around 1.5 - 3 years, highly dependent on sharpening technique and the materials being cut.
This combines geometric calculations with real-world wear considerations to provide a more realistic projected lifespan range. As an expert sharpener, I'm interested to hear your thoughts and insights on this analysis. Do you generally agree with this estimate or have any other factors to consider? Let me know in the comments below!
Great video. Aside from one hand opening, would you take the arc over the spirit and charge?
Those are by far my favorite other two options but yes I’d take the Arc. It has really reinvigorated my love and enjoyment for multi tools. I’ve strayed away relying on full size dedicated tools but the Arc has been awesome for everyday life and getting me out of a jam when I don’t have the right tool
Thanks for the video. Do you a link anywhere that I could get the same stones as you? I’ve just been using my worksharp field sharpener but feel like I need a larger stone (and finer grits) to get it to where I would like.
Definitely recommend getting new stones as you progress into sharpening.
Unfortunately the stones I have are pretty spendy and don’t come back in stock often. Here’s the link though. www.triplebhandmade.com
There are some other super vitrified diamond stones out there but similar pricing and availability issues.
I’d recommend checking out some resin bonded diamond waterstones if you want an amazing stone that isn’t in the stratosphere of pricing. Naniwa makes the best but I strongly recommend the Venev ones from gritomatic! Links below. Cheers!
Naniwa: www.sharpeningsupplies.com/products/naniwa-diamond-pro-stone?variant=48626828050734¤cy=USD&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD_NyKlnNFrH_uADJErOR8Qu_3M4J&gclid=CjwKCAjwvvmzBhA2EiwAtHVrb01351XzQ90q7vkuUvVIOQPagQQuwKgTef31R48gGl9JyD09tSJkUxoCIZ4QAvD_BwE
Venev: www.gritomatic.com/products/8-x-3-dual-side-bonded-diamond
Thanks @@EngineersPerspective701 . Which grits do you recommend getting? Like is it worth getting all the grits or skipping some?
You’ll want to skip. The fact that their double sided kind of forces you into it anyway. If you could only have 2 being budget conscious I’d recommend the 240F and 800F.
But odds are you’ll have to get the 240F/400F and the 800F/1200F combo stones. Honestly I love this progression so it’s a real nice setup!
That tool sure has looked tempting, but already have the free p2 so kinda hard to justify it. Look forward to your take on the use of that blade. Kinda wonder what you think of the grind, like you said its on a multitool with certain intended use, but that bevel sure does look wide...
I’ve been super excited for this one! Like I said probably my ideal setup but time will really tell.
Grind is the same as the Free series so it works but NOT high performance. Probably 0.025” BTE at 17-20dps is my guess.
@EngineersPerspective701 that is interesting, the way it looked to me in the video I would have guessed thicker BTE and looks significantly thicker than the way my p2 edge looks in person to me. Measured p2 at 0.020 BTE (not sure about adge angle), not that different in actuality I guess (is from a few years ago around when first released so dont know about that factor, never sharpened). Anyway, guess it must just be the camera or my perception with these videos somehow, I'll have to take it into account when watching future videos.
On another note, read the comment of another viewer about the coating, was my thought as well, looks good but wouldn't have been my preference, guess they were just going for that look or a cost cutting measure, either way, understandable i suppose.
@@turing2376 I’ll measure it when I get back home, doing some upland game hunting this weekend. Could be 30 thou, I’m very out of practice feeling by hand these days!
I think Leatherman liked the look and maybe thought it would differentiate from the free and name that $230 price rage more palatable
@EngineersPerspective701 definitely a slick looking tool, may upgrade some day. Good luck on the hunt
No chance you’re in DFW lol I need my ARC this sharp. Great work brotha 🤙🏽
Thanks man! Get some stones and get after it!
I do recommend the Worksharp guides guild sharpener for Leathermans.
Why did they put a coating on the blade? Spyderco uses Magnacut in their Salt line so it must be pretty much rust proof. So the coating is just for fashion?
Just for fashion it seems. My guess is they have the mentality that the looks will sell.
Edge damage, test cutting, sharpening, then test cutting, this is how a qualified engineer should proceed...
If you were trying to quantify something sure. An engineer also relies on heuristics so they don’t waste time.
It’ll be 3-5 edges before it’s at peak performance. Check out outpost76 for that data. In this instance I couldn’t care less that is got damaged, it’s just meeting expectations.
@@EngineersPerspective701 Sharpening a sharp blade, what a feat! :)
Always shooting for the stars!
What are your thoughts on pull through sharpeners?
Not a huge fan. If you need a quick and low skill edge I strongly recommend trying the worksharp guided field sharpener. The edges you’ll get will be a lot sharper and last a lot longer
I demonstrated it here th-cam.com/video/pPy09boujzw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=oeS8m67HxamfKeAv
is magnacut hard to sharpen? i can barely sharpen my s30v bench made and when i hear magnacut was better i was discouraged from buying the arc
I wouldn’t say it’s easier than S30V for someone that’s struggling.
What are you using to sharpen? You might be causing yourself undue difficulty depending on how you’re setup
If you have a little bit of cash to spend , I would get the cheapest worksharp fixed angled system. And then get a universal stone holder for it . My worksharp has decent stones . They've sharpend 3v , 10v and s35vn no problem and it gets them sharp .
Amazing edge🔥🔥
Thanks!
Are you able to open the main blade left handed?
It’s doable but pretty difficult. Not very accommodating to lefties.
Hi,Does anyone know the hrc on the Magnacut. Thanks in advance
I don’t know but from what I’m gleening from comments on the temper, seeing the cryo quench in the arc video from Leatherman and the magnacut spec sheet I’m guessing the below:
Assuming 2050F austenitize, freezer quench and 350F double temper the spec sheet shows 61.5HRc target
@@EngineersPerspective701 great,thanks for the informative answer. Amazing looking tool but I can’t justify the price as I already have a tti and a surge. Thanks for the awesome content tho 💪👍
@richardlewis7047 some folks have tested their's and it's around 60.5 to 61 hrc
@@rickyricardo3551 awesome thanks for letting us know. I think it looks awesome but not for me. I’ll stick to the surge or a tti and a good folder. I wish there was a serrated blade on the arc,might have bought one. Thanks again 👍
Thank you for sharing that!
Rolled the edge so quickly by cutting down a few diaper boxes? What? How many is a few? A few thousand?
3 boxes. Rolled edges are a function of edge strength not wear resistance. It was just a weak edge from the factory, not super surprising
I think you we're referring to Cliff Stamp RIP
Cliff Stamp clone I think 🤔
Dr Kraichuk is who I was thinking about. Cliff is a legend too for sure
I dont know why but my Arc dullify much more easier than tti S30v blade and not get sharpened as S30V
Anyone knows the answer?
They say Magnacut is much better steel but it's not in my experience
I have not had the same experience myself. Anecdotally I find the Maganacut to wear noticeably better than benchmade S30V.
Not 100% sure with your case, but there is a good chance that it is sharpening related. Magnacut is more resistant to lower end sharpening abrasives than S30V. Takes longer and feel more like its skating over the abrasive vs. biting in unless you’re using diamond.
Just means it will take a little longer than a person is used to coming from S30V. Make sure you get a good burr on both sides with your first stone and take your time finishing. I bet you’ll see the improvement
@EngineersPerspective701 Thanks for your reply :D
I will try to fix the problem, thank you :)
Did the edge roll that easily?
Just cutting cardboard. It would still cut so it wasn’t a massive failure.
It’s not the steel, it’s the factory sharpening. Burr left on the edge and fatigued steel from using a belt grinder are going to leave a weak edge. 99% of factory made knives suffer this issue and usually see a 2x increase in edge retention and much higher resistance to rolling or chipping.
Honestly could have been left over burr from the factory that rolled but it didn’t feel like it had a huge burr to start with
Fantastic magnacut rolling on a couple of cardboard boxes 📦 really? Well all you knife experts say it’s the best thing since sliced bread, I don’t think even 420hc would roll that easily, also why coat the blade if it’s supposed to be super corrosion resistant? It’s your money
@@marcdee4427 we already talked in your other comment. For others, refer to the pinned comment.
What kinda an engineer are you? I’m civil and environmental
Degree in chemical but I work as a process engineer in oil and gas
Subscribed
Appreciated!
ok, esa es una 400 grit super vitrified diamond water stone
Best stone ever made
Maybe Knafs can market a specially formulated laundry detergent to get all the chromium and vanadium dust out of sharpener's pants.
My wife would buy a gallon!
The dlc coat on a MagnaCut blade is so pointless... It could've ruined the temper already..
Deposition temperature for DLC coatings can be as low as 150 C.
Definitely pointless other than esthetics. No guarantee it ruined the temper but it is the tempering range for Magnacut depending on their heat treat
@@hammurambithat around 300F which is sort of low for a stainless steel temper but not unheard of. My guess is Leatherman is doing it higher to get softer and higher toughness so likely no issue
@@EngineersPerspective701 Per Leatherman’s recent Reddit AMA, they’re using the manufacturer’s recommended heat treatment for Magnacut which is a double temper at 350 F. I doubt they would temper very high. Above 500 F would yield hardness below 60 HRC and above 700 F causes embrittlement and poor corrosion resistance.
@@hammurambiany idea what hardness target they were going for? Assuming 2050F austenitize, freezer quench and 350F double temper the spec sheet shows 61.5HRc target
First
🎉