How To Cut And Strip MC or BX Cables | 3 Easy Options
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 มี.ค. 2024
- Klein Tools MC Cutter - amzn.to/3IWcrZM
Wire Connector Locknut Wrench - amzn.to/3THYKCu
MC Plastic Bushings (35 pack) - amzn.to/3VAFXLX
3/8" MC Saddle Connector - amzn.to/3PFArnv
Knipex Cobra Pliers (10 inch) - amzn.to/3VSxEeT
Knipex Cobra Pliers (5 inch) - amzn.to/3TB3UA5
Cut Resistant Gloves (2-Pack) - amzn.to/3PyDCgD
I will walk you through 3 different ways to cut metal clad (MC) cable to the desired length. This is most common for DIY homeowners when wiring something like a furnace where you need more protection than just NM cable but also don't want to run rigid conduit. You have several options to cut MC and this can be accomplished with or without specialty tools.
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Klein Tools MC Cutter - amzn.to/3IWcrZM
Wire Connector Locknut Wrench - amzn.to/3THYKCu
MC Plastic Bushings (35 pack) - amzn.to/3VAFXLX
3/8" MC Saddle Connector - amzn.to/3PFArnv
Knipex Cobra Pliers (10 inch) - amzn.to/3VSxEeT
Knipex Cobra Pliers (5 inch) - amzn.to/3TB3UA5
Cut Resistant Gloves (2-Pack) - amzn.to/3PyDCgD
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
Industrial electrician. We often do the old bend, pop and snip to strip the jacket. Fast, accurate enough, can be done with limited available space and you can do it easily while standing on a ladder and/or dealing with already ran overhead cable. A roto split is a great way to go, anything assembled on the ground gets that treatment. BX connectors are built more solid than the Romex ones, you can grab the connector with a set of channellocks and turn the connector itself to tighten instead of messing around with the nut. Also to make sure the little "flag" on the redhead comes through the hole in the connector for fast confirmation during inspection.
Try using a Robinson S2 instead of a slotted or Philips screwdriver and you will never go back. On circuit breakers too!
Yep. Get some tin snips.
@@dirtyrotten2648:
Tin snips are overkill for MC. Diagonal cutters work better. Plus a diagonal cut leaves an obtuse angle which is less sharp than a 90° crosscut.
Phillips not Philips…
why not just use the"magic tool" it's an MC cutter. similar to a pipe cutter and i've never nibbed the wires inside
I recommend that when you insert the red bushing you align the pointy part (it has a pin like pointer) with the rough side of the BX cable cut. This will result in a better protection of the wires from that sharper cut side. Some BX cables also have a thin flexible Galvanized wire. I wrap this wire about three turns around the outside of the bx jacket in the same direction as the grooves. This will ensure that the red bushing stays in place during handling of the installation. Thank you for a great video.
7:00 I didn't like the way the last one had the sharp claw-like edge of the cable right in the split of the bushing - worst possible scenario ! I like to trim that claw too
I always just bend it with my hands about 90 degrees and then cut with my side cutters. Great video and very informative.
I bought that MC cutter tool along time ago, had to do a few mc connections. It is easy to use and once bought, saves time and will last a DIY homeowner a lifetime.
just don't buy the Klein one. they now outsource their tools from china and slap a "klein" sticker on it that says "made in america"
Great video. At 7:04 in the video, you really need to turn around the red bushing (aka Red Head) with the molded lip portion of the red bushing covering the sharp raw edge of the cut piece of spiral metal to protect the conductors inside. Right now, the open end red bushing is not protecting the conductors and therefore the sharp edge of the spiral metal can easily cut into the wires. I have seen too many BX/MC cable installations where the installer forgot to use the red bushing and this is a big NO NO causing potential electrical problems in the future and immediate failure of the electrical inspection.
Yeah there's still that sharp corner there that the bushing is supposed to cover. Also, almost unbelievably, it's supposedly not required to use those red bushings on type MC. Only the old AC requires it. But I say one absolutely should use those bushings without exception.
Amen to the positioning of the bushing.
Totally putting red bushing in wrong !
If you feel the red bushing was installed the wrong way, then what is the correct way? Please be advised that Scott installed the red bushing the correct way. @@mofbombay6290
For me, the right tools for the job. Thanks for your time and effort making the video.
Love your videos, always learn something. I rarely use BX and I have struggle with it, now I now the right way to cut it.
I have seen them installed but never being installed. Well explained and definitely the third method is the cleanest but if you are a professional. Thank you for sharing
I've been using the old MC cutter forever. It hangs nicely on one of my tool belt bags and makes it clean and easy when installing whips while on a ladder.
I hate wearing gloves when I work on electrical (and pretty much everything), and that tool is the right tool for the job.
I got the Klein tool and I love how quick and easy it is to use.
I also got the connectors that snap into the junction box and grab the cable end when you push it in.
Great teacher! Excellent information! Conducting poll is brilliant!
Thanks for the feedback!
I prefer the first method of cutting/stripping the MC cable. That method seems more productive for real job site work. Thank You and keep up the good videos. Have A Wok-Safe Day! 👷🚜🚧
I learned the hacksaw cut way back in 1966. The only difference I learned was to make your cut then just crack the bx by bending away from the cut (no reverse twisting); worked like a charm (remembering the shop teacher to never, never forget to install the anti-shock bushing).
I used the hacksaw until one day an older electrician gave me the special tool. It saves so much time and keeps you from slipping with the hacksaw and injuring yourself. The tool is very cheap compared to your time and if it saves you from injury it keeps you on the job more.
What is the tool you were given
Was it a Rotosplit? One of the types at the 6:00 mark.
I really learned something here, as I do from all of your videos. I was an aircraft electrician so I’ve never worked with this stuff. Just the occasional romex and outlet in my own house.
I always use the mc cutter. makes it a lot easier.
The first method and the tool look the best for me.
I've used a Dremel with a metal cut off wheel. Works well!
I always use 2 of the red bushings so the gap in the first bushing is covered up with the second bushing. One gap at 12 o'clock and one gap at 6 o'clock. It fully protects the wires.
nice, I learn something every time I watch one of your videos.
Thanks for watching 👍
Outstanding. Great work !!
My go-to tool. method #3 saves me time and headaches.
Thankfully I've only had to use bx once, and it was a short run (~3ft). I pulled the conductors right out, cut all the way through the steel with a hacksaw to length, then slid the conductors back in. Super convenient and easy way to trim shorter runs.
Thank you for the education
I have a similar Klien cutter and love it. I wired my garage with it and it was a breeze when doing many runs of the wire.
Thanks for the feedback 👍
As a plumber, I just bend and snap metal clad to unravel it, then use a diagonal cutter to cut the metal strand.
Used #3 in wiring my kitchen from knob and tube.
Nice, thanks for the feedback
Thanks a lot for the information
I've used MC and conduit, and I prefer the latter. Looks cleaner when I'm done. Not that I have used either very often.
Thanks! I wish I had this video few months ago and didn't learn how to cut it the hard way 😂
I used the tool in step 3 when installing cabinet lighting in the kitchen. Getting the wheel to cut sometimes is tricky depending on the bend of the cable. The biggest issue I had with MC is having the wires pull out and the not having enough wire on the other end. I know it's from inexperience, but something that got me a few times.
Good job information
Hi. I've never had to use MC but I never would have thought that those angled cuts were the right thing. I would have guessed a 90* cut was correct. Just shows how there's reasons trained professionals are professionals.
I like the cutting tool.
Hi There, i have saw you're different methods of unwrapping the BX cables although i noticed that you did 'nt mention that the red bushing has to have the opening slot in such way to be at the opposite side of the cutting edge of the bx cable... But you're explanations are well done. 👍
I use a hacksaw. If I don't have a vise handy you just put the end of the MC on the ground and step on it. Pull it tight with your left hand and saw at an angle with your right hand.
That is how it was done back in the day without any fancy roto split tool.
Another awesome video!!
Thanks!
Thanks
Method 1 is my go to, although I've never seen that cool tool used on method 3 so thanks for sharing that.
You bet!
you don't need the two channel locks. You just hold the mc cable with both hands and bend it and then just cut it . Ways faster ;)
@@lyndenwldYou can also carefully snip 1 of the raised ribs with a pair of dikes. This will allow the piece to pull away from the conductors.
*Good to know.*
Very nice
#1 is the best and cheap !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
When installed, make sure the 'red rocket' (bushing) is visible from within the box. Inspector doesn't want to have to dig to see it.
#3 all the way for me - another reason you're less likely to damage a conductor is that the blade runs parallel to them, so it would tend to slip between instead of trying to chop them off.
i run alot of MC especially big stuff like aluminum 500 mcm 3 conductor with ground . yes it comes that large . that stuff is about the diameter of your arm . i use a zipwheel on an angle grinder to just cut through the aluminum armor . then use a big red bushing.
Great video, thanks! Is there a waterproof/resistant saddle clamp for outdoor use?
There are also romex like connectors which do not have a full round hole rather the hole towards the box has a semi rectangular shape but they do have the standard two screw clamp for the casing like romex metal connectors. The hole shape prevents the metal cladding from slipping out of the connector into the box.
Thank you please let me know... JJ....😊
Thanks 😊, very informative.
I liked the first method.
Thanks for the feedback!
NICE
I have a 40+ year old Seatek Roto-split tool for this application. Cutters are still available for it. This is the only method I use.
I bought one years ago and I believe that is the best option as well. Using side cutters can cause damage to the cutters themselves....Which I had happened to me.
Most wire cutters are not made for steel. Luckily for me I only cut MC cable with it two times to realize it was leaving notches on the blades of the cutters. But it didn't permanently damage the cutters. Thank goodness.
Got myself a roto-split tool after that.
The pin on the red head bushing is for inspection purpose , make sure it’s visible in the j box if you don’t want an inspector to fail your work .
Always use a roto split then cut the end at a 45 degree angle then install red anti short bushings. In my area you have not been allowed to use flimsy AC ( BC ,cable with the #18 Guage extra flimsy bare ground wire ) since the 1980's in any commercial work. Have to use MC cable.
Thanks! perhaps you could do a vid on all things MC-. Can I run MC to a PVC junction box? or does it have to be metal. If it has to bee metal, isn't there something important that I need to know about th grounding?
I like a RotoZip, but in a pinch, just score slightly with a saw, bend, then it'll snap at the score line.
At least he is using good pliers
I was optimistic and motivated in 2023 and purchased a Klein MC tool. No idea how to use it, so this video helped me understand. So maybe if I get a burst of energy and a psychiatric episode of delusion, I can try and tackle a project that I've wanted to do since moving in here. The people that lived here before me just had a strange love or fetish for J boxes, or so it seems. They're everywhere, even in places they're not supposed to be. In one instance a finished room in the corner of the basement had a junction box in the rafters, that is covered by a plastered ceiling. That ceiling is totally plastered. It needs to come down. The idiot before me put up one of those damn stupid, LED fixtures, and he didn't use a J box for those, for some reason. He just drilled a hole in the ceiling, ran the wire through and screwed the whole fixture directly to the ceiling. Several feet, there is a junction box in the rafters with a wire (No ground and asbestos insulation) running from the bedchamber upstairs, into that box, then back out of that box over to another Junction box (Hex or Octagon) on the rafter with an outlet plate over it, and a clamp on the other side. NO GFCI protection fed from an outlet upstairs, going through a concealed box.
But anyway. I want to redo the furnace wire (and what I just described here) to run directly from the switch, as it is now, and directly into the fuse box (breakers) instead of into a junction box, then into the panel. It makes no sense how this house is wired. I wanted a rewire but the electric guy I hired talked me out of it and just said to put GFCIS in lieu of a grounded circuit. Looking back, I think they didn't want to handle the asbestos. But it's got to go, so I have to do it myself. And when one is crippled and has tumors and health problems and lack of money to have another bid for a rewire with another company, because the first company was afraid to do it, and I get it... But it is still not done. And it's impossible for me to do. But at least I know how to do what I need to do and I have the stuff I need to do it, after I buy more stuff, and now have the tools and knowledge how to use them. If lying in the bed wasn't painful, I wouldn't even bother getting out of the bed. There is just no point to anything, anymore.
Not bad ⚡️
Here is a problem I have come across in the past. Using either the rotosplit or hack saw electricians sometimes nick the neutral conductor. This can allow current to run in the casing and also metal framing of the building. It won’t trip breakers but it will create magnetic fields that may drive sensitive equipment crazy. The current will show up in the grounding conductor at the panel!
It is impossible to nick the conductors with a properly functioning rotosplit. The blade does not go deep enough.
Is there a metal connector you can use instead of the red plastic connector? Thanks. Jim
Electrician here. We use a hacksaw in the field. With a little practice you can cut it very quickly and cleanly
Electrician where? 20 years in the trades, and have never seen an electrician use a hacksaw. They all use a roto split.
“We don’t need no stinking special tool!” ( humor here!) I just grab the cable with both hands close together and bend it sharply until it pops open, twist it a half turn clockwise creating a loop in the sheathing and snip with side cutters. Very easy with the aluminum jacket. Back when it was called BX and steel it was a little tougher!
Was Wiring Town Houses way back when. It was illegal to run Romex in an Attic Space. Bought two BX Roto Tools, second one was half price. Found an odd tool thrown in the bag, it was a Romex Stripper. Master Electricians made fun of me. That’s until one of them ran a Hacksaw all the way into their leg muscle. Week later everyone had them. Still have my originals from then.
Oh course! A new tool is needed. :)
1> hold 2> bend, band and forth 3> pull.......done
Do you need to protectors anytime running wire... like that.... JJ...😊
By code MC cable can be run exposed the outer jacket is the protection but you need to strap it 12” from every connection point and every 4’ to 6’ after now that being said the stuff is by no means indestructible if you are putting it in a place where it could be exposed to heavy impact it’s not ok to use MC like say a garage where if it was exposed and you could hit it with a car or hammer in situations like that you can’t use it areas like that you need to be over 8’ high before you run it below 8’ you would need conduit. Hopefully that answers you.
Method #3
What size saddle connector and knock outs do I need for 10-2 bx
The tested and true hacksaw is my choice, easy to slip on the anti short afterwards
Where did you get that cool little red wrench for the connector nuts?
This is the 3-pack I got amzn.to/3THYKCu
The real difference is between Steel armor and aluminum-clad armor. In reality, Aluminum provides some more protection than Romex but don't count on it.
Yeah, if there was a hard impact I could see the conductors still have an opportunity for damage.
If you live in the country like I do MC keeps the critters from chewing on your wires! I’ve been using on all my new wiring.
As an electrician I find nothing is faster than a hack saw(put the coil on the ground place your foot on hold the loose end in one hand while applying tension cut until the sheath slides or moves and you'll never cut the wires
NYC code
No Romex even in residential? Chicago is all conduit.
correct@@EverydayHomeRepairs
I actually preferred your very first method for those occasional jobs where that might be necessary.
Thanks for the feedback 👍
Same here. Too frugal to by a fancy cutter.
Hm? Well Scott, since using the Klein Cutting Tool was so easy, fast, and effective, I would choose to use it always … over the other two methods.
Thanks for the feedback.
👏👏👏👏👏
Use the roto zip tool
I worked with people who would either bend the cable until it opened and then snip it, or cut it with a hacksaw. I have the Roto-Zip tool and I wouldn't do it any other way.
Roto split tool, but it’s faster to just nip the MC with your dikes at one of the ridges and twist it apart this is not only faster then all the ways he just showed but even less likely to damage the wire inside and we always put the red head, or red devil, bushing whatever you call it depending on where you live in between the plastic liner and the outer jacket or buy connectors that have the bushings in them
I use the Roto-Split for years. Best method.
@@johnw9874 I would agree if you are cutting BX or steel jacketed cables but aluminum jacket dikes are faster and I’ve had my roto split from like 1996 so a few years
@@REXXSEVEN_II this what
My blood pressure went up when you used 2 channel locks but it absolutely spiked when you brought out that goofy mini hack. Just bend it into a 90, rotate it backwards to open, then snip the shit. You can use your sharp cut edge to break the plastic wrap on the inside. No homeowner should ever even touch this shit, bush less cause a short with a hacksaw lol
then why do all the standard connectors i use have the ribs that align perfectly with the mx coils? i've used the standards many times before and it passed inspection. those standard box connectors have never come up in inspection
You have a special tool to tighten the lock nut, use the right tool to cut the MC, and the MC connector.
That looks like a FMC connector. MC connectors have an insulated throat and per NEC MC does not require an anti-short bushing "red head"
Have had and used a Roto Split for 50 years . Hacksaw ….eh way to slow while being careful not to damage conductors.
Fyi- red heads (the red plastic anti-short bushing) are not required with MC, only with AC/BX.
Good explanation. Do like the striper but no point to clutter the tooI box and spent money. I do different. I do bent the bx wire at length I want to strip and with side cutter I cut the sheathing
Thanks for the feedback
@2:35 Why don’t you use the bx cutter? Ok edit: @5:57 this is what I’ve always used when cutting this. @7:16 the tool isn’t even expensive, lol. I always try to do things properly even if it costs more…. I have however, never seen a saddle connector before. I’ve always just used a normal one.
Some jurisdictions require the use of the mc splitter, method #3. Check with your local jurisdiction.
I have never head of this because there is no way they can tell that, I think they might say they prefer that way but they could never in force that if they where going that far the would just do what Chicago has done and make it where you just can’t use MC or Romex at all everything is in conduit and yes even your houses are piped.
@@timothydixon2545 It really wouldn't surprise me if that was their intention. There are inspectors, here locally, that prefer emt over any other form of conduit.
@@timothydixon2545 Inspectors, here in Florida, have been known to take boxes apart... take fittings apart... count the number of wires in a conduit... Sometimes they take their job a little too seriously... I do understand. They are signing off on it. I had an inspector refuse to sign off on an underground inspection for grounding because I turned PVC up instead of ridgid. I told him the ridgid is going to choke the ground because it's heavy gauge copper running through PVC then changes to ridgid, to penetrate the slab, and then to a grounding plate. He said it didn't matter because it was written in the specs that way and made me change it. I still don't agree with it but I changed it.
@@user-rm6ws8xm3n you don’t have to take anything apart to know if the fitting needs it
@@user-rm6ws8xm3n and he’s right it was in the spec so he has to do what the spec says and so do you back in the day it wasn’t that way we where required to know this stuff and do it right but now they don’t think you are smart enough to do that and trust me I’ve been doing this a long time and all over
Dang I was wondering what was taking him so long to upload it 😂
🙂
1. At 3:30, where can I get one of those little red wrenches? 2. Is there a tool available that can do the separate and cutting of the bx shield in one take without a risk of nicking the insulation? If not, maybe there’s an opportunity here for someone to make a few bucks. Ha, looks like i should have watched the whole video!
When working with BX I carry a
Mini hacksaw that fits in my
Back pocket. Quick and easy.
Anyone ever hear where the
Name “BX” came from ?
I’ve asked many over the years
Only heard one answer that
Made any sense.
Anyone else ?
I have never seen the bushings at homedepot or menards. I always take a dermal and file down the sharp edges.
There is usually a little bag of them packaged with the coil of cable.
@@HoosierRallyMaster never seen then. But I usually normally only buy the stuff without the wire.
@@jasondessenberg6096That's not MC, it's Greenfield without wire. Without the bushings, you will fail inspection.
@@garyszewc3339 Bushings are not required with MC.
Just a reminder that the bushing (the red thing) is MANDATORY in MC/BX cable.
Agreed 👍
It depends on what fittings you are using I can tell you that I have yet to see a double connector where you don’t need them but I have used single connectors where the fittings are rated where you don’t need them, but you might have to look up manufacturer specifications on the fittings that you use, some will say on the box they come in but if you only buy like a couple you can almost bet they will need the red head.
No, it's not. Not required for MC, only required for armored cable.
@@pld8993 it depends on what fittings you have
@@timothydixon2545 Only if the manufacturer explicitly states that the MC use rating is dependent on using one, and I've never seen an MC connector that specifically requires a redeye. You said you have yet to see a double that doesn't require one, not sure where you've been looking, see Bridgeport 601-DC2, probably the most commonly used duplex MC connector on the market.
I like conduit but suck at bending it. LOL. MC when I have odd angles.
Tip #1. Use emt as much as possible.
Tip #2. Use as few bends as possible. The fewer the bends, the easier the pull.
#3
don't forget to take the gloves off when cutting with a hacksaw!
The FASTEST way to cut MC is to use a cutter like the Klein Tools 1104. 10x quicker than the fancy little wheel cutters, or a hack saw, etc. Once you try it, you'll never go back.
Those 1104's do look handy. Thanks for the feedback!
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Once you get used to them, they are fast, and do not leave much of a burr to deal with. Then, if you use the pre-insulated MC connectors, you are all set.
2 pro tips: turn the MC stripper around, so the tail just extends to or slightly past the long end of the tool. consistent length every time.
don't buy a greenlee MC stripper. they are much more awkward to use.
So correct with POS Greenlee MC strippers. Place I retired from had at least one in every buildings electric shop carts. I brought in a couple of real deal Roto split tools. Greenlee pump.pliers & meggers also sick big time !
Option 4. Use the screw in connector. No red hat. No risk of abrasion to the conductors.
Screw in connector?
@@danlux4954 screws into the end of the MC cable Sigma ProConnex™ 1/2" AC/MC/Flex Screw-in Connector - 4 Pack
Model Number: 18130. There are also several other types.
I always called it BX cable
Yeah, that is a common name similar to Romex being used for NM Cable.
BX was the predecessor to MC cable.
And Greenfield before that?
@@denslod2930 Greenfield is another manufacturer name, but Greenfield has always been an empty conduit, similar to emt. In the code, Greenfield is listed as flexible metal conduit.
BX was a brand name - the proper name is AC (armored cable). It relies on the metal jacket as the equipment grounding conductor.
MC (metal clad) has a separate green wire for the ground.
The insulating bushing (red head) is not required with the Type MC cable you are using. It is require withType AC cable.
That depends on the inspector.
If the inspector says red heads are required for Type NC he is making up rules, NEC does not require.
@@bobniles1928 Correct. Explicitly required for AC, no mention of it for MC.
For me, the hacksaw. Conduit is required where I live, but armored is allowed for runs up to six feet, so we occasionally use it for specific applications like exposed runs like the example here, box to furnace. For these limited runs, I just bought a roll without wires and stuff it my self.