Rather than marking and cutting out a slot in the jig, I'd make the jig from two halves. I'd fasten the small strips to one half, then using the actual workpiece as a spacer (along with a sheet of paper for a little breathing room), I'd fasten the other half of the jig to other side of the small strips. Would probably result in far less play in the dado.
I love the idea, quick way I would adjust the build is to add the cross right angle piece to the one long leg(ripping the board in half first) then place a the material to be dadoed as a spacer and then add the second side. This way there is no way to mess up the width when cutting it out on the table saw.
Totally appreciate the video!! I’ve been struggling with getting the dado size cut correctly; I’m a newbie woodworker. Everyone else is making, or selling, these movable jigs et al while I just wanted something simple and convenient. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge. Please create more content. Your videos have good content!
Great straight forward video with a nice handy way to make a useful jig! I just finished making and using it and it went great! Thanks. I need to get me one of those woodpecker marking gauges. They r high but seem so handy!
Just getting ready to make a holder for my pvc connector jugs and came across this!! Fantastic and simple!! I have a question pertaining to your video, what is the little straightedge you were using in this video? Thank you in advance!!
My thoughts exactly. I don't think Andy understood what you meant: your scrap sample stock would automatically space the jig, under construction, to the correct position for the second table-saw cut - right? Edit a few hours later: I had to try this to realize why it won't (quite) work. You'll be too fat by the blade-width, because you're cutting a gap out of the jig...you need the blade thickness to be included in the removed strip. I ended up just "sneaking up" on the needed width by trial-and-error, which isn't my preference, but it worked.
Really like this method 👍. What method would you suggest for cutting dados narrower than the smallest diameter top-bearing flush-trim router bit available (which is 9.5mm)?
@@Selandry1 Appreciate the reply. I should have said, like the video my workpiece is too wide for my small table saw (and the blade spindle is too narrow for a dado blade).
Great Idea. I must say that I cringed at the sound of the pneumatic air gun you used in the video. Air guns can generate up to 120 dB which is far higher than the 85 dB which can also cause hearing loss with extended exposure. I should know; I caused myself significant hearing loss from nightclubs loud music, concrete mixers, and woodworking power tools. Place your mike around your collar and not close to the work surfaces, please. And keep on posting!
I'm new at woodworking, so this may seem like a dumb question, but if using a flush trim router bit with a ball bearing at the end how does that cut when the bearing has to be below the jig?? How did you measure to get your 1/4" dado depth?
The bearing is above the cutting aspect of the bit and rides on the jig. There are may different flush trim bits to choose from with bearings on the top or bottom. Also different bit heights and diameter. You will learn as you go which bit is for what. And yes the 1/4 “ depth is achieved by adjusting he height of the bit. Hope this helps.
I'm also new at woodworking and am wondering if I can use this type of a setup to make a stopped dado. I need to make a groove for a floating bottom on a box where I'm using dovetails so the dado can't go all the way through. This setup looks like it would work, I would just have to tilt the router into the piece since I can't plunge it. Any thoughts on whether this might be doable or is a bad idea?
Tim Gough i am not seeing it. If the box is using docvetails.....then i dont see why the bottom isnt also dovetailed. If you are trying to slide the bottom in via the dado....and then go almost to the other end and then stop....i guess so, but you will have a gap and it just seeems like a lot of work for ? If you are going tomhave a stopped dado on both ends....how would the bottom slide in?
You need a flush trim router bit with a guid bearing on top. If you did use a flush trim bit as mentioned then the wood you used was not thick enough to capture the bearing. Keep at it!
You could use 2 factory cut edges of any sheet of plywood and then just add the strips to hold them together. Does not have to be the same board ripped, and the outside edges don't have to be straight.
This is so much simpler than anything I have seen yet.
Nice & short... straight to the point video!
I love the quick & simple how to do's. Thanks for sharing 👍
That was so simple and fast. I wish I had learned this years ago. Thanks for the great tip.
I thought the same thing and that's why I posted it. Do the same if you have a great woodworking idea that we can all benefit from.
the simplest ideas are the best…thanks for sharing…my project came out great thanks to your video…honestly i was getting sick of kreg jig pocket holes
The best and fastest router jig I have ever seen..! Man, you nailed it.. :)
This is a brilliantly simple and effective jig, took 15 mins to make and did everything I was hoping it would, thanks for sharing the innovation.
Really like this. Especially like that the jig isn’t dedicated to a specific router.
Rather than marking and cutting out a slot in the jig, I'd make the jig from two halves. I'd fasten the small strips to one half, then using the actual workpiece as a spacer (along with a sheet of paper for a little breathing room), I'd fasten the other half of the jig to other side of the small strips. Would probably result in far less play in the dado.
If the dado was too loose you could always add strips of blue tape along the inside of the guide slot until you get it tight enough
Superb! I've been using all sorts of straight edges and measuring and now I'm using THIS! Thank you!
This is amazing. I have wasted so much wood trying to get the best cut. Thank you so much for posting this!
Just ran into same situation. Usually just use a straight edge clamp but had one wander last time. Perfect quick solution. Thanks
I love the idea, quick way I would adjust the build is to add the cross right angle piece to the one long leg(ripping the board in half first) then place a the material to be dadoed as a spacer and then add the second side. This way there is no way to mess up the width when cutting it out on the table saw.
Totally appreciate the video!! I’ve been struggling with getting the dado size cut correctly; I’m a newbie woodworker. Everyone else is making, or selling, these movable jigs et al while I just wanted something simple and convenient. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge. Please create more content. Your videos have good content!
Man, fast, easy, and accurate. Love it!
Another good video - thanks for producing this channel.
Elegant and simple. Thank you, sir.
I've learned this exactly in time.
Thanks so much for sharing this , just awesome , its just so simple but works a treat ,
Amazingly easy and accurate
Extremely nice build.
Very well done. That is using your head, being economical AND practical. I well put this idea to the test soon.
best ideas are the simple ideas. I will definitely use that
nice shop man!
Great straight forward video with a nice handy way to make a useful jig! I just finished making and using it and it went great! Thanks. I need to get me one of those woodpecker marking gauges. They r high but seem so handy!
Thanks very much for this video.
Just getting ready to make a holder for my pvc connector jugs and came across this!! Fantastic and simple!! I have a question pertaining to your video, what is the little straightedge you were using in this video? Thank you in advance!!
It’s an incra marking T square.
Speedy and simple. Love it!
Sweet! Thanks for this awesome video. Bravo 👏
easiest genius jig. thanks for sharing.
This is awesome! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Grace. I enjoyed your recent video on hand cut dovetails. Keep it coming.
Nice!
Why not clamp a piece the same thickness as the workpiece to the fence, instead of marking and moving?
Because then the dado would be as wide as the workpiece PLUS the size of the router bit.
My thoughts exactly. I don't think Andy understood what you meant: your scrap sample stock would automatically space the jig, under construction, to the correct position for the second table-saw cut - right?
Edit a few hours later: I had to try this to realize why it won't (quite) work. You'll be too fat by the blade-width, because you're cutting a gap out of the jig...you need the blade thickness to be included in the removed strip. I ended up just "sneaking up" on the needed width by trial-and-error, which isn't my preference, but it worked.
@@davids1681 Correct, this idea doesn't account for the blade kerf.
Great idea, great video. Thank you!!!
Seems like exactly what I need!!
What a fantastic idea! Thank you!
Thank you!
Very useful video! Thank you for sharing!
Great and Great help
Thank you . I really like it. Gonna try to make a like dvd/bookcase thing
Nice tip!!!!! I'm still making the rings...
Very useful, very simple - Thx!
i didn't know vic reeves was into woodworking.
So brilliant
Great easy to make jig
Good job…thanks for sharing
Wait.. Can we talk about that awesome sheet-metal square?
Really like this method 👍. What method would you suggest for cutting dados narrower than the smallest diameter top-bearing flush-trim router bit available (which is 9.5mm)?
A dado on your tablesaw.
@@Selandry1 Appreciate the reply. I should have said, like the video my workpiece is too wide for my small table saw (and the blade spindle is too narrow for a dado blade).
Found the answer: th-cam.com/video/zvqUyk6f13I/w-d-xo.html
I like the video...consider investing in better audio equipment though.
Agreed!😂
Great Idea. I must say that I cringed at the sound of the pneumatic air gun you used in the video. Air guns can generate up to 120 dB which is far higher than the 85 dB which can also cause hearing loss with extended exposure. I should know; I caused myself significant hearing loss from nightclubs loud music, concrete mixers, and woodworking power tools. Place your mike around your collar and not close to the work surfaces, please. And keep on posting!
That's a pretty spiffy T square you have for not only marking but lining up workpieces. May I ask brand/type?
That’s an incra
Incra....so nice....it has holes you put pencil in and the slide t for perfect line....
Perfect
Great work
great vid
I like
Great jig.
Looks like you have to be willing to rout into the 90 degree cleat right? Or did you plunge cut somehow? Thanks
Thank you........
Thanks for the great idea. Now check out the adjustable one here : *_Router joinery basics : Dado_*
Router joiner aside
THANKS DUDE!! DUST ON.
Cheers
Buen video muchas gracias...
I'm new at woodworking, so this may seem like a dumb question, but if using a flush trim router bit with a ball bearing at the end how does that cut when the bearing has to be below the jig?? How did you measure to get your 1/4" dado depth?
The bearing is above the cutting aspect of the bit and rides on the jig. There are may different flush trim bits to choose from with bearings on the top or bottom. Also different bit heights and diameter. You will learn as you go which bit is for what. And yes the 1/4 “ depth is achieved by adjusting he height of the bit. Hope this helps.
Thanks for responding. That makes so much sense now. I didn't know bearings can be on the top AND the bottom. I shall order one and give it a try.
I'm also new at woodworking and am wondering if I can use this type of a setup to make a stopped dado. I need to make a groove for a floating bottom on a box where I'm using dovetails so the dado can't go all the way through. This setup looks like it would work, I would just have to tilt the router into the piece since I can't plunge it. Any thoughts on whether this might be doable or is a bad idea?
Tim Goug
Tim Gough i am not seeing it. If the box is using docvetails.....then i dont see why the bottom isnt also dovetailed. If you are trying to slide the bottom in via the dado....and then go almost to the other end and then stop....i guess so, but you will have a gap and it just seeems like a lot of work for ? If you are going tomhave a stopped dado on both ends....how would the bottom slide in?
That was simple and I made one. Problem is when I was using it I cut in to the jig. What's wrong? I just got a router and learning.
You need a flush trim router bit with a guid bearing on top. If you did use a flush trim bit as mentioned then the wood you used was not thick enough to capture the bearing. Keep at it!
Why doesn’t the router cut the wooden jig?
Brilliant
Cool idea. What size bit did you use??
Ingenious! Thank you!
2:10 fence moved
fuk i wish i had a brad nailer....
Your bearing is on the top of your router bit?
Palm router can be move forward and backward?
What do you call that square?
Why is the video not 90 seconds ?
Is there a way to make that jig if I don't have a table saw?
You could use 2 factory cut edges of any sheet of plywood and then just add the strips to hold them together. Does not have to be the same board ripped, and the outside edges don't have to be straight.
Good stuff, thanks.
Peace of Lord Jesus upon you and yours
where did you get the staight edge you were using
Woodcraft
It’s made by incra
Sound is too low.
90sec? I doubt that…🤨
Wwwwwhhhhhaaaaaaaattttt? Speak up!