How To Make Perfect Fitting Dados With Exact Width Dado Jig | Deep Dive
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- EXACT WIDTH DADO JIG:www.woodpeck.c...
This week on Deep Dive, Jeff shows off his Exact Width Dado Jig, and explains how to make perfect fitting dados for a variety of stock sizes. He covers how to center your router bit, set up a cut, make a cut, and answers some customer questions along the way.
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Another Great Show Jeff. Thank you. Question? Can we use this jig to cut dovetail grooves accurately? If so, I sure would like for you to make a video especially for dovetail grooves.
I'll look into it, Pat.
@@SharpToolsUSA Jeff, it's been a year, any update on this?
Very nice. Thanks Jeff.
Nice jig but why can’t you use Copier router bit and l make a lot of my own jigs which dose take time but Once it made that’s it what I will say woodpecker make some nice tools thanks for your video and stay safe 👏👏👍
I have been using this jig and am a little disappointed. I have been struggling to get 100% repeatable results. You have to guess every time on how tight to squeeze the the rails together. Sometimes I’m tight, sometimes I’m loose. Even just “making contact” with the rails is a crapshoot. My router bushing has been centered with a festool centering cone and I consistently cut dead on perfect dovetails on a Leigh jig. As of now, the only way I’ve been able to achieve repeatable results is to put 2 layers of blue tape on both sides of the board and squeeze the rails very tight. It’s much closer to repeatable, but still not 100%. I feel for the price of this jig, the user shouldn’t have to guess how tight to squeeze (or use blue tape.) I’m not sure if the pvc strips compress slightly or what, but it’s far from perfect. I will say it squares itself up very well and the dado stops work very well.
Nice. Thank you.
What a great demo your super. I have to ask you what was the router bit you used. If you remember it would help avoid buying bits I don't need . I am using a Festool 1010 and would like to use my 1400 because on 1/2 shaft if I canI just was going to order the 24-1/2 model. Thank You
Not sure what I used in the video, but I am sure what I would use today. Woodpeckers is now making solid carbide spiral router bits, and we make two that are a perfect match for the Exact Width Dado Jig. US4900U and US4900D are 3/8" diameter solid carbide spiral router bits with 1/2" shank. The "U" and "D" represent up-cut and down-cut. For solid stock, the up-cut is generally preferred. In plywood or solid stock species that tend to chip, the down-cut is the better choice. You can find them here: www.woodpeck.com/ultra-shear-solid-carbide-spiral-router-bits.html
What size bit are you using? I used a 1/4 and it doesn't go the full 1 1/2" as promised in the description
With the guide bushing provided with the jig, you have to use a 3/8" bit for the jig to work correctly.
Are they running that vacuum? Lots of dust getting kicked out. Im guessing no
On, but I had been sanding with it and had the speed turned all the way down and forgot to turn it back up.
@@WoodpeckersLLC Its all good. I just bought the longer version of this jig. Thanks for making the video
too much trouble
$400? Seriously?
Well done, Jeff. Would have liked to watch you set the depth of cut for the working dados since it is different than the length of the cutter extending below the guide bushing. Did you zero the cutter on the workpiece and use a bar of the desired dimension to adjust the depth stop?
Sorry I didn't address that, because the answer is really cool. Take a look at the original product video: th-cam.com/video/bf5H3HnkYJk/w-d-xo.html ...specifically, at the 1:22 mark you'll see the ruler that stores in the Exact Width Dado Jig. It works for setting the stops for blind dadoes, and also comes out to set the depth of cut. It compensates for the thickness of the jig and has the zero point set for the top of the material.
@@WoodpeckersLLC Thank you!
Can you cut a dado for stock that is less than 3/8", ie do you have another bushing for narrower dados?
Wow, your using a not Woodpecker or Festool centering cone...How dare you!
Your tools are amazing but your prices are crazy expensive and unaffordable for a hobbyist.
Just make on yourself. It's not that hard and there's lots off different designs to
at around 11:40, Jeff bumps a silver stop of some kind out of the way - is that for stopped dados?
That is correct. You have stops at both ends that can be positioned for stopped ends.
Where did you get the pigtail connector from?
My old OF-1000 pre-dates the Plug-It connector. In Europe they sell this pigtail that replaces the cord and allows you to adapt old Festools to the Plug-It cords. An acquaintance on a Festool forum ordered several from a German retailer and we divvied them up. I got one for my OF-1000 and my even older track saw (AF-65).
Noob question: wouldn't the gap between the bushing and the bit create an offset from your pencil line to your cut line?
That's why you cut away the white plastic with the actual bit, and then use that plastic to line up.
What Pete said. 8^)
That Festool dust system isn't worth a hoot with this setup, is it? Woodpecker's dado jig design is the only one I've seen that uses a guide bushing. Can you or any of your viewers tell me how to rout dados less than 1/8th inch but more than 3/32 using a 3/32 bit with a 1/4" shank ? Surely there are better minds than mine here. Please share your insights.
I made my own jigs years ago and it works by the base of the router riding along each fence instead of a guide bush against a splinter guard. I made one set up with a 3/16" bit and another using a 1/4". The smallest dado is 3/16" and 1/4" with the other, you can use any size bit, just remember the smallest width dado is whatever size your using. One side is adjustable like Woodpeckers. It works identical to woodpeckers except the width is set by the bit directly. The smaller of the two bits I don't cut that deep per pass, fear of snapping the bit. With a 3/32 bit I guess it could work with shallow cuts just be careful. If you decide to make your own jig use 6mm or 1/4" plywood (or 12mm, 1/4") like Baltic Birch or something comparable for the base the router rides on each side and 18mm or 3/4 for the fence on each side. Screw from the bottom through the 1/4" into the 3/4". Add plywood straps that are slotted, at each end with adjusting knobs to the fence section for adjustable widths, and your all set to go. Hope you understand what I'm trying to say. This is a long winded explanation I know. Hope this helps.
@@nowhereman112244 Thank you. It does help. I'm sure this is the way to go. I'm using double-sided tempered masonite which is an oddball thickness considerably less than 1/8". The 3/32" bit came from an industrial aviation supplier.
No dust system will work perfect because the router plate is not directly in contact with the surface
Can one cut a dado starting and ending a few inches from the ends with a plunge router base so that the dado does not show on the ends?
You certainly can. It has built-in stops on both ends so you can control exactly where you start and stop.
@@WoodpeckersLLC Thanks for the prompt response. That sets it apart from the competition. Just ordered mine!
Holy crap, I never knew there was a self centering cone
Please put some more effort into your health & fitness too . You are a great educator.we don't want to lose you like Jack from EV TV.