Hey Daze; I've done several treadmill conversions thanks to stuff I've learned from your channel. On my bandsaw, I did same as you, took an old Craftsman wood cutting unit, put a treadmill motor conversion, so I could slow it down and cut metal. Facing the same issue with the micro-groove pulleys, I mounted the motor on a plate, took pillow block bearings to put a "mid-shaft" in them, with the larger micro-groove pulley removed from the treadmill front belt roller, mounted on the shaft, then a v-belt pully also mounted to the shaft, and drove the saw with that. It's a double gear reduction. My problem now is, the motor has so much torque, the v-belt slips when the blade binds, and no matter how much tension I put on it, it still slips. So I'm now changing the v-belt pulley parts to chain drive. I have that little contraption shown in one of my videos on my little YT channel. BTW, I have converted my little Atlas 618 lathe, my Craftsman (Atlas) 12" lathe, and my bandsaw to treadmill variable speed motors. Thank you for all you're doing!
so glad I could help. I went chain drive when I first tried to convert my bandsaw and I ran into two issues. The chain didn't like the high RPM of being driven by the motor and it was extremely noisy. Rather than a chain I think you might be happier with a timing belt.
@@dazecars Hey Daze; that may be true. I'm having to machine hubs for the chain, but the chain is the secondary drive, where the motor and intermediate shaft already are geared down, so the chain sprockets will be spinning much slower. If it is an issue, then the toothed belts are the way to go. I've designed some robotics for LiDAR sensor motion that uses those for absolute servo motor positioning, where slippage was not desirable.
I’m using a 4.25hp 3100watt treadmill motor to power a lathe I’m building. I’ve been trying to come up with an elegant lever or button based change hi-lo belted change gear concept using idler pulleys but everything I’ve come up with felt way overengineered vs just getting over myself and swapping the V belts on a multi-step pulley. In my research I stumbled across the Go-Kart Comet 40 series CVTs. Could make a really interesting video if you looked into an integration with a variable speed pulley and the DC treadmill motors with an Arduino in there managing the input voltage to steady the RPM. Appreciate your videos, I’m on my second free treadmill machine build thanks to you and Jeremy Fielding.
I have not messed with variable gearing. Haven't had much need. I set my DIY mill build with the ability to change pulleys but never had to. It is something I may look into.
@@dazecars Gotcha. I'd be extremely interested in that obviously but don't make a video for 1 guy. Unrelated question - This beast of a treadmill motor has a max wattage of 3100 or so but was using an MC-2100 to power it and was hooked into a standard 15amp circuit so it had to be getting limited pretty severely by the control board. I am considering running a new 240v 50amp circuit to the shop for "future needs". Any idea how I could actually drive this treadmill motor from that circuit to it's full treadmill duty rating without exploding an MC-2100 or my wallet by purchasing the appropriate premade 130V-25A driver? I'm a software engineer by day so I'm not concerned with getting my hands dirty in the coding. It's the ECE bit I'm under-qualified in. Thanks for the response by the way, means a lot.
IMHO the MC2100 is a pore choice for all but the most basic applications it does however put out nice clean power. Here is a video on my preferred power supply th-cam.com/video/m0cLqKg1byI/w-d-xo.html and here is a video comparing the two th-cam.com/video/zej3rkAEVDg/w-d-xo.html also I have a bunch of different videos on a verity of treadmill power supplies and they can all be found in this playlist. th-cam.com/play/PLg4j6XzBdSY_83r86goaHonVUjoKsnIJM.html
@@dazecarsThanks, I have actually already seen all of those videos I believe, and the SCR was probably the route I was going to end up doing anyway. I may try and use the choke and capacitor from the MC-2100 if I can. Have you ever considered putting together a reasonably priced all-in-one treadmill motor driver kit? I feel like you could potentially make some money off that if you promoted it in your videos and sold it on Ebay or something as well. Kind of like the how Clough42 made that kit for ELS that seems to be doing decent last time I checked.
I pulled the capacitor resistor circuit from an MC2100, put it on my setup and had mixed results. It caused surging in high load situations so I removed it. The AC inductor that some MC2100s comes with is okay for the AC side but you will need an actual motor choke and an MC2100 doesn't come with one of those. As far as making and selling kits there is not a cost effective way to do it. I would need to at least double my money to make it worth my time and at $50-$100 to start double makes it to expensive. Even if I purchased components in bulk I don't think there is much meat on the bone. There was a seller on eBay putting together motor controllers made from the SCR and rectifier combo I preach against and was selling his "power supply" for $150. They quit selling them because who is going to pay $150 for something that a person can put together themselves for $50-$100. The other issue is liability. I can't trust that a "customer" wouldn't do something stupid and hurt themselves. Clough 42 is selling component boards that he likely gets for about $5 each making it very affordable for him to sell. His components are low voltage making it far les likely that someone could get hurt setting up what he is selling.
I'm enjoying your videos and just subscribed. I've scrounged up several treadmill motors already and have lots of machines that could benefit from using them, so it looks like I've found the right channel! I could be mistaken, but I don't agree with your statements that a 2" pulley and a 6" pulley gives a 3:1 effective gear ratio, but rather 6:1. If I remember my geometry right (and that was a long time ago!), ratios are based on the circumferences rather than the diameters. Circumference is π r². The 2" pulley has a 1" radius and a 3.14" circumference (1² × π = ~3.14). The 6" pulley has a 3" radius and a 28.27" circumference (3² × π = ~28.27). Divide the larger by the smaller, and it gives a 6:1 ratio. ...Which is likely to be a lot more useful for most machines anyway. (All of my treadmill motors spin up to around 8000 RPM.) Thanks for sharing. Now I'm going to look through your library for ways to keep shavings and dust away from the permanent magnets and commutators. And for a good way to add a reversing switch to the motor without blowing up the control board if I throw the switch before the motor stops completely. 👍
I appreciate the comment and am glad you are enjoying my channel. Don't hesitate to reach out if any questions come up. I need to point out that you are using the wrong circle equation and that is why your numbers are wrong. π R² is the area of circle NOT the circumference. Yes ratios are based on circumference but circumference is a factor of diameter so diameter is all you need. The equation for circumference is simply the diameter X π and since both circles are being multiplied by π you can eliminate it from both sides of the equation and base the ratio off the diameter alone every time. fully calculating the circumference of the two pulleys 2 X π = 6.28 6 X π = 18.85 18.85:6.28 is 3:1 just as the circumference alone 6:2 is 3:1 You can plug any diameter in and the ratio between diameters will always be the same as the ratio between circumferences Also you said that most treadmill motors are 8000 RPM, if that is your experience the ones you have are the lowest quality. Most of the small ones are 7000-10000 RPM but the good ones are in the 3000-4000 RPM range. Not trying to correct you just pointing out that the motors you have may not be up to the task depending on what you have planned. It is critically important to calculate the torque of these motors and that is the best indicator of the quality of the motor and how well it may or may not work in your application.
I make mistakes all the time, and I'd much rather someone point them out or correct me, than quietly let me go on making the same mistakes. You're absolutely right about my error in "correcting" you, and using the formula for area instead of πd. I'd realized that fact a couple of days ago when trying to calculate the overall ratio of a two-stage pulley reduction. My calculated numbers weren't coming anywhere near the observed number of rotations. LOL, at least I'm still enough of a scientist to know that, if the two don't match, then the problem is almost certainly with my theoretical model instead of reality not knowing how it's supposed to behave! ...the really sad thing is that it took more than an hour - and eventually remembering to plug your correct diameters ratio into my formula - before I figured it out! I had an old physics professor once, who told the class that, 'Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most." ...I laughed at the joke, along with the rest of the class. 35 years and a brain injury later, it's not nearly as funny anymore. (But at least I can still appreciate humor in life's perversity!) Thank you for the kind, and detailed, reply. I've watched a bunch more of your videos in the ladt few days, and enjoying them immensely. 👍
I appreciate you pointing out what you thought was an error. I strive to put out accurate information and had I actually been wrong I would have wanted to know about it so that I could have corrected it. So glad you like my channel
Well, I went and dug through my motors. Of the three I have left, they range from 2.5 HP and 5950 RPM, to 1.5 HP and 8000 RPM. I guess there's a fairly broad range amone motors, even within the 'cheap' end of the treadmill spectrum. I can't complain though; they ranged from free, to $20 for one that was working - and that went to the Habitat for Humanity ReStore. 😊
So the first motor is a medium quality motor and has about 2 foot pounds of torque. The second motor is a low quality motor with 1 foot pound of torque.
Thank you for another great video. I’ve been wanting to make a jack shaft for my mini lathe. It seems like that would be a good way to work around the flywheel and pulley problem. You could still use the pulleys from the tread mill but could change over to a regular V groove on the jack shaft for more readily available pulleys. You get good shafts and bearings on the better treadmills would just have to make some little pillow blocks or use the rollers and clamp them down with U bolts. Seems like it would give you more mounting and gearing possibilities especially for stationary tools. I wonder if there is limit on ratios.
I did that on my mill build, had a two belt system with several pulleys. Worked well. I was going to mention that in this video but forgot... I guess that will be a future video.
Most of the really old lathes used a two belt system. I have a couple of old bench lathes (1913 and 1919 S.A. Potter) that use a jackshaft arrangement. Single groove pulleys from the motor to the jackshaft then multi diameter flat belt pulleys on the jackshaft and lathes. It's set up to use gravity to tension both belts simultaneously which makes changing speeds quick and easy.
makes sense because anything electrically driven made back then you could only do variable speed with pulleys. Now with variable speed being an option pulley systems are less necessary. The jackshaft is an excellent way to get better gear ratios if needed.
When I converted my drill press, I eliminated the flywheel and used the method of clamping the motor in a vice and filed the shaft down to fit the pulley (5/8" diameter if I recall). Worked great. Never have an issue with the motor overheating after about 3 years of use. I checked the motor many times after cutting a dozen or more 3" diameter discs with a hole saw and it was warm to the touch but I could hold onto it ie not hot. My gear ratio is about 4.5: 2.25 ie 2:1 but I do experience the motor slowing down under heavy load, might check into a smaller motor pulley. Not sure what the minimum pulley size practical with a link belt. Right now I just compensate by dialing up the speed when it slows down. Great advice on this channel, I learned everything I needed to make the conversion from these videos and the website.
depends on the motor and application. If the motor is lower torque I would keep the fly wheel, if the gear ratio is high I might consider keeping the flywheel. If I was setting it up in a place where I wanted speed to be very consistent I may consider keeping it. For most applications it is not that critical. If you have room to run it and the ability to use the belt system it came with it or adapt it to your needs then I would run it. My lathe conversion does not have a flywheel but my DIY mill build did. It came down to ease of install and the motors I was using.
I have yet to see a treadmill motor that is TEFC rated. (Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled) There might be some, I've just never come across one. As a result, fine particles of wood or metal can infiltrate the inside of the motor and the brushes. I use dust collection but I've still had to occasionally blow some compressed air through the motor to clear out contaminates. I was trying to find a way to attach an air filter to the intake of my band saw motor. That's the biggest problem I've run into.
I would seriously doubt that you will ever find a treadmill motor that is TEFC. There is no real need and why would the manufacturer pay more money for something that they can't charge more for. My treadmill motor DIY tools are metal working and because of that the air going into them is relatively clean. I can see however how it would be a major issue in a wood shop... but even dedicated wood working tools don't often come with sealed motors so needing to blow them out from time to time is just part of wood working IMHO.
tons, for exactly which project or system. This playlist is my body of work relating to treadmill motor conversions what ever you could need is probably there. Let me know if you cant find exactly what you are looking for and I will point you in the right direction. th-cam.com/play/PLg4j6XzBdSY_83r86goaHonVUjoKsnIJM.html
@ Thanks I found what I was looking for. I’m going to install a treadmill motor on an old ShopSmith multi porpoise machine. I currently have to pry the V belt off the pulley and install it on a different size pulley on the motor and head stock. I been wanting to do this for years then I found your videos. I just need to figure out how to mount the motor. This machine is probably 70 years old and was my fathers. Thanks again.
Motor driving RPM, AC Servo Motor adding to Mill. Motor Max RPM 6000, will lose torque, at what motor rpm to us your math to calculate Ratio? Hard question when to use Flywheel, will increase torque will lose max amps?
a servo motor should have a torque curve available. If so I would look at the curve and make the calculation based on where you need the torque to be. with the multiplier it may be fine at max RPM, it just depends on the curve. I don't understand your other question.
you should include what the conversion is about! ... I watched over a minute and have little idea what you are converting it into??/ .. Some thing for an electric car?
Yes and no. Technically speaking it would be the circumference but because circumference is calculated by multiplying pi times the diameter you can simply use the diameter. To calculate the circumference: small pulley 2*pi=6.283 big pulley 6*pi=18.85. Then if you take 18.85 and divide by 6.283 you get 3 or a ratio of 3:1. Same as if you did it based on the diameter alone. Rather than doing all that unnecessary math simply calculating based on diameter does the exact same thing.
Hey Daze; I've done several treadmill conversions thanks to stuff I've learned from your channel. On my bandsaw, I did same as you, took an old Craftsman wood cutting unit, put a treadmill motor conversion, so I could slow it down and cut metal. Facing the same issue with the micro-groove pulleys, I mounted the motor on a plate, took pillow block bearings to put a "mid-shaft" in them, with the larger micro-groove pulley removed from the treadmill front belt roller, mounted on the shaft, then a v-belt pully also mounted to the shaft, and drove the saw with that. It's a double gear reduction. My problem now is, the motor has so much torque, the v-belt slips when the blade binds, and no matter how much tension I put on it, it still slips. So I'm now changing the v-belt pulley parts to chain drive. I have that little contraption shown in one of my videos on my little YT channel. BTW, I have converted my little Atlas 618 lathe, my Craftsman (Atlas) 12" lathe, and my bandsaw to treadmill variable speed motors. Thank you for all you're doing!
so glad I could help. I went chain drive when I first tried to convert my bandsaw and I ran into two issues. The chain didn't like the high RPM of being driven by the motor and it was extremely noisy. Rather than a chain I think you might be happier with a timing belt.
@@dazecars Hey Daze; that may be true. I'm having to machine hubs for the chain, but the chain is the secondary drive, where the motor and intermediate shaft already are geared down, so the chain sprockets will be spinning much slower. If it is an issue, then the toothed belts are the way to go. I've designed some robotics for LiDAR sensor motion that uses those for absolute servo motor positioning, where slippage was not desirable.
Should be less of an issue at slower RPM but I still think you will be better served with a timing belt.
Once again you have given some of the best and most understandable tips on this subject!!
Glad it was helpful!
Clamping the treadmill motor in a vise and using a file to file a V groove has worked well on my three conversions.
glad to hear. I knew people had done it but didn't have any details. always nice to have first hand input from someone that has used the technique.
As always, you’ve done a great job of explaining complex things simply enough I can understand them thank you
My pleasure!
Very well explained.
thanks
Great content! Thanks for your videos. I have learned a lot from you.
My pleasure
Very nice video. Interesting. Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
I’m using a 4.25hp 3100watt treadmill motor to power a lathe I’m building. I’ve been trying to come up with an elegant lever or button based change hi-lo belted change gear concept using idler pulleys but everything I’ve come up with felt way overengineered vs just getting over myself and swapping the V belts on a multi-step pulley.
In my research I stumbled across the Go-Kart Comet 40 series CVTs. Could make a really interesting video if you looked into an integration with a variable speed pulley and the DC treadmill motors with an Arduino in there managing the input voltage to steady the RPM. Appreciate your videos, I’m on my second free treadmill machine build thanks to you and Jeremy Fielding.
I have not messed with variable gearing. Haven't had much need. I set my DIY mill build with the ability to change pulleys but never had to. It is something I may look into.
@@dazecars Gotcha. I'd be extremely interested in that obviously but don't make a video for 1 guy. Unrelated question - This beast of a treadmill motor has a max wattage of 3100 or so but was using an MC-2100 to power it and was hooked into a standard 15amp circuit so it had to be getting limited pretty severely by the control board. I am considering running a new 240v 50amp circuit to the shop for "future needs". Any idea how I could actually drive this treadmill motor from that circuit to it's full treadmill duty rating without exploding an MC-2100 or my wallet by purchasing the appropriate premade 130V-25A driver? I'm a software engineer by day so I'm not concerned with getting my hands dirty in the coding. It's the ECE bit I'm under-qualified in. Thanks for the response by the way, means a lot.
IMHO the MC2100 is a pore choice for all but the most basic applications it does however put out nice clean power. Here is a video on my preferred power supply th-cam.com/video/m0cLqKg1byI/w-d-xo.html and here is a video comparing the two th-cam.com/video/zej3rkAEVDg/w-d-xo.html also I have a bunch of different videos on a verity of treadmill power supplies and they can all be found in this playlist. th-cam.com/play/PLg4j6XzBdSY_83r86goaHonVUjoKsnIJM.html
@@dazecarsThanks, I have actually already seen all of those videos I believe, and the SCR was probably the route I was going to end up doing anyway. I may try and use the choke and capacitor from the MC-2100 if I can.
Have you ever considered putting together a reasonably priced all-in-one treadmill motor driver kit? I feel like you could potentially make some money off that if you promoted it in your videos and sold it on Ebay or something as well. Kind of like the how Clough42 made that kit for ELS that seems to be doing decent last time I checked.
I pulled the capacitor resistor circuit from an MC2100, put it on my setup and had mixed results. It caused surging in high load situations so I removed it. The AC inductor that some MC2100s comes with is okay for the AC side but you will need an actual motor choke and an MC2100 doesn't come with one of those.
As far as making and selling kits there is not a cost effective way to do it. I would need to at least double my money to make it worth my time and at $50-$100 to start double makes it to expensive. Even if I purchased components in bulk I don't think there is much meat on the bone. There was a seller on eBay putting together motor controllers made from the SCR and rectifier combo I preach against and was selling his "power supply" for $150. They quit selling them because who is going to pay $150 for something that a person can put together themselves for $50-$100. The other issue is liability. I can't trust that a "customer" wouldn't do something stupid and hurt themselves. Clough 42 is selling component boards that he likely gets for about $5 each making it very affordable for him to sell. His components are low voltage making it far les likely that someone could get hurt setting up what he is selling.
Thank you for yet another information packed video.
My pleasure!
I have learned so much thanks so much 🎉🇲🇽👍
my pleasure
I'm enjoying your videos and just subscribed. I've scrounged up several treadmill motors already and have lots of machines that could benefit from using them, so it looks like I've found the right channel!
I could be mistaken, but I don't agree with your statements that a 2" pulley and a 6" pulley gives a 3:1 effective gear ratio, but rather 6:1.
If I remember my geometry right (and that was a long time ago!), ratios are based on the circumferences rather than the diameters.
Circumference is π r².
The 2" pulley has a 1" radius and a 3.14" circumference (1² × π = ~3.14).
The 6" pulley has a 3" radius and a 28.27" circumference (3² × π = ~28.27). Divide the larger by the smaller, and it gives a 6:1 ratio. ...Which is likely to be a lot more useful for most machines anyway.
(All of my treadmill motors spin up to around 8000 RPM.)
Thanks for sharing. Now I'm going to look through your library for ways to keep shavings and dust away from the permanent magnets and commutators. And for a good way to add a reversing switch to the motor without blowing up the control board if I throw the switch before the motor stops completely. 👍
I appreciate the comment and am glad you are enjoying my channel. Don't hesitate to reach out if any questions come up. I need to point out that you are using the wrong circle equation and that is why your numbers are wrong. π R² is the area of circle NOT the circumference. Yes ratios are based on circumference but circumference is a factor of diameter so diameter is all you need. The equation for circumference is simply the diameter X π and since both circles are being multiplied by π you can eliminate it from both sides of the equation and base the ratio off the diameter alone every time.
fully calculating the circumference of the two pulleys
2 X π = 6.28
6 X π = 18.85
18.85:6.28 is 3:1 just as the circumference alone 6:2 is 3:1 You can plug any diameter in and the ratio between diameters will always be the same as the ratio between circumferences
Also you said that most treadmill motors are 8000 RPM, if that is your experience the ones you have are the lowest quality. Most of the small ones are 7000-10000 RPM but the good ones are in the 3000-4000 RPM range. Not trying to correct you just pointing out that the motors you have may not be up to the task depending on what you have planned. It is critically important to calculate the torque of these motors and that is the best indicator of the quality of the motor and how well it may or may not work in your application.
I make mistakes all the time, and I'd much rather someone point them out or correct me, than quietly let me go on making the same mistakes.
You're absolutely right about my error in "correcting" you, and using the formula for area instead of πd.
I'd realized that fact a couple of days ago when trying to calculate the overall ratio of a two-stage pulley reduction. My calculated numbers weren't coming anywhere near the observed number of rotations. LOL, at least I'm still enough of a scientist to know that, if the two don't match, then the problem is almost certainly with my theoretical model instead of reality not knowing how it's supposed to behave! ...the really sad thing is that it took more than an hour - and eventually remembering to plug your correct diameters ratio into my formula - before I figured it out!
I had an old physics professor once, who told the class that, 'Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most." ...I laughed at the joke, along with the rest of the class. 35 years and a brain injury later, it's not nearly as funny anymore. (But at least I can still appreciate humor in life's perversity!)
Thank you for the kind, and detailed, reply. I've watched a bunch more of your videos in the ladt few days, and enjoying them immensely. 👍
I appreciate you pointing out what you thought was an error. I strive to put out accurate information and had I actually been wrong I would have wanted to know about it so that I could have corrected it. So glad you like my channel
Well, I went and dug through my motors. Of the three I have left, they range from 2.5 HP and 5950 RPM, to 1.5 HP and 8000 RPM. I guess there's a fairly broad range amone motors, even within the 'cheap' end of the treadmill spectrum.
I can't complain though; they ranged from free, to $20 for one that was working - and that went to the Habitat for Humanity ReStore. 😊
So the first motor is a medium quality motor and has about 2 foot pounds of torque. The second motor is a low quality motor with 1 foot pound of torque.
Nice tutorial.
Thanks!
Thank you for another great video. I’ve been wanting to make a jack shaft for my mini lathe. It seems like that would be a good way to work around the flywheel and pulley problem. You could still use the pulleys from the tread mill but could change over to a regular V groove on the jack shaft for more readily available pulleys. You get good shafts and bearings on the better treadmills would just have to make some little pillow blocks or use the rollers and clamp them down with U bolts. Seems like it would give you more mounting and gearing possibilities especially for stationary tools. I wonder if there is limit on ratios.
I did that on my mill build, had a two belt system with several pulleys. Worked well. I was going to mention that in this video but forgot... I guess that will be a future video.
Most of the really old lathes used a two belt system. I have a couple of old bench lathes (1913 and 1919 S.A. Potter) that use a jackshaft arrangement. Single groove pulleys from the motor to the jackshaft then multi diameter flat belt pulleys on the jackshaft and lathes. It's set up to use gravity to tension both belts simultaneously which makes changing speeds quick and easy.
makes sense because anything electrically driven made back then you could only do variable speed with pulleys. Now with variable speed being an option pulley systems are less necessary. The jackshaft is an excellent way to get better gear ratios if needed.
How necessary is it to keep the flywheel? Would it be better to get rid of it for something like a drill press?
When I converted my drill press, I eliminated the flywheel and used the method of clamping the motor in a vice and filed the shaft down to fit the pulley (5/8" diameter if I recall). Worked great. Never have an issue with the motor overheating after about 3 years of use. I checked the motor many times after cutting a dozen or more 3" diameter discs with a hole saw and it was warm to the touch but I could hold onto it ie not hot. My gear ratio is about 4.5: 2.25 ie 2:1 but I do experience the motor slowing down under heavy load, might check into a smaller motor pulley. Not sure what the minimum pulley size practical with a link belt. Right now I just compensate by dialing up the speed when it slows down.
Great advice on this channel, I learned everything I needed to make the conversion from these videos and the website.
depends on the motor and application. If the motor is lower torque I would keep the fly wheel, if the gear ratio is high I might consider keeping the flywheel. If I was setting it up in a place where I wanted speed to be very consistent I may consider keeping it. For most applications it is not that critical. If you have room to run it and the ability to use the belt system it came with it or adapt it to your needs then I would run it. My lathe conversion does not have a flywheel but my DIY mill build did. It came down to ease of install and the motors I was using.
I have yet to see a treadmill motor that is TEFC rated. (Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled) There might be some, I've just never come across one. As a result, fine particles of wood or metal can infiltrate the inside of the motor and the brushes. I use dust collection but I've still had to occasionally blow some compressed air through the motor to clear out contaminates. I was trying to find a way to attach an air filter to the intake of my band saw motor. That's the biggest problem I've run into.
I would seriously doubt that you will ever find a treadmill motor that is TEFC. There is no real need and why would the manufacturer pay more money for something that they can't charge more for. My treadmill motor DIY tools are metal working and because of that the air going into them is relatively clean. I can see however how it would be a major issue in a wood shop... but even dedicated wood working tools don't often come with sealed motors so needing to blow them out from time to time is just part of wood working IMHO.
Did I understand that you have wiring diagrams. Where can I find your wiring diagrams? I anksoucs
tons, for exactly which project or system. This playlist is my body of work relating to treadmill motor conversions what ever you could need is probably there. Let me know if you cant find exactly what you are looking for and I will point you in the right direction. th-cam.com/play/PLg4j6XzBdSY_83r86goaHonVUjoKsnIJM.html
@ Thanks I found what I was looking for. I’m going to install a treadmill motor on an old ShopSmith multi porpoise machine. I currently have to pry the V belt off the pulley and install it on a different size pulley on the motor and head stock. I been wanting to do this for years then I found your videos. I just need to figure out how to mount the motor. This machine is probably 70 years old and was my fathers. Thanks again.
glad I could help
Motor driving RPM, AC Servo Motor adding to Mill. Motor Max RPM 6000, will lose torque, at what motor rpm to us your math to calculate Ratio? Hard question when to use Flywheel, will increase torque will lose max amps?
a servo motor should have a torque curve available. If so I would look at the curve and make the calculation based on where you need the torque to be. with the multiplier it may be fine at max RPM, it just depends on the curve. I don't understand your other question.
you should include what the conversion is about! ... I watched over a minute and have little idea what you are converting it into??/ .. Some thing for an electric car?
People use them for all kinds of projects. I have tons of videos on conversions.
Sorry to be picky, wouldn't the ratios be proportional to the circumferences? You talk about the pully size, which kind of implies the diameter.😊
Yes and no. Technically speaking it would be the circumference but because circumference is calculated by multiplying pi times the diameter you can simply use the diameter. To calculate the circumference: small pulley 2*pi=6.283 big pulley 6*pi=18.85. Then if you take 18.85 and divide by 6.283 you get 3 or a ratio of 3:1. Same as if you did it based on the diameter alone. Rather than doing all that unnecessary math simply calculating based on diameter does the exact same thing.